THE HERITAGE TOURIST

Long-Term Audaciousness

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Fri, 25 Mar 2011 14:10:00 +0000

Even though I have been following Seth Godin for nearly five years, I am still taken aback by how pertinent is daily blog posts are to the issues with which I am dealing. In today's post, "How much can I get away with?" Seth talks about the two, far competitive edges implicit in this question. Do you get away with doing as little as possible to cut costs, reduce services or charge more? Essentially, the easy route. Or do we push toward the opposite edge of doing more, being more audacious, providing better service and being greater than great? This is the tougher route, for most.

As I finish my first full week as a fledgling museum director, I am faced with this very question. After 30-plus years, the museum is doing OK. Much of the programming, exhibits, collections management and overall vision, however, has been in statis. This past Monday, I was given the charge to develop a plan, over the next couple of months, that will get the museum moving forward again. So, all week, I've been asking myself, "How much can I get away with?"

We do need to charge more for admission. We do need to trim overhead expenses a bit. We cannot, however, reduce services. And we have to do more. Can we aim for AAM accreditation? Is that too audacious for a small, academic museum? Can we replace static exhibits with hands-on, interactive educational experiences? Can we pursue a completely different business model that brings in vendors, increases professional staff, and attracts new sources of revenue? Can we raise $2 or $3 million dollars for an endowment that will take the worry out of paying the bills?

These "big" questions are scary. I have to convince not only my boss that, yes, in fact, we can do these things, but I also have to convince a handful of very influential university administrators, the community and, most of all, my staff. Hopefully, I can be practical enough to deal with the short-term fixes and naive enough to believe the long-term "audaciousness" can be realized.

In the end, I have to be encouraged and inspired by the handful of men who looked at a desolate salt dome outside Beaumont and believed they would strike oil. They didn't ask if they could get away with it. They just did it.

Oh, yes, I am looking to get away with a lot. Stay tuned....

MORE Resolutions for 2011

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Fri, 31 Dec 2010 15:00:00 +0000

I'm usually not big on making New Year's resolutions. Self-improvement should be just as important a task in July as it is in January. I am good, however, at breaking resolutions because they usually involve denying myself something that I enjoy. Yes, in 2011, I could LOSE some weight. I could GIVE UP caffeine. I could swear LESS. I could QUIT smoking. (OK, that last one isn't so bad. I'm on attempt number four!)

However, in the spirit of ABUNDANCE, which I spoke about in an earlier post, I want to develop a list of resolutions that EXPAND the possibilities for health and happiness for me and others. So, here's a working list of "MORE" resolutions for 2011:

MORE Mindfulness of the food I eat, the body I inhabit and the planet we share
MORE Work that truly matters, both professionally and personally
MORE Advocacy for causes about which I feel deeply
MORE Connections with people that are real and sustainable
MORE Explorations into big ideas and cosmic questions

I'm sure I will think of MORE resolutions in the coming days and weeks, but this is a good start. Most of all, I wish everyone in 2011 more PEACE, LOVE, FORGIVENESS and ABUNDANCE.

Happy New Year!!!

Withstanding the Tides

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Mon, 27 Dec 2010 18:10:00 +0000

"Life is not an exact science, it is an art." - Samuel Butler

I came across Butler's quote last week, and it came to mind again as I watched the sublime documentary Rivers and Tides this morning. In it, viewers journey along with artist Andy Goldsworthy as he creates incredible natural sculptures using stone, wood, leaves, twigs, clay and even, sheep's wool. Through his art, Goldsworthy combines art, engineering, metaphysics, science and architecture to communicate our rootedness to the earth and how transient what those roots produce can really be.

One clip that particularly struck me was a wood sculpture - a hut? a dam? an inverted basket? - Goldsworthy constructed on the banks of a salmon hole in Nova Scotia. As intricate and meticulous as his work was, more important was what happened as the tide came in and began to strip away planks from the edges of the sculpture.

After watching this, I couldn't help but be struck by a comparison with a funeral barge floating out to sea. But, in this case, "the barge" slowly came apart through the force of the water surrounding it, except for the uppermost structure – the core – where the smallest pieces of wood were woven much tighter. I also thought about how much it was like some primitive hut set upon by the tide. In life, we each build our huts – some of wood, some of stone, some of gold – but with death, the superficial, the extraneous gets peeled away and left behind, and all we are left with is the tightly woven core – that work of art – of life – that truly mattered.

And now, we come to the end of another year. We have all been busy building ourselves, our families, our businesses, our political ideals, our educations, our dogmas, and our dreams. But did we build what truly matters? Did we strip away the unnecessary? Did we let go of the superficial? Are we, individually and together, weaving a core that will withstand the changing tides?

A Not-So-Austere Wish for 2011

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Wed, 22 Dec 2010 22:28:00 +0000

Photo by Shannon Conrad.

“When I use a word, Humpty Dumpty said, in rather a scornful tone, it means just what I choose it to mean – neither more nor less.”
"The question is, said Alice, whether you can make words mean so many different things.”
"The question is, said Humpty Dumpty, which is to be master, that’s all.”

-Lewis Carroll

This week, Merriam-Webster released its Word of the Year for 2010. Amidst all of our belt-tightening during this Great Recession, it is no coincidence that the word they chose is “austerity.” Defined as “the quality or state of being austere,” “an austere act, manner, or attitude,” “an ascetic practice,” and “enforced or extreme economy,” Humpty Dumpty might be right at home with the word. Not the most pleasant set of circumstances, to be sure. Individuals, corporations and governments, alike, have all had implement some type of austerity measures in the last few years. But sometimes, as in design, austerity is a good quality. Unfortunately, in 2010, austerity, at times, moved outside of economic measures and into our public discourse. While we were watching our wallets, we also tightened our political and religious belts so tight that we nearly suffocated any reasonable dialogue. Sometimes austerity is a practical measure in the face of reality, but sometimes it just belies our deepest fears.

How about we take a seat on the couch, loosen those belts a little and see what we might be able to do to end 2011 with a more pleasant word. What might that word be? I’m no prognosticator, but in the spirit of making resolutions and predictions this time of year, or just putting forth some wishful thinking, I propose the following as a good candidate:

ABUNDANCE

an ample quantity, profusion; affluence, wealth; relative degree of plentifulness.

A good synonym for austerity, for me, “abundance” conjures up images of treasure houses filled with gold, baskets overflowing with juicy, green apples, rainforests lush with flora and fauna, pantries stocked with healthy food and a few guilty pleasures, or a bank account with enough money to pay the bills, have some fun and know that a leaking roof, a broken hot water heater or a flat tire won’t force a decision between making the repairs and feeding one’s family.

While all of these images are nice, my wish for 2011 is that we find an abundance of love, forgiveness and acceptance in our world. We have made it through the first decade of the 21st century, and I think it is time that we begin to move away from the strictures of modernism or the vagaries of post-modernism toward an understanding that we share common goals, but that the paths to those goals are many. My wish for 2011 is that we continue to recognize that there are many ways to love, that we can all readily forgives our trespassers whether the trespass occurred yesterday or centuries ago, and that we can openly accept the beautiful diversity of this world and the powerful contributions each of us can make through that diversity.

So, before we let our Humpty Dumpty fall to his irreparable fate, I hope we will choose abundance over austerity – and mean every word of it.

What would be your Word of the Year 2011? What do you wish for the New Year?

No itinerary. Just curiosity.

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Wed, 15 Dec 2010 15:00:00 +0000

I have been into watching documentaries lately on Netflix. This morning, I watched a 1996 “Modern Marvels” documentary about the invention and rise of television. What struck me was the myopic determination of early television pioneers like Philo T. Farnsworth, David Sarnoff, and William S. Paley who pursued the technology with a passion. I guess that is why we still hear about them today as well as other pioneers. They realized their passion and pursued it with utmost intensity.

I thought a lot about my passion back in June before I launched this blog. I tried to imagine what I enjoy doing that no one has to tell me to do or pay me to do. Sports? Ah…no. Painting? I wish. Music? No. Fine wine? Not interested. What I found was I enjoy getting in my car, getting on the highway and taking off to discover what lies over the horizon on a good old-fashioned road trip. Most of the time, these road trips took me to historic sites, museums and small towns full of nostalgic charm.

So, I did – or at least, tried to do – what the experts said. I chose my topic – road trips to heritage sites; built my blog, monetized it, and spread the word through Twitter, Facebook, Tumblr, etc., etc., etc. Now, six months into blogging about heritage sites and personal journeys, I have found that I am passionate about so much more that I can’t quite fit in to a single blog topic. I wish I could have the focus of a Vaynerchuk or a Brogan or a Stratten, but I can’t talk about just one thing. Besides, I’m not good, and definitely not an expert, at any ONE thing. My professional life has been about being a generalist – an administrative jack of all trades. I know some accounting, but I’m not an accountant. I know some graphic design principles and can manage a decent publication, but I’m not a graphic designer. I know how to teach, but I’m not a teacher. And, since up to this point, I have allowed my professional life to stand in for a personal life, me, the person, has no one great passion. I have many. That’s why I study history. A person can study the history of almost anything.

This lack of passion has led to me not updating my blog in over three months – in addition to graduate studies, a move and trying to make a career change. At one point, I thought of developing several blogs, but, in the end, decided that’s too much work – kind of like managing multiple Twitter accounts. So, from now on, there is no one direction or topic for this blog. As “The Heritage Tourist,” I’ll continue to take road trips, but I will also do some virtual traveling to discover our shared heritage that has been passed down to us through architecture, art, music, education, craft, religion, the environment, literature, film, books, design, photography, theatre, food, politics and other “big ideas.” I’ll also spout off some about what we’re leaving to the future as its heritage. Like any good road trip, there will be no itinerary, just a healthy dose of curiosity and willingness to make a U-turn and take a detour if something catches the eye.

Perhaps, in another six months, I, or someone else, will discover a pattern among my posts, and then, I can realize what that one, great passion of mine really is.

Ready? Let’s go…

Tell me if you've found your passion. What is it? How do you know?

5 "Crafty" Vacation Ideas in the Smoky Mountains

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 14:00:00 +0000

The word “vacation” conjures up as many different scenarios as there are vacationers. Some people just want to get away from the stress of work, traffic and schedules, and relax by the beach or in a secluded mountain cabin. Others want excitement and find it in theme parks, outdoor adventures and the attractions and events of a big city. Still others want to go exploring whether it’s just down the road or in some exotic locale on the other side of the world. Whatever form they take, in the end, vacations allow us to immerse ourselves, even for a brief time, in locations, events and activities markedly different from those in our daily lives. While there is no single way to vacation, many people have begun looking for vacation experiences beyond the typical “see-do-shop” variety. Volunteer vacations, both in the United States and abroad, are becoming popular. During one- and two-week stays, volunteers help non-profit organizations and government agencies with a variety of projects, including community development, teaching and park trails maintenance.

A couple of weeks ago, I wrote about my wanting to have a different vacation experience and my choice to attend a woodturning workshop at the Arrowmont School of Arts and Crafts. While I ultimately chose to attend Arrowmont, my research turned up four other programs in the Smoky Mountains region that provide similar arts and crafts experiences:

1. Appalachian Center for Craft – If you’re looking for total immersion – and seclusion - Tennessee Tech University’s Appalachian Center for Craft might be just what you’re looking for. The Craft Center is located about six miles south of Interstate 40 near Smithville, TN. Programs include undergraduate and non-degree certificate programs, but also public workshops held throughout the year, evening, three-day and six-day workshops, and a three-week intensive held in June. Instruction is provided in blacksmithing, clay, fiber arts, glass, metals and wood. Room and board is available during the three-week June and six-day July sessions. During the Fall and Spring semesters, workshop students can choose from several motels and campsites nearby. Day visitors are welcome at the Craft Center where they can shop in the Center’s art gallery, tour the latest exhibition, have lunch and hike. There are also two annual events sponsored by the Craft Center – the Annual Celebration of Craft in April and the Annual Holiday Festival held the weekend after Thanksgiving.

2. Arrowmont School of Arts and Crafts - One of Gatlinburg, Tennessee's greatest treasures - and best-kept secrets - sits tucked away just off of the Parkway at stoplight #3. Arrowmont School of Arts and Crafts offers one- and two-week workshops for all skill levels in a variety of media. Originally founded by the Phi Beta Pi Fraternity in 1912 as a settlement school, by the 1970s, Arrowmont had become a place for artists to gather, learn and socialize. One- and two-week workshops are offered each year from May to October in clay, fiber and textiles, glass, metals and enamels, painting, drawing, printmaking, photography, woodturning and woodworking. Arrowmont also offers several “special topics” workshops, including stone work, book making and animation. Accomodations are available in both historic and modern facilities. Family-style meals are served three times each day. Many students attend Arrowmont through the school’s work study program, trading one week of work for one week of class.

3. Dollywood Craft Preservation School – If you think Dollywood is about the razzle dazzle country queen with a good helping of hillbilly hokum, you’re right – mostly. But tucked up behind the growing number of thrill rides, eateries, shops and stage shows are a group of craftspeople demonstrating blacksmithing, wood carving, candle making and more. I have found several accounts online about the school, but cannot find specific information on the Dollywood web site. Unlike the other schools, visitors to Dollywood can only take a weekend workshop in several craft areas. In some way, I can understand the "secrecy" of not wanting to advertise the workshops too much. I'm not sure the park could accommodate the thousands of people who might think they want to take a workshop, but who might not find it as fun as, say, riding the roller coaster. If you're planning a trip to Dollywood and want to try your hand at some mountain crafts without the larger expense of a week-long workshop, you can call the main number at 1-800-365-5996 for more information.

4. John C. Campbell Folk School – Much like Arrowmont, the John C. Campbell Folk School was begun to educate local residents and to preserve the mountain craft heritage of the region. The school is located in Brasstown, NC, just east of Murphy, NC. Campbell offers over 860 one-week and weekend workshops each year, according to their web site. Like the other schools, Campbell offers many crafts, like blacksmithing, weaving, woodturning and quilting. They also offer a unique variety of other heritage arts and crafts, including cooking, storytelling, dance and nature studies. Room and board is available on campus, and there are many opportunities for socializing during the week. Day visitors are welcome and can tour the school’s museum, shop, walk the campus’ nature trails, and, with reservations, have lunch with students, faculty and staff.

5. Penland School of Crafts – With a history dating back to the 1920s, Penland School of Crafts is located northeast of Asheville, NC and offers another unique learning vacation experience. Each summer, the school offers 98 one- or two-week classes in books and paper, clay, drawing and painting, glass, iron, metals, photography, printmaking, textiles, wood, and other media. In the fall and spring, the school offers eight-week “intensives,” plus several other residency programs for more serious craft students. Here, too, accommodations and meals are available, although all of Penland’s dormitory-style housing is not air-conditioned. Day visitors are welcome.

I should mention that there is another “collection” of arts and crafts schools located in New England, plus one other I found in Arkansas. Do you know of other similar arts and crafts programs in the United States or in other countries? Would you take a vacation like this?

I should also say that I am, in no way, affiliated with any of these organizations, especially Dollywood, other than being a student at Arrowmont and a visitor at John C. Campbell. I have tried to provide the most accurate information about each organization (notice there are no published costs), but please check the web site of each organization or call them for the most up-to-date information.

Historic Home Tours: One Size Does Not Fit All

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Fri, 27 Aug 2010 17:17:00 +0000

As an aspiring preservationist and historic home curator, one of the highlights of my trip to Virginia this summer was going on tours of three historic homes. When I lived in the DC area in the late 80s and early 90s, I made it to many of the essential tourist sites - the Jefferson and Lincoln Memorials, the Capitol, the Library of Congress, and almost all of the Smithsonian museums. I also spent many weekends at the National Gallery of Art. Sometimes, on these outings, I would have a companion, but just as often, I would go it alone. While in Virginia this summer, I had the pleasure of my Aunt Maggie's company on a couple of house tours. She was definitely one of the best "tourist buddies" I've had. We toured two homes together - Mount Vernon and Woodlawn Plantation. Then, I toured one other home - Frank Lloyd Wright's Pope-Leighey House - alone (Maggie had to take my cousin to a doctor's appointment). After our tours, what struck me most was not the architecture, furnishings or the stories the various docents told us, but how different the nature of three different tours were.

We started with Mount Vernon. Because of the numbers of people who tour the grounds and home, the tour of Mount Vernon was very well-organized, but somewhat regimented and impersonal. The posts and chains seen bordering the lawns in the picture above, in some sense, extend into the home itself. Visitors enter through a side door that leads into a beautiful dining room. The docent delivers her speech and one joins a line that snakes through the house giving you glimpses of porch, receiving hall, bedrooms and Washington's office. And I do mean "glimpses." Being a part of this circuitous line, one feels obliged to keep moving so as not to slow things up. (Although we did encounter one little princess of a girl whose mother had no qualms about letting her hold up the line with her toddler-sized histrionics.) Once you exit the house, there is freedom to walk the grounds, take pictures and tour the museum and education center. Now, don't get me wrong, the tour of Mount Vernon is nice. The docents know their scripts well and do their best to engage visitors with simple questions. And, of course, the house is amazing.

A few days later Maggie and I went to Woodlawn Plantation, the home of Martha Washington's daughter and George Washington, step-daughter. This tour was completely different to the one at Mount Vernon. First of all, Maggie and I were the only people on the tour. It reminded me of other historic homes where docents wait patiently - and, sometimes, desperately - for the odd visitor to arrive. After paying the admission fee and me making a quick trip outside, around the corner of the house, and down a set of stairs to the restrooms, we entered Woodlawn through the front door, which, once inside, the docent locked and barred with one of those beams you see doors locked with in the movies. For a minute, I thought we were trapped! The tour of Woodlawn was, in a word, leisurely. Because we had the docent to ourselves, we were able to ask questions and get more information than what one gets from a "canned" interpretive script. For me, one of the more interesting points the docent made was how the curators of the home had decided to reset how the rooms were cordoned off. Before, as is typical in many homes, including Mount Vernon, visitors were allowed to enter into rooms within about a three-feet by three-feet area just inside the door. Recently, the ropes had been moved to allow visitors to entire the room entirely while maintaining a proper distance from the furniture, especially the beds and chairs. (In one room, I nearly made a new exit through one of the walls, when a closet door began to open on its own. I was sure we were being visited by a ghost. The docent pointed out that the door led to offices for the staff. Whew!) In the end, the tour of Woodlawn was, as I said, leisurely and very well done.

On the same property as Woodlawn, but well enough removed so as not to compete with it, is the Pope-Leighey house, an example of Frank Lloyd Wright's "Usonian" house design. As I said, I toured this one alone, since my Maggie had to take my cousin to a doctor's appointment. (I say "alone." There were 6 or 7 in our particular group.) Again, this tour was unlike either Mount Vernon or Woodlawn. First, and most noticeably, we were allowed - or maybe, made - to sit down on chairs in the living area. To be honest, the chairs are reproductions from Wright's designs. Also, nothing was cordoned off as in the other homes. While we stayed with our tour group, the docent showed us through the house - which is much smaller than either of the previous homes - as if we were guests visiting for the first time. At each stop - bedrooms, bathroom, kitchen, dining area - she encouraged us enter completely and look around. Our docent was also the kind that, while she had a script and key points memorized, also gave us "behind-the-scenes" anecdotes about the "Usonian" houses, the previous owner and the preservation process. She also sprinkled her talk with some personal opinions. Some might find such personal interjections improper or off-putting, but I felt it spoke of a genuine and personal connection to the home, as if, in a way, it was hers.

So, three very different tours of three very different homes. What historic homes have you visited where the style of tour made an impression on you? Was the impression favorable? Or not?

An Outing Fit for a King

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Thu, 26 Aug 2010 14:00:00 +0000

On my recent trip to Virginia to visit family, I took in many sites that I had never been to, even though I had lived in the area. Toward the end of the week, my aunt had to take my cousin to a doctor's appointment, so I decided to go for a drive. I visited Fredericksburg, VA and then, headed out the King's Highway just to see what was there. I stopped for a minute at George Washington's birthplace and then, in King George, came across this great little church - St. John's Episcopal Church. What struck me was the bell tower. I have never seen one like it. Being an Episcopal church in a town named King George, I would assume the architecture is in an English style. To me, though, it looks like it has Dutch or German influences. I'll have to do some research. What do you think?

The Grand Dame of H Street, NE

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Wed, 25 Aug 2010 14:00:00 +0000

Recently, the National Trust for Historic Preservation has been running a campaign where people across the country photograph themselves with buildings and hold a sign that reads "This Place Matters." For me, the building in this photograph definitely matters. It sits on the corner of H and Third Streets, NE in Washington, DC. Originally built in the late 1800s to serve as a convent and nursing home run by the Little Sisters of the Poor, by the 1970s, Capital Children's Museum had taken up residency and transformed the building into a wonderland. I began working at the Museum in 1987 and instantly fell in love with the place. Everyone on staff work hard, none more than our executive director, Ann Lewin, to keep the exhibits and building repaired. Even then, the building was showing its age. There were many days when the elevator wouldn't work, the heat was not enough in the winter and the air conditioning kept no one cool in the summer. But we had fun, especially, I hope, the families who came to visit. There are too many special memories of the eight years I spent at the Museum to recount here - working until 3 a.m. on a new exhibit, welcoming dignitaries and celebrities, being on your best behavior while the Secret Service conducted mock tours (the building had so many nooks and crannies, it was perfect for them), and many days and nights spent with some of the most talented, creative and smart people I have ever worked with.

The Museum closed its doors in 2005 to begin the process of opening a new museum - the National Children's Museum - in a modern facility (now scheduled to be built at the National Harbor complex). When I heard the news of the Museum closing, I worried about the fate of the old building. Who would want it? Would it be torn down? Luckily, a developer saw the potential of the building, and in what turned out to be a great at example or reuse, turned the building into apartments. The developer also built two mid-rise apartments on the site - one square block.

I visited the building recently and seeing it was a little bittersweet. I am so glad it was saved from the wrecking ball, but it was little sad that will never again "my Museum."

Preservationists Rally Against Plan for “Pit” in Union Station

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Tue, 24 Aug 2010 16:03:00 +0000

How timely to my previous post on personal memories of Union Station. I agree that the proposed modifications to the Grand Hall are misguided. At one time, the Grand Hall was the waiting area for the trains. It must have been something to sit on a bench and look up at those Stoic soldiers watching over everyone. When Union Station was re-opened in the late 1980s, the first time I entered the Grand Hall, it was, for me, one those "wow" moments that one enjoys in the grand architecture of DC, much like walking into the Capitol building the first time or the Library of Congress or the original National Gallery building. While the Center Cafe doesn't "fit" with the design of the Hall, any further modern modifications should be discouraged. It is just as easy to get to the lower level via staircases and escalators just behind the Grand Hall.
Preservationists Rally Against Plan for “Pit” in Union Station

Memories of Union Station

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Tue, 24 Aug 2010 14:00:00 +0000

It is a Saturday sometime in the early 1990s. I am eating lunch at Au Bon Pain in Washington, DC's Union Station. I look up from my book and sandwich to see an elegant, dark-haired woman wearing large sunglasses and walking in my direction. I try not to stare, but there is something faintly familiar about this woman. As she passes, the recognition crystallizes. It is Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. I manage to stifle any outburst at seeing, in person, one of the most famous women of the 20th Century. The most striking thing is that she is alone; no escort, no Secret Service detail. She passes and is gone. I revel in one of those moments that occurs when one lives in a place like Washington. I finish my sandwich and decide that it wouldn't hurt to get just one more glimpse of her. I figure she is at Union Station to take a train back to New York, so I quickly, but non-chalantly, make a tour of the waiting area. There is no sign of her. Oh, well. My next stop of the day is Georgetown to see a movie, and I decide to treat myself to a cab ride instead of taking the Metro. I make my way through the great hall and out to the taxi stand. As I get in line, there, standing right in front of me, is not only Mrs. Kennedy but John and Caroline. Again, I make an attempt to stifle any outburst or personal engagement. Unfortunately, those around me don't work quite as hard. Pictures are taken. Greetings are made. One woman asks, "Are you Mrs. Kennedy?" If they are at all bothered by the attention, they don't show it. They are polite to the gawkers and picture takers - regal, almost. I am getting angry for them for the awkwardness, rudeness and intrusion. In a matter of minutes, they are in their cab and off.

That is probably my best memory of time spent at Union Station. There are many others, including after work drinks at Fat Tuesday's (They served a kind of Slurpee for adults!), lunches with co-workers down in the food court, dinners at Uno's, shopping at Brookstone's, and my own mini-film festivals at the AMC theatre. The old adage goes, "You can never go back." That is true, but the memories of some very special times will stay with me forever.

On a recent trip back to the area, I got a chance to revisit Union Station. It had been 15 years since I had seen her. She has held up well. I wanted everything to be exactly the same as I had left it back in 1995. I wanted to see my friends waiting for me. But while much was the same - the Grand Hall, Uno's, the Rice Bowl, the Indian food place where I first fell in love with pakoras, samosas and curry, much had changed. The AMC theatre where I saw numerous movies (I still have all of the ticket stubs), like Steel Magnolias, Schindler's List and Dead Poet's Society is now boarded up. Fat Tuesday's has been replaced by a diner. The Greek food vendor and the place that made the best fish sandwich are gone.

It was great to see the grand place one more time. Hopefully, it won't be another 15 years before my next visit.

Dashboard Cam: Gatlinburg Tunnel Honking

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Mon, 23 Aug 2010 14:00:00 +0000

This tunnel is on the spur between Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge, TN. I have driven through it several times and always there was someone who starting honking their car horn. Others would join in. Why? I'm not sure. I've read it is good luck. Other opinions say it's dangerous and annoying. I just thought it was funny!

Arrowmont: The Wood Studio

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Fri, 20 Aug 2010 14:00:00 +0000

One of the biggest decisions I had to make, when I decided to spend a week at Arrowmont, was which class to take. I have respectable - if, somewhat, amateur - art ability, but the kinds of classes offered was staggering - life drawing, woodturning, bookmaking, pottery, cabinetry, textiles and more. At the time, I was involved with workforce development at Lone Star College and was following discussions about the re-emergence of training in the skilled trades - carpentry, electrical work, plumbing, etc. I was also reading a book titled, "Shopcraft as Soulcraft: An Inquiry into the Value of Work." Like many American students in 1980s, I took a shop class - leatherworking - but I was not very good at it (I would usually get the leather too wet and punch right through the leather with too heavy a hand). For this adventure, I decided I wanted to be introduced to a craft - with tools...and machines. God help me! So, I chose a woodturning class. Little did I know that I had signed up with one of THE woodturning gurus, Nick Cook. Before leaving for Arrowmont, I bought a set of tools, read two books and watched a video on woodturning. I didn't want to be a completely ignorant. Luckily, I wasn't the only novice in the class - there were two girls who were just as green. (How's that for hitting the old male ego a good one?) Honestly, even the more experienced turners agreed that they had learned a lot during the class. Nick was a great teacher, letting me make mistakes and counseling me to work with "finesse and patience" - two of my least strong attributes. Our workshop assistant, Aaron Hammer, and the other students in the class were also a great help. After a couple of days trying to turn beads on practice wood and catching the tool, a skew, several times, I persevered. By the end of the week, I had turned a couple of honey dippers, a bottle stopper, a odd-looking candlestick, a plate, a bowl and mini-goblet. Not bad for a beginner. I was very proud of the work, including the practice sticks with all of the wonky beads and gouges - I call them my "totems." The Wood Studio at Arrowmont was more than I could have imagined. (I thought we would be in some hot metal building.) The (air conditioned) woodturning studio has 15 lathes, each outfitted with an exhaust fan and workbench. Students can bring their own tools or borrow a set from the school. Besides the woodturning shop, the Wood Studio has a gallery of some incredible wood pieces, a huge woodworking shop and an upstairs gallery for visitors - a group of whom got to a piece of wood I working on go flying across the shop after I caught it the wrong way with my tool and knocked it off the lathe!

In the end, my experience at Arrowmont was incredible. I haven't been able to turn since class - need a lathe and a place to put it - but that's okay. In the end, I proved to myself that I could lighten up, and with some finesse and patience, actually produce something.

Arrowmont: The Morning View

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Thu, 19 Aug 2010 14:00:00 +0000

As mentioned earlier, Arrowmont offers students dormitory-style accommodations. It had been many years since I stayed in a dormitory, but, in the end, it was all part of the adventure. I stayed in Hughes Hall, a more modern dormitory. Hughes has a great screened in porch, laundry facility, sculpture garden and an upstairs lounge - where I set up my coffee pot. (I wasn't walking all the way down the hill for coffee!) Walking down in the morning, I would come around the Red Barn and be greeted by the sun and the Smoky Mountains off in the distance. I would make my way to the Dining Hall for breakfast and then, on to the wood studio. After dinner, it was time to face the walk back up the hill. And it was a big one for this flatlander from the Texas Gulf Coast! I learned to take it slow and steady in order to make it back to the dorm. I probably should have walked it faster and multiple times to work off the delicious meals we served!

Arrowmont: The Staff House

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Wed, 18 Aug 2010 14:00:00 +0000

Above is the Staff House at the Arrowmont School of Arts and Crafts. It was here, on the lawn, that everyone gathered Fourth of July night to watch the fireworks show just over our heads. Adjacent to the Staff House is the Dining Hall. I joked before going to Arrowmont that I was off to "big kids camp," and with the dormitories and dining hall, it did sometimes feel like camp. Everyone kids that the dining staff "force feed" students three meals a day. They definitely laid out a great buffet. There was always plenty to eat and a very family-like atmosphere, sitting down at group tables to get to know fellow students.

Arrowmont: The Red Barn

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Tue, 17 Aug 2010 14:00:00 +0000

One of Gatlinburg, Tennessee's greatest treasures - and best-kept secrets - sits tucked away just off of the Parkway at stoplight #3. Arrowmont School of Arts and Crafts offers one- and two-week workshops for all skill levels in a variety of media. Originally founded by the Phi Beta Pi Fraternity in 1912 as a settlement school, by the 1970s, Arrowmont had become a place for artists to gather, learn and socialize. I have been to Gatlinburg several times over the years, but never knew about Arrowmont - it's literally right on the Parkway - you just have to know where to look! While thinking about a vacation this year, I had planned to go to Gatlinburg, but didn't want to just be a tourist again. I thought about volunteering somewhere or taking a class. A basic web search for "gatlinburg craft classes" brought me to Arrowmont's web site - and I was hooked. The campus not only has great studios, but also provides accommodations and meals.

One of the most recognizable - and historic - buildings on campus is the Red Barn (above). It has had many uses in the past and currently serves as one of the dormitories for students. I would have stayed in the Barn except it has no air conditioning. There were a couple of cool nights the week I was there, but toward the end of the week, it got warm and humid. Here's some more about the Red Barn from the Arrowmont web site:

"The Red Barn was built in 1923 and served its purpose then as a model barn where boys of the Settlement School were taught the care of livestock. Later, the structure housed the first movie theatre in the Gatlinburg area. In 1959 the barn was renovated into housing for students who attended the summer Craft Workshop. The front half of the hayloft was retained as it originally was built to be used as a lounge called the Owl's Nest. Finally, in 1999, the Red Barn was remodeled once again to accommodate Arrowmont's continuing growth and expansion. The building is still used as housing for students participating in the School's workshops, but the structure was fortified and upgraded."

Recently, students from the University of Tennessee-Knoxville completed a digital history project about the Settlement School, Phi Beta Pi and Arrowmont. Here is a great picture of the Red Barn in 1956.

Gatlinburg Fireworks

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Mon, 16 Aug 2010 14:00:00 +0000

I was fortunate to arrive at the Arrowmont School of Arts and Crafts on Independence Day. After dinner, students, faculty and staff spread blankets on the lawn in front of the Staff House and watched a spectacular fireworks display right above our heads. It was great. Unfortunately, I ran out of battery power before the finale - one of the best I've ever seen.

Flashback Friday: Nashville 2009

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Fri, 13 Aug 2010 14:00:00 +0000

In keeping with the Tennessee theme this week (and since my last posts), I thought I would share a photo of an unexpected find in downtown Nashville. On a sunny, cold and windy December day, I had parked my car in an underground garage with the intention of visiting the Country Music Hall of Fame. When I came up to street level, I was greeted by this fountain and the beautiful Schermerhorn Symphony Center.

The Star of the Show: Miss Dolly

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Thu, 12 Aug 2010 14:00:00 +0000

One cannot visit the Sevierville/Pigeon Forge/Gatlinburg area and not feel the presence of its most famous daughter - Dolly Parton. Whether you get the chance to catch a glimpse of Dolly in person while on one of her tours of Dollywood or at the annual parade in Pigeon Forge, it really doesn't matter. She is everywhere. From billboards to brochures to a boulevard, her name and image are everywhere - even on the courthouse grounds. The statue of Dolly was sculpted by a local artist named Jim Gray. It was unveiled by Dolly on May 2, 1987, and continues to be appointed stop for any Dolly fan - me included.

A Trip into "Old" Sevierville

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Wed, 11 Aug 2010 15:31:00 +0000

I'm not sure if the locals would make the distinction between "new" and "old" Sevierville, but during my recent trip to the region, I could definitely see there was so much new that one wonders if the old and the historic will survive. Since I was staying in Gatlinburg, I started out fairly early to drive to the courthouse square in Sevierville. I really wanted to visit their history museum, but found it closed - on Saturday, no less. The courthouse is a grand building that more than competes with the newer, flashier construction on the Parkway. After reading about the courthouse's history, I found that even in Sevierville the current courthouse, built in 1894, barely escaped urban renewal in the 1960s:

"In the 1960's, concern was expressed over courthouse overcrowding and its age. Some wanted to tear down the building and construct a modern, contemporary building. Thanks to the efforts of county historian Joe Sharp, the courthouse was preserved by a vote of 13 to 11."

Luckily, the courthouse survived and should remain the centerpiece of Sevier County's history. To the communty leaders in Sevier County, I offer a friendly suggestion. As your area grows to meet the demands of a robust tourism industry, you should be as focused on promoting the heritage of the area - not just on the Internet, but in museums, heritage sites and living history villages. I learned a lot this time about the area's history, and it is something that should be shared more vigorously with visitors.

Hidden Gatlinburg

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Tue, 10 Aug 2010 14:00:00 +0000

Amid the spectacle that is the Parkway in Gatlinburg, TN lay many hidden gems, including the Gatlinburg First Methodist Church (above). Gatlinburg also has several city parks. I visited Mynatt Park and found a wonderful, quiet place where families could have a picnic, wade in the mountain stream or let kids run off some extra energy. Right on the Parkway but tucked in behind a major trolley stop and busy intersection rests a major part of Gatlinburg's history - the Ogle Family Cabin.

"In 1807, widowed Martha Jane Huskey Ogle, at age 46 or 47, came to her late-husband's 'Paradise' with her five sons and two daughters, her brother, Peter Huskey, and his family. From William's oral directions, they located his hewed logs, completed the cabin, and started a new life. Great grandson Andrew Ogle and his family were the last of the clan to live in the cabin, abandoning it about 1910."

Probably one of the greatest hidden gem is the Arrowmont School of Arts and Crafts. I have been to Gatlinburg several times and never realized the school and its craft store, Arrowcraft, were right there at stoplight #3. (Hint: look for the driveway next to Cooter's Barbecue.) Another great find is just a short drive east of town. The Great Smoky Arts & Crafts Community offers visitors many shops were local craftspeople sell their work. Finally, the greatest find this trip was locating a bypass that takes you from the west side of town up the Historic Nature Trail to Cherry Orchard Road to Baskin's Creek Bypass and puts you out on Gatlinburg's East Parkway. So, the next time you're in Gatlinburg be sure to take in all of the latest attractions on the Parkway, but then, take some time to explore the "hidden Gatlinburg."

Rolling Along Through the Great Smoky Mountains

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Mon, 09 Aug 2010 14:00:00 +0000

July 2010 - Shot this video while driving through the Great Smoky Mountains National Park on my way to Gatlinburg, TN and the Arrowmont School of Arts and Crafts. I had never taken the route through Lenoir City, Maryville & Townsend, but, per instructions from Arrowmont, it turned out to be a much nicer ride than trying to get through the traffic in Sevierville and Pigeon Forge.

The Ups and Downs of Gatlinburg, TN

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Tue, 06 Jul 2010 14:00:00 +0000

Driving into Gatlinburg, TN is like entering a real-world amusement park. You're not sure if the buildings are real or just fake fronts like on a movie set. The lamp posts have carefully tended baskets of bright pink, red and yellow flowers hanging from them. Some of the attractions literally reach out onto the sidewalk to draw you inside. One has to wonder if a team of gardeners, street cleaners and polishers descend on the city during the witching hour to spruce up the place while unsuspecting visitors sleep off their zombie-esque dazes.

There is another side to Gatlinburg, though. First, there is the traffic. Mini-vans, cars and trucks filled with those zombie tourists trying to take it all in while hunting for their hotel. Every time I come to Gatlinburg it seems the traffic gets worse...or am I just getting older...and less patient? Once the zombies get settled and make their way on foot to the Parkway then one enters a whole other world of sudden stops, sidewalk blocks and slowpokes.

Despite all of the traffic - both auto and foot - Gatlinburg is a wonderful place, and one does not need to spend of his or her time on the main strip. You see, this little mountain hamlet has its secrets; back road loops that, if you can find them, let you bypass the Parkway; craft shops, restaurants and lodging to the east and less-crowded part of town; and different routes into the mountains that serve as alternatives to the main roads into the Great Smoky Mountain National Park.

I'll continue to visit Gatlinburg for its charm, its history and its traditions. Hopefully, I will never get too old or too impatient to appreciate both its upsides as well as downsides.

Photo Favorite: Smoky Mountain Road

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Sat, 03 Jul 2010 14:00:00 +0000

A shot from one of the pull-offs in the Great Smoky Mountains. Being just after Christmas, traffic was heavy and slow. It seemed I was spending more time watching out for the car in front of me than enjoying the view, so I pulled off for a few minutes. This isn't one of the "great" pull-offs, but it was enough for me to take in the scenery for a few minutes before creeping on up the mountainside.

Photo Favorite: Dollywood Express

noreply@blogger.com (MARK) — Fri, 02 Jul 2010 14:00:00 +0000

A shot of the Dollywood Express train at Dollywood. I'll share other photos of Dollywood another time. I just thought this one turned out well. I used the sepia setting on my little Kodak digital.

(Disclaimer: Though I wish it wasn't true, I am not affiliated with Dollywood, in any way, and received no compensation for posting this information.) Copyright 2010 Mark C. Osborne, III. All rights reserved.