Travel Ideas

Best Summer Parties

2010-07-15T14:36:00.000-07:00

Malta - alta is the Bournemouth of the Med – thought to be blue-rinse but actually full of ravers. The island, south of Sicily, has the weather and DJs of Ibiza, without the inflated prices. The tiny country has only just begun shouting about its surprisingly vibrant club culture, and the kind of alfresco dance floors that Ibiza can only reminisce about. There are huge open-air clubs such as Gianpula in the town of Rabat; La Grotta, a club built into a cliff face on the nearby island of Gozo and an opulent wine lounge with table service at the top of Malta's highest building, the Portomaso tower in the town of St Julian's.

Croatia - In the past two years Croatia has become one of the most talked-about countries for clubbers looking for a European festival without the euro. A growing number of boutique festivals have helped build a buzz about the country. Events such as the Garden Festival from 2-11 July, Electric Elaphant from 27-29 August, and Soundwave from 23-25 July (and already sold out), are all held in the quaint coastal town of Petrcane, perfect for exploring the Croatian islands. The site is minute compared with many festivals but has outdoor stages, boat parties and an indoor club. In the neighbouring town of Zadar, the Garden Zadar, a beautiful outdoor bar and restaurant overlooking one of the harbours, is running some events with acts from the Garden Festival.

Charlotte Colgan, a promoter for the Garden Festival, says you can still have a good night out in Zadar outside festival time. The cafe bar Djina (Varoska 2) in the old town is tiny and cool, with an art gallery and really lovely rooms to rent above. (I'd really recommend these as they cost just 400 kuna (£45) a night and are very nicely done out.) Stick to the Varoska area – and bar hop from Djina to Shine Bar (M. Pavlinovica 14), taking in restaurants such as Stomorica (Stomorica 12, +385 23 315946) and Bruscetta (M. Pavlinovica 12, +385 23 312915). MTV and Godskitchen are taking over the Croatian island of Pag for three nights from 11 August. Swedish House Mafia and Above and Beyond will be playing to 5,000 people a night against a backdrop of the Velebit mountains.

Sicily - Riccione on the mainland has long been the capital of the Italian dance music scene, but over the last 15 years Sicily's house music has flourished, with lots of new DJs, groups and producers, and late-night beach bars and clubs. The scene really kicked off in the 90s with a famous dance group called Ti.Pi.Cal (after its three members Daniele Tignino, Riccardo Piparo and Vincenzo Callea). Sicilian music is passionate, sexy and sensual. For beach bars playing house music to a relaxed, Peroni-sipping crowd try Mondello beach near Palermo.

Europe's Luxury Camsites

2010-07-15T14:24:00.000-07:00

Eco Retreats - Powys

Located on a 1,300-acre organic farm in the Dyfi Forest, at the end of a four-mile track, this venture aims to help campers "reconnect with the rhythms of the environment". Accommodation is made up of five tipis (each sleeping up to five) and one yurt (sleeping up to six), set among meadows and mature oak woods. All are furnished with sheepskin rugs, double beds, wood-burning stove or chiminea, and have their own outside toilet and spring-water shower. Guests are offered a complimentary healing session, evening meditation session and tickets for the nearby Centre for Alternative Technology.

Eco Luxury Yurt Suite - Lanzarote

This yurt is part of a collection of nine eco properties located on the family-run Finca de Arrieta estate, 30km from the capital, Arrecife. It sleeps up to five and is beautifully decorated with rich fabrics, wood flooring and antique Mongolian hardwood furniture, such as the super king-size bed. It also has its own marble-floor bathroom, outdoor kitchen and garden with a Polynesian-style daybed – perfect for a sundowner. Soak up some rays on the small sandy beach just 200m away, walk to the nearby fishing village of Arrieta, then head back to the finca for a dip in the communal solar-heated swimming and plunge pools.

Canna Camping Holidays - Inner Hebrides

Campers looking for the ultimate away-from-it-all retreat can bed down in a bell tent on the Isle of Canna, the furthest of the Small Isles from the Scottish mainland, which has just 19 inhabitants. The tent comes with a wood-burning stove and solar lighting, and sleeps up to four in one double and two single futons (an extra mattress can be provided). There's a toilet and shower a short walk away (take 50p coins). The island is renowned for its bird life, including sea eagles and puffins, and you can also expect to see dolphins, basking sharks, minke whales, and occasionally orcas.

Mongolian Yurts - Vaud

These seven yurts bag the title for the best location – 2,045m-high, among edelweiss-filled meadows on the summit of the Rochers-de-Naye. Reachable via a scenic cog railway from Montreux, which takes less than an hour, the fully insulated yurts (complete with electric heating for those snowy winter nights) are open year round and decked out in authentic furnishings with beds sleeping up to eight. Watch the sun set over Lake Geneva, then warm your cockles with a Mongolian fondue in the cliff-face restaurant Plein Roc.

Eco Lodge Brejeira - Algarve

Situated in the heart of the Algarve, near the town of Silves, this retreat is as unique as it is eco-friendly. Choose between a beautifully furnished Mongolian yurt, which has a raised veranda to watch the sunset, an old-fashioned Dutch gypsy caravan, or a converted German fire truck. Each sleeps two and has its own shower and compost toilet (to help feed the vegetable garden); the latter two also have kitchen areas. Or head to the communal straw-bale building, where breakfast and a three-course dinner are served on request. Spend your days exploring the nearby beaches, or set off on the new Via Algarviana hiking and mountain biking track, which passes right under Brejeira.

Teapot Lane Luxury Camp - Country Leitrim

One of Ireland's first luxury yurt camps has just opened its doors in an unspoilt corner of northwest Ireland. Located in five acres of woodland, the three handcrafted yurts – sleeping between two and five – feature king-size beds, rugs and pot-bellied stoves. Two restored country cottages provide self-catering and bathroom facilities, and there are also compost toilets, campfire and BBQ areas, plus hammocks and swings in the woodlands. The camp also offers holistic aromatherapy, massage and reflexology treatments. This is a prime spot for surfers – Bundoran is a short drive away.

Casas Karen - Cadiz

This is not so much a campsite as a complete tiny rustic village tucked away in a garden of umbrella pines and sand dunes and all just a few minutes' walk from the nearest beach. It's made up of 11 cottages and chozas – which are traditional thatched Spanish beach huts made of straw and bamboo. Our favourite is Choza Grande, which sleeps two and has a kitchen, lounge and dining area downstairs with sofas and rugs, and a bed on a raised wooden platform. Waste is composted and water is drawn from the campsite's own well. Massage, yoga and meditation can be arranged, and there is everything from canoeing to dolphin watching nearby.

Ecovallee Yurt Camping - Dordogne

Opening this weekend, this family-run camp is set in 12 acres of land just 300m from the bastide town of Lalinde. It's perfect for families, with a handcrafted chestnut and canvas yurt sleeping four and a 12ft "play yurt" filled with toys and games. Outside you'll find a canvas-covered kitchen/dining area, a compost toilet and woodland play area as well as foraging pigs, free-range chickens (wake up to fresh eggs every morning) and Pepito, the owners' horse. Stock up on provisions at the weekly market at Beaumont; visit the Château des Milandes; or sign up for one of the on-site activities – there's therapeutic massage and reiki for the parents, and bread-making and face-painting for the kids.

Jolly Days - Yorkshire

How do you fancy swapping your airbed for a four-poster? Jolly Days, which opened last summer, is the latest UK venture to jump on the glamping bandwagon. It's made up of seven bell tents and seven tented lodges, set in 200 acres of private woodland on the edge of the Yorkshire Wolds. While the tented lodges, each sleeping up to six, boast four-poster beds, chandeliers, sofas around a woodburner and toilets, the bell tents are more basic, with coir matting and futon sofabeds, each sleeping four. There are communal showers, as well as a communal fire pit, cooking hut and clay oven. Hire bikes to explore the trails in nearby Dalby Forest or head to York, just over 10 miles away.

Camping Les Moulins - Noirmoutier Island

France has its fair share of campsites, but none has quite the same ooh-la-la factor as this one, located off the Vendée coast. Following a revamp last year, it features a range of canvas lodges (sleeping two to eight) and tipis (sleeping four) – think proper beds, kitchens, dining areas, even en suite bathrooms in some – set among five hectares of pine trees and dunes along a beach. Don your walking shoes to explore nearby villages, hop on the Noirmoutier petit train (it stops directly outside the campsite) to the centre of town or just kick back in the heated indoor or outdoor pool, sauna, Jacuzzi and spa.

10 Things To See In Venice

2010-07-15T14:06:00.000-07:00

The Venice Biennale of Architecture may not be as prestigious as the older and larger Biennale of Contemporary Art, but it still represents a unique opportunity to explore not only the national pavillions of the Giardini, the Biennale Gardens, but also a host of spaces - the Arsenale, palaces, churches, private mansions - that are normally closed off to the public. The title of the 11th Biennale is Out There: Architecture Beyond Building, which gives a clear indication that these days the exhibits are just as interesting for the general public as for professional architects and designers. There is an incredible choice of exhibits from 56 countries, plus 25 collateral events. Seeing everything is pretty much impossible, so here are 10 not to miss.

Biennale Gardens

Any visit to the Biennale begins at the Giardini, the sprawling gardens where over 30 countries have their national pavilions. It is not chauvinistic for once to say that the British pavillion is one of the grandest, strategically looking down over the adjoining French and German pavillions. And this year's exhibition, Home/Away, has been acclaimed as one of the best in the Biennale. Five architects - Sergison Bates, Tony Fretton, de Rijke Marsh Morgan, Witherford Watson Mann and Maccreanor Lavington - have been selected to illustrate the particularly British obsession of owning your own house, and examine whether this can function in the rest of Europe. And the questions asked could not be more relevant given the current credit crunch and collapse of the housing market.

Ca' Del Duca

As you follow signs for Luxembourg's pavillion, you come to what looks like a dead end - a small courtyard with a single tall tree coming out on to the Grand Canal. But a small door at the end leads to the discrete Ca' Del Luca palace, which was built in the 15th century. Luxembourg's exhibition could not be more minimalist - a series of white boards that snake from one room into another. But the idea is intriguing for those who take the time to read about it - four crucial architectural questions answered by 12 different Europeans.

Museo Diocenesa Urbis

This collateral exhibition showcases the architectually influenced artworks of the Venetian artist, Gaspare Manos. There are 150 works on show, and his paintings are bright, vivid impressions of cities around the world. But this is also a brilliant opportunity to discover one of Venice's most wonderful cloisters, the Chiostro di Sant Apollonia. Built in the 12th century, this is Venice's only surviving Romanesque cloister, and the rest of the building where the exhibition is on view is a former Benedictine Monastery.

Corderie & Artigliere

The ancient buildings of Venice's once mighty Arsenale, the Corderie and Artegliere, form a vast alternative exhibition hall for the countries that don't have their own national pavillion in the Biennale Gardens. The space itself is easily as impressive as many of the installations, and it sometimes seems that each exhibit just tries to shock the visitor more than its neighbour. The local press has been delightfully shocked by the Swiss architect, Philippe Rahm whose Meterological installation of hot and cold panels features eight live performers, two of whom are nude. Other exhibits not to miss are those of British designer Nigel Coates, and Living Inhere, a look at the problems of urban architecture in Mexico City.

Palazzo Giustinian Lolin

You have to navigate your way through a maze of dark, narrow Venetian backstreets to actually find Ireland's exhibition, but it is well worth the effort as the pavillion is housed in a magnificent 17th-century palazzo that looks out on to the Grand Canal. Push through the door and you enter a closed courtyard with a grand well, and The Lives of Spaces is housed in a series of rooms decorated with Murano chandeliers and period paintings on the first floor. It is quite a contrast to the videos, TV screens and minimalist white cubes illustrating nine "lives" of different spaces, through the design, construction, original use and later reuse.

Chiesa di San Stae

You can't miss the sumptuous white baroque facade of the San Stae church, and there is a vaporetto water bus stop right outside, so it is easy to get to. Usually tourists wander in to gaze at the marvellous religious paintings, including one by Tiepolo, but for the duration of the Biennale, the interior is dramatically transformed by Bornhouse, an exhibition of 26 Russian and international architects considering the rather weighty theme of "birth", both of buildings and humans. The result is rather stunning, as a glowing creche has been built in the middle of the church, filled with architectural objects like clay, papier-mache, glass and metal.

Campo Della Tana

Situated just opposite the entrance to the Arsenale, this typical Venetian "campo", is a small, enclosed square with an adjoining warehouse. It is something of a poor cousin to many of the grand national pavillions, but at least Hong Kong has retained its sovereignty and separateness from mainland China, which doesn't even have its own pavillion and exhibits in the Giardini as part of the Italian pavillion. Hong Kong has created a colourful, vibrant "Cultural Factory", including not just architects but designers, photographers, performers and writers. Six different projects are presented, and check out the fun T-shirts of Prince Charles and Bill Clinton in the 'Accidental Urbanism" section.

Palazzo Pesaro Papafava

Another magnificent palace that is usually shut off from the public, the Biennale provides one of the rare moments to explore Palazzo Papafava, which dates back to the 15th century. It is hosting what is termed a "collateral event" organised by the Fondazione Mudima from Milan. This is almost more Biennale of Art than Architecture, where painting, sculpture, photography, video and performance are used to interpret a very conceptual theme, and perhaps not surprisingly, one of the stars of the show is Yoko Ono.

Palazzo Franchetti

Situated just by the Accademia bridge, the Palazzo Franchetti is quite simply one of the most beautiful palaces that line the Grand Canal. Built in the 15th century, it incorporates a stunning mix of Gothic and Byzantine influences, and today is the headquarters of the Venetian Institute of Science, Letters and Art. During the Biennale, visitors can admire both its splendid interiors and a major exhibition dedicated to the life and works of Danish architect, Jorn Utzon, creator of the Sydney Opera House.

Arsenale Spazio Thesis

No one should miss the chance to wander round Venice's historic Arsenale - the shipyard where warships of the Venetian were madde and launched centuries ago - which still has a military "no entrance" status for the rest of the year. Don't stop at the Artiglerie and Corderie either, carry on past the huge rusting cranes and boats awaiting repair until you reach the point where a tiny boat ferries visitors across to a new exhibition area, the Spazio Thesis. Inside these industrial workshops is possibly the most magical exhibit of the Biennale, illustrating a classic Italian garden inspired Botticelli's The Birth of Venus that is actually under construction in the Chinese town of Tianjin.

France - Most Expensive Holiday Destination

2010-07-15T13:38:00.000-07:00

France is the most expensive place to take a holiday according to research published today, despite the public perception that it is cheaper to visit than the Nordic countries, Dubai and Japan. A survey by flight comparison website Skyscanner compared the cost of paying for various typical items – including a coffee, a beer, a meal, accommodation in a Marriott hotel and hiring a car from Avis - in 30 different countries and found that the cheapest place to buy these was Cyprus, followed by mainland Greece and South Africa. If the cost of a flight was then included Cyprus and Greece were still the cheapest, followed by Morocco.

But UK consumers were way off the mark when it came to predicting which countries were the cheapest or most expensive. Although the 1,500 people questioned for the survey were correct in ranking India, Thailand and Morocco among the least expensive, they also thought Mexico would be the fourth most competitively priced destination whereas it is actually in the top 10 most expensive, both excluding and including flights.

Flights added considerably to the cost of holidays in far flung countries: although New Zealand was in the bottom 10 excluding flights, it moved up to eighth most expensive when travel was included.

But perhaps most surprising was Dubai, which, perhaps because of its millionaires' playground image, was considered to be the fifth most expensive. In reality, however, it was the 12th most expensive excluding flights and dropped to 14th including flights, just behind Italy, Iceland and America.

Barry Smith, director and co-founder of Skyscanner, said: "We decided to undertake this research in response to consumer demand for greater price transparency on their trips abroad. Whilst the results are to some extent subjective, they do provide a broad guideline of total holiday cost.

"It is extremely interesting to see how many destinations challenge common perceptions and I am more than a little surprised to see France, a destination only a stone's throw away, emerge as the most expensive overall holiday.

"These figures show it is vital to consider all the hidden extras when planning a holiday, particularly that of the flight. Consumers shouldn't assume because a destination is known to be cheap when you get there, that the total cost won't escalate considerably once the cost of flights are added, making it a far pricier choice than some of the short-haul alternatives."

Dubrovnik - Wonderland

2010-07-15T13:24:00.000-07:00

Walk through any one of old Dubrovnik's three city gates, and you'll find a litter tray for cigarette ends and chewing gum. Inside, the reason becomes apparent. Dubrovnik is the Bath of the Balkans: a pristine set-piece walled town where shop signage is written on removable banners and only one colour is allowed for doors - a classic dark green, which combines most agreeably with the town's yellow limestone bricks and terracotta roof tiles. Litter would be a wart on its face.

A spick-and-span city, then? In parts. The main street Placa, also known as the Stradun, is one of the world's noblest drags, and in season its polished marble pavements are thronged with visitors (and are treacherous after rain). The Croatian city's cash cow is tourism, and the centre is reminiscent of a smaller Venice. But like its neighbour on the opposite side of the Adriatic, it can also reveal a more intimate side.

Go beyond the 17th-century cathedral - where small boys use buttresses as goalposts - and there's an area of streets and steep alleys called Pustijerna, where medieval arches recall old Jerusalem, and where the only sounds you'll hear are the waves sluicing the city walls and people practising the piano. From here, you can gaze east over the stone city towards hulking Mount Srd - behind which lies Bosnia-Herzegovina - and along the coast, studded with cypress trees. It's a peaceful scene.

Slightly jarring then to read the following map legend at each of the city gates: "City map of dangers caused by the aggression to Dubrovnik by the Yugoslav army, Serbs and Montenegrans, 1991-92", and to find shrapnel in the baroque facade of St Saviour's Church. Even now, the number of visitors is not yet back to pre-war levels. But the city re-establishes itself more each year, attracting a new generation of mini-breakers, cultural tourists, yacht-bound island-hoppers and independent travellers who find that, in so many ways, Dubrovnik delivers.

Dubrovnik's hotels are improving: a Hilton is being built just outside the Pile Gate and will open later this year. This year the Dubrovnik Palace will reopen as a kind of mega-boutique hotel. Meanwhile, the Excelsior is a five-star modern block with swimming pool, spa and sauna, built to take full advantage of a west-facing view of Old Dubrovnik - it's worth trying for a sea view here, but if you can't get it, there's a terrace out front.

The Bellevue is the other side of old Dubrovnik and has a lift that takes guests through the rocks to the shingle beach below (one should not expect too much sand in the Dubrovnik region, but at least this helps keep the water clear). Another upmarket joint is the Pucic Palace. The only hotel in Old Dubrovnik, it sells town-house elegance. It's in a slapped-up 18th-century palace on one of the smart od Puca streets parallel to the Stradun. Accommodation is one of the most expensive facets of Dubrovnik - if you want to save, try the B&Bs which advertise to their largely German clientele with the word "Zimmer".

Best Wildlife Holidays In Europe

2010-07-15T13:16:00.000-07:00

Wild boar - Germany

Over the past couple of years, Germany's wild boar population surged so dramatically that the tusked beasts became something of a menace - invading buildings, destroying crops and occasionally even attacking people. Still, if you've not seen one, there's never been a better time, though they can be elusive. Hikers on a self-led walking trip through the romantic landscapes of Central Franconia, between the Main and Danube rivers have spotted them in the forests there, along with deer, buzzards and polecats.

Killer whales - Spain

Every summer, the fishermen of Tarifa in Andalucia have to compete with visiting killer whales for their catch. On the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society's new trip, you follow orcas as they hunt bluefin tuna in the Strait of Gibraltar. There's a very good chance of seeing them, as well as pilot whales and dolphins. When you're not assisting the cetacean experts, you can visit Roman sites or chill on the beach with the windsurf dudes.

Elk and beaver safari - Sweden

Sweden has the world's highest density of elk, and on this weekend adventure in the Bergslagen woods, your expert hosts guarantee sightings of the "kings of the forest" as you track them on foot, mimicking their call. Then, at dusk, you quietly canoe Lake Skarsjön, seeking beavers. It's back to basics: stay in a lakeside hut, bathe in the stream, chop campfire wood and forage for lingonberries for your wilderness dinner.

Amphibians and reptiles - Portugal

The mudflats and sandbanks of the Sado estuary, just south of Lisbon, swarm with all manner of slimy and cold-blooded inhabitants. From the plodding Spanish terrapin, to spiny-footed lizards, marbled newts, west Iberian painted frogs and the Montpellier snake there's plenty to keep an eye out for; voles, otters, bats, polecats and dolphins thrive here too, and it's one of the best bird-watching spots in Portugal.

Chasing butterflies - Croatia

Croatia is the naturalists' latest darling, and this new group tour, run with the charity Butterfly Conservation, reveals why. Staying in comfortable hotels, see exquisite creatures around the turquoise lakes and waterfalls of Plitvice, the limestone gorges of Paklenica, and the seldom-visited Velebit Mountains, with dramatic coastal scenery en route. The names flutter off the tongue: cleopatra, little tiger blue, southern festoon and the great sooty satyr.

Bike with bison - Poland

Track Europe's last few remaining bison in northeastern Poland on a seven-night cycling tour. Three nights are spent in Bialowieza Forest - a remnant of the vast, primeval tree masses that once cloaked the continent - where bison roam freely. There is a bison reserve and the animal trail includes a punt in the remote Narew Marshlands, known as the Polish Amazon, home to beaver, otter, elk and martens.

Gawp at puffins - Iceland

Iceland is seabird central. Drive the Snaefellsnes Peninsula as part of a self-guided tour: it has huge colonies of birds nesting on the cliffs either side of the peninsula, with puffins a highlight. You'll also take in Lake Myvatn, where there are whooper swans, geese and breeding ducks, and you can whale-spot en route, as well as visit Namaskaro's steam vents, the Arctic char-laden Laxa River and Dimmu Borgir with its weird and wonderful lava formations.

Company of wolves - Spain

Most of Spain's 3,000 wolves prowl the obscure Sierra de Culebra, and wildlife guru Julian Sykes' tours have all yielded sightings. You stay in a rustic hotel run by a wolf enthusiast who gets updates on their location from rangers. At dawn and dusk you seek our lupine friends; in between you'll spot great bustards, plus wild boar, fox and deer (all the wolves' prey).

Net turtles - The Azores

Five of the world's seven sea turtle species have been found in the Azores. On this inspiring small-group expedition, you'll board a research boat in the Atlantic, net loggerheads and others, then measure, tag and release them like a proper scientist (with whom you stay, in their comfy Horta townhouse). You'll track the animals' migration patterns and contribute to their conservation. Whale and dolphin observation is a big part of the trip, too.

Spot marmots - Switzerland

Marmots spend summer nibbling grass in open meadows. One keeps watch, whistling loudly when eagles pass, sending the group scampering for their dens. It's fun to watch in the mountainous Swiss National Park, home too to chamois, elk and vipers.

Islands In Croatia

2010-07-15T12:45:00.000-07:00

With over a thousand islands, islets and reefs, of which 66 are inhabited, the Croatian islands offer everything from nudist beaches to windsurfing, and organic wines to all-night dance parties. You can bed down in a boutique hotel or a back-to-basics cottage (no running water, no mains electricity), depending on your pain threshold. It's also outside the eurozone so your holiday cash will go a bit further.

Best for local food and vine - Vis

A Yugoslav military naval base and no-go zone for foreigners until 1989, Vis was invaded by yachties the moment the last submarine left. Now a hippy-chic summer hideaway, its informal konobe (taverns) serve Dalmatian seafood dishes. At Mola Trovna, Senko Karuza takes guests on fishing trips then shows you how to clean and cook your catch. Don't miss Vis's organic wines - white Vugava and red Mali Plavac - and rogacica, a potent tipple made from carob, which grows in abundance here.

Best for name dropping - Hvar

Centring on Venetian-era Hvar Town, Croatia's most fashionable island destination warrants exploring beyond its capital's 16th-century fortifications. Leave the design hotels and chichi cocktail bars behind to hike or mountain bike through a rugged landscape of silvery-purple lavender fields and the hillside vineyards that produce velvety red Plavac. Or dodge the celebrity-spotters on the palm-lined seafront promenade to take a sea-kayaking trip round the nearby Pakleni islets.

Best for back to basics - Kornati archipelago
The Kornati archipelago is a scattering of 89 islands, islets and reefs, which has been designated a national park. There's no fresh water here, and the islands are rocky and arid. In the past, their scanty vegetation was used for summer grazing, and shepherds and fishermen from Murter built stone cottages to use as seasonal accommodation. With a nod to sustainable tourism, several of these dwellings are now available to rent for a no-frills, environmentally friendly holiday.

Best for watersports - Brac
Zlatni Rat, on Brac's south coast, is Croatia's most photographed beach, and its top windsurfing spot. The nearby fishing village of Bol may have succumbed to multi-lingual menus and a miniature-train, but it remains a haven for water sports enthusiasts. Besides windsurfing, Zlatni Rat offers scuba diving, sea kayaking, parasailing, water skiing, jet skiing and wakeboarding. For the uninitiated, pedal boats provide a taster.

Best for unspoilt nature - Mljet
Through the centuries, Mljet remained something of a backwater, its dense pine forests encroaching on its pair of interconnected emerald-green saltwater lakes. In fact, little on record ever happened here, but for the arrival (1151) and departure (1345) of a group of Italian Benedictine monks who built an Apulian-Romanesque monastery on an islet on the larger of the two lakes, and the introduction of a family of Indian mongooses (1910) intended to wipe out Mljet's snake population (which they did). While the western, forested part of Mljet is a now a national park, the eastern coast hosts a lovely sand beach, Saplunara.

Best for nudists - Rab
Many pinpoint the birth of nudism in Croatia to summer 1936, when Rab's local authorities granted King Edward VIII and Mrs Simpson permission to swim naked at Kandarola beach. But it's not just about no-knickers. Rab Town is a charming huddle of medieval stone buildings, grouped on a fortified peninsular, lined with four elegant Romanesque church bell-towers. And on Rab's northern tip, Lopar peninsular hosts some of Croatia's best sand beaches (several textile-option).

Best for learning to sail - Murter
Murter almost touches the mainland, to which it is joined by a 12m drawbridge. Its proximity to the scattered islets and reefs of Kornati National Park makes it a favourite base for yachters. Each summer, the Adriatic Nautical Academy (ANA) runs a sailing school here in Jezera. Courses at various levels last seven days and include early morning wake-up, plenty of sailing practice, and afternoon theory lessons (instruction in English).

Best beach parties - Pag
Long renowned for its delicious Paski sir (Pag cheese), made from sheep's milk, Pag is now also Croatia's top spot for summer beach clubs. As of 2007, Zrce beach, near Novalja, is the only place in the country where bars and clubs are granted 24-hour licences. Long summer days end with after-beach-parties at Kalypso, Papaya and Aquarius, transforming into full-on dance clubs after dark, hosting international DJs such as Joe Montana, Tiesto and Armand van Helden.

Best for extreme isolation - Palagruza
Rising up in the middle of the Adriatic Sea, roughly halfway between Italy and Croatia, you'll find wild little Palagruza. There are no buildings, but for an elegant lighthouse dating back to 1875, perched on the island's highest point. From here, footpaths zig-zag down to two fine pebble beaches, Stara Vlaka and Veli Zal, with shallow water ideal for kids.

Best day trip from the mainland - Lopud
Tiny, car-free Lopud makes a peaceful escape from touristy Dubrovnik. Its sole settlement (population 269) is built around a gently curving bay, while a 15-minute trek across the island through dense, herb-scented vegetation brings you to the lovely Sunj sandy beach. You can reach Lopud from Dubrovnik by ferry in 50 minutes or by the summer-only speedboat in 30 minutes. And, come sunset, if you don't feel like returning to city life, there are several small, family-run hotels, where you might chance upon a spare room.

Guide To Dakar

2010-07-15T12:39:00.000-07:00

The beauty of Dakar, a city that sprawls across the Cap-Vert peninsula in a jumble of villages and former French colonial towns, comes not from its architecture, but from its people and the atmosphere they create. Hot, dusty and derelict streets are brought to life by locals parading in an explosion of brightly-coloured fabrics and sharply-tailored suits. Roads are often choked with traffic, but there's a buzz in the constant chatter and giggling of workers on the buses and in the sept places taxis. In the markets and the Medina, there's a riot of noise and smells. And in the air, there's a constant soundtrack of raucous jazzed-up Senegalese pop.

It can be an exhausting place to negotiate, but to escape the hustle and bustle for, say, the sedate confines of Club Med in the opulent suburb of Les Almadies 5km from the city centre, is to miss the point – and the warmth of the place.

Steer clear of the pricey hotels around the buzzing place d'Independence, where the noise is constant and sleeping is seen as indulgent. Instead, within easy reach by bus or taxi, Hotel du Phare is located down a quiet, sandy side street in the coast-hugging district of Les Mamelles. The pastel painted walls, comfy couches and book-lined shelves lend a homely atmosphere, and the excellent food fuses West African and Mediterranean flavours – poulet aigre doux, for example, is tender spiced chicken in a sweet, tangy sauce.

To get to grips with the scale of the place, head up Les Mamelles (breasts in French), two hills that overlook the otherwise flat Cap-Vert peninsula. From here you can see the Atlantic, the city sprawl and the controversial bronze statue Le Renaissance Afriquaine. Larger than the Statue of Liberty and still in the process of being built, it features a man, woman and child pointing, in vaguely communist style, to the horizon; a symbol of renewed African hope. Designed and built in 2009, the statue itself is impressive, even if the £17m spent by President Wade's government has come under scrutiny. Religious groups recently complained that the skirt of the female figure is too short. A further £6.7m is being spent lengthening the offending item of clothing. It should be finished and officially opened by the middle of this year.

Top 10 Beaches In Turkey

2010-07-15T12:33:00.000-07:00

If a summer holiday in Turkey makes you think of crowded beaches and heaving resorts, think again. Scattered among the mountainous peninsulas lie hidden arcs of sand, pretty shingle bays and unspoilt villages with simple restaurants opening out on to the beach. Most can only be reached by car or boat, meaning they are rarely busy, even in the height of summer.

Ovabuku - Tucked away on the Datca peninsula, Ovabuku is the prettiest in a chain of three bays, along with Hayitbuku and Kizilbuk. The beach is a relatively small stretch of creamy shingle, backed by a cluster of small restaurants and pensions, while the countryside around has a lush beauty; pine forests mixed with oak, myrtle and carob trees. It's not the beach itself that makes this such a fantastic find, it's the whole package: peace, authenticity and a real sense of escape.

Butterfly Valley - Spectacularly situated between two towering cliffs, Butterfly valley stretches out in a v-shape, ending in a sweep of pristine beach. Most visitors access the beach by boat from Olu Deniz or Fethiye, but for adventurous trekkers there is a rocky path that leads down from the road (around 40 mins down and an hour back up). There is no electricity, roads or buildings in the valley but camping is allowed and there are shelters in the trees. Alternatively, stay in the peaceful hamlet of Faralya and gaze down to the beach, hundreds of feet below.

Amos - Hidden between the resorts of Turunc and Kumlubuk on the Bozburun peninsula, Amos is a small cove tucked between two headlands. It's a bit rough and ready and the pebbles are scattered with ancient wooden loungers, but there is an unspoilt beauty that makes a stark contrast to the bling and bright lights of Marmaris, which lies across the bay. Amos was once a sizeable Roman settlement and there are some remains, including a small amphitheatre with breathtaking views. Better still, there's an excellent restaurant right on the beach, serving up fresh fish and meze.

Gemiler - It's hard to believe that Gemiler lies just a short way away from the heavily overpopulated Olu Deniz beach; it's rarely crowded and reached by boat or bus ride from Hisaronu, through the fertile Kaya valley, past tobacco and wheat fields and out to the very tip of the Fethiye peninsula. Surrounded by pine and olive trees, the beach looks across to St Nicholas Island, and there are a couple of good restaurants serving up fresh meze and cold Efes beers.

Cirali - Olympos beach, famed for its treehouse accommodation, has been on the backpacker trail for years, but neighbouring Cirali has managed to avoid the same level of development. The 3km sweep of beach is a protected area, thanks to the loggerhead turtles who clamber out of the sea to nest on the sand. Flanked by two huge mountains, the whole area around Cirali is dramatically beautiful, while the village behind offers simple restaurants and pensions, with a pleasingly hippyish atmosphere.

Kaputas - On the breathtaking road between Kalkan and Kas, the beach at Kaputas is formed by a gorge that opens out into a stretch of sand. The long flight of steps down from the road means there are no facilities on the beach, so take water and a parasol if you're planning to stay a while. It's a popular beach with locals, which gives it a very different feel to many of Turkey's more accessible stretches of coastline. Dolmuses (minibuses) between Kalkan and Kas stop off at Patara, and if you go on a windy day there are fabulous waves.

Hisaronu Bay - Not to be confused with the neon-lit nightmare resort above Olu Deniz, Hisaronu Bay has two small beaches that look out towards the Datca peninsula. Behind the beach lies the kind of resort that feels like Turkey 20 years ago; a clutch of restaurants and simple pensions dotted along quiet country lanes. The beaches are popular with windsurfers as there's a permanent breeze and if you fancy a change of scene, the equally unspoilt beaches at Selimiye and Orhaniye are a short dolmus-ride away.

Ortakent - Lying mid-way along the Bodrum peninsula, Ortakent is not exactly a secret, but its delightful beach, backed by market gardens and the agreeable quiet bustle of a rural village. Ortakent is a great option for a family holiday with older kids in tow, as the beach offers a range of watersports, from wake-boarding to kayaking and sailing. The Bodrum peninsula is scattered with picturesque coves and bays and a self-hire boat is the ideal way to find your very own hidden beach.

Gunluklu - Avoid Gunluklu on the weekends, as locals flock to this stretch of beach, to camp and watch the sunset over campfires and barbecues. On weekdays, however, it remains peaceful – hidden down a long track from the Fethiye-Gocek road, surrounded by pine forests and sweet gum trees. Gunluklu is an ideal option if you want a feeling of total escape, with the option of a bit of a bustle if you feel like a night out or shopping spree – Fethiye is just a short drive away.

Kabak - If you're staying in Faralya but the trek down (or boat trip across) to the beach at Butterfly Valley seems a little like hard work, head instead for Kabak – a totally unspoilt stretch of shingle beach that is surrounded on three sides by lush pine forest. There is nothing on the beach, and only a few secluded campsites behind it; if you're looking for a back-to-basics beach experience this is the perfect spot. Visit at night and the lights of Olu Deniz twinkle across the bay; 15 minutes' drive and a whole world away.

Barcelona - Favourite Places In Favourite City

2010-07-15T12:13:00.000-07:00

Barcelona is a sexy, seductive city. Like all good courtesans, it will yield up its most treasured secrets to those who can explore beyond the superficial hedonistic image it has acquired since its transformation to celebrate the 1992 Olympic games. Yes, there are phalanxes of drunken hen and stag parties who conga up and down Las Ramblas and in and out of Antoni Gaudí's glorious buildings, but look beyond and you will understand a little of the Catalans' fierce desire to preserve their first city's cultural status. I can't possibly do my favourite European city justice, but here are a few recommendations.

I rarely stay in the same hotel. When I was writing my novel, I chose an ultra-modern cheap and chic quirky hotel called Gat Raval, which manages to flawlessly integrate lime green decor, neon-lit reception areas and minimalist contemporary furniture into two townhouses in the seedy narrow streets of El Raval, the city's old brothel district and favoured stamping ground for the likes of Luis Buñuel, Salvador Dali and Federico García Lorca when they lived and worked there. It has a magnificent rooftop suite with great views of the city. The Banys Orientals is its only rival – more expensive but one of the great boutique hotels of the world.

Café de L'Acadèmia is the best lunchtime restaurant in Europe and has a simple three-course daily table d'hôte lunch menu, including a mini carafe of wine, for about a tenner – a throwback to a pre-Civil War law requiring restaurants to make a good cheap local midday meal for factory workers. I have never eaten the same meal there – it's always fresh Catalan food – and I love the counter area as much as the outside tables that sprawl across Plaça Sant Just towards a tiny medieval church. It's about two minutes' walk from the ancient Ajuntament, the magnificent City Hall in Plaça de Sant Jaume where Catalans are still battling to peacefully wrench their state from Castilian political and economic control.