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Bed Bug Prevention

2010-10-04T15:17:00.002-05:00

Its often better to prevent infestation than deal with the costs of treating an infestation after the fact. Treatment includes products, dry cleaning and laundry bills, replaced furniture, loss of sleep and even prolonged psychological impacts. There are several steps you can take to drastically reduce the likelihood of getting infested with bed bugs:

Seal your Apartment or House
If you live in an apartment building, sealing your apartment from migrating bed bugs will help eliminate the possible intruders. It is very common to have bed bugs migrate into your apartment from a neighboring apartment. To seal your apartment you can use silicone caulk and spray foam. Seal the baseboards, and cracks and crevices with the silicone caulk. You can use the spray foam around pipes and radiators to seal the larger gaps.

Treat your home with effective residual insecticides
We sell 2 specially designed residual insecticides for bed bugs. The first, which we recommend for most residual treatments is our organic Diatomaceous earth. The product should be applied along all perimeter walls of your home. In an infested building, the baseboards of exterior walls are the number one entry point for bed bugs into your home. The second product is Garden.com Residual Bed Bug Killer (quart) This is typically recommended for commercial applications as it is not visible. Again, it would be applied to the exterior walls of the infested home as well.

Treat your luggage before travel
We carry an exclusive product that is the only one of its kind designed to be put on luggage before you travel. The specially formulated insecticide will deter bed bugs from crawling onto your luggage and you taking them back home with you. You can see more on this product here.

Be cautious while staying in hotels
Inspect any hotel room for signs of bed bugs before settling in. Search the seams of the mattress and box spring as well as the headboard for signs of bed bugs. Look for bed bugs themselves along with dark streaks or spots that could indicate the presence of bed bugs. Keep your luggage as far away from the bed as possible and do not put luggage where previous visitors would have most likely put theirs. You can also spray the sidewalls of the mattress with our Bed Bug Luggage Spray to kill any visible or non-visible bed bugs as well as deter them from biting.

Disinfect luggage and clothes upon returning home
Unpack your luggage outside of the home or far from living spaces. Immediately put clothes into a washing machine with water or straight into a dryer on high for about 30 minutes. Vacuum all surfaces of your luggage and spray with our with our Contact Killer Spray. Make sure you seal the vacuum bag or vacuum contents in a ziploc bag once complete.

Wash All Linens in Extremely Hot Water

Turn the washing machine to its hottest water setting. For a really bad case run the bedding in the hot water wash twice. Take bedding out of the washing machine and place in the dryer. Make sure that the dryer is on the hottest setting.

Encase your Mattress and Box Spring

Shortly after bed bugs enter your home, they will find their human feed source and infest as near them as possible. This typically means bed bugs will infest in and on our mattress and box spring. Because of the structure of the mattress and box spring bed bugs can often live in them undetected. They will infest along a seam or deep within the mattress/box spring, where you may never see them. Encasing your mattress and box spring will prevent bed bugs from penetrating them and limit any potential places of infestation. Not only will this deter infestation, but it makes for quick and easy inspection of infestations. Also, encasing your mattress and box spring will protect your investment from possibly having to be thrown out in the future.

Be aware and educate Yourself

Knowledge can go a long way in your efforts to prevent and infestation. Learn what bed bugs look like and how to identify an infestation . Be cautious of any incoming packages, luggage, laundry, bundles, etc. Don't place items on the ground in common areas of apartment buildings, including hallways. Be extra cautious in common areas such as the lobby, elevators, and laundry room. Inspect any shared washer and dryer before use.

It Doesn't Take an Army to Fend off Army Worms!

2010-08-17T14:29:00.000-05:00

Armyworms are running rampant this time of year. If your lawn appears to be dry and thinning, you could have armyworms... and the damage could get considerably worse very quickly. The worms prefer fescue lawns and will then move into hybrid Bermudagrasses, saving zoysiagrasses for last. Fescue lawns can be wiped out in a day, and the damage is severe. If you think you have them, look down onto a thinning area of lawn for the worms. They are about an inch and a half long and like to climb to the tip of the grass plant and work their way down. They have an inverted "Y" on their face. Fortunately, armyworms are easy to control with Sevin Insecticide. It can be applied with a fertilizer spreader, and it should be very effective for control. Because the armyworms are here so early this year, I suggest that you go ahead and buy some Sevin and be ready to apply as soon as you see them. Or, tell your lawn contractor to go ahead and apply an insecticide for them. As an advance indicator, watch for the armyworm moths flying around your lawn at night as your car headlights shine across your lawn. At my house, there are so many that it looks like a light snow. This is a dead giveaway that they are laying eggs which soon will hatch into the voracious eating larvae

Garden Article Test

2010-06-14T10:46:00.000-05:00

Test Article

Pre-Emergent Weed Control

2010-03-17T11:38:00.003-05:00

Garden.com offers a product called Amaze Pre-Emergence Herbicide. It has been tested to keep your flowerbeds Weed Free for 6-8 Months. Green Light Amaze is a selective, pre-emergence herbicide that is a surface applied (non-incorporated) treatment. Amaze Granules will remain stable on the soil surface; however, rainfall or irrigation is needed to move the product into the weed seed germinating layer of the soil Weeds Controlled: Grasses such as Barnyardgrass, Crabgrass, Goosegrass, Johnsongrass (seedling), Panicum, and Sandbur. Broadleaf weeds such as Chickweed, Henbit, Lambsquarters, Pigweed, Purslane, Spurge, and Woodsorrel. Turf: Use Amaze Granules for control of Sandbur (Grassbur) in warm season turf. Application to established St. Augustine, Bermuda, Centipede, and Zoysia grasses should be made prior to seed germination (early spring). Apply at the rate of 2.5 to 3.5 pounds per 1,000 square feet. One 8 lb. bag covers 2,000 square feet for control of Sandbur (Grassbur) in established turf. Ornamentals: Amaze Granules can be used on Abelias, Azaleas, Boxwood, Chrysanthemums, Euonymus, Gardenias, Geraniums, Hibiscus, Holly, Honeysuckle, Ice Plants, Impatiens, Junipers, Marigolds, Nandinas, Pansies, Periwinkles, Petunias, Photinias, Rhododendrons, Roses, Viburnums, Zinnias, and others.

What is Sexual Propagation?

2010-02-19T06:46:00.000-05:00

Sexual propagation is the creation of a seed through the pollination of the female part of the flower by the pollen of the male flower. The most common and least expensive method of propagating plants by far is from the seed. Flowers are beautiful to look at but their ultimate purpose is to produce seed to perpetuate their species. Seeds become fertilized embryos when the male pollen from the stamen pollinates the female pistil part of the flower. When the right conditions for light, oxygen and temperature are met, the seed will come out of dormancy and begin to grow. Not all seedlings are exact duplicates of their parents, but variations might be able to adapt and survive better. To propagate a seed successfully it is essential that the conditions be right. Temperature, humidity, light and oxygen and carbon dioxide supply must be favourable to ensure germination. Each kind of seed has specific requirements for germination. Some seeds must be frozen prior to planting, some like a very moist environment while others prefer very dry conditions. For most common seeds the growing medium, in which propagation is to take place, should be sterile and supply plenty of oxygen while retaining moisture. As the temperature gradually warms and spring officially arrives, you will probably be spending as much time outdoors as possible enjoying time with your new plants. Whether they were born from seed or vegetative clones, there is nothing more satisfying than playing a part in the procreation of the very thing that makes gardening possible, the plant

Asexual Propagation By Seperation

2010-02-18T06:30:00.000-05:00

Today we continue to discuss Vegetative propagation. As you know by now it is a form of asexual reproduction of a plant - this blog will focus on sepration. Only one plant is involved and the offspring is the result of one parent. The new plant is genetically identical to the parent. Separation is the term that applied when plants produce new bulbs beside the old one, an example would be daffodils and tulips. These plants need to be dug up and separated every three to five years to continue blooming. Some plants like gladiolus and crocus have corms, which are similar to bulbs. These plants can form tiny cormels around the large corm. The cormels are separated from the parent and replanted to become new plants.

Asexual Propagation By Plant Dividing

2010-02-17T06:45:00.000-05:00

Our favorite way to propagate plants is division. The plants do most of the work and the rest is relatively easy! Division is necessary to keep some plants healthy and vigorously growing. Perhaps the easiest division is when the plant sends out suckers. Suckers or runners develop below the surface in the area around the crown; they are simply dug up and replanted. The new plants will need to be trimmed back to encourage growth and kept moist until established. Offsets are branches that develop at the base of the parent plant. They may look like a thick stem with a rosette of leaves. They can be severed from the parent when they have developed a root system and then rooted like a cutting. These are common in cacti and many bromeliads. Many perennials and some shrubs can be divided at the point where the roots come into contact with the shoots of growth or the crown. There are many methods, but generally the entire plant is dug up in late winter or early spring. If the plant has multiple stems growing from the crown and a fibrous root system, it can be cut from the top to the bottom along the stem growth. Plant the divisions quickly so that they do not dry out. Herbaceous perennials like daylilies, hostas, and asters that grow in large clumps can simply be dug up and pulled apart, usually in the early spring. This can be done by removing some of the plants around the outside of the root ball or by lifting the entire clump out of the ground and separating by hand. If the clump does not come apart easily you can use a sharp knife or pruners to cut it into pieces. Be sure to include good sprouts and roots on each piece. Try not to divide the plant into pieces that are too small to thrive. Replant the divisions at the same depth as they were growing before and keep them well watered until they become established.

Propagation by Grafting and Budding

2010-02-16T06:42:00.001-05:00

Grafting is widely used in the nursery industry, often with fruit and nut tree production. It involves joining together two different plants so that they continue to grow as one. Only plants that are closely related can be grafted successfully. The scion or the desired plant is joined with the under stock or parent plant that develops the root system. After the graft has grown together, remove the top of the under stock. This process is done when new growth starts in early spring. Budding is similar to grafting except one newly developed latent bud is joined with the rootstock. This is usually done in mid summer. Both grafting and budding are not widely used in the home garden but if you call yourself a Yardiac you should at least try Grafting this year.

Asexual Propagation by Layering

2010-02-15T06:41:00.000-05:00

Layering is a great way to produce more plants. The process involves developing roots on a stem that is still attached to the parent plant. When the stem has rooted, it is separated from the parent and is a new plant. Often plants will do this by themselves. Simple layering happens when you bend a branch of a mature plant to the ground and cover it with soil, leaving the terminal end exposed. Wounding the side of the branch that is underground will help root development. When the branch is adequately rooted, detach and transplant. Compound layering is similar to simple layering, except that you alternately cover and expose a flexible branch, wounding each stem section that is covered with soil. Separate each plant after roots have developed and transplant. With Tip layering, the tip of a current season shoot is planted in the ground about 3 or 4 inches deep. The tip of the branch will begin to grow down and then change directions to curve upwards. Roots will grow at the bend. Remove the plant from the parent after one season and transplant. In Mound layering, you cut the plant back to the ground in the dormant season and then mound soil around the base. The newly developed shoots will form roots and become new plants. Air layering is a good choice for thick-stemmed plants. Choose a well-developed shoot and cut a wound in the stem exposing the cambium layer. Wrap the wounded area with moistened sphagnum peat moss and tightly cover it with plastic securing top and bottom with tape or rubber bands. Check frequently and do not let the peat moss dry out. When the roots can be seen in the peat moss, cut the new plant off just below the root ball and replant. Good Luck!

Asexual Propagation From Cuttings

2010-02-14T06:38:00.001-05:00

Asexual propagation (AKA Vegetative Propagation) has many advantages. Most importantly, it is a way to ensure an exact genetic copy of the parent plant. It is also a fast way to a mature plant and makes it easy to share plants that are not ready to be dug up and divided. For some cultivars, this may be the only way they can be propagated. The most common methods of asexual propagation are cuttings, layering, grafting, budding, separation and division. Some methods are better suited than others for the propagation of certain plants. Growing plants from cuttings is easier than most people think. A cutting is a small section of a plant that is severed from the parent with a sharp knife and usually treated with a root stimulant to encourage growth so it will regenerate into a new plant. Cuttings can be a portion of leaf, stem or root. Stem cuttings are most common and they can take the form of softwood, which are cuttings of new growth, semi-hardwood, which are cutting of new growth later in the season after it has hardened slightly, and hardwood cuttings, which are taken when the plant is dormant. When taking the cutting, cut off three to six inches and most of the leaves and all flowers or buds. This insures the plants energy will go towards root development. Cuttings root best when placed in a sterile rooting medium such as coarse perlite or vermiculite. An even better medium would be an equal mix of perlite, vermiculite and peat moss to enhance moisture retention but still be loose enough to allow roots to easily develop. A mist bed that sprays a fine mist of water over the cuttings many times a day is an excellent option. If one is not available, you can start the cuttings in a pot or shallow rooting tray. Moisten the medium and insert the treated cuttings with at least one node below the surface. Place a clear plastic bag over the cuttings to increase the relative humidity. This decreases moisture loss and still allows air circulation. Check often and loosen plastic if condensation develops inside, too much moisture will cause your cuttings to rot. Place in bright but not direct light and do not allow them to dry out. Tug gently after 2 or 3 weeks, if you feel resistance, the cutting has rooted. Dig them out; do not pull and plant in soil in individual pots.

Propagating Plants 101

2010-02-13T06:37:00.002-05:00

Propagating Plants: Making More of What You Already Have affection Gardening has got to be the greatest hobby in the entire world. There is no other pastime where you can take the object of your affection and admiration, the very thing that makes your hobby possible, the plant, and increase its numbers as you see fit at little or no additional charge! If you plant a golf ball, no matter how hard you try, it will never grow another golf ball. If you cut off a piece of a golf club, it will never regenerate into a whole golf club. You cannot divide a golf club and expect that it will ever be a functional golf club again. The same holds true for all of the necessary equipment for most other hobbies. To be able to make one plant into many plants is one of the most enjoyable parts of being a gardener, not to mention one of the most cost effective. Propagating successfully will also make you very popular among your gardening friends! There are basically two types of propagation. Asexual propagation refers to multiplying the number of plants by using parts of the plant such as leaves, stems, and roots to regenerate into a new plant. Sexual propagation is the union of pollen (male) and egg (female) to produce a seed. Over the next Seven Days we will discuss the various ways you can "fool around" with Plant Propagation - so check back each day.

Preventing Snow Shoveling Injuries

2010-02-06T18:49:00.000-05:00

Over 30,000 people each year are treated for injuries that occur while shoveling or removing ice and snow manually; and another 5,000 are injured while using snow blowers. These types of injuries range from sprains to heart attacks. There are several things you can do to prevent these types of injuries.

Dress for Success!

You will need to dress appropriately. Light, layered, water-repellent clothing provides both ventilation and insulation. It is also important to wear the appropriate head coverings, as well as gloves and thick, warm socks. Also, you will need snow boots with slip-resistant soles that will keep your feet warm and dry while providing the necessary traction needed to prevent slipping and falling.

Selecting a Shovel

Shovels are made from different materials and come in many shapes and sizes. Choose a shovel that is ergonomically correct. These shovels help you to keep your back straighter reducing spinal stress. It is far easier to push snow than to lift it! There are shovels made expressly for pushing snow. Once you have your shovel, you might want to consider spraying a bit of silicon lubricant on the blade. This can help keep the snow from sticking to the shovel; the snow will slide off the shovel blade.

Technique. Technique. Technique.

Warm muscles work better. So take some time to stretch to prepare your body for activity. Do not throw snow over your shoulder! Go forward with the snow. Fresh snow is lighter in weight - so clear snow as soon as it has fallen. Snow becomes dense as it compacts on the ground. Wet snow if very heavy. One shovelful can weigh 20 pounds or more! Pace yourself; take frequent brakes to stretch your back and extremities.

And on that note...

Shoveling snow remains a frequent cause of back injuries. Injuries are not only limited to the musculoskeletal system but excessive shoveling may also place undue stress on the cardiovascular system. At any hint of shortness of breath or chest pain, shoveling should cease immediately and, if symptoms persist, medical attention sought.

How Deep Do I Plant My Seeds?

2010-01-29T07:40:00.000-05:00

This is a common question - here a Yardiac's viewpoint: Seeds vary in size from large ones like avocado and some beans, to the very minute seeds of lettuces and pansies. Small seeds must be placed on the surface of the seed-raising mix because if they are covered too thickly they will not germinate. Other seeds like sweet corn are planted at twice the depth of the thickness of the seed itself, and that is the basic rule to follow with all seeds. There are several options when planting seeds in the ground. Some seed companies are supplying a length of tape that is impregnated with seed such as radish that is evenly spaced. The tape is laid out in a straight line as a row, and the seeds will germinate at regular intervals. Happy Planting!

Sow, Sow, Sow, Your Seeds!

2010-01-28T09:17:00.004-05:00

If you are going to grow directly from seeds, it is just about time to get started. You will need light, growing media,and a heat mat. Many who try to start seeds in a sunny window end up disappointed. You are much better off and can grow a whole garden's worth - hundreds of plants - under a 40-inch Grow –Light fluorescent fixture. It works best if it’s suspended on chains, very close to the seed cups so the plants don't become spindly reaching for the light. The chains allow you to adjust that height as the plants grow. You can purchase fancy tiered racks or light tables, but any table will do. We always recommend using heating pads to encourage root growth, though that isn't necessary for a beginner. A seed-starter kit, which includes a dome that creates a greenhouse effec. It offers two ventilation points on its top, a UL Listed Waterproof Heat Mat, 11 inch by 22 inch Watertight Base Tray, 72-Cell Seedling Insert, 48 seed cups, and markers. Now you just need to determine How many seeds do you plant? If you want just six tomato plants, do you plant six seeds?

Green.org Founders Discuss THE FUTURE OF GREEN

2010-01-27T12:18:00.005-05:00

Blog Talk Radio host Heather Lounsbury, L.Ac. will discuss global warming, pollution, and how you can help withGreen.org Founders Dr. Alex Tabibi and Griffin de Luce. We'll also talk about some of the exciting features being unveiled next month on the new Green.org. You can listen live or podcast. Time: - January 27 at 10 am PST Click to join in a discussion with Green.org Founders on THE FUTURE OF GREEN

What Causes Grass to "Flower & Seed"

2010-01-26T11:02:00.003-05:00

All grasses are flowering plants, and therfore create seeds that will perpetuate the species for future generations. Grasses are either annual, completing its life cycle within one year, or perennial, meaning it returns each year as it continues to grow and repeatedly flower and fall in and out of dormancy. Based on the genetics of the individual grass, the plume-like flowers, called inflorescences, are naturally formed based on the age of the plant, day length, or temperatures. Generally speaking, grasses form their seeds after their summertime flowers are pollinated by the wind. In annual grasses, the maturation of the plant during the growing season leads to the inevitable flowering and formation of seeds to ensure new grass plants appear next year. Mowing Helps Seed Germination Grasses grow differently than other plants. The stems of grasses are called culms, and when cut, they continue to grow or elongate from a mid-section of their culms called the intercalary meristem. This causes the culm to grow much like how a telescope elongates when pulled apart. Cutting the top of a culm still allows the lower meristem area to elongate, making the grass again grow taller. Turf grasses are constantly cut, prohibiting their culms and foliage from elongating past a certain acceptable height or spread. Removal of the tips of the grass culms prevents the development of flowers and subsequent seeds. Grazing of meadow grasses by livestock creates an environment similar to weekly mowing. When lawns are neglected and not mowed, these normally carpet-like grasses quickly sprout their culms and develop flower and seeds, much to the surprise and visual disdain of homeowners. This plant response is completely normal, however.

Protect your Spring Bulbs from Critters!

2010-01-20T03:00:00.002-05:00

Between the squirrels, moles, deer and rabbits, having a successful spring bulb display can be challenging and frustrating. But there are several steps you can take to outwit these critters. Some gardeners have had success with repellents such as mothballs or blood meal. However, the best trick we have found is to dip the bulbs in a product called Tree Guard before planting them. Tree Guard's latex based formula resists water and keeps working for an entire season. A unique latex polymer carries the active ingredient, Bitrex, and holds it to the surface of the plant, resisting rain, and wash-off for up to 100 days is what makes TREE GUARD different. Tree Guard has a foul taste and smell that critters know to stay away from! It really does work. Then, cover the bulbs with a few handfuls of a sharp gravel as a good deterrent because it hurts the squirrels' feet. And if you can't get the squirrels to leave your tulips alone, try planting daffodils. they don't like them. Click Here to Order Tree Guard or to see our full line of critter ridders!

Capital Garden - Superior Design

2010-01-19T07:00:00.000-05:00

Our fiberglass planters are designed to look like meticulously handcrafted pottery. Light-weight, durable and maintenance free, perfect and practical for modern life. The high strength material uses fibers of glass as a reinforcing agent in polymers. Lightweight, yet sturdy, these fiberglass planters will weather the elements with ease. The high strength material uses fibers of glass as a reinforcing agent in polymers or plastics. Their real benefit lies in the surface to weight ratio, in other words, they are lightweight and durable. They will easily contain the necessary potting soil without fear of cracking, splitting or warping. A serious long term alternative to terracotta and lead (and even some other metals) the Stuart Collection is ideal for use inside and out. Tough, light weight, completely frost proof and non-corrosive, your Stuart Window Box requires little or no maintenance. To take care of normal cleaning, use a warm soapy water and rinse. These window boxes take much less maintenance that terracotta or metals.

Frost Protection Plant Covers

2010-01-18T12:39:00.003-05:00

The Frost Protek Plant Cover will protect your flower, fruit, and vegetable plants from being damaged or prematurely killed by bad weather or pests. The cover can extend your growing season so you may enjoy your decorative plantings as long as possible and obtain the largest yield possible from your vegetables and fruits. We Also have an Attractive Winter Jacket For Your Plants Made from a non-woven material in a subtle sage green print, ShrubGuard protects buds and branches from drying winds, winter sun, hungry animals, road salt and frost. The sage green color and leaf print is quite subtle and attractive in the landscape. Shrub Guard is simple to use; opens at the side and has a drawstring at both the top and bottom so the top may be kept open to allow snow to fall through, which helps insulate and hydrate the plant. This also prevents snow from crushing the plant. ShrubGuard is also perfect to extend the season by providing protection from early and late frosts. It will also protect from a sudden drop in temperature, keeping the plant warm during a temporary cold spell by as much as 5 to 10 degrees

Growing Pre-Fab Wire Form Topiaries

2010-01-17T06:17:00.000-05:00

Growing topiary on a prefabricated wire form will help catapult you into action, saving you time by eliminating frustration. If you are a novice with topiary, you can more easily get involved with this rewarding hobby without the need to design forms, or bend wires. Experts can save time as well, by using these forms whenever they require a commonly available shape. Regardless of your skill level, there are myriad options available to you when you have a topiary frame. You could save time by placing the topiary form over top of a shrub or bush, and trimming the bush to the form. Similarly, you could train vines to grow over your form. Alternatively, you could grow many different types of plant into the moss substrate in an effort to create varying colors textures mirroring those found in the actual creatures. In fact, you can use your topiary frame even in winter without any plants at all. Indoors, topiary frames can be used as part of a table setting - add pinecones, a wreath, and some ribbon - voila, instant decoration. You could also use the frame as a container for a gift basket: Those who participate in this historic gardening tradition often begin with a desire to challenge themselves seeking the exclusivity associated with topiary. Ultimately, they are rewarded with the satisfaction that comes from engaging their creative faculties and expressing their individuality.

Making a Potted Topiary

2010-01-15T06:14:00.001-05:00

Making a topiary is a simple and rewarding project that even someone with the brownest thumb can do. The most difficult part is planning where to display the finished topiary. Having the display location predetermined will help you select the proper shape and style of your topiary form. Upon completing your selection:

Place the form that you will be using in your pot. An eight to ten inch pot should be sufficient, but it all depends on the size of the form and the size of the plant that you will be using.
Fill the pot with soil to about an inch from the rim.
Plant the first of the ivy plugs. You will want to use three to four plugs, depending on their size.
Weave the ivy around the base of the form, and continue winding up the vines. Keep adding plugs and weaving them around the form until the pot is full.
Once you have planted and woven all of the plugs, sprinkle a little time release fertilizer on the surface of the soil.

In a few weeks, your topiary should be filled out and looking great. Distinguish your vista with a topiary touch. These wire topiary frames act as the skeleton for your topiary animal or topiary tree. Select a form that catches your eye, and quickly become immersed in this prestigious gardening tradition.

The Evolving Greenhouse

2010-01-12T07:46:00.001-05:00

Greenhouses have come a long way since the wealthy in Europe and America used them to force oranges and pineapples in glass structures known as orangeries and pineries. During the mid-nineteenth century, the greenhouse developed into a status symbol as well as a practical way to produce almost any crop. Today's greenhouses enjoy a tradition dating back much earlier than even the last century. Its roots go back some two thousand years. And it was not until 1599 that the first practical greenhouse was built. Designed by a French botanist, Jules David, and constructed in Holland, it was intended as a place to grow tropical plants for medicinal purposes. The greenhouse idea soon caught on and began spreading throughout Europe. And experiments to improve the greenhouse concept continued through the seventeenth century. New building technology led to larger and larger greenhouses that housed plants just to please the eyes and palates of European royalty. Despite the elaborateness of these structures, it was the Victorian age in England that ushered in the golden era of the greenhouse. The wealthy began competing with each other to build the most elaborate structures, primarily to house citrus fruits and rare flowers. In America, the first greenhouse on record was built around 1737 by a wealthy Boston merchant, designed primarily to grow fruit. The concept spread slowly, since almost all greenhouses were built for the wealthy. By 1825, greenhouses were increasingly common. Many were warmed by furnace-warmed air; and some were pit greenhouses built into the earth and heated largely by sunlight flowing in south-facing windows. Indeed, the modern concept of the greenhouse is now quite simple and practical. No longer is it the private domain of the elite classes, but something that anyone can have for relatively little cost. Today a greenhouse can go virtually anywhere there is space; it can be attached to a house, placed in the backyard, or perched on a roof or deck. Home production of all kinds of vegetables and flowers has never been quite as easy, or as pleasurable. Learn more and view our large selection of Greenhouses!

Start Planting Seeds Indoors Today

2010-01-05T11:19:00.000-05:00

Growing plants from seeds can be exciting. If you decide in late winter or early spring that you want to try this, follow the charts and directions on the seed packets. This can be a time consuming process, because you will have to nurture the sees in an indoor setting or cold frame, but it does give you a head start on the season. You will need starting trays, flats, a special seed starting mix, a mister, lots of light, and proper temperatures. Most people's windowsills do not offer sufficient light or heat, and some plants require what is called bottom heating, provided by coils, or a heat mat to encourage germination. Artificial lights, such as those used with houseplant work well with seedlings. Remember to keep the lights just a few inches above your seed trays. The First Step Sowing Your Seeds Fill your pots or flats, with your potting mixture, up to 1/4 inch of the top. Then, level the surface. (It's ideal to water the soil and allow it to drain thoroughly before sowing the seeds.) Use a pencil to make a hole for each seed, keeping in mind that most seeds will need to be planted four times as deep as the width of the seed. For fine seeds, cover them with a fine layer of soil. What About Humidity and Moisture Potting soil should be kept evenly moist, but not soggy. Soggy soil will cause the seeds to rot. Use a fine sprayer to water freshly planted seeds or seedlings. Watering from the bottom is ideal. To keep the humidity and moisture levels even, slip your pots and flats into plastic bags. It will also reduce the frequency of watering. Another great idea is a mini greenhouse. It's the perfect way to protect, and nurture, your plants. It will also enable you to regulate the temperature, and limit exposure to the immediate environment. Lighting Some seeds require more light than others, to germinate. Read the label on your seed packet, to guide you. Once germination is complete, all seedlings need lighting to grow into healthy plants. Supplemental light can be helpful. Take Care of Those Seedlings Caring for your seedlings in the weeks following germination is critical to their . Remember, keep the soil moist, but not soggy. Small pots and flats dry quickly, so be sure to check it frequently. If your seedlings are growing in the light of a window, turn them often, to encourage straight stems. The first two leaves you will see on the plant are not true leaves. They are food storage cells, called cotyledons. Once the first true leaves have developed, it's time to start fertilizing. Choose a good organic fertilizer and use a weak solution once a week.

Winterize Your Engines!

2009-12-02T07:59:00.000-05:00

Yardiacs take enormous pride in their "small engine" equipment. After all, most could not do the job without them! Properly storing your equipment will ensure it will be in good condition when you need to use them again next spring. Remove any plant material, or dirt, on the equipment with a scraper or a pressure washer. If you use a pressure washer to clean the equipment, avoid spraying engines with water. Dry the equipment thoroughly and wipe down any bare metal parts with light machine oil. Remove and sharpen any blades and drain the motor oil. It's important to add a gasoline stabilizer to fuel tanks before putting equipment away. The stabilizer prevents the gas from forming gums and varnishes when stored for several months. These gums and varnishes will clog carburetor jets, foul spark plugs and can cause valve and piston rings to stick. Fill tanks with fresh gas and follow the directions on the bottle of stabilizer. Cover the equipment with plastic sheets or tarps, and store them in a dry place. If they need to be repaired, use this opportunity to take them to a repair shop now before the spring rush. Don't miss the Yardiac.com Patio Furniture Covers section. Yardiac's got you covered!

How to Select & Install a Rain Barrel

2009-11-19T08:13:00.004-05:00

How many times have you watched a river of rainwater run down the driveway, and into the storm sewer, or even worse into your basement? The time has come for us to find solutions for rising water costs, stressed water systems, and dwindling resources. The answer is a Rain Barrell - Our Motto - Rain Water-Catch It-Use It! Prior to purchasing make sure your rain barrel is made of quality, food-grade material that is meant to hold water. Other types of water containers cannot be counted on to withstand the water pressure. Now when installing make sure it is set up on leveled surface (or blocks), so as to provide a safe spot for draining underneath, and a sturdy base to prevent tipping over. Always keep your rain barrels covered to prevent children or pets from falling in, and to keep mosquitoes and larvae from reproducing. Cover the downspout and drainage spots with netting or wire mesh to prevent mosquitoes and debris from getting in your water. Arrange your freeze proof rain barrel so that the overflow valve is facing away from your home's foundation.