All About Textile

REQUIREMENTS FOR FABRIC CUTTING (Industrial Report of garments Chapter five p: 2 )

2011-01-04T01:16:00.000-08:00

REQUIREMENTS FOR FABRIC CUTTING

The following points must be fulfilled in fabric cutting:

Precision of fabric cutting: Fabric cutting should be done accurately as per exact dimension of the pattern pieces in the marker. Accurate cutting depends on methods of cutting and marker planning. If manual cutting method is used, then cutting accuracy depends on sharpness of knife, skill of operator, and attentiveness of operator. Computer controlled cutting and die cutting have their self cutting accuracy.
Consistent cutting: Whatever be the cutting method used for fabric lay cutting, it should be ensured that the shape of the cut components from top to bottom lay are of exact size and shape, otherwise the garments produced will be defective.
Infused edge: During fabric cutting, the friction between the fabric and the blade produces temperature in the blade; the temperature may be up to 300⁰C. If the fabric contains synthetic fibres e.g. nylon, polyester, acrylic or their blends, then fused edge may result in the fabric. As because most of those fibres melt at around 250⁰C. Therefore, sticking of cut edge of fabric will increase the fabric wastage. Moreover, the fused edge after cooling will form hard bid, which will be a problem of irritation during use of garments. To avoid the problem of fused edge formation, the following steps may be taken:

Reduce the height of the lay;
Reduce the cutting speed;
Use anti-fusion paper in the lay at regular interval;
Lubricate the knife during cutting.

Supporting of the lay: Surface of the cutting table depends on methods of fabric cutting. The table surface should be capable to support the lay as well as to ensure that all the plies are cut at a time during fabric cutting In jeans care Ltd. the sequence of the operation in Cutting Section is as follows -

FLOW SEQUENCE OF CUTTING

Fabric inspection

Fabric send to store

Fabric received from store

Marker making

Fabric spreading

Setting marker on the fabric lay

Fabric cutting

Numbering

Prepared the bundling card

Bundling

Quality inspection & front part- back part are fold together

Store

Fabric inspection

1. GSM Check

2. Dia Check

3. Fault Check

4. Point Calculation

5. Four point system calculation

6. Prepared fabric inspection report

7. Prepared weight sheet

8. Send to store (With Weight Sheet)

Fabric received from store

Marker making

Marker paper not used

Fabric spreading

Before fabric laying a thin paper as like as marker that is marker size and thin paper size is same, then thin paper attach with spreading table by gum tape then spread the fabric according to marker size.

Setting marker on the fabric lay

Spread down the marker paper over the fabric lay with gum tape.

Fabric cutting

Fabric lay is cut ting by straight knife cutting machine then separated cutting part.

Numbering

In this stage sticker is attached with all part of cutting part for shade matching. The sticker number maintains cutting number, size number, serial number.

Prepared the bundling card

Prepared bundling card according to fabric lay report this card maintain

1. Program No

2. Cutting No

3. Size No

4. Pies

5. Roll No

Bundling

In this stage all number parts are bundled according to serial number.

Quality inspection &front part-back part are fold together

Here all part are checked according to following fault

17. Oil spot

18. Dirty spot

19. crease mark

20. needle mark

21. foreign yarn

22. slub

23. contamination

24. hole

Then same number of sticker are matched fold & bundled

After Cutting store

All bundles are put in the input rack then send to sewing section

LIMITATIONS OF CUTTING SECTION

1. Input problem.

2. Scissor man cuts the tubular fabric to spread randomly and send to cutting floor and then find out the desired fabric to lay on the table.

3. There is may be no group for any table

4. Quality inspection & front part & back part are fold together. The faulty body parts are rejected but the rest ok body is not match by the same batch.

5. Cutting quality man may not be trained

6. Check, Varigated rib fabric lay quantity may be excess. As a result reject percentage may be increased.

7. Fabric spreading

8. There is may be no identification number to the rest of the cutting piece of the lay

9. There is no individual marker man for any unit.

10. Three cutting man cuts the fabric according to the marker.

11. Four man working with numbering m/c to sort out the cut fabric.

12. Two man preparing the bundle cards by writing on a piece of fabric

13. In this stage four men bundled the parts according to serial number.

Cutting Section of a garments Industry (Industrial Report of garments Chapter five p: 1 )

2011-01-04T00:59:00.000-08:00

Chapter- 5

Cutting Section

Introduction:

Cutting section is the most important and risky section in garment industry. For a little mistake full order may be cancelled. With the false measurement a big portion of garment may employed. With very care this section is handled.

In jeans care Ltd. there consists 9 cutting table. From the CAD section marker comes out. For stripe & verigated rib fabric there is no marker use because if use the marker for stripe fabric, frequently don’t match the stripe of one side to the other. This is a buyer requirement to match the stripe. Manually the stripe fabric is spreader out on the cutting table. Only marker is used for the solid dyed fabric. Normally big marker length is 5.5 yards & thickness of lay is 4 inch.

Straight Knife Cutting Machine:

In jeans care Ltd. all the fabric is cut down with the Straight Knife Cutting Machine by the help of skilled operator. Here use a blade which is very sharp and change this on the basis of fabric quantity & composition, normally in every after 4 days. Here, in the below give a short description on this machine:

Fig: Straight Knife Cutting Machine

(Km Cloth Cutting Machine)

Machine Parts :

§ Base plate

§ Terminal Block

§ Plug

§ Crosshead Assay

§ Clamp Washer

§ Knife Clamp Stud

§ Presser Foot

§ Blade

§ Sharpener Pulley

§ S/Pulley – Right

§ Pulley Spring

§ On/Off Switch

§ Lift Handle

Fig: Straight Knife Cutting Machine

Machine Name : K.M. Company Cloth Cutting Machine

Model : KM KS-AUV

Producer : Made By K.M. Cutting Machine Co, JAPAN

Price : US $189.00

Type : Heavy Duty Industrial Cloth Cutting Machine Self Sharpening.

Dimension : 8" W x 11" L x 24" H (weight 33.5Lb)

Current : A. C (3.3/2.6 amps)

Speed : 3000/ 3600

Fig: Main Motor Portion

Fig: Blade Portion

Short Note:

Machine power up, Motor run smooth and powerful. Blade moved as it should, The sharpening mechanism came down. Machine is very well made, looks like a top of the line product. Is has a very good appearance and seems to be working fine.

Advantages:

ü As it is comparatively cheaper, easy moveable and maximum lay height could be cut, used extensively in garment industries.

ü Could cut fabric at more curved line than the round knife.

ü Cutting could be done for up to 10 inch depth of the lay.

ü Quick fabric cutting.

ü Components could be cut out directly from the fabric lay.

ü Grinding could be done during cutting.

ü Could be cut at any angle.

Disadvantages:

ü Knife deflection may result due to heavy weight of the motor.

ü Higher the depth of the lay, higher will be the deflection.

ü Possibility of accident is higher.

separate images from Microsoft Word documents or MS DOC

2011-01-04T00:19:00.000-08:00

Using the following steps for Word 2000, Word 2002, Word 2003,Word 2007

Open the document in Word.
Click File from the Standard Toolbar.
Click Save As.
Specify your Save in location.
Select Web Page (*.htm; *.html) from the Save as type drop-down menu,
Click Save.
When you save the document as a Web page, Word creates an .htm file and folder containing the embedded images.

CAD section of a garments (Industrial Report of garments Chapter four )

2011-01-04T00:02:00.000-08:00

Chapter- 4

CAD Section

Introduction:

In jeans care Ltd. Auto CAD (Computer Aided Design) is an important section. Here all the consumption is done. With the measurement of the different parts of a garment by the help of CAD system software pattern & marker can cut or make. Here with the combination of the parts of a garment efficient marker can make for cutting purpose. By creating grading from one size different size can create by the software.

CAD System Software: Two systems are available

Lectra System, made in France
Garber System, made in USA

Machines in CAD section:

Purpose Machine Name Quantity

Marker make Garber plotter (Width=72 inch) 1

Alotex (Width=82 inch) 1

Process Sequence: CAD section

Pattern for a specific garment

or manually sketch the different parts in the computer

↓

Keep those separately on digitizer board (for pattern)

↓

With the help of sensor system input the actual measurement of those parts

↓

Resize and give a shape for marker

↓

Grading
↓

Efficient format for making the marker

↓

Make marker with the help of Lectra or Garber system

Efficiency Measure: Total placed area * 100%

Formula: Total marker efficiency = _____________________

Length * Diameter

Efficiency (usually get)

For Tank top - 75%

For trouser - 78%

For t shirt - 85%

For polo shirt - 85%

N.B.: If a garment consist smaller parts then there efficiency is higher than the larger parts of a garment.

Industrial Report of garments (jeans care Ltd) Chapter three

2011-01-03T11:45:00.000-08:00

Chapter- 3

Planning & IE (Industrial Engineering)

Introduction:

Planning is Design for solving the problem. Design creative thinking and real problem solving.

DESIGN stands for-

D- Determination (strength of mind)

E- Ethics (Moral principles)

S- Sensitivity (Understanding)

I- Innovation (Improvement)

G- General (All purpose)

N- Negotiation (Finding the middle group)

Planning officer must know the following things:

Ø Order number

Ø Style name

Ø Order quantity

Ø Shipment date

Ø How many days available for production

Ø What is the style breakdown

Ø If we allocate the specific line for the style, line itself has the capacity to do the style or not

Ø How much we have to produce per day to achieve the order quantity according to shipment date

Ø If the style has print what is the print status

Ø For specific style how much printing unit can produce per day

For achieve the plan target planning officer must ensure the following things:

§ Input(Cutting parts)

§ Accessories

§ Machineries

§ Manpower

§ Power supply

§ Floor space to set up the machine

§ Required working hour

NEW LOOK Country Code: Use for Planning

Country Code

Arabistan ARA

Azcrbaycan AZB

Kazakistan KAZ

Garcistan MSB

Lubnan MSL

Diger FKT DTH

Arnavutluk RND

Slovakya SLO

Hirvatistan HIR

Bulgaristan YLN

Italya-Family FAM

Milano-Magaza MIL

Moldova MOL

Moscow Wholesale MSKT

Moscow Retail MSKM

Main UK Raine Retail UKRM

Problems: Have To Change The Planning After That

§ New order allocation

§ Printing supply delay

§ Shipment adjustment

§ Fabric supply delay

§ Trims & accessories delay

§ Dyeing delay

§ Extra shipment

§ Order cancelled

Reasons For Production Overtime:

The planning section decided that whether the over time is needed or not for specific order according to shipment date. Sometimes there have some reasons for overtime. The reasons are follows:

§ Fabric shedding from dyeing

§ Print and embroidery delay supply.

§ Emergency shipment

§ Quantity adjustment

§ Fabric delay supply

§ Trims & Accessories insufficient/ delay

§ Order quantity rebalancing & pending work

§ Machine shortage and problems

§ Interruption power supply by maintenance

Industrial Report of garments (jeans care Ltd) Chapter two

2011-01-03T10:18:00.000-08:00

Chapter- 2

Sample Section

Introduction:

Sample section is the important section in jeans care Ltd. Here all types of sample are developed. Sometime developing section help to develop a new type of sample. Here the operator and the managerial level are very much efficient than the other section. Here the operator is selected according to their work efficiency and also the experience. Skilled operator is allowed to work in this section. Because sample must has to be unique and the best quality, out looking also be very good. Without a skilled setup this is impossible. It is seen that an operator can make a whole garment. In the floor level one operator always to his/her job with one component all the time, for this to make that portion that operator need less time. But in sample section time required to make a garment, one operator need much more time than the floor level operator. This section must involve with the merchandising section. According to the buyer requirement on the basis of art work and the measurement list given by the buyer an operator can make a whole garment. If an operator can not understand the technical term in the technical sheet, he/ she must consult with the manager/asst. Manager/ co-coordinator. Here the sewing machine sequence is not maintained. As per requirement operator can change the machine if that is available to use. There is a table for checking the ready sample before it sends to the merchandising section.

Process Sequence

The pieces of the garment supply from the pattern section

↓

Pieces are sewn by the skilled operator.
↓

Attach the button as required
↓

Iron the garment
↓

Send to the merchandiser

The Topic I was familiar with:

Types of machine.
Types of operation
Types of fabric
Measurement
Checking Procedure
Types of print

Types of machine:

Rib Cutter For Neck
Plain Machine
Over Lock Machine
Flat Bed Machine
Cylinder Bed Machine
Button Hole Machine
Button Attaching Machine
Steam Iron

Types of Fabric:

Single jersey
Single jersey lycra
1´1 Rib
2´2 Rib
Verigated Rib
Interlock
Pique Polo

Industrial Report of garments (jeans care Ltd) Chapter One

2011-01-03T01:40:00.000-08:00

Garment Section

Chapter One

Training Section

Introduction:

In jeans care Ltd. there consists a Training Center which is exceptional from the other factory. It is seen that majority percent of factories has no Training center. This center trains the fresh worker. This is help for bulk production and increase the efficiency and ultimately production is increased. There consists all type of sewing machine for practice. For supervision a manager and two supervisor trains the worker. They guide all day long. It is added here that some time a worker who trains for someday has to give for making local garments and with the concentration of the factory those sell in local market. By this practice a worker can get the proper idea about the floor level production.

This training section also helps the worker to-

operation of a sewing machine

Familiar with the different parts of a sewing machine

Give a brief idea about the adjustable portion of a sewing machine

Make them as the identification where they are suitable for work in different section

Know about the process sequence of different garment

In a word they are familiar with the industrial environment.

Sewing Machine Operation Integration:

Days(^th) Serial Task

1 1 Training integration program

1-2 2 Manual and focus training

3-5 3 Introduction to sewing equipment

4-5 4 Exercise & Training for setting up the sewing material

6-8 5 Exercise for machine speed control guidance on paper

9-13 6 Exercise for quality control % machines adjustment on fabric

14 7 Introduction to the Scientific element

8 Introduction to quality systems & methods of measurement

15 9 Advanced setup exercise

16-20 10 Advanced operational & technical training

19-25 11 Line set up & line Balancing Training

Supervisor: According to Day

Day(^th) Supervisor

1,2,5-7,9-11 Training Supervisor

3,4 Mechanic

8 Quality Training Supervisor

Machine Identification: In Training Section (Lay Out)

Machine No. Types Of Machine Brand

1-13 Plain Machine Juki, Brother

14 Flat Lock Pegasus

15-20 Plain Machine Brother

21-22 Automatic Plain Machine Brother

Automatically Done-

§ Thread Cut

§ Back Stitch

§ Needle Movement(up-down)

§ Top stitch

23-29 Plain Machine Juki, Brother

30-34 Overlock Pegasus

35 Cylinder Bed Pegasus

36-37 Overlock Pegasus

38-39 Cylinder Bed Pegasus

40-43 Overlock Pegasus

44 Flat lock Pegasus

45 Overlock Pegasus

46-47 Plain Machine Juki

48-53 Overlock Pegasus

54-56 Plain Machine Brother

Types Of Sewing Machine:

1. Plain Machine (S/N)

2. Double Needle Machine (D/N)

3. Overlock Machine (O/L)

4. Flat lock Machine (F/L)

5. Kanshai Machine

6. Button Hole Machine

7. Button join Machine

8. Bar-tack Machine (B/T), etc.

9. Suction Machine

Thread Use In Different Machine:

Machine Type Thread Type

Plain/Auto Plain M/C 1 needle Thread

1 Bobbin Thread

Double Needle M/c Two Needle

Two bobbins

Over Lock 2 Needle Thread

2 Looper Thread

Cylinder Bed 3 Needle Thread

1 Spreader Thread

1 looper Thread

Flat bed 3 Needle Thread

1 Spreader Thread

1 looper Thread

Different Between Cylinder Bed & Flat Bed: Cylinder Bed Flat Bed

1. Hem can make Hem can not make

2. Piping mechanism is not available Piping mechanism is available

3. Top stitch can done Top stitch can not done.

Training Exercise Sheet:

In training section sketch of different parts of a garment on a paper for practicing sewing. Initially this is given to the worker who is newly joined in training section.

This exercise sheet helps the worker-

§ To straight up the sewing line

§ To adjust the stitch Per Inch(SPI)

§ To change the direction of needle as per movement.

§ To balance the speed of the machine

§ To learn the Bartack mechanism

Different Sewing Machine Parts:

Single Needle Sewing Machine: Plain Machine

Fig: Plain machine

Machine Parts:

Thread Stand
Thread Clamp
Thread Retainer
Thread up lever guide
Thread guide
Tension disk
Pressure screw
Pressure bar
Pressure feet
Hand lifter
Needle clamp
Needle

Needle plate

Feed dog

SPI adjustor

Reverse lever

Bobbin winder

Pulley

Oil sight window

Pulley belt cover

Leg lifter

Foot

Safety guide

Motor

OverLock Sewing Machine:

Fig: Over Lock Machine

Machine Parts:

o Thread Stand

o Thread Clamp

o Thread Retainer

o Thread guide

o Tension disk

o Pressure screw

o Pressure bar

o Pressure feet

o Pressure Spring

o Eye protection glass

o Upper & Lower looper

o Needle clamp

o Needle

o Needle plate

o Feed dog

o SPI adjustor

o Pulley

o Oil sight window

o Pulley belt cover

o Leg lifter

o Safety guide

o Motor

Flat Bed Sweing Machine:

Fig: Flat Bed Machine

Machine Parts:

o Thread Stand

o Thread Clamp

o Thread Retainer

o Thread guide

o Tension disk

o Pressure screw

o Pressure bar

o Pressure feet

o Eye protection glass

o Looper

o Needle clamp

o Needle

o Needle plate

o Feed dog

o SPI adjustor

o Spreader Mechanism

o Oil sight window

o Pulley belt cover

o Piping Mechanism(Folder)

o Motor

Name of different dye and there application

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Name of dyestuff	Fibre
Direct	Cotton, Viscose
Acid	Wool, Silk, Nylon
Sulpher	Cotton, Viscose
Reactive	Cotton, Wool, Silk, Viscose, Nylon
Vat	Cotton, Viscose, Silk, Wool
Basic	Jute, Acrylic
Disperse	Nylon, polyester, Acrylic, Triacetate, Diacetate
Mordent	Cotton, Wool, Silk
Pigment	Cotton, Manmade Fibre
Mineral	Cotton, Wool, Silk

Dyes and Pigment

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Dyes/Dyestuff:
     Dyes are colored ,unsaturated organic chemical compounds capable of giving color to substrate.

why dye molecule are colored?
   Dye molecule are colored because they are selectively able to absorbed and reflect incident light.

   Dyes contain chromophore and auxochrome group.

     Chromophore gives the dye molecule it's particular color. A molecule processing no chromophore would be colorless.
     Auxochromes are organic radicals intensify the hue of the dye molecule's color ,makes the dye molecule more water soluble and improve the color fastness property of the dyed or printed fiber.

Pigment:
      Pigment are insoluble coloring matter mostly organic and inorganic(mineral origin) have been used for the coloration of metal wood,stone and textile material. Pigment molecule contain chromophore group but no auxochrome group,so they have no directly affinity to textile fibers. They are fixed on textile material with the help of resin binder. This binder which is usually mixed with the pigment ,acts like an adhesive. The two most common uses for pigments are printing operation and solution dyeing of polymer melt prior to extrusion of some synthetic fiber.

Difference between dyes and pigment:

Dye	Pigment
Water solubility 70%	100% water insoluble
Auxochrome persent	Auxochrome not present
No binding agent required	Bindine agent required

The basic units use in textile

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Property             Symbol                            Unit                       Abbreviation

Length                    l                                     meter m
Height ,Depth h    meter m
Diameter                d                                    meter                     m
Radius                r                                    meter                     m
Distance                 s                                    meter                     m
Area                       A                                   square meter         m²
Volume    V    cubic meter m³