Rabbit Zone

Rabbit Grooming

2012-08-04T03:18:00.003-07:00

Rabbits need to have their nails clipped short so they do not get caught on the wire cage or scratch their owners arms. Rabbits have 4 different types of fur, normal, rex, satin and wool. Normal fur has a dense undercoat with coarse guard hairs extending past the undercoat. Rex fur is denser than normal fur and the guard hairs are about the same length as the undercoat. Rex fur stands up perpendicular to the skin, giving it a unique feel. Satin fur is fine and has a hair shaft that reflects light, giving it a spectacular sheen. Wool is found on Angora rabbits. There are actually four different types of wool found on different types of Angoras. A lot of rabbit owners with Angora coats choose to keep their coats cut short for easier care. Angora fur should not be clipped right up to the skin as the coat provides natural protection against heat, cold, and anything that may injure the skin. Be sure to leave at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length to the coat. Rabbits, like cats will groom themselves, however in doing so they are prone to hair balls. Brushing your rabbit at least once a week will reduce the chances of hairballs. Angora rabbits with full coats will have to be brushed more frequently. Brushing should be done more frequently during shedding season. Rabbits shed about every three months. Be sure to only use a brush or comb that will not hurt the rabbits delicate skin. Do not trim the hair on the rabbits hocks and back feet or it may cause hock sores. Rabbits generally do not need to be bathed. If your rabbit is dirty in only one area only wash that area as bathing a rabbit can be very stressful for the bunny. Check ears regularly for waxy buildup or debris. Rabbit ear cleaner solution can be purchased from your vet. Dark build up can be a sign of ear mites. Lop eared rabbits are more prone to ear problems. Like dogs and cats, rabbits can get fleas. If your rabbit gets fleas contact your vet for the best way to eliminate the itchy bugs from their fur.

Rabbits As Pets

2012-08-04T03:15:00.003-07:00

Domestic rabbits can be kept as pets in a back yard hutch or indoors in a cage or house trained to have free roam. Rabbits kept indoors are often referred to as house rabbits. House rabbits typically have an indoor pen or cage and a rabbit-safe place to run and exercise, such as an exercise pen, living room or family room. Rabbits can be trained to use a litter box and some can learn to come when called. Domestic rabbits that do not live indoors can also serve as companions for their owners, typically living in a protected hutch outdoors. Some pet rabbits live in outside hutches during the day for the benefit of fresh air and natural daylight and are brought inside at night.

Whether indoor or outdoor, pet rabbits' pens are often equipped with enrichment activities such as shelves, tunnels, balls, and other toys. Pet rabbits are often provided additional space in which to get exercise, simulating the open space a rabbit would traverse in the wild. Exercise pens or lawn pens are often used to provide a safe place for rabbits to run.

A pet rabbit's diet typically consists of unlimited timothy-grass or other hay, a small amount of pellets, and a fair quantity of fresh vegetables and need unrestricted access to fresh clean water. Rabbits are social animals. Rabbits as pets can find their companionship with a variety of creatures, including humans, other rabbits, birds, chinchillas, guinea pigs, and sometimes even cats and dogs (however they require supervision when with dogs and cats, as they might be preyed upon or attacked by these animals). Rabbits can make good pets for younger children when proper parental supervision is provided. As prey animals, rabbits are alert, timid creatures that startle fairly easily. They have fragile bones, especially in their backs, that require support on the belly and bottom when picked up. Older children and teenagers usually have the maturity required to care for a rabbit.

Rabbit's Diet And Eating Habits

2012-08-04T03:13:00.001-07:00

Diet and eating habits

Rabbits are herbivores that feed by grazing on grass, forbs, and leafy weeds. In consequence, their diet contains large amounts of cellulose, which is hard to digest. Rabbits solve this problem by passing two distinct types of feces: hard droppings and soft black viscous pellets, the latter of which are immediately eaten. Rabbits reingest their own droppings (rather than chewing the cud as do cows and many other herbivores) to digest their food further and extract sufficient nutrients

Rabbits graze heavily and rapidly for roughly the first half hour of a grazing period (usually in the late afternoon), followed by about half an hour of more selective feeding. In this time, the rabbit will also excrete many hard fecal pellets, being waste pellets that will not be reingested. If the environment is relatively non-threatening, the rabbit will remain outdoors for many hours, grazing at intervals. While out of the burrow, the rabbit will occasionally reingest its soft, partially digested pellets; this is rarely observed, since the pellets are reingested as they are produced. Reingestion is most common within the burrow between 8 o'clock in the morning and 5 o'clock in the evening, being carried out intermittently within that period.

Hard pellets are made up of hay-like fragments of plant cuticle and stalk, being the final waste product after redigestion of soft pellets. These are only released outside the burrow and are not reingested. Soft pellets are usually produced several hours after grazing, after the hard pellets have all been excreted. They are made up of micro-organisms and undigested plant cell walls.

The chewed plant material collects in the large cecum, a secondary chamber between the large and small intestine containing large quantities of symbiotic bacteria that help with the digestion of cellulose and also produce certain B vitamins. The pellets are about 56% bacteria by dry weight, largely accounting for the pellets being 24.4% protein on average. These pellets remain intact for up to six hours in the stomach; the bacteria within continue to digest the plant carbohydrates. The soft feces form here and contain up to five times the vitamins of hard feces. After being excreted, they are eaten whole by the rabbit and redigested in a special part of the stomach. This double-digestion process enables rabbits to use nutrients that they may have missed during the first passage through the gut, as well as the nutrients formed by the microbial activity and thus ensures that maximum nutrition is derived from the food they eat. This process serves the same purpose within the rabbit as rumination does in cattle and sheep.

Rabbits are incapable of vomiting.

2012-05-06T00:38:00.000-07:00

RABBITS AVAILABLE FOR SALE....

These rabbits are a month old.. all of them are anggora and lionheads mix..
so please call or sms me if interested at 0173694649, Nishan.
there are more pics to be uploaded..

2012-04-20T04:06:00.002-07:00

RABBIT FACTS...

pic (A)

pic (B)

Rabbits sold at pet shops are basically a month old or more. Those rabbits will look the cutest and most fluffy but the reality is those rabbits does not have proof for what true breed it is or its quality..
I'm producing rabbits that anyone can be certain of its quality. Take a look at pic (A) its a a month old rabbit that is produced at my farm, pic (B) is the same rabbit at the age of 3 months old.. So this article is to proof the quality of rabbits i produce and to educate all my blog visitors to not get fooled by irresponsible people that cheats to sell whatever stock they have..

2012-04-19T18:35:00.002-07:00

NEW BORNS AVALABLE FOR SALE...

These cute bunnies will be available for sale in another 25 days... So if interested book fast..
price will be determined when its available for sale.. call or sms at 0173694649- nishan

These are female netherland dwarf rabbits age a month+ for sale..
Anyone interested to find their male rabbit a pair please call my number above..

netherland dwarf, price: RM 70

Netherland Dwarf, price: RM 70

2012-04-15T20:47:00.000-07:00

LIONHEAD RABBITS

No matter how the Lionhead rabbits began, I think most people will agree they are adorable.

They may be different versions on the origination of these bunnies but one thing is for sure, is that a Lionhead bunny is a mutation. And whoever started this breed the outcome is wonderful.

There are two different versions of this breed, a European and the United States. The European breed is a crossbred between a Swiss Fox, Belgian Dwarf and a small woolly breed. They have also added a lop eared Lionhead along with the erect eared.

The United States breed was imported from Europe, and then it was crossbred with different smaller breeds to improve the breed. In 2005, the Lionhead was finally recognized by the ARBA, but only in the tortoise color.

Since this is a relative new breed, and there are so many different colors the ARBA is taking time to prepare this breed for acceptance.

These rabbits are known to be a friendly bunny and they enjoy human contact. They will make wonderful house rabbit.

Since they have a woolly gene, brushing is a definite weekly routine for these pets. You will also need to check their little bunny bottoms to make sure they are kept clean. With the extra fur sometimes they need human help with the cleaning.

2012-04-15T20:36:00.004-07:00

jj Nesting For New Borns..

1. Designate a nesting area for the newborn bunnies. This may be indoors or outdoors depending on the season and climate. Baby bunnies must stay warm so they don't burn too many calories. Babies also need to stay dry. Make sure any outdoor nesting area is away from the elements.

o 2

Set up the bunnies' nesting box. A nesting box can be made with a wooden or cardboard box or a cat litter box. Layer the bottom of the nesting area with towels. Using a bunched up towel on top will give the bunnies a place to snuggle. Nesting wool, found in pet stores, can also be used on top of the towels. Keep babies in the dark by covering the box with another towel. Confirm that enough air is circulating in the nesting area to keep the bunnies from suffocating.

o 3

Check the temperature of the nesting box location. Whether indoors or outdoors, the ideal temperature is 68 to 72 degrees F. If cooler, you may want to place a heating pad on low under one-half of the towel, providing the babies a warm and cool place to rest.

o 4

Separate the mother bunny, if applicable, if she appears to be neglecting the babies. She may hurt the baby bunnies if left in the same nesting box. Neglect can be determined by evaluating the bunnies' health and appearance. A mother rabbit taking proper care of her young will supply them all the necessary food in their first two weeks of life. You must feed the babies no more than twice a day if they don't have a mother or are lacking proper care from a mother.

o 5

Prepare the baby bunnies for feeding by placing them in hand towels and laying them on your lap. They should be on their backs for feeding to mimic how they feed from their mother.

o 6

Determine how much food the bunnies need according to age. Use an eye dropper to feed the bunnies Kitten Milk Replacer, available at pet stores and some veterinarian offices. Add a tablespoon of cream to mimic the calorie count of rabbit milk. Buy acidophilus from a health food store in capsule form, and add it to the KMR for feeding. This combination gives your bunnies the best survival rate due to its ability to maintain the babies' stomach bacterial balance. Newborns should receive 5cc of KMR and one-half cc (one-half of a capsule) of acidophilus each day. At one-week, increase the bunnies' intake to 10 to 15 cc.

o 7

Use a wet cotton ball to stimulate the mother rabbit's behavior by wiping the bunnies between their front legs towards their anal area. This encourages them to go to the bathroom, which helps keep their digestive tracks in order.

o 8

Clean the nest box and the newborn bunnies daily. It is important to remove any wetness from the nest box. Wipe any milk excess from the bunnies' mouths and hair.

o 9

Offer hay and rabbit pellets to baby bunnies over 10 days old whose eyes have opened. Use a shallow dish for drinking water so that the bunnies can't drown.

o 10

Keep newborn baby bunnies away from predators and other rabbits that may harm them.

NETHERLAND DWARF

2012-03-27T03:32:00.004-07:00

NETHERLAND DWARF

The Netherland Dwarf is the smallest breed of rabbit and was produced in the Netherlands in the early 20th century and first imported to the UK in 1948. Small Polish rabbits were bred with smaller wild rabbits and through years of selective breeding the result is todays Netherland Dwarf rabbit.

Netherland Dwarfs have a cute baby face with large round eyes that you’ll just fall in love with. They are quiet, gentle and friendly with a small compact sturdy body weighing only just over 2 pounds. Their nature and size making them an ideal and popular pet especially for children.

MINI LOP

2012-03-27T03:27:00.003-07:00

MINI LOP

The Mini Lop is the smallest of the lop breeds and is fairly new on the rabbit fancy scene, only having been a recognised breed since 1980. The first Mini lops were bred from the larger German Lop and with selective breeding over the years their size was reduced and a variety of different colours produced.

The breed is now fast becoming one of the most popular rabbits to have as a pet or for showing due to their small compact size, friendly nature and their love for attention.

2012-03-12T21:03:00.000-07:00

How To Potty Train Your House Rabbit

Bringing a rabbit into your home can be daunting. There are many things to consider such as the added responsibility, rabbit proofing your house, learning to live with a small creature in his small world, and how to get your rabbit to do his business in the litter box an not on the floor.

Here are some helpful tips to get you and your bun through the potty training process, which by the way, is quite simple. You will find that rabbits are easy to potty train. They like to be clean and like their personal space to be clean.

Remember that every rabbit has his own personality. The following ten steps will provide the basics on how to potty train your rabbit. However, it is important to know the personality of your bun and teach him accordingly. We all have our own way of walking through life, so do rabbits.

1) The Litter Box
A large litter box is best even if your rabbit is a mini bun. A large litter box will give the bun the room to dig in his hay and to choose a corner that he will designate, the bathroom. You can find a popper litter box at your local House Rabbit Society or local pet store. A cat’s litter box will do nicely, again large in size.

2) The Ingredients & Where to Find Them

The best sorted hays and grasses I have found through my local House Rabbit Society or animal shelter for about half the price of a pet store. The quality is also better. You can then purchase toys for your bun with the extra money you save. Otherwise, you can check with your local farming supply company to see if they sell boxes of sorted hays and grasses. If you decide to get grass and hay from the pet store, make sure the quality is good.

You will also need bedding for the bottom of the litter box. Bedding called CareFresh is the safest bedding to use. CareFresh is made of recycled paper, contains no chemicals, and is absorbent, which you will appreciate later.

3) Prepare the Litter Box for Use

Line the litter box with a plastic bag liner. Liners designed for cats work great. Fill the box with Carefresh about two inches deep. Then, fill the litter box full of hays and grasses. I will explain why in step 6.

4) Put the Litter Box in the Bathroom

Some breeders suggest potty training in the kitchen. However, I find that the bathroom provides just enough space to concentrate on the process. Not to mention, I would rather not have breakfast with my rabbits business.

Put the litter box in the bathroom along with a towel on the floor for the bun to lie on and a bowl of water. A few toys would be nice as well. Make sure to block the door so that the bunny cannot escape. The point is to limit the buns choices of where to use the potty.

5) How This Works

Your rabbit most likely will lie on the towel for a while, groom himself, and play with the toys you bought with that extra money you saved. But when he feels the urge, he will hop into his litter box and do his business in one corner of his choice. He will use that corner to deposit his droppings from that point forward. As I have already pointed out, rabbits like to be clean.

6) Eat and Do Your Business

Rabbits like to save time by eating hay and doing their business at the same time. Odd as it may sound, it works for them. You will continue to find small round droppings, or what I like to call bio marbles, in only one corner of the litter box. The rest of the area is open for grazing. He will eat the rest of the hay, dig in it, and play in it. This is other reason why having the litter box close by will help the bun learn to use it and not the floor.

7) Go to the Bathroom
Depending on your rabbit’s personality, the potty training process may take a few days to a couple of weeks. Make sure that you spend time in the bathroom with the bun. You want to continue developing your relationship with your new friend. You will also have the opportunity to commend your rabbit for doing a good job. When not in training, put the box back it its designated area, such as near or in his cage. When bunny is use to seeing his litter box where it belongs, he will know where it is when in need and what to do with it.

8) Don’t Give in to the Bunny Nose
If your bun has a little accident outside of the litter box, you will want to teach him that’s a no, no. Your bunny will look at you with that little twitchy nose, looking so cute, but don’t give in to the bunny nose. In a calm voice point to the droppings or puddle and share your feelings. They might not understand the words, but they understand the tone of your voice. Under no circumstances should you ever strike your bun.

At that point, the droppings need to be placed back in the litter box. The rabbit will smell that his mark has been moved back into the litter box. This will encourage him to hop back into the litter box to take care of business.

9) Exercise is Healthy
Throughout the potty training process, it’s important to let your bunny run free and play. Keeping him locked up in the bathroom all day is not good. Work on potty training several hours of the day only. At night, he needs to sleep in his cage. Exercise will always be important to a long bunny life.

10) Have Fun
Potty training your bun, takes patience and time. Don’t feel pressured because your rabbit will pick up on that. We all move at our own pace, just enjoy being together.

Rabbits make great house pets and friends. They are fun to watch as they play and will enjoy you just as much. They are not as destructive as dogs or as moody as cats. Most of all have fun with your bun.

2012-03-08T04:12:00.003-08:00

Rabbits at my farm.....

2012-02-21T20:18:00.000-08:00

RABBITS AVAILABLE.....

You can choose the ones you want by their numbers...
call me at : 0173694649,nishan

How To Take Care Of Newborn Rabbits

2012-02-11T18:30:00.000-08:00

1. 1 Designate a nesting area for the newborn bunnies. This may be indoors or outdoors depending on the season and climate. Baby bunnies must stay warm so they don't burn too many calories. Babies also need to stay dry. Make sure any outdoor nesting area is away from the elements.

o 2

o 3

o 4

o 5

Prepare the baby bunnies for feeding by placing them in hand towels and laying them on your lap. They should be on their backs for feeding to mimic how they feed from their mother.

o 6

o 7

o 8

Clean the nest box and the newborn bunnies daily. It is important to remove any wetness from the nest box. Wipe any milk excess from the bunnies' mouths and hair.

o 9

Offer hay and rabbit pellets to baby bunnies over 10 days old whose eyes have opened. Use a shallow dish for drinking water so that the bunnies can't drown.

o 10

Keep newborn baby bunnies away from predators and other rabbits that may harm them.

Rabbit Cages

2012-02-11T18:16:00.000-08:00

There are a lot of cages sold for rabbits that aren't really ideal rabbit homes, though. Some are just too small, and many have wire floors, which may make cleaning easier but doesn't provide much comfort to the bunny.

How Big

As usual, bigger is better. If your bunny will spend most of its time in a cage, then get the biggest cage that is practical in the home. As a general rule, the cage should be at least 4 times the size of the rabbit. A guide is 24" by 36" for smaller rabbits (less than 8 lbs.) or 30" by 36" for larger rabbits. A two story condo with a Pet rabbits can be quite readily kept in cages in the home, with some freedom to run free in the house (after thoroughly rabbit-proofing, of course). Rabbits take fairly well to litter training so many people will let their bunnies run free in the home for at least part of the day. Even if your rabbit is thoroughly toilet trained and your house thoroughly rabbit proofed, a cage will act as a safe haven or nest, where the rabbit can retreat to rest.

mp joining the levels seems popular with rabbits too.

Cage Design

As a rule, rabbits take fairly well to being litter trained, so a solid floor is fine and not too difficult to clean. Many cages meant for rabbits are still made with wire floors over pull out pans, designed to make cleaning easier. However, wire floors (even those with very narrow spacing) can be uncomfortable and can cause sores or the hocks, so it is best to get a cage without wire floors. Wire floors should be covered with a piece of wood, or grass or sisal mats (grass mats are are nice to have in solid floored cages too, to vary the surface and provide traction).

The door to the cage should be about large enough to get a litter pan (and rabbit) through easily. A side door is probably best, as a top-opening cage makes getting the rabbit in and out a little harder (and it is best if the rabbit can get in and out on its own). The opening should have smooth edges, or plastic guard strips over the edges of the wires.

If you are handy, you can get fairly creative and construct your own cage. This allows a custom size to be designed. My own rabbit has a home made cage that is not ideal but works fairly well.

Baby Rabbits For Sale

2012-02-10T21:05:00.000-08:00

Available for sale in another week.
for inquiries please contact the number or email below.
Nishan:017-3694649
nishan.boy92@gmail.com

lionhead and anggora breed

anggora and dwarf mix rabbits

lionhead and anggora rabbits

lionhed and anggora rabbits

2012-02-09T20:39:00.000-08:00

How to care about female rabbits and their babies

Instructions

o 1

Create a nest. The baby bunnies will need a nest made of something soft such as a blanket or towels in a box. Also, pet stores sell nesting wool for baby rabbits. Cover the box to create a dark environment, but leave a gap of about an inch for air to reach the babies. The room temperature should be between 68 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit and the bunnies should be kept in a quiet area.

o 2

Feed the mother rabbit a healthy diet consisting of high-fiber pellets and fresh vegetables. Stay away from beans and rhubarb. Serve her broccoli, Brussels sprouts, carrots with tops, celery and other green leafy vegetables. Her babies should be nursing, but rabbits only nurse once a day. If the female is not feeding her babies, take her out of the nesting area so she does not harm them. Feed the babies kitten milk replacement twice a day with a tablespoon of cream added to each can. Use a kitten feeding bottle to give milk to newborn bunnies. Check out mybunny.org for a chart on how much to feed a baby bunny each week before weaning at four weeks. Overfeeding can lead to death.

o 3

Handle with care. When lifting bunnies, do not pick them up by the ears or scruff. Stroke the top of a rabbit's head. Unlike dogs, rabbits do not react positively to having someone displaying a hand for sniffing. This action is perceived as threatening to rabbits and may lead to an attack. Many rabbits do not enjoy having the tip of their nose or chin touched. Once a bunny is comfortable being held, you can cradle it.

o 4

Clean the rabbit and babies. After feedings, wash each baby bunny's face and bottom. When the mama rabbit needs cleaning, cradle her. The cradling position is known to lead a bunny into a hypnotized state so wiping her face and other areas will be easier.

o 5

Exercise rabbits. Bunnies require exercise for good health. Allow the female rabbit to exercise, then return her to the babies for nursing after she has had time to run around.

o 6

Plan for the future. Decide if the female rabbit and bunnies will be indoor pets or kept outside. Indoor rabbits can be litter box trained. If rabbits are kept outside, do not allow them to roam free unless you do not plan on keeping them as pets. A suitable pen must be purchased or constructed. It is recommended that any rabbits kept outside as pets be brought inside at least once a day.

2012-02-09T20:30:00.000-08:00

1. How to nurture a new born baby rabbit

1 o Designate a nesting area for the newborn bunnies. This be indoors or outdoors depending on the season and climate. Baby bunnies must stay warm so they don't burn too many calories. Babies also need to stay dry. Make sure any outdoor nesting area is away from the elements.

o 2

o 3

o 4

o 5

Prepare the baby bunnies for feeding by placing them in hand towels and laying them on your lap. They should be on their backs for feeding to mimic how they feed from their mother.

o 6

o 7

o 8

Clean the nest box and the newborn bunnies daily. It is important to remove any wetness from the nest box. Wipe any milk excess from the bunnies' mouths and hair.

o 9

Offer hay and rabbit pellets to baby bunnies over 10 days old whose eyes have opened. Use a shallow dish for drinking water so that the bunnies can't drown.

o 10

Keep newborn baby bunnies away from predators and other rabbits that may harm them.

RABBITS FOR SALE

2012-02-09T03:47:00.000-08:00

LIONHEAD BREED

This are males for sale...
Interested, please call me at :
Nishan:0173694649

HOLAND LOP

2012-01-31T23:29:00.000-08:00

Rabbit Body Language

Until I got my bunny I never knew they had rabbit body language. They do this for numerous reasons such as they are happy, they are angry, or it could be because they are scared. Here is a list and description of rabbit body language:

BINKY

They do this to show you that they are happy. They do a little jump and spin in the air. this is hard to get a picture of since they do this really fast.

Standing on Back Legs

They will do this so they can get a better view of the room if they think there may be danger, or they will do this to try and get the treat/food that you might be holding.

Flat on the ground

This could be because your rabbit is saying "Don't hurt me...your the boss here......I surrender!" or it could also mean your rabbit is enjoying getting his head stroked and is happy.

Upside down, legs in air

This means they are in total happiness and often do this after a lot of binkying!

Thumping

This can mean that your bunny is telling you that he is frightened or there is danger. I have also noticed that my male rabbits thump when one of them rubs their chin on the hutch and the one inside the hutch dosn't like it.

Tooth Grinding

If it is a low tooth grinding, this indicates that they are happy. This is like a cats purr. If it is loud grinding, this indicates that your rabbit is in pain.

Sniffing

This can mean that they are talking to you or they are annoyed. Female rabbits may sniff when you are picking them up.

Grunts

Normally because they are angry. They may bite.

Tiptoeing Bunny

They will do this when you have placed something they haven't seen/smelt before near them and they go to investigate it. There ears will be forward when they are doing this.

Interesting fact- Rabbits will usually sleep with their eyes open. The only giveaway that they are sleeping is that they often twitch and their noses stop wriggling.

2012-01-31T23:18:00.000-08:00

Rabbit Needs

Rabbit Needs are important. You have to make sure that you give them lots of hay (it is cheaper to just buy a whole hay bale from your local pet shop but if you can't, bags and compressed hay are fine) this is a large part of their diet, as well as toys since they can die of boredom.

If you have a bunny or are thinking about buying one, make sure you have the time to look after them properly as well. This involves (if they live in a hutch outside) letting them have a run around in your garden or their run. This is also quite an important part about rabbit needs. They love to have a nibble on the grass and to hop around freely.