Orchids

Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchid)

2011-06-16T10:21:00.000-07:00

Beautiful Phalaenopsis

The Phalaenopsis or the elegant Moth orchid is one of the most beautiful with fleshy leaves and flowers in a huge range of colors. The Phalaenopsis orchid is becoming more and more popular as a houseplant due to their ease of culture and to their beautiful, long-lasting flowers. Modern Phalaenopsis orchid hybrids are very colorful and some are fragrant as well. The wedding favorites are large white Phalaenopsis orchid flowers with yellow in the lip. For all of these, the orchid flowers will last for several months with the proper care. The Phalaenopsis orchid originated from the jungles of South Asia, Southeast Asia, as well as East Asia.

CULTIVATION

Growing Phalaenopsis orchid plants is very easy and Phalaenopsis has beautiful orchid flowers of vivid colors including white, pink, lavender and yellow. The blooms open along a long orchid flower spike that is sometimes two feet in length. ThePhalaenopsis orchid is odorless and may produce up to 15 or more orchid flowers per spike. The Phalaenopsisflowers measure up to four inches, are long lasting with individual blooms, may remain open for six weeks or longer. ThePhalaenopsis orchid boasts long arching sprays of flowers and it sort of resembles a flight of pale moths in moonlight hence this particular orchid plant named the Moth Orchid. The most popular colors are the soft whites with yellow or red lips, and the glowing pinks and blushes. The other flower shades of this orchid are deep red, vibrant orange and spotted and striped.

Temperature

The ideal temperature range that Phalaenopsis orchid plants require to thrive is between 15 and 30° Celsius (59 and 86° Fahrenheit). The Phalaenopsis orchid normally flower once each year, initiating the new bloom spike in autumn and flowering during mid-winter. A drop in temperature at night for at least a few days in early autumn usually encourages teh flower spikes to develop sooner. Often a secondary orchid flower spike will form after the first has finished blooming. To effect secondary orchid flowers you will need to leave the old bloom spike on the plant.

Light

Phalaenopsis orchids or moth orchids do not tolerate high levels of light. In fact any direct sunshine will burn and even scorch the Phalaenopsis orchid plant and severely mark the succulent parts of the Phalaenopsis orchid plant to such an extent that it will inhibit growth and stop the orchid from properly transporting nutrients to the leaves. Phalaenopsisorchids will do best with bright light, but indirect sunlight. If you are growing orchids indoors, especially the Phalaenopsis orchid, then you should place the orchid near a sunny window. Other orchid species such as the Cattleya orchids, the Cymbidium orchids and the Vanda orchids require much more light. And do avoid cold or warm drafts, especially drafts that result from open windows or heat vents.

Water and humidity

The Phalaenopsis orchid should be watered regularly, allowing the medium in which the orchid plant is growing to become almost dry before watering again. If you have yourPhalaenopsis orchid indoors then you should consider watering your orchid plant every three days in summer and only once every two weeks over winter. (Tip: Take care not to over-water or over-feed the Phalaenopsis orchid as it might result in death of your orchid plant.)

The Phalaenopsis orchid is capable of surviving without water provided that humidity levels are maintained. After the plants are watered, they should be placed so that the pots do not stand in water. Some people like to place the pots on "humidity trays" or in trays or saucers of gravel. This helps to insure that the base of the pot is not immersed in water and provides some air circulation under the pot. (Tip: Water your Phalaenopsis orchid in the early morning so that excess water can evaporate before nightfall.)

Feeding

The Phalaenopsis orchid is not a heavy feeder, unlike some of the other orchid species. In fact growing Phalaenopsis orchids is quite easy. It is best to provide the Phalaenopsisorchid with regular applications of the orchid fertilizer. BUT remember to apply the fertilizer at half the recommended strength only. With high nitrogen-based orchid fertilizer it is best to apply the fertilizer during spring followed by applications of general fertilizer throughout summer and a bloom booster type of fertilizer in autumn. And in winter use the general type of fertilizer.

Pests and Diseases

The Phalaenopsis orchid can fall prey to diseases such as mealy bug and pests such as scale insects. The best way to treat your Phalaenopsis orchid, when it falls prey to these conditions is to deal with it as soon as you detect these afflictions. The first action to take is to isolate the infected plant as this is essential because all bacterial and fungal orchid diseases can spread amongst your orchids by the most simplest of ways such as the splashing of water. You can detect these afflictions as it is manifested as blackened blistering on the orchid plant leaves. After isolating the infected Phalaenopsis orchid, keep it drier than usual and avoid getting water on the leaves (Tip: No misting during this period).

Black honey mould which is usually dull, black and mossy can also build up, but fortunately it can be wiped off the orchid plant making use of a damp cloth and a very mild detergent.

POTTING MIX AND REPOTTING

The Phalaenopsis orchid is epiphytic, but they have adapted to such an extent that one can grow Phalaenopsis orchids as pot plants. Potting of the Phalaenopsis orchid is best done in late spring or early summer after blooming has completed on an annual basis. The roots of the Phalaenopsis orchid has developed to such an extent that once they are satisfied that there is enough space and support inside a pot; they will extend their aerial roots. The plants must be potted in quick draining potting mix. The potting mix is best if it consists of a very open mix of medium sized bark and perlite. Alternatively you can also make Phalaenopsis orchid potting mix out of a mix of expanded clay, some sphagnummoss and tree-fern fiber. Do however keep in mind that any potting mix will eventually become sour as it deteriorates. This is normally manifested visibly by the Phalaenopsis orchid plant extending aerial root out of the pot.

Root rot will occur if Phalaenopsis plants are allowed to sit in an old, soggy medium and you need to make sure that the orchid plants are potted in quick draining potting mix. The young Phalaenopsis orchid plants should grow fast enough to warrant annual repotting. A further tip is to pot the young Phalaenopsis orchid plant in a finer grade medium to allow good root contact. Mature Phalaenopsis orchid plants are potted in a coarser medium may stay in the same pots for years, provided that medium is changed whenever signs ofpotting mix deterioration sets in.

The repotting procedure can be carried out as follows:

Remove all old medium from the roots.
Trim off rotted roots.
Spread the remaining roots over a handful of medium in a pot.
fill the rest of the pot with medium, working through the roots, so that the junction of the upper roots and the stem is slightly below the medium.
Do take care not to leave large air pockets in pots.
Use a stick to push the medium in between the roots.
Keep plants in shade and wait for one to three days before watering.

General tips for Phalaenopsis Orchid care

Would you want to extend the blooming season of your Phalaenopsis orchid? Then proceed as follows: count out 3 nodes (only the fleshy green nodes on your orchid plant) from the base of the spike and cut the spike one inch above the third node. If the orchid plant is healthy and it's not too late in the blooming season, this process will start up one or two of the nodes and it may produce a new spray of fresh blooms. Frequently when a spike is cut, a secondary spike will develop on the old stalk below the original orchid flower head, thus extending the blooming season of your Phalaenopsis orchid.
Is your Phalaenopsis orchid stressed from flowering too much? You can determine the stress level of your Phalaenopsis orchid as stress is manifested as white streaks in the orchid leaves. You can remedy the situation by removing the flowering stem and repotting the Phalaenopsis orchid plant to give it a rest.
They should be watered thoroughly and not watered again until the potting mix is nearly dry. The potting mix should never be allowed to dry out completely.
Never let water touch the flowers or stand in the centerfolds of the leaves as doing so may cause rot.
The Phalaenopsis orchid species demand plenty of heat and moisture. If your Phalaenopsis orchid is cultivated in too dry a climate, then the young buds will dry out and fall off. It is thus imperative to maintain humidity.
The Phalaenopsis orchids like bright but indirect sunlight.
If you make use of your Phalaenopsis orchid as a decorative orchid plant then you might consider placing a few blocks of ice in the sphagnum moss to ensure that they are kept adequately watered.

Cymbidium Orchid Cultivation

2011-06-16T10:13:00.000-07:00

A Beautiful Cymbidium Orchid

Cymbidium orchid species are not widely cultivated, but hybrids of Cymbidium orchids lend themselves to cultivation. They make excellent pot plants and cut flowers and as such the Cymbidium orchids (both the species and the hybrids) are very popular. Incidentally their flowering period coincides with the Winter Christmas season in the Northern hemisphere. These Cymbidium orchids make great gifts for loved ones. These semi-terrestrial orchids have narrow, fleshy, and leathery, strap shaped leaves and the flowers have irregular, waxy, almost translucent petals with entire margins. Center is often a contrasting color.

Cymbidium orchids are the best known and most widely grown of all orchids and orchid hybrid types which will survive in almost any place. They contain around 44 species; the large flowered types which come from the higher regions of theHimalayas and the Orient require cool conditions to flower well.

The Cymbidium orchid flower is very showy and there can be as many as 20-30 blooms or more on a single spike. The blooms vary in size and this reflects their labeling. Standard cymbidium orchids have large flowers and the miniaturecymbidium orchid varieties have smaller flowers. The Cymbidium orchids come in Pink, White, Yellow, Orange, Red, Purple Light Green, and variations in-between.

Temperature

Temperature requirements for Cymbidium orchids range from cool to medium, but they prefer moderate light. A temperature of between 10 and 30 degrees Celsius (that is 50 to 85 °F) is ideal. One should however take care not to stress theCymbidium orchids by exposing it to temperatures beyond this range. However, in the latter part of summer it may be wise to have the temperature drop at night to force Cymbidium orchids into bloom. This temperature drop is required to maximize flowering else the buds will turn yellow and drop down if it is too hot at night in summer. (Tip: Keep the orchids cool until the flowers have opened.)

Light

Cymbidium orchids tolerate most light levels well. This may be in the form of good morning sun or bright, "dappled" afternoon shade. If you have the Cymbidium orchid indoors you need to take care that it is not placed in a location that catches direct light, but rather place it in a location where they will get enough shade so as to protect the leaves from being scorched. Cymbidium orchids are phototropic and good light will ensure that the stems develop strong and firm which will further reward you with many flower heads that the orchid plant will be able to carry. A lanky long stem will not be able to carry the heavy Cymbidium orchid flower heads.

Moisture and humidity

Cymbidium orchids require frequent watering. You should thus water it thoroughly; keep the soil evenly moist to touch (not saturated or soggy wet). You certainly do not want to sit with Cymbidium orchids that are inflicted with root rot. Never allow water to collect around the bulbs, and never allow the plants to stand in water.

Humidity will prevent crinkled leaves. Air movement around Cymbidium orchids is also a requirement that should not be overlooked. The bigger the area around the plants, the more air movement (not draught) there will be and the sooner the Cymbidium orchid plant will dry out.

Feeding

The Cymbidium orchid plant is known as a hungry plant. They will not flower very well if not fed adequately. Cymbidiumorchids should be fed just after every third watering (or about once every two weeks). Remember, Cymbidium orchids are watered frequently. Use a high nitrogen fertilizer such as 30:10:10 in spring to ensure that you get new growth. In summer this orchid fertilizer should be changed to a more general balanced 18:18:18 feed. In the following fall season you need to feed the Cymbidium orchids with a high potash-based fertilizer, a blossom booster, - say a 10:30:20 feed. And in winter you must change the feed to half strength general feed at least once a week. Heavy watering once every month is necessary to leach accumulated fertilizer salts from the potting medium. You do not want a build-up of un-dissolved fertilizer in the potting medium. This can cause the Cymbidium orchid roots to burn and result in root rot.

Pests and Diseases

Mealybugs are a real problem for the Cymbidium orchid cultivator: Wash with soapy water or wipe off with alcohol using cotton swab.
Red spider mite can also cause problems. Do mist the top and underside of the leaves regularly.
Scale insects: Scrape off. Isolate. If severe, dispose of the Cymbidium orchid plants that are affected and infected.
The Cymbidium mosaic virus: Purple ring spots and lines and patterns on the leaves. There is no control for theCymbidium mosaic virus. Do not take cuttings from infected orchid plants. Destroy the infected orchid plants.

Potting mix and Repotting

The potting mix for the Cymbidium orchids should contain Osmunda, fir tree bark, or even coconut fiber. These will help to keep the plant stable in the pot and allow a free flow of water and air through the pot. Also quite popular to use as potting mixture for Cymbidium orchids, is a mixture of equal parts of medium-grade bark and perlite. The perlite is a white mineral substance that will provide aeration for the Cymbidium orchid. The bark-based compost will reduce any risk of rotting. Do not allow them to dry-out completely between watering.

Cymbidium orchids should be repotted every other year in the spring. Flower spikes may have to be removed in order to repot before summer. Do ensure that the new container have enough space to allow two years growth (based on mature bulb size). The pseudobulbs should rest just at the top of the mix and not be buried under the potting mix.

General tips for cymbidium orchid care

Select sturdy, shapely orchid plants with healthy foliage and bright, clear colored flowers.
Check leaf axils for insects.
Avoid plants with disease or insect damage.
After flowering you should put the Cymbidium orchid plant in bright light.
To get the Cymbidium orchids to re-flower you must expose the orchid plant to temperatures below 10°Celsius or 55°Fahrenheit for three weeks with twelve hours or more of darkness nightly. Then raise temperature and give full sun.
If your Cymbidium orchid fails to bloom, place it in brighter location. Cymbidium orchids are not difficult to grow if the necessary requirements are provided to them. It is propagated by rhizome division and is well grown in bright indirect light. Without enough light many Cymbidium orchids will not bloom.
The Cymbidium orchid needs high humidity.
Fertilize your Cymbidium orchids until they are through blooming.
When new growth appears, fertilize with a bloom-booster fertilizer.
Cymbidium orchids can be repotted every alternate year or more frequently if the plant has deteriorated due to fungal infections or if rotting has occurred with over watering. A Cymbidium orchid plant may sometimes become fairly large and it may be divided or split. However larger the orchid plant, the more flower spikes you can expect.

Vanda Care

2011-06-16T09:50:00.000-07:00

Vanda Gordon Dillon

This Orchids are not very different from the Ascocenda orchid and the Phalaenopsis orchid or the Moth Orchid as it is fondly thought of. All these orchid species are totally tropical. The Vanda orchids are no more difficult to grow than other orchids, but they do have special cultural needs if you want to bring out the best in this orchid species. The Vanda orchids originated from the warm islands of the South Pacific. Places like Malaysia, Thailand, Borneo and the Philippines are home, natural home, to these orchid species. These sympodial epiphytic orchids prefer full sun exposure and thus like bright light, warm temperatures, and lots of humidity. They have long, trailing roots that draw moisture and nutrients from the atmosphere.

Vanda orchids, or the Vandaceous orchid to give its proper name, has become so popular since they are an excellent orchid species that lends itself to hybridization with several other orchid species. It has been used in so many successful hybridizations. Any mention of the Vanda orchid is not complete without mentioning the Vanda sanderiana (also known as the Euanthe sanderiana). This is a truly beautiful orchid that bears bright pink and maroon orchid flowers that have spectacularly long-lasting characteristics. Another spectacular example of the Vanda orchid hybridization is the Vanda Rothschildiana x Vanda Coerulea, which is possibly the bluest of all orchid flowers with heavy contrasts of white. The orchid flowers itself are saucer-sized, flat blooms with an extremely heavy substance and a crystalline texture that glistens in the light.

CULTIVATION

These days the Vanda orchid is grown widely around the world, in Durban (South Africa), in the Netherlands, and in Florida (USA) despite the fact that they are rather unwilling to flower in climates other than their natural habitat. The fact that there are many successful hybridization of this orchid species accounts for the widespread occurrence of this orchid species. The wide range of colors which includes some fairly good blues and browns has added greatly to their popularity. The Vanda orchid comes in yellow, orange, scarlet, deep purple and bright fuchsia orchid flowers. There are many size variations and some of these orchid flowers sport exotic markings or can be covered with spots or stripes. ManyVanda orchids have a powerful fragrance. The inflorescences appear from the axis of the leaves. The orchid flowers are long lasting and appear in a cluster along the spike. I just need to add that these orchids have long lasting flowers on the plant and not when used as cut flowers.

Temperature

Like most tropical orchids, the Vanda orchid prefers warm temperatures with plenty of air movement. These orchids will continue to grow anytime of the year if given warm temperatures, plenty of light and even full exposure to the sun. They require high temperatures in summer and winter. These orchids will perish if exposed to frost or cold for long periods if grown outside in your home orchid garden. Even if you cultivate your orchid plants indoors, you need to ensure that your Vanda orchids are kept at the optimal temperature where they will thrive. In cooler areas the orchid plant will go into a dormant state during winter. This dormancy is not to the orchid plant's detriment because it in most cases result in bigger and better flowers. The ideal temperature range for the Vanda orchid is a low of 15° Celsius (59° Fahrenheit) in winter and a summer high of 32° Celsius (98° Fahrenheit). The Vanda orchids are capable of tolerating higher and lower temperatures for short periods only.

Light

All Vanda orchids require light. Too little light will result in lanky and soft orchid plants. If you are cultivating these orchids at home be sure to make use of 20 to 30 percent shade cloth. The Vanda orchid is fast growing and therefore prefer high light levels. A covered roof is even better since you can then protect the Vanda orchid with its blooms from the harsh rain and winds.

Water and humidity

The Vanda orchid or the Vandaceous orchid loves water. Watering the Vanda orchid should happen on a daily basis in slightly drier but warm climates. In true tropical warm weather fashion, the Vanda orchid require water and high humidity.

You also need to keep in mind that the Vanda orchid also likes to be cooled by a constant breeze. This makes air movement vital to the successful cultivation of Vanda orchids.Stagnant air can result in fungal and bacterial rot.

Feeding

All Vandaceous orchids are heavy feeders. You should provide them with a high nitrogen orchid fertilizer such as Bloom Booster in spring to shake it up after its winter dormancy. During the summer you should follow the feeding schedule with a general fertilizer and a good bloom booster in autumn. There is no need to feed your Vanda orchid during the winter, but if you intend to keep your orchid plants warm during winter then you can continue to feed to orchid plant. In excessively cool weather winter feeding would be wasteful. (Tip: Always water before fertilizing.)

Pests and Diseases

The Vanda orchid is not particularly susceptible to pests or disease. In the event of scale insects being detected, as wiping the surface of the leaves with methylated spirits on a cotton bud and following up with a systemic spray should stop the problem. Always try to steer clear of chemical as it is the least recommended route of treatment for infectedVanda orchids. Only treat bad infestations with chemicals.

POTTING MIX AND RE-POTTING

It is known that the Vanda orchid may grow to be very large plants. They normally grow best suspended in wooden baskets and require warm growing conditions with plenty of bright light. Thus the potting of the Vanda orchid is referred to as Basket Culture. These orchid plants are air-loving plants and they do not require any media in which to be cultivated. Awooden slated basket is ideal. From seedling stage the orchid plant should be secured to the base of the wooden basket with wire so as to prevent them from moving around. Before you know it the orchid plant will develop into a young plant that will attach itself to the basket and produce several roots. As time passes the Vanda orchids will grow and 'repotting' can be when you simply place the smaller basket into a bigger basket until the plants are too big to handle. Then you should consider cutting the orchid plant back and replant them in baskets of a more suitable, manageable size.

One major advantage of basket culture for the Vanda orchid is that they are less prone to pick up fungal and bacterial diseases.

GENERAL TIPS FOR VANDA ORCHID CARE

If the Vanda orchid is grown as a houseplant, they appreciate spending the warmer months outside. They like bright light, but the leaves will burn if they go directly from indoor conditions to full sunlight. The Vanda orchid needs less water in the fall and winter but may be watered most mornings in the summer, especially when grown outside under trees.
Vanda orchids are very rewarding. The new hybrids are free blooming and usually flower several times a year. Vanda orchid flowers are long lasting on the plant but do not last well when cut.
Vanda orchids are often grown outdoors in hanging baskets during the summer months.
The Vanda orchid is a heavy feeder and should be fed a balanced fertilizer often.

Cattleya trianae - Cattleya Lirio de Mayo

2011-06-16T09:19:00.000-07:00

Full bloom of the orchids

Common Name: Dr. Triana's Cattleya

Habitat: Columbia. Cattleya trianae is widespread in the mountains near Magdalena, Popayan, Medellin, Bogota, Buga, and Ibague. The orchids traditionally have been found in areas ranging from the seashore to the mountains, but the best zone to find them is from 1,800 to 2,500 meters above sea level.

Plant Size: Cattleya trianae is a full-sized Cattleya. Unifoliate. Pseudobulbs are grow to about a foot (30 cm) long and are distictively club-shaped. The lone leaf is long and has a notch at the apex.

Flower Size: 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm)

Flower Description: Petals and sepals of Cattleya trianae are pinkish-lavender. The front lobe of the lip is dark lavender or crimson. Petals are wider than sepals and somewhat ruffled. The throat is yellow. Flower color is highly variable and its flowers range across 15 colors, from white to red. The flower stem grows to 12 inches (30 cm) long and bears between three (common) and 14 (uncommon) flowers.

Bloom Season: Winter to early Spring (late December to March)

Growing Temperature: Intermediate to Hot

Additional Information: New growth begins shortly after flowering finishes in the early spring and continues till August. The sheaths are formed when the growth matures but flower buds do not start to grow until October. Give typical cattleya growing conditions. There are some additional varieties available including Cattleya triane mooreana which has a dark splash on each petal. At one time, there were more named varieties of this species than any other Cattleya. It was quite popular as a winter cut flower for corsages in the early 20th century.

Cattleya trianae is the national flower of Columbia and is endangered in its native habitat as a result of environmental degradation and urbanization.

Synonyms: Cattleya bogotensis, Cattleya kimballiana, Cattleya labiata var. trianaei, Cattleya lindigii, Epidendrum labiatum var. trianaei