GARDEN ROSES

The Hybrid China Rose

2010-08-27T12:38:00.000-07:00

The Hybrid China Rose
The Hybrid China Rose has arisen from various crosses among the French, Provence and other summer kinds, with the China, Noissette and Bourbon Roses.

For along time the various of this class were our most beautiful and cherished roses but like nearly all of the summer sorts, they are outshone and outlasted by various Remontants.

In this connection it may be remarked that about one-fourth of the roses which are sent out as Hybrid Perpetuals should properly be placed among the Hybrid Chinas, for the flowers which they produced autumn are the exception and not the rule.

A Hybrid China which blooms more than once during the season; if this classification were carried out, we should to-day ne growing many more Hybrid Chinas and many less Hybrid Perpetuals.

On account of the diverse parentage of the varieties in this group, coming from so many different classes, there is great dissimilarity in the appearance of the different sorts, but most of them are rapid growers, with long, flexible shoots; smooth, luxuriant foliage; large, rather numerous, thorn; globular or cup-shaped flowers, which are freely produced in their season.

Those of vigorous growth, and most of then are such , require but little pruning.
The Hybrid China Rose

Watering the Roses

2010-07-18T03:27:00.000-07:00

Watering the Roses
Roses appreciate a regular supply of water. If Mother nature doesn’t supply at least an inch of rain per week while your roses are actively growing, you need to supply supplemental water if you want your roses to thrive.

In hot, dry climates, of course, your roses will need more water, while they can get with less in cooler, more humid areas.

As a rule of thumb, that translates into 4 to 5 gallons of water per plant per week. Its better to apply supplemental water in one or two deep soakings per week than give daily spritzes.

Drip irrigation systems and soaker hoses are two ways to deliver water right to the soil and minimizes water loses to evaporation.

This approach also helps to keep the leaves dry, which discourages the development of some diseases.

Overhead sprinkling can work fine too, but it’s generally best to do this in the morning so the foliage can dry quickly.
Watering the Roses

Old Garden Roses from Europe

2010-06-11T06:55:00.000-07:00

Old Garden Roses from Europe
There are 15 classes Old Garden Roses, plus two miscellaneous categories for species hybrids and those roses hat just don’t fit anywhere else.

Accordingly that roses were developed or known before 1867. Five of this classes are subdivided into climbing and non-climbing types.

Four classes of Old Garden Roses include the old European garden roses, the romantic roses pictures in antique oil paintings - the albas, damasks, gallicas and centifolia roses.

A fifth class is the family of moss roses. Although their origin is not completely known, most rosarians believe that these roses sprang naturally from both a centifolia and damasks roses.

These roses are almost all once –flowering. Within these five classes only one type of damask rose and a very few of the moss roses flower again after first bloom in late spring or early summer.
Old Garden Roses from Europe

The History of The Rose

2010-05-11T23:42:00.000-07:00

The History of The Rose
Almost from time immemorial the rose has been known. It is a native of nearly every country in the world except, perhaps, Australia and parts of the actual tropics.

We hear of it in the Scriptures when the Prophet Isaiah tells us “the wilderness shall blossom like a rose.” Again, in the Song of Songs, the Church is compared to the Rose of Sharon and in the Apocrypha the Son of Sirach compares wisdom to a rose plant in Jericho.

It is only fair to mention here that there are grave doubts as to whether the Rose of Sharon was really the rose as we know it, and not an entirely different species of plant.

Mention is frequently made of the rose in the Classics and what is considered by far the oldest record of it is that in the poems by the Greek poetess Sappho, who was in existence about 600 BC.

One portion of the poems said:

“Would Jove appoint some flower to reign
In matchless beauty on the plain
The rose (mankind will all agree)
The Rose the Queen of Flowers should be”

The rose is also mentioned in Homer’s Iliad and the Odyssey. It was a flower greatly prized by the Romans, who used it as a decoration at their feasts.

The National Rose Society gives 1596 as the date on which its known that Centifolia Rose also the Moss and Austrian Copper and Yellow were grown, progress was, however, slow from then, until in 1815 Monsieur Vibert founded his great nursery in France.

In 1829 Monsieur Desportes issued a catalogue of some 2600 varieties.

Rose growing at this period was made very fashionable in France owing to the Empress Eugenie’s great love of the flower, of which she endeavored to collect all existing varieties for her private garden at Malmaison.

Since those days the progress of rose-growing has steadily advanced both in France and other countries, so that now the lists of varieties run literally into thousands and the raisers too of choice specimens, amateur and professional, not only of this country but of France, Germany, and many other lands, would in themselves make a very formidable list.
The History of The Rose

Mulching the Roses

2010-04-18T21:56:00.001-07:00

Mulching the Roses
Mulching generously is one of the most important things you can do to encourage healthy rose growth.

Mulch insulates the soil protecting roofs from the stress of rapid temperature changes and it cuts down on evaporation, so roots are more likely to stay evenly moist.

There are many options from mulch materials depending on what is readily in your area. Some gardeners swear by homemade mulches of chopped leaves or grass clippings, while other prefer the convenience of purchased mulches, such as shredded bark.

Gardeners in your area can tell you which mulches are easily available locally and which work best for roses in your growing conditions.

For most mulches, you’ll want to apply a 2 to 4 inch deep layer in spring.

Check the depth of the layer every two to three months (or at least be a year) and add more mulch to keep the layer at the proper thickness.
Mulching the Roses

Large Shrubs and Small Climbers

2010-03-23T17:11:00.000-07:00

Large Shrubs and Small Climbers
This group of plants includes representatives of almost every official rose class – shrub types that are reputed to grow to a height from 6 to 10 feet, roses that are referred to as small climbers, and those that throw up stiff, arching canes as much as 10 to 12 feet in length.

The only classes or types not included are the shrub type miniatures, the polyanthas, and one or two types of small, modern shrub roses.

These are the transition roses - those between the true shrubs and the large climbers in size. You can use then in many ways.

They make good hedges as well as freestanding accent shrubs.

You can also spread the canes of the long-canned varieties – bourbons, hybrid perpetuals, hybrid rugosas, and hybrid musks – out in a circle, like the spokes of a wagon wheel.

Peg them to the ground and your rose will resemble a large colorful pinwheel.

Pegged plants often develop flowering shoots along their outspread arms, much more so than when they are left to grow in an upright position.
Large Shrubs and Small Climbers

The French Rose

2010-03-16T17:06:00.000-07:00

The French Rose
The French rose or Rosa Gallica, in spite of its name, has not been traced to any country, but is generally credited with being a native of Europe.

It is very hardy, of compact growth requiring close pruning.

The varieties in this class have very dark leaflets, 5 to 7 in number; though beautiful.

They are superseded by various Hybrid Perpetuals of the same shade, and can no longer be recommended except for large collections.

The best of them are Boule de Nanteuil, Oeillet Flamand, and odd, striped variety and Triomphe de Jaussens.
The French Rose

Tips for Container Grown Roses

2010-02-25T23:47:00.001-08:00

Tips for Container Grown Roses
If your planting a container grown rose, you don’t need to make a mound of soil. Place the pot in the hole to judge the depth of the plant as you would for a bareroot rose.

Add or remove sol as needed so the rose will sit at the right level.

Now remove the potted plant from the hole. If possible, use a sharp knife to carefully cut around and remove the bottom of the pot, then cut several slits up the sides almost to the upper rim.

Carefully grips the entire rootball and pot, slipping your fingers under the base to hold the bottom of the rootball.

Place it into the hole, turn the plant of necessary so it looks good to you, then finish cutting the side slits so you can remove the side of the pot.

If you can’t cut the pot, tip the container on its side and slide the rootball as carefully as possible out of the pot, then place it in the hole.

Add some oil to steady the rootball, then pour in some water so settle the soil sound the roots.

Continue adding more soil, then more water until the hole is filled. Use some of the remaining soil to create a mounded ring about a foot or two wide around the plant, to collect rainwater and direct it toward the developing root system.

After planting, water every few days, especially during warm weather to keep the roots from drying out.
Tips for Container Grown Roses

Medium Size Shrubs and Bushes

2010-02-11T20:18:00.000-08:00

Medium Size Shrubs and Bushes
Medium size roses between 2 to 5 or 6 feet tall, although some cultivars can easily soar to more than 10 feet in water parts of the country.

Roses of this intermediate size are generally shrubs or bushes. Shrubs are a rose class but the term normally refers to plants that have a wide rounded or unshaped form and branching canes.
These plants also tend to retain most of their bottom foliage.

This group includes representatives of several official classes of roses, including gallicas, portlands, chinas, teas, polyanthas, bourbons, rugosas and floribundas.

It also includes most of the cultivars that growers term “modern shrub roses,” such as the Canadian Explorer series and newer shrubs from the growers.

Medium size shrub roses make good back of the border plants, stand alone accents, foundation plants and hedges. The especially thorny varieties form an impenetrable barrier when closely spaced.

“Bushes “ roses differ form shrubs in that they are more upright and gangly and tend after a couple of seasons, at least o to lose their lower leaves and become barelegged.

Hybrid perpetual, hybrid teas, grandifloras and some of the leggier floribundas quality as bush types.
Medium Size Shrubs and Bushes

The Damask Rose (Rosa Damascena)

2010-01-24T05:43:00.000-08:00

The Damask Rose (Rosa Damascena)
The Damask Rose (Rosa Damascena) is found native about Damascus and various portions of Syria, from whence it was brought to Europe about 1573.

It is in a large degree the founder of the Hybrid Perpetual Roses.

Form this class, and also from the Provence, most of the rose water is distilled.

The Damask have pale green leaves (5 to 7 leaflets), green shoots, with numerous spines, are of vigorous growth and very hardy; the flowers are mostly flat of light colors and very fragrant.

They need but little pruning.

Hardy and Zoutman are the only ones worth cultivating; they are both very valuable white roses, albeit the first named is “green-eyed, like jealousy, envious it may ne, of the latter, who, though not of such a clear complexion, is free from ocular infirmities.
The Damask Rise (Rosa Damascena)

Planting Bareroot Roses

2010-01-09T23:29:00.000-08:00

Planting Bareroot Roses
Once the soil is prepared, it’s time to get your roses growing!

One word of advice here: It’s smart to always wear sturdy, gauntlet type gloves when working around your roses.

Most thorn pricks are mild, but in a few cases, they can cause serious injuries. It’s worth the little bit of bother to protect your hands from getting hurt.

As soon as you received bareroot roses, remove the packing material, trim off any damaged or broken parts, and set the roots to soak in a tub or bucket of water overnight.

The next day, take some of the soil you removed from the planting hole and create a mound at the based of the hole.

The height of the mound will depend on where you lived and on the individual plant you’re working with.

In mild winter area, you’ll want the bud union to be about even with or slightly above the soil surface; on cold winter areas, it should be 2 to 4 inches below the surface.

If you’re starting with an own-root plant, set the plant so the crown (the point where the canes emerge from the roots) is just below the soil surface.

To judge the planting depth - how high the mound must be – set the bareroot plant on top of the soil mound in the hole and lay a stock across the hole.

Adjust the plant so the bud union or crown is at the right level relative to the soil surface, as indicated by the stick, then add to remove soil from the mound so the rose will be sitting at the right level.

Spread the roots as evenly as possible over the mud, fill in around the roots with more soil to hold the plant in place, then add some water to settle the soil around the roots.

Add some soil and then more water alternating until the hole is full. Use some of the remaining soil to create a mounded ring about a foot or two wide around the plant, to collect rainwater and direct it toward the developing root system.

Lastly, mound mulch or more of the remaining soil over the exposed canes, leaving only the tips exposed, to keep them from drying out.

Leaving this mound on until warmer weather return in spring, causing the buds to swell, then remove it gradually (over a week or so).
Planting Bareroot Roses

Rose -The Story

2009-12-06T02:31:00.000-08:00

Rose -The Story
The rose has been the most cherished garden flower for all of recorded history, according to archeological evidence.

Achilles used the rose as am emblem on his shield, and the island of Rhodes made the rose its symbol.

Roses and depictions of rose flowers were found in the tombs of the ancient Egyptians, on clay tablets at Ur of the Chaldees in ancient Mesopotamia and in frescoes at the palace of Knossos on Crete.

Roses grew in the Hanging Gardens of Babylon and at King Solomon’s Temple in Jerusalem.

Worshippers at the Temple of Aphrodite on the Greek Island of Samos and Medean fire worshippers in ancient Persia revered roses. Sappho, the Greek poetess, wrote about them in roughly 600 B.C.

During the Middle Ages, roses were primarily in the care of monks and apothecaries who grew them in gardens with other medicinal plants.

But by the end of this period, the rose had regained its rightful place – elaborate rose garden graced European parks, castles, chateaus and manor house grounds.

Thus was born the concept of modern rose garden, which can be large or small and are adaptable even to the humblest of abodes.
Rose -The Story

Austrian Brier (Rosa Lutea)

2009-11-09T02:09:00.000-08:00

Austrian Brier (Rosa Lutea)
This is a native of the South of Europe, having single flowers, of a yellow or coppery-yellow color; leaflets 7 to 9 in number.

The shoots are of a chocolate color, well fortified with spines.

It is very hardy, and from its color and hardiness offers inducement to the hybridizers, but they will find some difficulty in getting it to seed.

These roses must not be severely pruned or there will be utter absence of followers; it is only necessary to cut away shoots that are decayed or need thinning and merely pinch the tops of shoots that are left.

It is a small but interesting family, and gives us the only hardy yellow roses that are of value.

There are three varieties worth growing, the Copper, Harrisonii, and Persian Yellow.

The foliage of this class has a slight odor like the Sweet Brier.

History of Rosa lutea
The Austrian Brier was introduced from the South of Europe in 1596. History first notices it as being cultivated in Turkey.

Nothing of its origin is as yet known, though supposition gives it a locality in the fertile soil of the Chinese empire.

This rose has produced a great deal of money to the French venders, especially those charlatans who market in strange places, where they never intend to appear again under the same name.

This rose has travelled from east to west as the Double Yellow Provins, Double Yellow Moss etc.

The different varieties form a beautiful and distinct group, containing the deepest and purest yellow Roses in cultivation – Persian Yellow especially; this was introduced from Persia in 1838.
Austrian Brier (Rosa Lutea)

Buying Roses

2009-10-19T04:43:00.000-07:00

Buying Roses
There are two main ways roses are sold: barefoot (plants that aren’t actively growing, with only packing material around their roots) and container-grown or potted (actively growing roses).

Barefoot roses are mainly available from late fall through early spring. The stems should be straight and sturdy, with an even, green color and the roots should be brown and slightly damp.

They may look unpromising at planting time, but they usually settle into their new home quickly and catch up to container-grown roses by the end of their first growing season.

Container-grown roses are enticing, because you can mostly see what you’re getting, and there’s more of an instant result when you plant them.

Look for a plant that has at least three sturdy canes – ideally at least ½ inch in diameter – coming from the bud union (knobby area near the soil line).

Look for a metal label on the plant, and check that against any other label on the plant to make sure the names match.

Be aware that the containerized roses sold at nurseries are often the same bareroot plants that were available earlier in the season, but these have had their roots trimmed to fit the pot.

Even though the top growth looks good, the plant may actually have a poor root system.

A few root tips peeking out of the drainage holes on the bottom of the pot are a clue that there are at least some roots.

Some retail outlets sell “boxed” roses, which are essentially barefroot plants with their roots enclosed in a soil-filled cardboard box.

These roses can be a good buy early in the season, before they begin active growth, but be careful if you see short growth on boxed roses.

The roots ar growing at the same tome as the shoots, and it’s easy to damage those tender roots when you take the rose out of the box at planting time.

Also, like potted roses, boxed roses have had their roots chopped to fit in their container, so they may have rather small systems to support their growth.

Buying roses in person gives you the opportunity to inspect the plants you want to buy and that’s big advantage.

On the downside, the selection is quite limited at most retail outlets. Sale prices can be tempted, but keep in mind that bargain plants may not be a good deal in the long run; they may be lower quality, they may not be suitable for your area, and they may not have been properly cared for.

If you’re a beginner, you’re better off buying a few good quality roses than many inexpensive but possibly unhealthy plants.

As you gain more experience growing roses, you’ll learn how to spot a true bargain and avoid a cheap, sickly plant.
Buying Roses

The Prairie Rose (Rosa Setigera or Rubifolia)

2009-09-25T20:42:00.000-07:00

The Prairie Rose (Rosa Setigera or Rubifolia)
The Prairie Rose is much the mostly valuable of all the non remontant climbers.

It is indigenous to the country, being found in Michigan and many of the Western States.

Seeds of the common variety were sown about 1836, by Messrs, Samuel and John Feats of Baltimore.

The seedlings from this sowing were fertilized by surrounding flowers, from some of the best varieties of roses grown at the time, and from this lot came Baltimore Belle and Queen of the Prairies, the two best known sorts.

The foliage is rough, large, 5 to 7 leaflets, generally of a dark green color; for rapidity of growth they equal or excel the Ayrshires, and surpass all other climbers in hardiness.

They bloom large clusters late in the season, when other summer roses are past and have gone their ways and succeed over a greater extent of territory than any other climbers.

Although decidedly inferior in quality to the Tea-Noisettes and Climbing Teas, their hardiness and superior vigor of growth make them of great value where the more beautiful members of the sisterhood are too delicate in constitution to be made useful.

When, then it is desired to cover walls trellises, old trees, unsightly buildings etc, with roses, none will be found to do the work so efficiently as varieties of the Prairie Rose.

It is very desirable that further development of this important class should be found; we should endeavor, by artificial fertilization, to produce hybrids, blending Hybrid Perpetual, Bourbon and Noisettes with the Prairies.
The Prairie Rose (Rosa Setigera or Rubifolia)

How to Select the Site for Your Rose

2009-09-07T15:01:00.000-07:00

How to Select the Site for Your Rose
Rose need at least 6 hours of sun per day to perform their best.

It doesn’t have to be six or more continuous hours; in fact many roses appreciate morning sun, a little midday shade, and then afternoon sun.

It is possible to grow roses with less than 8 hours of sun, but you’ll need to be willing to experiment with many different roses to see which work for your conditions and be prepared to keep trying despite some disappointments.

It helps to start out with roses that are noted for tolerating some shade, such as alba and hybrid musk roses.

Also look for roses that have reputation for excellence disease resistant, because roses growing in shade are less vigorous and are more susceptible to disease development.

Well drained soil is a necessity for virtual all garden roses. Roses grow best with a steady supply of moisture, but they don’t like soggy soil.

If you want to plant in an area where water stands after a rain, or where the soil tends to stay squishy underfoot for more than a few hours, you’ll need to lift the soil level by building raised beds.

It’s smart to test the soil in any site you’ve chosen for planting. Many gardeners overlook to test the soil and pH also nutrient levels, assuming that of other plants on their properties are doing well, the soil must be suitable for roses as well.

Sometimes that is true, but of there is some kind of imbalance, it’s much easier to correct the problem before you plant, or else choose another site that’s better suited for roses.
How to Select the Site for Your Rose

Cutting the Roses

2009-08-16T19:29:00.000-07:00

Cutting the Roses
The rose is perhaps the most attractive and widely used of all cut flowers for home decoration, and an abundant supply of blooms can be obtained from June onwards from even the smallest rose garden.

The certain amount of care is necessary to avoid weakening the bushes.

Do not take more than one third on the flowering stem with the flower and always cut just above an outward facing bud.

If the bush is not growing strongly, the flower stems removed should not bear any leaves.

Cutting blooms from newly planted roses is not generally recommended during the first season in the garden, although removal of a few blooms without leaves will do littlie or no harm.
Cutting the Roses

Rosa Hybrida Scandens and Rosa Multiflora

2009-07-13T12:49:00.000-07:00

Rosa Hybrida Scandens and Rosa Multiflora
Rosa Hybrida Scandens
This class takes in those sorts for which it is difficult to find a group where they can be appropriately placed; it gathers in waifs and is a kind of orphan asylum, a place of refuge for the abandoned and unknown.

No varieties in this group are of any great value; the old sorts, Mme. D’Arblay and the Garland, once the best known, are now almost forgotten.

Those which are most grown are Fortune’s Double Yellow, recently sent out under the name Beauty of Glazenwood, and La Saumonee.

Rosa Multiflora
Rosa Multiflora five to seven leaflets is a native of Japan, introduced into England by Thunberg in 1804.

It flowers in clusters, and continues for some time in bloom; the flowers are double, small, and of no great beauty.

The shoots have comparatively few thorns, which come in pairs.

De la Grifferaie is in England considered valuable as a stock on which to work the climbing teas and some other roses; we believe it may be good for this; it is not good for anything else.

Grevillia, or Seven Sisters, generally sent out under the latter name, is propagated to considerable extent in this country and is principally called for by tree peddlers, who make large sales of it, by means of exaggerated colored plates, accompanied by untruthful description.

It is as tender as the Tea-scented Noisettes, and is in every way inferior to them.
Rosa Hybrida Scandens and Rosa Multiflora

Grafted versus Own Root Roses

2009-05-30T20:13:00.000-07:00

Grafted versus Own Root Roses
Once you’ve decided on the roses you want, you may have a choice of buying grafted or “own-root” plants. Each has advantages and disadvantages.

Grafted plants are top growth of a desired rose attached to the roots or another rose (called the rootstock). This propagation technique enables produces to quickly create a garden-ready plant, and it allows the choice of different rootstocks to suit particular growing conditions.

Three of the most commonly used rootstocks in the United States are
Dr.Huey: Tolerates average to dry, alkaline soil.

Fortuniana: Well adapted to hot climates and tolerates nematodes (soil-borne pests); needs regular and generous fertilization and may take an extra year or two to settle in and produce good top growth.

Rosa multiflora: Well adapted to cold climates; tolerates acidic soil and nematodes.

The same top growth grafted onto different rootstocks can perform differently; that’s why two roses of the same name purchased from different sources may not grow equally well in your garden.

A growing number of nurseries have begun offering “own root” roses propagated by cuttings and allowed to form their own roots. Reported benefits of this approach include better winter survival, longer life and minimal chance of rose mosaic virus, a common rose malady.

If cold weather kills the top growth of an own root rose, chances are good that new growth will sprout from the roots, and this new growth will be the same rose you started with.

When the top growth of a grafted rose dies back, the new growth will be whatever rose was used as the rootstock; sometimes it’s pretty, but it’s rarely what you wanted for your garden.
Grafted versus Own Root Roses

Cutting of Roses

2009-05-06T10:13:00.000-07:00

Cutting of Roses
The rose is perhaps the most attractive and widely used of all cut flowers for home decorations, and an abundant supply of blooms can be obtained from June onwards from even the smallest rose garden.

A certain amount of care is necessary to avoid weakening the bushes.

Do not take more than one third of the flowering stem with the flower and always cut just above an outward-facing bud.

If the bush is not growing strongly, the flower stem removed should not bear any leaves.

Cutting blooms from newly planted roses is not generally recommended during the first season in the garden, although removal of few blooms without leaves will do little or no harm.
Cutting of Roses

History of Modern Rose II

2009-04-12T09:14:00.000-07:00

History of Modern Rose II
Hybrid teas are not only popular modern roses – the Floribundas are challenging them for the crown.

Their story goes back to Guillot the man who raised La France. In 1875 he introduced Ma Paquerette which had Rosa multiflora and a China Rose as its parents.

The small white blooms were borne in large clusters over a long flowering period in a small bush.

This was the first Polyantha Rose and the introduction of Orleans Rose in 1909 established the popularity of this type.

But the Polyanthas needed something more – extra height and extra flower size, and here the Poulsen families in Denmark were the originators of the Polyantha x Hybrid Tea cross.

These were the Hybrid Polyanthas or Poulsen Roses – Else Poulsen and Anne Poulsen.

Many other varieties followed, bred in Denmark, Brutish, United sates, Germany and other countries, the Hybrid Tea influence became stronger and stronger.

A new name was obviously required, and the U.S term Floribunda was accepted by the National Rose Society in 1952.

The milestones marking the history of the Floribundas are many, and any short list must omit numerous epoch-making roses.

Masquerade and fashion introduced new colors in the 1940s and Queen Elizabeth introduced a new size and elegance in the 1950s.

New shapes and colors flooded in during the 1960s, and the 1970s were marked by the growing interest in dwarfs and new colors such as Picasso (1971) and Iced Ginger (1971).

The 1980s saw Mountbatten take away Queen Elizabeth’s crown in the world of tall Floribundas.

There were several important developments during the final quarter of the 20th century.

In the 1980s a number of excellent low growing Floribundas appeared – Gentle Touch (1986), Sweet Magic (1987) and Sweet Dream (1986) all received the ‘Rose of the Year’ award.

Most of these dwarf Floribundas and a few tall Miniatures were classed as a new group – the Patio Rose.

Something similar happened in the world of Shrub Roses. A stream of excellent new varieties began to appear in the 1980s which had a spreading growth habit, and so these prostate and arching varieties were separated as a new group – the Ground Cover Rose.

Finally, a new type has appeared among the Climbers. Small flowers and small leaves but growing 2.5 m high – the Miniature Climber has recently appeared on the scene.
History of Modern Rose II