Bonsai Art

Selecting the Right Bonsai Pot for your Tree

2012-03-12T16:45:00.000-07:00

Bonsai trees are becoming more popular these days. Bonsai is a Japanese word which means a plant in a tray. To keep Bonsai tree, lots of work and dedication is needed as these trees must be trimmed and cared continuously. To give miniaturization effect to bonsai tree, it is essential to choose the right type of pot. Selecting the right bonsai pot for bonsai tree is not easy. It is an art in itself. Bonsai pots are available in different shapes and sizes so it very important to get the right size, shape and color of pot for bonsai tree. To know how to select the right bonsai pot for your bonsai tree read the following article.

For your Bonsai tree you must buy pot which is designed specially for it. Bonsai pots have pre-designed holes like drainage and training wires. Drainage holes help to prevent water stocking inside the pot while other holes are for the passage of training wire. To choose right pot, there are many things that you should consider such as length, shape, color, size, width, height, etc. Right bonsai pot brings out the total beauty of bonsai tree.

Tips To Select the Right Bonsai Pot:

Size
You must select the size of your bonsai pot wisely as size matters. If the pot doesn’t support the weight of the tree then it will be wastage of time and money. Always buy the bonsai pot that is enough big and strong to hold the tree. Plant will have many difficulties to grow if the pot is very small. The tree will also look unbalanced if the pot is small. Too large bonsai pot makes the tree to look small and insignificant.

Shape
The shape of the pot also affects the growth of the tree so select the shape wisely. Bonsai pots are available in many shapes such as rectangle, round, square, oval, shallow trays, freehand shapes and more. While purchasing pots you must consider whether your bonsai tree is gentle and flowing/ thick and heavy, etc. Soft bonsai tree looks good in a gentle curvy, glazed bonsai pot while a black pine with a thick, strong trunk looks good in square or rectangle bonsai pot that have absolute minimum of decorations/fancy feet.

Length, Width and Height
Along with shape you should also consider length, width and height of the pot. The length, width and height can also affect the growth. Select the pot with enough depth to support the roots of the tree. Width of the pot must be as wide as the length of the stems/branches of the tree while the height of the pot must be of similar measurement to the overall width of the trunk of bonsai tree. You should select deeper pot if the trunk of the tree is wider.

Color
Bonsai pots are available in different colors but you must select the color that complements the look of the tree. If you want understated beauty then choose solid color pots and if you want your garden to be more eye-catching then select printed or polychromatic designs. Flowering bonsai trees look good in light colored pots and pine trees that have dark green needles look good in deep brown and red colored pot. Never buy highly glazed pots as they distract our attention from the tree. If you are not sure about the color of the pot then buy the pot that matches the color of the tree trunk.

Material
Different materials bonsai pots such as porcelain, terra cotta, mica, wood, stoneware, and plastic are available in the market. Select heavy duty plastic pots if you want durable pots and if you want more authentic look choose wooden pots. Clay pots are great for the tree but they are easily breakable. When the tree is in initial growing stage, mica pot is preferred by most of the people as they are lightweight and durable.

Airflow and Interior
Select the bonsai pots that have feet so that the air can flow freely around the base of the pot. The pot must be unglazed from inside as it will keep the tree stable in the pot. Unglazed pot from inside are very important if the roots have grown sufficiently.

What and when do I feed my bonsai

2012-03-09T12:31:00.000-08:00

To keep your bonsai in good shape and to maintain healthy growth requires regular feeding at the right time of year with the correct fertilizer. Fertilizer must be continually replenished due to a certain amount being washed out each time the plant is watered.

You can get many different types of fertilizers, in a variety of forms. The most common is pellet-form (such as 'Osmocote'). This is a slow-release fertilizer which will take care of feeding requirements for several weeks at a time and is probably the type of fertilizer most used by bonsai enthusiasts. Soluble powder and liquid feeds are also used for rapid effect over short-term periods. These are applied to the soil with a watering can and are used up relatively quickly.

To understand exactly how your bonsai should be fertilized, you must be able to understand the basic make-up of fertilizers. Most fertilizers contain three basic elements: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P) and Potassium (K).

Nitrogen is an essential ingredient for leaf and stem growth. Too much nitrogen however will make the tree produce long, stringy growth. Phosphorus encourages healthy root growth and helps the growth of new buds, whilst also protecting against disease and unfavorable winter conditions. Potassium (potash) encourages the formation of flowers and fruit, and is vital in the fight against disease.

As a general rule, feed your bonsai from early spring to late summer. Use a balanced fertilizer with a fairly low nitrogen content year round, and one with as little (or no) nitrogen as possible in autumn to aid the tree (so the tree can retain its energy) through the winter.

Most commercial fertilizers contain all three main nutrients plus some trace elements. One type of fertilizer usually only obtainable from bonsai nurseries has an NPK (nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium) ratio of 0:10:10. This is an autumn feed (containing no nitrogen) which will harden off the current season's growth in readiness for the winter.

.How often should I water my bonsai

2012-03-09T12:19:00.000-08:00

How frequently you water your bonsai depends on many things. A dry wind, excessive heat, or a combination of both, can quickly dry out the soil, so you must monitor moisture levels regularly. Generally if you keep your trees outside where rain can water them, you don't need to worry much in the winter except in times of hot weather or little rain. In the summer you should endeavour to water your plants several times a week, and daily in very hot periods - where you should move the trees into the shade. You may find it is a good idea to set up a drip sprinkler system - where the bonsai are watered every day in the summer and every three days in the winter. Alternatively, you can use a watering can with a fine rose attached to water the soil and roots. Using a general water sprayer to increase humidity is also a good idea if your climate experiences dry periods.

Bonsai Tools &Pot Care and Maintenance

2012-03-08T12:57:00.000-08:00

Tool & Pot Care and Maintenance

Tool Sharpening Oilstones – to sharpen your favourite tools, remember to use with care, else you could do more damage then good.

Turntables – essential to help with you wire, shaping carving and potting jobs. If you can find one with a brake to stop the head turning when you don’t want it to turn all the better.

Camellia Oil – not really a tool, but nevertheless a useful tool to have in one’s arsenal.

Bonsai Carving Tools

2012-03-08T12:53:00.000-08:00

Carving Tools

Shari and Si Diao Carving Tool - are used for creating and enhancing the quality of deadwood display on Bonsai.

Hand saw – for use in lots of little task. Look for a pull saw version if you can find one. Essential for when you are on those collecting field trips.

Grafting Knife – ideal for carving and also for propagation purposes.

Bonsai Re-potting Tools

2012-03-08T08:50:00.000-08:00

Re-potting Tools

Root Cutters – In shape almost like the Branch splitter, but the cutting lips are not as deep as those of a branch splitter, and the lips are positioned at a slight angle where as the Branch Splitters are positioned horizontally. Ideal for cutting the thicker tap roots and adventitious roots and for nipping out root stumps closer to the trunk.

Root Hooks – Single and Multi-pronged invaluable tool when re-potting. The single pronged hook is used to tease out individual and difficult roots, while the multi-pronged hook is used to untangle root balls.

Drainage Screens – Draining Sieves play two roles, one it prevents the lost of soil from the drainage holes and second it helps keeps insects and other pest out of the pot. Use a non-clogging variety of drainage screen.

Rakes – Like root hooks are used on smaller root balls, and to plane or rake the surface of the soil on a Bonsai pot to remove debris or to agitate the top soil if it has got compacted or to remove surface weeds.

Tweezers – have a multitude of task but are mainly used to remove weeds, unwanted buds.

Spatulas – Very important tool, make sure you get a strong heavy metal grade spatula, is used for many tasks around the potting shed, but I think the most important of them is to tease those stubborn little trees out off their pots when you need to re-pot them.

Sieves – To ensure that you use just the right size grit or growing medium for you bonsai.

Scoops – In valuable little helper, beats having to use your hand to fill the pot with, some of these handy scoops even come with an in built sieve.

Tamping Trowel - Used to tamp down soil when re-potting or after mixing in solid bonsai feed.

Coir Brush – The brush end is used to smooth down soil surfaces and give a finished look, or just brush-off dead leaves and debris of the surface. The handle end made be used to clean or rub off branches and trunks unsightly loose bark or lichen, or perhaps even the odd pest

Bonsai Shaping Tools

2012-03-08T08:45:00.000-08:00

Shaping Tools

Jin Pliers - Ideal for making Jin and Shari on Bonsai. It does this by nibbling or stripping away at the branched to be made into a Jin. This Tool however has many more uses, from wire tying and un-winding.

Bending Jacks – Helps to slowly and gradually bend those thick and stubborn branches.

Wire Cutters (YATTOKO) - This specially designed tool cuts wire close to bark with minimal damage to the bark. Use wire cutters to cut away wire from the branches as this minimises damage to the cambium and delicate leaf bud.

Branch Splitters - Used for splitting heavy Bonsai branches along the length of the branch, in two or more layers, making the branch more pliable and hence easier to reposition. It is also and an invaluable tool for deadwood creation and can be used to eke out large bits of wood, which is pulled out with care can leave a highly desirable natural tear look.

Bonsai Branch & Leaf Pruning

2012-03-08T08:41:00.000-08:00

Branch & Leaf Pruning

Bud & Fine Twig Shears (Koeda Kiri Hasami) - These long reach scissors are designed for pruning delicate branches, twigs and buds. Their long slender handles are ideal for those difficult to reach places.

General Purpose Shears (Ashinaga Basami ) – These comfortable shears are for your every day use, for pruning fine to medium branches and roots. Do not walk into your Bonsai Garden without them. The large handles allow you to use all your palm and fingers to exert maximum pressure.

Branch & Root Shears (Hasami)- This heavy duty tool allows you to prune your Bonsai’s thicker Roots and Branches. Its broad blade allows you traverse the fully width in one clean cut, allowing for smooth and clean cut end to end, and good for healing cleanly and quickly.

The Concave Branch cutter (Mataeda Hasami) - is used to remove a whole branch at the trunk. The concave cut left behind fills over itself leaving little or no scar.

The Knob cutter (Kobu Kiri Hasami) - leaves an almost spherical cut on the branch thereby allowing it to heal flush with the surface.

Leaf cutter - Easy to use, spring loaded leaf cutters, with razor sharp blades, it makes defoliating trees a breeze.

Tools for The Beginning Bonsai Artist

2012-03-08T04:59:00.000-08:00

Those who are newly interested in the art of bonsai are often unsure about what tools are necessary to begin developing their bonsai skills. Three or four basic tools will equip one to perform most of the tasks necessary to produce and maintain an intermediate to advanced bonsai collection. It is the intent of this article to discuss the useful characteristics of basic tools and some of the more advanced, and less frequently used, tools in order to help neophytes decide which tools are needed right away and which can wait for later purchase.

THE CONCAVE PRUNER

The single most important bonsai tool is the concave pruner. Its primary function is to remove branches in a manner that promotes rapid and smooth healing of the wound. Its name comes from the shape of the cut and wound left on the woody trunk or branch. When properly used the concave pruner leaves a wound on the trunk that is taller than it is wide and slightly concave. The characteristic shape of the concave pruner wound makes use of the fact that wounds on the trunk of trees heal in from the sides rather than from the top and bottom. The concave depression into the trunk allows the wound to callous over without creating an undesirable bump on the trunk. The 8-inch concave pruner is the most versatile size.

The geometry of the cutting edges of the concave pruner is very precise. This allows one to use the pointed end for pruning very tiny limbs and even individual leaves. To preserve this precise geometry, concave pruners should never be forced by cutting material that is too large or too hard. A general rule is to never cut material that is larger than one half the size of the pruner's cutting edge measured from heel to tip. The typical 8-inch pruner is about right for cutting branches 1 1/2 inch in diameter or smaller. When cutting near capacity in size or extra hard wood, it is recommended to use the portion of the blades near the heel, rather than near the tip. This utilizes the extra thickness of the blades near the heel as well as the better mechanical advantage resulting from this portion of the cutting surfaces being closer to the tool's pivot.
All tools have a range of useful performance. If the limb is too thick for a concave pruner or has potential of splitting back into the bonsai, make the cut using a saw or large conventional pruner. The cut should be about one inch from the trunk. Then use a knob cutter to nibble away the stub and to contour the final wound surface on the trunk. Use of knob cutters is discussed later.

THE BUD SCISSORS

Bud scissors are the best tools for trimming leaves, buds and small branches. The short blades and finger holes give excellent control, enabling the user to reach into interior parts of the bonsai for trimming with precision. Although primarily used for delicate work, the mechanical advantage generated by the short blades gives consider able cutting power when needed. As the blades of the bud scissors are closed, the shafts of the handles remain apart. This helps prevent inadvertent crushing of other parts of the bonsai by the closing handle shafts.

BONSAI WIRE CUTTERS
Training bonsai normally involves the use of wire to position and shape trunk and branches. Either aluminum or annealed copper wire is used for this purpose. The wire cutter commonly available at the local hardware store are adequate for cutting wire when applying it to bonsai. This is not the case when cutting the wire to remove it from the bonsai being trained. It is good practice to remove training wire by cutting it off. The training wire is in close contact with the trunk or limb. Therefore only the tip of the wire cutter is used to sever the wire. Otherwise the branch may be seriously damaged. Relatively long cutting blades on hardware store wire cutters have very little mechanical advantage at the tips, making wire removal a difficult chore. Those with physical ailments such as tennis elbow or arthritis may find wire removal quite unpleasant with standard wire cutters. Bonsai wire cutters have very short cutting blades. This greatly increases the mechanical advantage of the tool. For years I used a standard wire cutter to save the cost of buying bonsai wire cutters. This was false economy! I can't believe I tortured my elbow for so long over the price of a relatively inexpensive tool.

THE KNOB CUTTER

This tool sometimes called the melon ball cutter has several unique capabilities. It is a valuable addition to the bonsai tool kit even though it is used much less frequently than concave pruners or bud scissors. The cutting blades of the knob cutter are shaped somewhat like two halves of a sphere coming together. The shape allows the tool to aggressively bite into wood. Protruding stubs are easily and quickly nibbled away by the knob cutter in a controlled fashion. It can remove lots of wood quickly yet is precise enough to shape the final surface cut on the trunk or branch. An additional use of the knob cutter is the removal of undesirable root or trunk material in the area of a partially removed tap root. The aggressive nibbling ability readily removes excess callous underneath the trunk where lack of space makes it difficult to use other tools. No other tool is as effective and clean in performing this task which is often necessary to properly fitting the bonsai to the pot. If used in this manner, the knob cutter should be protected by carefully avoiding blade contact with soil or anything else that might contain hard particles such as grit or stone. The root area is usually quite damp so the tool, especially blades, should be wiped clean and dry with an oily rag immediately after such use.

THE ROOT HOOK

Soil removal and untangling roots is a regular part of the chore of repotting. A chopstick or something similar is often used, especially with small size bonsai. When the bonsai artist works with medium and large size material the need for a more efficient and substantial tool arises. A variety of root hooks with as many as three points (hooks) are available. In this case, less is definitely better than more. The single point tools are superior in getting the job done with minimal damage to fine roots. Multiple point tools are slightly better for soil removal but tend to do much fine root damage due to the tendency of roots to get tangled in the multiple points.

THE ROOT CUTTER
When potting untrained material for the first time, one almost always needs to remove or shorten large roots. A number of tools can perform the needed cuts including concave pruners. The risk of damage to the tools is high because of the likelihood of small stones getting caught in the blades. The root cutter has thicker, coarser blade construction that is more resistant to damage from small stones. An additional use of the root cutter is for rough pruning of branches that are too thick and tough for the same size concave pruner. The cut is made a safe distance from the trunk and then nibbled down to the desired shape with a knob cutter. Use of this tool is much less frequent than the use of concave pruners but it is quite helpful when needed. Cheap imitations of the famous Felco pruner will do most of the same things but will not be as resistant to stone damage. I prefer the root cutter made for bonsai purposes.

MISCELLANEOUS TOOLS

Beyond the basic tools there are numerous other tools and devices that can be useful in certain circumstances. Among these are saws, brushes, tweezers, pliers for jin and wiring, gouges and other carving tools, jacks and bending levers. Purchase of these items is best reserved when it is clear that they are needed to justify the cost.

TOOL MAINTENANCE

Ideally bonsai tools should be cleaned and oiled after each use. Turpentine is excellent for removing sap buildup on the blades. After cleaning, the tool should be wiped with an oily rag, giving special attention to the cutting surfaces of the blades. Be careful - the blades are very sharp. Most of us are not disciplined enough to clean and oil our tools after each use. If one falls into this category, be sure to perform this important chore after any use that subjects the tools to unusual
amounts of sap, moisture or perspiration. Tools that are stored where they are subjected to wide temperature and humidity variations corrode at an accelerated rate due to moisture condensation.

WHAT TO BUY

A complete set of bonsai tools is not necessary for the beginner. Start with a concave pruner and perhaps a pair of bud scissors. Purchase other tools as expertise and requirements increase. When it becomes clear that one has more than a passing interest in bonsai, wire cutters, knob cutters, a root hook and root pruners will soon be added to the wish list.
Quality and price of bonsai tools vary over a wide range. What to purchase is a personal decision but I offer my thought here for your consideration. My experience has been that the poorest quality Japanese bonsai tools are consistently superior to those made anywhere else. I buy only Japanese bonsai tools. There are several grades of tools made by several Japanese companies. The best are breathtakingly expensive, even for those who have a serious bonsai interest. Although I own and use some of the most expensive tools, I find that the functionality only slightly superior to the less expensive "entry level" Japanese tools.
The nature of the art of bonsai dictates that the tools will invariably be used out of doors where unlike fine woodworking tools they are subject to substantial doses of moisture, corrosive perspiration, and the ever present threat of being lost. Even if misplaced only a day or two, the outdoor environment is likely to cause serious deterioration of the exposed working surfaces of the tool. Tools are offered that are made of stainless steel or are plated with a corrosion resistant layer. I have found the corrosion resistance of these "silver" tools a pleasant feature. Unfortunately I have felt that the sharpness of the blades on the "silver" tools not as good as tools of black steel and the "silver" tools are two to three times more expensive.
If one uses bonsai tools properly, the cutting surfaces will last for years without need for sharpening. Corrosion and abuse will greatly degrade cutting performance of a bonsai tool. Concave cutters, knob cutters and root cutters have fairly complex blade geometry which makes proper sharpening beyond the capability of most bonsai artists and most professional sharpeners as well. With the possible exception of bud scissors, sharpened bonsai tools seldom approach the performance of new tools. With these thoughts in mind, I usually limit my investment and use the least expensive grade of Japanese tool that I can tolerate. It is then much easier for me to accept the replacement made necessary by the inevitable loss, deterioration or abuse that my best intentions are unable to avoid.

What is 'Bon-sai'?

2012-03-05T12:10:00.000-08:00

The word ‘Bon-sai’ is Japanese and literally translated it means ‘planted in a container’. As a Japanese art form it is deeply rooted in Zen Buddhism and exists for well over a thousand years. The ultimate goal of growing a Bonsai tree is to create a miniaturized but realistic depiction of nature, using techniques such as pruning and wiring. Bonsai are not genetically dwarfed plants, in fact, any tree species can be used to grow one.

History of Bonsai

Although the word ‘Bon-sai’ is Japanese, the art it describes originated in the Chinese empire. By the year 700 AD the Chinese had started the art of ‘pun-sai’ using special techniques to grow dwarf trees in containers. Originally only the elite of the society practiced pun-tsai with native-collected specimens and the trees where spread throughout China as luxurious gifts. During the Kamakura period, the period in which Japan adopted most of China’s cultural trademarks, the art of growing trees in containers was introduced into Japan. The Japanese developed Bonsai along certain lines due to the influence of Zen Buddhism and the fact that Japan is only 4% the size of mainland China. The range of landscape forms was thus much more limited. Many well-known techniques, styles and tools were developed in Japan from Chinese originals. Although known to a limited extent outside Asia for three centuries, only recently has Bonsai truly been spread outside its homelands.

Top 10: Greatest Bonsai trees

Though growing Bonsai trees is a hobby practiced by many people around the world, its Asian origin is still obvious. Not surprisingly, the most impressive trees are to be found in collections of famous Japanese masters. We have put together a list of ten stunning trees that are unique in their beauty, balance and realism. These trees will help you appreciate this ancient and fascinating art!

How to grow a Bonsai tree

Most people started growing bonsai after having bought a tree in an (online) shop. Though this is without doubt a nice way to get started, it might be more interesting and less expensive to grow a tree yourself. Though 'bon-sai' is an Asian art, studied and refined for many centuries, don't think you won't be able to grow one yourself. In fact, everyone is perfectly capable of growing a tree as long as you pick the right tree species for your environment and properly care for it. In this article I'll explain how to get started with growing Bonsais and introduce you into the three main parts of this website: grow, train and bonsai care.

Bonsai styles, shapes and forms explained

Over the years many styles to classify Bonsai trees have been advanced, closely resembling circumstances in nature. These styles are open to personal interpretation and creativity, meaning that trees do not necessarily need to conform to any form. Still, the styles are important to gain a basic understanding of shapes and should serve as guidelines to successfully train miniature trees.

Shohin and Mame Bonsai trees

小品盆栽 & 豆盆栽
Shohin means “a small thing”, indicating it being even smaller than Bonsai. Although no exact rules were ever formulated, a tree is considered to be Shohin when under 25 cm (10’’) tall. Experts believe that you must be able to hold the Shohin tree in one hand, indicating the exact measure of the height of the tree is not strictly important. Mame Bonsai trees are even smaller; under 10 cm (4’’) tall.

Bonsai Tree Care

2012-03-05T11:56:00.000-08:00

Plenty of people enjoy growing bonsai trees these days. There is something very mystical about them and they are very beautiful too. The word bonsai is actual two words joined together. Bon means tray and sai means growing so it’s basically just planting in a tray. Bonsai growing is more of an art form and is a skill that should be developed over time.

Trees For Beginners
If you are just starting out it’s best to stick to certain types of trees that are suitable for beginners. The Japanese maple is a very good specimen to begin with. They can be bought read grown or they can be bought in seed form. Planting from see will be considerable cheaper however it takes longer to achieve your desired tree.

Starter Kits
Beginners can have a look out for bonsai starter kits which contains a sapling, container, training wire, soil, rocks and instructions. A kit like this can also be a great gift for someone who has shown an interest in bonsai trees. The thought of buying all the different items you need can be pretty daunting. So it’s a whole load easier to buy it in a kit.

Bonsai Tree Pruning
Keeping a bonsai tree nice and small there are a couple of things you need to do. The first thing is to prune it. How you go about pruning with depend on the individual tree and what shape you want. However make sure you buy proper pruning tools for bonsai trees to make sure you get the results you are looking for.

Pruning The Roots
You will also need to prune the roots from time to time. This is because trees are naturally intended to be grown in the ground where there is plenty of space for the roots to spread out. When growing a tree in a pot, the roots can easily become too big for the container. So you will need to trim them back
So if you’ve been thinking about getting a bonsai tree you’d be forgiven for feeling that it’s going to be difficult. It really doesn’t have to be that difficult if you start off with the easy species of tree and then progress onto more difficult ones as you become more experienced.