the toolbox - the diesel and truck mechanic forum

Paccar DAVIE4 diagnostic program problem

2020-10-18T18:44:00.009-05:00

Did you buy and install the Paccar DAVIE4 diagnostic program, but can't get it to work on 2016 and later Peterbilts and Kenworths? Does it identify the vehicle, but won't display codes or data items?

If so, this post may help.

Thank you for checking this post out. It outlines the frustrating process I went through and the lack of help and information available.

Getting help to get the program to work, proved as frustrating as the solution was simple. Hopefully this post will keep someone else from having to go through the same process I did.

Here's the story.

DAVIE4 was downloaded from the Paccar site, installed, and licensed.

After installation and updating the program, I tried it on a 2016 Kenworth tractor. The program successfully identified the vehicle, and the "vehicle check" button seemed to scan. This brought up a home screen with options for diagnostic functions as shown below. Note at the bottom of the screen, the vehicle vin and engine model.

When the "vehicle check" button was clicked, the following screen appeared. Note the red connection blocks indicating no connection between the engine and aftertreatment system, to the program.

Clicking the vehicle icon on the upper left took me back to the home screen with the diagnostic options. When the "monitoring" button was clicked, this screen came up. The options were grayed out, and when any option was clicked, nothing happened.

Obviously there was a functionality problem.

I called Paccar tech support, and their answer was that I was using an older Nexiq interface, and that the program required the newer Nexiq2. I bought the new interface and installed the drivers for it. The results were exactly the same. I checked again for updates to Davie 4 and Nexiq drivers.

Another call to tech support had them conferring with software engineers, who came up with the idea that it was a problem with the vehicle I was connected to. I explained that between myself and another tech, we had tried it on several Paccar products, with the same problem every time. They indicated I should hook up to another truck and see what happened. I did so, with predictable results. The next tech support person I talked to suggested I attend a class on how to use the program.

Over the next several weeks, when I had a chance to work on it, I repeated calls to tech support, called the company we bought the license from several times, rechecked the laptop settings per the installation guide, and was promised calls back that never happened.

Every call to tech support started the same way. "What version of Davie4 have you got?" "What interface are you using?" "What are the interface settings?"

One support person had me send him a log file and he and two others requested a screenshot of the grayed-out page. I asked if they could hook to my laptop remotely and look at things, they said they couldn't do that. I had a feeling they didn't know how.

I finally gave up on DAVIE tech support and called support for the interface manufacturer, Nexiq. The tech there connected to my laptop remotely and had the answer literally in 20 seconds. "You aren't using a crossover cable." he said. A what? He explained that starting in model year 2016, Paccar (and Volvo) moved powertrain traffic from CAN 3 to CAN1, so a cable is needed to reposition the powertrain data to be readable to the interface. He gave me a part number for the Nexiq cable, (#406004) and said a version is offered by Paccar and other manufacturers. Shown below is a similar one we bought on eBay for $70.00.

Follow this link: crossover information for more information on the change and several more cable options. The first part of the page concerns the newer green connector. If you scroll down you will find information and crossover options for the newer Paccar products.

When the cable arrived, I connected to a 2016 Kenworth and the program finally worked. The vehicle connection page came up showing a connected truck as shown below. The orange box between V CAN and connector means there are codes present.

Codes display on another page as shown below.

So, that's my story on this problem. In retrospect, I maybe should have pursued the possibility of a connectivity problem earlier, but we just haven't worked on that many late model Paccars at our shop, until lately.

I would think that somebody, maybe the company we bought the license from, Paccar tech support, or the software engineers, should have been able to offer the answer in short order. Especially four years after the change. I often had the feeling that they were more interested in getting me off the phone, than actually helping.

Also surprising was the fact that myself and another tech looked online for a possible solution, and found no information on the problem, and very little on DAVIE4 in general.

So I hope this post helps somebody, and so long until next time.

Bruce

Fuel Pressure Regulator Basics

2019-02-26T19:34:00.000-06:00

Caterpillar C7 fuel pressure diagnosis.

This post concerns how fuel pressure is developed and regulated. I’m writing it after getting a fuel pressure problem in the shop the other day. It was a Caterpillar C7, EPA 04 model. The 3116/3126/C7 Cat engines have the same type HEUI fuel system as the Navistar DT/EGR/Maxxforce engines. In fact, Cat and Navistar developed the system together. The fuel system is (relatively) low pressure, and the injectors are actuated with high pressure engine oil.

The symptoms on this Caterpillar C7 were a long crank to start, under all circumstances.

Hot or cold, initial startup or after road time, it cranked 15 to 20 seconds or even more, before starting. A warm engine should start almost instantly.

Even before scanning it for codes I had a feeling I was dealing with a fuel problem. However, I’ve learned the hard way that it’s best not to make assumptions until I see evidence. There was a code for low fuel pressure and none for injection control pressure, so I was comfortable starting with the fuel system.

Checking fuel pressure on this engine was easy – there is a Compuchek port on the filter base, so an adapter just snaps onto the port. When I cranked the engine the fuel pressure built slowly, taking 15 seconds or so to build to spec, and the engine started. After it was shut off, the pressure dropped to 0 within a few seconds.

Fuel pressure is regulated on pump output.

To address a fuel pressure problem, you first need to know how pressure is developed and regulated. These same principles apply to any hydraulic system, whether it’s power steering, auto trans, or engine oil supply. If you don’t understand how it works, you are destined to just replace parts one by one, hoping you replace the right one before the customer’s money runs out.

The first principle is that PUMPS DON’T PUMP PRESSURE! Pressure is developed by a restriction in the pump output. Think of a garden hose. With the end of the hose open and water flowing, there is almost no pressure in the hose. If you put your thumb over the end you can feel the pressure build and the water stream comes out harder. The same principle applies when making fuel pressure. Restrict the flow, and the pressure goes up.

Caterpillar C7 Fuel schematic

One of the most common misconceptions is that fuel can be regulated on the supply side, in other words on the pump input side. If you restrict on the pump suction side such as the fuel pickup it will starve the pump, like ice in the pickup line or a restricted separator. This may also cause low fuel pressure, but the point is that pressure is regulated on the pressure side, and fuel must FLOW THROUGH the regulator to control and limit pressure.

Fuel can be returned back to the tank, or to the suction side.

Depending on the system, fuel after the regulator can be routed back to the tank or to the suction side of the system. This Cat C7 and the late, great Detroit Series 60 route it back to the tank, through the regulator on the back of the head. Older Mercedes 900, Volvo, and some Navistar engines return it back to suction, or pickup side. The advantage to returning fuel to the tank is that any air getting into the system, like during filter changes, is quickly bled off to the tank. Returning to suction means any air needs to go through the injectors, and it sometimes takes lots of time and effort to get an engine running right after a filter change or especially after running out of fuel. Air in the fuel can lower indicated fuel pressure, because the air is being compressed, instead of properly pressurizing the fuel.

Modern high-pressure common rail systems differ in that there are actually 2 fuel systems, a low-pressure system and a high-pressure system that supplies the injectors. Here, the two systems need to be diagnosed separately to see which is causing a problem. The low-pressure system is controlled like the traditional unit injector systems like on the C7.

The C7 application had a Racor separator with the same size line in and out, so it was a simple matter to bypass the unit by taking the lines off and connecting them together. This showed no improvement. Looking in the fuel tank with the engine running, no bubbles were emitted from the return, so no air was being sucked into the system. There was no fuel smell or overfilling of the engine oil, so it wasn’t a leaking injector. The only other realistic possibility was a leaking or stuck open regulator. This was supported by the fact that fuel pressure dropped off so quickly after the engine was shut off.

The regulator on the C7 is on the rear of the cylinder head.

Removing it for inspection was easy, just had to crawl under the truck and wedge myself up by the transmission. (No doghouse in a Freightliner M2)

The problem was obvious. The hole for the check valve was worn oversize and the end of the valve was sticking out of the valve body. Replacing it cleared up the long crank and the engine started repeatedly after a few revolutions, hot or cold.

C7 fuel regulator. Failed (left) and replacement.

C7 fuel pressure regulator design has two parts.

The design of the regulator is interesting, with two parts. The upper part is a check valve with a very light spring that holds some pressure in the head when the engine is shut off. The lower part regulates fuel pressure during operation. The regulator plunger has a tiny pinhole in it. When the check valve failed to seal with the engine off, the fuel leaked through the pinhole, into the return. Thus, zero fuel pressure seconds after shutdown. I can only guess at the purpose of the pinhole, maybe to prevent hunting at idle or to dampen regulator oscillation.

Caterpillar C7 fuel pressure regulator

Detroit Series 60 fuel pressure regulator has two parts.

The old Series 60 regulator is worth mention here. Its fuel system is much like the C7. On the back of the head is an elbow on the fuel return port. The regulator is screwed into this elbow. These regulators are known for problems, not necessarily with the regulator itself. The elbow in the head looks just like a regular brass pipe elbow, but it’s not. It has a small (I think .02 in.) orifice in it. This hole actually regulates the fuel pressure at higher engine loads and is exactly the right size to trap pieces of injector seals after an injector change. When the hole is plugged the engine may run, but not well and won't have any power.

2006 MBE 4000 Hard Start and Engine Miss

2017-04-21T23:05:00.000-05:00

I was recently involved in a repair of a 2006 Mercedes MBE 4000 with a hard start problem.
The customer said it wouldn't start without ether, and when it did run it didn't idle very well. The check engine light was not on until I got the truck into the shop.

I went out on the lot and tried to start it, and couldn't get it going by myself. It took one of the other guys to feed it ether while I cranked it, and finally got it to start and run well enough to get it into the shop.

I hooked up our Bosch scanner and pulled codes for #1 and #2 injectors, that became active while the engine was running. I then hooked up the Detroit program to verify the results and run any tests that were needed. I usually hook up the Bosch first because it is often less messing around to get running and check for codes. Detroit verified the injector codes, then I did a cylinder balance test showing a higher torque deviation on those cylinders.

I wasn't convinced two faulty cylinders could cause the hard start I was experiencing, especially seeing as the Mercedes has a unit pump injection system. Each cylinder has its own unit pump running off the camshaft and as far as I understand the system, the injectors are like old-school nozzles that just open at a given pressure. Granted they are trimmed electronically, but I needed more proof that they were the source of the issue.

Fuel aeration is indicated by air bubbles in the fuel returning from the engine to the tank.

Next I looked in the fuel tank. The fuel looked good and there was plenty of it, but while the engine was running a problem was obvious. The fuel return could be clearly seen near the bottom of the tank, and it was emitting a steady stream of air bubbles. it looked like when you were a kid and you blew bubbles in your milk with a straw. That much air coming back from the fuel system was doubtless the cause of the hard start.

Just to cover all bases I checked the fuel pressure. This is easy on this application, as there is a compu check fitting on the filter canister. A special connector like a hydraulic coupler goes on the fitting for a quick, no mess pressure check. The fuel pressure was approximately to spec at idle and at high idle. Note here that high idle on a diesel engine is no load, pedal to the floor.

Find the source of fuel aeration start by eliminating the fuel tank and pickup line and running the engine off a can of fuel.

On this engine that is an easy matter. The fuel lines to and from the separator are regular nylon airline, so I just disconnected the one to the tank, stuck a tight fitting piece of rubber hose to it, and stuck it in a bucket of fuel. after a few minutes of running the fuel return was still producing air, so I took the line off the other side of the filter housing and ran the engine with the filter bypassed. It still made air, so I knew the problem was neither in the tank, the pickup line to the separator, nor the separator itself. The rest of the fuel system has hard plastic lines with banjo connections, so it would be harder to check.

Check the lines and fittings between the filter housing and the transfer pump for leaks that could be sucking air.

We have an electric pump we use for transferring fuel and pumping out tanks, so I used that to pressurize that part of the system. This would pressurize the whole system up to the regulator at the rear of the engine, but the only thing I was interested in was the suction portion from the filter to the pump. This test again showed no leaks.

Another possibility was that an injector was stuck open and cylinder compression was getting into the fuel circuit. Luckily under each valve cover is a banjo connection for the return fuel from each injector, feeding a line that routes back to suction fuel. It was an easy matter to remove the valve covers and remove the banjo bolt at each injector, one after the other, while someone cranked the engine. A stuck injector should emit air from its return, but again this test proved negative on all cylinders.

The only other possibility left for air entry, or fuel aeration, was the fuel pump.

It is a mechanical unit mounted on the front cover, so if the pump's front seal was bad it could suck air there. Unfortunately there was no easy was to test the pump, other than just changing it out. I did so, which took about an hour, and started the engine. It seemed to start fairly well. but there was still quite a bit of air coming from the return even after a few minutes of running, and the engine still ran rough. During a short test drive, however, it smoothed out and when I got back to the shop there was no longer and air coming from the return.

A quick scan showed that the injector codes had gone inactive, and stayed away after being cleared. Evidently the codes were due to the air in the system. Fuel enters the head at the front, so the air affected the front two cylinders the most. The engine started immediately hot and cold, so I pronounced it fixed.

Thanks for reading.
Bruce

DDEC5 Engine Miss and Code 61

2017-03-05T17:28:00.000-06:00

Hello. This post concerns a recent repair I did on a customer's Detroit Series 60 DDEC V.
The truck came in with the check engine light on and a miss.

One of the other guys scanned it and found a dead miss in #1 cylinder, and an active code 61, FMI 0 for cylinders 1 and 3.

Code 61 FMI 0 is injector response time too long.

The code descriptor for this is the injector response time is too long, and using the Detroit diagnostic program I found the code for #3 became active when the engine was running, and that injector response time was about .63 seconds as opposed to a consistent .79 to .82 for the others. There was also an obvious miss while running.

The Mitchell information system gave very little diagnostic information for the code, other than saying it could be a wiring or injector problem. I didn't really need to waste time reading just for that information.

I figured I would start by checking harness continuity from each injector to the harness connector at the left rear of the engine. When I unplugged the connectors from the injectors I found each connector full of oil. I doubted whether that could be a problem; injector connectors on especially the pre-EGR DT466 always have oil in them whenever I work on one of those, but there was nothing to lose by finding out.

I blew the oil out of the injector connectors with shop air, then cleaned both the connectors and the pigtails up by spraying them with electrical contact cleaner.

Cleaning oil out of the connectors removed the active code 61.

After plugging the connectors back in, I started the engine and monitored it with the laptop.
The miss was now gone and all injector response times very close on all cylinders. The injector codes didn't come back after being cleared. I ordered an injector harness for installation the next day.

The harness took about and hour to install, then another hour to button up the valve cover and put the engine compartment back together. The engine ran well and a test drive confirmed the repair.

Engine oil can insulate an electrical connection.

Now, some expert is bound to comment on this post and say it is impossible for oil in the connectors to cause a miss or an injector problem. However, oil is actually a pretty good insulator, and the oil may only have been part of the problem. I assume that the pins in the injector pigtails were a little loose, allowing oil to get in the contact area and causing resistance across the connection.

At some point in your career you stop always trying to figure out exactly why doing something remedied a problem. If what you do causes the problem to go away and the truck doesn't come back with the same problem, call it fixed and move on.

Thanks for reading, and check back soon.
Bruce

Freightliner FB65 with dash light on

2017-01-29T18:04:00.000-06:00

This post concerns a dash light problem on a Freightliner FB65 bus.

Hello, all.
I wanted to share a kind of a strange problem I recently ran into on a customer bus. It was an early 2000's model with a C7 and Allison trans.

The vehicle came in for a service, a dash light flashing, and a battery drain issue.
After the service I addressed the light flashing on the dash. At the top of the gauge cluster a light that said "PCM DIGN" was flashing what seemed to be a 46 code. (4 flashes, a pause, then 6 more flashes)

What does a light flashing "PCM DIGN" mean?

After a little thought I figured the acronym meant "Powertrain Control Module D Ignition". A search of Mitchell repair info, then an online search turned up no information on the light or the issue.

As the bus was a 2003 model I doubted that it actually had a powertrain module and figured I was looking at a transmission module power issue. The license on our Allison software had expired but neither the Bosch scanner nor the DG program would show any trans codes, which could be an indication of a problem with the module power.

I decided to start with a visual check of the trans module connection. Often the module is above the transmission, but I had to trace the wire harness from the trans, and finally found the module above the fusebox on the passenger side of the dash.

Check for power at the transmission module and fuse panel.

Batt power to the module was supplied via an inline fuse off a fusebox power stud, and I had power there. On the bottom row of circuit breakers was one marked something like "LOW BM/BK LPS/TRANS MODULE". That took some head scratching, but I figured it meant low beam and brake lamps and trans module. That's weird. Not only that the module is protected by a breaker instead of a fuse, but that the manufacturer would put lights on the same circuit with module power.

When I turned the headlights on and pulled the breaker the lights went out though, so that circuit seemed OK. Odd thing was when I plugged the breaker back in the flashing PCM light on the dash was out and didn't come back until I cycled the key back off then on. Weird. Maybe unplugging the breaker reset the module somehow.

I decided to leave that problem alone awhile and look into the battery drain issue. All the service writer could tell me was that the customer requested we check for a draw off the batteries, so I surmised they had trouble starting the bus at least once. That was reinforced by the inactive low volt codes I saw when I scanned the truck.

The FB65 bus battery drain turned out to be a failed alternator.

There was no significant draw with the key off, but the batteries were not fully charged. A check of the alternator found it was doing nothing, at least at idle. After charging the batteries passed the load test, so I changed out the alternator.

When I started the engine to check the new alternator. the flashing dash light was out. A test drive confirmed the repair.

So I can kind of understand how the low system voltage due to the failed alternator could cause the PCM light to flash, but I would think that due to the lack of a voltmeter on the bus, there would be a warning light for the charging system. But I guess a manufacturer that would put headlights on a module power circuit would do some other strange things, too.

Bruce

Worst ABS Module Ever

2017-01-22T16:12:00.000-06:00

A customer's 2001 Sterling salt spreader has a failed ABS module.

Hello everyone. I just wanted to show a quick pic of the an ABS module I came across a couple of days ago.

This module is in the worst condition I have aver seen on a truck.

The vehicle in question is a 2001 Sterling sand spreader which is a former county or municipal truck now owned by a private company.

DOT inspection finds the ABS light doesn't prove out.

A DOT inspection found that the ABS light failed to prove out. In other words, the light would not come on with the key on. Fuses were good and I seemed to have power everywhere, the bulb was good, so I went under the truck for a look.

I have seen Wabco modules with cracked cases due to corrosion expansion, but have never seen one with the circuit board completely exposed. Obviously the ABS hasn't worked for awhile.

After I removed the connectors from the module to check their condition, the ABS light came on and remains lit. Two of the pins in one connector will need replacement, as they broke off the module and are stuck in the connector.

I apologize for the poor quality of the pic; it was dark under there.

Needless to say, the ABS on this truck didn't work.

Eliminating wind noise and leaks on 4200/4300/4400 Doors

2016-12-26T13:36:00.000-06:00

Today I want to post an easy way to eliminate wind noise and leaks on 4200/4300/4400 doors.

Nearly all 4200/4300/4400 cab doors will develop wind noise and/or leaks at the top of the door. Wind noise can become obtrusive to the driver and occupants, and sometimes daylight can even be seen at the top of the door while at highway speed.

Methods such as extra foam weatherstrip usually fail to solve the problem and are unsightly. New hinges are also not the solution.

Luckily the solution the is simple and easily done. It is an OEM specified fix, although not widely known among dealers.

Merely make up a ¹/₈ inch thick steel shim to the pattern shown, and insert it between the lower hinge and the body. It is best to install the shim with the door shut and latched, so nothing needs to be adjusted after installation. Open the hood and the hinge bolts can be loosened, then a pry bar used to give clearance to drop the shim in behind the hinge.

Using galvanized or painted steel will keep rust streaks from appearing.

put this shim behind the lower 4300
hinge to eliminate wind noise

Believe it or not, installing this shim is all it takes to eliminate leaks and noise.

This assumes that the hinges are not worn out and that the weatherstrip is reasonably good.

DT466E No Start help, part 2

2016-12-15T15:23:00.000-06:00

A very important thing to check before going any further is the engine oil level. If it was checked yesterday, check it again. If it was checked an hour ago and you are sure it is good and don’t think you need to check it, check it anyway. If there are no engine leaks and no oil on the ground, check it anyway. If the gauge shows oil pressure while cranking, check it anyway. Many times I have had to diagnose a no start and found the only problem was a low oil level. If there is oil on the tip of the stick there is probably enough to start but any time it is any lower than that, could be an issue.

The DT466E HEUI engine requires oil to fire the injectors.

Remember that the HEUI system requires engine oil to fire the injectors. Especially in cold weather, a low oil level may not keep enough oil in the oil pan to supply the system. If the oil level is unexpectedly low and there are no leaks, there are two places it can go. The oil seal in the turbo may have failed. Take the boot off the turbo outlet and check for oil there. If that is where the oil is going and a significant amount has been lost, the air-to-air in front of the radiator will need to be taken off and drained. If there is lots of oil in the air-to-air and it gets to the engine the engine will burn it like fuel and cause the engine to over rev, causing serious damage. The turbo could also be leaking oil into the exhaust. You could take the exhaust pipe off the turbo but if lots of oil is being lost it should be seen at exhaust system joints and the exhaust pipe outlet.

If there is no oil coming from the turbo, check the fuel in the tank. If it is black or dark grey in color and opaque, injector oil seals have probably failed and the injectors will need to be removed to replace them. (this last is for pre-2004 non EGR motors).

This is a good place to caution against excessive use of ether to attempt to get an engine running. A small amount of ether doesn’t hurt anything, and sometimes is the best method to get an engine going without burning out the starter. However, if the high pressure pump is not getting oil from its reservoir, trying repeatedly to run the engine on ether will burn the high pressure pump up. Ether has little diagnostic value for a diesel engine anyway; any engine with adequate compression should run on ether.

Confirm that oil is getting to the high pressure pump reservoir.

Oil in the high pressure reservoir can be confirmed by removing the oil temperature sensor next to the high pressure pump. A pint or so of oil should drain out of the sensor hole. If not, the engine oil pump is not delivering oil or there is a bad leak inside the front cover. Both of these problems are beyond the scope of this manual.

If the above items check out, low fuel pressure should be suspected. Follow Diagnostic Routine 1: Fuel system check.

If fuel pressure is to spec, follow Diagnostic Routine 2: ICP check, even if no active or previously active codes are set for that system.

DT466E EGR engines start hard in cold weather.

It is worth noting here that the EGR engines are notorious hard starters in cold weather. If not equipped with the optional intake grid heater, they will typically start very hard or not at all much below freezing, even with a block heater plugged in. A retrofit grid heater is available for engines not originally equipped with one, but they are kind of expensive. However, it is the only way the engine will reliably start in cold weather.

DT466E No Start Help, Part 1

2016-11-19T15:55:00.000-06:00

I am posting no start help right here on The Toolbox.

This is another excerpt from my No Start Diagnostic book, in response to

so many basic questions I receive on no start problems.

Many of these problems are due to basic things anyone can check.

This is from the part of the book dealing with a no start when there are no codes and the check engine light is not on.

This will be a two-part post, with part 2 coming next month.
Check back often for news and information.

No Start diagnostic: basic fuel system checks, part 1.

A diesel engine needs only three things to start; air, fuel injected at the right time,

and compression. Compression is partly a function of cranking speed, so batteries

or a starter that are too weak to crank the engine fast enough will cause a no start.

The engine needs to crank at a minimum of 130 rpm in order to start, so make sure it

does and use a battery charger if needed.

The most common causes of no start in the DT engine are low oil level,

an ICP (injection control pressure) problem, and fuel issues. It is important to check the

simplest, easiest things first. If no code or light is set a fuel problem is often the cause.

It is worthwhile to at least look at the air filter or preferably to shine a light through it

to be sure it isn’t plugged. Also check the fuel filter, making sure it is full of fuel.

An empty filter that makes a sucking noise when it is loosened is a sure sign of a

restricted fuel line, filter, or tank pickup. If in doubt, replace the filter.

If a fuel delivery problem is suspected always check the pre-filter screen for

debris blockage. On pre-2004 engines it is a small bowl about the size of a D-cell battery

behind the fuel filter. On EGR engines it is on the bottom of the fuel filter canister.

Both bowls contain a cleanable screen and are sealed by an O-ring.

Dual fuel tanks on 4300 trucks.

If your 4000 series has dual fuel tanks, make sure there is fuel in the

passenger side tank. The engine usually draws fuel from that tank, and an

electric fuel pump transfers fuel from the driver side to keep the same level in both.

If the transfer pump fails the passenger tank can be sucked dry.

While on the subject, smell the fuel and make sure someone didn’t fill the

tank with gasoline. You would be amazed at the number of times professional mechanics

run into this, and nobody ever knows who did it. Too much gasoline will cause

a no start or at minimum rough running, low power, and amazing quantities

of foul-smelling smoke.

Check back next month for part 2

Truck Platooning is Just Around the Corner

2016-11-19T09:46:00.000-06:00

While self-driving car and truck technology is probably a little way off, it appears that truck platooning is just around the corner.

Here is a little video that shows Peloton company's plan to enable platooning NEXT YEAR!

Peloton platoon technology

In partnership with Peterbilt, Cummins, and ZF TRW, the company says the technology will allow a 7% savings in fuel between two trucks running together.

This video shows how the system can search for an available "volunteer" truck to join another while on the road. Thus, eventually any two trucks headed in the same direction could link up to save fuel.

Truck Platooning is the Future

2016-10-29T21:37:00.001-05:00

Self driving truck technology is all the rage today, but it is probably some years down the road.

Although the technology enabling driverless trucks is here now, I feel it will be awhile before the software and hardware enabling that capability will be fully trusted.

The link below outlines some of the issues at hand.

two - truck platooning

More importantly I think there are legal aspects that will need to be ironed out. For instance if there is an accident and a hardware problem is found to be at fault, whose insurance will pay? the carrier? the equipment manufacturer? the last person to work on the truck?

Platooning technology offers a mid step between today and tomorrow. Platooning involves two or more trucks linked wirelessly that follow each other much more closely than would be safe if each were controlled by a human driver. All trucks in the group accelerate and brake as one unit.

Platooning promises fuel savings and (possibly) extended hours of service, but would require some training of truck drivers and the motorists sharing the road. Drivers would need to understand at least the basics of how the system works, and motorists would probably need to be prohibited from entering between platooning trucks.

This emerging technology will be a growth area for technicians (mechanics) and the younger techs or those just entering the field would be wise to study electronics, wireless communication, and sensor technology to get ready for upcoming repair opportunities.

Posting Questions on The Toolbox

2016-06-25T21:32:00.002-05:00

Please be advised that due to my lack of available time I will no longer be answering posts or emails from this site.

You can still post your questions or comments here and anyone else can answer.

I am sorry for this, because I enjoy answering questions and helping solve problems, but my schedule no longer allows me to do it.

Bruce

Fix your DT466E Yourself

2016-05-31T22:27:00.000-05:00

Do You Want to Fix Your DT466 Yourself?

How to buy 25 years of truck repair experience for $30.00

When your truck needs to be fixed your repair choices are basically 3:

Take the truck to the dealer. Pay dealer prices. Lose more money renting a replacement or doing without your truck.
Take it to an independent shop. Wonder if they will be able to fix the problem. Lose money while they try to figure it out.
Fix it yourself. Buy one of my books and using readily available tools, get back on the road fast. Save lots of money.

This is what you get with my do it yourself DT466E books:

Specific content. These books address specific repairs so you don't waste time sorting through stuff you don't need. With factory manuals, you pay for lots of content you don't need.
Complete information. All the information you need is there and is arranged in a logical way. This includes torque specs, special procedures, tool lists, and more.
You get experience. In fact, you get over 25 years of experience doing the jobs in the books.
If you have a problem or something is unclear, I am there. Your purchase includes an email address where you can get my help. I have access to factory information as well as experience in repairing these engines.
Guarantee. If you don't think the book is what I say it is, I don't want your money. Your Ebay purchase includes a 14 day, money back guarantee. If you buy from Amazon there is no warranty, but if you're not satisfied I will send your money back.
The cost of each book is about $30.00, and I try to ship the same day or at latest the next business day. Shipping to the continental U.S. usually takes about 3 days.

Click on the page tab above this post for more information on each book. There are links to the sales points, where you can view samples of the content.

On the way is a book on more repair operations:
Injector change
Injector cup (sleeve) replacement

Valve adjustment
Camshaft change

Engine oil pump service
Code reading on the dash display

I'll also be posting excerpts from both books periodically, so check back for more.

DT466E No Start book

DT466E Inframe Rebuild book

4/11/2019 Please note: these books are no longer available separately. The exact same information can be found in the new Combined Repair Books offered on eBay.
Just click on the tab above this post to buy or for more information.
Bruce

Problems That Won't Cause a No Start on a DT466E

2016-04-19T11:36:00.003-05:00

When working on a truck that won't start it is important to know some of the problems that won't cause a no start on a DT466E.

That way you won't waste time working on something that won't help with the problem.

This post is a section from my book: DT466E No Start Diagnosis. For more information or to buy the book just click on the tab above the first post.

Problems that do not cause a no start
Before going into problems that could cause a no start, it is important to cover some things that WILL NOT cause a no start.

ECM/IDM failure. Although it can cause a no start, failure of one of these components is so remarkably rare that replacement should never be contemplated by anyone but a knowledgeable professional. The replacement will need to be programmed by a dealer, anyway. There are even DTC codes calling for replacement that cannot necessarily be believed. In short, NEVER replace that computer!
Failed IAT, TPS, EBP, EFP, or ECT sensors alone will not cause a no start, but can cause driveability problems or might combine with other issues in a no start situation.
A low coolant level or sensor will not cause a no start, although it may shut the truck down after a period of running.
A bad injector will not by itself cause a no start, and the sudden failure of a set of injectors is extremely unlikely. There are injector-related exceptions:

The injector fuel seals can fail and cause a no start, but this condition will cause low fuel pressure, and probably fuel in the oil.
In 2004 and later engines the oil inlet pockets in the top of the injectors can wear and cause a no start, initially when the engine is hot. This sometimes necessitates changing all the injectors.
Leaking injector seals can cause a no start, usually initially when the engine is hot.
A very high mileage engine may have a set of worn injectors that finally cause a no start condition, but this will have been preceded by hard starting, rough running, and smoking when the engine did start. Often these engines will run after being started with ether.
Another exception is the rare occasion when an injector tip valve sticks open; this can cause the cylinder pressure to pump lots of air into the fuel system. The fuel pressure may be high and the engine will certainly shut down and fail to start, after a period of running.

An IDM Problem on a 4300 DT466E

2016-03-13T20:16:00.002-05:00

A customer truck had been plagued with intermittent no start problems. For instance, once it was in for a service and it started on the lot to pull it in for the work, again after the oil change, then again to pull it out and park it.

When the customer came to pick it up the next day however, it wouldn't start and was throwing codes for low IDM volts.

I dragged the thing into the shop, where it naturally started right up.

Testing the IDM circuit

The standard test for the IDM circuit is to plug a sealed beam headlight across pins 30 and 87 of the IDM relay socket. I did so and the headlight lit brightly and remained lit for over a minute, so the circuit passed the test.

The relay was also a possibility, so I swapped it with the horn relay and blew the horn several times, including a long blast causing a negative reaction from my shop mates.

Even though the circuit seemed good I had to check the battery box. The Weatherpack connectors to the IDM and ECM are prone to problems in the 4300 model. However, on this truck I had already cut the connectors out of the harness and soldered the wires together in an earlier version of this same issue. The battery cable ends looked OK, but I've been doing this long enough to know that just looking isn't good enough, particularly when you know there is a problem. I took all the ends off the batteries and cleaned them all up, although they appeared good when taken apart.

Back again

Despite the fact that I didn't find a problem, the customer needed the truck. A few days later the truck was again at the shop. One of the other guys had gone and jump started it after it again failed to start and the driver had cranked the batteries dead. Now it wouldn't start for me, either. Before pulling it into the shop I wanted to try to see what was up while the no start condition was active.

The scanner pulled codes for the IDM and batt volts, but those were inactive and probably the result of the batteries being cranked down.

I was really getting tired of this truck and this problem and the customer was less than pleased also. I really needed to nail this thing somehow. Sometimes a fresh pair of eyes is needed for something like this, so we had J. take a look. He is the resident shop genius at electrical diagnosis and the go-to guy for really tough problems in general.

He couldn't find anything, either. However, a couple of times during all this the thing did fail to start, but without attendant codes.

4300 fusebox corrosion

Above the driver steer tire is the fusebox containing the module relays and fuses. I took it apart to check the connections on the back of the relay socket. On 4300 models the box is prone to corroded contacts often causing no starts. This one was clean and all voltages were getting through. Now it was time to really look close at the rest of the IDM circuit.

The wires that feed the IDM and ECM relays are wrapped in fabric tape and run along with the battery cables. However on this truck somebody had repaired the circuit to the IDM relay by splicing in a piece of wire. The splices were covered with tape, which is always a bad sign. Under the tape were shrink type butt connectors. They were good quality, glue-lined connectors, but they had been crimped with a crimper for uninsulated connectors, which pierced the insulation and let road salt into the splice.

When I cut these connectors out to redo the work I noticed the wire had also been pierced with a test light not once but in 3 separate places, and those spots were also corroded. I replaced the splices with new wire and uninsulated butt connectors, which were then soldered with rosin core solder. The ends of the wire could have just been soldered together but I find it easier and neater to first connect the ends with a butt connector, then add solder to the joint. The connection is then covered with glue lined heat shrink tube for a weatherproof seal.

After this repair the truck started every time and also the next day. It has now been in possession of the owner for over a month with no issues.

Proper circuit repair is critical

This no start experience highlights several things:

Never pierce a wire's insulation to check a circuit. You may get away with it inside a cab or another place protected from the weather, but certainly not under a truck and not on a critical, high amperage circuit.
If you use shrinkable connectors for a repair, use the proper crimper so the insulation isn't broken.
Don't even bother using electrical tape to protect a connector from the weather. It just doesn't work. At least use a shrinkable, glue lined connector. For any circuit to a computer or a circuit critical to vehicle operation, use a soldered connection covered with glue-lined shrink tube.
I was always told that the headlight test for the IDM circuit was definitive, but apparently that isn't so. In this case it looks like there was enough circuit capacity to light the headlight, but not enough to power the IDM.

How to Find a Good Auto Repair Shop

2016-03-09T12:09:00.002-06:00

How to Find a Good Auto Repair Shop

If you want to find a good auto repair shop, you need to recognize that you're trying to build a relationship. When you find a trustworthy shop, you have someone to call when a question or problem arises. You're also more assured of being treated fairly, especially if a repair is expensive.

Most shops will make an extra effort to please a customer they have a good relationship with.

Here are the steps you need to take in order to find a reliable repair shop for your vehicle.

Finding candidates

There are several resources available that you can use to find a repair shop you trust. One option is to ask friends, family, and co-workers who they use. Another option is to take a look through your local yellow pages telephone directory. You can also take note of any shops that you notice as you're driving around your neighborhood.

Once you've settled on a short list of candidates, check online to see if the shop has a good reputation with the local Better Business Bureau, and whether or not there are any customer reviews. Rule out the ones with a bad reputation.

For the remaining possibilities, check their websites to see what services they offer and get an idea of the tone of the business.

When you find a good auto repair shop, take it for a test drive

When you find a repair business you're comfortable with, call and schedule a simple service such as an oil change or a tire repair. Wait around on the premises while the work is being done so you'll have ample opportunity to see everything that goes on and observe how shop personnel treat other customers.

You should also try to determine the happiness of the employees and the overall mood if the business. Happy employees are more likely to stick around - and you can't rely on a shop with a high rate of staff turnover.

All this will give you a chance to see if there's anything about the place that makes you uncomfortable, before spending too much money or time.

Things to check when you check in

When you walk in, does the shop look clean and organized? Repair shops aren't the cleanest places, but it shouldn't look like it's been days since they've swept the floor. There shouldn't be equipment or tools lying around and in the way. The customer area should be clean and pleasant.
Does the service writer write down what you want done or enter it on the computer as you tell her?
Do the mechanics use seat covers and floor mats while they work on vehicles?

When the work is finished, does someone go over the bill and answer any questions?

If you want to find a good auto repair shop, focus on finding a relationship

If you take the time to find a good auto repair shop, it'll pay off. By finding, and building a relationship with, a trustworthy shop you'll have someone to call when a problem arises. Plus, you'll be treated fairly even with expensive repairs.

People you know can help you find someone, but the real test is to make an exploratory visit in person to assess the staff and premises. The shop you choose may not be the cheapest, but paying a little more for reliability and good service can save money in the long run.

Parts for DT466E Rebuild

2016-03-01T10:07:00.003-06:00

Parts for DT466E Rebuilds

Here are a few parts to have when you do your rebuild

Inframe kits need to be ordered per engine serial number or VIN to ensure proper fitment.

Keep in mind that minor engine design changes in model year 2000 and again for 2003 mean some parts changes.

Parts for the pre-2004 engine

Liner, piston, and ring kit
Gasket set: head gasket, exhaust and oil supply manifold gaskets, oil pan gasket
Injector seals PN 1830742C92
Injector valve cover connector O-ring seal PN 1824908C1
Draft tube O-ring seal available locally
6 cam follower guides (dogbones) PN 181389C21
Oil filter Fleetguard LF3883
Note: inframe kits usually liners, pistons, rings, bearings, injector seals, and gaskets.

Parts for 2004 - 2006 EGR engine

Liner, piston, and ring kit

Gasket set: head gasket, exhaust and intake manifold gaskets

High pressure oil supply manifold O-rings PN1842626C96

Injector seals PN1842624C92

6 cam follower guides (dogbones) PN181389C21

Oil filter Fleetguard LF9035

Draft tube filter O-ring replacement available locally

EGR coolant pipe O-rings

Note: inframe kits include liners, pistons, rings, bearings, injector seals, and gaskets.

Here are some handy links for aftermarket parts:

http://stores.ebay.com/directdiesel?_trksid=p2056016.l2563

http://www.interstate-mcbee.com/

https://www.trpparts.com/media/10542/275135_Eng_Navistar_DT_466.pdf

http://www.shopdieselspecialists.com/category_s/151.htm

This page was taken from the book: DT466E Inframe Rebuild Guide. Click on the page tab above this post to go to the sales page.

New look for The Toolbox

2016-02-20T10:17:00.000-06:00

The Toolbox has a new look.

If you have visited before you will notice the new look on The Toolbox.

I've tried to clean it up a little and simplify things.

As always it's a work in progress.

Bruce

DT466E Fuel Injection Components Guide

2016-02-16T01:00:00.000-06:00

DT466E fuel injection control components

Engine oil supply components

The engine oil pump, which is bolted to the front cover around the crankshaft nose, provides lubricating oil for the engine and supplies the high pressure oil pump reservoir in the upper left part of the front cover.
The engine oil temperature sensor is screwed into the high pressure oil reservoir next to the high pressure pump. It tells the ECM the oil temperature and thereby its viscosity. This is probably one of the less important components, except in temperature extremes. Removing it confirms the presence of oil in the high pressure reservoir.

High pressure oil system components

The High pressure oil pump, on the back side of the top left front cover, provides oil at up to 6000psi to actuate the fuel injectors.

The Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR) on the high pressure pump uses voltage from the Engine Control Module (ECM) to regulate the injection control pressure by opening a bypass valve in the pump. 12 volts can be temporarily applied to the regulator to close it completely to test the pump's maximum pressure. If it generates rated pressure this eliminates the pump as a no start or performance problem.

The ICP sensor, on the oil supply manifold, tells the ECM how much pressure the injection control pressure system is making moment by moment.

Injectors take the injection control pressure and magnify it 7X to provide fuel injection pressure. Therefore, if the injection control pressure is 3000 psi, the fuel will be injected at 21,000 psi. The injectors are unit injectors, meaning that the fuel is brought to injection pressure inside the injector itself, instead of being supplied at injection pressure from a pump via a manifold as in high pressure common rail injection, or by individual lines as in mechanical injection.

DT466E control modules

The Engine Control Module (ECM) is the engine’s brain, taking all the sensor inputs into account to determine when and for how long to inject fuel.

Injector Driver Module (IDM) has a transformer that supplies and distributes high voltage to open and close a valve in the injectors, letting high pressure oil inject fuel. In pre-2004 engines it is enclosed in the same housing as the ECM and this combination is also known as the CEC (Consolidated Engine Controller). 2004 and later engines have separate ECM and IDM units stacked on the left rear of the engine block.

Sensors on the fuel injection system

The MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor tells the ECM how much pressure is developed in the intake manifold so the proper amount of fuel is injected at a given engine load and RPM.

Also used to control and monitor the system is a Cam Position Sensor (CMP), a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Intake Air Temp sensor (IAT), Crank Position Sensor, (CKP, on EGR motors), and Exhaust Back Pressure sensor, (EBP, on EGR motors).

Low pressure fuel system components

The fuel pump is a mechanical unit bolted to and driven by the high pressure pump. Steel fuel lines connect it to the fuel filter and on the pre-EGR engine, to the fuel/oil manifold. There is an electric pump on trucks with dual fuel tanks, but it only serves to equalize the fuel level between the tanks and does not feed the engine.

The standard fuel filter setup on pre-EGR engines is a single spin-on fuel filter and a small sediment bowl containing a particulate screen. Some trucks may be equipped with a fuel separator which could be found on either side of the engine.

EGR engines have a fuel conditioning unit with a cartridge type filter and a sediment bowl with a particulate screen on the bottom of the filter canister. A standard water in fuel sensor and optional fuel pressure sensor are in the sediment bowl and the filter housing, respectively.

The fuel pressure regulator is in the fuel canister on EGR engines. It is accessed and inspected by removing the top of the canister and removing the filter. It can be seen at the bottom of the canister, and has an Allen head. There is no return fuel to the tank(s) on the EGR engine, as return fuel recirculates back to the suction side of the system.

On earlier, pre-EGR engines the regulator is screwed into the rear end of the fuel/oil manifold. Return fuel flows through the regulator to the return line to the fuel tank(s).

This is content taken from the book: DT466E No Start Diagnostic

Assembly Tips for International Design Engines

2016-02-10T13:12:00.001-06:00

Here are some tips for assembling and servicing DT, DTEGR, and VT engines.

Tips for early (pre 2004 DT466) engines:

To unhook the injector harness from the valve cover/intake manifold, don’t use tools to pry on it. Just squeeze the sides and pull.

To release the injector harness pass-through from the valve cover, use a 1 3/16’’ 12pt socket. Just put the socket over the pass-through plug and push.

If the plastic fuel sediment bowl behind the fuel filter is too tight to turn off by hand, use a 1 1/4’’ box wrench.

Drain the high pressure oil manifold before you remove an injector. Remove the plug at the rear of the manifold with a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar or impact. If the oil isn't drained before an injector is removed the oil will fill the cylinder and the engine will hydrolock when you try to start it.

After a rebuild, injector change, or anything else that drains the high pressure oil system, leave the injector harness unplugged. Crank the engine until you get oil pressure, wait a minute, then crank twice more and connect the harness. This will get oil back into the rail, make fuel pressure, and the engine will start right up. Injectors can be damaged if they fire dry.

Tips for 466EGR/VT engines:

To release the injector pass through on the Ford 6.0/International VT 365/275 use a 12point, 19mm deep socket. Take the connector off at the head and put the socket over the pass through and push to unlatch the connector.

After an inframe or removing the high pressure manifold on EGR or VT engines it usually isn’t necessary to unhook the injectors during starting. Just prime the fuel system with the hand primer. Pump until there is significant resistance and bleed the air out from the Schrader valve at the front of the intake manifold. Repeat until no more air comes out the bleeder. When the engine starts let it idle until it is running smoothly. Hammering on the throttle right away can damage injectors.

General assembly tips:

Don’t install the vibration dampener by pulling it on with bolts. Just warm up the center of the hub to about 200 - 250 degrees F (no hotter!) and it will slide right on the crank nose.

Try a Lisle wrinkle-band piston ring compressor. I haven’t found anything that works quite as well, and they are inexpensive.

Engine Component Locator for the DT466E / EGR / Maxxforce DT

2016-02-04T09:30:00.000-06:00

Location of Engine Components on the DT466E / DT466E EGR / Maxxforce DT

I have been seeing visitors search for components on the DT466 engine on this site, so I thought I would post the locations of major components. Also see the images showing some of the sensors.
The images are from my book: DT466E No Start Diagnostic.

Component Locator DT466E / EGR / Maxxforce DT

DT466E engine Components and Sensors

Sharing on Social Media

2016-01-31T10:49:00.003-06:00

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DT466E engine operation and design.

2016-01-26T12:40:00.002-06:00

Design and Operation of the DT466E Diesel Engine

The DT466 was introduced in 1984 as a mechanically injected powerplant for medium duty trucks, buses, generators, and agricultural equipment. In 1994 it was modified for electronic fuel injection using the HEUI (Hydraulically actuated Electronically controlled Unit Injection) system that International developed with Caterpillar. The DT466E model built from 1998 through 2003 is what I will focus on in this guide. It is a very simple and robust design and is comparatively easy to work on. Parts are readily available from both the dealer network and the aftermarket. The 2004 through 2006 EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) models are similar and changes will be covered in separate sections. 1994 to 1997 models differ mostly in the location and configuration of the modules and wiring, so this guide can be used for those, too.
This manual is based on real world experience in rebuilding and repairing many of these engines. You will not find extended theory of operation but instead the focus is on that information needed to successfully build a long-running workhorse. Some of the common mechanical tasks like valve removal and replacement will not be covered and any needed information for such operations can be found online. Detailed descriptions of other things like checking liner protrusion will be covered here when they are unlikely to be easily found in other resources.

DT466E construction and design

In general specifications, the DT466E is an inline 6 cylinder turbocharged diesel with 2 valves per cylinder. A gear driven in-block camshaft operates the valves through pushtubes and roller-ended cam followers. The engine oil pump is a gerotor design located on the outside of the front cover. Its inner gear is splined to the crankshaft nose and a steel wear plate isolates the rotating gears from the aluminum front cover. The crankshaft runs in seven main bearings, and the upper rear main bearing shell incorporates a flange on each side to limit crankshaft end play. Pistons are oil-cooled by a pair of nozzles, one front and one rear, at the bottom of each cylinder.
The block is a wet liner design which is more common in large road diesels than in a medium duty truck engine. Wet cylinder liners are in direct contact with the engine coolant and are only in contact with the block at their top and bottom. This means the cylinders are cooled evenly and stay rounder at temperature, and the liners can be replaced in the field with no machine work. Liners are sealed at their bottom by an O-ring band and at the top by the head gasket. Inframe kits with new liners, matching pistons and rings, new bearing shells, and gaskets are readily available at relatively low cost.

Fuel system components

          As mentioned before, HEUI injection drives the DT466E. The system uses high pressure (up to about 4000psi) engine oil to actuate the injectors. The high pressure oil pump is bolted to the back of the engine front cover and has its own reservoir fed by the engine oil pump.
          A fuel/oil supply manifold bolted to the left side of the head feeds both fluids to the injectors via passages in the head. An Injector Drive Module (IDM) generates 110 volt power (48 volts in EGR motors) to open and close a spool valve atop each injector, letting pressurized oil inject the fuel. Injection timing and duration, as well as the injection control pressure made by the pump are controlled by the Engine Control Module (ECM). Both modules are enclosed in the same housing (except in the EGR model), although each has a separate connector to the engine harness.
Common DT466 problems and solutions
      Common mechanical problems with these engines are leaking liner O-rings, injector failures, and occasionally broken cam follower guides. Leaking liner O-rings are sometimes seen on high mileage engines and allow coolant into the crankcase, causing high oil levels and/or steam from the crankcase breather. Extreme and sudden loss of coolant often makes the engine oil resemble grey pudding which while alarming, seldom causes engine damage as long as the vehicle is not driven extensively after discovery.
      It is strongly recommend that a complete inframe be done whenever one liner has an O-ring failure; if the O-ring on one cylinder has failed it is probable that one or more others are in the same condition. Injector failure is possibly more common than in some other engines, but usually only causes a miss or a smoking issue. On pre-2004 engines injector changes are simple and do not require any valve train removal.
      Broken cam follower guides are a very serious problem which is not uncommon on this engine. Since the cam followers have a roller in contact with the cam, each pair is connected by a guide to keep them from turning. If a guide breaks, the followers for that cylinder turn sideways and rapidly grind the cam lobes down. This always means a cam change no matter how quickly the problem is diagnosed. The dealer fix for preventing this issue is to install two guides on each pair of followers. It is strongly recommended to buy six extra guides and stack one on top of each existing guide whenever the head is off. This adds about $250 to the cost of each repair, but that is cheap insurance to prevent a catastrophic and costly repair down the road.

Long life and durability after a rebuild depends on several things

      There are several things that are essential in rebuilding an engine if it is to have a long and reliable life. First, torque specs and tightening patterns must be rigidly adhered to, and a good quality and regularly calibrated torque wrench used. Engine assembly is no place to use an old split beam torque wrench. The pre and post 2004 engines use different head bolt torques and tightening patterns, and torque specs for engine fasteners are occasionally updated with changes.
      Second, cylinder liner protrusions must be checked and must be to spec. This is possibly the single most important assembly aspect contributing to longevity. If a liner does not have enough protrusion there will not be enough crush on the head gasket fire ring and combustion pressure will not be contained. Too much protrusion although rare, could cause a coolant leak when the liner holds the head gasket off the deck. Luckily the DT466 rarely has issues here, but some factory remans with cut liner counterbores will need shims. Protrusion measurement will be covered in depth in later chapters.
      Last, an original engine will nearly always have standard size bearing shells, but it still pays to look at the back of each one and make sure, then check that the bearing you are putting in is the same standard or undersize. Reman engines can easily have a reground crank and putting standard size bearing shells on a .010 undersize crank will be big trouble. Attention to detail pays off when doing this work and rushing a task, especially an unfamiliar or critical one, can have dire consequences.

This is a section from my book: DT466E Inframe Rebuild Guide.

Freightliner Supertruck

2016-01-23T10:30:00.000-06:00

Hello everyone.
New advances in vehicle technology are on the way.

I recently came across this site for the Freightliner concept truck.
The site outlines technologies the manufacturers are working on today, and it also is a really cool website.
http://www.freightlinersupertruck.com/#main

Note some of the technological and aerodynamic similarities to the future (imaginary) truck I wrote about in an earlier post on this blogsite.
http://thetruckmechanictoolbox.blogspot.com

While all this is exiting, what really gets me going is the possibility of incab tech advancements like touch screen dash displays, ethernet device connectivity between components, and especially connectivity between vehicles and between vehicles and highway infrastructure.

The last area, that of connecting vehicles wirelessly to sensors and other sources for traffic information, microlocality weather conditions, mapping and route info and more, will have a profound effect on everyone's driving experience.

A vehicle's further connectivity to the outside world may have a larger impact on fuel savings and efficient travel times than all other advances put together. It will also impact how trucks are repaired, the knowledge needed to do those repairs, and who drives them.

It may be a good time for mechanics to start learning about sensor, wireless, and ethernet systems to get out in front of the technology. When people are needed to repair and install such systems those with knowledge will be first in line for advancement. There may even be a new repair position created using those skills.

Future advances like automated trailer hookup and docking may make those skills less important to the driving job, bringing more drivers to that position.

Thanks for reading,
Bruce

What to Look for when Buying a Used Diesel Pickup

2016-01-17T19:42:00.002-06:00

Buying a Diesel Pickup Without getting Taken

Hello everyone.

Today I would like to talk about buying a diesel pickup. Specifically a used pickup, but I will include some thoughts on new trucks as well.
While I myself specialize in medium and heavy trucks, the company I work for has several customers with fleets of from a handful to several dozen light duty trucks (pickups). When I talk about a light duty vehicle I am talking about those up to around 12,000 GVW (gross vehicle weight).
Engines include the Ford 7.3, 6.0, (made by International/Navistar) and 6.4 Powerstroke, the GM Duramax (Isuzu), and Dodge (Cummins) 6.7

Do you really need a diesel?

The first and foremost caution before you even start looking is to decide whether you really need a diesel powered truck. Do you tow or haul a significant load on a regular basis, or do you just want the status of driving a diesel? Keep in mind that a diesel will cost much more than a gas engine to buy, and much, much more to keep up and to repair. In the coldest weather it will need to be plugged in if you expect it to start, and the newest models require periodic refills of Diesel Exhaust Fluid in addition to fuel. This may not be much of an issue when the vehicle is under warranty, but if it is a used truck or you intend to keep it a long time, it should be seriously considered.

A check engine light is a red flag

The first thing I will caution against is to NEVER buy one of these vehicles that has the check engine light on. I will stress this again, because it is that important. If the engine light is on or comes on after a 10 mile test drive, WALK AWAY and DO NOT LOOK BACK, no matter how minor the owner tells you the problem is. If it was a cheap repair, he would have done it before trying to sell. Modern diesels can set a light for bad injectors, mechanical problems, and emissions issues among other things, and all these things are expensive to repair.
I can't tell you how many times we have customers come in having just bought a truck for, say, $3000 and find out it will cost another $2000 - 3000 to get the light off and get it to run properly. I am not exaggerating this problem, a turbo or set of injectors would START at about that much money.
Engine component accessibility on GM or Ford truck especially, is absolutely horrible, and it gets worse every year as more is added to the engine bay area. Many models are also prone to exhaust and/or oil leaks.
Parts costs can quickly add literally thousands of dollars to a repair bill, and you don't really want to install cut rate parts, then have to pay another labor bill to replace them if they fail.

Three things to look for on a used diesel

For these reasons there are several things to remember when looking at a truck. First, is the odometer mileage appropriate for the model year? The more miles the truck has on it, the closer it is to needing a major repair. Give the vehicle very little extra credit for being meticulously maintained or looking better than the mileage would indicate; neither of these conditions is nearly as important as you might think they are. We see some awfully pretty trucks with serious problems.
The second thing to look closely at is the engine compartment. I stress looking very closely for evidence the engine has been worked on. Are any screws or other fasteners missing? Are all electrical connectors and sensor attachments intact and undamaged? Are any of the plastic parts broken off with missing mounting tabs? Does anything look like it has been glued or patched? All these things might indicate that there might have been a major repair.
The third major checklist item is the road test. Never buy a vehicle without taking it on a long test drive. You need to drive it far enough to be sure it gets up to operating temperature and that there are no driveability issues at any temperature or engine speed. The engine shouldn't smoke any more than the occasional puff when accelerating, and it certainly shouldn't smoke at idle once warmed up. It goes without saying that there should be no unusual squeals, whistles, rattles, or knocks at any time.
Lastly as with any vehicle, don't fall in love with a paint job or fancy doodads bolted to the truck. If it doesn't pass the above tests it isn't worth buying and you should move on to the next seller. Used pickups just aren't that hard to find.

Don't buy a pickup with a chipped ECM

One word before parting: I suggest not even bothering to look at a truck that has been "chipped" or has other significant power upgrades beyond the stock setup. Despite what anyone or any aftermarket company says, the ONLY way to make more power is to burn more fuel. A chip or specialty ECM will merely add more fuel, make more smoke, and possible reduce reliability.

Thanks for reading,
Bruce

the toolbox - the diesel and truck mechanic forum

Paccar DAVIE4 diagnostic program problem

Fuel Pressure Regulator Basics

Caterpillar C7 fuel pressure diagnosis.

The symptoms on this Caterpillar C7 were a long crank to start, under all circumstances.

Fuel pressure is regulated on pump output.

Fuel can be returned back to the tank, or to the suction side.

The regulator on the C7 is on the rear of the cylinder head.

C7 fuel pressure regulator design has two parts.

Detroit Series 60 fuel pressure regulator has two parts.

2006 MBE 4000 Hard Start and Engine Miss

Fuel aeration is indicated by air bubbles in the fuel returning from the engine to the tank.

Find the source of fuel aeration start by eliminating the fuel tank and pickup line and running the engine off a can of fuel.

Check the lines and fittings between the filter housing and the transfer pump for leaks that could be sucking air.

The only other possibility left for air entry, or fuel aeration, was the fuel pump.

DDEC5 Engine Miss and Code 61

Code 61 FMI 0 is injector response time too long.

Cleaning oil out of the connectors removed the active code 61.

Engine oil can insulate an electrical connection.

Freightliner FB65 with dash light on

This post concerns a dash light problem on a Freightliner FB65 bus.

What does a light flashing "PCM DIGN" mean?

Check for power at the transmission module and fuse panel.

The FB65 bus battery drain turned out to be a failed alternator.

Worst ABS Module Ever

A customer's 2001 Sterling salt spreader has a failed ABS module.

DOT inspection finds the ABS light doesn't prove out.

Eliminating wind noise and leaks on 4200/4300/4400 Doors

Today I want to post an easy way to eliminate wind noise and leaks on 4200/4300/4400 doors.

DT466E No Start help, part 2

The DT466E HEUI engine requires oil to fire the injectors.

Confirm that oil is getting to the high pressure pump reservoir.

DT466E EGR engines start hard in cold weather.

DT466E No Start Help, Part 1

I am posting no start help right here on The Toolbox.

This is from the part of the book dealing with a no start when there are no codes and the check engine light is not on.

No Start diagnostic: basic fuel system checks, part 1.

Dual fuel tanks on 4300 trucks.

Truck Platooning is Just Around the Corner

Truck Platooning is the Future

Posting Questions on The Toolbox

Fix your DT466E Yourself

Do You Want to Fix Your DT466 Yourself?

How to buy 25 years of truck repair experience for $30.00

When your truck needs to be fixed your repair choices are basically 3:

This is what you get with my do it yourself DT466E books:

Click on the page tab above this post for more information on each book. There are links to the sales points, where you can view samples of the content.

4/11/2019 Please note: these books are no longer available separately. The exact same information can be found in the new Combined Repair Books offered on eBay.Just click on the tab above this post to buy or for more information. Bruce

Problems That Won't Cause a No Start on a DT466E

When working on a truck that won't start it is important to know some of the problems that won't cause a no start on a DT466E.

This post is a section from my book: DT466E No Start Diagnosis. For more information or to buy the book just click on the tab above the first post.

An IDM Problem on a 4300 DT466E

Testing the IDM circuit

Back again

4300 fusebox corrosion

Proper circuit repair is critical

How to Find a Good Auto Repair Shop

How to Find a Good Auto Repair Shop

Finding candidates

When you find a good auto repair shop, take it for a test drive

Things to check when you check in

If you want to find a good auto repair shop, focus on finding a relationship

Parts for DT466E Rebuild

Parts for DT466E Rebuilds

Here are a few parts to have when you do your rebuild

Parts for the pre-2004 engine

Parts for 2004 - 2006 EGR engine

This page was taken from the book: DT466E Inframe Rebuild Guide. Click on the page tab above this post to go to the sales page.

New look for The Toolbox

The Toolbox has a new look.

DT466E Fuel Injection Components Guide

DT466E fuel injection control components

Engine oil supply components

High pressure oil system components

DT466E control modules

Sensors on the fuel injection system

Low pressure fuel system components

This is content taken from the book: DT466E No Start Diagnostic

Assembly Tips for International Design Engines

Here are some tips for assembling and servicing DT, DTEGR, and VT engines.

4/11/2019 Please note: these books are no longer available separately. The exact same information can be found in the new Combined Repair Books offered on eBay.
Just click on the tab above this post to buy or for more information.
Bruce