FanaticNomadic

Croatia's Istrian Riviera, with a little bit of Venice, Italy thrown in for good measure.

2010-11-29T18:19:00.000-08:00

If you’ve been considering a beach holiday along the Istrian Riviera, you’re not alone. If not, why not? Croatia’s Istrian Riviera is becoming an ever more popular sunny destination for holidaying European families. But there’s a slow influx of North Americans that have discovered the beauty of the Adriatic coast as well.

My first impression upon arriving in Croatia was how clean and well maintained the highways and roads through the countryside were. All the buildings and homes alongside the roads were in good repair and the surrounding areas seemed immaculately landscaped. This held true for every area we passed through or visited for the duration of our time in Croatia. What a beautiful, green country.

The town of Porec teems with German, Dutch, Italian and some few English holiday-makers. Many of the menus and tourist information signs seem to be in German, Croatian or Italian. But if you don’t speak any of these languages, you’ll get by just fine on English alone.

Extremely family friendly, there are plenty of resort style hotels to choose from in Porec and the surrounding area. From guesthouses and hostels right in the city proper to 4 and 5 star resorts within a twenty minute walk, you’ll find the kind of holiday you seek.

My sister-in-law was kind enough to arrange the booking on her end (from the U.K.) for myself, my husband, and our one year old daughter. If you are making multiple stops in Europe, or even just two or three, your best bet is to book through a U.K. travel agent to fly out of London onto your next destination, as there are some incredible deals to be had. We’ve found that it’s next to impossible to find similar deals flying direct from Canada to Europe. Of course we have the luxury of staying with family in England, so this may not be an option available to you.

Through Thomas Cook, she arranged an extremely affordable package vacation flying out of London Gatwick into Pula, Croatia. We were booked into the Hotel Mediteran, a partially-inclusive resort about a twenty minute walk from Porec city center. The staff at Hotel Mediteran were more than happy to accommodate our family; arranging for a cot for our daughter and, upon our arrival, sending a mini-fridge up to our room (for a small rental fee) to store formula and baby food in.

A full breakfast buffet and dinner buffet, including coffee, tea, juice, soft drinks, red or white wine and lager were included in the package deal we purchased with our flights. Food choices were varied and tasty, although the line-ups could get pretty lengthy if you arrived just as the restaurant opened its doors.

Don’t expect pristine sandy beaches on your arrival to Porec and the surrounding area. What you will find is a wonderfully maintained seawall that wanders its way along the ocean front with rocky outcroppings to be used as “beaches.” What they’ve done here is taken the naturally occurring rock formations along the water’s edge, flattened them somewhat, laid natural stone tiling on them, and added ladders here and there for safer access to the water. All of it makes for a very aesthetically pleasing, and surprisingly comfortable experience for ocean lovers. Of course they also have acres and acres of grassy area next to the seawall to set up your beach blanket in the sun. Plenty of Pine trees along the seawall provide pleasantly shaded areas to spend the day as well.

If basking in the sun by the seaside is not your particular cup of tea, Hotel Mediteran boasts a large salt water pool with plenty of poolside seating. Finding a seat by the pool doesn’t generally pose too much of a problem here, but you’ll still find many guests here practicing the irritating habit of “chair saving;” (rising at 6am to rush out to the pool and throw their towel over select chairs before breakfast – and then, oddly, not showing up to claim their chairs until sometime after noon.)

Our hotel was not lacking for daily and nightly entertainment. An energetic team of staff members kept kids busy playing pool sports, treasure hunts, and other games during the day, while the nights were geared toward the adult guests. Local musicians, dancers and even magic shows kept those guests who did not care to wander too far from the resort entertained. We didn’t take in any of the shows ourselves, being more of the ‘exploring the city type’, but from what we did see and hear on our way in or out, there was certainly some excellent local talent performing for the guests.

Havana Bar became a favorite stop of ours on our way out on the town. Tucked around the corner and attached to the hotel, it was the perfect little meeting spot before a night out. Although attached to the hotel, the bar staff informed us that they were not part of the hotel and tabs could not be signed to your room number. No problem, the drinks there were cheap. As the name suggests, Havana Bar is a bit of a shrine to Che Guevera and all things Cuban. Great music, friendly staff, bamboo chairs with comfy cushions and a lovely open air seating area kept us there for a bit longer than intended for more than a few nights.

Of course, if taking in the shows at the hotel or sunbathing by the pool or the sea don’t hold a lot of interest for you, there are a multitude of activities and tours in and around Porec that should keep you busy.

Take a boat tour to Brijuni Islands and explore the history and natural beauty of the islands. Plenty of opportunities for wildlife viewing here.

Ride the Kupa River. This river forms a scenic natural border between Croatia and Slovenia and you can book a leisurely canoe tour, or a thrilling river rafting excursion, depending on the kind of adventure you seek.

Book a “Croatian Evening” Tour. Sample delicious local cuisine, with plenty of Croatian wine to wash it down, accompanied by Istrian and international song and dance that tell of local history. Vibrant, colorful and authentic costumes make for some great photo opportunities.

Spend the day deep-sea fishing on a trawler. Experienced local fishermen will teach you to lower and raise their fishing nets while telling tales of a fisherman’s life. Even if you’re not much of a sport fisher, it’s still an incredibly relaxing way to spend a day in the sun.

Visit one of Europe’s most photographed locales, Lake Bled. Known as “The Pearl of the Alps”, Slovenia’s Lake Bled will bring to mind scenes from the Sound of Music. Set in a pine forest, with snow capped mountains providing a stunning backdrop, the glass-like surface of the lake isn’t the only thing here worth photographing. Visit gorgeous Bled Castle, and take in the view of the toy town houses and the tiny island church; which you can get to by gondola if you wish to see it up close. Locals claim that you must make a wish as you ring the church bell to attain your heart’s desire.

Book a ferry trip to nearby Venice, Italy and visit the famous floating city and all that it has to offer. Your hotel in Porec will be happy to arrange bookings for the ferry from Croatia to Italy, or you can book at any travel agent in the city of Porec.

In order to do the city of Venice the justice it so richly deserves, I would need to write a whole separate article that touches on every aspect of its history, culture and beauty. However, since this article is mainly about Porec, Croatia, I’ll try and just touch on a few points of interest and some of the not to be missed sight-seeing opportunities of Venice.

For the coach from the hotel to the ferry port (which we could have easily walked, had we known how close it was!), return tickets for the Venezian Lines ferry to Venice, (approximately two and a half hours each way), and the boat taxi from the customs office into Venice proper, we were charged about 400 Kuna, which works out to about $80 Canadian. Very reasonable!

We were lucky enough to have our family with us in Croatia, who were more than happy to babysit for us as my husband and I took the day to ourselves to explore Venice. When we arrived in Venice, I was glad we had decided not to bring our baby, as we saw more than a few families struggling with strollers in this not-very-stroller-friendly city. And I couldn’t imagine packing her around all day in the humidity we were experiencing.

Once in Venice, there are loads of tour companies offering gondola tours, boat taxi tours, walking tours, etc. However, we chose to wander through the city by ourselves at first to explore at our own pace and decide which tours interested us. One of the first sights we saw, walking along the water’s edge, was the famous Bridge of Sighs,or Ponte dei Sospiri. Local legend has it that lovers who seal their love with a kiss under the Bridge of Sighs at sunset in a gondola will be granted everlasting love and happiness. The origin of the name of the bridge, however, is not nearly so romantic. It passes over the Rio di Palazzo and connects the old prisons to the interrogation rooms in the Doge's Palace. The name derives from the thought that prisoners would sigh at their final view of Venice through the window before being taken down to their cells.

Unfortunately, at the time of our visit, the Bridge of Sighs was under construction, and the scaffolding was covered over with a giant Coca Cola advertisement, which felt slightly jarring to the eyes amidst the beauty of Venice.

We also, of course, made a point of taking a tour by gondola while sipping champagne as we glided through the canals. It’s cheaper to buy your tickets for the gondola on the ferry ride over from Croatia; but even if you have to spend a couple of extra dollars buying them from a gondolier, it’s well worth the price, for a once in a lifetime experience.

There are plenty of caffes to stop and sip on an icy cold beer, fine wine, or frothy cappuccino lining the famous piazza at St. Mark’s Basilica, and it’s certainly a lovely place to do so, with string ensembles setting a lively backdrop amongst caffe patrons, and plenty of people watching to be done. However, don’t think the view and the ambience comes cheaply here. Before your behind even hits the chair, the nearest waiter will be over pointing out the “orchestra fee” on the menu (at least they forewarn you); not inexpensive at 11 Euro per person. On top of that there was a 10 Euro “seat charge.” And that’s all before you even order a beer! When we saw the 12 Euro price tag on the menu for bottled beer, we decided to take a fellow travelers advice and head deeper into Venice, where we were told the prices were much more reasonable.

Sitting, eating, or drinking is forbidden in the piazza as well, so grabbing a slice and a soda and settling down on the steps to people watch is out of the question. This is enforced by guards that patrol the outskirts of the square, gesturing for weary sightseers to stand up and move along. The fine for not complying is fifty Euro, although I think you’d have to push the guards patience pretty far before they actually enforced the fine.

I was glad we heeded our fellow travelers advice to head deeper into Venice, because the only way to truly experience Venice (if not by gondola) is getting lost in the labyrinth of tiny lanes and cobblestone alleys throughout the city. Not to worry, you can’t get too lost; you’ll always find yourself somewhere recognizable, or the locals are happy to point you to your destination (if any), but just be sure to give yourself time to wander a bit if you’re on a schedule at all. There are so many charming little shops, cozy wine bars, and caffes with shaded seats outdoors, that it’s easy to lose track of time here.

Many of the shops sell handmade Pinocchio marionettes, along with English or Italian versions of the storybook which can be purchased along with them. Another big seller here is handmade Venetian Carnival Masks, which make for gorgeous mementos of Venice.

In sore need of a drink and some food, we were having a hard time deciding which pizzeria or caffe to stop and revive ourselves at. So of course we ended up at an English pub. In Italy. Watching English premier league football. Did I mention that my husband’s English?

I was pleasantly surprised by the Devil’s Forest Pub. Although I was looking for an authentic Italian meal in an authentic Italian restaurant, you couldn’t help but like the friendly English staff and the backpacker kind of feel of the place. The first thing we were informed upon asking for menus was that they “don’t serve English pub food.” Perfect. A small but delicious selection of pastas and sauces did the trick for me, with some decent red wine to wash it down with.

After a few more hours of shopping and wandering through the lanes, with a taxi-boat tour of the Grand Canal thrown in to rest our weary feet, we were ready for a quick slice of pizza and a cold beer before we caught the ferry back to Croatia. One more thing I should mention regarding the ferry between Croatia and Italy; you may want to take a look at the weather forecast on the day you plan to travel. Our trip over to Italy was a pleasant two and a half hour journey across calm waters. The trip back, however, was an entirely different story. A storm had moved in rather quickly as we began our journey back to Croatia, turning a two and a half hour crossing into a harrowing six hour ordeal, with most of the passengers and crew suffering from extreme seasickness as the ferry lunged, rolled, and pitched back down into the deep troughs left by sizeable waves that at times seemed to engulf the whole boat. One tip for seasickness; face toward the back of the boat, fix your eyes on the horizon, and hold on. This helped me through much of the journey, but unfortunately, since our trip was now a good four hours longer than intended, I was out of luck once the sun went down and I had no visual horizon to fixate on. I made it though. Barely.

Back on dry land in Croatia (where I saw more than a few passengers actually kneel down and kiss the ground in gratitude), we headed back to our local, Havana Club, to plan for the next days activities.

Our trip to Porec happened to coincide with the end of season festival, which happens yearly on the last weekend in August, and is known as the “Porec 24 Hours.” It is Porec’s way of showing gratitude to the tourists for a successful season, and the locals use it as an opportunity to let off a little steam and have some fun after working non-stop through the tourist season.

The festival is held throughout the streets of Porec and the riva, where loads of food and beverage tents are set up, serving up local favorites alongside more recognizable brands, such as the Jagermeister tent, or the Red Bull tent. Dine on burek ( a delicious pastry filled with heavy cheese, meat, or pastry), fresh fish along the waterfront, palacinke (crepe desserts filled with chocolate, nuts or fruit – also delicious) or pretty much anything else you may be craving as you walk along the waterfront market, stopping to take in several bands or DJ’s along the way. You’ll know when you’re getting close to the town square, as the crowds here get livelier and livelier the later it gets and the decibels seem to rise accordingly. Here you’ll find a large main stage, complete with pyrotechnics, dancers and a succession of ever-more-energetic DJ’s. The crowd here is fun, welcoming and hell-bent on dancing up a storm. Count yourself lucky if you’re staying at the Hotel Mediteran, or at one of the hotels close to it, as these seem to be far enough away that the music is slightly muffled by the trees and hills between these hotels and the town square, because the rave continues until dawn all weekend long.

After the crowds depart and Porec has quieted down again somewhat, it’s a good time to do some shopping, sightseeing and try out some of the local restaurants. Take a stroll through the Old Town and take your pick of Croatian cuisine, kebab shops, seafood restaurants, or try one of the many Italian restaurants. Having once been part of the Venetian Republic, and due to it’s proximity to Venice, Italy; Porec has some of the best Italian restaurants to be found outside of Italy! And at very reasonable prices too.

If you’re looking for traditional Croatian cuisine, try Konoba Aba in Old Town. Dine indoors in an intimate setting or on their lovely patio, lit by candlelight and somehow just as cozy as the indoor seating. The staff here was humorous, friendly and very accommodating. And the food was spectacular. Just the thought of the filet mignon with tartufi (Croatian truffles) still makes my mouth water.

Another restaurant in Old Town Porec worth checking out, simply for the view and the experience, is Torre Rotonda. Originally built in 1474 under the Venetian government, the round tower was part of a strategically important fort used to defend Porec from the Turkish government. Now it is home to a trendy caffe bar with a perfect vantage for watching sunsets on the ocean or night life in the town of Porec. If you’re not a fan of heights, grab a table in one of the cozy nooks, formerly used as niches to house cannons, in the medieval interior of the tower.

Marconi’s Restaurant, also in Old Town, is a family friendly Italian restaurant with large outdoor seating capacity, very reasonable prices, and servers who aim to please. It’s a pleasant spot to duck out of the sun on a hot day, and have a relaxing drink or a meal on their shaded patio.

Whether you are thinking of Croatia for a romantic holiday for two, a fun destination for you and a group of family or friends, or a holiday in the sun for you, your spouse and the kids, the Istrian Riviera certainly fits the bill for any of these. There were so many games and activities geared toward children and families along the seawall that there’s not much point in listing them all. Suffice it to say that your children won’t soon be bored here!

One thing I should mention; if your child or children are still young enough that you bring the stroller or pram with you whenever you travel, I recommend that you leave it at home when you travel to Porec. Although more than family friendly, Porec and the surrounding area is definitely not stroller friendly. With countless steps, uneven roads and tiny alleys filled with slow moving sight-seers, it becomes an exercise in frustration trying to navigate all of this with a stroller. Even the hotels, which are equipped with elevators, quite often have a few flights of stairs you have to pack the stroller up before you even get to the elevator! If you and your baby are comfortable with it, a sling or a Snuggly is a good way to go here.

The Istrian Riviera was certainly different than any sunny holiday we’ve experienced, but it’s definitely one that I would love to experience again – perhaps exploring more of the coast and heading inland a bit on our next visit. If you have any tips or destinations in Porec or Venice to add, please feel free to comment below!

Weekend Summer Getaways in the Mount Baker, Washington Area

2010-07-20T19:53:00.000-07:00

Head south on the Trans Canada Highway from Vancouver, through the Fraser Valley, and you’ll be greeted by the impressive sight of Mount Baker on the horizon. Mount Baker offers spectacular skiing and snowboarding in a particularly scenic area of the Cascade Mountain Range, located in Washington State. The mountain itself is actually an active volcano; it is also the second most glaciated mountain in the Cascades. It is also, locals will proudly inform you, known as one of the snowiest place in the world. In 1990, Mount Baker set the world record for snowfall in a single season.

All of these make for great reasons to throw your skis and snowboards on the roof-rack and head south of the border from Vancouver for some fun in the snow. Inexpensive lodgings and lift passes add two more reasons to that. There are no lodgings at the actual ski resort itself, which helps to maintain the rustic atmosphere the locals strive to maintain; but there are plenty of log cabins, chalets, and rooms for rent in the foothill villages of Glacier and Maple Falls and surrounding area.

Miles and miles of pristine wilderness, heavy snowfall, and cheap lodgings and lift passes make for a fantastic winter getaway; but what about the summer? Well, some would say that summer is the best time to visit the area. Even though I’m an avid snowboarder myself, I can’t say that I would disagree.

Where to stay
Although there are no lodgings available at the ski lodge itself, visitors are spoiled for choice when it comes to the surrounding areas.

The town of Glacier, at the foothills of Mount Baker, offers the closest accommodations to the mountain. Your best bet is to get online and check out www.mtbakerlodging.com, which pretty much provides information and links for every kind of rental in the Mount Baker area.

There are plenty of affordable log cabins, condos, chalets and houses that are great for couples or even large groups of people to rent out.

Maple Falls is in a somewhat central location if you want to do a bit of exploring while you’re here. There are cabins and chalets available to rent in Maple Falls, as well as a handful of bed and breakfasts to choose from.

If you’re looking for somewhere even more secluded, and incredibly beautiful, to bunk for the weekend, there are six rustic cabins available for rent overlooking Silver Lake, about a 10 minute drive out of Maple Falls. These cabins were built by the original resort owners in the 1940’s and have since been restored for visitors to the area to make use of.
Lakeside campsites are also available for tenting or RV’ing.

If you’re in the area to do a bit cross-border shopping, but still want to remain in close proximity to the mountain to do some hiking, biking, or other outdoor activities, there’s always Bellingham. Nothing rustic about Bellingham, but there is plenty of shopping, night life, casinos, restaurants, etc.

Bellingham is about 60 miles from Mount Baker, so it’s an easy, and picturesque, drive if you don’t mind commuting back and forth between the two.

There are a few bed and breakfasts along the Mount Baker highway outside of Glacier or Maple Falls; it just takes a small amount of research online to find the perfect one you’re looking for. They are all extremely affordable and hosted by very welcoming locals, in my experience.

Sumas Mountain Lodge, very near the Sumas border crossing, is also a great option; especially for those not arriving from the lower mainland area and need a cozy place to bunk for the night before driving toward the mountain. Rustic, log cabin style suites, some with their own wood burning fireplaces, are a welcome sight after a long day on the road. Head downstairs to Bob’s Burgers and Brew and you’ll feel right at home.

One further option, which may not be as outlandish as it sounds, is to consider looking at real estate in the area, especially if you live in the lower mainland. Vacation properties in this area are much less expensive than their Canadian counterparts and are easily accessible via a short drive across the Sumas border crossing. Just take a look at www.theglenatmaplefalls.com (under Lots for Sale) to see what I mean. And there are a few other facilities just like it in the region, priced along the same lines.

Where to play
The answer to this would be obvious if you were heading to Mount Baker during winter months. Strap on your boards and skis and hit the mountain, of course! However, during summer months, your options greatly expand and it can be difficult deciding what to do while you’re here. If you live in Vancouver, the solution to this conundrum is easily solvable; come back next weekend and see what you missed the last time around!
If you’ve driven from, say, the Okanagan, or even further, you want to get in as much as you can while you’re here, though. I’ve listed a few suggestions here to help you along with that.

River Rafting on the Nooksak River makes for an exhilarating and incredibly scenic ride. Glacial melts from Mount Baker, Mount Shuksan, and Goat Mountain feed the Nooksak River. Mid to late summer is the best time to plan for this. There are several whitewater rafting companies in the area, and if you choose not to book online, you can stop at most restaurants, pubs, or shops in Bellingham, Maple Falls or Glacier and pick up a brochure to help you find a guide or an outfitter.

Numerous trails throughout the Mount Baker area draw mountain bikers from all over Washington State and the lower mainland area every year during the summer months. Stop at Graham’s Pub in the town of Glacier and you’re guaranteed to meet more than a few trail riders stopping for a pint and a pub lunch on their way up the mountain for the next ride down.

Pick up some delicious sandwiches from the deli counter at Maple Fuels, a frosty bottle of Red Barn Cider and head to Silver Lake. Spend the day relaxing day along the shoreline or on the water in one of the canoes or rowboats available for rent. No motorboats are allowed on the lake so you can be sure of a peaceful day spent drifting along and soaking up the sun.

If you’re into motorized water sports, Lake Whatcom in Bellingham allows motorboats and jet skis and there’s plenty of parking for trucks and trailers along the shoreline.

Stop by the Mount Baker Vineyards for some award winning wines and great hospitality. Staff here is happy to answer any questions you have about the Mount Baker area or the winery itself. Not a bad idea to pick up some bottles while you’re here as well, since it’s so affordably priced. Just remember to check what you’re allowed to bring back across the border.

Miles of wilderness, wildlife, and trails offer countless opportunities for dirt biking, hiking, bird watching or wildlife photography. All of this is, quite literally, right at your doorstep when you stay in the Mount Baker region.

Where to eat
Following the Mount Baker highway from Bellingham to Mount Baker, I’ll give you the culinary rundown of where you should stop for a bite along the way.

Of course Bellingham has your choice of numerous restaurants and pubs; from franchises such as Applebee’s or Olive Garden to delicious Mexican fare at Taco Lobo or upscale dining at popular bistro Café Toulouse. It’s a safe bet you’ll find something for every palate while in Bellingham.

However, some of the more interesting local flavor lies closer to the mountain.

Il Caffe Rifuggio, located just past Deming, on the right hand side of the highway, is a cozy, family run café that’s well worth the drive from Bellingham. Set against a wooded backdrop and green fields, their patio is the perfect place to enjoy some home style Italian cooking on a sunny day. Try their Mexican hot chocolate and potato pancake benny for brunch.

Next up is the North Fork Beer Shrine, a micro-brewery that also operates as a pizzeria and, believe it or not, a wedding chapel. North Fork serves up some of the best thin crust pizza around; hand tossed and straight out of the oven with an eclectic choice of toppings.
There’s also a “beer backyard” with comfy deck chairs, water features and loads of flora to admire as you sip on some barleywine, handcrafted on location.

When you reach Maple Falls, a little closer to Mt Baker, you have your pick of a handful of restaurants, coffee shops, and a bakery to choose from. All of them serve cheap, good eats and each has their own unique atmosphere.

Joowana’s, a funky little bar/restaurant, is a great place to stop for hearty breakfasts, plus-size burgers, and even some Mexican fare. Joowana’s is also another place that boasts its own “backyard,” which makes for a fantastic live music venue during the summer. Pull up a stump by the fire, order something off the BBQ, and sip on some local microbrew as you take in one of their mini music festivals.

Maple Fuels gas station may seem like an unlikely place to stop for a meal, but try one of their made to order deli sandwiches. Amazing!

Other restaurants,etc, worth mention in Maple Falls include Frosty Inn (great breakfasts), Mountain Man Espresso (equipped with a drive through for meals on the go), and Harvest Moon Bakery.

Glacier is the last stop on the way up to Mt Baker, so if you’re driving up the mountain, you’d best make a pit stop here for some grub. Graham’s, Milano’s, and Wake and Bakery are your choices for meals in Glacier. And you’ll find that all three more than fit the bill for a great meal in a cozy environment.

Wake and Bakery is the perfect stop to grab a coffee and a fresh made pastry on your way up the mountain.

Graham’s, a pub style restaurant, is a local favorite. Graham’s plays host to some fantastic local bands on weekends, including one of my favorites; Bent Grass. You may stop in for a quick bite, but stay for the party. While you’re there, try their fish tacos. Not to be missed!

Stop at Milano’s for mountain view dining on their deck. Enjoy delicious Italian fare, with a wine list to match. Service here is always warm and welcoming, and the desserts are inspiration enough for the drive to Glacier.

Live Music
For such a rustic, back-country seeming area, Mount Baker and the surrounding region has a surprisingly diverse and vibrant music scene.

The Nooksak River Casino puts on great outdoor music festivals during the summer months. Check their schedule online and plan a trip for a Blues, Jazz, Classic Rock or Country music festival. Outdoor beer gardens and food stands run by local First Nations serve up cheap beer and fantastic food to make it an all day (and evening) affair.

Joowanna’s in Maple Falls also puts on the occasional outdoor music festival in their back yard. Dine on BBQ by the bonfire and enjoy a cold beer while you take in local bands doing their thing.

Graham’s in Glacier is another great live music venue, generally hosting live bands Thursday through Sunday evenings. Enthusiastic fans and an intimate setting ensure a great night out dancing or just tapping your feet along with the music.

If you’re up for the drive to Bellingham, countless opportunities to take in a live show present themselves here. Look online or in one of the local papers and head for whichever watering hole sounds like your kind of place.

Now that I’ve given you some suggestions of what to see and do in the Mount Baker area, the only thing to do is grab your passport and hit the road. You’ll find there’s plenty more to explore when you cross the border and you’ll probably even find a few gems of your own. Feel free to share them with me if you come across something interesting that I haven’t listed here. And don’t forget your travel insurance!

One Night in Bangkok

2010-05-31T20:09:00.001-07:00

Bangkok is a common stop-over for travelers to reconnect with the city vibe, stock up on travel supplies, and get a little hedonistic. After weeks and weeks of island life, sometimes one begins to crave the chaos of life in the city; the neon lights, the honking horns, the tuk-tuks puttering crazily by, piled high with rucksacks and crammed full of backpackers. One day (and night) of Bangkok madness is usually enough to cure you of this and send you back to the islands in a big hurry, though

I’ll admit, I’ve spent more than one night in Bangkok. But not much more than that. Not at one time, anyways. I think the most I managed there at one time was a week, which is actually pretty impressive. It’s just too much to drink in all at once.
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If you should find yourself with one night to kill in Bangkok, and just can’t decide what to do with yourself (unlikely), here are a few suggestions for you. The most dedicated of travelers may possibly be able to fit this all into one 24 hour period, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Bangkok is best tasted in small sips, a little at a time.

Khao San Road
You may remember the conversation which takes place in Alex Garland’s backpacker cult hit, The Beach. The one where one backpacker, referring to the ultimate demise of off-the-beaten-track tourist destinations due to Lonely Planet guide books, wonders aloud to another; “What’s so fucking lonely about the Khao San Road?”

Good question. Bar upon bar upon guesthouse upon hostel upon restaurant upon sidewalk food vendor…well, you get the picture. There’s nothing lonely about Khao San Road. No great surprise there. Khao San Road acts as a waystation for backpackers on their way to other parts of Thailand or to neighboring countries for a visa run. At any given time you’ll find much of the guesthouses packed to capacity and every bar and restaurant full of travelers off to new destinations.

It’s a great place to book plane, train, or bus tickets to wherever in Thailand or neighboring countries you wish to go. There are loads of travel agents that are available to arrange your trip for you at little to no commission.

It’s also a great place to catch up on any important emails without the price gouging that can occur at some internet cafes at some of the more distant islands.

If you’re picky about your lodgings, it’s best to book ahead for Khao San Road. However, if you don’t much mind where you lay your head to sleep, with a little leg work, you’re guaranteed to find a room for the night, on or near Khao San Road. With new guesthouses popping up all the time, prices remain competitive.

I stayed at a few different guesthouses on different stopovers in Bangkok, including Top Guest House, Thai Thai Guesthouse, Baan Sabai Guesthouse, Sawasdee Guesthouse, Mango Lagoon Place, and D&D Inn.

All ranged from twenty dollars CDN and under and all were reasonably clean and well-maintained, with the occasional cockroach here and there. But cockroaches are pretty much unavoidable in Bangkok, so best get used to it.

By far my favorite was D&D Inn. Of course it was also the most expensive, and prices have gone up further, although not substantially, but still cheap in comparison to similar lodgings in my home country of Canada.

Boasting a rooftop pool, bar, and large, clean, air-conditioned rooms, I chose to come back to D&D Inn for my last few days in Bangkok before flying home. “Why not enjoy the hell out of my last few days here?” I thought.

Khao San Road also has no shortage of pubs, clubs and restaurants to relax in and enjoy some Sangsom and Pad Thai. Many of them play movies all day (and night) long on big screen TV’s if you’ve had enough of wandering around in the Bangkok heat and haze, shopping or sightseeing. A few have courtyard pools that you can pay a small fee to use for the day and bar staff will serve you poolside.

A lot of the bars come with the prerequisite “bar girls” which are common in Thailand, so if that’s not what you’re there for, you may have to politely decline a few come-ons before they get the hint and leave you alone.

You can find just about any type of watering hole you’re looking for on Khao San Road, from Irish Pubs, to McDonalds, street stands that serve up deep fried crickets, grasshoppers, cockroaches and other creepy crawlies (I was only brave enough to try the crickets) to lovely garden patio restaurants. I even stumbled across a nightclub that catered to the hardcore rap/hip-hop crowd on my last visit to Bangkok – something I didn’t expect to find there at all.

A popular spot is Gulliver’s Tavern, at the end of Khao San Road. Drinks here are a little on the pricey side, but there’s always good music, pool tables, and plenty of backpackers looking for some good conversation. It gets a little too noisy for that later on though, so you may want to switch venues if you’re not up for Thai whiskey shots and dancing.

Grand Palace
Adjoined by The Temple of the Emerald Buddha (also known as Wat Phra Kaew), The Grand Palace is a beautiful place to spend the day exploring some of Thailand’s rich culture and history.

Admission fees include entry into Wat Phra Kaew and Grand Palace, as well as the Royal Thai Decorations and Coins Pavillion. Much of the Grand Palace is inaccessible to the public, but occasional anterooms are available for viewing. Even with much of it closed off to the public; it’s still fairly easy to spend hours exploring the grounds and admiring the ornate buildings.

Of special note if you are planning a visit to Wat Phra Kaew; wats are sacred in Thailand, this one particularly so because of it’s proximity to royalty. Visitors must dress according to local custom when visiting Wat Phra Kaew. That is to say, no short sleeved shirts, short skirts or pants, and no flip-flops! Shoes must be removed before entering the temple. If you’ve spent some time in Thailand already, you’ll already be accustomed to the shoes piled up on the doorsteps to many of the temples, restaurants, guesthouses, and even bars. More so on the islands than in Bangkok, but it’s still custom in many parts of the city.

The wat structures themselves are extraordinarily ornate. Anyone with an eye for architecture and design can appreciate the gilded stupas, polished colorful roof tiles, and marble pediments set amongst mosaic pillars.

Be sure to stop here and admire the detailed, and beautiful, murals lining the inside walls of the compound, depicting scenes from the epic Ramakian fable. You don’t have to have an appreciation for art, or history for that matter to enjoy the stories told in picture along these walls.

Entrance fee is 350 baht and the grounds are open from 08:30 until 16:30. If you’re in Bangkok for an overnight stay, or even just for the day, this is a destination you should not miss while in the city.

Patpong (I and II)
Didn’t get enough of the “bar girl” scene on Khao San Road and the surrounding area? Head over to Patpong I and II. Two parallel side streets, located between Silom and Surawongse Roads, this seedy area will net you just about any sin you seek to commit. Don’t say you haven’t been warned.

Easily over one hundred strip bars crowd these busy streets and advertise all sorts of sexually acrobatic stage shows, not to mention “take-out” pole dancers and lady boys, if you’re willing to cough up the “bar fine.”

I took a wander through here with two pilots from Holland who were on layover for the night in Bangkok. They had heard the notorious reputation of Patpong, and were anxious to explore it for themselves. However they were a little nervous of its seedy reputation, and, absurdly, felt they would be safer bringing a female companion along with them. I guess they figured that the bar girls and their “employers” would be less likely to target them if they appeared as though they already had female company for the night. They couldn’t have been more wrong. The locals there just figured the three of us were up for a night of debauchery and approached us all the more. No matter, I was interested to see the place for myself, if not quite for the reasons the locals thought.

Strip bar touts lined the streets in front of each bar and approached us, sometimes two or three of them at a time, displaying menus of the flesh filled delights that could be purchased inside their establishments. I won’t fill you in on the exact details of the menus, but suffice it to say they included ping pongs, balloons, bananas, “electric” (what the hell did that mean?!) and various other items paired up with female body parts. I was so astounded by these little laminated menus they presented to us that I asked one tout if I could purchase it as a souvenir. He told me I could have it for free if I just came in for a show. He had me at “free.”

The show itself was fairly tame compared to what I had been expecting. Just your run of the mill strip bar that you could most likely find in any Canadian city. Items on the menu weren’t part of the show (thank God) and patrons wishing to purchase these were taken to a back room, where I’m pretty sure I can imagine what other sorts of things went on.

The drink prices were steep compared to other areas in Bangkok I’d visited, and the bar girls were relentless, approaching me to the point where the pilots from Holland were starting to feel a bit slighted, and suggested we head elsewhere. I don’t know if these women were used to other women coming in wishing to fulfill crazy fantasies, or they were just happy to have a woman in their midst, but they sure were friendly. Four or five surrounded me, wanting to “give me massage,” touching my sun-bleached hair and smiling non-stop at me. After a few minutes they realized I wasn’t there for anything other than a drink, and they sat down to practice their English on me. I left feeling very sad for these sweet girls, as I’m sure no little girl, given a choice in the matter, dreams of a life of stripping, and more, for hordes of sweaty, booze-soaked foreign tourists.

I had no desire to visit any more strip bars (and I still didn’t get the promised menu I had been offered) so we continued our exploration of Patpong, discovering that it was also home to a bustling night market and several decent live music venues. I happily sat down to a Sangsom and coke at Muzzik café and took in a great show by an up and coming local band. No hassle there either.

I’m told that Patpong is mainly show, and is preceded by its sleazy reputation, and that, if you’re seeking pleasures of the flesh, there are plenty more hardcore strip bars to visit in Bangkok, but Patpong was more than enough for me. With bar names like “Super Pussy”, “Pussy Collection,” and “Thigh Bar,” I’m not sure how anyone could really consider Patpong “tame.” But maybe that’s just my western mentality.

Floating Market
There are more than a few floating markets throughout Bangkok, some more authentic than others. In other words, some are geared more towards tourists, with far more commercial items than you’d find at some of the floating markets that sell household essentials, fresh fruits and vegetables, etc.

The most popular destination for tourists seems to be Damnoen Saduak, not actually in Bangkok, but in Samut Sangkhram Ratchaburi province, about 110 km southwest of Bangkok.

Yes, it is packed with hordes of tourists, but you’ll still get the authentic feel of a day out market shopping on the canal, while perhaps getting a bit of souvenir shopping done in the process. And it’s loads of fun.

The best way to do this is to book a tour to the floating market. There are more than enough tour companies to arrange this, or even your hotel or guesthouse would be happy to arrange this for you. Most tours include side trips to other points of interest on the way there or back.

Some great photo opportunities present themselves as you longtail it down the “khlong” or canal, stopping along the way to barter madly with Thai women, who are navigating through the chaos with goods stacked high upon their flat boats.

These ladies will disarm you with their sense of humor and snappy comebacks, and before you know it, you’ll be buying something you really didn’t come here to purchase. No matter though, the experience is worth the minimal cost. And you’ll get some amazing photos.

Some more photo opportunities present themselves in the side tours included in many of the Damnoen Saduak tours, such as a trip to the Bridge on The River Kwai, elephant trekking, or even river rafting. If you’re in Bangkok long enough to spare a half day for the floating market tour, it’s well worth it.

Chao Phraya River
I always recommend to fellow travelers that they make a point of viewing any given cityscape from the water, if the situation presents itself. This is particularly true of Bangkok. Getting out of the heat and noise of the city and viewing it from an idyllic setting on the water, with some traditional Thai music as background, you’ll get a completely different feel for the city, and see it in a whole new way.

As well as being a convenient way to navigate the city, a boat tour along the Chao Phraya River is a pleasant and peaceful way to spend a day or an evening. If you’ve had enough of the madness that goes along with Bangkok traffic, a Chao Phraya River tour or cruise is the way to go.

There are more than fifteen boat lines that operate along the canals and riverways of Bangkok; so it’s no trouble finding what you’re looking for, be it a simple mode of transportation, a scenic tour, or a guided dinner cruise.

Depending on which tour or cruise you decide to go with, you can expect to see plenty of historic sights and also have the opportunity to observe the traditional Thai way of life along the banks of the Chao Praya River. There are great photo opportunities during daylight hours of rustic Thai stilted homes along the banks.

Bang Pa-In; or the Royal Summer Palace is one of the stunning structures you can view along the banks, as well as Wat Yai Chaimongkon and Wat Mahathat.

Other popular sights include the famous Oriental Hotel, the Holy Rosary Church, and the Portugese Embassy; the oldest embassy in Bangkok.

Many of the hotels along the river offer free ferry service if you just want a quick (and free) tour of the river. There are plenty of floating restaurants on the water as well for a unique dining experience.

Visit a prisoner
For most, the thought of visiting a prisoner in Bangkok’s Bangkwang (Men’s Prison) or Bhan Khen (Women’s Prison) is a daunting undertaking. Don’t be put off by depictions of these prisons you may have seen in the movies or on television, however. Yes, the conditions are appalling, and yes, a lot of these prisoners are hardened criminals.

Quite often, in the film industry, the foreign prisoners in Thai prisons are portrayed as innocent backpackers who are lured in or set up unbeknownst to act as drug mules for Thai drug cartels. This is not generally the case. In most cases these people are simply young travelers or backpackers who’ve made a grievous error in judgment, whether it be indulging in the criminal element to the nightlife in Thailand, or an attempt to smuggle drugs across the border to neighboring countries or even back home. Stupid, yes. But not worth one hundred years in a Thai prison, or worse. Everyone makes mistakes in life, particularly in their younger years. Unfortunately, the Thai judicial system does not hand out too many second chances to young travelers guilty of making such a mistake.

Once you’ve gotten beyond this particular internal dilemma and made the decision to visit a prisoner at one of these prisons, you’ll probably be wondering how to go about doing this. It’s surprisingly uncomplicated. If there’s one thing to be said for a somewhat corrupt legal system, it’s the lack of red tape surrounding it.

Contact your embassy if you wish to visit a prisoner from your own country, as most people do. Your embassy will provide you with a list of prisoners that are waiting for contact from the outside world. Make sure to note which building the prisoner you wish to visit is housed in, as different buildings have different visiting days.

Bring all this information with you to the prison, along with the prisoner’s full name, as well as your passport, and register at the front gate. Allow the guards time to process your paperwork, usually about twenty minutes or so.

Upon entering the prison, you will go through a screening system and guards will inspect any gifts (such as books, toiletries, or food) you may be bringing in with you. Don’t get angry or frustrated if some of these items are confiscated as “contraband.” What is and isn’t allowed in seems to change on a daily basis and is entirely dependant on the particular guard you are dealing with. Arguing or getting angry will get you nowhere with them. In fact, you will most likely be denied entry in this case.

There is a shop at the prison as well where you may purchase items that are allowed as gifts for the prisoner.

You will be allowed to visit with the prisoner for approximately thirty minutes, talking by telephone through bulletproof glass, although guards sometimes allow a little leniency when it comes to the length of the visit.

Things to remember when you are visiting: you are not here to judge why this person ended up where they did; simply to listen, if necessary, or provide much longed for conversation to the prisoner. Much like airport security, jokes or derogatory comments about Thailand’s King, the Thai justice system, or prison escapes of any kind are not taken lightly.

Common sense dictates that you should dress appropriately for your visit, but you’d be surprised what some deem “appropriate.” Best to don long pants, closed toed shoes, and no tank tops.

Another thing to consider, if you haven’t already, is a visit to the women’s prison, or to a prisoner from a less advantaged country than your own. These prisoner’s have less rights and freedoms than many others, and visits to them are few and far between and therefore much appreciated.

No matter who you decide to visit, your presence there is accepted with much gratitude, and you may find that you walk away gaining just as much from the experience as the person you spend your time with there.

Jim Thompson’s House
Even if you’re not an architecture enthusiast, you can’t help but appreciate the beauty of The Jim Thompson House. It is a serene oasis in the midst of the city.

An American architect with a deep love for Thai history, architecture and culture, Jim Thompson arrived in Thailand during World War II and revived the flagging silk industry. His house, now a museum, is a tribute to authentic Thai residential architecture. Formed from parts of six teak Thai houses, it also showcases his extensive art collection.
Jim Thompson disappeared under mysterious circumstances in the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia in 1967.

In 1976 the James H W Thompson Foundation was established, with proceeds from the Jim Thompson House (as a tourist attraction) donated to Thai charities and to projects devoted to the preservation of Thailand’s cultural heritage.

The Jim Thompson House is located opposite the National Stadium, on Rama I Road in Bangkok. Open every day from 9 am, the last tour begins at 4:30 pm.

Dine Out
If Bangkok is your last stop on your way to some remote area of SE Asia, you might want to take advantage of the gastronomical delights this city has to offer. It might be your last chance for some fine, sit-down (on chairs, rather than cushions strewn on the floor) dining in a long, long time.

Bangkok has everything from street cart vendors to five star poolside restaurants atop luxury skyscrapers, with spectacular views of the city.

One such restaurant is Zense Restaurant at CentralWorld. No pool here, but there are several water features throughout this spacious rooftop restaurant, designed by award winning Thai architect, Amata Lhupaiboon. But the décor is just the beginning. The eclectic menu choices and five star service here are simply superb.

Riverside dining, or even dinner cruises, on the Chao Phraya River, are another way to beat the heat of the city, if you’re not up for some rooftop dining. There are plenty to choose from, and it’s hard to go wrong. It’s the perfect locale for a romantic dinner for two, a night on your own with a glass of wine and a book, or an evening out with fellow travelers.

One renowned restaurant on the Chao Phraya River is Angelini at the Shangri-La. Three stories high, with massive windows soaring up from the floor, Angelini is set in an amazing location overlooking the Chao Phraya River. A contemporary menu that leans heavily toward Italian choices, the only thing competing with your choice of food is the selection of fine wines.

Other areas worth checking out are Chinatown, Bangkrak, and Silom. Chinatown is the obvious choice for Chinese cuisine, Bangkrak for their numerous Indian restaurants, and Silom for the fine dining, which tends to run a little on the pricier side. But hey, no reason why you shouldn’t splurge while in Bangkok.

Khao San Road is a great place for new arrivals to Bangkok to dip their toes into the culinary waters of Thailand. If you’re a little leery at first of the streetside carts serving up Pad Thai, or even more frightening – deep fried insects (!), you can ease your way in with an Irish pub, Chinese restaurant, or sausage butty at one of the restaurants catering to the hordes of Brits roaming Khao San Road. After a few Sangsom and cokes maybe you’ll feel brave enough to try the local fare. And you should, because Thailand serves up some delicious food.

National Museum
While in Bangkok waiting to catch an early morning bus to Cambodia the next day, I found myself with several hours to kill and decided to take a wander over to the National Museum. I had not been expecting much, simply because I hadn’t heard a lot about the museum and because it wasn’t on my “List of Things to See in Bangkok.” I was, however, pleasantly surprised by the extensive collection of both history and art housed here.

Its collection spans thousands of years and includes informative exhibits on the history and origin of Thais, as well as early civilizations of the region.

The museum is home to several sculptures and exhibits dating as far back as 1257 AD and also includes restored private residences of former Thai royalty. It’s easy to lose a few hours here admiring the ancient artwork.

Tours are given in French and English on Wednesdays and Thursdays, starting at 9:30 am, or you can pay the 50 baht entrance fee and stroll through at your own pace.
Unfortunately, photographs are not allowed inside the museum, but the buildings housing it are quite beautiful and worth getting a few shots of.

Stock Up!
Most areas of Thailand, even the most remote, will have some sort of convenience shop or drugstore which will carry anything you need to get by. However, brands can be completely unrecognizable and perhaps not what you’re used to.

Myself, I like to use whatever local products that are at hand, makes me feel like I’ve immersed myself a little bit more into the culture. But if you’re in need of particular skin care products or toiletries due to allergies or sensitive skin or maybe just personal preference; then it’s a good idea to stock up while you’re in Bangkok.

Both Tesco and Boots have outlets in Bangkok which are easily found and should stock whatever particular brand of shampoo, skin cream, sunscreen, etc that you’re particular to.

Bangkok is also a great place to replace damaged rucksacks or luggage, or purchase an extra one if you’ve gone a little overboard on your souvenir shopping.

After hitting a few islands in Thailand, I had discovered that I was packing unnecessary items, such as trainers, one too many hoodies, and socks. I tossed the socks and sold the trainers and hoodie on Khao San Road, using the paltry fee I earned to purchase some more useful items, such as flip-flops (sixty cents CDN!), Thai fisher pants (most comfortable pants on the planet), and other light, loose items of clothing.

Any market in Bangkok, including streetside stands on Khao San Road will be selling burnt CD’s of the latest artists. I found that most of these hadn’t even been released in North America yet. Same for the newest movies out on DVD. Most everyone travels with an iPod these days, but if you’re still a CD collector, this is probably one of the cheaper spots to stock up for the trip.

Another item I would recommend replenishing your supply of here is books. There are book traders all over SE Asia, but when in remote areas the pickings can get pretty slim, and there’s nothing worse than being stuck on an overnight train ride with a crap book. Books here tend to also be substantially less expensive than a lot of the islands.

If you’ve got a lot of emailing to catch up on before you head to your destination, you should probably do that in Bangkok as well. You’ll be hard pressed to find anywhere in SE Asia that doesn’t have internet access, but the snail’s pace of it will drive you absolutely crazy on some of the islands – not to mention the price. One island I stayed on in Malaysia told me that their internet access was via radio signal. Not really sure how that would work, but it was intensely frustrating trying to send out a family Easter email only to have it deleted after half an hour spent trying to log in.

Any flights, trains, buses or boat trips you may want to prearrange can be booked in Bangkok as well. I’ve never met more helpful and knowledgeable travel agents than some of the ones I met in Bangkok. Most of them knew what I was trying to book before even I did!

Whew! Now that I look back on all that, I’m glad I didn’t try to fit it all into one day! But you’re welcome to try. Keep in mind that if you’re traveling around Thailand for any length of time, odds are good that you’ll make it back to Bangkok a few times to catch a bus, train or flight to your next destination. So, try and remember; small sips. Bangkok is best tasted in small sips. Perhaps the same advice should be dispensed with the Thai whiskey.

5 Road Trips Within a Day’s Drive of Vancouver

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There’s nothing quite like loading up your iPod with some good road tripping tunes, gassing up the car, and hitting the open road on a sunny day. BC has some beautiful, well-maintained highways to do just that on. But if you only have a day or two to spare, or you just aren’t into hours and hours on the road, here are some easily accessible spots to check out – all within a day’s drive from Vancouver

Manning Park
Just three hours drive from the city of Vancouver, Manning Park is worth the journey in both the summer and winter months.

If you head up in the winter, enjoy more than 140 acres of ski and snowboard terrain in an uncrowded setting with spectacular views.

Summer months provide gorgeous hiking trails set amongst sub alpine meadows ablaze with colorful wildflowers. Some great photo-ops here, including the wildlife. Visitors can’t resist taking photos of the very nearly tame ground squirrels that have somewhat overtaken the day use area in front of the lodge. Try and remember that you’re not doing the wildlife here any favors by feeding them, and they do quite well on their own in the wild.

Other wildlife commonly spotted in the vast forest off the highway include deer, elk, black and brown bear.

If you’ve got a night or two to spare, Manning Park has chalets, cabins, and a cozy lodge available (complete with pub and restaurant), as well as four campgrounds to choose from.

If you’re camping in the picturesque Lightning Lake campground, rowboats and canoes are available for rental, so pack up a picnic lunch from the store at the lodge and spend the day out on the lake wildlife spotting and exploring the surrounding forest.

The Okanagan Valley
Approximately a five hour drive from Vancouver (depending on where in the Okanagan you’re headed) lies the sun-drenched Okanagan Valley.

An abundance of lakes, ski resorts, vineyards, deserts, waterfalls, and golf courses means that the Okanagan, quite literally, has whatever you’re looking for.

If you’re there for the winter sports; you have your pick of six different ski resorts to choose from; Big White in Kelowna, Silverstar in Vernon, Apex in Penticton, Sun Peaks in Kamloops, Mt Baldy in Oliver, or Crystal Mountain in Westbank. All have accommodations on or near the mountain, with all the amenities you’ll need. Any one of these mountains will bring spectacular views, ski-goggle suntan lines, and the Okanagan’s famous champagne powder.

Summer in the Okanagan brings hot, dry temperatures and sometimes weeks without a cloud in the sky. Take advantage of this in one of the multitude of lakeside resorts, campgrounds, or B&B’s. Boats and jet-ski’s are available for rental at many of the resorts and beaches, so if you haven’t tried waterskiing before, there’s no time like the present.
Another favorite activity of visitors to the Okanagan Valley is houseboating. With plenty of companies to choose from, they’ll give you a quick operator’s course and off you go for a week of fun in the sun.

There are loads of secluded beaches tucked amongst the shorelines of the Okanagan’s many lakes, perfect for entire days spent at the water’s edge with the family, or a romantic moonlit night with someone special.

The Okanagan plays host to some of the most prestigious golf courses in BC. Predator Ridge, in particular, on the outskirts of Vernon is one of the more demanding courses and draws professional golfers from all over the world. But that doesn’t mean novice golfers can’t find a course to suit their ability.

A great way to spend the day, or even a weekend, is touring some of the Okanagan’s famous vineyards. With views and selection rivaling that of Napa Valley, the Okanagan is definitely making a name for itself in the wine industry.

Whistler
Two hours drive from Vancouver, on one of the most scenic drives in North America; the world-famous Whistler Blackcomb Mountains attract visitors all year round.

The sea to sky highway up to Whistler is half the reason for the journey itself. If you’ve got the time to spare, stop along the way to take in some of the sights it has to offer. Stop for fish and chips and watch the ferries come in at Horseshoe Bay, check out the BC Museum of Mining at Brittania Beach, hike the Shannon Falls, watch climbers scale The Chief right before Squamish, go bald eagle watching in Brackendale, stop for a dip in picturesque Alice Lake, or grab a coffee in Function Junction. And that’s all before you even reach Whistler.

If you’re in Whistler for the winter sports, try out the new Peak to Peak Gondola. Spanning the distance between Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains, the awe-inspiring view is made all that much more spectacular by the glass-bottomed gondolas that are available at no extra charge.

Summer in Whistler will keep visitors just as busy as the winter months. Bear sightings are common between May and October so be sure to bring your camera.
Mountain runs are just as busy in the summer, with thrill seeking trail riders on their mountain bikes. Explore 4946 feet of lift accessible trails, ranging from novice to extreme.

Zip-trekking is also popular during the summer months in Whistler.

Alpha Lake, Lost Lake, and Alta Lake are popular destinations for locals and visitors alike. Grab the dog, a Frisbee, and a case of cold local microbrews and spend the day just chilling. Odds are good that some locals will provide the guitar or drumbeats for background music.

If you’re up for some pretty crazy night life, Whistler’s more than happy to supply it. From a relaxed evening spent people watching on one of the many heated patios, to insane house music spun by DJ’s from all over the world, to anything in between, Whistler’s got it.

There are world class dining options to choose from or just casual local fare, depending on your mood, or budget. No one said Whistler was cheap.

It is still possible to find affordable accommodations in Whistler however, and if you check out whistler.com you can probably find something in your price range. Your best bet is to phone the main reservation line (1-800-Whistler) and speak with one of their amazingly helpful operators, who are also Whistler locals, to help you find exactly what you’re looking for. I’ve used their services several times myself, and it doesn’t matter how specific you are - if they have it, they will find it for you.

Mount Baker
Look South from Vancouver on a clear day and it’s hard to miss the imposing, majestic sight that is Mount Baker. Just an hour and a half drive from Vancouver (depending on border traffic) brings you to this rustic locale for some fantastic, laid back skiing and snowboarding.

There are no accommodations on the mountain itself, which helps to maintain the natural setting, so it’s a good idea to get online ahead of time and find yourself some lodging. There are two small towns on the way to Mount Baker that provide several chalets, cabins, or even houses for rental, at very reasonable rates.

The closest is the town of Glacier, which has loads of small town charm. Stop into Graham’s pub style restaurant (children are welcome, but it can get pretty lively later in the evening) and enjoy talented local musicians performing live in this tiny venue. And be sure to try their amazing fish tacos.

Wake n’ Bakery is great for coffee and a muffin for the drive up the mountain.
Milano’s Italian restaurant across the street from Graham’s is probably one of the better Italian restaurants you’ll have the opportunity to visit. Without the snooty, high end service. Locals in the town of Glacier are warm, welcoming, and ready to impart any local history to curious visitors.

Maple Falls, a little closer to the border, is a tiny bit bigger than Glacier, but not much. There are a few more dining options to choose from here, and all are just as friendly as those in Glacier.

Joowana’s restaurant in Maple Falls hosts all day outdoor music festivals in their “back yard” during summer months. Grab a seat on a log next to the bonfire, order up some BBQ, and enjoy.

Mountain Man coffee shop and Harvest Moon Bakery serve up hearty breakfasts for boarders and skiers on their way up the mountain.

If you want to explore the area a bit and try something different, drive towards Bellingham and stop at the North Fork Beer Shrine for some of the best pizza you will ever have. Just ask anyone who’s been there. North Fork Beer Shrine brews up some delicious microbrew beers, serves up hand-tossed pizza with an eclectic selection of toppings, and doubles as a wedding chapel! Check it out. If you’re looking for somewhere funky and unusual to host your wedding, North Fork Beer Shrine is it. They also have a lovely back garden to hoist a pint in when the weather’s warm.

One more restaurant I’ll mention, which is a little further along the road, but not to be missed, is Il Caffé Rifugio. This cozy family run Italian café serves fantastic homemade menu items (try their eggs benny served on potato pancakes) along with pleasant conversation with owner Richard, who also cooks, serves and whips up tasty Mexican hot chocolates for patrons.

If you’re headed to the Mount Baker area during summer months, there are plenty of places to set up camp.

Silver Lake, near Maple Falls has great campsites or rustic lakeside cabins to choose from, and never seems to get too overcrowded. Motorboats are not allowed on the lake, which is a blessing; but rowboats are available for rental and make for a pleasant day in the sun. Grab some sandwiches from the deli counter at Maple Fuels, an icy bottle of Red Barn Cider, and you’re good to go.

The Nooksak River Casino, in Deming (on the way to Bellingham) hosts fabulous outdoor music festivals during the summer. Check the dates online for blues, classic rock, or jazz festivals and bring your lawn chair. Tents are set up to keep hungry music fans satisfied. Quite often local First Nations will run the food stands and you’ll have the opportunity to try some of their traditional dishes, usually running about three to five dollars a plate! Great value. Don’t worry, they also have a beer garden, if you’re so inclined.

Vancouver Island
Just a short ferry ride away from Vancouver (just shy of two hours if you’re heading out from Horseshoe Bay to Nanaimo), Vancouver Island is home to countless attractions that are well worth the very enjoyable trip over.

While much cheaper to ferry over as a foot passenger, if you’re planning to explore the island a bit, you might want to consider bringing your car across with you.
Nanaimo is home to a multitude of parks, beaches, hiking trails and great seafood restaurants along the waterfront. Fishing, kayaking and canoeing are all very popular here.

Visit the city of Victoria and at times you’ll feel as though you’ve somehow arrived in England. Double Decker bus tours, high tea at The Empress hotel, and horse-drawn carriages complete this illusion. Victoria is one of the prettiest harbor-front cities in North America and locals take great pride in maintaining this beautiful city. First Nations also hold a strong presence here and it’s a great place to purchase genuine First Nations artwork.

The small town of Chemainus remains a big draw to artists from around the globe. The majority of buildings here are painted with detailed murals, turning the town into a large outdoor gallery for visitors to enjoy. It’s also a great spot to go antiquing and art gallery hopping.

The fishing village of Tofino is rapidly becoming a destination for surfers from around the world; or at least those who appreciate the laid back, nature loving lifestyle of Tofino. It is also home to some of the largest, untouched rainforest on the Pacific Rim. There are quite a few tour companies that offer eco-friendly off-road tours of the rainforest.
Long Beach is where you’ll find the surf-worthy waves, and the dedicated surfers that hit them almost year round. If you’re not up for lessons, it’s still a great place to spend the day just watching the surfers do their thing.

Tofino is also a great location for storm watching, and there’s plenty of cozy accommodations where you can bundle up with a glass of wine, sit indoors and watch the storms roll in.

There are several well maintained campgrounds in Tofino, located just off or near the beaches, but the weather here can be rather unpredictable, so bring your tarps!
These are just a few of the communities on Vancouver Island. You could easily spend weeks exploring the island, and should! Most waterfront communities on the island have whale watching tour companies as well as sport fishing tours. You can choose from a half day on the water to an entire week, if you desire.

If you’ve got the time to spare, just one of these road trips could easily lead you down a very pleasant, week long detour; but if you only have the one day, then all are an enjoyable, easy drive from the city of Vancouver.

I hope you enjoy visiting these places as much as I did, and still do. Now throw on some sunnies, load up the iPod, and hit the road!

Christmas in New York City

2010-04-24T08:31:00.000-07:00

We’ve all seen Miracle on 34th Street. New York City lit up like a Christmas tree, good cheer everywhere, Macy’s window displays. What could be more Christmas than New York City on Christmas Eve? So I decided, a couple of Christmases ago, to surprise my husband with a last minute getaway to the Big Apple. (Did I really just use the word Christmas four – no – five times?)

We were scheduled to fly in on December 20th, leaving on Christmas Eve, just in time to arrive back home to spend the big day with family and friends. Didn’t quite work out that way; our flight was delayed by 8 hours, so we spent much of Christmas Eve at JFK airport, and then our connecting flight at Chicago O’Hare was canceled due to a white-out blizzard, so we booked the last room available at the Airport Hilton and spent the night there. Still one of the best Christmases I can remember. Since we had such a fabulous time, I’ve put together our itinerary, of sorts, for you and your loved ones to make the most of your holiday trip to the Big Apple.

We touched the ground at JFK with fingers crossed, hoping to be greeted by a blanket of snow covering the city. No such luck. It was cold, grey and windy. What little snow there was drifted across the tarmac in little swirls. No matter, we were there! We hopped a cab into Manhattan, where we had booked ourselves into the Paramount Hotel, walking distance from Times Square. I’m always leery about online bookings when it comes to cities I’ve never visited before; it’s a bit like a lottery, waiting to see what sort of lodgings you’re going to end up in. Part of the excitement, I think. We lucked out with the Paramount. We entered the funky little boutique hotel, lobby decked out with a giant tree and all the garland you could ask for. Classic Christmas carols drifted from the speakers as visitors and bellhops alike bustled through the lobby, arms loaded with suitcases overstuffed with Christmas shopping to bring home to their families.

On a recent trip to New York, my husband and I stopped by the Paramount to have a drink in their bar (one of my husband’s favorites) and were disappointed to see that the hotel had recently undergone renovations. Don’t get me wrong, it looks fantastic now, but we had fallen in love with the classic New York look of the place when we first visited. Still, I suppose a Times Square hotel must update now and then if they wish to remain competitive. I just wish they had kept the brocaded red velvet chair with the snarling Rottweiler motif in the lobby. Sigh.

We spent the first night there searching out (and finding) what we considered to be a typical New York all night diner. Bar stools at the counter, pie under a glass dome, and windows fogged with grease, this little joint in Hell’s Kitchen was exactly what we sought. I’d tell you the name, but sadly, I didn’t write it down. Don’t worry though, there’s plenty just like it to be found, if a greasy spoon diner is what you’re looking for. After wolfing down a couple of pastramis on rye and cold cokes to wash them down , we went in search of a little Irish snug to have a pint, an Irish coffee, and do some people watching. No problem finding that either. If there’s one thing New York is not lacking in, it’s Irish pubs.

After hitting a few pubs, we stopped at our hotel bar for a nightcap, which turned into several because of the cool ambience of the place. Dim lighting, low tables, big, comfy plush leather chairs and a DJ spinning house tracks kept us there for a martini or four. I sincerely hope that the bar there wasn’t part of the revamping of the hotel, but I think it was.

We woke up the next morning feeling energized and ready to explore this great city. What to do first? Well, every large tourist hub seems to have an abundance of hop-on, hop-off bus tours. New York City is no exception to this rule. Just a quick walk over to Times Square from the hotel and we found what we were looking for. If you’re ever in any big city and feeling a little overwhelmed by your options, I always recommend starting with a two day pass on the bus tours. Preferably the open-topped buses so you can get a 360 degree view as you move through the city. This allows you the option to pick and choose which stops you want to get off and explore without all the walking that usually goes along with it. And if you miss something on the first day, a two day pass will allow you to come back and visit that spot.

Bundled up warm, we picked our seats on the bus. It was a chilly, clear day in the city and we had the entire top deck to ourselves. Perfect. Our tour guide/comedian kept us entertained and informed for much of the ride. Pointing out all the sights and filling us in on local knowledge, he occasionally requested the driver pull up close to other bus tours so he could chat up the female tour guides and pass them his number. The tour took us through the Theatre District, Times Square, down Broadway, through SoHo, Little Italy, Chinatown, down to Battery Park, past Liberty Island, Ground Zero, under the Brooklyn Bridge, past the UN Building, through a lovely tour of some gorgeous brownstone mansions, past Central Park, Rockefeller Center, and back into Midtown Manhattan.

We decided that day to disembark at Battery Park to take the ferry over and visit the Statue of Liberty. Standing in the line, which moved remarkably quickly, we were entertained by a dreadlocked street performer playing steel drum. After some quick photo-ops (it was cold and windy along the water!) and a hot chocolate, we ferried back over to Manhattan. We wandered along the waterfront a bit and admired some of the buildings and sculptures along the way.

Hopping back on the next bus that came along we decided to jump off near Empire State Building and do a bit of a walking tour from there, stopping of course at the Heartland Brew Pub at the base of Empire State for a pint and a pub lunch before ascending to the viewing deck.

After admiring the spectacular city views we did a walking tour through the Flatiron District, over to Macy’s to check out their Christmas window displays, which always draw a large crowd, stopped in to Macy’s for some shopping, of course, and then some shoe shopping on 5th Ave!

Our plan for that evening was to hit a Broadway show. Because it was Christmas, I wanted to see the Nutcracker Suite as performed by the New York City Ballet, but my husband had his heart set on the long running favorite, Phantom of the Opera. Since it was technically his trip, we decided on Phantom. We went to Times Square to purchase some discount tickets (big orange signs that say TKTS, right in the middle of Times Square – can’t miss it), stood in the incredibly long line-up that moved remarkably quickly, and we were on our way.

Housed in the gorgeous Majestic Theatre, which was originally built in 1927, Phantom seems right at home in this wonderfully maintained musical house. I was glad that we had gone with my husband’s pick.

If you’re planning on dining out before the show, arrive early or book ahead. We gave ourselves two hours for dinner before the show, thinking that would be more than enough, as the Italian restaurant we chose was very nearly across the street from The Majestic. It was incredibly packed with theatre patrons who’d had the same idea. Service was rushed, although pleasant, and food was slow. We had to remind our server a couple of times that we had a show to catch, but stopped when the manager came out and began berating the poor fellow right in front of us. The manager retrieved our dinners himself and we quickly saw why the server couldn’t bring it out when we asked. My chicken was practically raw. I shrugged, ate the salad and veggies around it, tipped the waiter generously (it wasn’t his fault) and rushed off to the show.

After the show, which we thoroughly enjoyed, we were still hungry (obviously) and chanced upon an open pizza joint right next door to our hotel. This became a regular stop for us on our way up to the room every night. Nothing like a slice of New York style pizza after a night on the town.

The next day our plan was to hit Rockefeller Centre, Central Park, and yes, more shopping! We hit the buffet breakfast at our hotel, which was fabulous, if a little on the pricey side, and then hit the streets to do some wandering around and photo-taking before heading off to our destination.

We absolutely loved the “New York-sized” Christmas decorations everywhere. Giant nutcracker dolls, giant trees, giant ornaments everywhere. Who cares if there was no snow; it still gave you that warm, fuzzy feeling.

We got to Rockefeller Center hoping to do some ice-skating on the rink there, but were put off by the tiny ice rink and the massive line-up of people waiting to get on it and skate in a tiny circle, along with hundreds of other people. So we took some pictures of the famous Christmas Tree there instead, along with the many other sights, and started off for Central Park. We hadn’t realized that Central Park also had an outdoor skating rink that was much larger with less than half the line-up. We spent a good couple of hours there, skating (badly) around, drinking hot chocolate, and listening to Bing Crosby from the loudspeakers singing of good cheer and white Christmases. Best. Day. Ever. Just don’t skate in the wrong direction. I’ve never seen so many small children get yelled at before by the “rink police.”

What else is there to do when in Central Park (besides ice skating) than take a horse-drawn carriage ride through the park. Of course we did just that. The movies always show two characters, cuddled together under a blanket, riding through the park for what seems like hours, while the driver (Is that what you call them?) discreetly pretends not to notice their undying declarations of love going on behind him. This was not our experience. I believe it was twenty minutes, the duration of which was spent (by me) listening to my husband and the driver discuss English premier league football.

After quite possibly the least romantic horse and carriage ride ever, we wandered back to Rockefeller Center, shopping a bit along the way of course, and found a little wine bar, grabbed a bench seat at the window, and sat down to warm up and indulge in some fine reds. Morrell’s Wine Bar at Rockefeller Plaza has an amazing selection, great view of the plaza, and choice menu items. You can’t go wrong. We returned there on our next trip to New York and were happy to discover that they hadn’t changed a single thing about it.

Possibly a few too many reds later, we thought it was time to retire to our room. On the way back we spotted a cycle rickshaw and thought maybe we should relive our horse and carriage ride from earlier, since it went so well. Silly us, we didn’t negotiate a price per distance before jumping in and had to shell out 30 bucks for a measly block and a half ride. Totally not worth the price. But, he did, conveniently, drop us in front of Rosie O’Grady’s Irish Pub, so, of course, once we were standing in front of the doors, the logic became, “Why not?” Great pub, great atmosphere!

Quick slice on the way up to the room after the pub, and we were done for the night.

We devoted the next day specifically to shopping, making time to stop for lunch and dinner and several pubs in between. Alright, so maybe we didn’t get a whole lot of shopping done. But we did find an amazing Beatles memorabilia collection housed in the Hard Rock Café on Broadway. Normally I try to avoid giant chain restaurants like this one and hit up more funky local haunts, but I’d heard rumor of their Beatles collection, and I wasn’t disappointed. George Harrison’s guitar, a touching shrine to John Lennon and the original doors from the Beatles Abbey Road Studio (that you can actually touch) gave this Beatles fanatic her fix. The only thing I didn’t manage to squeeze in on this trip, which I was dying to, was a trip over to the Dakota (John Lennon’s former home and the sight of his assassination) across from Central Park, and the memorial to him in Central Park. But I managed to get there on my next visit, so that’s okay.

Roaming around looking for a nice place for dinner that night, we happened across Ellen’s Stardust Diner on Broadway. Why hadn’t I heard of this place before? With singing waitstaff (most of them are aspiring broadway actors/singers), simple 50’s style fare, and an audience participation type atmosphere, this was a great place to end up our trip before leaving the next day. Staff dance along the back of your booths, singing 50’s, 60’s and 70’s hits, throwing in plenty of comic relief and encouraging audience/patrons to dance and sing along. They also did a smashing version of Rockin’ Around the Christmas Tree.

Another great restaurant to check out if you’re in New York is Island Burgers in Hell’s Kitchen. We didn’t get there on this trip, but my brother and his wife steered us there on our next trip to NYC. It’s a tiny little surfer themed restaurant (hence the name) that boasts the best burgers and shakes in Hell’s Kitchen. They don’t lie. It was fantastic. Find them on 9th Ave and enjoy!

The next day was our last day there. We took one last walk through Times Square to do some last minute souvenir shopping, had one more slice of pizza and then it was time to cab it to JFK for our soon to be discovered debacle at the airport. While in the cab, trying to figure out the mystery of just why NewYork cab drivers are continuously honking their horns at seemingly nothing, we reflected on our trip there and decided another trip to New York was definitely in order.

There’s so much more to see and do in New York City. But that’s the great thing; it’s only a plane ride away, so you can go back as often as you like, to explore and enjoy. Now I get why everyone has those I heart New York t-shirts. In fact, I’m wearing mine right now.

6 Islands You Should Visit in Thailand, and Why.

2010-04-12T10:10:00.001-07:00

Thailand is home to some of the most beautiful islands in the world. Lush jungles, elephants roaming in their natural habitats, crystal clear waters with some of the best diving in Southeast Asia, they’re a tropical paradise in an exotic Asian setting. From the rustic and natural to the downright hedonistic, there’s an island for whatever kind of beach holiday you’re looking for.
Here are just six islands I had the opportunity to visit while in Thailand, each one more different than the last, and, if you have the chance, I recommend you spend some time on each of these lovely island paradises.

Ko Pha Ngan
World renowned for it’s Full Moon Party (and Half-Moon, and Quarter Moon, and Day-After Full Moon, and so on), Ko Pha Ngan has made a name for itself just by inventing reasons to host a party. And what a party it is. Backpackers stream in from all over the world in the week leading up to the Full Moon. Finding lodging during this time can be extremely challenging, so if you’re planning on attending the Full Moon Party, it’s a good idea to get online and find a bungalow or guest house to suit your needs. The party itself is held on Hat Rin Beach, so if you want to be in walking, or stumbling distance, it’s best to book something in this area. However, bungalows right on the beach tend to be incredibly noisy and prone to break-ins. Finding a bungalow off the main beach or even on other, quieter areas of the island is ideal. Guesthouses and bungalows all over the island are more than happy to arrange transportation to and from the party for you, no matter the time of day or night.
Rental scooters and motorcycles are also available in Thong Sala at very reasonable rates (your guesthouse will arrange a rental for you if you don’t want to journey into Thong Sala), but it’s not a great idea to count on this for transport home from the Full Moon Party, even if you’re not indulging in buckets of Thai whiskey and Red Bull, or the veritable buffet of marijuana, MDMA, mushrooms or ecstasy available at the party. The roads from Hat Rin are in sore need of repair, and it’s mainly the other drivers returning from the party that are cause for worry.

Sunset Bungalows on the west side of the island offers clean, inexpensive huts built into the hillside overlooking the ocean. All bungalows here provide hammocks strung from each ocean view balcony to assist you in your colossal Full Moon Party come down.
But the Full Moon Party isn’t the only draw for Ko Pha Ngan. It’s also home to some fairly respectable diving, excellent hikes through the jungle, and even a temple or two to explore.

There’s no airport on Ko Pha Ngan, so the best route for a backpacker on a budget is to take the night train from Bangkok to Surat Thani (request a sleeper bunk, the price difference is minimal and it’s worth it) and then ferry over from there.

Ko Samui
If you can look past the beach bars, the varying types of insanely loud music competing with the neighboring bar stereos, and the giggling, overly- friendly “bar girls” of Ko Samui, then you just may find that this island has a lot more to offer than it’s reputation claims.

After spending three weeks on Ko Pha Ngan, I was spoiled by the extremely affordable lodgings, meals, and transportation. Ko Samui was a bit of a rude awakening, to say the least. Luckily I was traveling with a friend at that particular point and we were able to cut costs by sharing a run-down bungalow with two beds off the beach. I wish I’d known how friendly he’d gotten with one of the bar girls prior to my arrival, however, as she continuously showed up at 3am demanding to know who I was and what I was doing there. No amount of explaining that we were just friends was going to convince her that I wasn’t her latest replacement. After a few nights of this, I genuinely began to fear for my safety and suggested that maybe it was time we move on to another island.
But never mind the bar girls. If you’re not there looking for them, they’re easy enough to avoid. There’s plenty else to do on Ko Samui.

Hike to the Hin Lat or Na Muang Falls if you’re up for a bit of a walk.
Take a guided kayak trip in Ang Thong National Marine Park, where you can explore caves, snorkel, or just relax on the white sand beaches of the hidden lagoons.
Muay Thai matches are also regular events on Samui, and the entrance fee is small.

Ko Chang
Thai for Elephant Island, Ko Chang is appropriately named. If you’d prefer not to make the long journey north to arrange your elephant trekking from Chiang Mai, Ko Chang is the place to go.

Like something reminiscent of Jurassic Park, Ko Chang’s lush rainforest jungles and steep cliffs rising from the surrounding ocean are stunning to behold as you arrive by longtail boat or ferry from the mainland.

I arrived in Ko Chang after a bit of a long haul through Cambodia, and was in desperate need of some hammock time. After doing a bit of elephant trekking, snorkeling, and kayaking around Ko Chang, I broke out the hammock and the book and settled right in for some chill time. I didn’t realize just how relaxed I had become when I went to search for my flip-flops to head off the beach for a change and maybe do some shopping. I had lost my flip-flops. Two weeks prior. And I hadn’t even noticed. It was clearly time to depart from my little stretch of beach!

I spent much of my time on Ko Chang at Nature Beach Bungalows, on Lonely Beach, which was within walking distance to many of the restaurants along the beach. The Treehouse Restaurant is one of the favorites among backpackers, with a large “treehouse” wooden deck overhanging the ocean. Pillows are strewn about on the deck for maximum lounging comfort amongst the low tables. Most restaurants along the beach serve amazing nightly BBQ buffets of fresh caught fish, thai salads, rice and BBQ’d corn on the cob.

After sunset you can settle in on a beach mat with a bucket of SangSom (Thai whiskey) and watch the firedancers spin their poi and listen to drum and bass, reggae, or jungle beats until 4 am, if you’re so inclined. Just be sure to request a bungalow a little off the beach if that’s not your thing, because the music gets louder as the night progresses.
If you’ve had enough of the chill-out scene, head over to White Sand Beach, slightly more populated and easier to find supplies for your travels. Bamboo Bungalows offer clean, comfy lodgings right on the beach.

Ko Phi Phi
Famed for its clear waters and sand like flour, you’ll see when you arrive why they chose this locale to film the backpacker cult hit The Beach.

Ko Phi Phi offers up some spectacular diving and snorkeling. Or perfect little secluded bays to just crack a good book and worship the sun. Longtail boats are available to taxi you wherever on the island you wish to go.

Lodgings on Ko Phi Phi range from downright luxurious to seriously budget. I was lucky enough to meet up with some friends from Italy who were on a short beach holiday and were more than willing to share their air conditioned (!!!) bungalow at Natural Resort with me. It had been a long time since I’d experienced more than a squat toilet, fan, and a hammock so this seemed like heaven on earth to me. The only problem I encountered was the secluded location of the resort. Located on the tip of the island with no roads in or out, I had to book a water taxi for any excursion. But if you’re looking for a peaceful, quiet getaway with plenty of opportunities for water sports, Natural Resort is the place to be. Unfortunately, my friends weren’t staying long, so I had to water taxi back to mid-island and find myself some cheaper digs. Chong Khao Bungalows had just what I needed. Cheap, clean, and centrally located, it was the perfect place to restock my dwindling book supply, book some day trips off island, and meet some fellow backpackers at the bars and restaurants nearby.

Ko Tao
Known to many underwater enthusiasts as The place to dive in Thailand, Ko Tao is the perfect spot for novice divers to acquire their PADI certificate.

High season on Ko Tao can get pretty crowded, so if you’re not planning on doing any diving, your odds of finding a place to stay can get pretty slim. Most resorts have divemasters living and working full time for them, and the push to sign up for a dive course or dive holiday can get pretty aggressive. Thankfully, that was just what I was there to do, so I had no problem finding lodging. I signed up with Crystal Dive Resort for a five night stay – the duration it would take to acquire my PADI certificate. If you’re buying a dive package, the accommodation comes pretty much included, if you compare the cost of getting your PADI certificate to other countries. I was happy to stay in a large, tile-floored, air conditioned bungalow with private, western style toilet just a short walk from the beach. I had been traveling so long that I’d forgotten what it was like to be up at the crack of dawn everyday hitting the books before diving though.

After finishing my PADI course I stuck around to do some more diving and just soak up the vibe of the island, as it was nearing Full Moon and I wanted to spend it in a more chilled out atmosphere than nearby Ko Pha Ngan.

I moved to SB (I think it stood for Sandy Beach) Bungalows further along the island, but still on the beach. Sigh. Back to squat toilets and no air conditioning. I had thought it would be a little more mellow on Ko Tao for Full Moon, but was surprised to see the same ravers busting out the ‘shroom shakes, ecstasy tablets and giant spliffs that accompany the Full Moon on Ko Pha Ngan. Still, the crowd was much smaller than the usual 8,000-10,000 you can get up to on Ko Pha Ngan, so, a little less crazy.

Ko Samet
Ko Samet was kind of a stopover for me in order to avoid spending New Year’s Eve either on a bus to Cambodia or in Bangkok, so I wasn’t really sure what to expect since I hadn’t researched it all that much before arriving.

I was pleasantly surprised to find pristine, sandy beaches, great restaurants and a clean, quiet atmosphere to lay low in for a few days.

Ko Samet is a popular destination for Thai Nationals, so, being New Year’s Eve, it was quite crowded by the time I’d arrived and finding lodging was a tad on the difficult side. Locals had also jacked their prices up accordingly, thereby adding to my dilemma. I was in talking to the manager of what turned out to be the last available bungalow on the island, trying to negotiate a fairer price, when three weary backpackers came through the door, heaving their rucksacks off with a sigh and looking without much hope toward the manager. I quickly explained the situation to them and asked how they felt about sharing a bungalow between the four of us for the duration of my stay, or whenever anything else became available, whichever came first. They readily agreed and after another round of negotiation with the manager (he had rapidly appraised the situation and jacked the price up another 300 baht as we were standing there – cheek!), we had ourselves a lovely bamboo bungalow with air conditioning and private bathroom right off the beach. I was relieved to see four mattresses strewn across the floor of the largish sized bungalow, as we hadn’t really checked the sleeping arrangements before agreeing to a price and I was the only female in the group
.
Having spent only three days on Ko Samet, I can’t tell you as much about the island as I’d like to. I can tell you that if you arrive on any sort of Thai National or foreign holiday without pre-arranging lodgings, be prepared to rough it on the beach for at least a day or two. I came across quite a few travelers who were doing just that. Not the worst place in the world to spend a night or two camping rough however. Clean white sands, warm clear water, and public showers available at very reasonable rates.

Ko Samet is a nice quiet island where you’ll get an authentic feel for Thai culture. Day trip excursions are available if you want to explore some of the smaller surrounding islands, and there are also one or two dive companies where you can get PADI certified or just add some more sights to your dive log.

The locals put on a great New Year’s Eve party, much different than you’d experience on some of the other, touristier islands. Traditional Thai dancers, singers and Muay Thai Boxing matches made for a refreshing change of pace.

A couple of things to note before you journey to the beautiful islands of Thailand; if you’re planning to indulge in the abundance of illegal substances available to tourists on many of these islands, be careful! Thai Police are ever vigilant, though it may not seem so when you attend a Full Moon Party, and are famous for their extremely thorough searches and bank-account-emptying “fines.” It may seem like a great idea at the time, but I came across many a backpacker whose holidays were ruined or cut short by run-ins with Thai Police. Worse still, imagine ending up in a Thai Prison for an indeterminate amount of time.

Women traveling alone; keep an eye on your drinks, particularly at the Full Moon Party, as there have been many reports of sexual assaults. Better yet, find a group of ladies, join them for the party, and look out for each other. Other than that, Thailand is extremely safe for women traveling alone, as I can attest to. Just don’t put yourself in silly situations.

Most of these islands, if you arrive when they’re not gearing up for a Full Moon Party or some sort of national holiday, have more than enough accommodations to suit your needs, from budget to luxury, and you should be fine arriving without pre-booking and just checking out the ones that catch your eye.

Having said all that, the only thing left is; have fun island-hopping!

10 things to do on a Sunny Day in Vancouver

2010-03-30T20:01:00.000-07:00

If you’ve ever spent any amount of time in Vancouver, you know why the rest of the country fondly refers to the area as the “Wet Coast.” Yes, it’s true, Vancouver does get more than its fair share of liquid sunshine, it is a rain forest after all, but we also have warm, sunny summers that seem to go on forever. That’s when you’ll see tourists and locals alike breaking out the flip-flops and getting outdoors to explore the city. But if you’ve spent any time in Vancouver, you’ll also know that the locals don’t need an excuse to get out and enjoy the city, but a little sunshine sure helps!

Walk/Bike the Seawall
With over 22km to walk, bike or rollerblade, the ever-expanding seawall is the perfect way to spend a sunny day. With the main attraction being Stanley Park, the seawall also brings users through Coal Harbor, Yaletown, Kits Beach, and now the Olympic Village, to name a few. There are 2 outdoor pools along the way, 16 parks, and countless beaches, cafes, concession stands, pubs and tourist attractions, such as the Totem Poles in Stanley Park, or the nearby Vancouver Aquarium. Visitors to the city that make use of the seawall get an almost complete tour of Vancouver. Two things to remember though; bicycle traffic is one-way only through Stanley Park, and the walking and bike path are entirely separate. Woe to the seawall user that confuses the two, or cycles the wrong way on the bike path. Locals are not shy about pointing out these two simple rules to out-of-towners. And with good reason; before these rules came into effect, collisions between pedestrians, cyclists, and rollerbladers were an everyday occurrence.

Grouse Grind
Feeling energetic? Make your way to Grouse Mountain and hike the Grouse Grind. The unofficial record time for climbing the Grouse Grind is 24:22, but you don’t have to try for the record. For most users in reasonable physical health, it’s about an hour and a half hike, give or take. A beautifully maintained, but very steep trail through the woods brings you to Grouse Mountain, a local ski hill popular for both summer and winter sports. The view from the top makes the climb all worth it. Take in panoramic views of the city while enjoying fine dining in the Observatory Restaurant. There are also casual dining choices and coffee bars in the lodge. If you’re not feeling up to a brisk climb (and those who are making the ascent for some fine-dining probably won’t, in their formal attire) there is an aerial tram called the Skyride which makes for a pleasant ascent up the mountain, and is included in the cost of your dinner at the Observatory if you make reservations in advance.

Granville Island
Talented street performers, a diverse selection of freshly prepared local and ethnic foods, plenty of local artisan shops, and inexpensive water taxis to and from Granville Island make this a highly enjoyable way to soak up the sun. With plenty of outdoor seating, order up a spicy curry, homemade perogies, or fresh baked artisan bread with a selection of cheeses and deli meats from the market to make your own little picnic on a bench overlooking False Creek and just spend the day watching the boats go by, listening to local musicians, or wandering through the markets. There are also several pubs and restaurants if you’re looking for a less self-serve experience. You can find just about anything you’re looking for on Granville Island. Loaded with bakeries, fresh produce markets, delis, wine merchants, art supply shops, glassblowing studios, a mall just for children (even equipped with their own pint-sized door for entry), it’s easy to lose track of time here. You can even book whale watching trips or boat tours from Granville Island.

Salmon Fishing
Head down to the marina at Coal Harbor and take a stroll along the seawall. You’ll have no trouble finding a charter boat for day fishing trips, weekend trips, harbor dinner cruises, and the like. Even if you don’t catch a thing, spending a day on the water in the sunshine is still a pretty enjoyable way to spend the day. Catching some salmon certainly improves it though! From personal experience; I would recommend Preston and his crew on the SeaStar. I’ve included a link to the SeaStar’s website at the end of this article. Preston’s crew made sure that all twelve of us on board had a fantastic day on the water, providing BBQ’d salmon and sandwiches, salads, and chips for lunch, as well as soft drinks and bottled water. If half a day on the water is sufficient for you, you can opt for the morning or the afternoon departure. Preston does his very best to take you where the fish are biting. Of course no sport fishing company can guarantee a catch, but we were happy to haul out a 28 pound salmon to take home with us. He even gutted and filleted it for us when we reached the docks, feeding the scraps to waiting sea lions, who put on their own little show for us with all their barking and diving, attracting quite a crowd.

Hop-on, Hop-off Bus Tours
If walking tours are not your thing, and you want to get a decent tour of the city, the Hop-on, Hop-off bus tours are the way to go. A two day pass comes at a reasonable price and takes you through much of the downtown core, including Stanley Park, Chinatown, Granville Island, English Bay and Gastown. Grab a seat on the open air top deck and relax in the sunshine. With stops all over the city and another bus coming along every fifteen minutes or so, you can disembark and explore the sights that interest you at your leisure. With a narrated tour along the whole route, you can also learn a little of the history of Vancouver. Having taken the tour myself when entertaining visitors from overseas, I was pleasantly surprised to learn a little about Vancouver that I hadn’t known before, and it was all around just an enjoyable sightseeing tour.

Shopping
Skip the malls on a sunny day and hit the streets for some shopping. But where do I start? Vancouver has so many shopping districts, and where you go depends on what you’re looking for.
Robson Street has all your typical shops like Gap, Club Monacco, American Eagle and the like. There are plenty of dining options as well on Robson if you work up an appetite with all that shopping.
I’ve already touched on Granville Island, but basically, if you’re in an artistic frame of mind, Granville Island is the place to be. If you’re looking for funky and unusual, look no further than the island.
Commercial Drive is a vibrant blend of Italian, Cuban, Middle-Eastern and Greek shops, delis and restaurants. With an interesting mix of hippie, gay and lesbian shops thrown in for good measure. Home of the Dyke March and the Parade of Lost Souls, Commercial Drive is one of the more interesting neighborhoods in the city and the sunny patios along the drive are always in high demand.
If you’re looking for something a little more upscale, the intersection of Alberni and Burrard Streets and the surrounding area provide high-end boutiques such as Tiffany’s, Betsey Johnson, Agent Provocatuer, Louis Vuitton and the like. There are also several fine dining options in the area to show off your new haute couture.
Both Davie and Denman Street in the West End used to be home to many interesting local businesses. Sadly, with lease prices in the West End rising astronomically, you tend to see a lot more Starbucks, Tim Hortons, McDonalds and other franchises these days. However, this is Vancouver’s major gay and lesbian district, and there are still plenty of unique shops along Davie Street that are definitely worth a look.
Locals will notice that I’ve skipped a few choice shopping areas. There are just too many to name, and half the fun is discovering them for yourself.

Capilano Suspension Bridge/Treetop Adventure
Just the way to conquer your fear of heights! Or possibly make it worse. The swaying bridge has thrilled visitors to the area for years, and the recently added Treetop Adventure completes the experience. Built in a unique rainforest setting high above the Capilano River, visitors can continue on from the bridge along seven more suspension bridges set up to 100ft above ground in the treetops. Guided tours are available, or you can simply explore at your own pace, stopping for First Nations wood carving demonstrations, musical entertainment, or just the amazing views. I’m told by visitors from the UK that the Capilano Suspension Bridge is occasionally highlighted on BC travel shows, along with the voice over the loudspeaker chastising tourists for “shaking the bridge.” My visitors were happy to report back home that they got to hear the voice from the loudspeaker. I apologize to the staff at Capilano, in hindsight; it probably wasn’t the wisest thing to do.

Hit the Deck!
What better way to enjoy the day than sitting on one of Vancouver’s many sun-drenched patios, enjoying a chilly pint of local microbrew beer. With several to choose from, English Bay, Coal Harbor, and Yaletown offer some of the best waterfront views. Some great patios on the water include; Bridges on Granville Island, The Boathouse in English Bay, Nu Restaurant overlooking False Creek, Carderos and The Lift Restaurant; both in Coal Harbor, and Provence Marinaside in Yaletown. Don’t limit your options to these restaurants though, there are so many along the water to try out, and it’s almost impossible to make the wrong choice.
There are also some spectacular patios a little more inland in the downtown core. Try Joe Fortes on Robson, The Keg in Yaletown, Brix Restaurant, also in Yaletown, or L’Altro Buca at The Buchan Hotel in the West End.
Whatever your choice, waterfront or no, fresh seafood, tasty beer, and extensive wine lists make for an unforgettable experience at any of these fantastic patio restaurants.

Pitch and Putt in Stanley Park
There are oodles of pitch-and-putts in Vancouver and the surrounding area. The Stanley Park pitch and putt just happens to have the best location. And what I consider to be the most beautifully landscaped course. Set amidst lush gardens of rhododendrons and mature trees, even if you’re not much of a golfer, you’ll enjoy a day putting around this course. Novices can enjoy the walk around this 18 hole course, practicing their swing with occasional sightings of squirrels, raccoons, ducks and geese. Within walking distance of tennis courts, a lawn bowling club, English Bay, Lost Lagoon, and the Fish House Restaurant, you and your family can make a day of it.

Horseshoe Bay
One of my favorite things to do on a clear day in Vancouver is to load up the dogs, hop in the car and take the scenic drive out to Horseshoe Bay. Grab some take out fish and chips and clam chowder from one of the restaurants in the bay and find a patch of grass to sit and watch the ferries come in from the islands. The dogs love chasing a ball along the rocky shoreline. If you’ve got no plans for the day, hop on a ferry to the Sunshine Coast, Nanaimo, or nearby Bowen Island. Or take your fish and chips and head up to Whytecliff Park, about a 10 minute drive from Horseshoe Bay. Spend the day on the beach watching the seals in their protected habitat. This is also a popular spot for divers if you’re into some underwater exploration. With plenty of picnic areas, tennis courts, a playground and walking trails winding through the cliffs overlooking the Howe Sound, you’ll find the perfect spot to sit down and enjoy your lunch in the sunshine.

These are just a few of the many sunny-day activities to be found in the city of Vancouver, and I didn’t even mention sun-bathing on Kits Beach, cheering on your horse at Hastings Race Course, or BBQ’ing in Stanley Park! Come visit and discover the city for yourself, just bring your raincoats! Having said that, I’ll leave you with a quote from Canadian band favorite, Trooper; “So have a good time, the sun can’t shine every day. And the sun is shining, in this rainy city.” I’m pretty sure they were singing about Vancouver.

Link for salmon fishing charter tours:
http://www.oceanadventurecenter.com/

Rambling La Rambla in Barcelona, Spain

2010-03-22T08:09:00.000-07:00

One of the things I have always loved about great European cities is their ability to move seamlessly into the present while still retaining that which made them great to begin with. Barcelona is no exception to this rule.

If you travel to places the Spanish have occupied, even for a brief period, you’ll see echoes of Barcelona. Cuba, Mexico, Morocco – all have retained some pleasing aspect that the Spaniards brought over with them. It’s no surprise that these countries repeated Barcelona’s city planning over and over again. Barcelona is an extraordinarily well planned city. Having said that, it can be somewhat overwhelming upon first arriving in Barcelona. It’s a huge, busy, metropolitan city and it’s hard to decide where to start.

My husband and I arrived by train from Costa Brava, a coastal area about an hour and a half from Barcelona by rail. We disembarked at Estacio de Sants (Barcelona Sants Station), and from there we hopped onto the Metro to take us to the city centre. We spent probably the first two hours wandering around with our rucksacks, enjoying the sunshine and soaking up the city vibe.

First things first. Finding some lodging to ditch your gear so you can properly begin exploring. Traffic in Barcelona can be quite heavy, and unless you have a particular reason for staying on the outskirts of the city, finding something in the city centre is optimal. Even the budget hostel prices here can run quite high (around 70 Euros and up) but, keep in mind that you’re paying for the location as well; saving yourself the hassle of public transit, taxis, and getting lost along the way.

We managed to find a clean, tidy hostel near La Rambla (great location!) that was a little on the pricey side, but served a free continental breakfast every morning. Small victories, people, small victories.

After taking a wander through La Rambla, enjoying a dish of Paella with a glass of wine, and tucking in for a good nights sleep, the first thing I recommend that you do with your first full day in Barcelona is to purchase a two day pass for the hop-on, hop-off bus tour. With stops all over the city, and another bus coming along every 15 minutes or so, this tour offers an inexpensive way to travel around this vast city, hitting all the major sites along the way. What we did was to grab a seat on the open air top deck, armed with a map, and take the first day to simply enjoy the ride and see the sights. We took note of those sights which we were most interested in, and used the next day to get off at all the stops we had noted the day before, skipping those that we didn’t think we’d have time to include. This ensured that we used the time we had there to do what we actually wanted to do, and the first day spent riding around in the city helped us to get our bearings.

In this article, I’ll touch base on some of the stops that interested us; but don’t let that stop you from checking out all the sights available while you’re exploring Barcelona, as we had limited time there and obviously couldn’t stop to see absolutely everything we wanted to.

Nou Camp Stadium
Being a rabid football (soccer, for you North Americans) fan, this was one stop my husband insisted that we make. I was prepared to indulge him in this, but was pleasantly surprised to find myself quite interested in the history of this famed football ground. Home to Barcelona FC, the Nou Camp Stadium (also called Camp Nou) is the third largest football pitch in the world after Sao Paulo, Brazil and Mexico City. With a fan seating capacity of upwards of 98,600, watching a match here can be an amazing experience and I’m sorry we didn’t have the opportunity to do so. Located between a maternity hospital and a cemetery, locals often state that their football matches are “between life and death.” If you’ve been to a game here, you might just agree. The stadium also houses a large football museum with a complete history of Barcelona FC. If you weren’t a football fan when you walked in here, you just might be when you leave.

La Sagrada Familia
By far the most visited tourist attraction in Barcelona, this cathedral, designed by famed architect Antoni Gaudi is a fascinating work in progress. The first stone was laid in 1882. Reports tend to differ on the expected completion date, but it seems to lie in the area of 2025-2030. Walking through and around the cathedral, it is interesting to note the changes of style in architecture as one architect passed away and another would take over. The stained glass work is incredible, as are the views from the towers, which can be reached by climbing tiny spiral staircases with ancient stone walls surrounding you. The only thing I found disappointing about this was the amount of graffiti that caretakers have allowed to build up in the stairwells over the years. However, as a friend pointed out to me, graffiti is one of the most ancient forms of communication, and doesn’t that fit in with the age of the cathedral? I thought that was probably a good way to look at things, but I’d still prefer if more artistically talented graffiti artists had made their mark there, instead of random scribblers with Sharpies.

Modernist Buildings
Three of the popular modernist buildings sit on the same block, known as the “Illa de la Discòrdia” (“Block of Discord”).
Casa Batllo, another famous Gaudi design, is like something of a fairy tale, inside and out, and you can see how heavily Gaudi was influenced by flowing designs found in nature.
Next door to Casa Battlo sits Casa Amatler, a gothic inspired design by Josep Puig i Cadafalch.
Casa Lleó-Morera, designed by architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner, underwent restoration beginning in 1992 and is somewhat of a medieval construction, with plenty of arches, busts, and mythical fairies.
All three of these beautiful, yet contradictory buildings can be found on the same street; Passeig de Gracia. A little further up the same street you’ll find Casa Mila, another stunning creation by Antoni Gaudi.

La Rambla
Also known as Las Ramblas, La Rambla is my favorite tourist attraction in Barcelona. I was delighted to find a twin of this stretch of street in Havana, Cuba, if not quite the same festive atmosphere. Comprised of a collection of various different stretches of streets with different names, La Rambla is an enjoyable stroll, be it morning, afternoon or evening. It begins at Plaza Catalunya and ends up at the Monument of Columbus at the Port Vell Harbour of Barcelona. Lined with outdoor patios ranging from casual to fine-dining and colorful street performers, it has a bit of a carnival feel to it. Each stretch of street we made our way along seemed to have a different theme; for instance, one stretch would only have caged yellow birds for sale, the next stretch flowers, the next paintings and sketches by local artists, and so on. If you’re sitting down for a nice meal and don’t wish to become part of the entertainment, however, my advice is to request a table away from the street or try your best not to make eye contact with the street performers. After sitting down to our dishes of paella and a glass of wine, I somehow ended up standing on the shoulders of a street performer as he ran up and down the street (and I was wearing a skirt, not exactly acrobatic attire), as my husband laughed and clapped along with other spectators. Not exactly the dinner I had in mind. Fun though.

Museu de L’Erotica
I’m almost embarrassed to say that, while we didn’t find the time to fit in a visit to the Picasso Museum, we did manage to find the time for the “Sex Museum.”
This was just a fun stop on La Rambla for my husband and me. It’s a fairly tame collection of “porn”, sex toys, and erotic photography from the 20’s, 30’s, and in some cases, even earlier. Certainly not on the scale of the Picasso Museum, but worth a stop, if you’re in the mood for something silly, sexy, and a little romantic.

The Olympic Harbor/Village
Barcelona hosted the Summer Olympics in 1992 and revitalized the waterfront area to house the athletes during their stay. It is now a lovely neighborhood that makes for a great walking tour, with various cafes, shops and sculptures throughout. It is also populated with colorful Quaker Parrots that make their presence known as they squawk from tree to tree. The Quaker Parrots, also known as the monk parakeet, are a particularly raucous breed that only “talks” while in the air, becoming silent again once perched in a tree. It’s a non-native species that has become somewhat of a pest to locals, due to their voracious appetites, but still a draw to bird-lovers visiting the city.

Barrio Gotico
The Gothic Area of Barcelona has some of the oldest and most beautiful buildings and streets in Barcelona. Roman walls and ruins can still be seen throughout the area. It’s not the only place in Barcelona you can visit Roman ruins, but it’s one of the most interesting. Stop by the Museu d'Història de la Ciutat and you can explore remnants of Roman houses and streets. There are also some extraordinary cathedrals in this area of the city. You can stroll through at your own pace or organize a guided walking tour if you’re interested in hearing the history of each site as you walk through. There are several scenic plazas to stop in and have a seat to just watch the world go by, complete with local street musicians. Also on offer are plenty of popular restaurants and cafes, should you work up an appetite doing all that walking.

I wish we’d had more time to spend in Barcelona, there are still so many sights there we didn’t have the opportunity to see. I guess there’s nothing stopping us from returning there and finishing the job on our next trip to Europe, however. If Barcelona’s not on your itinerary for your next European vacation, definitely consider adding it!

Exploring California’s City by the Bay, San Francisco

2010-03-13T21:08:00.000-08:00

Sitting in Vesuvio Bar, off Jack Kerouac Alley, sipping on a pint of Anchor Steam, one could almost believe they’ve traveled back in time and are sitting in the San Francisco of yesteryear. You expect to turn to the barstool next to you and see the man himself, Jack Kerouac, drinking off last night’s hangover, as some famous beat poet or another rails against humanity from the dimly lit corner of the room. To me, this bar truly felt like the San Francisco I had long imagined.

But it’s not just funky retro bars I came to see here, although San Francisco has more than it’s fair share of them. I wanted to see the whole city; tourist traps and local haunts alike. It would be easy to spend a week or two in San Francisco, enjoying that west coast vibe, but if you only have a weekend to spare, I’ve laid out just a few of the sights you should definitely check out while you’re here.
May through September is usually the best time to visit, when you’ll get the most sunshine and the warmest temperatures. However, I’ve gone during winter months as well and been happily surprised with the mild temperatures and clear, blue skies. Locals informed me that I’d lucked out with the weather. Taking in the sights around San Francisco can involve a lot of walking, if you’re so inclined, and it helps if the weather cooperates.

Fisherman’s Wharf
Yes, it’s definitely a tourist trap, but there’s a reason for that. It’s a great way to spend the day! Stroll around Pier 39, wandering in and out of art galleries, watching the street performers, sampling some fresh seafood or a bowl of hot seafood chowder (great on a rainy day), or just taking in the view across the bay towards Alcatraz. The absolute number one thing to do here though is to watch the sea lions. They showed up some 20 years ago and began colonizing the piers amongst the chowder and seafood shops. Experts speculate this influx was due to earthquake activity at the time, the Loma Prieta quake, which hit the Bay Area in 1989. With a population of 200-400 sea lions, it’s easy to spend a couple of hours just watching them bark, dive, play, or just lounge about on the docks, soaking up the sun. Following the mysterious influx of some 1500 sea lions in the fall of 2009, news coverage has shown an equally mysterious departure of the famed sea lions shortly after, but more recent reports have shown the slow return of San Francisco’s much loved sea lion population.

Alcatraz Island
Often referred to as The Rock, Alcatraz is the most famous tourist attraction in the San Francisco Bay Area. Located 1.5 miles off the mainland, Alcatraz Island began it’s history as a lighthouse, then a military fortification, a military prison, and finally a federal prison which housed such notorious prisoners as Al Capone, George “Machine Gun” Kelly, and Robert Franklin Stroud (the Birdman of Alcatraz). Between the years of 1969 and 1971 it was occupied by Indians of All Tribes, Inc, in what began as a symbolic occupation to awaken the American public to the need for Indian self-determination. This soon turned into a full scale occupation which eventually culminated in the forcible removal by armed marshals and FBI agents of the remaining occupants; five women, four children, and six unarmed men.

Today the prison remains open to flocks of tourists, arriving daily by ferry from Pier 33. If you want the full history as you explore the prison and its grounds, headsets are available which provide a running narrative from your starting point. Alcatraz is not only a fascinating place to explore American history; it also has somewhat of a seawall with some great views across the bay into the city and towards the Golden Gate Bridge. It makes a perfect spot to pack a picnic lunch and watch the ships roll in.

Pubcrawling on Columbus Street
The aforementioned Vesuvio Bar can be found on Columbus Street (across from arguably one of the best bookstores in the city, City Lights Bookstore), along with many other colorful and diverse pubs, clubs and cafes along the way. It helps to have a copy of San Francisco’s Best Dive Bars, by Todd Dayton, for this endeavor. It’s a guide which lists, by neighborhood, some of the seediest, grittiest, and most genuine hole-in-the-wall dives in the city. Mr. Bing’s Cocktail Lounge on Columbus Street is one that holds a special place in my heart, this is a true local haunt, and you’re guaranteed to meet some interesting characters in here. Start at the bottom of Columbus and make your way up, making sure to detour into any dead-end seeming alleyways that promise a drink around the corner. This is where you’ll find some of the most interesting little Irish snugs, stuffed to capacity with fascinating Americana and historic memorabilia.

Another great place to stop for a pint of Guinness and a pub lunch is Lefty O’Doul’s, located on Geary Street off Union Square. Simple fare and plenty of seating, along with countless T.V.’s playing any sport you can imagine, Lefty’s also boasts a great piano bar, which fills up pretty quickly with business clientele, coming in for a glass of wine and a sing along after a long day at the office, so get there early if you want a seat near the piano.

Ride the Cable Cars.
It’s just not a trip to San Francisco unless you ride the cable cars. Preferably hanging off the side with one foot on the running boards, “just like in the movies,” as my husband put it. We insisted on doing just that, much to the annoyance of all the seated passengers who said we were blocking their view. Sorry folks, but it had to be done. A day pass, for $13.00, buys you riding privileges on the three separate routes, which gets you a pretty good tour of the city. Stops include Powell Market, Nob Hill, Fisherman’s Wharf, the financial district, Chinatown, Russian Hill, and Ghiradelli Square (Mmmm, chocolate). The Powell-Hyde cable car line has a stop at the top of Lombard Street, unless you want to do what we did – jump off at the closest stop at the bottom and hike up Lombard – whew! Lombard Street is billed as the “crookedest street” in the city, which, oddly enough, it isn’t. But it’s a beautiful street nonetheless, with steep switchbacks all the way down (or up, depending on your point of view) and is lined with lovely landscaping and Victorian mansions. Spend a half hour or so watching the carloads of people navigating the hairpin turns and screaming in mock terror at every corner.

Napa Valley Wine Train
Sample a taste of the luxurious Napa Valley lifestyle. If you book at least one day in advance, you can ferry over to Vallejo from San Francisco, where a shuttle will pick you up and transport you to the Wine Train. There are several different packages you can choose from; lunch, dinner, weekend getaways, or even weddings. Several offer winery tours as part of the packages, which I recommend you take them up on, as admission can get pretty pricey at some of the wineries when not part of a package ($60.00 and up). Top notch service and a glass dome roof riding car make this an unforgettable experience.

Some wineries worth mention include the recently renovated Francis Ford Copolla winery, where wine lovers and movie buffs alike can get their fix, touring through the winery, which is interspersed with sets from some of his movies. The Clos du Val Winery is another one worth stopping by - I found a wine merchant in Vancouver that carries a select few of their reds, much to my delight! For a perfect day, start at V.Sattui Winery; take a browse through their market place, picking out fresh deli meats, cheeses, and breads, then pick up a bottle of their crisp strawberry Gamay Rouge and picnic on their two and a half acres of shaded grounds outside the gorgeous stone winery building. Some other wineries of note include Sterling Vineyards. Perched atop a hill with sweeping views all around, Sterling’s architecture is somewhat reminiscent of the Greek Island of Santorini. And finally, Castella di Amerosa, where the winery itself is a castle built from stone brought over from Italy for this specific purpose. But I’ll let you discover the rest on your own, there are so many award winning wineries in Napa and the surrounding area, both large and small, and everyone seems to have a different favorite.

Dine Out.
With restaurants like Harry Denton’s Starlight Room, Wolfgang Puck’s Postrio, and Jardiniere, it hardly needs to be said that San Francisco has a dining scene rivaling that of New York City. So I won’t spend a huge amount of time listing all the fabulous restaurants this city has on offer. I will, however, point out a few of my favorites that are definitely worth a try while you’re there. The Tonga Room at the Fairmont Hotel is an absolutely amazing tiki-themed restaurant that must be seen to be believed. Tables are situated around an indoor lagoon, upon which floats a barge with a lively Calypso band to entertain you while you dine on Pacific Rim menu options. Occasional tropical storms pass through the room, complete with thunder, lightening, and rain, but not to worry; you’ll stay dry under your thatched umbrellas. If you’re in the mood for a little dancing after dinner, take a spin on the dance floor built from the remains of the S.S. Forester.

You’ll probably recognize The Fog City Diner from television or movie sets, as it’s used frequently when the script calls for a scene in a typical American style diner. With checkered tile floors, stainless steel décor, and a decidedly 1930’ish feel, it perfectly fits the bill. The food here, however, is not your typical American diner fare. A little on the pricey side, this is a restaurant where you can dress down but still enjoy an upscale dining experience.

Located on Powell Street, Lori’s Diner is a nostalgic throwback to the fabulous 50’s. Simple menu choices; burgers, shakes, malts, fries, etc, make this a great place for families to dine, with reasonable prices to match. No fine dining here, it’s just fast-paced fun. Classic oldies add to the upbeat atmosphere (there’s even a jukebox), and there’s plenty of memorabilia to wander around and admire as you wait for your meal.

The Haight
Famed for its role in the 1960’s hippie culture, the Haight-Ashbury district still retains much of the laid back, peace loving mentality it became known for, if peppered here and there with trendy clothing stores and nightspots these days. It’s still worth a wander through here if you’re hoping to find some relics from the Summer of Love. The well maintained Victorian homes in the neighborhood, known as “Painted Ladies” are absolutely gorgeous and make for some great photos. The Haight-Ashbury Street Fair is held on the second Sunday in June every year, and can get quite busy, as it is a tourist destination in itself. Much of the street is only open to pedestrian traffic for this, with live bands playing outdoors.

The Castro
For gay, lesbian, bisexual, and transgender visitors, this is The district to check out. It is known as the world’s first gay community and has become a symbol of pride and acceptance throughout the years. This is where Harvey Milk lived, worked and began his political career as a gay activist. Everyone is welcome here, and some of the Pride Festival events outdo any carnival anywhere else in the world. If you have the opportunity to attend the Pride Parade, don’t pass it up, it’s incredible.

These are just a few of the attractions on offer in San Francisco, one of my favorite cities in the world, and I haven’t even touched on the live music scene, Chinatown, Sausalito, shopping in Union Square…. It’s no wonder there’s over 1000 songs written about this city, and still more yet to be written, I’m sure.

Author’s note: Props to my wine-genius friend, Corey Barlow, who was good enough to take my sorry, broke self in after I returned from traipsing around SE Asia. Corey lives and works in Napa Valley, firmly entrenched in the wine industry. He was also kind enough to tour me around some of Napa’s amazing wineries, of which my memory, is, not surprisingly, a little fuzzy. Thanks Corey, for everything, but also for supplying the names of wineries that were just on the tip of my tongue, and for suggesting a few new ones I’ve yet to explore. But I will. Soon.

Surviving Phnom Penh, Cambodia

2010-03-05T08:19:00.000-08:00

Phnom Penh is a difficult city to write about, for many reasons. It is a city rife with contradictions; extreme poverty and opulent luxury exist side by side, seemingly in harmony. Ancient temples of long ago glory sit next to bombed out buildings, never repaired, simply used as is. Beggars mournfully approach, displaying missing limbs, sheared off by land mines, only to turn around and produce a cell phone from the folds of their garb to text a friend.

Another reason I find it difficult to write about Phnom Penh is the mindset I was in at the time, I fear that I will not do this great Asian city the justice it so deserves. I arrived in Phnom Penh the day after receiving an email from back home imparting the news to me of the death of a close friend. Perhaps this was the worst possible time for me to visit the Tuol Sleng Museum and The Killing Fields; when my own mortality was foremost in my mind. Perhaps it was the best possible time; when my mind was most open to truly understanding what happened here, during the horrific and brutal reign of the Khmer Rouge regime. Whatever the case may be, there I was, on my own in Phnom Penh, with a load on my mind, and I threw myself into exploring the city and it’s surroundings, so that I didn’t have to think about what was really on my mind, and in my heart.

I arrived in Phnom Penh from Siem Reap by a combination of bus, then boat. Phnom Penh is situated at the convergence of the Tonle Sap, Mekong and Bassac Rivers. After an idyllic sunrise ride through the floating markets and villages along the Tonle Sap Lake, it was a bit overwhelming to be dropped off amongst a manic crowd of moto-taxi drivers clamoring for my business, many of them, I was told, heavily addicted to what is known locally as Yaba, or more commonly known as Yama, a form of methamphetamine.

I picked the one standing furthest away from the frantic cluster of moto-taxi drivers; in other words, the one I thought looked the least drug-addicted and therefore not so desperate to earn $2.00.

He showed me a photo album with the name “Same Same But Different” emblazoned across the front. This was a bit of a cheeky name for a guest house. “Same same, but different” is a phrase you’ll hear throughout Thailand and Cambodia. It applies to the mass of backpackers following the “route” through SE Asia looking for that unique, off the beaten path experience. It barely exists anymore, and finding it usually requires no small effort on your part. So they use it amongst the foreigners to describe whatever latest tourist destination might have made it into Lonely Planet, or Rough Guide, etc. For example; Me: “Can you take me to the Reclining Buddha?”

Tuk-tuk driver: (driving in the complete opposite direction of my destination): “Ya ya. I take you there.”

Me: (speaking a little more slowly now) “The Reclining Buddha. I want to go to the Reclining Buddha.”

Tuk-tuk driver: “Ya ya. Same same.” But different, as I soon discover after being dropped off in front of some sort of temple that appears to be utterly Buddha-less. To the locals that work in the business of tourism, one destination is as good as another and I assumed my moto-taxi driver in Phnom Penh thought the same.

I flipped through his album, looking at pictures of the Same Same Guesthouse, but he had me at the first page. It was situated on Boeng Kak Lake and the first photograph showed a sunset shot of their stilted bamboo patio, potted palms in silhouette against the sky, a couple of travelers sipping on some cold Angkor beers, watching the sun go down on the lake. That was enough for me, and I agreed on the $2.00 (US) fare as he piled my rucksack precariously on his handlebars and I jumped on behind and off we went, at breakneck speed, for my first glimpse of the city of Phnom Penh.

The first thing I noticed was the amount of scooters and motorcycles streaking about on the roads, with what seemed like entire families perched upon them. The most I saw was a family of five (including their young baby) piled atop one another, baby astride the mommy’s hip, cruising carelessly along, flip-flop clad and helmetless. By the end of the day, I was no longer agog at such sights.

The second thing I noticed was the gorgeous French colonial architecture, amid bombed out buildings, outdoor markets that seemed to lack any sort of organization, Buddhist temples, and well kept modern styles of building. What a unique, eclectic city.

My driver entered what seemed a labyrinth of tiny, dirty alleyways, turning this way and that, still at incredible speeds, and finally pulled up in front of the Same Same Guesthouse, where he kindly deposited my rucksack at the front desk for me. I gave him a one dollar tip and he seemed a little overwhelmed by that, smiling and bowing repeatedly at me, hands clasped in front of him, prayer style.

I was given the choice of a room with a private bathroom ($4.00 US) or a shared bathroom at the end of the hall ($3.00). I decided to splurge on the private bathroom, and once in my very basic room (fan, lumpy bed with sheet, rickety bedside stand); I opened the bathroom door with relish, anticipating a nice long, cool shower. I immediately closed the door and vowed never to open it again. It resembled a dark, concrete cave, and I swore I saw something move in there when I opened the door, something that maybe hadn’t been exposed to the light of day for a very long time. Shared bathroom it is, I thought.

I went down to check out the lakefront patio and it was everything the photo I’d seen had promised. Low key chill-out music drifted from the speakers and a few backpackers sat around, quietly discussing the best sights to see while in Phnom Penh, all the while gentle waves lapped quietly at the moorings. After a long day’s travel, this was the perfect place to sit back and watch the sunset after I ordered a Khmer curry dish with rice and a cold bottle of Angkor to wash it down. (All for about $3.00 US).

There are quite a few of these lakefront guesthouses clustered along the edge of Boeng Kak Lake, all with perfect sunset vantages, and they range from the very basic (like mine) to slightly fancier, some even boasting air conditioning and pillows and blankets with your bedding. Price ranges are all ridiculously cheap, though. In the evenings, after sunset, most of them show movies in the common area, should you need a night off from the frenetic Phnom Penh night life. One of the guesthouses, while I was there, showed Mel Gibson’s Braveheart nightly, to a packed house of English, Irish and Scottish, all of them cheering on their own country, as though history hadn’t told them just how it was going to turn out.

The next morning I mentally prepared myself for what I had actually come here to do; explore the Tuol Sleng genocide museum, and The Killing Fields. I had picked up a book in Bangkok called Surviving the Killing Fields on the recommendation of a fellow traveler who had just returned from Phnom Penh. It’s written by Haing S. Ngor, who also played the part of Dith Pran, a Cambodian journalist in the movie The Killing Fields. It’s a graphic first hand account of one man’s tale of survival of the “Intellectual Cleansing” carried out by the Khmer Rouge, with Pol Pot at its head. I found this book to be very disturbing, to say the least, but it also brought home to me what I was going to see here, which when hearing about it back home, seemed far off and not quite real. Not so now. Reading this book may not have helped my state of mind any, after the sudden death of my friend, but I feel that to really understand a country’s people and it’s culture, you must explore both the glorious and shameful aspects of its history.

According to the Khmer dictionary, Tuol Sleng, which was named long before the Khmer Rouge appropriated it for their horrific purposes (it was once a high school), loosely translates to mean “Poison Ground.” This couldn’t be more appropriate. The very air felt poisoned there. After stopping on my way in to give a dollar or two here and there to the amputees begging outside the prison walls, having lost limbs to one of the many land mines this country still hides under its soil, I paid the entrance fee and began to explore in earnest. The former classrooms of Tuol Sleng Highschool were converted into prison cells, with all the windows enclosed by iron bars, and covered with barbed wire to prevent any possible escapes. Some were divided into small cells, designed for single prisoners, some left as is and used to house mass groups of prisoners. In each cell, the regulations were posted on small pieces of black board, including rules such as “While getting lashes or electrification you must not cry at all,” or “Do not make pretexts about Kampuchea Krom in order to hide your jaw of traitor.”

The cells were mainly left as they had been during the reign of Pol Pot, iron beds with shackles, set in the center of the room, and in some rooms you can see splatters of what appears to be blood staining the ceiling or the walls. One of the most disturbing aspects of the museum, I found, was the Khmer Rouge’s attempt to document each and every prisoner that had come through its doors. This was evidenced by a collection of photographs taken of the men, women and children that had passed through here, or died here. The photographs are now on display in black and white throughout the museum and along the hallways. Some of the prisoners stare at the camera distantly, eyes glazed over, spirit broken, but some stare defiantly into the camera, challenging. Some faces still show evidence of brutal beatings. Some very few, heartbreakingly, smile into the camera sunnily, as though they know they will soon be released into the waiting arms of their family. The photos of the children are the hardest to bear witness to. But bear witness we must.

I left there shaken and decided to wait until the next day to visit The Killing Fields. I just didn’t think I could take any more that day. I hopped onto a moto-taxi and headed back to the guesthouse. In dire need of some light-hearted entertainment, I made my way to what I had dubbed “The Braveheart Guesthouse”, ordered an Angkor, sat down on the Scottish side of the room, and joined them in cheering on William Wallace (apologies to my English husband, but I think the Scottish needed more than Mel Gibson on their side.)

The next morning, slightly rested after a night of fitful sleep, I awoke to the single drum beat of the Buddhist monks gathered in the alleyway outside the guesthouse. The drum beat marks the beginning of their early morning chant, which echoes back and forth among the concrete buildings as they make their way from door to door accepting donations of rice, fresh baked bread and the like. I took this as a good note to start the day on, and made the journey over to the Choeung Ek Killing Fields, the most well-known of the sites of mass burial graves used by the Khmer Rouge to dispose of their victims.

If you have ever been to Auschwitz, in Poland, you’ll find shades of it echoed here in Cambodia. There is a commemorative stupa, a tower of skulls encased in glass, a monument to the victims who were murdered here. Also on display are the clothes that were taken off the bodies before they were tossed into the mass burial pits, many of these clothes were used again on new prisoners brought into Tuol Sleng Prison. Most disturbing of all, perhaps, are the shoes left behind by the victims, some small enough for tiny baby feet.

I wandered around the surrounding fields and forest to pay my respects at the mass graves; now empty pits in the ground; small wooden signs to mark their existence. As I made my way around them, small Khmer children ran up to me again and again, taking my hand and imploring me to “take picture,” as they smiled sweetly up at me. To these children, who didn’t live through the horror of the Khmer Rouge, this is just another opportunity to make a dollar or two, but it just didn’t feel right to me to be taking pictures with happy children as though we were in Disneyland, so I smiled back at them and sent them on their way.

By backing Pol Pot, the Chinese, and, more subtly, the U.S.A., have done a great disservice to this country. An aide to Jimmy Carter has said that Pol Pot was an “abomination,” but admitted to “encouraging the Chinese to support him.” During the Khmer Rouge regime, at least 200,000 Cambodians were murdered, many of them considered intellectuals. Doctors, lawyers, teachers, accountants and the like were among the first to be executed. Eventually it came to the point that if a person wore glasses, they were considered to be an intellectual, and this gave the Khmer Rouge cause to execute them. Who knows how many generations this loss of Cambodia’s greatest resource, knowledge, will impact in the future. Much of the Khmer Rouge regime will never be brought to accountability for their actions, one reason being that it was an army comprised largely of children, who were simply doing what they had to in order to survive.

After spending two days looking at the aftermath of genocide, I had some misgivings about heading out to the shooting range and firing a gun, at anything. But a line from a movie kept sticking in my head, in which one character enthuses about how, in Phnom Penh you can “blow up a cow, for, like, a dollar.” Not that I desired to fire a bazooka at some poor, unsuspecting cow, quite the opposite. My intention was to tag along with some English fellows that I’d met at the guesthouse and observe as they fired AK-47’s, etc, with solemn promises not to “blow up any living creatures.”

We were presented with a menu when we arrived. This included target shooting with AK-47’s, Uzi’s, M-16’s, and 12-gauge, semi-automatic combat shotguns. There were more options, but my knowledge of weaponry only extends so far. Nowhere on the menu was there a cow on offer, but there was an option to blow up a car, for the hefty price of $200 US. However, as the saying goes, money talks. And in Cambodia, if it’s to blow up a cow you desire, then a cow you shall have. One of my new friends was pulled aside and discreetly offered a chicken, if he wanted to target practice on one, but he politely declined. After sipping a couple of rounds of cold beers in the shade, and firing off a few rounds (I know – beer and guns – bad idea,) we left with wallets considerably lighter than when we’d arrived. It’s more expensive then you think to visit the firing range here, with most target practice starting at $20 US.

Shootin’ guns is thirsty work. Or not. But it’s a good excuse to head out on the town for a drink or two. And if you’re looking for a night of mayhem, with very little recollection the next day, then Phnom Penh is more than happy to deliver. A book written by Amit Gilboa, addresses this very subject. Off the Rails in Phnom Penh, a controversial look at the dark side of Phnom Penh, offers a somewhat disjointed take on the drug addiction, prostitution, and general lawlessness that many expats are drawn to there. It’s not pretty. But it’s there, and you can’t ignore it. Sex tourism, sadly, is big business in Phnom Penh, bringing many foreign visitors over for the young boys and girls on offer there.

However, if it’s just a drink you’re after (and I sincerely hope so), then a few watering holes of note include; Elsewhere, The FCC, the Magic Sponge Bar, and of course, the rather infamous Heart of Darkness, which seems to draw mixed reviews. I think it depends on the crowd present on the night you’re there. My experience there was great, if not so much the next day. It’s open until sunrise, and I took full advantage of their long hours. At one point, I was surprised to see many locals dancing to Dead Kennedy’s Holiday in Cambodia. I asked one of the locals who had joined me on the dance floor if he knew the lyrics to it, meaning, “Are you okay with dancing to a song about Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge?” He made a peaceful gesture with his hands, kind of pushing them down and away from himself and said, “No Khmer Rouge. Just dance. Have fun.” Okay. Got it. And this is pretty much the reception you’ll receive when trying to broach the subject of the Khmer Rouge with any of the locals. The younger ones, at least.

After you’ve shaken off your ridiculous hangover the next day, there’s a lot more that this city has on offer besides The Killing Fields and gun ranges. Take a stroll through the outdoor markets and down to the Tonle Sap riverfront, it makes for a pleasant walking tour, and many sights worth seeing are nearby, like the Royal Palace, and the neighboring Silver Pagoda. You can also take a river cruise for a different vantage of the city. There are plenty of great restaurants and pubs along the river as well.

When it comes time to return to your guesthouse, the cyclo, a bicycle rickshaw, is a more relaxing, and even cheaper way to get there than by tuk-tuk or moto-taxi. There is somewhat of a language barrier with the drivers though, as they tend to be older and know a lot less English, or other foreign languages, than the moto-taxi drivers, so explaining your destination can be a bit of a challenge, and lead to some interesting end results. When I asked my cyclo driver for a ride to the Same Same Guesthouse, he smiled and nodded and began on his way. I was confident that he knew what I meant, but after an hour in what felt suspiciously like the wrong direction, I began to wonder. I gestured for him to pull over at a gas station, and went in and tried to explain my situation to the staff there. Luckily, they spoke some English and were able to translate to him where I actually wanted to go. They told me that he had mistaken my request and was taking me to a town some two hours away, where he thought I wanted to go. I was thankful that we had caught our misunderstanding before it was too late, but I couldn’t help marveling at the fact that he was still willing to pedal me two hours away for $2.00!! I gave him $4.00 when he brought me safely to my guesthouse and he was ecstatic.

After a couple of weeks of city living in Phnom Penh, I was more than ready to hit the beach again, but I’m glad I got to experience all that what was once known as “The Pearl of Asia” had to offer, and it’s an experience I know I won’t soon forget.

An Unforgettable Greek Island Getaway on Rhodes

2010-02-26T13:38:00.001-08:00

Greek Island Getaway – Rhodes

The Greek Islands have an island for everyone, and each one is like visiting a country unto itself. From the famed sunsets on Santorini, to the party atmosphere on Ios, to the beautiful beaches of Lefkada – you’ll find an island to suit your tastes. Rhodes has a taste of all the islands in one; sandy beaches, unspoilt villages, history, culture and night life.

I must admit I have a soft spot for Rhodes, particularly the village of Lindos. It’s where my husband proposed to me, and he couldn’t have picked a better spot to pop the question, in my humble opinion.

Set at the foot of its ancient acropolis, white sugar cube houses cluster together on the hillside, all the way down into the village proper, and all have a commanding view of the sparkling Mediterranean Sea. Lindos itself is a very popular tourist destination, with busloads of tourists arriving daily from Rhodes Town. After a couple of days there, we learned their schedules and avoided the village during those times; either hitting Lindos’s picturesque beach or lounging poolside at our hotel with a good book. Comprised of narrow, winding, cobblestone footpaths, you’ll soon see why we chose not to contend with hundreds and hundreds of backpack-sporting day-trippers to reach a favorite taverna or pub. The buses all arrive in the still cool morning hours (you’ll see loads of them parked alongside the highway) heading back to Rhodes town around lunchtime and leaving us with the village to explore all to ourselves, along with locals, sunburnt expats who’ve made this their permanent home, and others staying in the immediate vicinity.

If you’re not averse to somewhat of a climb in the Dodecanese heat, this is the best time to make your way up to the Acropolis, when you can take a wander around at your leisure without having to fight the crowds for the perfect photo-op of both the expansive aqua-marine Mediterranean panorama and the postcard-perfect view of the cubist houses climbing the hillside. You can also get some stunning photos here of the 20-columned Hellenistic stoa, from 200 BC. Donkeys are also available for next to nothing to pack you and your gear up the steep, slippery, cobblestone trail; but after watching so many of the poor creatures struggling up the hill under the weight of some 200 lb plus tourists, we just didn’t have the heart to hire one for a climb we were perfectly physically capable of doing ourselves.

Back in the village, there is certainly no shortage of pubs, tavernas, or cafes to re-hydrate yourself after your hike up to the Acropolis. The rooftop dining here is nothing short of spectacular. Fresh local ingredients, including olives, vine-ripened tomatoes, goat’s cheese and fresh made pitas, paired with unparalleled ocean views make any traveler feel as though they’re living the lifestyle of the rich and famous. This is where we fell absolutely, adoringly in love with Greece. Try a different rooftop every night, with a slightly different vantage point, and you can’t go wrong. Of special mention, of course, is Kalypso Restaurant, where my husband proposed to me. A 17th century Captain’s House turned restaurant, this isn’t just an amazing place to get engaged, it also boasts incredible sunset views, romantic rooftop dining, and delicious Greek fare. If you get the chance, try Restaurant Arhontiko as well. For a more casual experience try The Courtyard Bar, which gets fairly lively in the evenings, with a DJ spinning vintage tracks (he starts at 50’s music and changes up the decades right up until the present day as the night goes on) and a packed dance floor. A favorite of my husband’s was The Sunburnt Arms Pub, where he could catch premier league football matches and, he was ecstatic to discover, they sell genuine English Pork Pies. Of course there are plenty of beach restaurants as well, if barefoot dining as you listen to the waves roll in is what you desire.

If you want to venture out of Lindos and explore Rhodes a bit, there are plenty of things to do and see. Your hotel will be happy to arrange a rental car or scooter to explore the island with, and the roads here are easily navigated, with winding cliffside views to accompany you on your way. The eastern side of the island is home to some of the best beaches here; Kalithea Thermi, Ladiko Beach, Kolymbia and Tsambika are all worth checking out, to satisfy your inner beach bum.

If you’re looking for a little more history (and why not? You’re in Greece, after all!), Rhodes Town is a must see. Old Town is known as the largest inhabited medieval town in Europe, and a walk through here is like a stroll back in time. Take a day or two to explore Old Town, making sure to take in the Avenue of the Knights, the Temple of the Aphrodite, the many outdoor plaza dining options, (or just stop and have a Mythos Beer), and the myriad of shops and outdoor markets, selling everything from hand-made Turkish rugs to inexpensive Greek statue knock-offs.

While in Rhodes Town, consider booking an excursion to nearby Marmaris, Turkey. Here you’ll find a sprawling market that sells, among many many other things, ridiculously cheap brand name clothes, some are knock offs, some are genuine - it’s nearly impossible to tell the difference, but they’re all of good quality. You’ll also find the best salesmen I’ve ever come across; Turkish rug salesmen. We went here with the intention of purchasing one, so weren’t disappointed by the selection and range of prices. But beware, whether you intended to or not, you may find yourself lugging a cumbersome Turkish rug in your carry-on on your journey back home. It was also recommended to my husband that he shell out the approximately $2.00 Canadian and experience a Turkish Shave while he was here. He did, and declared it “the best shave he’d ever had.”

You’ll be glad to get back to your hotel in Lindos after a day of fast-paced haggling in Marmaris. I should mention, it’s a good idea to pre-book your accommodations in Lindos prior to your arrival, especially if you’re picky about location, or amenities. We booked ourselves into Lindos Gardens, which more than suited our needs. Basic, clean rooms, with no air conditioning, but with two outdoor pools, a small bar, and a restaurant that served delicious bacon sandwiches on fresh crusty rolls for breakfast, the location here was absolutely prime. Located up the hill and across the highway from Lindos, but not too far that we couldn’t walk it, we were happy to have a quiet room to retire to every evening, even if it inspired a round of good-natured whining when we contemplated the very steep trek we had ahead of us to get there. On our way back to the hotel every night, we were treated to the sight of goats performing amazing feats, like climbing 90 degree angle stone retaining walls to munch on olive branches. There was a market at the bottom of our hill, just across the highway from Lindos, that sold fresh fruit and veggies, and it became our custom each night to purchase a handful of carrots to feed the donkeys that were penned up near our hotel every night. After a few days of this, the donkeys were hee-hawing in anticipation of our arrival when they heard us coming up the hill.

I’ve yet to explore all the islands in Greece that I wish to, but I can guarantee you, Rhodes is one that I’ll definitely be returning to again. And again.

10 Great Places to Dine in Vancouver

2010-02-24T14:05:00.000-08:00

10 Great Places to Dine Out in Vancouver

Vancouver is a city that satisfies the senses. From the sight of the snow-capped mountains providing a resplendent backdrop to the city, to the sounds of the diverse live music scene, to the cedar, fir and hemlock trees that scent the breeze as you make your way around the seawall encircling Stanley Park, to the feel of the sand between your toes as you dip your feet in the ocean on Sunset Beach. Nowhere are the senses more satisfied, however, than when it comes to pleasing the palate. Vancouver is a Foodie’s delight. Largely owing to its multicultural population, one can find just about any fare to satisfy their craving. Here are just 10 of the endless list of great restaurants to try out in Vancouver, in no particular order, of course.

10. Salmon House on The Hill

This is a favorite of mine when I have visitors from overseas. Located on the hillside in the high priced real estate area of West Vancouver, it’s the perfect place to take them and show off my beautiful city; particularly on a clear, sunny day. With tiered seating, it just isn’t possible to get a bad table in this restaurant, providing every guest with stunning West End sunset views. The food isn’t something you’ll soon forget either. Specializing in our unique brand of West Coast Cuisine, the menu leans heavily on, you guessed it, salmon. If salmon, or even seafood, isn’t your thing however, there are plenty of other choices to keep you happy; such as the Roasted 7 Bone Rack of Lamb, with pomme puree and raspberry mint jus. Or the Grilled 'Kettle Ridge' Beef Tenderloin. If you’re lucky enough to see the Salmon Wellington turn up on the ever-changing menu, take advantage! Salmon House on The Hill also boasts an extensive wine list, and your server will be happy to provide pairing suggestions for you.

9. Le Gavroche

An intimate, elegant atmosphere in a refurbished two-story Victorian home in the West End, this French restaurant is the perfect setting for romantic dates, anniversary dinners, or even as a choice locale to pop the question. Rich, heady menu offerings will win over even the most jaded gourmet. With an award winning wine selection, you’ll find any pairing to suit your budget, from the less expensive Okanagan vintages to Vieux Château Certan 1928, which will run you about $5500.00 a bottle (yikes!). Seated by the dining room fireplace, sampling one of the sumptuous items from their seasonal menus, you’ll be hard pressed to find a reason to leave Le Gavroche.

8. Granville Island Market

From very very fine dining to very very casual, that doesn’t mean that Granville Island Market won’t satisfy your desire for sensational dining experiences. GI Market, has, quite literally, everything you need to create the perfect meal. Whether it be a plate of fresh, made from scratch perogies topped with a dollop of sour cream and fried onions, a delicious Indian curry with basmati rice, fresh caught seafood, or a hodge podge of items from the market to put together the perfect picnic, GI Market can definitely accommodate. One of my favorite things to do here is to wander through the market, picking out import cheeses, fresh baked artisan breads, sliced deli meats, pickled olives, and various local fruits or veggies and setting up my own little picnic on one of the benches overhanging the waterfront. Granville Island provides the atmosphere and entertainment, very talented street performers and buskers, I just sit and soak it up, along with the sun and the ocean breeze.

7. L’Altro Buca at The Buchan Hotel

Formerly The Parkside Restaurant, the owners decided to tone down the formal a notch at this West End gem, much to the delight of neighborhood regulars, who found they could only afford a night out at The Parkside once in a great while (although it was worth the price!). Now priced much more affordably, L’Altro Buca provides the same attention to detail and impeccable service as before, with a much more Italian slant on menu items. The food isn’t the only draw to this restaurant however; it’s the location and the ambience. And the Italian piazza style patio in the summer. Hidden away in a residential area of the West End; Haro Street near Stanley Park, tucked underneath The Buchan Hotel (an historic boutique hotel that’s worth taking a wander through while you’re there), the walk here is as pleasing to the eye as the food here is to the palate. They do provide valet parking if you’re coming from out of the area, as parking is at a premium in the West End.

6. Afghan Horseman

Back to more casual dining, Afghan Horseman is located on Granville Island, and has been a favorite among locals since their previous location on Broadway Street. Even if the food or service was mediocre, or even sub-standard, which it most certainly isn’t, I would still love this restaurant for the authentic Afghani atmosphere. Request one of the low tables, where you can dine cross-legged on the floor amongst a scattering of patterned silk pillows, casbah style. Similar to Persian, Mediterranean, or Middle Eastern fare, Afghan Horseman has plenty of options for those of you who are a little leery of sampling new ethnic fare. Try the horseman platter for two, and get ready to pack a whole lot of that up to go, it’s just too much to eat all in one go. They also have many excellent vegetarian choices on their menu.

5. Café de Paris

Another West End favorite, this French bistro provides an excellent location for people watching on busy Denman Street. Open for lunch and dinner, the menu here is constantly changing and is worth going back to, often. Try the house made pate de campagne or pommes frites (the best in the city) and enjoy the rich wood décor with brass furnishings while you decide on one of their carefully selected wines. Their desserts alone are worth the journey there. A friend of mine used to go there once a month for lunch and then bring one of their house made desserts, boxed up, to me at my place of work down the street. I looked forward to his lunches there with great anticipation!

4. Lupo

Departing from the West End, Yaletown’s Lupo (formerly Villa del Lupo) is housed in another refurbished 1800’s era heritage house. Fireside dining, Italian favorites, and a comfortable atmosphere keep Yaletown locals coming back here again and again. Take a wander through the house while you’re here to look at some of the classic architecture, although some walls have been knocked out to provide a more spacious dining experience since dropping the “Villa del” from their name. Lupo is in the perfect location for an intimate dinner with friends, dates, or significant others before the theatre, a concert, or even a hockey game.

3. The Teahouse in Stanley Park

There are not many restaurants in the city that can compete with The Teahouse’s location, or its view, for that matter. Located Cliffside in Vancouver’s picturesque Stanley Park, The Teahouse offers sweeping sunset views of Vancouver’s English Bay. That being said, staff here has a lot to live up to in this location, which they more than do. Consisting of impeccably prepared West Coast Cuisine, a stop here for brunch, lunch or dinner will not disappoint. Their outdoor garden patio is one of the best in the city, and staff here makes fine-diners and coffee drinkers alike feel equally welcome. Try some samplings from their small plates menu. The AAA Burger is one of the best I’ve had in a long time.

2. Joe Fortes Seafood and Chop House

A longtime Vancouver fixture, Joe Fortes has probably the best roof-top garden patio to be found in the city. Located on Thurlow Street just off Vancouver’s shopping Mecca, Robson Street, it’s not unusual to spot a celebrity or two dining on Joe Fortes famous freshly shucked oysters. Reservations are certainly recommended here as this place never seems to have a “down time”; bustling waiters, lively conversations amongst satisfied diners, and men in suits downing a quick martini or two over business lunches all add to the atmosphere here. A must try here is one of Joe Fortes signature dishes; the 3-tiered Seafood Tower.

1. La Bodega Restaurante & Tapa Bar

Spanish cuisine and hospitality at its best in downtown Vancouver. Located on Howe Street, the décor, staff, and cuisine here are so authentic you’ll feel like you’re in Spain. Featuring a varied menu of extremely reasonably priced Spanish tapas, it’s the perfect place to host a birthday, staff, or family gathering. With intimate candle-lit corner tables for two, it’s also a great date restaurant, with perfect share plates for you and your sweetheart to enjoy. Family friendly as well, kids will love trying just a little sample from each plate, ordering more plates of what they like if they wish. This charming little bodega soon becomes a favorite for everyone that stops in for a bite; repeat customers are common here.

Well, that’s just a taste, if you’ll pardon the pun, of what visitors to Vancouver have in store for them, gastronomically. It would take years to sample all that Vancouver has on offer for the hungry traveler, and our selection is ever-changing and grows more diverse by the day. I hope you find this list helpful in your search for the perfect dining experience, I know I certainly enjoyed sampling all that these delightful restaurants had to offer!

Los Ayala - A Different Kind of Mexico

2010-02-23T09:41:00.000-08:00

Just a forty-five minute drive north of Puerto Vallarta, at the foot of the Sierra de Vallejo Mountains, lies the lovely seaside fishing village of Los Ayala. Easily accessible by rental car, taxi, or bus, the drive there is half the experience, with lush, dense jungle on display alongside the highway, separated by surf towns and seaside villages along the way, as well as the occasional traditional cemetery to admire. This is not your typical Mexican vacation destination. You won’t find sprawling all-inclusive resorts here, no Hard Rock Cafes, no Planet Hollywoods, and no poolside beer-chugging competitions. In short, my kind of place.

Being new parents to a five month old daughter, it was a bit of a tough call to decide where to go on our first real family vacation. The answer came in the form of her doting grandparents. They invited us to join them on their yearly holiday to Los Ayala, Mexico, where they rent a place for two months of the year. Discovered by word of mouth, it’s the perfect place for a family vacation. Hosted by owners Manuel and Yolanda, they rent a two bedroom, two bathroom apartment in a small complex about a one minute walk from the beach. For a reasonable price, this includes your own kitchen, a courtyard pool, outdoor barbeque at your disposal, and outdoor dining area for groups of people, should you wish to entertain friends. There are a multitude of houses, apartments, and bungalows available with similar facilities in the area, and if you’re feeling brave enough to arrive without prearranged accommodations, it’s more than likely that just a short walk around the grid of dirt roads or the cobblestone street running alongside the beach through town will find you exactly what you seek.

Los Ayala is a very authentic Mexican experience, being a popular destination for families from Guadalajara and Mexico City to escape for weekend getaways. You also get your fair share of Canadian Snowbirds; retirees escaping from the dreary Canadian winters that can sometimes seem to last for years. Most of these folk have been coming here for many years running and have just as much knowledge of the area as the locals.

Having a basic knowledge of Spanish comes in handy here, as many of the locals do not speak English, which adds to the experience. Get ready to mime out many of your conversations with local shop owners, who are more than patient and willing to help you find what you’re looking for.

The half mile strip of beach that runs the length of Los Ayala makes for the perfect morning walk. Large waves not quite big enough for surfing pound the shore as pelicans beg for scraps from the prawn carts and fishermen arriving with their catch of the day. The north end of the beach is fairly secluded, while the south end plays host to a handful of barefoot dining restaurants. All are inexpensive and serve delicious Mexican fare. Hours of operation can be somewhat random though. In the short time that we were there, we couldn’t figure out a pattern to their opening and closing schedules.

A short hike through the jungle on the south end of the beach brings you to Playa del Beso (Beach of the Kiss), and Henry’s Bar, a family run beach bar that epitomizes the term “dropping out of the rat race.” Henry lives and works here with his wife and family, all of whom lend a hand where they can in running the business on this isolated bit of beach. It would be easy to spend the entire day on this pristine beach; plenty of shade or sun, depending on your preference, calm clear water, ridiculously cheap beer, fresh caught fish or prawns on the menu, and Henry’s adorable two year old daughter was delighted to entertain our baby for the duration of our visit.

Los Ayala is an extremely family friendly place, with many of the locals running out of their shops to lift our daughter out of our arms for a cuddle as we walked her through the town or along the beach. The local shops carry most everything you need for care of a young baby should you have forgotten to pack anything, like diaper cream, wipes, formula, or children’s Tylenol. Anything else that you may desire seems to arrive by pick-up truck on a daily basis, with the drivers driving around Los Ayala with a loudspeaker sing-songing about watermelons, fresh bread, camerones (prawns), and tamales. One of my favorite things was picking out mini pineapple pies and fresh banana muffins from the bread truck. However, if there is anything you are unable to find here, a fifteen minute walk brings you to the next town over, Guayabitos, which more than likely will have what you need, not to mention restaurants, discos, beach bars and shopping strips.

It’s pretty quiet in Los Ayala during the week, and even with weekend revelers busing in from other destinations, it still wraps up fairly early in the evenings. If you’re looking for a little more excitement, take a colectivo, or combi into Guayabitos or La Penita. Cheaper than a taxi (which isn’t all that expensive either), the colectivo, or combi, is a mini-bus that runs the route from town to town and drops you in a central location, along with other locals sharing the ride.
If you’re up for some shopping, don’t miss the market in La Penita on Thursday (and definitely hit Hinde y Jaime’s Bar while you’re there for some amazing 80 cent prawn or fish tacos!), or in Guayabitos on Mondays. The outdoor market in La Penita carries everything from dollar store type paraphernalia to gorgeous crafts handmade by the Huichol tribes, native to the region. Guayabitos market carries a similar selection but much less of the dollar store bric-a-brac. If you get the chance to take in a sunset while in Guayabitos, it’s worth the climb up the hill to get a 180 degree view from Vista Guayabitos restaurant, which carries a fairly decent wine selection and freshly caught and prepared seafood dishes, including lobster, if you get there on the right day.

Another destination, a little further out, but a scenic drive all the same, is the surfer town, Sayulita, which seemed downright hectic after a week of watching the waves roll in on the beach in Los Ayala. We took a taxi here from Los Ayala, which ran us about twenty dollars Canadian one way, it’s about a forty minute drive so that sounded reasonable to us. Prices can be slightly higher on the return journey, but still in the twenty to thirty dollar range.

There is no shortage of sights to take in or things to do in Sayulita. Spend the day in a beach bar watching the surfers, or wander around the plaza checking out local arts and crafts and alternative clothing stores. Take surf lessons, go snorkeling, ATV’ing, or horseback riding and then take your pick from one of the limitless award winning restaurants or cough up a few pesos for some street dining at one of the Taquerias. Like I said, no shortage of things to do here. Night life gets pretty lively here, with all the surfers that have taken up residence here mingling with short term holiday-makers.

Back in Los Ayala you’ll feel a sense of peace returning to you after the crowds, the revelers, the hard drinking spring breakers of Sayulita. No, Los Ayala is not your typical Mexican vacation destination by any stretch of the imagination, but perhaps it should be.

The Art of Relaxation in Vang Vieng, Laos

2010-02-22T09:52:00.000-08:00

The Art of Relaxation, in Vang Vieng, Laos

At first glance, you might feel deeply uneasy about being dropped off on the side of the road in the heart of, well, seemingly nowhere. The stunning views of the limestone mountains looming up around you will soon distract you from any feelings of unease, however. And just a short walk from the side of the highway brings you into the ultra laid-back, low key village of Vang Vieng.

Make no mistake; Vang Vieng is not the most convenient place to get to in a country which has the dubious distinction of being the “most bombed country in history.” Quite often it’s a welcome pit stop on the long, hot bus ride between Luang Prabang and Vientiane. It’s a 6-8 hour bus ride from the lovely Luang Prabang, if you’re coming from the North, or a 3-4 hour bus ride from the capital city of Vientiane, south of Vang Vieng. The bus ride is one of the most scenic, albeit long and winding, you’ll ever have the opportunity to enjoy. So have your camera handy. And your gravol.

There is no shortage of budget hostels, guesthouses and bungalows in Vang Vieng, usually running in the price range of about $1-$5 US, so don’t worry about booking ahead. The stilted bungalows near the river can be quite charming, but make sure to check them and the bathrooms out before committing to a night there, some can be extremely run down. Roosters crowing, chickens softly clucking and pigs snuffling their way around underneath your raised bungalow adds to the charm, some find. Of course, not everyone finds these goings on “charming” at 3 am.

Consisting of a mere three dirt roads with dirt footpaths in and around the market down to the river, one might get the impression that there’s not a lot to do in Vang Vieng, but give it a chance. Most travelers end up extending their stay here, due to the funky vibe and welcome atmosphere. Some people may attribute that to the lure of not-so-secret Opium dens or the ready availability of “Happy” or”Ecstatic” pizzas (pizzas sprinkled liberally with marijuana or mushrooms.) But if that’s not your thing, and trust me, you might decide that it most definitely isn’t after paying the hefty “fine” (read bribe) when caught purchasing goods from an undercover police officer, then Vang Vieng still has plenty for you to enjoy.

The first thing you’ll probably hear about is tubing. Do it! I cannot tell you of a more chilled out day. Anywhere. For about 115,000 Kip (just under 15 dollars Canadian) you are provided with an inner tube, a ride about four kilometers up the river, and all the relaxation you can handle in one lazy day spent floating down the Nam Song River. The striking limestone mountains provide the perfect backdrop for your day and they reverberate with cries of “Beer Laos, Beer Laos!” Locals on bamboo rafts hook your tube, sometimes whether you wish it or not, with a long bamboo pole and pull you over to sell you cheap, ice cold beer, and a joint, if you’re so inclined.

Stop along the way and explore the myriad of ancient caves, giving you a chance to get out of the sun while you’re at it. Rope swings dot the riverbanks as well for a bit of fun on the river.

The perfect topper to a day like this is relaxing on one of the many riverside patios and taking in another gorgeous sunset while you watch the local women gossip, wash clothes and try and bathe their reluctant, playful children at the water’s edge.
Night life in Vang Vieng can get pretty lively, and you won’t have any trouble finding a place to dine or to mingle with other travelers. However, electricity is not a guaranteed thing in VangVieng, and when it does go out, it can take days to restore. I highly recommend you take advantage of this! The locals have power outages down to a fine art, everything but the internet cafes remain open and in a matter of minutes the whole village is lit by candlelight and you’ll hear the first twang of a backpacker’s acoustic guitar. Stay as long as the power is out, trust me, you won’t miss it. It’s one of the most beautiful sights you’ll ever see; a village in the mountains lit by nothing but candles and the moon, with nothing but the river quietly lapping at it’s banks and the soft conversation of fellow backpackers sharing tales of their travels to accompany the guitar.

Other things to do in Vang Vieng include renting a bicycle and exploring the countryside, plenty of photo-ops along the way. Another river activity is kayaking – a little more physically demanding than inner tubing, but still something any novice can enjoy.

One final tip: if you’re making your way on to Vientiane from Vang Vieng (which can be a bit of a shocking change of pace after so much chill-time), forgo the bus for a kayak. For a minimal cost, you get two experienced, friendly, and very professional locals to guide you down the Nam Song River as you head on to Vientiane, with stops along the way for lunch cooked over an open fire on the riverbanks (try the BBQ’d bat if you’re feeling brave), cliff jumping, rapids, sampling some Lao Lao made by locals (very strong liquor!) and stops in villages along the way to see how the locals live. Once again, any novice can enjoy this, and a bus picks you up midway through the day and transports you the rest of the way to Vientiane, which is a whole other story!

Cairo - Destination, or Waystation?

2010-02-22T08:30:00.002-08:00

Cairo, Egypt – Destination, or Waystation?

For some, the chaos of Cairo; the nonsensical traffic rules, the half hazard attempts at city planning, the striking contradictions between ancient and modern, the bustling spice markets amid honking horns, shouting locals, camels and donkeys jockeying for position on the roads amongst the much abused vehicles, is intoxicating. I am not one of those people. I am more of the get in, look at the Giza Pyramids, and get out ilk.

That’s just me however. It doesn’t mean that Cairo doesn’t have a lot to offer for the experience hungry traveler. Quite the opposite, in fact.

When we arrived in Cairo, it was merely a stop along the way to our ultimate destination, a week long cruise of The Nile, which we were looking forward to with great anticipation.

I was traveling with my husband, my brother, and my sister-in-law. The four of us could only stare out the windows of our mini-bus, dumbfounded, as we made our way from the airport to our hotel. Occasionally we were rewarded with the sight of a camel loping casually alongside of us, or a donkey, plodding along with a cart stacked high with local produce. Which brings me to my first point: do not drive in Cairo. Ever. Even if you’re one of those extreme travelers that absolutely must experience everything as the locals do, this is not a good idea. If you’re booked through a tour company, as we were, a driver will probably be provided for you for the duration of your stay. If not, your hotel will most likely be happy to arrange one for you.

Driving through Cairo, one can’t help but be reminded of the grueling chariot race scene from Ben Hur. Occasionally you’d spot a pristine BMW or other luxury model amid the mayhem. It made me wonder why someone would even bother spending that kind of money on a vehicle that was most likely going to be sporting five to ten new dents and scratches by the end of the day.

I suppose if you spent enough time in Cairo, you would start to see some sort of rhyme or reason to their rules of the road, but apparently we weren’t there long enough.

After a harrowing journey across the sprawling, polluted, overcrowded city of Cairo, our hotel was, quite literally, a welcome oasis in the desert.
Le Meridien Pyramids is located minutes from the Giza Pyramids. Upon entering this five star accommodation, you can almost forget the journey it took to get you there. Soaring ceilings, cool marble floors, and friendly, helpful staff greet you upon your arrival.

Boasting five restaurants varying from local fare to, oddly enough, Tex Mex, you’re sure to find one to suit your tastes. If you happen to be lucky enough to arrive during the month of Ramadan, you’ll be treated to a poolside Ramadan buffet beginning nightly at dusk.

Equipped with a swim up bar, the pool is a welcome relief from the desert heat, with stunning views of the Giza Pyramids to complete the sense of surreality. Imagine watching the sun dip down behind the only remaining Ancient Wonder of The World every night.

Once you’ve had a night to get acclimatized to the heat and the pollution, and woken up to a panoramic view of the pyramids from your room, it’s time to plan what to explore while in Cairo.

No need to state the obvious, I suppose, but I will anyhow. The Giza Pyramids. They are everything you’ve imagined them to be after seeing them time after time on television and in the movies. Hire a guide to explain the fascinating history and local knowledge, or pick up a book that does the same and explore at your own pace. Don’t just go stand and gawk at them, or you won’t get the whole feel of what it was like in ancient Egypt and understand the monumental task of constructing the pyramids. While here you can check off “ride a camel in front of the pyramids” off your life’s To Do List. Just be cautious. If you came with a guide, let them do the negotiating for you, or you may end up coughing up a large amount of money for a very short camel ride.

Head over to The Sphinx for some fantastic photo opportunities. Having a guide here is helpful here as well. My husband, a construction buff, was extremely interested to learn the ancient methods of construction as explained by our guide. The only thing that feels a little off about The Giza Pyramids and The Sphinx is their proximity to the city suburbs of Giza. Almost right in the middle of it, actually. At the Sphinx, you can actually see a Pizza Hut across the street as you face away from it to have your photo taken.

Spend at least half a day at the Egyptian Museum. More, if you fancy yourself somewhat of an Egyptologist. It hasn’t had much in the way of updating since the museum’s foundation a century ago, but a dedicated sightseer can still find all the ancient relics and antiquities they desire. Getting out of the sun for a brief respite is worth the price of admission. Once inside, you can spend hours wandering through the exhibits and getting a feel of life in the time of Egyptian Pharaohs.
If you’re an avid souvenir collector, stop at one of the many papyrus factories or perfume factories. For a fairly reasonable rate, the perfume factory can mimic the scent of your favorite perfume or cologne and bottle it up in a gorgeous hand-blown glass bottle to take home with you. Keep in mind, their only purpose is to sell to you whatever they can, at as high a price as they can, so perhaps ask the concierge at your hotel to recommend one that doesn’t charge exorbitant rates.

Another great place to meander around for hours, souvenir shopping and people watching is The Khan al-Khalili, a sprawling market where you’ll find everything from kitschy souvenirs to Egyptian cotton clothing, exotic spices and beautifully hand-made backgammon boards. The merchants here are not too in your face, yet they’re still up for a good haggle.

Once you’ve shopped ‘til you dropped and out-pyramided yourself, it’s time for a pleasant felucca ride on the Nile. Feluccas are the ancient broad sail-boats that can be seen all along the Nile. Rent them by the hour, price includes a captain, and bring along some cold Egyptian Stella to make the ride even more enjoyable. Just one hour on the river, and you’re ready to pack up and move to Cairo – never mind the exhaustion of being a tourist in Egypt’s Greatest City.

These are but a very few of the multitude of activities available to any visitors here, one would have to spend a great deal of time here or make many return visits to see all that Cairo has to offer, and as I write this, I feel a strange desire to return to “The Mother of The World.”