India by Rail

India Monsoon

2017-06-08T03:34:00.000-07:00

Part 3

It was time to return! I was back in India for my 3rd visit and for the first time in 3 years. It had been far too long. Visa applications were a lot simpler with the E-Visa system, and there were still many flight bargains to be had from the UK. Mine was with Qatar Airways for £420 return from Birmingham – I even managed to get a free upgrade to Business class! Booking train tickets from the UK however was still as difficult. I had big problems registering with IRTC, and eventually gave up setting up a new account and luckily was able to use an Indian friend’s account to book a train ticket for part of my trip.

Previous Chapters of India By Rail can be found here..............

Part 1

Part 2

Amritsar

I arrived late in the afternoon on the Sunday in fairly good shape thanks to my luxurious journey. It was hot and humid, which I did expect in July, but luckily the Monsoon was yet to arrive. I was staying at Tourist guest House, situated next to the Grand trunk Road. It was a decent budget hotel, with much needed air conditioning. I took a cycle rickshaw to a local bar, had a few beers and then had an early night, ready to explore Amritsar proper!

I was up fairly early and made my way out on the heat of the early morning sun. I strolled down a side road heading in the general direction of the Golden Temple

my first stop was for Chai for 10 Rupees at a busy junction, and then for breakfast a street food stall just around the corner. It was busy with locals - always a good sign, and was a local dish of curried Chickpeas, served with 3 pieces of a fried, called Punjabi Chole Puri. Excellent and great value at 30 Rupees.

Punjabi Chole Puri

Local Amritsar Mosque

My next stop was at a Sikh temple near the Town Hall, called Gurudwara Shri Santokhsar Sahib.

Sandals off, and head scarf on I went in to explore. It was a quiet temple that was at one end of a big rectangular water pool. It was a pleasant place to walk around and watch the people carry out their bathing rituals and prayers. Free entry.

Gurudwara Shri Santokhsar Sahib

I carried on walking past mosques, temples and general chaos that is typical of India. Unfortunately this whole part of Amritsar resembled a building site which you had to walk straight through. Men were cutting through concrete and there was lots of activity everywhere. You had to dodge construction traffic as well as the usual tuk tuks and hawkers. Its all part of a general “beautification” of the main road leading up to the Golden Temple” – or at least this is what the signs told me.

I was soon at the gardens of Jallianwala Bagh.

This is a memorial garden at the scene of the massacre of hundreds of unarmed Sikhs at the hands of the colonial British in 1919. A shameful period in British History. Bushes had been trimmed in the shapes of soldiers aiming rifles at the spots were they shot at the innocent men, women and children.

It was humbling having Sikhs approach me – a British man, with a welcoming smile asking for me to pose for photos with them.

Jallianwala Bagh Gardens

Jallianwala Bagh Memorial Gardens

I was now just around the corner from the Golden Temple! I bought an Orange headscarf for 20 rupees, deposited my sandals in storage, washed my hands and feet, and then walked through an archway that led to the magnificent Harmandir Sahib – The Golden Temple. Founded in 1577 by the fourth Sikh guru, Guru Ram Das, a huge Sikh complex and home to the Sikh holy book Adi Granth.

There was a stunning Gold building in the middle of a huge square lake.

Bathing rituals

Men bathed on the steps leading down to the lake, and washed themselves in the holy water. The water represents the Nectar of Immortality in the Sikh religion. It was fascinating and calming to watch the men go through their bathing rituals (women also bathe in the water shielded by female only bathing rooms)

I walked a few circuits of the lake taking in the beautiful architecture that surrounded it. The complex was very busy, particularly a walkway that led to the Golden building in the centre.

I found the area that served meals. Visitors and pilgrims alike (without distinction of background) are served free meals throughout the day.

The Harimandir Sahib runs one of the largest free kitchens in the world, serving 100,000 people on average daily.

I was lucky to have some help from a young Sikh visitor who showed me the way and how the meal was taken. You are given a steel tray and then led to a huge hall, where you sit down in long lines waiting for men to serve you with Dahl, Chapatti, a milky rice mixture, plain rice and a Jalebi. Very good it was too!

After the meal, you take your steel tray down to a big area where hundreds of people volunteered to wash the dishes! It was a huge operation carried out with a smile and great efficiency, ready for the next batch of pilgrims and visitors to eat. There was also another area were the food was prepared again by volunteers. Men and women sat in groups peeling onions and garlic, and huge vats of Dahl were heated on big Propane burners.

Volunteers washing up at the Golden Temple

I spent most of the day at the Golden temple taking in the sights and sounds of the stunning building. I felt like a bit of a celebrity as I must have posed for dozens of photos of pilgrims eager to get their picture taken with me for some reason!

After I saw the sunset over the lake, I headed out and retraced my steps back in the direction of my hotel. I stopped off for a delicious Special Deluxe Tahli meal (195 Rupees) at a famous veggie restaurant called Bharawan da dhaba.

Special Deluxe Tahli

I was up next day bright and early at 4 am to be taken by Tuk Tuk back to the Golden Temple to catch the sunrise. I arrived in darkness, and was surprised to see it was still very busy with pilgrims. Some were chanting and parading with flags around the lake perimeter. The sunrise was beautiful and people stopped walking to watch the sunrise over the east side of the Temple.

My Tuk Tuk driver then took me onto a Hindu temple, in one of the suburbs. I didn't catch the name of the place - so if anyone know let me know. It was a maze like temple, where you have to follow a specific route through the upper floors. sometimes crouching and you even have to walk through water in what looked like the inside of a cow!
It was beautifully decorated, and the people there were very welcoming, giving me banana and coconut (it was still only 8.00 AM so that was breakfast sorted!

The Mystery Hindu temple!

local bar

I had arranged with the Tuk Tuk driver to pick me up again at 3pm from my hotel to take me to the Pakistan border to watch the daily Wagah border flag lowering ceremony. It took about an hour to drive out to the border and I took my seat in the stands. The heat was now so intense at 45c and I sat in direct sun for over 2 hours watching the parade.

It was a bizarre spectacle carried out by The Indian Border Force and their Pakistani counterparts the other side of the big Iron gate that separated the 2 countries. An uneasy peace mostly remains between the 2 countries although there are frequent skirmishes in Kashmir.

The event is a choreographed march to the beat of an enthusiastic drummer positioned right next to my ear! There is drama and a lot of posturing between the two sides and a lot of bizarre marching as the event builds up to the lowering of the 2 flags in synchronisation, and the briefest of handshakes between the 2 sets of guards.

A fun trip out of Amritsar and good value at 600 rupees which it cost me to hire the Tuk Tuk.

Wagah Border Ceremony

Pakistan

I was due a more chilled day, so I got up around 9.30 AM and took a leisurely walk to the district the other side of the Grand Trunk road. I had another local Punjabi breakfast on the street then spent the rest of the morning poolside at the Country Inns Hotel (I am staying here for 1 night next week)

Punjabi breakfast

The next day I spent the day walking around the side streets of Amritsar, to different bazaars and communities. The people were all so welcoming and kind, offering me Chai and biscuits as I stopped and chatted to them. All happy to let me take their photos, in fact many insisted on it!

Delicious Samosa, Pakora and Kachori

Chai time!

The final district I visited was a predominantly Hindu area, close by to the Railway station. It was a charming area with lots of character and I met many lovely people on my way.

The old man pictured above was in a barn on a busy road. The barn was full of cows and buffalo, I assumed they were not destined for the slaughter house, as I watched people enter the barn and give them food and say a prayer whilst patting them. They seemed healthy and well looked after, content to spend the day eating.

I visited the Hindu equivalent of the Harmandir Sahib. It was a mini replica of the Golden temple called Shree Durgiana Tirath. It too was a Golden temple in the middle of a square lake. A lot quieter than the sikh equivalent, but worth a visit.

Hole in the wall to order your food

It was a great area top explore. A group of kids were playing - boys cricket/girls chasing and they were all so happy. A cow wandered around snacking on any left over food he could find, and was more than happy for me to take his photo!

I finished my day off with a few cold Kingfishers, Peanut Masala and Pakora at Bottoms Up Pub at the Grand Hotel, near the station. My final destination in Amritsar was to Amritsar Junction Railway station to catch 22.15 express train to Haridwar for the next stage of my India adventure!

The station was typically busy, with commuters and travellers waiting for their onward journey. My train arrived early and in darkness due to a power failure at the station. No drama, I found my carriage and took my berth. Sleeper carriage 5, Upper side berth for my overnight journey.

Sleeper class is my preferred class of travel on the Indian trains. Cheap prices, a great chance to mix with Indian travellers and families, and unrestricted views out of the open windows.

The train departed on time and I slept on and off through the night in reasonable comfort. I was eventually fully awake by 5.30 AM and it was already fully light.

I came down from my upper side nest and sat down on the floor by an open doorway of my carriage for the remainder of my journey, with sweet Chai from the Chai Wallahs who would jump onto the train as it came into the different stations.

View from my Upper side berth

It was great to watch the lush Indian countryside whizz past as the sun rose in the early morning sky.

Haridwar

My train arrived on time, so I gathered my backpack and headed out of the busy station. My hotel was only 5 minutes walk from the station, down a quiet side road. I was glad that I was allowed to check into my room early and take a welcome cool shower. My Hotel krishna Ji was perfect. Clean, comfortable rooms with decent aircon.

After breakfast I headed up to the roof terrace for my Indian breakfast and some strong coffee to give me a caffeine boost.

It was now about 09.00 so I decided it was time to go out to explore Haridwar.

My hotel was only a 5 minute walk to the Ganges, but about 20 minutes to the main Ghats.

I crossed the river and walked along the other side of the Ganges. There were many vendors, small shrines, kids playing some Baba's sitting under trees with their followers. The Baba's (or Sadhu's) are holy people in Hindu culture.

Rishikesh

2013-04-10T02:39:00.002-07:00

Part 2

India Photos

Mumbai

Both of my flights with Turkish Airlines were excellent, with plenty of leg room and both the food and service were great. I arrived at Mumbai at 05.50 and it only took 5 minutes to clear immigration and customs. After I picked up my backpack I withdrew some cash from the ATM and booked my taxi at the prepaid taxi desk.

The taxi cost 700 Rupees for an Air con cab (just an open window!). The roads were surprisingly quiet although it was still only 06.30. The sun was rising in the smog and I was on my way. The journey only took about 30 minutes through the different districts of Mumbai, until we reached Colaba, on the tip of Mumbai. I found my hotel, the YWCA ok and dropped my bags off. I can’t check in until 12.00 Noon, so will go off for a wander. It was already getting hot and I was tired and hungry. I had breakfast at Café Mondegar….scrambled egg on toast, tea and a water, cost 210 RPS. The food was good and the place was covered in cartoon paintings on the wall.

Cafe Mondegar

I walked round the corner to the harbour where the Gate of India was and the Taj Palace Hotel.

Gateway to India

Taj Palace, Mumbai

Both were very impressive, although the Gate of India had lots of touts who would pester you. It was still only 9.00 am and I was getting very hot and sticky so went to Café Leopold, a famous backpacker café to have another coffee to keep me going. Café leopold was at the centre of the Mumbai terrorist attack in 2010 along with the Taj Palace Hotel. Scores of people were shot by the Pakistani terrorists. I sat and cooled off, and read my book Shantaram, a novel set in Mumbai.

I still had time to kill so I decided to catch a bus to CST (Victoria Terminus) The bus only cost 2 RPS and it took me to the stunning Victorian station.

I took some photos and got a bit lost trying to walk back, so caught a cab back to the hotel for 100 RPS. It’s very easy to get lost in India, as there are few street names and the maps are hopeless. You lose all sense of direction as the roads are chaos and by now were packed solid.

I made it back to the Hotel YWCA and checked in (even though I’m Male and not so young, all are welcome) The room was good (2100 RPS a night for an AC single room) and the Air con worked well. I had a lie down and tried to get a bit of sleep, as I hadn’t slept for over 24 hours, but couldn’t. So I showered and headed out again to Café Leopold for lunch. I had Veg curry, rice and Naan and a couple of glasses of local beer (790 RPS). The food and service were good and it was a good place to sit and write my journal. I got chatting to the waiter, and he pointed out this man sitting at a table below…It was Gregory David Roberts, the author of Shantaram, the book I am reading!

I Went back to the hotel and managed to Skype home. I’m feeling shattered so will probably just chill and get my first bit of sleep for 36 hours…….

Oh well, got my second wind and had dinner at my hotel which was included in the room price had a lovely mixed veg curry, Dhal and Mutton Rogan Josh. Spicy too. Went round the corner back to Café Mondegar to have a beer.

The place was packed now, and I met a Business man from Bangalore called Ravindra. He was an interesting bloke and we talked about our different cultures and I’ve got an invite to meet his family in Bangalore next year! It turned out that he was a Freemason, and I think he was trying to recruit me.
A good night and the beer went down well!

Day 2

I Got about 5 hours sleep last night and woke at 05.30. My train leaves Mumbai tonight from CST at 23.05. I’m catching the Konkan Kanya express to Karmali, just outside Panaji in Goa. So I’ve got a full day ahead in Mumbai. I need to checkout of my room at the YWCA by 12.00, but I’m hoping to leave my backpack in storage until tonight.

I got up at 6.00 and walked to the harbour by India gate to catch the sunrise. The sky glowed red and the reflected in the Arabian Sea. It looked beautiful and very calming.

Street Family outside Gateway of India

I went back to the YWCA to have my breakfast which is included in the room rate. Breakfast was buffet style and I had porridge, Spiced Spinach Omelette, Curried fish patty, a sweet sponge called Dhokla and toast. Great start to the day.

I met a taxi driver outside my hotel, and he offered to take me on a tour of the Mumbai sites for 900 RPS, I agreed and he said he said he would be with me all day and then take me to the station at 21.30 tonight for my train to Goa. I went back to shower, pack and check-out, and was back with the driver 30 minutes later for my tour. First stop was Oval Maidan, where the great University of Mumbai and the High court were located. The architecture was incredible and was in a Gothic style.

Clock Tower, Mumbai

The buildings were the back drop to the Oval Maidan which is a huge recreation area where the locals play cricket. I sat and watched a match for a while and took a few photos.

Oval Maidan, Mumbai

Then we drove down Marine drive to a beach area called Girguam Chowpatty. It was a quiet beach with a few food stalls, and some families living in makeshift shelters on the beach, including this sweet little girl...

The Taxi driver was a funny bloke who was buying Bhang (Cannabis) and eating it to keep him going, a guy from Italy came for part of the journey and he was trying to buy some Heroin! It seems that this guy can fix you with anything you want.

Laundry Ghat, Mumbai

The tour continued to some holy Ghats surrounded by temples and then onto a Mosque. The Mosque was at the end of a pier which went out into the Arabian sea. The pier was very busy and was lined with cripples and people with horrific diseases. A group of men with missing limbs lay down in a circle and were rocking back and forth chanting. India is a challenging place to visit, but the adventure, the sites and the people make it all worth while. The tour continued to the Hanging gardens, which were so colourful and kept in pristine condition.

I asked to go to Brittania and Company restaurant for lunch, as I had read about it. It’s owned by an Iranian family and the old guy was a character who took the order and told you his life story! He claimed to know our Queen, he had a letter from her and her photo was proudly on display on the wall. I had an unusual dish called Chicken Berry Pulav and chapatti. (500 RPS.)

Chicken Berry Pulav

The tour ended back at Marine Drive so I could take some photos at sunset. The wall began to fill with people, to sit and watch the sun dip into the Indian Ocean.

Marine Drive, Mumbai

I walked back to Colaba and had some Chai, soda and Veg Biryani at a budget restaurant called Shakar (80 RPS!!) It was superb value. Mahindra my driver picked me up and took me to the station for my Konkan Kanya Express train to Karmali. It departed at 23.05 on time and that was it for Mumbai

…An eventful day and I saw loads of interesting things……Next stop Goa!

Goa

I got to the station in plenty of time and found my platform. No.18. the furthest one away. The station is huge and absolutely heaving with people.

CST Station Mumbai

I boarded the Konkan Kanya Express train and it departed bang on time. I shared my AC2 tier coupe with an Indian family with 2 young kids. They had no intention of trying to get to sleep until after 1.00 am, so I couldn’t either. I eventually got to sleep and slept on and off until 5.30 am. As the sun rose I sat at the open doorway of the train as the train went through the Indian countryside.

I don’t know why but we arrived 2 hours late at Karmali station. I caught a Rickshaw to my hotel, Afonso Guest House in Panaji. The hotel was in a nice quiet area and the room was clean and basic. I unpacked and had a cold shower and then was off out again. I had a nice lunch of Fried Prawn Rice at a restaurant called Viva Panaji, a nice Portuguese restaurant around the corner of the hotel. Meal, 1 beer and water came to 180 RPS, a bargain.

I hired a scooter for 2 days (500RPS). The scooter was nippy and was a great way to get around. I rode around the streets of Panaji and then across the river on the free Ferry to Candolim beach, I parked up and went to the sea which was lovely and warm.

I will go back there tomorrow, when I’ve got my swimwear on and my sun cream….it’s been hot, hot, hot all the way.

I got back to my hotel and went straight to sleep for an hour. I went out with my camera to take some pictures over Panjim at sunset, Panjim has a majestic white church at the centre, which looks over the city below.

Panaji, Goa

I had a great meal at a restaurant called Quarter Deck, on the sea front, it was more expensive than my other
meals, but the food and setting was perfect. Masala Calamari, Tandoori Bream and 2 beers came to 1050 RPS. I walked back to Afonso feeling full and tired after a great day.

I woke up at 07.00 after a good night’s sleep, AC is not included in the room price, but they have a good ceiling fan and you can leave the windows open as the area is quiet and the windows have Mozzie nets. I ordered my breakfast and ate it on the tranquil rooftop, overlooking all the terracotta tile rooftops and the surrounding area. You could easily be in Portugal.

I went out on my scooter to Old Goa which is 12km from Panaj, a brilliant ride along the banks of the river to the Old capital. I’ve got the knack of using the horn as often as the locals. There was some stunning old Cathedrals and churches and some old ruins in Old Goa.

Old Goa

It was once the most glorious city in all of Asia, and was labelled the Rome of the East. It’s now a UNESCO heritage site. It was a pleasant ride around the shady lanes. You can catch a free ferry across the river to Divar Island.

Island Divar

It’s like time stood still at Divar Island, there were swamps, rivers and farm land and some old houses and temples, the local community were warm and friendly. I offered some flowers that I had bought to the God Ganesh and was given some nuts in exchange by the man who looked after the temple.

After a good ride round and explore of the island I headed back through Panaji and onto Candolim Beach, this time with a towel and sun cream. I spent the rest of the afternoon at the Arabian Beach shack, and had the service of the lads working there. I had Mixed Biryani, several beers and water, plus the use of a sunbed for 500 RPS. The sea was incredibly warm and clear. It was a great afternoon relaxing for the first time this trip.

Arabian Beach shack, Candolim, Goa

I headed back to Panaji, stopping at a small bar for a cool beer and then back across the ferry. I spotted a local in a Villa top! I had a chat with him and then toured the streets of the town, to get my monies worth out of my tank of petrol.

Up The VILLA!

I dropped the scooter back and showered back at the hotel. It’s my last evening in Panaji, so I packed and then went out to eat at a pure vegetarian restaurant called Vihar, as I walked there I could hear beautiful singing coming out of the window of a small, unassuming church in the town. I glanced through the window and was surprised to see a body of an Old man lying in the aisle. It was a family funeral and the old fella was having a nice send off.

My meal was good, Hurdi Thali and fresh orange juice. 180 RPS. I headed back full and glowing after the day’s hot sun. I’ve arranged for an Auto Rickshaw to take me to Karmali station at 8.00 AM for my train to Madgaon.

I got up, had breakfast and was out of my hotel at 8.00 am and my Rickshaw was there waiting for me. We got to Karmali station, but my train was delayed. It finally came at 10.45, but the wait wasn’t too bad as the view over the platform was good, the Chai was refreshing and I had Shantaram to keep me company. I caught my sleeper carriage which was nearly empty and had a good 1 hour train journey to Madgaon.

Sleeper Class, Konkan Kanya Express

The view out of the open windows was beautiful. There were fields, lakes, rivers trees and small villages. Huge waterbirds were taking off, an Eagle was gliding overhead, and a Wild boar was running through the trees.

The train arrived an hour later, to quite a large station. I gave my backpack in to the luggage office for the day (15RPS), and hopped on the back of a motorbike taxi to take me to the centre of Margao.

It is a bustling market town, full of shops, people and thousands of scooters and bikes.

Madgaon

I’ve got 6 hours to take in all the sites around before I need to get back to the station for my night train at 19.25. I wandered the streets taking photos of the people, and soaking up the vibe. I went to the market and it was wierd to hear an Englebert Humpberdick CD playing from a music stall!

I’ve now stopped off for lunch at a restaurant, called Venice gardens and had Chicken Xacuti and Chappati with a Kings beer. Cricket was on in the background and the score is India 114-2 against the Aussies. The food was very Hot so I needed an extra Kings beer to cool off! Very tasty and good service.

I went for another walk round the town in the blazing heat, hottest so far, so gave in and returned to the bar. It was now 274-7 in the cricket. I cooled off under the ceiling fan.

I caught the motorbike taxi back to the station and collected my back pack. I had a few snacks, Samosas and Pakoras, and waited for the train. It was good people watching.

My train, the Mangalore Lackshadweep Express to Kochi was over an hour and a half late for the 700Km journey south, but that seems the norm. The train came, and I found my berth, top bunk this time. The train journey was good and I got my 5 hours sleep.

Kerala

I woke to a fabulous sunrise over the South Indian countryside, a low mist was hanging in the fields as the orange sun started to glow. I watched sitting on the floor with my legs hanging out of the open door, I could have sat there all day.

The train had made up for lost time overnight and arrived at Ernakulum early. Ernakulum is the commercial and business part of Kochi, my guest house is in neighbouring Fort Kochi. I took an auto Rickshaw to a brilliant Homestay/guesthouse called Sajhome, my base for the next 5 days. I was given a warm welcome by Saj the owner and his 10 year old daughter Natasha, she was a gem and they all made me feel at home. I was served a delicious Indian breakfast on the balcony, whilst my bags were taken to my room and I signed in. The room was very nice, and good Aircon. I think I will enjoy my stay here. I had a cold shower and went to see the sites of Fort Kochi.

Fort Kochi, Kerala

There were Churches, beaches and the famous Chinese fishing nets on the seashore. It was a good place to soak in the atmosphere of the nice laid back town.

I had lunch and Kingfisher at a bar/restaurant called Seagull. Another tasty curry, and nice cold beer.

It’s very hot now, and the shade inside the bar was definitely needed. I walked back to Sajhome full, and came across a film crew filming an Indian movie, crowds gathered as the male and female Stars preened themselves before filming. Filming began and I took photos of the scene.

I then went back to the cool refuge of Sajhome.

Had a cold shower and went out and walked the 10 minute walk to the fishing nets to catch the sun setting into the Arabian Sea. It is one of the best places I have come across for sunsets, the silhouettes of the nets against the glowing golden sun was incredible.

A bit further up from the nets is Kochi beach, which was full of Indian families and couples and the odd Western face, all mesmerised by the sunset. Fires were been lit on the beach and the smoke added to the atmosphere.

Behind the Fishing nets were fresh fish stalls were you could chose some fish to be cooked at a nearby restaurant.

I had a nice big Red Snapper and some huge Tiger Prawns for 500 RPS. These were cooked and served at the shack/restaurant behind the nets. They were delicious, cooked in Ginger and served with a Coconut Rice.

I then went to a Tabla and Sitar concert at the Kerala Kathakali Centre for an hour of superb music for 200 RPS. As I walked home in the darkness the sky was lit up by a distant thunderstorm. I got back to Sajhome, just as the rain came after another brilliant day in India.

Wow! What a day. I was awoken by Saj, knocking at my door at 6.00 AM. After getting dressed I had breakfast on the balcony and was then picked up my driver called Joy. We were off to Kodenad to an Elephant sanctuary on the river Pirayer. The journey took about an hour and half through towns and then onto villages. We passed loads of huge Churches and saw lines of pilgrims walking along the road side, each carrying a Crucifix on their shoulder, in preparation for Easter this weekend.

We arrived at the wide river and waited for the elephants to be bought down. Three elephants arrived with their trainers. It was sad to see them led down with chains around their huge feet.

They were walked to the river and firstly they drank the water with their trunks, before lying down into the water for a good scrub down.

It was a great sight, I wish I could have helped but at least I was up close and in the water next to them. It lasted about an hour and then we off to our next stop the Waterfalls at Athirappilly. On route I had a keralan breakfast of Masala Dhosa and Vada Pav and water (78 RPs) and we then stopped off on the banks of another river were people were bathing. I was offered some Brandy and Coke by a group of men who were laughing and singing in the river, they kept saying More, More More! So 3 Brandy’s Later I moved on!

We arrived at the waterfalls which were spectacular even though the Monsoons are still a month away. There were Monkeys in the Woods, and Butterflies fluttering about. It was like Paradise and you can see why they call Kerala Gods Own Country.

I finally got dropped back at Sajhome at 17.00, got showered and changed and went out for a meal at a Shack called Reggae Café and had a hot Curry of Red Snapper and Coconut rice and Sprite (420 RPs) and washed it down at Bar XL with a Kingfisher Beer (130 Rps).

A great day out, tomorrow I have a lie in before going to my Houseboat tomorrow at 10.00 AM.

I got up at 8.00am and had my breakfast on the balcony at Sajhome, another perfect Keralan breakfast of Pineapple Lassi, Rice pancakes and a coconut curry sauce, oranges and chai. I left Sajhome at 10.00 am for the 50km drive to allepay on the backwaters.

My Houseboat was there waiting, and was huge! A lovely sitting area with comfy chairs and a dining table, a great Ensuite double bedroom with aircon, a kitchen and the services of 2 crew.

The captain Sunil and a Chef called Chandran. The boat left at 12.50 through a lake and down the backwaters. The scenery was perfect. Wild birds were fishing, people were fishing from the shore, Canoes were transporting fresh Mangos and I felt like I was in heaven! We travelled along the backwaters with some Indian music playing that I had bought with me, and moored up at 1.30pm at a quiet spot, for lunch. I had Coconut cabbage, Ladies finger curry (Okra), Samba Dhal, Grilled freshwater fish, Mattan Rice and Poppadum’s, with some Honey bee Brandy that I had bought on route. The meal was the best I have ever eaten. So many flavours, you could taste every spice used, the cardamom, the Chilli’s, the Ginger, the whole thing was so intense.

I feel like I have won the lottery with my friends Sunil and Chandran! The heat was intense but a nice breeze was blowing through the deck. Can you get much better a lifestyle than this?

After lunch we were off again into the lakes and backwaters, the scenery was so peaceful. We passed kids playing cricket, men on boats bringing home their catch.

We moored up at 5.30pm for the night. The sun was still hovering in the sky, and the clouds were darkening. I bought some huge prawns that were to be cooked as part of my evening meal. I went for a wander to take some photos of the setting sun. I went back to the boat to do a spot of fishing off the side of the boat. I caught nothing which was a good job as the evening meal arrived, and was as tasty as lunch and there was enough to feed a family of 4! The wind picked up and the rice fields were swaying in the wind. The cloud were so dark, ready to unleash the rain. The storm came and was spectacular. My Honeybee Brandy was empty and I retired to bed as drunk as a sailor!

I woke up with a bit of a sore head at 07.00 AM, I showered and got dressed and was served breakfast on deck. Omelette, Toast, Bananas and coconut, and Chai. A good start as we set off across the lake back to where we started from. I thanked my 2 crew, who really looked after me. The food was delicious and going through the backwaters on my own houseboat was a great experience.

I was met by my driver to be taken back to Fort Kochi. Today is Holi, the Hindu festival of colours. As a rule it is not celebrated that much in South India, although there is a community of Northern Indians in a suburb near Jew Town in Fort Kochi. I have asked to me dropped off there so I can join in with the fun.

Happy Holi!!

We found the place in the grounds of a temple. Kids were running around with bags of brightly coloured powder, and were throwing it over each other, and at anyone close by. Others had water guns. The atmosphere was good, lots of laughter and lots of people covered in bright colours. I was covered in Greens, yellows and bright pink!

I joined in the action, and watched the fun, taking photos.After a while I walked outside, looking for a Rickshaw to take me back, but then came across some other celebrations unrelated to Holi. There was a crowd of people as some bare-chested young men lined up to have a 2 metre Metal spike pierced through their cheeks. Some looked anxious, but none showed much sign of pain.

After they had been spiked they went off and did a crazy dance to some beating drums. The drums were getting quicker and a brass band joined in. The atmosphere was so intense, with so much going on. Hundreds of people watched and I felt lucky to be there, a memorable sight. I bought a Lungi, a traditional dress worn by men in South India for 150 Rps. I might go all David Beckham and wear it out later!

I got my Rickshaw back to Sajhome, and checked in back to my room. My back pack was there ready, and my laundry had been cleaned and left folded on the bed. I showered and tried to remove the coloured paint on my face and in my hair. 2 showers later I still have Pink ears and green eyebrows!

I’m going to a Kathakali dance this evening (arranged by Saj), you can watch them get ready at 5pm. I went out at 2pm for a bite to eat at a cool trendy Art Café called Kashi for a light lunch, Chicken salad sandwich and lemonade with Ginger and Honey. There are some nice paintings and bronze sculptures in there, a good chillout place.

I wandered around for a bit, then made my way to Greenix village where the dance show was held. The performances were great. Lots of brightly coloured costumes and faces. The dances are all in the hand movements and facial expressions.

I ate at a restaurant on the way back home and was in bed by 9PM, after another crazy day in India!

I ate another delicious breakfast on the balcony, Masala Dhosa, Water Melon, Pineapple Lassi and Chai, and was off out at 9.00 AM. I’d decided to go to Jew Town, another suburb of Fort Kochi, I got dropped off by a Rickshaw for 50 Rps and had a walk round, there was a synagogue – closed, Jewish cemetery, Dutch palace – didn’t look much like a palace now, and loads of antique shops.

The items inside them were impressive, ranging from old carvings of Hindu Gods, Christian items, Old furniture and even an enormous long boat.

The area didn’t really excite me so I walked back to Sajhome for a quick cold shower – It is REALLY hot and humid now. I went back towards the harbour and watched some lads play cricket on bit of parkland.

The kids were friendly and wanted their picture taken. After I went to a quaint little tea/coffee shop called Teapot. I had a cup of filter coffee and a slice of chocolate cake 160 Rps and was delicious.

Then went for a couple of beers at Bar XL before my cookery class at 2pm. My class was at Maria’s on Burgher Street (cost 600 Rps). I was joined by an Aussie and 2 German students. Maria was a good teacher and spoke good English. She went through the recipes explaining all the spices and ingredients that were to be used. Between us we made Chicken Masala, Veg Moilee, Veg Thoran, Dhal and Coriander Mint Chutney. We ate our meal at the end and it was delicious – how talented we are!

Still full I only managed some ice cream and a couple of fruit Juices out later that evening. It’s my last night in Fort Kochi, although I have a full day there still before my overnight train – The Ernakulun Orka Express tomorrow night at 8.10 PM. I’m going to use the swimming pool at the Grand Residence Hotel on Princess Street to Chillout for the day (500 Rps for use of pool and sunbeds)

I had Indian breakfast as usual on the balcony of Sajhome, packed my backpack and checked out. Saj has allowed me to leave my bags there for the day. I had a coffee at Teapot and then went to the Grande Residence to use the pool. It was quiet there and I was able to catch some sun and cool off in the pool. The heat is really intense in Kerala and very humid, so the pool was a good place to escape. I spent most of the day there. On the way back I got chatting to a Rickshaw driver, he had pimped up his Tuk Tuk and called it his little Ferrari!

I went back to Sajhome to pick my backpack up, and took a taxi to Ernakulum station, we went past churches on route that were packed because it was Good Friday.

The station was busy as usual, I found my spot on the platform, were I sat and got eaten by the Mozzies! This journey I’m travelling Sleeper class which is a lot more basic than AC2 class and very cheap….392 RPs for a 15 hour 750 KM journey to Thivim.

Sleeper Class - My bed for the Night!

It was actually ok, although my side lower berth was too short and the bed was hard, no pillows or blankets are provided. There was a friendly family in my section who were good to talk to, and I felt confident to leave my bag there when I went to the toilet.

Indian family

Goa

Again it was nice to wake up to the sun rising on the train, and the countryside was breathtaking. I got to Thivim at about 12.30 PM and took a Tuk Tuk to Anjuna about 30 minutes away. We arrived at Vanilla Guest house, my base for the next 2 days. Very cheap 350 RPS a night (about £4!) It was comfortable and clean with Ensuite, so I was pleased with my choice. I arranged with the owner to hire a scooter from a neighbour for 250 Rps a day, it’s the best way to explore North Goa. I headed to nearby Vagator about 10 Km away which had good views from the cliff top down to the Palm tree lined beaches.

Both Anjuna and Vagator have loads of market stalls that sell Hippy clothes and crafts. I had a ride round the narrow lanes, passing cows wandering in the roads, and plenty of bars and restaurants. I had a few beers back at Anjuna at Guru to watch the sunset over the Indian Ocean.

The next day I was up early and out on my scooter by 9.00AM, I headed to the other side of Anjuna to The German Bakery, a place recommended in Lonely Planet. Had a great breakfast there: Pancake with apple, Mushroom and Veg Omelette, Fruit Juice, Beetroot juice and a coffee. Delicious in a very calm, chilled out setting.

Back on the bike and I rode for 2 hours through Vagator on to Chapora, across the river Chapora and found Mandrim. A beautiful beach with white sand and a lagoon fringed by palm trees, not many people here too.

It was great trip out and I covered over 60 miles. I went back to Vanilla and showered and packed my stuff away, and went back to Thivim station for my overnight Konkan Kanya Express train back to Mumbai. The train came on time and I found my carriage and seat. I’ve gone for the basic Sleeper class again, this time, side upper. The train was fairly quiet to start with, all was good.

A few stops later more people got on, so I tried to make myself comfortable on my top berth. I slept for an hour or so with earplugs in, and awoke with the lights out. I couldn’t believe how many people were now on board. The train was packed to the brim. Men, women and children were sleeping on every available bit of floor space. I think I’m stuck up here for the night! There were lots of comings and goings and I didn’t get much more sleep. I felt like a refugee! Most of the people got off at a suburban station on the outskirts of Mumbai, so I was then able to get down and check that my chained backpack was still there and sort my things out. My train arrived at Mumbai CST at 06.15. I had 24 hours in Mumbai without a hotel!!

I left my backpack at the station for 16 Rps and caught at taxi to Colaba to have breakfast back at Café Mondegar - where my journey began all those days ago. I took a stoll up to the Gateway of India as the sun rose into the sky. The street families were stirring and everything was how I remembered it.

Then it was back to Mumbai CST station to collect my bag and catch the local train to Vile Parle, a northern suburb of Mumbai, near to the airport and Jahu beach. The trains ran every 30 minutes and I watched the trains come and go, bringing and taking thousands of commuters to their destinations. I got my train at 10.30 for the 30 minute ride through 12 stations. The train was okay to start with, as we went through the different districts of Mumbai. Past Industrial areas, and through track side slums.

Then 5 stops later, it seemed like the whole of Mumbai had got on board. We were jammed in close together, and I had a big backpack and day bag to keep an eye on. People dived on the train at each station and it was really claustrophobic. The train remained packed and was a stampede at all of the stations. Not a journey I would like to do every day, but a worthwhile experience.

I arrived at Vile Parle a nervous wreck and exhausted! I caught a Tuk Tuk to Jahu beach to a hotel I had emailed before my journey. The Hotel Sea Princess was right on the seafront and you can use the pool and facilities there for 500 Rps. It was a very nice 5* hotel, with a good pool and sunbeds to relax on. I showered in the changing rooms and washed some of my clothes in there too! My first wash in 24 hours, I’m glad I chose to indulge in this luxury for my last hours in Mumbai. It was very, very hot there, and the pool was the only escape. The food and drink was expensive there, but it was my last day, so why not!

There were loads of people on Jahu beach, families and couples, and groups of teenage lads walking up and down it. Not sure what was going on but it was very busy.

I watched the sun go down for the last time from the hotel terrace area, then caught a Tuk Tuk to Mumbai International Airport.We must have had half a dozen "near misses" on the way to the airport, but I made it there in one piece. I had 8 hours to wait before my 05.50 flight. They’re a strict bunch here, you can’t go into the airport until 4 hours before your flight, and you can’t go into the waiting areas until 6 hours before your flight. So I sat on the curb outside in the heat trying to stay awake!

A fantastic journey, very different to my trip to Northern India last year. Its a more laid back way of life in Goa and Kerala. The food has been fantastic, the locals friendly and its been great to take in the atmosphere and culture. I will be back!!

Please click on links below!

Last years Blog (Part 1) is available here

Taj mahal Blog

Cappadocia Blog here

Euro-Rail Blog is available here

Istanbul Blog Here

Baltic Blog Here

Thailand Here

Hong Kong Here

Croatia Here

Nimes Here

#microadventure Here

London Here

INDIA PHOTOS

2012-08-24T00:49:00.000-07:00

I was up at 3.45 this morning, and the nerves had already set in.
I arrived at the airport in good time and I checked in my
backpack, which weighed about 20kg. This is it now, Billy no mates in
the airport. It felt very surreal, and my mind was working overtime,
thinking about the next 20 days.

It felt odd being on my own in the airport and I spent the next 50
minutes clock and people watching, and avoided the bar.

Thankfully my flight from Birmingham to Munich was on time and I filed
through to departures at 6.30 am. With typical German precision the
plane departed on time and I was off.

It was a smooth flight and the blueberry muffin was delicious.
I landed in Munich and the airport was huge. I checked with the
information desk and I’m able to leave the airport before my flight this
evening in 9 hours’ time. I’ve decided to go to some thermal baths - in
fact the biggest in Europe. Therme Erding is a complex of over 20
saunas and swimming pools and Jacuzzis etc. A Great way to unwind
and chill before India.

I spent over 3 hours at the baths and then got my taxi back to the airport.
I still had over 4 hours before my flight, so i explored the airport and found a
restaurant to have some food and a drink, I decided to have a curry to
prepare my stomach for the next few weeks in India.

Delhi

I arrived in Delhi this morning at 8.00 am Indian time. I hadn’t slept a
wink on the plane, and it took me ages to go through passport control.
I collected my bag ok (weighs far too much), and managed to find the
Airport Metro Express underground which takes you into New Delhi
centre. There was lots of security and it was all very efficient, clean and
new..... That’s where it ends!

I arrived in central Delhi to a chaotic mess of cars, rickshaws, dogs and people
everywhere. There was so much noise! Everywhere you look there is
something going on. All of my senses were working overtime!

I just wanted to drop my bags off at the hotel, so I could have a proper
explore. After asking a few police men they pointed me in the direction
of Pahar Ganj, the area my hotel was in. I got a lot of hassle
from the Indian touts, trying to get me to use their hotel/Rickshaw/taxi etc.
The Indians just won’t leave you alone! All good fun though. I found my
hotel - Hotel Hari Piorko, and my room is actually ok. It was fairly clean
and the hot shower was refreshing. (1500 RPS a night)

I decided to carry on without sleep as there is so much to see. After an
unsuccessful rickshaw ride I found a travel agent and hired a driver for
the day, that drove me round to all the main sites -Raj Ghat, Lotus
temple, India gate etc.stopping off for lunch of chicken curry, garlic
naan and cold beer.

I was dropped back off at the hotel, freshened up and I'm now out again
(7.00pm). I found a nice bar/restaurant at the Metropolis Hotel (Main Bazar Road)
which has Wi-Fi, so I’ve started this journal your reading over a cold
Kingfisher lager and Tandori Chicken. Bliss.
I will hopefully get some sleep later,as I’ve not slept properly in 36 hours,
before getting the overnight train tomorrow to Varanasi on the River
Ganges. I’m loving it so far!

I woke up this morning at 08.00 after going to bed last night at 9pm,
sleeping for about 9 hours of that. I was feeling a lot more refreshed and
I packed my backpack again ready for my train journey later this afternoon. I
ditched my day bag and bought a North Face bag in the nearby bazaar for about 400
Rupees (£6) as the straps on the old one were rubbing and the stitching
was coming apart due to its weight!

I had my breakfast on the roof terrace. The roof terrace of the hotel is
beautiful with lots of potted plants and a nice seating area and the
weather today is hot. Lovely hazy sun.

Travellers, New Delhi

My breakfast consisted of tea, scrambled egg on toast and a diet coke.
I had to check out of the hotel by 12 but I could leave my main bag in
reception, as my train to Varanasi doesn't leave until 18.45. So I was able
to go for a wander, taking in the atmosphere of the streets and markets around
Pahar Ganj.

Street Market, New Delhi

After catching some sun on the rooftop of the hotel, it was time to head
to the station. I was looking forward to this experience. I picked up my
backpack from reception and caught an auto rickshaw to New Delhi
station. It cost 50 rupees (60p) for the ride.

After reaching the station I went to the enquiry desk who told me that
the train departs from platform 12 at 6.45pm.

Reservation List, New Delhi Railway Station

I headed to the platform and checked the board which had reams of
paper attached to it which tells you your carriage and seat number.
The train was already waiting at the platform, but I couldn’t get on until
it had been cleaned. At 18.15 we were allowed to board. I found my
berth okay in AC 2Tier, and it all looked good. There was a pillow, clean
sheets and a blanket for each passenger and another man came round
with a towel.
The berth had 4 people in it, with 2 on top and 2 below. I shared with a
middle aged Indian lady and 2 Indian men.

The train departed at 18.50 and we were on our way. Various Hawkers
would walk down the aisle selling hot Chai (tea), playing cards, crisps,
naan breads etc. I bought a tea for 10 rupees. (15p). the chai (tea) was sweet
and nice, and very welcome. Later another man came round and took a
food order. I ordered a Chicken Biryani. The food came but it didn’t look
good and it wasn’t very warm, so I left most of it, not wanting to risk an
Upset stomach. Luckily it only cost about 100 Rupees.

After the meal it was time to make the bed and try and get some sleep.
The seat which made your bed was rock hard, so I knew I wouldn’t be
able to get much sleep, and I dozed in and out of sleep for most of the
journey, being gently rocked by the train motion.

I needed the loo during the night, and the toilets were 3 squat types and
1 western toilet. Luckily I only needed a wee!

Squat!

It started to get light at about 06.00 am, and I was able to see that we
were passing through nice green countryside, with a few farm workers
out in the fields. We eventually arrived at Varanasi Junction station at
08.15.

Varanasi Railway Station

Varanasi

Namaste! After arriving at Varanasi on the overnight train I met the hotel rep at
the station. It felt warmer and sunnier in Varanasi, which is apparently
the oldest city in the world. There were lots of people in the station, and
a cow was waiting patiently at the enquiry desk!

The pickup was a hair raising tuk tuk ride through the old streets of the city,
until we reached the back alleys of the town. We walked the rest of the way.
There is not a chance you could find it on our own. There are a lot of cows
who wander around as well...maybe they are lost too!

I Finally got to the hotel - Ganapati Guest House. The hotel is fantastic.

Ganapati Guest House, Varanasi

There is a courtyard which is quiet and peaceful in the centre and the
views from the terrace and balconies are amazing over the River
Ganges.

Ganapati Guest House

There is a music school (Baba school of music) attached to the
guest house, and I have booked myself a sitar lesson tomorrow at 12!
I took a quick shower to freshen up after the journey, and then went for
a wander down the hotel steps to the banks of the river. There are lots
of Ghats, which are a series of holy steps down to river where people
pray, wash themselves, wash clothes and pray some more. It is a very
holy place and is brilliant for people watching.

Ghats Ceremony, Varanasi

Each Ghat has a meaning or purpose, and is attached to a God or Goddess and temple.
One of the Ghats is the burning Ghat, where they cremate people. Over
200 a day! It is a strange site. They bring the body down the steps. The
body is wrapped in gold material and is placed in the Ganges. Male
family members pour water into the mouth of the person until it is full.
It is then burned on wood for 3 hours. It is very surreal to see it happen
in front of you.

On the Ghats, Varanassi

There are lots of cows, dogs, goats and 1 monkey ran past me whilst
wandering about.

I was approached many times by boat hawkers plying their trade. Taking a boat trip on the
river Ganges was high up on my list of "things to do" so I agreed a trip with one of the boatmen.
The boat owner is a man called Raj, who spoke good English and explained the meanings of the
various Ghats. It was a brilliant experience and well worth the 150 rupees.

After the boat trip I returned to the roof terrace restaurant of my hotel and
had a mixed veg curry and naan for lunch. It was delicious, and cost 200
Rupees.

Luckily tonight and tomorrow there is a big festival called Mahashivrati
celebrating the Hindu God Shiva. Thousands of pilgrims are expected and
there will be a big ceremony tonight. So I've booked another boat ride at
sunset to take photos and watch the ceremony.

It was a Great spectacle with over 10 thousand watching and lots of boats. I lit a candle and
floated it on the Ganges for good Karma. Must do the lottery when I get
back!

Celebration to Shiva

About 8 I returned to the hotel for another curry and then bed. I hadn't
slept much in the last 48 hours, so was shattered. I’ve booked another
boat trip at sunrise 6.00 am with Raj, so will need some sleep.

I had my first dose of Delhi Belly during the night, I woke up with
stomach ache at 12 midnight, but it didn’t last too long, and I felt ok
again by the morning.

There was also a lot of noise throughout the night as thousands of
pilgrims were arriving for the Shiva festival the next day. They were filing
past the hotel along the path that runs along the banks of the Ganges.
Some were chanting and singing, they all seemed in good spirits.

My alarm went off at 6.00 am, I dressed and was met by the boatman at
the steps of the Ganges. We set off at 6.30 and by 6.45 the sun began to
rise, it was chilly and very peaceful, a lovely time of the day, and I took some
photos.

Dawn Boat trip, River Ganges

Sunrise, River Ganges

After the ride I decided to go for a walk through the city.
It turned out to be not a good experience.....there were tens of thousands
of people all queuing with a pot of holy water and some flowers as
offerings to Shiva, I don’t know where the queue began or ended, but it
was the biggest queue you can imagine. I was the only white face I saw
and there was a high military and police presence, and they were armed
to the hilt. It felt like everyone was staring at me. I had been told there was
some local tension between the various groups there.
I walked for over an hour and still the queue continued, I turned back and
made my way back to my hotel.

Varanasi pilgrims

For the first time I felt uneasy, but got back to the calm of the hotel.

I had a shower and breakfast (Omelettes and tea) and went out for
another stroll along the Ghats of the Ganges. The atmosphere was a lot
better there and all was good again.

I got back to the hotel for 13.00 for my Sitar lesson at the Baba school of
music. The teacher was an old guy called Ravi, who didn’t look a day
under 80. He taught me how to sit and hold the Sitar...I wish I had
learnt yoga before as it was an uncomfortable position. He showed me
how to play some chords whilst he sang along to my tune!

Sitar lesson, Baba school of Music, Varanasi

Not being able to play an instrument I found it a bit tricky! The string
has now caused a blister on my finger! I think at one time he held his
head in his hands in frustration!

I got the hang of it eventually and we shared some samosas and tried to
talk to each other. He then played the Sitar himself and was fantastic.
This all cost 200 Rupees (£2.50)

After the lesson I walked some more through the Ghats and to the
Burning Ghats (cremations). Behind this, there was a government
Bhang shop were you could buy Bhang sweets, drinks and smokes
(Bhang is made from Cannabis). Everyone looked stoned but happy!!!

Bhang!

I returned to the hotel at 15.45 for a welcome lunch of Veg Pakora and a
cold beer.
Varanasi is a strange but beautiful place; very spiritual and a place I
will never forget. A must for anyone who likes to people watch and take
interesting photos.

River Ganges

It was good to Skype home last night, although the Wi-Fi kept cutting
out, and today it is off completely. I didn't bother eating last night and
stayed in my room to read, and began to pack my back pack and
collect my laundry from reception. They washed and dried my clothes
for less than £1.

I had a decent night’s sleep, and woke at 06.15, in time to see the
sunrise for the last time from the terrace.

I had breakfast - omelet, toast, juice and tea. (120 rupees) showered and
finished off the packing. I had to be out of the room by 10.00. I paid for
my room - 2 nights 1200 rupees about £12. The hotel was brilliant and a
bargain.

I had 6 hours free until I needed to make my way to the train station, so
I went for a walk through the markets and alleyways, and then to the
main streets. I found an ATM and withdrew some more cash.

The Indian roads are a nightmare to cross. The cars, scooters, auto
rickshaws, cycle rickshaws come at you from all directions. There is no
highway code here. The best way is to just go for it confidently or go for
safety in numbers.

I had my first taste of street food; I had 2 veg Samosas which I saw
cooked in front of me. They were delicious and cost less than 15p.
I also bought a nice patterned table cloth from the market.
I returned to the Ganges and walked for 2 miles in a direction I hadn't
been before, it was a lot quieter at these Ghats.

Holy Man, Ganges

Ghats, River Ganges

During my wander, I saw a group of monkeys, who would sit and watch you suspiciously,
and a few bright green Parrots were flying around.

I returned to the hotel to have a light lunch and chat with 2 guys from
Switzerland who were also back packing, and they gave me the
rundown on Agra, my next destination. It's great to swap stories and tips with fellow
travellers.

At 4pm I left the hotel and made my way to the main road where I could
catch a TukTuk back to the station. Another crazy trip on the TukTuk,
the driving is unreal, they all drive whatever side of the road they
choose, but miraculously they don't collide. Must be the good Karma.
I made it to the station in one piece.

Namaste!

Varanasi station was packed, but I was relieved when I found the
information board.

Travellers to Agra

I waited for my train - the Maradhar express, which came on time
(18.15). Found my carriage and berth. I am sharing with 3 French men,
so at least I can practice my Francais!

I'm not going to bother with the food on the train, so will settle for cups
of tea, water and a small bag of Leys crisps for dinner tonight. Would love a
nice roast dinner!

Travellers, Agra

Train is due to arrive at Agra Fort train station at 05.55. Hope I wake
up in time.

Agra

(My Taj Mahal Blog can be found here)

The train arrived in Agra about 30 minutes late, but I surprisingly slept
quite well, so the 13 hour journey went quickly.

I got off the train at Agra Fort railway station and headed past the
masses of rickshaw wallahs that were after business. I headed towards the
signs for the Taj mahal, as I knew my hotel was close to it.
I eventually gave in to a cycle rickshaw rider who offered to take me to
the hotel for 20 rupees (25p). The poor man had his work cut out taking
me and my heavy bags the 2 km journey.

When I arrived at 07.30 the hotel could not check me in until 10.00, so I
left my big backpack at the hotel and headed to the area around the taj
for breakfast. The area was not nice, rubbish everywhere with dogs and
monkeys scavenging for food.

Taj Ganj, Agra

I found a cafe and ordered a breakfast at the door and made my way to
the rooftop. The cafe was in a terrible state. It looked like it hadn't been
cleaned for years and last night’s rubbish was all over the place. It would have been
condemned by the Environmental Health brigade back home. The
food came, but I could not eat it, I paid the 50 rupees and left.
I carried on walking to the East Gate of the Taj and headed towards the
river.

This area was a lot cleaner and well kept. I met an Indian cycle
rickshaw rider called Rajou, we chatted and he told me I could take a
boat across the river for photos (50RPS), I'm glad I did, the view was stunning.

Taj Mahal, Agra

Rajou offered to pick me up from my hotel after I had showered and
sorted myself out, for a city tour for 300 rupees, I agreed and he
dropped me off at the hotel for free. I'm staying at Hotel Sidhatha, and it's only
a 2 minute walk from the West Gate of the Taj Mahal. (1600 RPS)

I had my breakfast and waited for my room to be cleaned. The room
looked ok and clean. The shower was only cold though!

I called home from the international phone call office next door and then
got picked up by Rajou at 13.00. The tour was good and we visited Agra
fort which was very impressive, the Baby Taj and then the gardens on
the opposite bank of the river to the Taj.

Taj Mahal

This is the best place to take photos of the Taj Mahal at sunset. I bought us a couple of drinks and we walked the gardens chatting about our customs and backgrounds. Rajou was a Muslim, who married a girl from Bangladesh. He works long hours to bring in some much needed Rupees to support his family.

The Taj looked stunning, every bit as beautiful as you could imagine.

During the tour, the rickshaw had a puncture. The Rickshaw repair
stall was next to a school. The kids were pleased to see me and were
posing for photos and smiling and waving. They loved me showing the
photo I had taken of them.

School children, Agra

Rajou dropped me off at the hotel at 8pm. After the 7 hour trip I gave
him an extra 200 rupees for the good tour. He showed me a good
restaurant to go to (M,G. Royal Cafe), which I walked to after a quick
cold shower. I Had chicken biryani and naan. Very tasty. On my walk
back I heard a voice. It was Rajou shouting my name! He was being
taken home by another rider as he had spent the extra money I had
given him on Indian whiskey and was drunk! He got me to get in the
rickshaw and dropped me off at my hotel, on his way home.

Me and Rajou

A tiring day, but well worth it. The Taj Mahal at sunset was brilliant
and Rajou was a star!

Up early tomorrow at 6,00AM, to get into the grounds of the Taj for sunrise.

I woke up before my alarm at 05.50 to get showered and ready for my
full visit to the taj mahal. I left the hotel at 06.10 to get to the West gate
ticket office (only 100 meters from hotel). There were already a lot of
people queuing there. A guide approached me and said he could get a
ticket quicker for me for 200 rupees I decided to pay the extra (the taj
mahal ticket costs 750 rupees). Sure enough, it got me to near to the
front of the queue at the west gate.

I was one of the first in, and went through to see the Taj Mahal.

Taj Mahal

The sun was still waiting to rise so there was a nice blue tinge to the Taj
Mahal walls and some early morning mist. It looked unbelievable. The
grounds and garden are immaculate and everything is in symmetry.

Taj Mahal at Sunrise

As the sun began to rise the colours changed to white, then pink and
then gold.
It was a brilliant site and I took loads of photos from all different sides.

As the crowds came in it was funny watching people do all different and

strange poses in front of the Taj.

I got my pose in on the seat where Princess Diana sat, taken by an
Indian guide for 20 rupees.

It really deserves its status as one of The Severn wonders of the world.
A beautiful building. I stayed there for 2 hours taking loads of photos
and walked the gardens. I left at 09.00 to have breakfast at the hotel,
shower and sort out the photos I had taken.

I left at 11.00 and went looking to buy an Indian SIM card for my
phone. My sandals had broken so I had them repaired at the roadside
by a street Hawker for 30 rupees.

I bought a SIM card which made my calls back to the UK a lot cheaper.
There wasn't much else to do, I toiled with visiting Fatehpur Sikri, a nearby
village, but I needed to relax. I decided to indulge myself by going to a top
end hotel to use their swimming pool and sun bathe for the rest of the day.
My first real relaxation since I got to India. It was at Hotel Amar (Fatehabad Road)
a short tuk tuk ride away. It cost me 400 rupees to get in, but that included a
sunbed, towel and the service of loads of Indian waiters. I spent the rest of the day there
chilling and had a few cold beers around the pool. I also had a great
mixed meat Tandoori platter. Delicious. Today I lived the life of a
Maharajah. Tomorrow I'm up early AGAIN to catch the 6.15 train to
Jaipur.

Traveller to Jaipur

A full version of my Taj Mahal experience with more photos can be found by clicking here

Another early start, my alarm woke me and I showered and left
the hotel to catch my tuk tuk at 05.30. The tuk tuk got me to the station
15 minutes later ready to catch my train which was due to depart at
06.15. I waited and waited and the information board showed the train
was delayed. It eventually turned up 1 hour 45 minutes late. I was tired
and hungry, as I had skipped dinner last night to go to bed early. I was
hoping for a few snacks on the train...No such luck, not even
Chai (tea). I then saw a few of the Indian travelers drinking chai and
eating snacks; they jump off the train at the stations, and get their food
from there. I will know next time. The train finally arrived 2 hours late at 13.15.

Jaipur

I made my way off the train to be greeted by the usual masses of
taxi/rickshaw drivers. I felt tired so couldn't be bothered to walk any
further and took a taxi to my hotel for 150 rupees. The taxi was an old
Ambassador driven by Ali Baba, a nice guy who sold me a tour of Jaipur
to see the main sites outside the city.

Ali Baba, Taxi drive, Jaipur

First call was to a restaurant callled Rainbow where we had mutton
curry for lunch, I hadn't eaten for 22 hours and was starving, and it was
excellent food. Ali Baba was good company.

Jaipur seems a bit more laid back than the other cities I had visited and
looks cleaner (by Indian standards) and it was a pity I'm only here for
the 1 night.

We went to amber fort (amazing), a stunning fort high up in hills, and a
sunken palace in a lake, a tomb complex and finally the monkey
temple.

The monkey temple is a temple high up in the mountain overlooking
Jaipur, and has 2000 monkeys on the path up to it. I was shown up there by a 12 year
old lad called Rajiv.

Feeding the Monkeys, Jaipur

He was friendly and he took a few photos of me feeding the monkeys
and we looked at the views

I showed him my mobile phone and he had a few games of Angry Birds
on it!

After the tour I was taken to a couple of wholesale places that sold
jewellery and silks. The usual end to a tour it seems. I stood firm and only
bought what I wanted for a good price.

I got back to my hotel, called Suryaa Villa (1900 RPS), and had mixed veg curry,
again it was delicious. The hotel is fantastic and the room is nice and clean, and
there is a small swimming pool with nice gardens. Unfortunateley I'm only
here for 1 night, although I have a full day ahead in Jaipur tomorrow before my
train to Jodhpur at midnight. I felt exhausted , so lie-in tomorrow, for sure.

I had a comfy night in my hotel, the best hotel so far, good clean rooms
with a warm shower. There was a big wedding party going on in the
hotel next door with fireworks and dancing. I was invited to go in and I
took a few photos and chatted to the kids. They all love to have their
photo taken and talk about cricket. They know all the players and
scores. A few of the men called me Ian botham!

I Got up at 08.30 and had the breakfast which was included- scrambled
egg, toast, juice and chai.

I packed my backpack and was able to leave it at reception. My train
isn't until 23.45 so I still have a full day in Jaipur. I'm now looking a bit more
like a traveller with a bit of a beard and a tan, and I've perfected that
knackered look!

I took a cycle rickshaw inside the Pink City walls for 30 rupees. I spent the
next 5 hours walking through the streets, looking at the sites. The most
impressive is a building called Hawa Mahal, a 5 story pink building
where the women used to watch the streets below without being seen.
I was able to go inside and up to the top for 50 rupees; it gave you a
great view of the city.

Hawa Mahal, Jaipur

I went to some different temples and the people were all singing and clapping, it
was great for people watching. There are many bazaars and shops
selling everything you could ever need. Wish I could buy loads, but I
don't have the room!

I tried a bit of street food, called Kachori. Its Like a spicy potato patty. Delicious
and only 10 rupees.
Walked a few miles and decided to find a nice place to have a bit of
lunch.

I found a place I'd read about called Laxi Mishthan khandar, it's billed
as the oldest and best veg restaurant in Jaipur.
I had samosa, Kachori and a banana lassi (145 RPS) The best veg food I have
eaten and cheap too. If all veggie food tasted this good I could turn
veggie quite easily.

Jaipur wedding procession

I walked the 2km back to the hotel and sat in the sun, drinking cold
beer for a bit. I reckon I must have walked over 5 miles this morning so
I think I’ve earned it!

I finished off my time in Jaipur with a night out at the cinema at a
famous cinema called Raj Mandir in Jaipur; I queued to get my ticket for
the film which started at 6.30. No one else seemed to understand the
concept of queuing, so I had to have a word! The ticket cost 70 rupees.
The lobby of the cinema was magnificent, quite luxurious.
The film was a Bollywood comedy/romance called Tere Naal love ho
Gaya! Although in Hindi it was quite easy to follow the plot; there were
the typical Indian song/dance routines in it. The audience all seemed to
join in, and clapped and cheered, and some were in hysterics.

Raj Mandir cinema, Jaipur

I went back to my hotel to collect my backpack and head to the station.
The train was actually only 5 minutes late and I boarded at 23.50. The
train already had people on, as it started in Delhi. I founded my berth,
everyone else was already asleep, and it was dark. I set my alarm for
04.25, as my train was due to arrive in Jodhpur at 04.45. I managed to
get a bit of sleep, but was awoken by some shouting in the berth
compartment next to mine. They had caught a thief and where slapping
him and stamping on his bare feet. The guard/conductor came and
joined in. Guess he deserved it. It made me a bit more conscious of my
bags anyway.

Jodhpur

The train arrived on time in Jodhpur and I got a tuk tuk in the
darkness to my hotel (Jee Ri Havelli, 2000RPS) They let me check
in early at 05.00 and I went straight to sleep.

I woke at 07.45, and the sun was up. I had a private balcony with a
view of the fort on the hillside, only 0.5km away. It was a stunning
view……………

Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur

I had another great day. Jodhpur is called the blue city, as funnily enough, most of the
buildings are painted blue!

I first of all climbed up to the magnificent fort, which overlooks the city.

I met a Japanese guy called shoo and we chatted and walked up together.
The fort is very impressive and had a great view of the city.

Blue city, Jodhpur

In India instead of crows flying overhead, like in England, there are huge birds of prey
hovering and gliding, sometimes they land by you- a great site.
I then Skyped Liz when I got back and had some lunch- paneer pakora
on the roof terrace and also Skype mum and dad. It was good to speak to
family back home.

I chatted to the Indian man who owned the hotel, and he sorted out a
cheap tour of the other sites For 200 rupees. The hotel is in an excellent location and
the room was comfortable and clean. A nice family run hotel.

The 2 hour tour took me to palaces; the first was lovely, with nice gardens and was full of
paintings and photos of the Indian royalty. The second was impressive,
but was really just a nice hotel. A good value tour though.

Clock Tower, Jodhpur

Jodhpur is a lot more laid back than the other places I've visited, not too
much hassle from the street markets and touts. Some nice restaurants
and hotels.

Musician, Jodhpur

I Had my evening meal at a beautiful hotel/restaurant called Pal Haveli
a short walk from my hotel.The food was delicious- Chicken Labhabdor and
Onion Cumin rice and the roof top restaurant had a brilliant view of the fort.

I returned to my hotel and watched the sunset and chilled out for a bit.
Tomorrow I’m off to Jaisalmer for 2 nights.

I left the hotel at 04.10 for my tuk tuk to jodhpur railway station, the
tuk tuk I had booked did not turn up, so I had to head in to the main square in the
darkness with my backpack on, looking for another tuk tuk . It was
quite Eerie as no one was about apart from the dogs and sleeping cows
and a few street people huddled round fires. I managed to find a tuk tuk
who took me to the station.

Travellers, Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer

My train was on time and I found my berth ok. There was an American
lad in my compartment, and a couple sleeping from the Far East, and a
mouse! I got to sleep ok and dozed in and out of sleep for most of the 6
hour journey. I even tried the Indian breakfast on the train, spicy veg
cutlet and bread, and it was ok. I spotted the fort of Jaisalmer rising out
of the desert, like a giant sandcastle, and it was confirmed when I saw
the sign for Jaisalmer at the station. The train was actually 45 minutes
early for a change.

I found a taxi, which was a land rover jeep, which took me to the hotel, and
I was greeted warmly by the manager. They took my bags from me and
took them to my room. It’s a lovely hotel, called KB Lodge (2000RPS a night)
- the best yet.

Jaisalmer

With Indian decor in the room, a nice wooden bed and a warm, clean
shower.

KB Lodge, Jaisalmer

The room had a view of a magnificent 200 year old Havelli building called
Patwon-Ki-Haveli, and the roof terrace has lots of comfy cushioned
seats with a view of the fort.

I'm glad I've got 2 nights here and hopefully will get chance to relax.
I showered and had a drink on the rooftop, before heading to the fort.
The fort is a crumbling ancient building with lots of narrow alleyways
with temples, bazaars and cows. The shops and bazaars sell nice
textiles and Indian crafts - wish I had room to buy some! The people
here hassle you less and are laid back. One seller said “come inside my
shop, and let me rip you off" with a grin on his face! Maybe because
there is a government Bhang shop just outside, selling marijuana cakes,
cookies and lassi drinks!

I bumped into shoo the Japanese tourist I'd met in Jodhpur and we
swapped a few tips, and also saw the American who was on my train.
The weather is very hot and sunny, and I found a nice hotel restaurant
with a rooftop to have some Veg Pakora and a drink. I walked some
more and headed back to my hotel, stopping to go inside the haveli
opposite. It was cool and had bats that where roosting inside, it had a
great view from the top.

Jain Temple, Jaisalmer

I've arranged with the hotel to go on a desert safari tomorrow afternoon
into the evening at sunset followed by a meal and music, should be
good. I'm going to eat at my hotel and no early wake up so SLEEP!

Namaste!

I had a lovely meal last night at my hotel - Maharaja Thali - a selection of
Indian veg dishes, rice, chapati, salad, lassi, and a sweet , so tasty (450RPS)
I will ask for the recipes. Went back to my room full and tired. I managed to
get about 8 hours sleep in my comfy bed. The power is off now so I will
have to wait for a hot shower, and took breakfast on the roof terrace in the sun,
watching the cows, dogs and people below. (No monkeys or hawks so far
in Jaisalmer). There’s a Belgian couple, a Japanese traveller called Yuki and an
American in the hotel.

I think I will just relax and go for a stroll around the streets and
Bazzars this morning, my desert safari is at 2.00 pm.
I went to the fort and visited a Jain temple, the work inside was
amazing, with detailed carvings from stone. It took 30 years to build.

The Jain religion is an ancient religion that originated in India, they are very devoted.
They don't believe in killing anything so are vegetarian and are even
careful of treading on ants and flies!
The jeep arrived at 2pm for the safari. Firstly it took us to some ancient
temples in the area and an old abandoned village.

We arrived at a camp for the camel ride. The camels took us through
the dunes and desert, there was a few wild deer running around.

At sunset I took some nice photos as the sun went down. It was a nice
peaceful experience.

Sunset, Camel Safari

The camels took me back to camp for a campfire with music, dancing
and a meal, and of course they picked on me to join them in the dance!
The jeep took me back to hotel for 10.30pm.

It was a great day, relaxing and seeing a different side of India.

I Woke up at 7.00 am and took breakfast on the roof, watching the dogs
play amongst the cows below. I then packed my backpack and showered
and checked out. I could leave my bags in reception for the day. I visited
a wholesale textile shop and bought some souvenirs that will be posted
back for me.

I then went up to the Fort to wander a bit and had a drink.
My train to Delhi leaves this evening at 17.15 so I spent the rest of the
day in Jaisalmer. I really enjoyed my time here, thanks to the comfort
and hospitality of my hotel. The old town and laid back people make you
feel welcome and relaxed.

The train - the Jaisalmer to Delhi express takes 18 hours to get to
Delhi, over 900 Kms, so not particularly looking forward to it.

Train for the night. Jaisalmer-Delhi

My hotel is making a takeaway meal for me, to take on the train- Tomato sandwich,
Boiled Eggs and a banana.
I caught tuk tuk To Jaisalmer train station, and my train was already
there waiting. I found my berth ok, and made myself as comfy as I could
for the 18 hour journey, chaining my backpack to the seat.

I shared with an Indian family who offered me some of their food, but I
just had my packed lunch. We chatted and they thought I was a
student, and was in my 20's! Result. They ask you a lot of questions,
including how much you earn!

To put it bluntly I had to use the toilet on the train, the squat type, you
have to be careful not to lose items from your pockets!
Apart from that the journey was uneventful and I managed to get sleep
in several spells, the mouse was still scurrying about, and the journey
was quite pleasant.

Delhi

Eventually I arrived at Sari rohilla old station at 11.15, and got a taxi back to my
original hotel in Delhi - Hotel Hari Piorko.

The room wasn't ready so I had a short wait. I was tired and in need of
a shower/food/rest.

New Delhi

That was the plan at least, but after my shower, I felt fresher and went
out for a wander. Had a beer in an Indian pub called My Bar, it was a
dark and dingy place playing loud Indian disco. Cheap beer though.
Then caught a cycle rickshaw to old Delhi, to an area called Chandi
chowk. There is supposed to be a spice market there but I couldn't find
it. A Map is a waste of time in India, there are no street names and it is
very difficult to work out where you are. Delhi is so different to the
other places I have been to, a lot busier, noisier and spread out, but still
all part of the Indian experience.

I’m getting a lot less hassle than last time I was here; maybe because I
have a tan and a beard, I look more experienced.

I didn't have any joy in finding the spice market, so headed back to the
hotel. Feeling the effects of my 2 weeks nonstop traveling and retired to
the roof terrace to relax in the sun. I've handed in more laundry and I
have an early start tomorrow - 4.00 am for my 2 trains to Shimla, hope I
wake up!

It's now 7.00 pm in Delhi and I'm at the Metropolis hotel in Delhi pahra
ganj, near to my hotel. I've ordered Tandoori chicken and naan, feeling
extremely tired so won't be out long, I'm up at 04.00 for my train to
Kalka, which is the connection for Shimla. The restaurant is very
cosmopolitan with lots of different voices and colours, a bit of a
traveler’s hub, my favorite in Delhi. And they have a weak Wi-Fi!
The food was excellent, my last proper food until I reach Shimla in 24
hours’ time. I will stock up on Lays crisps at the station.

The alarm woke me up at 03.45am and I got ready and left the hotel,
luckily a tuk tuk was passing as I went outside, so I hailed it down. It
was quite a way to the station, but only cost 150 rupees.

I waited for my train. There were a few others waiting and some dogs.
One of the dogs walked with a limp, and had a bad open wound on his
back leg, but bless him, he wagged his tail when he saw people. I felt
sorry for him, but there wasn't anything I could do for him.

The train came on time. The Himalayan queen to Shimla via Kalka. My
carriage is AC chair class, and has only seats, laid out like a plane. I got
to sleep ok, in my seat, but woke at 06.50 for a beautiful sunrise over
the misty fields that we were passing.

At 7.30am we pulled into a station - Panipat junction. The train became
a hive of activity, as various sellers boarded to offer chai (tea), breakfast
of omelet with bread, water and crisps. I had the lot - take it while you
can!

The train journey was pleasant and comfortable, and you could see the
mountains and hills appear in the landscape. The train arrived at
Kalka 30 mins late, but still in plenty of time for the transfer to the
next train.

Shimla

Toy Train, Kalka-Shimla

The train from Kalka to Shimla is known as the toy train, it is an old
narrow gauge railway which winds the 100 odd miles up into the
foothills of the Himalayas. It takes 5-6 hours to complete this journey,
traveling slowly over bridges and through many tunnels. The train was
there waiting and I found my seat ok. There are open windows and
doors, so am hoping to get some good views of the journey.

I had a nice meal on the train of thali, a mix of veg curry, tasty.
I was joined by an English couple in their 60's that have been traveling
since November, going by train from London to Iran! - Now that's a journey!

The train pulled away and we were soon climbing the hills. The doors
were open, so I spent most of the journey sitting on the train floor, with
my legs dangling out, over the side. It was brilliant; the scenery was
amazing as we went higher, through tunnels and over bridges. You
could see monkeys in the trees, it was stunning. The journey took 5
hours, stopping at a few stations for refreshments. I phoned the hotel to
see if there was a pickup from the station, and there was - Great!!
We arrived at Shimla station and I was met by a man from the hotel,
we started walking, I thought to his car, but we carried on and on. We
walked the mile and a half to my hotel – Hotel Dreamland It was a
Steep uphill walk all the way! I got there shattered, what a work out! I
checked in. My room was not that good, very dated and very basic, but
the view from my door was breathtaking.

The view looked out for miles over the mountains. I walked back down
to the mall area at sunset, looking for a restaurant. I found a chinese restaurant
called Alfa, on the Mall and had a good set meal, tea and soda for £2!

Feeling full I walked up the hill again to the hotel and bed at 7.45 pm!
I got up this morning at 6.00 am, my room was freezing all night, and
the duvet is filthy. I slept in my clothes. I put on my thermals, hat and
gloves to climb to the top of Shimla, to a temple for sunrise. The Jakhu Temple at
the top, is the highest point in Shimla. There were monkeys everywhere and they
weren't friendly, they try to attack you. I avoided eye contact with them.
When I reached the top the view was fantastic as the sun rose over the mountains.

I took a few photos and recovered from the exhausting climb. There is a
giant red statue of Hanuman, the Monkey God up there looking over the mountains.

Jakhu Temple, Shimla

I walked back down to the hotel, showered and changed and went out again, it was
still very cold out, and so I kept my thermals on! I went to the Indian
Coffee House, an old colonial building, with staff dressed in white and
fancy hats on. Had a nice filling breakfast for 120 rupees, and went out
to join the people wandering up and down.

Indian Coffe house, Shimla

Shimla is very different to the other places I had been to; it's like a
middle class Indian holiday resort, with British colonial influence.

Shimla

There are signs saying no rubbish, no spitting (a male Indian ritual; they
cough up from the back of their throats as noisy as they can in
India), no smoking and no plastic bags. The place is spotless and
immaculate. No rickshaws, even using the horn is not allowed! The
police have different smart uniforms with fancy hats, and they actually
do something.

There is a mall where people just wander up and down, having ice
creams and chatting, an old Christian church, a few temples,
government buildings and lots of shops and bazaars. There is also a lot
of school children in smart uniform, as I think there are a few public
schools here in Shimla.

Christ Church, Shimla

There doesn't seem a great deal else to do, so I spent most of the
morning walking, then sitting and watching the people, and the Hawks circling
in the blue skies above. I found a place to have a beer at lunchtime, had a few,
sitting in the sun and went back to my hotel to sleep. - it’s all caught up on me now,
I've done so much, walked and got up early. I feel shattered!

Sunset, The Mall, Shimla

I’ve just woke up at 6pm to watch the Liverpool v Arsenal game on
TV in my room (which is now freezing again!). I spent the rest of the
night in bed, as it was too cold to get out of it.

I slept on and off all night, and got up and showered by 8.30. I checked
out, and decided to go on a tour with a Kashmir guide called Ashraf
from the hotel.

We drove 50 km for 2 hours along winding mountainside roads, the
views down were great, as we descended down from 2500 meters to
500 meters.

We ended up in a valley town called Tattapani, where we went for a
trek to a cave that was devoted to Shiva, the climb was up and down
and it was a killer!

Afterwards we took dinner at a riverside restaurant
next to the river Sutlej which flows from the mountains in Tibet. The
water was freezing, but next to the river, hot springs were rising to
form hot pools of sulphur water. I was able to bathe in them, which was
nice and relaxing.

We had to leave after a couple of hours as I had to be back in Shimla for
my train to Kalka. We drove back, and on the way stopped off for a
horse ride through the Forrest's. It was a good day, and I saw some
lovely scenery and again a different side to India.

Ashraf dropped me off at Shimla station, with plenty of time. My train the
Shivalex Deluxe was there waiting. This train which is another toy
train, is there equivalent to the orient express, with comfy soft armchair
seats. We were served tea and biscuits, given a bottle of water, and
I ordered a veg curry meal- all inclusive of the ticket. I sat with three
Indian engineers, in their fifties, who asked the usual inquisitive
questions, and they took my photo! They talked about whiskey and
where friendly. The one was chewing some tobacco which made his
mouth and lips red. We started off as the sun began to set, and was nice
to watch, listening to some Indian music they were playing from their
phone.

Shimla Station

2 hours after we left Shimla, our food was delivered on board at Bogra
station. The food came hot and was bean Dahl, mix curry, rice, 2
chapattis, and a sweet. It was delicious and very welcome. As we
finished the food, it was quite bizarre to see the men just throw their
rubbish out of the window! Obviously an Indian practice, but was a
shame really.

We arrived back at Kalka at 22.20 in plenty of time for my train to
Delhi at 23.55. I was one of the first on, so was able to sort my berth out
before others arrived, and use the phone charger.
The train is due in at Delhi at 06.30, for my last day in India.

Delhi

The train arrived on time at Old Delhi railway station, and I took an
Auto Rickshaw back to my home in Delhi. I arrived back at Hotel Hari
Piorko (cost 1500 Rupees a night), and waited a while before I could
check-in for the last time.

I was given another comfortable room, in the hotel. This hotel is a great
base for this sort of trip. It is in the backpacker area of New Delhi, on
the main Bazaar. There are plenty of shops, restaurants and hundreds
of Rickshaws to take you wherever you need to get to. I was going to
make sure I had a nice relaxing last day in India.

I showered and changed, and then went for a walk up and down the
main Bazaar, buying a few last minute souvenirs. The weather was also
getting hotter and hotter everyday so I topped up my tan on the roof top
of the hotel.

I arranged for a “travellers Massage” with the hotel at 16.30 which was
a nice treat for my aching arms, back and legs. 800 rupees for 1 hour.

I went out for my final evening, back to Hotel Metropolis for Ghost
Mutton Rogan, Naan and poppadum’s. I met an interesting German
man there, who was a professional travel photographer. He was in
Delhi for 5 days before going on to Nepal. He showed me some of his
work and he has a website – www.Klaus-polkowski.de , he makes a very
good living out of traveling the world taking picture, very inspiring
work and conversation.

Pahar Ganj, New Delhi

I went back to bed full and tired ready for my return flight to
Birmingham in the morning.

I’ve had a fantastic time in India; it has opened my eyes to a very
different way of life. Some of the people I have met in India lead a very
humble life, but mostly it is accompanied with a wide smile.
I’ve met some great people and made some good
friends. The sites have been amazing. I will definately be back!
Now, where to next time?

Next Trip Here!!

Itinerary

Day 1 Fly to Delhi
Day 2 Arrive Delhi ...Stay Hotel Hari Piorko, New Delhi
Day 3 Tour Delhi.... Depart Delhi @ 18.45 Shiv Ganga Express train to Varanasi
Day 4 Arrive Varanasi @ 07.30 ...Stay Ganpati Guest House
Day 5 Tour Varanasi....Mahashivrati festival, Ganges Sunrise Boat trip
Day 6 Tour Varanasi ....Depart Varanasi @ 17.20 Marudhar Express to Agra
Day 7 Arrive Agra Fort 05.55...Stay Hotel Sheela, Agra
Day 8 Taj Mahal Sunrise and Fatepur Sikri
Day 9 Depart Agra @ 06.15, Marudhar Express to Jaipur....Stay surrya villa, Jaipur
Day 10 Tour Jaipur....Amber Fort, Hawa Mahal...Depart Jaipur @ 23.57 Jaisalmer Express to Jodhpur
Day 11 Arrive Jodhpur @ 05.55..Tour Jodhpur....Stay jee ri haveli. Jodhpur
Day 12 Depart Jodhpur @ 06.10 Delhi-Jaisalmer Express, arrive Jaisalmer @ 11.45 stay KB Lodge
Day 13 Tour Jaisalmer, Desert Visit, Golden Fort.
Day 14 Tour Jaisalmer, Depart Jaisalmer @ 16.30 Jaisalmer-Delhi Express
Day 15 Arrive Delhi @ 11.05, Stay Hari Piorko, New Delhi
Day 16 Depart Delhi @ 05.40 to Shimla Via Kalka, Himilayan Queen, arrive Shimla 17.20, City View.
Day 17 Stay Dreamland Hotel, Tour Shimla (Himilayan Mountains)
Day 18 Tour Shimla, Depart Shimla @ 17.40 to Delhi via Kalka Shivalik Deluxe Train
Day 19 Arrive Delhi @ 06.15, stay Hari Piorko
Day 20 Depart Delhi to Home

Rail Pass

Got my rail pass sorted today. Firstly I checked the trains I needed to catch to fit in with my itinerary.

Great web site from India rail, with all the info that you need. Simply enter your starting station and your destination station. It will then display a timetable for that journey and the train numbers.

http://indiarailinfo.com/train/timetable/1553/664/334

Next step, if you require a rail pass, is to contact their UK agent, SD Enterprises.

http://www.indiarail.co.uk/

Another great website to use. After contacting SD Enterprises, and filling in their booking form, complete with the trains that you require, they will send you your rail pass by post. Cost for 21 day rail pass is £137 (more expensive than booking individual train journeys independently, but in my opinion far simpler and hassle free).

21 Day Rail Pass

Attached Train Reservations

Rail Pass

Some other brilliant web sites with useful information:-

http://www.indiamike.com/

http://www.seat61.com/India.htm

Distance covered - 3979 Kms

Stage 1 New Delhi to Varanasi - Shiv Ganga Express

Stage 2 Varanasi to Agra - Marudhar Express
Stage 3 Agra to Jaipur - Marudhar Express
Stage 4 Jaipur to Jodhpur - Delhi Jaisalmer Express
Stage 5 Jodhpur to Jaisalmer - Delhi Jaisalmer Express
Stage 6 Jaisalmer to Delhi - Delhi Jaisalmer Express
Stage 7 Delhi to Shimla (via Kalka) - Himilayan Queen
Stage 8 Shimla to Delhi (via Kalka) - Shivalik Express/Kalka Howrah Mail

Many more of my photos from India on my Flickr site

http://www.flickr.com/photos/chicovilla/sets/72157629547226967/

My other blogs...........

Taj mahal Blog

Cappadocia Blog here

Euro-Rail Blog is available here

Istanbul Blog Here

Baltic Blog Here

Thailand Here

Hong Kong Here

Croatia Here

Nimes Here

#microadventure Here

London Here