My 1940 Chevy Master Deluxe

2017-06-09T09:23:00.002-04:00

OK, been a while..

I bought a 1940 Pennsylvania License plate on EBAY this week. PLATE number 1EM40 that I will be using on the car. PA now allows you to use period correct plates on your antique cars.

This is the plate before I have it restored. When I get the plate back from the Restoration place, I will share a photo of that.

MORE to come.

2017-02-17T11:54:00.002-05:00

OK, it's been a while since I worked on the 40, and even longer since I posted on the BLOG.. It took me 2 hours to even get logged into the blog. What a mess.. Gonna try to keep it updated now.. More photos to follow..

Progress, is slow and painful.

2013-08-16T15:37:00.000-04:00

Welcome back. I have been working on the 40 a little bit the last couple weeks.. In my "spare" time. I moved it into a new location, that I call the "SHOP", and everybody else calls it something different.

Anyways, I bought a 180 Amp Mig Welder in hops of learning how to weld and to repair all the rusted steel. There sure is a LOT of steel than needs to be replaced.

Here are the photos of the last couple weeks.. More will follow, soon I hope.

I will update this as soon as I can folks..

Body being primed.

2013-04-07T09:03:00.000-04:00

Well, it has been a while, but the body is finally back from the dipper. Jerry has worked a lot on dipping, and stripping on this. Unfortunately, after 37 years, this is his final car.

Everybody, had at work.

Brian, Standing on a Jack Stand, is using a wire wheel to clean in the rain cutters.

Even dad got into the act and sanded.. Thanks DAD..

After a day of sanding, all SHINNY.... (with lots of holes to fi now)

ALL clean and dried.. We had a couple days break in the weather so we took it outside to dry in the sun.

The body is all primed now.. protected for the short term.

Lindsay wanted to help so she got all dressed up just for this.. She did great for her first try.

I may ad more captions to these photos in the future.. We got the car back to the shop and primed it over the weekend. We were unable to get it inside so it had to be painted with something as it WILL rain in the near future.

Enjoy.. I'll be back in a couple weeks.

Ed

Photos from the start

2012-09-24T13:06:00.001-04:00

I have been asked for some photos f the 40 Chevy before I started to work on it.. So here they are.. First photos are from the 80s I think, before mu Aunt had it repaired the last time.

Enjoy.

As you can see, it was in pretty rough shape to start with. If you can zoom in, the license plate was 1963, the LAST time it was on the road.

This is what it looked like when I finally brought it home.

NOT too bad, but, I thought I could do better.

Yes, that is our cat Joe trying to get into the picture.

The "Body" looked pretty good before I started, but I knew what I was going to find when I removed all the silver paint.

The rest of this blog shows just what I have gone through so far. The body is currently in a dip tank, and should be out in a couple weeks. When I get it back, there will be ZERO paint, Bondo, or rust on it. It will be like brand new steel. Yes, all the rust HOLES will be there, but the rust will be stopped.

2012-09-14T08:16:00.001-04:00

So, I showed up at Pennsylvania Metal Works in Monaca, PA to give Jerry a hand moving my car into the paint stripper. I brought Brian to help in case we had something heavy to move. When we got there, my 40 Chevy was once again sitting in a field. While this is not what I want to see, I understand that a little rain is not going to hurt it now.

First think we had to do was clear a way through the shop for the fork lift. Not much to move. He has a 1965 Mustang Fastback there that JUST cleared the forklift. (Don't worry, the Mustang is WORSE than the 40 Chevy)

Next we had to put the 40 on the forklift. Jerry has 2 LONG forks he slides on the lift for lifting bodies. They work pretty well, if you have a floor to lift.

Body is on the forklift headed back into the shop.

Jerry is driving, have to go slow as there isn't much floor left to support the body.

I brought Brian to help. We now needed the crane to get the body off the forklift.

Nice trunk floor.

Jerry had to drill some holes in the body to let the air out of pockets. I REALLY hated to see this happen.

We then placed the body into a rack. Now the whole mess can be dropped into the paint stripper.

We needed to lift it about 20 feet up to clear everything in the shop as we head to the stripper.

All you can see is the center of the roof. The rest of the body in IN the tank. It is actually floating right now.

Brian watching it float. We are waiting for the air to get out of the ONE 1/4 hole that was drilled.

It was slow, but it finally sank under the solution. It may come out in a week or so. Lots of paint needs to be softened before it can be washed.

2012-09-14T07:38:00.000-04:00

OK, It has been a while. I did get the doors back from the stripper. All clean and shinny. With major rust holes. I will need to learn a lot about welding to be able to repair them.

Yes, bare steel and yes, major hole on bottom.

The bottom of this one is completely gone. I believe it is the left rear. I can't fill that one with Bondo.

When I got then home, I primed them with Rust-Oleum Professional High Performance Enamel Primer (http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=158). I was worried that after I applied this primer, I would not be able to use Acrylic Lacquer paint on the car. After and Email to Rust-Oleum, they assured me that I can.

This really the can of paint that I used. Straight from Home Depot. http://www.homedepot.com/

Here are the doors after I got the primer on.

YES, I applied all the primer with a BRUSH. Looks like I have a lot of sanding to do as well.

I also primed a fender that I had here. Not sure I will use these fenders, but I have them.

Both fenders are right rear. One has a fuel filler and one doesn't. The one I need, has a fuel filler hole, but is rusted out pretty badly. The one without is pretty nice, but, no hole.

As you can see from all the photos, this was done late July. I failed to get these posted then. I have lots more work to do now.

Ed

2012-09-06T10:48:00.002-04:00

Well, it is now September, I haven't really done much on the car. I did see the body yesterday, it was once again sitting in a field. I did get the doors back from the stripper, and I primed them with Rust-Oleum. http://www.rustoleum.com/

An email from the company says:

"Hi Ed,

You can certainly use an acrylic lacquer over our Professional High Performance Primer, as long as you wait 72 hours. Let us know if we can be of any further assistance.

Sincerely,

Gina"

I Emailed Rust-Oleum at roproductsupport@rustoleum.com

They responded in 2 days.. VERY good company.

I will get back to working on this soon. A couple of other projects, and work need to come first.

Dash

2012-03-11T11:22:00.000-04:00

I have been slowly working on the dash. I put as much as I can in place to see what it will look like in the car. Here are the results.

This is about as good as I can do. I added HIGH gloss clear to it as I think it will be needed when IN the car.

Not the original gauges but an extra set I had for the mock up.

Well, that's it for the dash. Time to take it all apart and wrap it up for safe keeping. It will be a year before I get the body back so I can install the dash.

DASH

2012-02-19T13:38:00.000-05:00

Well, I have been working on the dash at home. Trying my hand a WOOD GRAINING. Not sure this is going to come out the way I had hoped, but here it is.

This is the dash with just the graining on it. It needs toner and clear.

This is the dash with just the base coats on them.

Close of just base coats

Clock delete covers.

Correct colors.

Spare radio cover. Scap.

This is just my first attempt.. more to follow.

Jan 5th, 2012 update

2012-01-06T07:42:00.000-05:00

Well folks, the HOOD is back from the stripper. NO rust, NO paint, NO NOTHING but clean steel. It is BEAUTIFUL........... Let the body work begin. I will be posting photos as soon as I get my camera down to the shop.

License plate

2011-08-21T15:06:00.000-04:00

Ok folks.. Seems that Pennsilvania will begin registrering Antique Cars using YEAR Appropriate plates, That means you can put a 1940 issued license plate on your 1940 car. My question is, Does this look good?

Thanks,
Ed

This is the ORIGINAL number that was on the car when it was NEW.. (I know, it was an OHIO plate, and I am in PA now)

We are moving now.

2011-08-21T14:59:00.000-04:00

Just a few shots of going on the trailer.

OK,, Well, the frame is on the trailer.. and ready to moved into a garage until the body is done..

The Steering wheel is in place.

Got the shifter set in too. ordered new spring clips to attach it.

The pictures always change the color.. it should be nutmeg with a rose tint. I didn't buy that color so they are now nutmeg.

While working on my 40, this beautiful 41 Cadillac came in for service. I sure LOVED working on that.

Ran good.. ordered a headlight dimmer switch on ebay to repair it..

Rollong Chassis pushed out and ready to load on the trailer.

Have the radiator out again to have it cleaned..

it rolls, and stops.. The RED strap is to make the parking brake work.

First sun light since November when I parked it.

In the SUN.

more sun.

Ready to drive away. Will be working on body parts now.. I will sandblast, dip, sand, clean, and PAINT as much as I can while waiting for the body.

more photos

2011-08-12T18:50:00.000-04:00

more photos

2011-08-12T18:44:00.000-04:00

just more photos.

Just photos.. no time to comment.. enjoy.

2011-08-12T08:11:00.000-04:00

Just adding a bunch of photos.. not time to comment on them all.. lots of work has been done.. enjoy, and comment as you wish.

I got the engine running again today.

2011-08-02T21:08:00.000-04:00

Well folks, after 9 months, I got the engine running again today. Must to my frustration, I have a major water/coolant leak, and a major oil leak. I must be slipping. I KNOW where the coolant is coming from, but I can't see the crack. Yes, it is a crack, or hole in the thermostat housing. I will need to order a NEW one. The oil leak is the engine side cover. I KNOW I have a new gasket. I know I put it on correctly. SOMEHOW, there is a gap between the gasket and the block causing the leak. NOT happy about this.. but, I will fix it.

here are some photos of the last couple days.

Enjoy

OK.. this is the new oil I am using in the engine. I KNOW, the factory put in straight 30W, but, finding that with the proper additives is very difficult. this oil has the correct ZINK... read about it at http://www.bradpennracing.com/Zinc.aspx

After I had the engine IN, I figured out I needed to replace the exhaust studs.. what a bitch that was... but easier than if the fenders were on..

Both are in now.

Lots of silver stuff.. no more replacing these.. EVER.

NEW brass nuts to complete the installation.

trying to get a photo of the timing marks.. I had the distributor out so I have to set it back up. I set the timing with an OHM meter.. Ok.. you can GUESS HOW I did that.

Those letters ate TDC, and the little ball is 3 degrees advanced, I think.

I better look this up in the book, cuz I really don't remember.

New points and condenser.

Again

NEW STEEL wire Spark Plug Wires.

Setting the timing.. OK.. you know how I did it, but you peaked.

Timing all set.

I found an OLD piece of cloth covered wire and decided to use it as the wire from the coil to the distributor. It LOOKS good..

Added a NEW end..

Had to add a temp ignition switch to be able to start it.

Simple.. wire from battery to switch and wire from switch to positive side of the coil.. Works so gooder.

New plug wires all set.

my Temparary fuel line. I don't want to put gas in the tank YET.. the chassis will be sitting a while before the body goes back on.

My temp guages for the test run. 12 Lbs of oi pressure at idle.

Can't really read them, but they are working.

This one is better.. 125 degrees and 15 Lbs of oil pressure.

160 degrees and 10 Lbs of oil pressure..

The Engine is RUNNING.. see and hear it on Facebook.

FINALLY...

2011-07-28T20:03:00.000-04:00

OK.. wait till you see the final picture....

Fuel line connection.

Fuel line.

More Fuel line.

New Tank.

Gauges for test run.

Parking brake.

Fitting in the fuel line to the fuel tank.

New Sending unit.

Set up the flywheel.

Turning the flywheel.

protect the frame now.

Wash the flywheel after turning.

Transmission is in.

tighten the clutch.

rear springs.

more rear springs.

torque tube.

Dad attaching the rear springs.

Dad working.

Dad STILL working.

Flywheel, and clutch.

All done.

Left front suspension.

Right front suspension.

front end.

BEAUTY!!!!

Adding an engine.

2011-07-22T08:30:00.000-04:00

Well, all the brake lines are in, Time to add the engine. Yesterday I could pick up the front frame. It was pretty heavy with the cross member and brakes, but it could be lifted. NOT ANY MORE...

Enjoy...

I added the bell housing as it has the rear motor mounts on it. No clutch, or flywheel yet. I need to have the flywheel cut today.

Looks good for a 70+ year old chassis.

Today I will add the Brake Master Cylinder and run the brake line across the rear cross member to the junction block. The master cylinder also has the clutch pedal included.

After the clutch is installed I can add the transmission, and then the rear end. I will need to install the Steering box to add all the tie rods and do a simple front end alignment. Sway bar link need to be added when the front end has some weight on it.

Brake lines

2011-07-22T08:22:00.000-04:00

OK.. so I got the brake lines in.. All that bending.. to FIT.. then take them back out to spray them with clear to help slow down the rust.

Making an 180 degree bend is not as easy as it looks..

Under the engine. This is why brakes are done before the engine.

Under the engine and down the right frame rail.

All the way to the rear brake hose.

Not too bad for an amateur.

More in a bit.

Frame today

2011-07-19T17:24:00.000-04:00

I started putting the frame back together. At the end you will notice the RIGHT side is all together. At 4:00 I figured out that I put the Left Spindle on the Right side. I have to take it all apart and start over now..

After I get all the frame parts bolted back on, I will re-shoot the Black paint to cover all the nuts and bolts.

Bolts go INSIDE the cross member

All nice new grade 8 bolts.

Front plash pan.

Rolled the fram over so i can tighten all the bolts and start on the front suspension.

Bolting the NEW front shocks on.

Nice and tight.

Both sides.

Might as well add the rear shocks while I am doing it.

All 4 shocks are on and tight.

Start to add the spindles.

Added the sway bar so i can put the jack stands under the mounts.

Add the spring and lower control arm.

Lower control arm is bolted up..

Ready for backing plate.

Use and Allen wrench to align the front end.

YEP an Allen wrench.

more frame work.

2011-07-14T20:32:00.000-04:00

OK.. So I NOW have the frame PRIMED.. All red lead is done, all sanding.. it is primed.. The photos are real good as I was standing in a cloud of paint while taking most of them. I will paint as much of the frame as I can tomorrow. I am headed to Canfield Swap Meet to see if I can find a right rear fender. I have 2 but they both need a lot of work that I don't want to do if i can find a better one. I also need a right running board..

I tried to get a picture of all of it.

Each section was primed, sanded, red leaded, and then primed, sanded and final primed.

Some parts look much better than others.

Some not so good.

The Cross Member looks pretty good.

I keep trying to get a picture of the whole frame. I can't get up high enough.

More black primer..

The black spots on the floor ate from primer running out of the holes in the frame. I tried to spray as much as a I could in that area.. I didn't want to miss any bare metal.

This is just the bottom primed..

Now we are complete

Not a lot of room to work right now.

The primer is pretty shinny.. but I guess that is how it is made.

Rear cross member.

front cross member again.

More cross member

ALL NEW Grade 8 bolts to hold in cross members, and brackets.

More bolts.

New Castle Nuts for the "SPECIAL" bolts.

New motor mount bolts. Grade 8 per original.

Frame repair

2011-07-11T09:57:00.000-04:00

OK.. So I found some holes in my frame. These are not a huge problem as they are on a part that provides one of the 18 body mounts. As seen in the photos, there are small rust through holes.

These are the rust through on the frame. The ONLY places where it rusted all the way through.

First I ground down an area around to get a good place to braze on a steel patch.

I brazed on 3 pieces of steel.

Final brazing is done. All brazing is ground down smooth.

I then ground down the braze to make it as smooth as I could.

Sprayed it with self etching primer

All primed now.

Add Nitro-Stan to finish it off.

Needs to be final sanded.

All set.

More FRAME work

2011-07-07T09:48:00.000-04:00

Ok.. I have sanded, and leaded, and primed the bottom of the frame. Here are SOME pictures..

Front frame horn

Left side middle.

Left side middle. I am still filling these pits.

More pits, but getting better.

Right side frame horn.

Right center

Center cross member

Center Cross member

Right frame

another coat of primer.. Letting it sit for the night. Will Nitro-Stan in the morning and weld up the rust holes on the right body mount today.

More to follow.

2011-07-06T12:54:00.003-04:00

OK, it has been a week since I got the frame back. Looks pretty good. Jerry at Pennsylvania Metal Cleaning Co. does do nice work. www.pennsylvaniametalcleaning.com/

I started to prime and sand the frame. I stated with the bottom. After I get it READY to paint, I will flip it over and do the sides and top. I will then paint the complete frame at one time.

I started with a self eching primer. I could NOT grind down all the metal to have a smooth frame. I sanded/scuffed as much of the frame as I could. The first primer is a light green.

I also did the bottom of the cross member. Priming, and painting the inside will be tricky, but I will find a way.

Cross member all clean..

Now the cross member is primed. I will sand it and add a THICK primer to try and fill some of the rust pits.

The complete bottom of the frame has been sanded/scuffed. primed and sanded. I am now applying Nitro-Stan to help fill most of the rust pits. I will let it dry a day then sand and prime with a black lacquer primer.

More Nitro-Stan on the frame rails.

More Nitro on the rails..