CHITRAL

About Chiral

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CHITRAL is undoubtedly the most romantic, captivating and enchanting place in the majestic Hindukush Range. It is a mountainous area in the extreme north of Pakistan. The landscape of Chitral is extremely mysterious with its steep harsh mountains, lush green valleys, beautiful meadows and big glaciers which have made it one of the most difficult and inaccessible areas of the world. Chitral is divided into small valleys by the mighty Hindukush range. The highest peak in this range is Terichmir, which lies at a height of 25,263 feet, just 36 miles away from Chitral town. It is also called the palace of fairies. No mountain in the region is less than 4,000 feet and over 40 peaks have an altitude of 20,000 ft. Chitral is surrounded by the Wakhan, Badkhshan, Asmar and Nooristan provinces of Afghanistan in the north, west and southwest. On its southern boundary lies the upper district of Dir, while in the east is Gilgit-Baltistan and in the southeast the valley of Swat and Kohistan district.

The valley of Chitral lies at an elevation of 4,900 ft from the sea level. The total area of Chitral is 14,850 sq km and the area situated between 35 & 37 N and 71 22 and 74 E. The total population of Chitral was 318,689 according to 1998 census. The weather in Chitral is extremely harsh and cold in winter while the summer it is very pleasant. There are certain famous places and valleys in Chitral like Garam Chashma valley, Booni, Golen valley, Yarkhun valley, Madaklasht valley, Arandu, Birir, Rumbur and Bumburate which can be called certainly as paradise on earth. The latter three valleys are the Kalash valleys which are the repository of one of the unique cultures and mysterious histories of the world. This culture is certainly the residuary of the pre-historic age. To the local people it is Chetrar, while for the ancient people and others it is Qashqar or Kashqar.

The people of Chitral are called Khow with a great ethnic diversity. In the pages of history, Chitral was known as an independent princely state. After the independence, Chitral was the first state to declare accession to Pakistan. In 1970, it was declared as district of Pakistan and attached to the Malakand Division. It lies at the junction of old Chinese Empire, Indian Empire, the ex-Russian Empire and Afghan kingdom. It came under the consideration of British Empire when after feeling the sense of Russian danger, the British government of India sought new friends in mountainous range and the tribal belt. Then Major John Bidulph visited the country in 1876 and reported to the government of India about the utility of Chitral. So friendship between the British and Chitral started which resulted in the famous Chitral incident of 1895.

HISTORY:

From ancient times, Chitral was an important point on the trade routes from northern Afghanistan (ancient Bactria) and the Tarim Basin to the plains of Gandhara (in northern Pakistan), and the region near Jalalabad in eastern Afghanistan. The ruling family of Chitral traces its decent from Baba Ayub, a disciple of the saint Kamal Shah Shamsuddin Tabrizi, who settled in the village of Lon and Gokher. According to family tradition, Ayub was a son of Fareidun Hussein, tenth son of Shah Abu'l Ghazi Sultan Husain Baiqara Bahadur Khan, Padshah of Khorasan. However, Persian, Central Asian or Mughal sources are silent on such a connection. Baba Ayub is said to have arrived in Chitral from Khorasan, married the daughter of the ruler, a supposed descendant of Alexander the Great. The grandson of this marriage founded the present dynasty. Accordingly, the family actually owes their fortunes to Sangan Ali, sometime Minister to Shah Rais, ruler of Chitral during the sixteenth century. His sons seized power following his death in 1570, establishing a new ruling dynasty over the state.

The present ruling dynasty descends from the second of these two sons. The period between Sangan 'Ali's accession to power and modern times is clouded by fratricidal warfare, contests for power with the former Raisiya dynasty, the Kushwaqte family and endless disputes with neighbouring rulers. So much so that it is nearly impossible to date the reigns or lives of many of the rulers. Only during the middle of the nineteenth century, when permanent Dogra rule was established in Kashmir, European travellers, administrators and scholars began to enter the area and take an interest in its history, and gradually the history of the country, its people, languages and culture, began to emerge from the mists of time. However, this task is far from complete and it will be many years before Chitral yields up all its mysteries and secrets.

Shah Afzal II, who ruled from the beginning of the nineteenth century until its middle, fought against the Afghans in support of his allies, the rulers of Badakhshan. He also fought against the Dogras and against his Kushwaqte kinsmen, but later switched sides and concluded treaty relations with the Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir. Thereafter becoming a protectorate of Kashmir in return for an annual subsidy to pay for troops and the supervision of the Afghan border. Aman ul-Mulk, Afzal's younger son, succeeded his brother in 1857. After a brief dispute with Kashmir, in which he laid siege to the garrison at Gilgit and briefly held the Puniyal valley, he accepted a new treaty with the Maharaja in 1877. After a relatively long reign, he died peacefully in 1892. Aman's younger son, Afzal ul-Mulk, proclaimed himself ruler during the absence of his elder brother. He then proceeded to eliminate several of his brothers, potential contenders to his throne.

This initiated a war of succession which lasted three years. Afzal ul-Mulk was killed by his uncle, Sher Afzal, the stormy petrel of Chitral and a long-time thorn in his father's side. He held Chitral for under a month, then fled into Afghan territory. Nizam ul-Mulk, Afzal ul-Mulk's eldest brother and the rightful heir, then succeeded in December of the same year.

At about that time, Chitral came under the British sphere of influence following the Durand Agreement, which delineated the border between Afghanistan and the Indian Empire. Nizam ul-Mulk's possessions in Kafiristan and the Kunar Valley were recognised as Afghan territory and ceded to the Amir. Within a year, Nizam was himself murdered by yet another ambitious younger brother, Amir ul-Mulk. The approach of a strong military force composed of British and Kashmiri troops prompted Amir to flee with to his patron, the Khan of Jandul. The British had decided to support the interests of Shuja ul-Mulk, the youngest legitimate son of Aman ul-Mulk, and the only one untainted by the recent spate of murder and intrigue. After entering Chitral and installing the young Mehtar, British and Kashmiri forces endured the famous defence against a seven-week siege by Sher Afzal and the Khan of Jandul. The British then captured Sher Afzal and Amir ul-Mulk, deporting them both to Madras. Although Shuja ul-Mulk was now firmly established as ruler, the Kashmiris annexed Yasin, Kush, Ghizr and Ishkoman.

Kashmiri suzerainty over Chitral ended in 1911, Chitral became a salute state in direct relations with the British.

Mastuj, also removed from the Mehtar's jurisdiction in 1895, was restored to him within two years. Shuja reigned for forty-one years, during which Chitral enjoyed an unprecedented period of internal peace. He was probably the first ruler to journey outside Chitral, visiting various parts of India and meeting a number of fellow rulers. He supported the British during the Third Afghan War in 1919, during which four of his sons and the Chitral State Forces served in several actions guarding the border against invasion. Nasir ul-Mulk, succeeded his father in 1936. He was the first ruler of his line to receive a modern education, becoming a noted poet and scholar in his own right. He took a deep interest in military, political and diplomatic affairs, and spent much of his time on improving the administration.

Dying without a surviving male heir in 1943, his successor was his younger brother, Muzaffar ul-Mulk. Also a man with a military disposition, his reign witnessed the tumultuous events surrounding the transfer of power in 1947. His prompt action in sending in his own Body Guard to Gilgit was instrumental in securing the territory for Pakistan. The unexpected early death of Muzaffar ul-Mulk saw the succession pass to his relatively inexperienced eldest son, Saif ur-Rahman, in 1948. Due to certain tensions he was exiled from Chitral by the Government of Pakistan for six years. They appointed a board of administration composed of Chitrali and Pakistani officials to govern the state in his absence. He died tragically in a plane crash while returning to resume charge of Chitral in 1954.

Saif ul-Mulk succeeded his father at the tender age of four. He reigned under a Council of Regency for the next twelve years, during which Pakistani authority gradually increased over the state. Although installed as a constitutional ruler when he came of age in 1966, he did not enjoy his new status very long. Chitral was absorbed and fully integrated into the Republic of Pakistan by Prime Minister Bhutto in 1971. In order to reduce the popular Mehtar's influence, he, like so many other princes in neighbouring India, was "invited" to represent his country abroad. He served in various diplomatic posts and retired from the service as Consul-General in Hong Kong in 1989.

Mastuj

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From Buni the paved road degenerates into a jeep track and continues eastwards up the Mastuj Valley, revealing awesome views of Buni Zom. Parwak could serve as a base to explore the glacial valleys spilling down from the Buni massif.

The village of Mastuj (2400m) is three hours (110km) from Chitral town along a very rough 4km side road. It’s a good base to break the journey between Chitral and Gilgit, and you could easily lose time doing some lovely day walks in the fields and side valleys here, always under the snowy gaze of Tirich Mir. You must sign in with the police (at the bottom of the bazaar) if staying overnight.

Until 1880 (when the mehtar of Chitral took it) Mastuj was the ‘capital’ of the Kushwaqt state stretching eastwards into Ghizar. A British garrison confined here during the 1895 siege was rescued by the column that crossed the Shandur Pass. The old royal fort stands next to the Hindu Kush Heights Hotel.

From the south, Laspur Gol enters Yarkhun Gol. Up this canyon are the villages of Gosht (6km from the Mastuj turn-off), Harchin (14km from Gosht), Brook Laspur (2km from Gosht) and Sor Laspur (sometimes called just Laspur, 6km from Brook Laspur), and the road to Shandur Pass, two to three hours by jeep (42km) from Mastuj

British Intervention in Chitral 1895

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Tribesmen in Chitral (district in northernmost Pakistan) remained hostile to the British, who had entered the area and established an agency (1889). In 1895, a coup d'etat in Chitral cost the life of the ruling chief, and the victors attempted to drive out the British representative, which necessitated the dispatch of a 16,000-man British expedition to reduce the rebels. At the Malakand Pass, on April 3, 1895, the invading troops overwhelmed some 12,000 Chitralis, who lost more than 500 men before giving up control of the pass; on the other side about 70 were killed or wounded. A British garrison was later set up in Chitral, which was annexed to British India. Tribal rebellions occurred, but the British presence eventually brough peace in 1898.

*****

In January 1895, Nizam-ul-Mulk was murdered while out hawking at Broz, at the instigation of his younger half-brother, Amir-ul-Mulk. Amir-ul-Mulk then seized the Chitral fort and sent a deputation to Lieut. Gurdon, assistant political agent at Chitral, demanding his immediate recognition as Mehtar. Lieut. Gordon replied that the orders of the government must be awaited. Amir-ul-Mulk's sister was married to Umra Khan and there is little doubt that the murder of Nizam-ul-Mulk was inspired by Umra Khan in conjunction with the party of Sher Afzal. Amir-ul-Mulk being a tool in the hands of the Pathan Chief, who was used in a similar manner by the Amir of Afghanistan, Umra Khan remained in possession of the Narsat (or Narai) district, and all proposals of Nizam-ul-Mulk to attempt the recovery thereof by force had been discouraged. Shortly after the murder of Nizam, Umra Khan with a force of 1200 fighting men and 1500 coolies crossed the Lowari Pass and occupied Lower Chitral, giving out that he was conducting a religious war against the inhabitants (Kafirs) of the Bashgal area. He asked Amir-ul-Mulk to join him but the latter was both unwilling and unable to comply. Umra Khan accordingly laid siege to Drosh Fort. Meanwhile, the political agent at Gilgit, Surgeon Major George Robertson, had been sent to Chitral by the government to report on the situation with his escort of 400 men, 300 being Kashmir state forces. He occupied Chitral Fort. Robertson had previously demanded an explanation from Umra Khan as to the presence of his forces in Chitral and requested him to immediately withdraw. Umra Khan, however, replied that his aim had been to assist and strengthen Amir-ul-Mulk and combine with him on an attack on the Kafirs. Since Amir-ul-Mulk had refused his friendship and acted in a hostile manner, therefore he, Umra Khan, had no alternative left to him but to act as he had done. Owing to the poor and weak leadership of Amir-ul-Mulk and the treachery of Mehtarjao Kokhan Beg and other influential Chitralis, the resistance by the Chitralis collapsed and on 25th January 1895 they were driven away from their position before Drosh Fort itself until the 9th February when the whole garrison surrendered to Umra Khan. After losing the Drosh Fort, the Chitralis concentrated at Ghairat position.

According to the report of Surgeon Major George Robertson dated 1st February 1895, all was well at Chitral and the Chitralis were cheerful and helpful. He also reported that Ghairat, a strong defensive position 10 miles north of Drosh, was still held and that Umra Khan's followers had deserted him. Suddenly, however, the whole picture changed by the reappearance of Sher Afzal, who was supported by the ruling class of Adamzadas and their adherents. On the 27th of February, Sher Afzal demanded that Robertson along with his troops should withdraw to Mastuj and it became apparent that Sher Afzal and Umra Khan had joined hands to induce the British Officers and their troops to quit Chitral territory, by force if necessary. Having achieved that, the two chiefs would decide who should be the Mehtar. The Adamzadas in the beginning did not side openly with Sher Afzal, but before the end of February they changed their mind and practically joined him in a body along with their followers. Ghairat position was thus denuded of its defenders and was occupied by Sher Afzal's outposts. Mehtar Amir-ul-Mulk now made overtures to Umra Khan. Robertson therefore placed him in custody in the fort and formally recognized Shuja-ul-Mulk, a boy of 14 years old, provisional Mehtar pending orders of the Government of India.

The British garrison at Chitral Fort now amounted to 419 fighting men besides the administrative staff, transport personnel, servants and 52 Chitralis. The strength of Umra Khan's force is not known. It was variously computed at 3000 to 5000 men. On 3rd March, Sher Afzal arrived along with armed men following and took positions on the Chitral plain, mainly in the vicinity of the fort. In order to ascertain the strength of the enemy, the garrison of the fort made an ineffective sortie on the afternoon of 3rd March. They suffered heavy casualties and made a difficult retreat to the fort where they were besieged from 3rd March until 19th April, 1895. During the siege period, Chitralis gained two other successes firstly at Reshun where two British officers were captured, their following destroyed and 40,000 rounds of ammunition taken, secondly the annihilation of about 100 men of the 14th Sikhs under Captain Ross at Kuragh defile.

The British garrison at Chitral Fort held out until the approach of a small force from Gilgit under Colonel Kelly which caused Chitralis to withdraw. The Chitral relief under General Low which had approached from the direction of Malakand and the Lowari pass arrived a week later and took Sher Afzal prisoner, while Umra Khan fled to Afghanistan. Sher Afzal with Amir-ul-Mulk and their leading followers were deported to India on the 1st May and the selection of Shuja-ul-Mulk as Mehtar was conformed. A prominent British garrison was ordered to be located at Chitral and it comprised two infantry battalions, one company of Bengal Sappers and Miners and one section of Mountain Battery with two guns. This garrison was annually relieved.

British Intervention in Chitral 1895

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chitral picks

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Geology and Mineral Potential of Chitral Region

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Mineral Potential of Chitral Region

Northern Pakistan where is the RL area is located has a complex history of crustal evolution and a rich diversity of geological environments which compare favorably with geological similar mineral producing areas elsewhere in the world.

Regional Geological Setting

Geographically the Chitral region occupies the northeastern extremities of 1200 km long Hindukush range where it represents a diffuse boundary with the Karakorum range at Hindu Raj mountain chain, east of Yarkhun valley. Geotechnically the area represent the western extremities of Himalayan Orogenic belt. Geologically the region comprises thick upper Paleozoic to Mesozoic and Tertiary tectonostraitigraphic sedimentary and valcanoplutonic sequences.

Geology of the Chitral region, in a broad sense, is represented by the occurrences of thick Paleozoic to Mesozoic sedimentary series of Hindukush Karakoram (Asia) plate to the north, and a dominant Cretaceous volcano-sedimentary sequence to the south. The Paleozoic to Mesozoic rock belts were strongly compressed and tectonically folded and faulted during the Cretaceous-Teritiary orogenic activites and were subjected to the emplacement of subduction related volcano plutonic complexes.

With reference to the relevant literature and field observations, the Chitral region is subdivided into five major tectonostratigraphic domains. From north to south, these are (1) Wakhan Formtion, (2) Tirich Mir Fault Zone, (3) Chitral Central Complex, (4) Northern Suture Zone and (5) Kohistan Arc Batholith.

Wakhan Formation

The Wakhan Formation of Permian to Jurassic age extend from Wakhan (Afghanistan) toward south in the northwest of Chitral and comprising a continuous zone of dark black homogenous slate, silt stone with marker beds of light quartzite and intercalations of Calcareous schist and marble (Buchroithner and Gamerith, 1986) and thick bedded dolomite (Gaetani and Leven, 1993).

Tirich Mir Fault Zone

The Tirich Mir Fault Zone represents the most prominent tectonic lineament with in Hindukush Karakorum plate separating the Wakhan Formation in the north from the Chitral Central Complex in the south. The fault zone is observed to have been associated with basic ultrabasic rocks of tens of meters to hundreds of meters in thickness.

Chitral Central Complex

The Chitral Central Complex is characterized by regionally important NE-SW trending vertical to subvertical longitudinal faults system along contact zones of rock inhomogeneties. The most important and prominent of these faults is the Reshun Fault of Tipper (in Pascoe, 1923) and Calkins etal (1981) which passes along centre of the complex and separate the Upper Paleozoic series to the north from Mesozoic sequence, to the south in the western part of Chitral. The sedimentary sequence north of Reshun Fault comprises dark gray slate to silt stone with minor intercalations of quartzites, calcareous schist and at places volcano sedimentary green stone beds and is also characterized by presence of thick fossiliferous Devonian Carbonate of Hayden (1915) immediately along the north of Reshun fault. This part of the complex coincide with the Sarikal shale of Hayden (1915), lun shale and north-west unit of Pudsey etal (1985), lun shale of Desio (1966) and Devonian to Carboniferous rocks of Calkins etal (1981). Immediately south of Reshun Fault the complex is represented by a varied Mesozoic lithologies of massive limestone (Shoghore limestone) followed by polymictic red conglomerate, shale, slate and siltstone (Reshun Formation), dark grey slate and siltstone with intercalations of quartzites, calcareous schist, conglomerate grey wacks and green stone (Chitral slate), chloritic epidiote quartz schist (Koghozi green schist) and coarse grained marble (Gahirate Marble) in the south-western part of Chitral, and Permo-carboniferous dark grey slate to siltsotne and quartzite with intercalations of calcareous rocks (Darkat Group of Ivanac etal, 1956) in the eastern part of the region.

Northern Suture Zone

The Northern Suture Zone is the major known tectonic scare of Himalayan Orogeny in Chitral region which separates Hindukush Karakoram plate in the north from Kohistan Arc Batholith Terrains to the south. The suture zone is characterised by the occurrence of blocks of volcanic rocks, limestone, red shale, conglomerate, quartzite, and serpentinite in a shaly to slatty matrix mostly derived from the Kohistan Arc terrains and have preserved in the small back arc basin which closed 102-85 Ma (Treloar, 1989 b) and is interpreted as olistostromal in nature (Pudsey etal 1985, Pudsey 1986, Sear etal 1987, and Searl 1991).

Kohistan Arc Batholith

The Kohistan Arc Batholith represent late Jurassic to early Cretaceous tholeitic to clalcalkaline volcanics (Shalt-Drosh volcanic group) late early Cenozoic acidic lava flows and pyroclastic volcanics (Dir Shamran volcanic group) and Cretaceous to Tertiary intrusion of Kohistan Batholith.

LOWARI TOP

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Lowari Top
The 3118 meter forested pass between Dir and Chitral is normally open to vehicles from June through at least October. It’s incredible how the weather beaten road scrambles over it, laboring in wide loops up the Dir side; and then plunging into Chitral in about 50 sphincter tightening switchbacks. It is roughly a 70 km or 3 1/2 hours drive between Dir town and Drosh on the Chitral side. However, don't be mistaken about this short distance. Visitors, for example travelling from Peshawar to Chitral, might have to travel for 14-15 hours before reaching their destination.

The summit of Lowari Top is mostly covered in clouds throughout the year. But lucky travellers can experience a breath taking view on both sides on a clear sunny day. There are high winds on the summit at all times which may not be enough to blow you off but are enough to carry away your hats or other small things so hold on tight to them. Upon reaching the summit, the visitor will find a humble stone made hut which acts as a customs checkpost and an adjacent Chai Khana (Tea Stall).

In early and late summer you may see gypsy Gujar families on the road with their tents and their belongings. A hole is in the mountainside on the south side is one end of a tunnel meant to go under the summit to make the crossing possible all year round. But there are technical and financial problems and it may never be finished.

SHANDUR POLO TOURNAMENT

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Shandur Polo Tournament
The most exciting polo tournament of the entire Northern Areas is played on top of the Shandur Pass, almost 4000 meters above sea level; a place unique and exotic in itself surrounded by some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in the world. The event marks the annual rivalry between the polo teams of Gilgit and Chitral.

The Shandur Polo Tournament also has some added attractions for the visitors. These include a Golf tournament at the Shandur Golf ground, also reputedly the highest golf ground in the world; a trout fishing competition at the neighboring streams and takes abound with trout; other equestrian events and a festival of folk dances of the Northern Areas. The Shandur Polo Tournament offers much more than an ordinary festival stretching over five days and four nights.

The highlight of all festivals of course remains the final match between the Gilgit and Chitral polo teams. Polo is played here in its original state with a minimum of rules and provides a most colorful spectacle. Supporters of both sides travel long distances from the remote parts of Chitral and Gilgit areas in order to be present at the thrilling tournament. The event, as such, provides a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of the ordinary people of these regions. Their culture and indigenous customs are a delight to behold for the visitors.

Shandur offers crystal clear lakes, snow covered mountains and alpine flowers amidst vast stretches of green grass. A tourist village comprising tents and restaurant springs up during the tournament. This is usually a couple of days each year. The rest of the year, this area is a wilderness. Merchants from Chitral and Gilgit set up Souvenir and Folk craft shops. The tournament offers visitors an opportunity to mix with the locals of these areas as well.

There is also the all famous Chitrali Dance performed during this occassion. Traditionally, this dance used to be performed as a warm up before battles and also as a celebration after winning those battles. Because of this, this dance is only performed by men. The dance in itself is an elegant display of body maneouvering and twirling shoulders and arms performed by men in white Shalwar Qamees, Red Waistcoats and White Curled Hats that are referred to as Pakols in Afghanistan and Chitrali Hats in Pakistan

Birmoghlasht chitral

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Birmoghlasht
Birmoghlasht has an elevation of 2743 meters (9,900 feet) and is 15 km (9 miles) away. This mountain top towers over the Chitral town and worth visiting in this area is the fairy-tale summer palace of the Mahtar of Chitral (ex-ruler) perched at a height of 2743 meters (9,000 feet). It offers awe-inspiring views of Trichmir and panoramic vistas of the valleys below. The fort is approachable by both a narrow winding road and by foot as well. The quickest method to reach Birmoghlasht would be by foot or alternatively, one can hire a 'local' driver. These local drivers are renowned for maneuvering their vehicles through the narrowest of roads at incredibly high speeds for the road they are traveling on; quite a feat considering that the nearest thing close to the road may be a straight fall to the bottom of a valley or a fast moving, cracking, roaring river.

Garam Chashma chitral.

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Garam Chashma
Garam Chashma as an elevation of 1859 meters (6,100 feet). It is 45 km North West of Chitral and takes 3 hours to reach by jeep. Visitors have to take a spectacular drive up the Latbo/Latkho River through deep and narrow gorges to reach this place. This unspoiled enchanting valley of orchards, verdant fields and snow clad peaks is renowned for its boiling Sulphur springs which are famous for healing effect on skin diseases, gout, rheumatism and chronic headaches. For the convenience of tourists "hamams" (baths) have been constructed near the springs. Foreign tourists are requested to pay a toll tax of Rs. 5.00 per person.

sports of chitral.

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Sports of chitral.
Polo is the most popular sport of Chitral. It holds similar importance amongst the Chitral & Gilgit populations. Polo matches are great attractions and festive occasions for all tourists. Even if you do'nt have a knack for this game you'll surely love the atmosphere it creates. A regular Polo tournament (Shandur Polo Tournament) is held every year (First week of July) at Shandur Pass.Polo is a team sport played on horseback where the aim is to score goals against your opponents. Riders score by driving a ball into the opposing team's goal using a long-handled mallet. Goals are only valid if the scoring rider is mounted. When played outdoors, each Polo team fields a team of four riders and their mounts. In the indoor variant ("Arena Polo"), each team fields only 3 players. In both versions of the sport, play occurs in seven-minute periods, called chukkers. Six chukkers is considered the norm, but depending on league rules, matches can also have four or eight chukkers.

The word "polo" is Balti for "ball". Polo was probably developed first in Skardu (Baltistan), Ladakh (northern Pakistan), the Kargil area of India, and in a few places of Tibet and Nepal. The earliest evidence of polo is found in a 4000-4500 year-old Balti story named 'Hilafoo Kaisaar'. In northern Pakistan, where Polo is still played in its original form (free-style), a local variant is called Chogan.
It is indeed a wonderful tourist attraction!

Traditions of Chitral

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Traditions of chitral

The Muslim tradition of offering hospitality to the 'muzzafer', the traveller, is observed throughout Pakistan's Northern Areas, but in few places is it offered so genuinely as in Chitral. If someone should invite you to stay in his house, it will be an unforgettable experience. Most village homes in Chitral have a large family room called "Baipash". In the middle of the Baipash is a fire place with home spun rugs arranged near it upon which the family and neighbours sit. Some well-to-do people have a separate room especially for visitors called an "Angotee".

Chitral has a strong musical tradition. The "Chitrali Sitar" a graceful string instrument, is heard daily at small workingmen's teahouses in Chitral Bazaar. The 'Chenai' and 'Dol' (Oboe and Drums) frenetically accompany all polo matches.

The Kalash women wear five large braids of and the 'Cheo', a black woolen homespun dress, red-beaded necklaces by the dozen, and an exceptional head piece (shaped differently in each valley) covered in cowrie shells, beads and trinkets that flow down their back.

The Kalash are a friendly and cheerful bunch, who love music and dancing, particularly on their religious festivals like Joshi Chilimjusht (From 14th - 21st December).

Chitral valley Geography

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The Chitral Valley

The Chitral Valley located at an elevation of 1,128 metres is one of the most popular spots amongst mountaineers, anglers, hunters, hikers, naturalists and anthropologists. The 7,705 metres Tirich Mir, the highest peak of the Hindukush mountains, dominates this 322 kms long exotic valley.

Geography
The easiest access to Chitral is in the southwest along the Chitral/Kunar valley towards Jalalabad; this route is open all year and provides direct access to Kabul. However the Pakistan-Afghanistan border prevents this being used as an internal route to Peshawar and the south.

The other routes are over mountain passes. To the south, the Lowari Pass (3,200 m or 10,499 ft) leads 365 km (227 mi) to the region of Peshawar; this is now a road road. In the north, the easiest route during summer (it is closed by snow in the winter), and the only one which allows the use of pack animals, runs over the Broghol Pass (3,798 m or 12,460 ft) to Afghanistan's Wakhan Corridor. To the east, there is a 405 km (252 mi) route to Gilgit over the 3,719 m (12,201 ft) Shandur Pass. And in the west, the Dorah Pass provides an additional route to Afghanistan. The territory is home to rare falcons and the snow leopard, and is cut off by snow from the rest of the country for six months a year.

The Chitral district has Afghanistan at its north, south and west. A narrow strip of Afghan territory, Wakhan, separates it from Tajikistan. The tourist season in Chitral is from June to September. The maximum temperature in June is 35 C and the minimum is 19 C. In September, the maximum goes upto 24 C and the minimum temperature falls down to 8 C. Which makes your stay pleasant and comfortable.

LANGUAGE OF CHITRAL

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Language of chitral.

Khowar is the language of the chitral, spoken everywhere in Chitral, which is in the far Northwest corner of Pakistan; a beautiful valley in the Hindukush range of Mountains. Khowar is classified as an Indo-European language of the Dardic Group. It is spoken as the primary language by 250,000 people in Chitral. There are also pockets of speakers in Gilgit. It is clear that the current Chitralis have lived in their mountain home for 3,000 to 4,000 years.The people of Chitral are called Kho. Traditionally they are peaceful and law abiding citizens.
Khowar has 42 phonemes. Several of these are not found in any other language of the region. The letters /t/, /th/, /d/, /l/, /sh/, /ch/, /chh/, and /j/ all have two different forms, one retroflexed and the other dential-veolar non-retroflexed. Every Chitrali who learned the language on his mother's knee can readily distinguish these forms, whereas others can never learn them, regardless of how long they have lived in Chitral.
Khowar does not have a written form in common use. Before 1947, written communications in Chitral were in Farsi, which explains the large number of Farsi loan words. Today, written communications are in Urdu. Several attempts have been made to introduce a Urdu or Roman based writing script into Khowar, but these have never gained widespread acceptance.......

HISTORY OF KALASH

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History
The Kalash were ruled by the Mehtar of Chitral from the 1700s onward. They have enjoyed a cordial relationship with the major ethnic group of Chitral, the Kho who are Sunni and Ismaili Muslims. The multi-ethnic and multi-religious State of Chitral ensured that the Kalash were able to live in peace and harmony and practice their culture and religion. The Nuristani, their neighbors in the region of former Kafiristan west of the border, were invaded in the 1890s and converted to Islam by Amir Abdur-Rahman of Afghanistan and their land was renamed Nuristan.

Prior to that event, the people of Kafiristan had paid tribute to the Mehtar of Chitral and accepted his suzerainty. This came to an end with the Durand Agreement when Kafiristan fell under the Afghan sphere of Influence. Recently, the Kalash have been able to stop their demographic and cultural spiral towards extinction and have, for the past 30 years, been on the rebound. Increased international awareness, a more tolerant government, and monetary assistance has allowed them to continue their way of life. Their numbers remain stable at around 3,000. Although many convert to Islam, the high birth rate replaces them, and with medical facilities (previously there were none) they live longer.

Allegations of "immorality" connected with their practices have led to the forcible conversion to Islam of several villages in the 1950s, which has led to heightened antagonism between the Kalash and the surrounding Muslims. Since the 1970s, schools and roads were built in some valleys.

KALASH

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About Kalash

We the Kalasha community, drastically reduced in size due to the large-scale conversions between 1769 and 1900, are now mainly concentrated in the narrow valleys of Bumburate, Rumbur and Birir in the east of Chitral, numbering around 4,000, we in the past, have suffered persecution, and, because of our remoteness, have been cut off from many essential amenities. Now we are exploited by outsiders who have depleted our wildlife, destroyed our forests and now threaten our culture with uncontrolled tourism.
We the Kalasha are one of the greatest, if not the main attraction for the visitors to the North-West Frontier Province.
We the Kalasha follow our own ancient religion, customs and beliefs. We are docile and peace loving people.

KALASH VALLEYS

Bumburet Valley:

Bumburet is the largest Valley. With its sparkling streams, shady meadows, groves of mulberry, apricot and walnut trees, wide mountain vistas and yellow and green fields, it is thought by any to be the most beautiful. Most of the hotels are run by outside Moslems, so that there is little economic benefit for the Kalasha. At the top end of the 9-mile valley, near the government rest house, there is a Nuristani village. Here begins the route, through a side valley, which leads on to the Shawal Pass, the highest into Nuristan and once a trail belonging to the ancient Silk Road. Here the great cedar trees still cling to the mountain sides.

Rumbor Valley:

Rumbur, which lies to the north of Bumburet, has fewer Moslem homesteads and sees fewer tourists. It is considerably narrower than Bumburet, and without that valley’s numerous shady meadows, Rumbur is rugged and majestic; the mountain ridges higher, the river much wilder. As there are few tourists, the Kalasha are less shy and less nervous. No one if asked, objects to having their photograph taken or asks for money for posing. Only seldom does the sound of jeeps destroy the peaceful silence of the valley. Again, at the very top end of the valley, there is a Nuristani village.

Birir Valley:

At first glance, Birir seems terribly narrow and uninteresting in comparison to the other valleys, although it is actually wider than Rumbur. There are fewer shady meadows here than in Bumburet, and the valleys is not so open. Moreover, at this level (it has the lowest altitude of all three valleys, is the hottest and grows the best grapes), it does not have the majestic awe-inspiring ruggedness of Rumbur. But the narrow rocky valley, with the shallow river running down its centre, is full of ‘secret’ nooks, where the emerald turf is splashed with sparkling rivulets of water. Higher up the mountain slopes, through the branches of the trees, the rugged mountain tops of the Hindu Kush appear stretched out on the horizon, while others loom in close, dark and mysterious or bathed in glorious sunlight.

BABA SIYAR SHRINE

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The famous chitrali poet BABA SIYAR shrine.

RESHUN

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BABA SIYAR POETERY

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Yoorman Hamin"
composed by Baba Siyar, a Chitrali poet and mystic
I roam on the mountains as if I trod on hot ashes,The sword of love has stricken me; I made of my self a shield of two bones.Oh Yoorman Hamin!Oh Fairy I swear by God after seeing you there is no light,Night and day are alike dark to me, no dawn comes to me.Oh Yoorman Hamin!The curls of my bulbul are like rosebuds and maiden hair fern,Come sit by me and sing like a mynah or a bulbul.Oh Yoorman Hamin!Still I look at you; you turn away and look else where,My life is yours, why do look at my enemies?Oh Yoorman HaminYour long ringlets and your well-curled hair are like bedmushkYou bind up your locks to slay this lad.Oh Yoorman HaminI sigh day and night for the bulbul,I kiss your pearly ringlets in my dreams.Oh Yoorman HaminTranslated into English by Colonel Jhon Biddulph in 1876

SHANDUR CHITRAL

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INTRODUCTION TO SHANDUR
The world famous Shandur pass is a bout 3738 meter an above sea level and lies midway between Chitral and Gilgit. The distance from Chitral is 147 Km and Gilgit is about 211Km. These areas remains snow covered in winter and turn into the green heaven during summer season. There is a big lake in the area. The traditional polo tournament played between Chitral and Gilgit teams in the month of hot July. Foreign tourist and native came to see the festival. The first recorded polo tournament played at this ground was in 1936, since then every year in July a grand polo tournament takes place at Shandur pass.

POLO AT SHANDUR
Shandur is the highest polo ground in the world, there is game of polo is played between Chitral and Gilgit in every year of July. The game originated in the dim and distant past in the high mountains of the Hindukush and Karakurum ranges. Amongst the horse loving peoples of Chitral, Gilgit and Hunza. here it is still played in its original form, a game as tough rough and hard, on man and horse as the surrounding mountains themselves. A game without rules or empire, a game with only a few agreed convention of play. Polo in Khowar called “Istoorghar” has been the traditional game of Chitral, as our motto is “we play polo the game of king and king of the games”. The game is commonly played to the music band comprising a big drum.

BACKGROUND INFORMATION
The Shandur Polo ground is in the district Chitral, and is situated at 72’ 35 east longitude and 36’ 06’ north la titude. It is bordered on the west by Yarkoon valley of Chitral and on the northerners by the valley of Gilgit district. It is dividing point between the caracara and the handout mountains ranges. The polo ground is about 168 Km from the main town Chitral and accessible by jeep. The road is closed during winter due to heavy snow.

Reshun goal picks

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RESHUN VALLEY

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Reshun is one of most beautiful valley of chitral.Reshun valley is situated in Chitral, N.W.F.P., Pakistan, its geographical coordinates are 36° 9' 0" North, 72° 6' 0" East and its original name (with diacritics) is Reshūn. See .
Reshun photos..Reshun is one of the most impressive places in the world.Reshun is one of the most impressive places in the world. Several high peaks rise above 6,000 m in the surroundings of Reshun valley. The valley provides spectacular views of some of the most beautiful and magnificent mountains of the world which include TERICHMER. Reshun goal is famous for its redish soil and redish mountains.The power house is also in reshun goal which supplies electricity to the upper chitral.
The history of Reshun is very famous and amazing background in every fields.The famous chitrali poet BABA SIYAR also belongs to this valley and the great chitrali singer MANSOOR ALI SHABAB also belongs to this valley.As much as the valley is famous for its beauty, the people of Reshun are noted for their friendliness and hospitality.The literacy rate of the Reshun valley is believed to be more than 80%. Virtually every child of the new generation studies up to at least high school level. Many pursue higher studies from prestigious colleges and Universities of pakistan and abroad.
The water of reshun is very pure and fresh,everyone feel surprise after looking fresh water.The mastuj road passes in between reshun valley.Really its amazing,magical valley attracting valley , dont miss it i you have chance in life to visit chitral.The Reshun valley is like Shangri La, and is also know as "The Valley Where you Live Forever" I called it my DREAM WORLD......karim

CHITRAL

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INTRODUCTION TO CHITRAL
Chitral is also known as Chitrar and Qashqar. Chitral is the heart of Marco Polo land, nestling between the rugged mountains of the Hindukush- ‘Slayers of the Hindus’. The region is a hidden Paradise in the Hindukush range, This interesting country of snow-peaked mountain ranges, ageless glaciers and deep green valleys through which flow the icy cold and crystal clear hill torrents from mountain springs and blue white glaciers has a natural charm and attraction of its own.
Truly speaking Chitral needs no introduction out side of the world, past and present, natural and the supernatural. It has been the familiar abode of giants and fairies since times of immemorial. Its high hills still preserve the huge caves where in inhibited the ancient giants called KASH and GABAR. It is the home of the mysterious khow tribes who fought the armies of Alexander the Great. Here lives the ancient Kalash tribe in some of its remote valleys, practicing a culture and beliefs, and way of life that date back to beyond history, are yet a problem unsolved for the experts of Human Sciences or Sociologists.
It is here in Chitral that stands the majestic Terichmir Peak, 5th highest in the world, towering over 25,000 ft. into the sky along with other sister peaks throwing a challenge to the adventure loving men of the world. Chitral like Gilgit is famous as the cradle of Polo, which is its national game. It is here in Chitral that the worlds famous and highest Polo ground stands right on the very summit of the over 12,250 ft Shandur Pass. It varies in elevation from about 1070 m (about 3500 ft) in the extreme south in Arandu to 7,690 m (25,230 ft) at the summit of Terich Mir in the Hindukush.

GEOGRAPHY & LOCATION
(Chitral, 35°53'15"N 71°48'01"E)
Chitral located in the North West of Pakistan is a beautiful valley in the Hindukush range of Mountains, Important for defense due to its location. Lying just south of the Hindukush mountain range, Chitral commands the main passes of these mountains and is therefore of great strategic importance in the defense of southern Asia. It is the northern most district of the NWFP. It is situated at about 366 kilometers from Peshawar. It is also connected to Peshawar by air. It enjoys a unique position in the region because of its location and potential. The district is strategically located in such a way that its neighbors include Afghanistan, Central Asian States, Northern Areas of Gilgit and China. Chitral is mostly inhabited by Chitrali people; however, it also has some Pushtoons in the southern areas and more importantly the Kalash people in beautiful valleys of Birir, Bomburet and Rambur of Chitral sub-division.

HIstory of chitral

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Short History of ChitralThe Early history of Chitral is shrouded in mystery.This mountainous country which was first referred to as Kohistan or land of the mountains was said to be inhabited by a race called "Khows" speaking a separate language Khowar, or language of the Khows. Some people say that it was Khowistan - the abode of the Khows. Separate parts of the country came to be called Torkhow - Upper Khow, Mulkhow - Lower Khow, names which persist to the present day. An early Sanskrit inscription at a village called Barenis (27 miles away from Chitral) of about AD 900 records that the country was Buddhist, under King Jaipal of Kabul. It is believed that Upper Chitral was under Buddhist influence in the past and even today there are a few rocks in Torkhow area known as "Kalandar-i-Bohtni" (Mendicant of Stone). It is a figure of a stupa; the upper part of which has been cut into the figure of Buddha and may be of Chinese origin. No records of this period exist.Marco Polo, who passed through the Pamirs, referred to the country as Bolor. History relates that first a Chinese army and then an Arab (Mongols?) army invaded Chitral from the north by the Broghal pass when the upper part of the country is said to have been converted to Islam. The southern district remained non-Muslim till very late and were then converted to Islam. A Mongol tribe called Yarkhuns invaded Chitral via the Broghal pass and may have given their name to the Yarkun valley. They were opposed by Somalek, leader of the Khows. Another incursion is attributed to Changez Khan and his Tartars.Chitral nevertheless has remained an independent state for centuries with its own culture and language. In the late nineteenth century it became part of British India. It was a princely state in 1947, which acceded to Pakistan in that year. The rule of the Mehtar came to an end in 1954 and power was henceforth exercised by the political agent posted at Chitral. The state was merged into Pakistan in 1969. The recorded history of Chitral is divided into six epochs as follows:Iranian ruleThe Achemeanian Empire of Persia was extended to these regions during 400 BC. Its more than two thousand years since this empire receded but its supremacy was so strongly established that many Persian cultural traits are still in practice in Northern Areas as well as few parts of Chitral. In some valleys surrounding Chitral such as Wakhan, Shaghnan, and upper parts of Chitral people speak Persian language. Even Khowar, which is the native language of the local people (Khow), contains much borrowing from Persian.Zoroastrianism, an Old Persian religion, has also left behind some of its traces in this area. Traditions also tell about leaving of dead bodies unburied in caves in the wilderness or in the hollow of trees. Such practices were specific in this religion. A festival on 21st March (Nouroz) the first day in Persian calendar still prevails in Chitral. It is celebrated in few valleys every year. (Israr Chitral A historical sketchKushan ruleThe Kushan dynasty established its rule in this area in 200 AD. In the second century Kanishka the most powerful emperor of Kushan dynasty had extended his rule all over Northern India, probably as far as south Vindyas and all over the remote region up to Khotan beyond the Pamir pass. Chinese ruleThe Chinese extended their influence in the 4th century AD and remained in power until the 8th century. The rock inscription of Pakhtoridini near Maroi refers to Chinese rule. Another inscription in Barenis refers to the Kushans. According to Sir Aurel Stien, the inscription says that Jivarman ordered to make the pertinent drawing of a stupa. Such rock carvings have created confusion for writers like Buddulph and many others to believe that Chitral formed part of the last Hindu Shahi ruler of Kabul. It's also believed that the northern parts had embraced Islam by the end of 9th century when Arabs defeated Bahman, chief of the country. By the time of withdrawal of Arabs many people had accepted Islam. (Souvenir, 2nd Hindukush Cultural Conference, p.19-21)Kalash rule In the 11th century AD southern Chitral was invaded by the Kalash from Afghanistan, who occupied the country as far to the North as Barenis village, while the upper parts were under another chief Sumalik. some Kalash Chiefs Rojawai, such as Nagar Shah and Bala sing ruled Southern Chitral from 11th to 13th centuries A.D.Rais ruleIn the beginning of 11th century Shah Nadir Rais occupied southern Chitral and defeated the Kalash. Shah Nadir Rais extended his dominion from Gilgit to the present southern boundaries of Chitral. Rais family ruled over Chitral for about three hundred years when Katura family succeeded them.During the Rais rule in Chitral its boundaries extended from Narsut in the extreme south of the state to Gilgit in the east. The rulers had an effective council of chiefs of the local tribes to run the affairs of the country. The ruler of this family also worked for the dissemination of the teachings of Islam in the state.There were no regular state forces to defend the state frontiers so the local headmen and chiefs called all the persons of their tribes to fight for the state under the collective defense system. The Mehtar (ruler) had friendly relations with the rulers of surrounding countries. (Baig, Hindu Kush study series vol. two)Katur ruleThe Katur succeeded the Rais dynasty in 1595. Muhtaram Shah I was the founder of Kature rule in Chitral, whose descendants ruled over Chitral until 1969 when the State was merged as a district of NWFP.During the rule of Amirul Mulk in 1895, Umra Khan the chief of Jandool crossed the Lawari pass and invaded lower Chitral. As a result, there was fierce fighting in which the Mehtar of Chitral and British officers were besieged in Chitral fort for 42 days. Troops from Gilgit and Nowshera came to the rescue of the besieged fort and the British rule was extended over entire Chitral in April 1895. Shuja ul Mulk emerged as the ruler after the war who ruled for 42 years until 1936.During the Pakistan movement there was a campaign in Chitral in favor of independence. The people backed all India Muslim League and Mehtar Muzafarul Mulk openly declared his backing to the Pakistan movement. In May 1947 H.H. Muzafarul Mulk informed the Viceroy about his intention to join the new state of Pakistan. The accession instrument was signed on November 7, 1947.