aquarium supplies

Oliver Knott / Naturaquarien

2010-09-27T08:27:00.001-07:00

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0Jbzq5wS3g&feature=related

Tips and tricks for handling plants in the aquarium, Tropica Aquarium Plants

2010-09-27T08:26:00.001-07:00

How to handle the plants when planting them into the tank. Produced by Tropica Aquarium Plants in collaboration with aquadesigner Oliver Knott.

Find out more on...http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44cDbR2YvK4

PLANT CARE

2010-09-27T08:25:00.000-07:00

Live aquarium plants are a worthwhile addition to the fish tank. In a well planted tank, the fish have better colors, live a more natural life, and appear more comfortable than in an unplanted tank. Though they need more care than plastic replicas, live plants can be kept with few problems as long as there is plenty of light and no plant-eating or plant-destroying fish.

Find out more on.....http://fish.mongabay.com/plant_care.htm

MAKING YOUR OWN ACRYLIC AQUARIUM

2010-09-27T08:21:00.000-07:00

Making your own tank out of acrylic is a rewarding, cost saving, do-it-yourself project. It requires only a few essential tools and a good plastic supplier, the rest is up to you & your budget!
Step one is deciding what size tank to build, this will determine the thickness of acrylic sheet required. The height of the tank, not the gallons, determines the thickness required. You can have a huge shallow tank for a lot less money than a taller, smaller tank, something to consider if money is an issue. Expect to pay $60-70 for a 4ftx8ft sheet of 1/4" acrylic, $110-130 for 3/8" sheet, $150-180 for 1/2" sheet. You can see that the price goes up quickly as the acrylic gets thicker.
Since you're on an African Cichlid site, you'll be happy to know that most African Cichlids do just fine in tanks 24" deep or shallower. Anything over 2 feet tall requires acrylic thicker than 1/2", and we won't go into building tanks taller than 24".
Tanks up to 13" tall can be assembled with 1/4" acrylic, from 13"-19" w/ 3/8" acrylic, and tanks over 19" up to 24" require 1/2" acrylic.

Find out more on.... http://www.duboisi.com/diy/BNdiytank/bndiytank.htm

DIY Aquarium Lighting Canopy

2010-09-27T08:20:00.000-07:00

Making a DIY Lighting Canopy (For the beginner)
This How-To details a simple way to make a new lighting canopy for any rectangular fish tank. It is designed with simplicity in mind and easy enough for almost anyone with basic DIY skills to make.

Tools:

Hand Saw
Hammer
Screwdriver
Tape Measure
Pencil
Set Square
Electric drill
Selection of drill bits
Fine sanding sheets

Find out more on...http://www.fishlore.com/aquariummagazine/sept07/diyaquariumlightcanopy.htm

Materials:

9mm Plywood
25mm x 25mm soft wood batten
Piano Hinge
Wood Glue
25mm countersunk self-tapping screws
15mm Panel Pins
White Undercoat
White Gloss paint
Varnish
10mm wooden edging trim (If you want to trim the edges!)
Lighting unit(s)

Building your own tank

2010-09-27T08:13:00.000-07:00

Big tanks

This is a different story. There can be really big money to save here. I paid less for my 2200 litres (581G) tank than I would have to pay for a 900 (238G) litres tank in the shop. Where I live you don't get a quantity discount on litres of water. In fact the cost per litre increases with tank size. This is because big tanks are often custom designs where you hire handcrafters to build, modify or install the tank for you. That just makes the price explode. The market is also totally different. Generally the people who buy large tanks are in a very good situation economically. Price is not a problem. In fact many of them like the fact that it is very expensive, because it makes their systems exclusive. If you build on your own you do get a volume discount. You don't have to hire expensive labour and you can use better and much cheaper materials.

Find out more on...http://www.jonolavsakvarium.com/eng_diy/2200litre/2200litres.html

DIY stand & canopy 220gal tank

2010-09-27T08:09:00.000-07:00

I did the main frame with 2x4's used 14 total. main frame was glued and screwed together. some people have asked ,well how do you level your frame in a garage as they all drain towards the road. its quite easy. level your floor. and if every cut on your stand is right on and all is square then when you go to level your stand it should be off just as much as your floor. so when it is time to move it into your house it will be right on. perfectly level.

i did put in a floor and a top, just for myself, it is not needed but if you plan to use a sump i would at least install a floor, i did the deck as well just in case i decided to go with a acrylic tank in the future it was already there. (these two pieces of ply are NOT glued down. in case of water damage) i can remove and replace with ease. also don't forget to decide on what filtration you are going to use as you will want to be able to get it in your stand . so sections of the stand may have to be off from front to back. as mine are wider in the front then they are on the back. allowing for the doors to open wider for a sump.

http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92507

Cichlid Book

2010-09-27T07:47:00.003-07:00

Cichlids are a favorite subject to many people all over the world. Some find it an interesting hobby and some find it an easy way to become rich. For many it is a way to bring prosperity. The likes of Flowerhorn cichlids are supposed to be good and powerful Feng Shui symbols. Whatever be the purpose of the people, there are plenty of information about cichlids on the Internet as well as in many books and magazines. But the problem with most of them is that they are not of great quality. So you have to be very careful while selecting a book or magazine to learn more about cichlids.
It is always advisable to have some good exposure to cichlids, as it will definitely improve your skills. Even if you just want to know about cichlids, a quality cichlid book will help you. It is the traditional way to gather information. There may not be images in flash or other video clippings, but information from a book is supposed to be more reliable than any other source. Here are a few publications I would like to recommend, as I am personally familiar with it. The high quality photographs and quality descriptions add to the beauty of these selections. These are only a selection and are published by different publishers.

Cichlid Care

2010-09-27T07:47:00.001-07:00

There are hundreds of genera of African Cichlids. They differ from one another by appearance as well as their nature and behavior. In this article let us discuss about a few common genera of the African variety of the species. All these are fresh water fish. The main habitats of the African Cichlids are the Victoria, Tanganyika and Malawi lakes. But there are other places too, like the delta region of the River Niger where some varieties are found. These three great African lakes have a high alkaline content, having a pH value of 7.0 to 9.0 in their waters. It will be ideal for the water for the tanks where African Cichlids are to be raised to have a pH value over 8.00.
The Calvus group of the African Cichlids is found in three colors, the Black Calvus, the White Calvus and the Yellow Calvus. The Black Calvus requires very hard water with a pH value from 8.5 to 9. The ideal temperature is 25 to 26 degree Celsius. They are carnivorous and the natural habitat is rocky shallow waters. It grows up to 15 centimeters. It spawns in the substrate material. It is only slightly aggressive.
The White Calvus has an attractive slightly reddish color. The Yellow Calvus has black and white stripes along the breadth of the body. There are yellow spots all over the body. Though the color is different all the three, black, white and the yellow, are of the same in size, shape, food habits, water quality requirements, temperament and habitat. All of them spawn in the substrate soil. All of these are sleek in body shape which enables them to have passage through narrow edifices. That helps them to catch their prey.
The Red Fin has mild manners. The temperament is peaceful. It has a grayish black body. The females and the young ones have red fins. They are found naturally in the rocky shore line of the Lake Malawi. The water should be hard and have a temperature between 25 and 28 degree Celsius. The preferred pH value of water is 7.8 to 8.6. This variety prefers rocks for habitat. A grown up Red Fin will have a length of 20 cm. Being a big fish very big tanks are required by them. Perhaps, the Red Fin is the fastest growing cichlid. During courtship males are slightly aggressive. In eating habits they are carnivorous. The Red Fins are mouth brooders. The female carries the spawn in her mouth and release them after 12 to 18 days. The fry do not return to their mother afterwards.
The Mloto Ivory Head is another cichlid found naturally in Tanganyika Lake. This cichlid has an ivory white blaze from the lip to the dorsal fin. It is blue in color and a fully grown Ivory Head measures up to 15 cm. They are carnivorous and peaceful in temperament. Water temperature in the tank must be between 25 and 28 degree Celsius and pH value 7.8 to 8.6. The Mloto Ivory Heads are a maternal mouth brooder African cichlid.

Reef Aquarium Lightning

2010-09-23T07:31:00.001-07:00

Among the most important aspects of reef keeping is the lighting system. With lighting, we want to provide the proper photoperiod, intensity, and spectrum for good coral and anemone growth. Most applications use a 12-hour photoperiod. With multi-light systems, you can use timers to vary the intensity by varying the number of lights on at any one time. Usually, one bulb comes on for an hour, then all bulbs for 10 hours, and then one light is left on for an additional hour while the others are turned off. This is one method to duplicate the sun passing over the reef. On really elaborate systems, some hobbyists have even designed cloud cover patterns.

To provide proper light intensity, use 3-5 watts per gallon and use multiple fluorescent lights if the tank is 30" deep or less. Deeper tanks require more elaborate systems, usually involving hanging metal halide pendant lighting. Most books suggest one 175-watt metal halide per 4 square feet of surface area, hanging about 1 foot above the tank.

The development of electronic ballasts for Very High Output (VHO) fluorescent lighting, has allowed enthusiasts to design high wattage systems in small spaces. A 48" VHO bulb outputs 110W, versus 40W for a standard bulb. VHO systems require special end caps to withstand the higher heat emitted. Most of these tubes are available with internal reflectors to maximize intensity. Use bulbs with a CRI of 90-99 (CRI 100=sunlight), or color temperature of 5500-10,000K.

Most corals have light intensities at which they grow best. This is important to know when selecting bulbs and determining at what depth a certain coral should be placed. Most corals are a little forgiving as light intensity goes. It is important, though, not to "blind" new coral when placing them in the tank, as this can lead to light shock or bleaching of the zooxanthellae. Place new corals deeper in the tank than the optimum and provide some shading. Once acclimated, (generally about 2 weeks), raise them to the optimal level.

Choosing the right bulbs: Variety of bulbs to provide zooxanthellae with the proper wavelengths of light for photosynthesis, different bulbs have been developed to mimic sunlight filtered through different depths of water. As light penetrates water, different wavelengths with different "energies" will penetrate to varying depths. Red light (630-780 nm) penetrates to about 15 m, while blue light (420-490 nm) goes as deep as 250 m. So, it is not surprising that most zooxanthellae have evolved to absorb light best at 420 nm in the blue range. This has led to development of fluorescent bulbs that emit light primarily at this peak: Actinic 03-type bulbs. While you could use all actinic lighting on a reef, you may find the result disappointing. (Our eyes do not perceive blue light as very bright, and find yellow light more aesthetically pleasing.) Also recommended are "full spectrum" bulbs, "tuned" to produce light across the full spectrum, mimicking natural sunlight. These tubes show the true colors of corals and fish, and are pleasing to our eyes. Most reefs work best with a 1:1 ratio of actinic to full spectrum bulbs. Also available to hobbyists, are combination bulbs often called 50/50 or actinic white; these emit light across the full spectrum, with extra "actinic" phosphors for additional light at 420 nm. Most metal halides have adequate spectrums for reefs, though most hobbyists supplement with actinic 03-type bulbs to bring out corals' red and green fluorescence. Another effect of metal halide use, since they are a single point light source, is that we will get light defraction waves in the tank. While these waves are found in nature and are pleasant to the eye, they have not been shown to be essential to reef keeping.

The size and lighting choices that you make will have a big impact on the success of your reef. While this may appear confusing at first, make sure to take the time to research your options and then choose the ones that will allow your tank to thrive.

Oscar Cichlid

2010-09-20T11:48:00.000-07:00

The Oscar Cichlid, or otherwise known as "Oscar fish", have been one of the most favorite species of cichlids considered for petting because they are fun to keep and are friendly to their owners. They could easily recognize their owners and be aware of what is happening around them.
Enthusiasts planning to raise Oscar Cichlids should prepare a large tank, spacious enough to accommodate the immediate growth of this kind of fish. Oscars tend to grow an inch after its eight to tenth month. Expect them to reach about 10-12 inches on their first year. Gravel is the most recommended substrate for the tanks since they are abundant in the Oscar's natural environment.
However, be sure to make use the rounded kind since these types of fish are inclined to dig, and sharp gravel might harm them. Furthermore, there are observations that these fish do not prefer bright lights. Thus, this should also be considered in preparing their tanks.
Hobbyists who are obsessed with decorated tanks should think twice to raise Oscars since they tend to be disastrous pets, often rearranging their aquarium, moving rocks and decors around. These are normal Oscar behaviors. Let them do this for it increases their comfort zone on their surroundings.
Feeding can be an exciting experience since Oscars interact whenever they are fed. They show excitement, swimming eagerly around the tank when they know they will be fed. They eat insects and small crustaceans such as crickets, earthworms, mealworms and shrimps.
They might just think that their reflections are another fish trying to get in their territories. Oscars, like most cichlids, are territorial. They need to be accustomed to their tank mates for a while before they given in. That is the reason why in some cases, it is suggested that Oscars should be bred early with another type of fish for the former to be accustomed to it while growing.
Breeders should also take note that in most cases, it is hard to distinguish a male from a female Oscars. The only indication of a female Oscar is when it becomes pregnant and begins to be bulkier. They lay their eggs on a surface of a rock, and will rearrange their space to provide a suitable spawning area in their tanks. The eggs hatch after three days.

Reef Aquarium

2010-09-19T10:53:00.000-07:00

Saltwater Aquarium Plants

2010-09-19T08:16:00.001-07:00

Saltwater aquarium plants add color and interest to your marine tanks and form part of any well thought out marine tank. But that''s not all they do. Macroalgae and marine plants will also make the ecosystem in your tank healthier. Macroalgae are particularly beneficial as they provide a natural form of filtration in the saltwater tank.

Saltwater aquarium plants take in nutrients from the water in order to carry out their biological functions and growth. This action reduces the accumulation of toxic nitrates and phosphates and other impurities in the water. When you use plants in your marine tank the idea is to reproduce your fish and other organism''s natural habitat. A tank that contains saltwater aquarium plants is likely to be a healthy one.

Here are some examples of saltwater aquarium plants that you can choose for your marine tank:

Halimeda or cactus algae are hardy saltwater aquarium plants and won''t be fed on vigorously by most marine fish. It is also non-invasive so it won''t damage nearby corals or invertebrates. It does need good light to grow in however as well as enough calcium for growth. Halimeda are sensitive to high nitrate and phosphate levels and don''t like to be pruned.

Penicillus or "shaving brush" are saltwater aquarium plants that do a great job at absorbing excess nutrients like nitrates and phosphates from the water. They are usually not fed on by most fish and invertebrates except sea urchins. Plant the pencillus in the substrate and make sure the area is well-lit. If you add an iron supplement and trace elements regularly your pencillus should thrive. Pencillus has a hard calcium carbonate skeleton like halimeda an coralline algae and will do well across a range of conditions.

What about macroalgae? Macroalgae are saltwater aquarium plants that come in a variety of different shapes and sizes. They are to be found in a range of colors ? red, green, brown and blue. These saltwater aquarium plants are able to photosynthesize. This means they use a pigment called chlorophyll to make their own food for growth and other functions.

In general these saltwater aquarium plants get most of the nutrients they need from the water in the marine tank. These include nitrates and phosphates. This makes them good allies in keeping your tank clean. You will need moderate to strong light for the growth of macroalgae. The way to avoid macroalgae growing out of control is to control the environment in which it lives. This means the water chemistry and amount of available light.

So are there ''bad'' saltwater aquarium plants? Certain kinds of algae can become problematic in a marine tank.

Bubble algae is one of the most common pest saltwater aquarium plants. Bubble algae forms green bubbles on any hard surface, for example live rock. It can occur in masses of bubbles or single or in small groups of big bubbles. The bubbles might be smooth or rough. Bubble algae look nice, BUT they aren''t!

These saltwater aquarium plants grow fast and can take over your tank. Once you discover it the best thing to do is remove it and keep it under control. It can damage other plant species. You can usually remove it by hand. When you do, try not to break the bubbles as this might cause it to spread.

You can try to introduce certain types of fish like the Sohal Tang or Red Sea/Indian Ocean Sailfin Tang (Acanthurus sohal) to eat bubble algae. The best means of control, however, seems to be the "Emerald Crab". These crabs won''t damage your corals but will eat the bubble algae. It is a good idea to learn about other such interactions between saltwater aquarium plants and herbivores as they might save you time and trouble in the future.

The emerald crabs are a great idea for the reef aquarium where they won''t fight with other inhabitants. There are even coral farmers who use emerald crabs to control algae around their hard corals! So you can protect your saltwater aquarium plants by stocking some of these little helpers.

So what''s your next step? Now that you know a little bit about the good and the bad kinds of saltwater aquarium plants, it''s your job to make sure you learn more. Your local aquarist will be able to tell you more about which saltwater aquarium plants are most suitable for your tank, level of expertise and the other species you want to stock.

You can also do more research on the Word Wide Web, visit your local library or buy books on the subject. Don''t ever buy your saltwater aquarium plants on a whim because you like the way they look. Always make sure you know as much about their nutrient, environment and lighting needs as possible. That way you can avoid making mistakes that cost time and money or even threaten the health of your tank in the long term.

Do choose saltwater aquarium plants that you find attractive as this is part and parcel of keeping a marine tank but never let your desires cloud your common sense. Once you have all you plants set up you will be able to enjoy the animal plant interactions that are so much a part of the marine ecosystem. The purpose of any aquarium is to provide both the fish and you with hours of pleasure and enjoyment. A healthy tank is a happy tank so do take the time to do your research.

Saltwater aquarium plants are very beautiful to look at and interesting to grow so make sure that you take the time to enjoy the plants in your tank. Find out if it is possible to propagate any of these plants from, how to increase or decrease their growth and what nutrients they need to stay healthy. Never share plants between aquariums unless you know they are 100% disease free and always put the health of your tank at the top of your list of priorities! Have fun and enjoy your saltwater aquarium plants!

Substrate and Fertilization Introduction

2010-09-19T08:15:00.001-07:00

Plants need a balance of macro nutrients, (those they use the most of), and minor or trace nutrients, (which they use to a lesser degree).

Macronutrients: Nutrients used by plants in relatively large amounts. They are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), sulfur (S), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg) and potassium (K).

Micronutrients: Nutrients used by plants in small amounts. They are iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), copper (Cu), zinc (Zn), molybdenum (Mo), cobalt (Co), and boron (B).

The Substrate is the growing medium that the plants are rooted in. It is important to add a source of these nutrients to the substrate, particularly in a new aquarium that has no mulm or fish waste settled in it yet.

It is also advisable to use a medium such as porous gravel that will provide a good CEC and not compact together. CEC, (cation exchange capacity) is the ability of the medium to absorb cation ions, (minerals from fertilizers) and hold them making them accessible to the plants when the plants need them. Sand and coated gravel do not provide a good CEC. Good CEC mediums include porous gravel, clay litter, and clay soils.

Macro nutrients include nitrogen, oxygen, CO2, potassium, phosphorus, calcium. Minor elements include iron, Boron, zinc, manganese, and other trace minerals. Iron is an important element for many plants and is often added to the substrate with other minerals.

Laterite is a sediment soil that is formed in nature by decaying rocks which are high in iron and aluminum. There are a few aquarium products made of laterite, such as Duplarit, and First Layer. Other sources of iron are soils, clay litter, red pottery clay, and sphagnum peat.

Various substrate methods

Layered substrate with "sub" soil (soil low in organics), sphagnum peat, gravel, and trace element mix, as outlined by Steve Pushak
Pottery clay balls enhanced with fritted trace elements, as outlined by Steve Pushak, or commercial additives made for the aquarium
Clay gravel
Granular laterite, sphagnum peat, and gravel, my mix of choice.

Fail-safe beginner substrates:

Commercial products, laterite, clay gravel, clay based additives made for the aquarium

NPK What are those three numbers?

Nitrogen supplied by the fish, phosphates by the water supply and uneaten food, and potassium to a lesser degree in the water supply. NPK fertilizers should only be added if you have low or unreadable levels already. RO, distilled, and some bottled spring water will be low in NPK and mineral elements. Most tap water will have sufficient levels of P. Even some aquarium products contain NPK. An NPK fertilizer high in potassium, but low or 0 in nitrate and phosphate is has the least affect on algae. Check the numbers. Single digits are low, double digits are high. In a heavily planted tank with fast growing plants, and a small number of fish, it is possible to have consistent 0 readings of nitrate and phosphate creating a nitrogen and phosphate deficiency for the plants.

Target nutrient ranges

Nitrate (N03) 5 to 10ppm	Phosphate (PO4) 0.2ppm to 0.5ppm
Iron (Fe) 0.2 to 0.7ppm	Potassium (K) 20-30ppm

Types of fertilizers

tablets	spikes
balls	liquid

Sources of trace elements

Soils: Iron (Fe) other trace elements High CEC
Pottery clay: Iron, (Fe) High CEC
Clay litter: Iron, (Fe) High CEC
Vermiculite: trace amounts Iron, Potassium, Magnesium Very High CEC

Drawbacks of Soil substrates

When plants are removed, replanted, the soil mixture can come up with the plants and pollute the water. You are better off using a clay gravel if you anticipate moving and transplanting plants often.

The Following information is taken from "Something to Grow on", Cornell University. It is not written specifically for aquariums, but the information is very useful. I particularly like the information on CEC.

Ions Cation exchange capacity
(CEC) Quantifies the ability of media to provide a nutrient reserve for plant uptake. It is the sum of exchangeable cations, or positively charged ions, media can adsorb per unit weight or volume. It is usually measured in milligram equivalents per 100 g or 100 cm3 (meq/100 g or meq/100 cm3, respectively). A high CEC value characterizes media with a high nutrient-holding capacity that can retain nutrients for plant uptake between applications of fertilizer. Media characterized by a high CEC retains nutrients from leaching during irrigation. In addition, a high CEC provides a buffer from abrupt fluctuations in media salinity and pH. Important cations in the cation exchange complex in order of adsorption strength include calcium (Ca2+) > magnesium (Mg2+) > potassium (K+) > ammonium (NH4+), and sodium (Na+). Micronutrients which also are adsorbed to media particles include iron (Fe2+ and Fe3+), manganese (Mn2+), zinc (Zn2+), and copper (Cu2+). The cations bind loosely to negatively charged sites on media particles until they are released into the liquid phase of the media. Once they are released into the media solution, cations are absorbed by plant roots or exchanged for other cations held on the media particles. Anion exchange capacity Some media retains small quantities of anions, negatively charged ions, in addition to cations. However, anion exchange capacities are usually negligible, allowing anions such as nitrate (NO3-), chloride (Cl-), sulphate (SO4-), and phosphate (H2PO4-) to leach from the media.

Cation Exchange Capacities for various growing media amendments and selected media.

Material	Cation Exchange Capacity meq/100g
Perlite	1.5 - 3.5
Silt	3.0 - 7.0
Clays	22.0 - 63.0
Pine Bark	53.0
Vermiculite	82.0 - 150.0
Sphagnum Peat	100.0 - 180.0
Humus	200.0
Peat moss : vermiculite 1:1	141.0
Peat moss : sand 1:1	8.0
Peat moss : perlite 1:3	11.0
Peat moss : perlite 2:1	24.0

Sources: see Bunt, A.C. 1988, and Landis, T. D. 1990.

Sphagnum peat moss

Sphagnum peat moss, derived from the genus Sphagnum, contains at least 90% organic matter on a dry weight basis. In addition, this peat moss contains a minimum of 75% Sphagnum fiber, consisting of recognizable cells of leaves and stems. Approximately 25 species of Sphagnum exist in Alberta, Canada and 335 species are present throughout the world. Sphagnum fuscum is an important species bearing many desirable traits. Sphagnum grows in northern cool regions and is also located in peat bogs found in Washington, Maine, Minnesota, and Michigan. Many pores are present in the leaves of sphagnum; when used as growing media, as much as 93% of the water occupying this internal pore space is available for plant uptake (Peck, 1984). After draining, sphagnum peat can hold 59% water and 25% air by volume. Sphagnum is usually characterized by an acidic pH, low soluble salts content, structural integrity, and the ability to serve as a nutrient reserve (Landis, 1990). Although peat mosses are classified into four different groups, variation may exist within any one type of peat moss. Peats of the same classification often differ notably in quality, and even peats from the same bog taken from separate layers can possess different chemical and physical properties.

Sphagnum peat moss is classified as light or dark peat, based on its color. Light peats are characterized by a large amount of internal pore space, 15-40% of the pore space comprises aeration porosity Dark sphagnum peat does not display the elasticity of light peat and is usually not as long lasting.. Dark sphagnum peat moss maintains twice the cation exchange capacity of light peats, yet does not possess as much total or aeration porosity. An associated table lists general characteristics of sphagnum peat moss.

Inorganic media

Materials such as vermiculite, perlite, and sand represent the inorganic fraction often used in container media formulations. These materials generally increase the aeration porosity and drainage yet decrease the water-holding porosity of media. Inorganic components are usually inert materials characterized by a low cation exchange capacity.

Vermiculite

Vermiculite is a commonly used inorganic media component which is mined in the U.S. and Africa. This mineral, comprised of an aluminum/iron/magnesium/silicate mixture, is excavated as a material composed of thin layers. Processing includes heating the vermiculite to temperatures upwards of 1000ƒC, which converts water trapped between the layers of the material into steam. The production of steam results in a pressure that expands the material, increasing the volume of the pieces 15 to 20 times their original size. Vermiculite is sterile because of these high heating temperatures used during processing. Vermiculite is characterized by a high water-holding capacity as a result of its large surface area: volume ratio, a low bulk density, nearly neutral pH, and a high cation exchange capacity attributed to its platy structure. Because it compacts readily when combined with heavier materials, vermiculite is sometimes recommended more for propagating material than container media.

Vermiculite gradually releases nutrients for plant absorption; on average it contains 5-8% available potassium and 9-12% magnesium. This inorganic media component can adsorb phosphate--some of which remains in an available form for plant uptake--but cannot adsorb nitrate, chloride, or sulfate. Vermiculite can fix ammonium into a form that is not readily available for plant absorption. This fixed nitrogen is gradually transformed to nitrate by microorganisms, making it available for plant uptake.

Vermiculite is manufactured in four different grades, differentiated by particle size. Insulation grade vermiculite and that which is marketed for poultry litter (which has not been treated with water repellents) has been used with some success. Vermiculite which has been treated with water repellent, such as block fill should not be used as growing media. Because vermiculite tends to compact over time, it should be incorporated with other materials such as peat or perlite to maintain sufficient porosity. It should not be used in conjunction with sand or as the sole media component, because as the internal structure of vermiculite deteriorates, air porosity and drainage decreases (Landis, 1990).

The particle size of vermiculite influences the water-holding and aeration porosity of the material. Although grade classification is based upon particle size, each grade is represented by a range of particle sizes. Note that grades consisting of larger particle sizes have a higher aeration porosity and lower water-holding porosity than grades consisting of a smaller range of particle sizes. Properties of the four vermiculite grades are shown in an associated table.

Perlite

A mineral of volcanic derivation, perlite is a second inorganic component which may be used in formulating container mixes. This chemically inert material is extracted in New Zealand, the U.S., and other countries and is usually mined by scraping the earth's surface. The processing method includes a grinding and heat treatment (up to 1000‰C) which results in very lightweight, white sterile fragments. As the ore is heated, internal water escapes as steam, resulting in the expansion of the material.

Perlite has a very low cation exchange capacity, low water-holding capacity (19%), and neutral pH. The closed-cell composition of perlite contributes to its compaction resistance, enhances media drainage, and heightens the aeration porosity of peat-based media (Bilderback 1982). Because perlite contains only minute amounts of plant nutrients, liquid feeding is a practical mode of fertilization. Be aware of possible aluminum toxicity in acidic media (pH < 5).

The very low levels of fluoride perlite contains is not likely to pose plant health problems. Any soluble fluoride present in a media characterized by 6.0 < pH < 6.5 will precipitate out of the media with excess calcium from sources such as gypsum, limestone, or calcium nitrate.

Although perlite has several positive attributes, it also has drawbacks. Perlite consists of many fine fragments which, when dry, can lead to lung or eye irritation. In addition, because water clings to the surface of perlite, it may tend to float in the presence of water (Landis, 1990).

Perlite contains, on average, 47.5% oxygen, 33.8% silicon, 7.2% aluminum, 3.5% potassium, 3.4% sodium, 3.0% bound water, 0.6% iron and calcium, and 0.2% magnesium and trace elements (Perlite Institute, 1983). Although a uniform categorization of perlite does not exist, individual producers of this inorganic component assign grade levels. Perlite classifications for horticultural use are listed in an associated table. This inorganic media amendment is sometimes recommended for use only in propagation media because of its low bulk density and tendency to compact.

In comparison with sand, polystyrene, or pumice, perlite has the greatest inner total porosity. Coarse perlite is characterized by approximately 70% total porosity, 60% of which is aeration porosity. Perlite can retain two to four times its dry weight in water, which is much greater than that of sand and polystyrene, yet much less than the water-holding capacity of peat and vermiculite (Moore, 1987).

Sand

Sand has been used as an inorganic media component to add ballast to containers. Some sands contain calcium carbonate which may raise media pH undesirably. A rise in pH may lead to nutrient deficiencies, particularly of minor elements such as iron and boron. A few drops of dilute hydrochloric acid or strong vinegar may be added to sand to test for carbonates; if bubbling and fizzing result, carbonate is present as a result of carbon dioxide production. Sand used for container media should have a 6 < pH < 7. Sand maintains good drainage, a low water-holding capacity, and a high bulk density when used independently of other materials. Because of its shape and size, sand can obstruct pore spaces, decreasing drainage and aeration, instead of improving porosity. Various sand particle sizes have been recommended for container media use, including ranges of 2-3 mm or 0.05 - 0.5 mm (fine sand) in size (Landis, 1990). In addition, another recommendation suggests that 60% of the particles be within 0.25-1.0 mm range, and 97% be greater than 0.1 mm and less than 2 mm (Swanson, 1989). Uniformity coefficients assigned to sand mixtures signify the amount of sand which is within a certain size range; a coefficient < 4 is evidence of a homogeneous sand mixture (Swanson, 1989). If the correct grade of sand is used, the wet ability of the media is enhanced.

Calcined clays

When fired at high temperatures, some clays, fuel ash, and shales form stable compounds that possess low bulk densities and internal porosities of 40-50%. Though calcined clays alter the physical attributes of media in a positive way, they also decrease the level of water-soluble phosphorus in the mix. Because calcined clays are characterized by a high cation exchange capacity, fertilizer application rates may need to be modified if calcined aggregates are incorporated into the media mixes (Bunt, 1988).

Pumice

Pumice is produced as volcanic lava cools; escaping steam and gas contribute to its porous nature. This alumino-silicate material contains potassium, sodium, magnesium, calcium, and slight amounts of iron. Pumice can absorb K, Mg, P, and Ca from the soil solution and render it available for plant absorption later (Bunt, 1988).

Choosing a Planted Aquarium Substrate

2010-09-17T11:18:00.000-07:00

If you are going to keep live plants in your tank, substrate choice is very important. This is because many plant species draw their nutrients from the substrate. If you ask around, you will probably find that there are as many different substrates used as stars in the sky. Many people swear by certain combinations or layering methods with various substrates. This article cannot go into every single possibility nor can it discuss the substrate choices for every species of plant. Each plant has different requirements and it is important that you know these requirements before setting up your aquarium.

What this article will do is point you in the direction of some common substrate aspects so you have a place to begin. You can then either stick with what works or experiment with your own combinations.

It should first be pointed out that not all plants require you to think about your substrate in great detail. You can successfully have a low-light tank without having to take the substrate into consideration. This is because many of the plants that survive in low light (such as Java Fern and Java Moss) are actually attached to the décor and not rooted in the substrate. Also, some plants could care less what substrate they are planted in because they obtain very little nutrition from their roots. However, this article will assume you are using plants that do extract their nutrients via their root system.

Price

The cost of the substrate is an important factor in your selection, especially if you have a large aquarium (the cost can add up fast). However, you will get what you pay for. You can choose to use gravel or some other cheap alternative, but many serious plant aquarists use substrates specifically formulated for plant growth. Examples include Fluorite and Eco-Complete. These products will provide your plants with a constant supply of iron, a very important nutrient in their growth. The main drawback to these products, however, is their expense. However, many people will tell you that the price is worth it.

Cheap substitutes such as kitty litter, dirt, or potting soil are not recommended for aquarium use. Some people do use these products with success, but more often than not, they lead to disaster. The first problem is that there is no uniformity to these products so you do not know if the substrate you put in last year is the same as this year. Secondly, they may contain harmful chemicals that can make your aquarium toxic. Lastly, these products can create a mess in your aquarium if a plant gets uprooted, for example.

One way you can cut costs is to mix substrates. For instance, you can provide a layer of the expensive stuff and then put layers of sand or gravel on top of it.

Particle Size

The particle size of your substrate is very important. It cannot be too small or the substrate will compact and the small roots will not be able to grow properly. It cannot be too large or a great deal of debris will be trapped inside it.

Gravel can be used as a substrate, but it should be the finer grained gravel (2-3 mm particle size) and you will need to fertilize it (typically with root tabs that you push into the substrate near a plant’s roots) since the gravel itself will not provide any nutrients. Also, a layer of peat or Laterite under the gravel is advisable to provide some nutrients. However, be careful not to disturb the top gravel layer as the bottom layer products can cause algae problems if leached into the water column.

Reactivity to Water

It is important for most plants that your substrate be inert. This is because most will thrive in a neutral environment. Therefore, substrates such as crushed coral or substrates that contain shells should be avoided. If you are in doubt then take some of your substrate and pour hydrochloric acid over it; if it bubbles or fizzes, it is not inert.

Aesthetic Qualities

The same principles apply to a planted tank as to a non-planted one. Darker substrates will make the plant colors stand out while lighter substrates will tend to wash the colors out. Keep this in mind when making your selection.

Anchors Well

It is important that your substrate remains anchored to the bottom of the tank and is able to hold your plants in place. You do not want your plants to be floating up to the surface (unless this is your intention) nor do you want your substrate to be floating around your tank. If you do choose a substrate that does not remain at the bottom of your tank, you can put a layer of gravel or sand on top to keep it anchored down.

Depth

The depth of your substrate is important as it will dictate how much room your plants’ roots have to grow. Typically, you want to slope your gravel or build terraces with deeper substrate in the rear (5” or so) and shallower substrate in the front (3” or so). This not only provides the illusion of depth in your aquarium, but it also allows you to accommodate a wide range of plant sizes.

Conclusion

There are literally hundreds of choices that you can use for your planted aquarium’s substrate. This article is meant to provide a general introduction that will enable you to jump into your own experimentation. Using the points addressed in this article, try various combinations and just see what works best. Also, remember to carefully research your specific plants so you know where they get their nutrients from.

As a final note, with most substrates (especially the ones specifically formulated for plant growth) it is important that you rinse them before adding them to your aquarium. They can contain a large amount of dust and you do not want to introduce this mess to your tank.

Save a few dollars on Teklights

2010-09-17T10:58:00.001-07:00

I accidentally stumbled across a way to save a few bucks in the lighting department, for those interested in setting up a new tank, or upgrading the lighting on their existing setup. Here’s how it went.

I recently received my 4x54W Teklight. Small problem - It only had one plug! Truth is, I ordered it from a hydroponics company assuming it was the same one you get from the aquarium companies. But alas, it was not. I should have known something was different; it was almost $100 less expensive where I ordered it from. It DOES have two separate ballasts and two separate switches to turn the two separate banks of lights on and off independently - but MANUALLY. Now anyone who knows me knows that this just will not do!

Upon inspection, it is obvious that Sunlight Supply uses the same housing for their hydroponics and aquarium versions, as there is a plug over what would have been the second cord grommet:

My solution to this problem

Add a second cord of course!
I opened up the fixture to take a look inside and what I found was that on this particular version, they actually spliced the power cord to that it powers BOTH ballasts. It would be easy enough for me to add the second cord, and un-splice so that each ballast received power from it's own cord.

I started by making a hole in the plug:

I actually had a black appliance extension cord (rated for a load greater than BOTH banks of lights) that I was not using - so OFF WITH ITS HEAD!

I fed the cord through the hole I made, and grounded it first:

Then I made all of the connections so that each ballast, and in turn each bank of lights was powered by its own cord:

I put a zip-tie around the new cord INSIDE the fixture, close to the "plug" in the housing that I drilled so the cord could not slip back through the hole, and closed everything up.

I tested everything out and it works GREAT. I actually had the wire connectors and extension cord lying around, so the project cost me NOTHING but about 30 minutes of my time – can’t beat that!

The Drop Checker

2010-09-17T10:56:00.000-07:00

In my opinion the drop checker is one of the hottest and most misunderstood items around for the planted aquarium. This simplistic little device can give you the most accurate CO₂ readings possible. However I’ve read quite a few posts on forums where this device seems to be held in some sort of mystical reverence. I hope to shed some light on this little device. First perhaps some background information to help us along.

How a drop checker works

A drop checker is basically a reservoir that holds an indicator solution (4 degree KH standard and a pH indicator, but more on that later), and an air space that separates the aquarium water from coming into contact with the indicator solution.
When CO₂ is injected, and the aquarium water contains more CO₂ than the indicator solution, the injected CO₂ will outgas from the aquarium water into the airspace inside the drop checker. The CO₂ in the air space in the drop checker will then be absorbed into an indicator solution inside the drop checker. That absorption of CO₂ into the indicator solution will then lower the pH of the KH standard, which in turn will change the color of the pH indicator.
When CO₂ is NOT injected into the aquarium, and the indicator solution contains more CO₂ than the aquarium water, the CO₂ will outgas from the indicator solution into the airspace inside the drop checker. From the airspace inside the drop checker the CO₂ will get reabsorbed into the aquarium water. The out gassing of CO₂ from the indicator solution inside the drop checker will raise the pH of the solution which will change the color of the pH indicator.


When adding CO₂	When not adding CO₂

Why a drop checker works

CO₂ is a gas that goes into, and comes out of solution fairly easily and likes to reach a point of equilibrium (e.g. in a sealed bottle, the CO₂ dissolved in a liquid will eventually be equal to the “air” space above the liquid). A drop checker provides an environment for CO₂ to seek equilibrium and move in and out of solution inside the aquarium while providing a visual cue to its movement and concentration via the drop checker’s indicator solution.

What is pH?

pH is a logarithmic measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution. Solutions with a pH of less than 7 are acidic, pHs greater than 7 are alkaline, and a pH of 7 is considered neutral. When we say logarithmic it means that a solution with a pH of 5 is 10 times more acidic than a solution with a pH of 6, and that a solution with a pH of 9 is 10 times more alkaline than a solution with a pH of 8.

What is KH?

Carbonate Hardness (KH) refers to only the bicarbonate, and carbonate anions (-charge); it does not measure the sulfates and other anions.
Carbonate Hardness is a confusing term because it does not refer to hardness, but rather to the alkalinity (the ability of a solution to resist a pH change with an addition of an acid.) from the carbonates and bicarbonates. Other anions (such as hydroxide, borates, silicates, and phosphates) can contribute to the alkalinity. For the aquarium hobbyist KH is usually measured in degrees (dKH) or ppm (dKH multiplied by 17.86)

What is a KH standard?

For our purposes a KH standard is a solution with a known KH, and no other buffers other than carbonate and bicarbonates. A KH standard can either be purchased over the internet, or you can make your own with distilled water and baking soda.

What is a pH Indicator?

A pH indicator is a chemical compound that is added in small amounts to a solution so that the pH of the solution can be determined visually through a color change. Probably the most common would be Bromothymol blue which happens to be the indicator used in Aquarium Pharmaceuticals standard pH test.

What does this have to do with the CO₂ in my aquarium?

“In the beginning….” hobbyists calculated CO₂ through a fixed relationship between pH, KH, and dissolved CO₂. If you were to Google CO₂ chart, you will be rewarded with numerous examples of the chart on the internet to show this relationship.
There is also a formula that can be used:

CO₂ (in ppm) = 3 * KH * 10( 7-pH )

Where KH is the Carbonate Hardness measured in degrees. The charts and the formula will only work if your water is buffered only with Carbonates. If your water supply has other sources of alkalinity such as high phosphates, or if you use products which are high in phosphates (like phosphate plant fertilizers, pH-up or pH-down, which have phosphate buffers), forget it, you will not get a correct reading.

OK, so now what?

Enter the humble drop checker. The first time I ever saw one of these was in an ADA catalog. I thought “Hey look it’s an aquarium mood ring!”. When used according to the manufacturer’s directions, which uses aquarium water, and a couple drops of reagent (a pH indicator) to make up the indicator solution, the drop checker might give you an idea of how much CO₂ is in your aquarium. I say might because the indicator solutions reading will depend on what you have dissolved in your water (remember my phosphates comment above?).

However, because of the separation of the aquarium water and the indicator solution you can eliminate the interference of the buffers I mentioned earlier. If you were to use a known KH reference solution made with distilled water and Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda) instead of using aquarium water in the indicator solution, you can eliminate any outside buffer interference.
NOTE: Now you can check the color in your drop checker against your test kit card to get a pH reading, check that against a CO₂ chart and know pretty precisely how much CO₂ you have in your aquarium. Coincidentally, it does not have to be a KH 4 solution, but KH of 4 does seem to have the nice transition from Blue (low CO₂, high pH), Green (good CO₂, pH of 6.6), yellow (too much CO₂, low pH).

Will a Drop Checker always be so accurate?

As of the writing of this article, there are only 2 times I can think of when a drop checker will not be accurate. The first is if you using misting in your tank, and\or un-dissolved CO₂ bubbles get caught in your drop checker, you will get a false reading. The second (and less likely, but should be mentioned) would be if the solution became contaminated with aquarium water. This can happen with aggressive, or fast swimming fish who stray.

Making a KH standard

By using approximately .98 grams of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) for each quart of distilled water, you can make your own KH standard. (Please note: this is not exact, but close enough since there are no other buffers). If your KH test is a titration test (count the number of drops till a color change), you can increase the water sample X times to increase the accuracy.
e.g. I use 20 ml instead of 5 ml in my KH test and now my test kit is accurate to .25 degrees instead of a 1 degree.

Drop Checker Tips

Drop checks are not like instant read thermometers, they need to be in place for some time in order for the process to work. It takes time for the CO₂ to outgas from the aquarium into the drop checker and affect the indicator solution.
To get the best idea on the actual reading of the drop checker indicator solution the color should be checked against a white background. With a glass ADA style drop checker I place my Mag Float magnetic glass cleaner behind it.
Be sure to place your drop checker somewhere so that is not in the direct path of your CO₂ enriched water. I had mine on the side of my tank, directly in the outflow of my inline CO₂ reactor, and getting false readings which made me lower my CO₂ levels, and caused some algae problems.

planted tanks

2010-09-16T06:25:00.000-07:00

Buying and Installing an Aquarium Heater

2010-09-16T06:19:00.001-07:00

Heaters are mandatory on tropical fish tanks unless you happen to live in the tropics. Except for a few notable exceptions (Goldfish, Koi, White Cloud Mountain Minnows, Lemon Barbs, Peppered Catfish, and a handful of others, which prefer cooler water), the majority of tropical fish prefer temperatures of at least 74 degrees and preferably a little higher.
Although hardy in most other respects, Livebearers such as Mollys, Platys and Guppys, really don't tolerate water much cooler than 77-78 degrees. Mollys and Platys in particular actually thrive in 80-82 degree water. Many disease and parasite problems common to Mollys can be eliminated simply by raising the water temperature to about 80-82 degrees. Some other fish that prefer water in the 80-82 degree range would include Betta splendens (Siamese fighting fish), Trichogaster leeri (Pearl Gouramis), Pterophyllum scalare (Angelfish), Epaizeorthynchus (Labeo) bicolor (Red-tailed Black Shark), Hemigrammus rhodostomus (Rummy-nosed Tetra), Metynnis argenteus (Silver Dollar), and Botia macracanthus (Clown Loach).
It is also important to remember that whatever temperature you choose, it should not fluctuate by much over 24 hours. If your aquarium room is warm by day and cool (or cold) by night, a smaller fish tank can experience wide temperature swings of 6 to 8 (or more!) degrees from the hottest part of the day to the coolest part (usually early morning). Although these temperature swings may remain within the limits of recommended temperatures for the fish, this can be very stressful to some tropical fish, and may account for some otherwise unexplainable mysterious fish deaths. It is preferable to not allow temperatures in a tank to vary by more than 1 or 2 degrees over a 24 hour period. Thus, if your room in which your aquarium resides is warm by day and your tank temperature would normally run, say, 78 degrees by late afternoon, then a heater should be used to maintain (at least) that temperature during the entire 24 hour cycle, including the coolest part of the night.
There are some important differences between brands and models of heaters. Almost every heater includes a little neon indicator light to show when it is working. The glass tube that is the main body of a heater is constructed of borosilicate glass, which resists heating and cooling without cracking better than ordinary glass. Cheaper low priced heaters generally use thinner glass walls in the tube. This makes them more fragile than heaters with thicker glass walls.
The electrical circuitry inside the heater is usually controlled by a bimetallic thermostat with a pair of electrical contacts mounted on the metal strips. Quality of these contacts is very important. Good heaters use German coin silver for their contacts. Silver contacts tend not to stick together, and make excellent and reliable electrical contacts. If you can find them, gold contacts are the best, but such heaters would be very expensive. Cheaper heaters may use unknown metals that may not function as reliably. To generate heat, all heaters use some arrangement of nichrome wire through which electricity is passed. The wire warms and the heat is transferred to the glass tube, and from there to the water. Better heaters use sturdier wire for longer lasting life.
Whichever heater you choose, it is wise to mount it close to fast flowing water (beside the filter outlet is a good choice), so water is constantly circulated over the heater. Some heaters come with little rubber or plastic suction cup devices to firmly secure the heater in position. This prevents the glass in the heater wall from accidentally striking the tank wall, which could potentially result in a fracture in the heater's glass, destroying it. If your heater did not come with such a mounting device, Lee sells heater mounting suction cups as an accessory item. Large fish (such as Oscars and Goldfish) can easily slam heaters around, so be sure to mount yours securely.
Heaters are rated by how many watts of electricity they consume. "Watt" is right for your tank? Well, a useful rule of thumb is to allow about 5 watts per gallon of water in an average room where the desired temperature of the tank is about equal to or less than 10 degrees warmer than the room. If you are attempting to run an aquarium at, say, 80 degrees while room temperatures dip to 50 or 55 degrees, then it might be better to increase that recommendation to 10 watts of heater per gallon of water. (Frankly, I have found the 5 watts per gallon rule to be extremely conservative. It would only be in an extreme situation where a larger heater would be required.) It is always a good idea to have a heater that is rated as adequate or slightly more than adequate, as compared to a marginally rated heater. A marginally rated heater may have to run constantly to barely maintain the desired temperature, and would have no reserve capacity should the room chill down a little lower than expected (such as when that furnace decides to fail on a cold winter morning). A heater with adequate capacity and a little reserve capacity will not have to cycle nearly as often to maintain the desired temperature, and will thus enjoy a longer service life. It will also be able to handle that rare and always unexpected demand for more heating capacity should room heat fail.

Some people recommend dividing the wattage between two heaters. For example, if you were running a 20 gallon tank and, using the 5 watts per gallon recommendation, decided you needed a 100 watt heater, some would recommend that you run two 50 watt heaters rather than a single 100 watt heater. They reason that in case one heater fails, the other would be able to pick up at least part of the slack and not let tank temperatures plunge too drastically before you could catch the error and you could secure a replacement heater. (People living in very cold climates should ALWAYS keep a spare heater or two on hand, just to handle potentially disastrous emergencies such as this.
A spare heater on the closet shelf is very cheap insurance if your tank full of expensive fish should suddenly be endangered by heater failure on some cold winter Sunday morning, when you might not be able to secure a replacement right away.) By dividing the heaters into two heaters, the reasoning continues, it also helps prevent the heart-breaking experience of a heater thermostat sticking in the "on" position, and thus cooking your fish. If you are in this hobby long enough, sooner or later you will either meet someone who has had that experience, or (heaven forbid) you might go through it yourself. Dividing the wattage between two heaters seems to make sense.
On the other hand, high-quality heaters made today (Ebo Jager, Rena Cal, others) enjoy very high quality construction with outstanding reputations for reliability and very low failure rates. I personally own a high quality heater (that, unfortunately, is no longer being manufactured) that has been in continuous service since 1962 and is still going strong 37 years later (as I write this in 1999). Paying a few dollars more for a heater may be all you need do to protect against unexpected disasters in your tank.
Some, such as the Heetmaster, are very easy to open and service, so you can inspect and clean (or replace!) electrical contacts or components if needed, something not every heater allows. Should you decide to attempt to clean your heater's electrical contacts, do so by gently swiping a piece of typing paper between the contacts. Never use an abrasive cleaner, and never use anything hard (like a file), which can severely damage electrical contacts. Exception: electronic supply stores sell a fine little instrument called a Relay Contact Cleaner. This is a smooth little band of metal mounted to a little handle, specifically designed for cleaning and polishing delicate electrical contacts. It is similar to a file, only with an extremely fine texture to it, almost the same as Bond Paper. It will not leave metal filings or other residue which later could cause electrical contacts to stick and the heater to remain stuck in the ON position. No submersible heater is easily opened and serviced, so it would probably be wise not to try. If you don't get the seal exactly right and water enters the heater, the heater will be ruined very quickly.
If you weren't already aware, NEVER put a heater in water unless it is unplugged and has been allowed to cool to room temperature first. The combination of hot glass in cold water can have spectacular and disastrous results. After placing the heater in the water, allow temperatures to stabilize for at least 5 or 10 minutes before plugging the heater in, also to prevent unnecessary glass breakage. Always inspect a heater for almost unnoticeable cracks in the glass before placing it in water. A hairline crack in the glass can result in catastrophic failure at a later date. Be very careful in handling the heater not to strike the glass against a hard object. Never clean a heater's glass with anything that might scratch the glass, which could cause it to fracture along the scratch line at a later date.
NEVER put your hand or arm in an aquarium with a heater plugged in. Should there be any electrical leakage, it could really ruin your day. Should your heater's electrical cord develop any hint of a cut or damage to the wire's insulation, play it safe and remove the heater from usage at once. Never attempt to repair the electrical cord by taping or by applying any insulating wrap - it's just not worth the risk to fish and fishkeeper. Either return the heater to the manufacturer for servicing and replacement of the wire, or discard the heater.

Most heater manufacturers picture their heaters mounted vertically on the tank. Of course, non-submersible heaters demand this mounting, and you CAN use a submersible heater this way. Used in this position, convection currents produced by warm water rising off the heater will tend to cause greater temperature shifts from one area of the tank to another. Without supplemental circulation, water on the right side of the tank will tend to be measurably cooler than water on the left side of the tank. There is also the problem of "layering," where warm water tends to rise to the top of the tank, leaving water at the bottom of the tank cooler.
However, you can take advantage of a submersible's slightly greater efficiency for heating (because no heat is wasted through the exposed assembly out of water column at the top of the tank if a heater is submerged), and also improve water circulation. Simply turn the submersible heater on its side, mounting it close to the bottom of the tank, like this:
|
|~~~|~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
| |
| | |
| \========o |
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
In this position, all the heat produced by the heater will go into the water column, and none directly into the air above the tank. (A glass cover will help to hold heat inside the tank where it belongs, and not allow it to escape into the air above the water. Evaporation is also reduced with a glass cover.) Water circulation will be improved in the tank because convection currents from the heater will gently stir up cold water from the bottom of the tank as warm water rises off the heater. You will see much more even heating in the tank by using a submersible heater in this manner. Another advantage comes at tank water changing time. If you have a vertically mounted heater and forget to unplug it, you can drain water down until the glass around the heater element is exposed to air. When you refill with water, it is possible to fracture the glass in the heater's tube. In my humble opinion, horizontal mounting is the preferred mounting for a submersible heater. Again, before mounting or moving any heater, first be sure the heater is unplugged. Remember, heaters operate from 115 volts (or 230 in Europe!), and your hands are wet. By unplugging the heater before handling, you eliminate any danger of electrocution or dangerous shock.

BEGINNER'S TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL FISHKEEPING

2010-09-16T06:18:00.003-07:00

Beginning fishkeepers frequently complain that they can't seem to keep their fish alive, or that they experience frequent problems with diseases. There is no magical secret to keeping healthy, thriving fish. Most fish are quite forgiving of errors and mistakes. However, there are a few things that you should know to guarantee a healthy, successful aquarium.

1. Adequate aquarium size. The old adage "buy the largest aquarium possible," or the largest you can afford is quite accurate advice. In nature, fish are simply not overcrowded. If you ever watch scenes in movies where fish are swimming in a river, lake, stream or pond, you will immediately notice that there really aren't that many fish per gallon of water. Nature simply doesn't overcrowd her natural aquariums, and neither should you. An understocked aquarium will always have fewer problems and remain healthy much easier than an overstocked aquarium. There are numerous "rules of thumb" to help guide you in stocking an aquarium. One rule is the 1 inch of fish per 1 gallon of water guide. This is a good starting point, but works only with small, slender fish such as Tetras or Guppys. An 8" large-bodied fish such as an Oscar or Goldfish produces many times more waste byproducts than eight 1" Guppys. Yes, I know, there are many fishkeepers who will testify that they knew someone once who kept a 12" Goldfish in a 10 gallon tank. First, I truly doubt their story. Second, the Goldfish quite obviously never had any quality of life. And third, only large daily water changes would have allowed the fish to live - a lot of extra work for the fishkeeper. When choosing a tank for size, keep in mind the size of the fish when they will become adults, and make sure they have plenty of swimming room.
2. Water. With a rare few exceptions, most fish can tolerate water vastly different from what the books say they require. If you can drink your tapwater and live, then usually your fish can live in it just fine. There are many products on the market that claim to adjust the water to the fish's home waters. These products usually don't mention that they rarely work with tapwater, but instead work only with distilled water. In other words, you end up adding chemicals on top of the chemicals already in your water. This can result in very unstable water. Additionally, the additives must be replaced with every water change, which quickly becomes an expensive and messy project. Also frequently overlooked is that many fish you purchase were bred and kept in local water. For example, Angelfish in the wild come from soft, acidic water. However, the Angelfish you purchase in the store may be hundreds of generations away from the wild, and may have come from locally bred stock that has been adapted to your local water conditions for dozens of generations. This is particularly true if you purchase your fish from a local breeder, or acquire them from a local friend whose fish had fry, and they are trying to get rid of the excess. It is also wise to choose fish that are well matched to your water. For example, if you lived in Boise, Idaho and had extremely hard mineral water pouring from your faucet, you would be wise to not try to breed Discus. Instead, the ideal fish for you might be African Cichlids, or perhaps Livebearers, which do well in hard water. Indeed, Rift Lake Cichlids must have hard, alkaline water, and will die within hours if placed in soft, acid water.
3. Water conditioning. Almost every municipality processes its water to kill bacteria, parasites, and viruses that could cause disease in humans. Most municipal water plants use chlorine, while a few others add ozone and chloramine to their water. Ozone poses no threat to fish or humans, and is quickly dissipated after processing. Chlorine and chloramine pose other problems. These chemicals can harm fish, and can also damage the beneficial bacteria in your aquarium, and must be removed. Chlorine can be removed simply by putting the water in a bucket, dropping in an airstone, and aerating the water overnight. Then, it is safe to add to the aquarium. There are also simple chlorine removers on the market, usually based on photographer's hypo, or Sodium Thiosulfate, that can quickly neutralize the chlorine into a harmless substance. Your local fish store sells several brands of chlorine remover. All of these work immediately. Add the recommended number of drops to the water, stir, and a minute later the water is safe to use.
Chloramine requires special consideration. Chloramine consists of a tight chemical bond between chlorine and ammonia. It is used because it is very stable, and does not break down in the city's water distribution pipes. It cannot be removed by aeration or aging. It cannot be boiled out, and it cannot easily be filtered out. The only practical method of removing chloramine is to purchase a product specifically formulated to break the chlorine/ammonia bond. Once broken, the chlorine is then neutralized with Thiosulfate, and the ammonia is released into the water. This ammonia is the same ammonia our fish excrete as waste, and is consumed over a few minutes by the beneficial bacteria in our tank. We have been taught that ammonia is deadly to our fish, and it is, in sufficient concentration and if the fish are left in the stuff for a length of time. Fortunately, the amount of ammonia released from chloramine is very small, and is consumed very quickly by our tank's bacteria. A heavily planted tank has the advantage of hungry plants that can also consume ammonia very quickly.

There are many products that neutralize chloramine. Personally, I prefer a simple chemical that does that, and only that. I don't want extra additives that "enhance slime coating," or "neutralize heavy metals," or any other extra functions. If I wanted my fish's slime coating enhanced, I would add something to enhance their slime. When I am doing a water change, all I want is to make the water safe for the fish and for the tank's bacteria. When choosing a chlorine/chloramine remover, read the label carefully to see what else it claims to do. You may not want these additives, either. One of the simplest chlorine/chloramine removers is Wardley's Chlor-Out. Kordon's Amquel is perhaps a better chlorine/chloramine remover, because it not only breaks the chloramine bond, but also goes on to neutralize the ammonia. There are other similar products.

3, Heaters. A few fish can live in cool water. Indeed, Goldfish prefer water down in the 55-60*F range. White Cloud Mountain Minnows prefer temperatures down in the 60 degree range. However, most Tropical Fish (the kind most of us keep) require a warmer temperature, somewhere in the 76-78*F range. A few, such as Angelfish and Mollys, do better in the 80-81*F range. Few of us keep our rooms at 81*F in the winter, so a tank heater will usually be required. I have written a separate article on how to choose an aquarium heater. For now, I will refer you to that article. But in general, you should choose a better-quality heater (Ebo-Jager, Rena Cal, etc.), sized for about 5 watts of power per gallon of water. This will easily handle the aquarium when the temperature differential is no more than about 10*F between room temperature and tank temperature. If your room gets much colder than that, you should choose a larger heater. For example, a 10 gallon tank in an average living room would normally do best with a 50 watt heater. If the room gets down in the low 60s or 50s at night, you might want to increase this heater to a 75w or even a 100w model. A larger heater won't damage the tank. It just makes it easier to maintain a warmer temperature in a colder room in the winter. When choosing a heater, you should know that submersible heaters are a little more efficient than other types of heaters. CAUTION: ALWAYS unplug a heater before working on the tank. NEVER stick your hands in the water without first unplugging the heater. Do not ignore these safety precautions, even one, single time. Should your heater develop a short-circuit or the glass break, the heater can pose a deadly threat. Make it a habit: always unplug that heater before your hands go near the water.

4. Thermometers. Never trust the calibrations on a heater. Always provide a separate, high quality thermometer to measure the tank's actual temperature. Get in the habit of checking this thermometer at every feeding. Should a heater fail, you will catch the problem quickly if you do this, and perhaps save your fish's lives. Photographer's supply houses sell very accurate thermometers, and you might consider investing in one to keep as a reference thermometer to check all your other thermometers against. There are also some very accurate digital thermometers available to photographers, and these are very useful to the aquarium hobby as well.

SALT IN THE FRESHWATER AQUARIUM

2010-09-16T06:18:00.001-07:00

Much has been written about the pro's and con's of adding salt to an aquarium. Some support its use unequivocally, while others condemn it outright. As usual, the truth lies somewhere in the middle.

Why would we want to add salt in the first place? After al, there are a few fish that do not do well with any salt at all in the water. Some fish that do not do well with added salt would include smooth skinned catfish, Corydoras, Tetras, Angelfish, Discus, Loaches and Bettas. There are others as well. High concentrations of salt also are detrimental to planted aquariums.

Some fish that do much better with added salt would include Goldfish, Koi, African Cichlids, and livebearers. Indeed, the secret to keeping healthy, robust Mollys, Platys, Swordtails, and Guppys is to add salt. Many Ichthyologists consider Mollys and Platys to be saltwater fish that have been adapted to freshwater, and not the other way around. Almost all health problems with Mollys disappear when salt is added. Mollys can actually thrive and reproduce readily in straight seawater. Some saltwater aquarists use Mollys as "cycle" fish in their saltwater aquariums. The usual recommended dose is 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt per 5 gallons of water. This does does not seem to harm most plants, but higher doses may.

Some people keep mixed community aquariums to include both Mollys and Tetras, Platys and Corys. I have kept these fish in water with added salt for years, and have never noticed any particular problems to the Corys or Tetras, although they will not readily breed in water with any salt added. Corys and Tetras can best be bred in soft, slightly acid salt-free water, so that may be a factor for you if you wish to keep these particular species for breeding purposes. You may not want to keep Corys and Tetras intended to be bred in community tanks with added salt.

Advantages of added salt include better osmosis balance for the fish (who must maintain a proper internal/external balance of water). Salt also reduces or eliminates nitrite toxicity. In a cycling tank, nitrites can be quite toxic, but not with added salt. Indeed, marine fish are completely free of worries from nitrite toxicity due to the high salt content of seawater. Experiments with nitrite levels as high as 25 ppm cause no problems for saltwater fish. A similar effect can be expected with freshwater fish, although of course we will not be adding salt at the same rate as for saltwater fish. Salt also reduces parasite infestations, since salt interferes with the life cycle of many (or most) external parasites.
Salt can be used with almost any fish on a temporary basis as a therapeutic medication for most parasites, particularly Ich. Many fish cannot be treated with the usual Ich medications such as those containing Malachite Green. Tetras and Corys in particular can be seriously harmed with ordinary Ich medications. However, all fish can tolerate 1 tablespoon of salt per 5 gallons of water for the 21 days it takes to eradicate Ich. Raising the water temperature to 86-88*F is recommended to treat Ich because it speeds up the life cycle of the parasite, and also seems to create a hostile environment for the parasite, while not harming the fish. After 21 days, the temperature may be lowered by returning the heater to its previous setting and allowing the water to cool naturally. Salt may be removed by routine water changes, which will slowly dilute out all the salt, if that is your desire. Or, if you are maintaining fish that prefer salt, you can replace lost salt at the rate of 1 tablespoon of salt per 5 gallons of water changed.

Which salt to use? Well, aquarium salt (such as Aquarium Pharmaceutical's Doc Wellfish brand) is readily available in any fish store, and a box goes a long way. Table salt contains additives which you may not want in your tank. Most opponents to table salt cite the addition of Potassium Iodide to the salt, but I do not believe this is a concern. However, many brands of salt contain anti-caking agents such as Yellow Prussiate of Soda, which contains Cyanide. Yes, the dosage is quite small, but why would you WANT to add something potentially harmful to fish when there are readily available alternatives. If you should happen to live, say, 30,000 miles from the nearest aquarium store and you have no telephone with which to order salt from one of the mail order companies, then you can use Morton's Rock Salt, or Hain's Sea Salt, readily available from your supermarket. Kosher salt is frequently recommended. Unfortunately, Morton's Kosher Salt contains Yellow Prussiate of Soda, so I do not recommend its use. If you can find it, canning salt also makes a good alternative; it's usually additive free.
If you are a planted aquarium aficionado, you would probably be best advised to avoid adding salt to your aquarium. If you have fish that prefer salt, perhaps it would be better for you to keep your fish and plants in separate aquariums. If your primary goal is to grow beautiful plants, and if your fish require much salt, then you have a decision to make. You can favor the plants, or you can favor the fish, but where salt is concerned, it's rarely possible to do both.

New Tank Syndrome

2010-09-16T06:17:00.000-07:00

So, you've got your new tank set up. You followed everyone's advice and bought as large a tank as your budget - and space - allowed. You've got a new "Super Eagle Model 5" filter, which was highly recommended as being the best on the market. You added attractive gravel and ornaments, a good quality heater, and an accurate thermometer. You filled the tank with water, and were careful to use a dechlorinating additive, as everyone at the fish store recommended. You've allowed the water to sit for a couple of days, and have adjusted the heater to maintain the water at the desired temperature for your fish. Next, you bought some very healthy looking fish, and carefully floated the bag in the water for 15 minutes, to equalize temperatures. You slowly added tank water to the bag, and after another 20 minutes you added the fish to your aquarium. Everything looks great. The fish have quickly adjusted to their new home, and are swimming around and exploring. All looks well, and you are proud that you have done everything right to reach this successful conclusion.

Well, not quite. 3 or 4 days later, you notice your fish are having difficulty breathing, and appear listless. Worse, there is something wrong with your filter - it's not keeping the water as clear as it was in the beginning. The water is beginning to turn milky white, and - horrors - you notice one of your new fish has died! Something terrible is happening in your tank, but you don't know what. What could possibly have gone wrong?

Welcome to the frustrating world of New Tank Syndrome.
To understand what is happening to your beautiful new tank, you need to understand what changes occur in a new tank. All new tanks start out "sterile." That is, they have no bacteria, no organic life forms, just clean rocks and ornaments and filter. Fish, meanwhile, are doing what fish do best: eating and pooping. The waste product of fish is very high in ammonia. This ammonia has nowhere to go (you can't "flush" an aquarium), and so it builds up in the water. Eventually, after a few days, the ammonia level builds to the point that it becomes toxic to fish. (Imagine how your health would suffer if you had to live in your unflushed toilet for a few days. Not a pretty thought!)

Why, then, do fish not have this problem in nature? Why does your neighbor's tank, which he has had running for 8 months now, look so beautiful, while yours is not doing well at all? And why is his water clear, while yours is turning cloudy white? Most important of all, why doesn't your expensive new filter remove this white cloud? Did you not buy the filter the nice salesman recommended? Didn't he tell you that this filter would easily handle the fish in your tank?

Well, he didn't lie. The filter is more than capable of handling the fish load in your tank. What he didn't tell you is that before this can happen, the tank must grow a colony of beneficial bacteria. These bacteria are the secret of why a tank can run day after day with the water remaining clean and clear and healthy. Ammonia is removed from the water by bacteria commonly referred to as Nitrosomonas. These bacteria "eat" the ammonia, and remove it from the water. However, being life forms themselves, the bacteria convert the ammonia to another form of chemical called nitrites (notice the spelling, "ites" on the end of the word). These nitrites are also quite toxic in their own right, and can kill fish just as fast as can ammonia. Fortunately, more bacteria, commonly referred to as Nitrobacter, can "eat" nitrites and convert them to a much less toxic form called nitrates (notice the "ates" on the end of the word). These nitrates can be unhealthy if allowed to build and build, but fortunately they are very easy to remove. We'll discuss how in a few minutes.

While the tank is developing a healthy colony of bacteria, waste products can build up. Ammonia can be very troublesome for new tanks. It is almost always responsible for the "white, cloudy water" syndrome experienced by so many newcomers. The white cloud consists of microscopic particles so small that they can easily slip through the little holes in the filter material. In other words, attempts to filter out the white stuff won't be successful.

Where do these beneficial bacteria come from, and how do you get them to grow - and quickly - in your new tank? Well, the bacteria you need are found throughout nature. Probably the best place to get a "starter colony" of beneficial bacteria is from an old, established tank. The bacteria you want to grow are found throughout an established aquarium. They grow on the glass walls of the tank, on the gravel, the rocks, the ornaments, and on the walls inside the filter. If you have a friend who has a healthy established aquarium, you might be able to talk him out of a cup of his old, dirty gravel, or an old slime-coated rock or ornament. Do NOT clean this gravel or ornament! That slime coating contains the bacteria you seek! If his gravel does not match your gravel, just put the slime-coated gravel in a cloth mesh bag and toss it into the corner of your aquarium. If his ornament or rocks don't match your décor, remember that they don't have to stay in there forever. Just position the rock or ornament in your new aquarium, and the beneficial bacteria will grow and begin to colonize your tank.

This process does not occur overnight. Before beneficial bacteria can grow in your tank, your gravel, rocks, filter, etc., must first develop a "slime coating" of their own. This takes about 30 days or so, and there isn't a lot you can do to hurry the process. Patience is required here.

There are, however, a few things you need to know about growing these bacteria in your tank. First, be aware that beneficial bacteria will not grow in very acid water. If the pH of your water is around 5.5 or below, your bacteria will not grow. They prefer a more neutral pH, somewhere between 6.0 and 8.2, with a neutral pH 7.0 probably being best. Another factor is temperature. Beneficial bacteria grow faster in warmer water. They will grow extremely slowly, or not at all, at temperatures below 74 degrees Fahrenheit. If your water is cooler than this, you will want to raise your temperature. Fish are usually happier at warmer temperatures anyway, so go ahead and turn up that heater so the water is around 80 - 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Finally, be aware that beneficial bacteria are "aerobic" bacteria. That means that they prefer oxygen-rich environments in which to grow. Knowing this, you can help the beneficial bacteria grow by adding an airstone or bubbling ornament to the tank.

Several manufacturers make "bacteria in a bottle" products. Much misinformation and misunderstanding exists about these products, and some people on either end of the argument become quite vitriolic when voicing their opinions. "Bacteria in a bottle works great, and speeds up the cycle to just a few days." Wrong. "Bacteria in a bottle is snake oil, and doesn't work." Wrong. "No evidence exists that these products are useful." Wrong again. "Bacteria in a bottle are a waste of money." Sorry, but still wrong.

Bacteria in a bottle products such as [brand names omitted- sorry], and a host of others do usually contain the bacteria we want in our tank. Trouble is, you can't just dump them in the tank and expect to have an instant useful colony of bacteria. Instead, think of these products as "bacterial seeds." That is, they do provide the bacteria we want, but your tank can't sustain them until it develops the slime coating we mentioned. Since bacteria can't survive in the water column, but must attach themselves to smooth, slimy surfaces, the bacteria we add from a bottle will live in the water for a few days. Ammonia and nitrite measurements will show an overnight reduction in ammonia and nitrites, proving that the bacteria are indeed working and removing ammonia and nitrites as they should. Unfortunately, a few days later the ammonia and nitrite readings will rise once again. What happened? Well, the bacteria could not find a "footing" on which to grow (no slime coat has yet developed in the tank), and so they died off after a few days. More bacteria in a bottle can be added, but this will have to be repeated several times per week until the slime coating becomes established. At this point, the bacteria can then grow in the tank, and no further additions of bacteria will be required because the bacteria can reproduce and replace themselves on a daily basis. All this will take around 30 days or so. Thus, no bottled bacteria products can "speed up the cycle." They just sort of help point it in the right direction, but it's still going to take around 30 days, whether you use gravel from an established tank or bottled bacteria products. There are no shortcuts.

Well, maybe there are some shortcuts. Remember the suggestion to get a cup of gravel from an established aquarium, or perhaps a rock or two? If these rocks came from a large tank with many fish, there is the possibility that the rocks do have enough bacteria on them to sustain a SMALL colony of fish in another tank, right from day one. Another trick is in maintaining a spare filter on a large tank with large, dirty fish. Do you have a 55 gallon tank of Goldfish sitting in the corner of your room? If so, you probably have a large, very authoritative filter on the tank, a large canister perhaps, or a big Hang-On-Back (HOB) filter. Have you considered adding a smaller filter, perhaps a smaller HOB filter or something similar? While it won't have a large effect on the overall filtration, this smaller filter will maintain a large colony of bacteria on its internal surfaces. If you then want to set up a smaller (10-20 gallon) tank some day, you can pull that smaller HOB filter off the larger tank, add it to the smaller tank, and the filter will be able to handle a significant fish load from day one. In fact, it may be capable of providing 100% of the bacteria needed for a modest fish load in a smaller tank, right off the bat.

Getting Started in Aquarium Photography

2010-09-16T06:16:00.001-07:00

As anyone who has attempted to photograph fish has learned, it's not as easy as it looks. Probably your first attempts at fish photography resulted in blurry, fuzzy pictures that were ruined by reflection off the glass and back into the lens. We then look at the magnificent photographs in fish magazines, and wonder how in the world the photographer achieved such beautiful results, when our attempts failed so miserably. This article will help identify some of the problems of aquarium photography, and then try to create some solutions for you.

Successful fish photography does not require a huge investment in expensive cameras, special lenses and elaborate lighting equipment. To be sure, some of the most beautiful photographs you have seen were, indeed, taken with expensive equipment. However, we can take beautiful pictures without breaking the piggy bank.

The selection of a camera is not difficult. It's important to know that simple "point and shoot" cameras will invariably be inadequate for fish photography. First, the flash is usually mounted permanently in the camera, and cannot be removed for lighting from any angle other than frontal lighting. This will result in a glare of light reflecting off the aquarium glass. The camera you choose must be capable of using an electronic flash unit mounted off the camera. Any quality 35mm SLR camera will work well for our purposes. While photo store salesmen love to try to convince you that only this or that brand of camera has a sharp lens, or will give faithful color rendition, the truth is that all but the cheapest SLR cameras has a darned good lens. My personal favorite camera is the Nikon FE2, but any brand such as Minolta, Pentax, Ricoh, etc., will do the job. A camera that has the capability of manual shutter and lens settings will be required, since auto-focus and auto-exposure cameras will be fooled by the front glass of the tank. Probably one of the best cameras for fish photography is the simple old Pentax K-1000, or it's predecessor, the Pentax Spotmatic series of cameras. Old manual Nikons such as the Nikon F, F2, F3, FM, etc., are perfect aquarium cameras. Older Minoltas such as the SR-1 and SR-7 can frequently be purchased at yard sales for $5 or $10, and make excellent cameras for our purposes.

The "normal" lens for a 35mm SLR usually is of 50mm focal length. Large aperatures such as F1.4 are nice, but are entirely unnecessary. Probably the sharpest lens ever made was the old Nikkor 50mm F:2 lens. Older Pentax Takumar 50mm F:2 lenses were among the sharpest ever made by any manufacturer in the world, and that includes Leica lenses. The differences in most lenses is not in sharpness, but rather in quality of the lens barrel. While an expensive lens may be made with metal barrels and metal spacers, a cheaper lens may use a plastic or other cheaper material. This usually doesn't show up in the photograph. Use whatever you have, and don't spend a lot of money for a fish photography camera.

Whatever lens you choose, it would be better if it had close-up capability. This means that any of the "Macro" lenses are to be desired. I treasure my Micro-Nikkor lens because it can focus down to within a few inches of the subject. This comes in very handy when trying to take close-up pictures of a single fish. Longer focal length lenses ("telephoto" lenses) can be used, but with their longer focal length comes more shallow depth of field. Probably the best of all worlds is the Macro Zoom type of lens, that allows you to adjust the focal length of the lens from, for example, about 35mm to 105mm focal length.

Of more importance is the lighting. At one time, photoflood bulbs were quite commonly used. Their great disadvantage is that they get quite hot, and are difficult to work with. If turned on too long, they can actually heat the water in the tank. Any water splashed on the bulb will almost certainly result in catastrophic failure. Another disadvantage of photoflood bulbs is that they are a poor match for color film, requiring the use of light-absorbing color correction filters over the lens. A much better choice is an electronic flash unit. This must be capable of being mounted off camera, and be provided with a sync cord or sync cord extension capable of reaching 2 or 3 feet from the flash unit to the camera.

Most photography stores sell many accessories to make lighting the aquarium an easy task. Light stands with extended arms allow us to place the flash unit directly above the tank. Light diffusers are very desirable. The ideal light for our purposes would be a professional "soft box" type of light that has dimensions larger than the tank, e.g., a 24" x 24" soft box mounted directly over the tank would be perfect. If this is above your budget, then a diffuser lens mounted over the flash head will soften shadows and spread the light more evenly through the aquarium.

Depth of field is determined by the F-stop we use. A lens with an F1.4 aperature will allow photography in a very dimly lit tank, but the depth of field will be quite shallow. The fish may be in focus, while everything around him is blurred. To achieve maximum sharpness of the fish as well as surrounding decorations, plants, etc., you will need to stop the lens down. F:11 or F:16 (Or smaller if available and you have adequate light) will render much sharper, crisper photos than those taken at larger (wider) aperatures. Of course, the smaller the aperature, the more light that will be required. This means that a large studio electronic flash rated at 100 watt-seconds or more will always be superior to a small hand-held electronic flash unit. However, a professional studio flash can cost hundreds of dollars, and would be a poor investment unless you intend to do photography on a commercial basis. Therefore, pick an accessory flash unit that fits your budget without breaking it. If you look in a Spiratone or Porter's Camera catalog, you'll find some very good quality flash units at an affordable price. Off-brand flash units do not necessarily equate to poor quality. I have a Popular brand flash unit that I purchased over a decade ago that is still giving me faithful daily service. This unit was also sold under the Spiratone brand, and someone once told me that Toshiba manufactured them and sold them under the Toshiba brand as well. Whatever its pedigree, it has served me well, and was not expensive when I purchased it.

As mentioned, the light should be mounted above the tank and pointing down. If your tank has a cover, remove it for the short time you will be taking pictures so that no light is blocked. If the surface of the water is agitated by an airstone, power head or strong power filter, turn them off for the few minutes required to take your pictures. This will prevent undesirable light diffraction that might cause strange shadows or light patterns to fall on the fish and to spoil your picture. The light should be mounted about 1 to 2 feet above the water. If the flash unit has an automatic exposure setting, this should be disabled and the flash unit should be set to manual. This will prevent light bouncing back off the water's surface and resulting in under exposure.

The camera should be mounted in front of the aquarium, with the plane of the film parallel to the plane of the front glass. This results in the least distortion possible.

Probably more aquarium pictures are spoiled by water spots or streaks on the glass than from any other cause. Be sure to clean the front glass with a good glass cleaner. If you use a product that contains ammonia, be very careful not to allow any of the spray to enter the water. It would be better if you spray the cleaner on the cleaning cloth, and then apply it to the glass. Glass cleaners are made with vinegar and are ammonia-free. If you can find one of these at the store, by all means use it. Whatever you end up with, clean the glass very thoroughly, and then polish the glass with a clean soft towel until every trace of a water spot or dust is completely removed. I cannot over-emphasize how important it is to get the glass clean. Algae or other debris on the inside surface of the glass can be removed with a scraper or a magnet scrubber. It would be best to do this several hours before taking photographs, so that any floating debris or algae is removed by the filter by the time you're ready to take pictures.
Make sure you have no plants or other obstructions above the fish. Otherwise, the shadow of the plants may obscure the fish.

It may be difficult to calculate exposure. The exposure dial or scale on the electronic flash is a starting point, but usually a wider F-stop will be required. Light loss in the water may be a little unpredictable. If you use slide film, you might want to take a series of photographs at "bracketed" F-stops. This means you will want to try, say, one F-stop less exposure, a "normal" calculated exposure, and then 2 or 3 more pictures with gradually wider F-stops. Have the film processed, and then choose the F-stop that results in the best exposure. Of course, be sure to take notes of where you had the flash unit mounted and the exposure data, or your efforts will be wasted.
Choosing a film for your fish photography isn't too difficult. Remember that the "slower" films (ASA 25 or 50) will result in the sharpest pictures with the finest grain, but their slow speed may require you to use a wider (lower) F-stop, which can negate the advantage due to the resulting more shallow depth of field. High-speed films such as ASA 1600 or 3200 will allow you to use a very small aperature, but their grain may be noticeably objectionable. Color saturation usually suffers with the high-speed films as well. A middle range film such as ASA 100 or 200 is best, provided you can achieve a small enough aperature. Color print film or color slide film is up to you. Slide film is a little more critical about exposure, but if your plan is to show your pictures at your local fish club, then slides will make it easy for you to make a more formal presentation. If you plan to publish your fish pictures, almost without exception magazines will prefer your submissions to be in color slide form. If you shoot print film, of course, you will be able to make better quality enlargements. These enlargements can then be used as wall decorations for your fish room, or mailed to your friends.

Place your camera on a tripod if you have one. It will result in a sharper photo, since the point of focus can be locked down with accuracy. A tripod also eliminates any possibility of camera shake.

If your fish are active swimmers and you want a close-up of one, single fish, there are several ways you can achieve this. One would be to pre-focus the camera on a spot in the tank, and then wait until the fish swims into this spot. Then, take your picture, knowing the fish will be in sharp focus. This calls for patience on your part, but results in a very natural-looking photograph that is composed exactly as you wanted it to be. If the fish will not cooperate and wants to swim everywhere except where you want him to be, you might try restricting his movement with sheets of glass inserted in the tank to prevent the fish from straying. Or, you might place the fish in a smaller tank that restricts his ability to range far and wide. It is a simple task to set up an attractive 5.5 gallon tank with a beautiful arrangement of a few rocks and plants, then transfer the fish to be photographed to this tank. In a 5.5 gallon tank, he won't stray far from your lens. Here's a practical tip: get a sheet of glass that can be pivoted up from the front lower corner of the tank, so that you can "pin" the fish against the front glass. That will prevent the fish from swimming in and out of focus. You can also construct a special photography tank from sheets of glass. Make the tank about 10" long, 10" high, and about 1" wide. By placing the fish in this tank, he can swim forward or backward only 1", and can't swim out of your plane of focus. This tank can be placed inside a beautifully planted tank to use as a backdrop. The extra glass of the photography tank won't show in the picture. And finally, you can use a printed background set back behind the 1" wide photograhy tank. With judicial selection of a wider f-stop, the backdrop will blur out of focus, giving a pleasant but non-distracting background for the fish.

Fish photography takes a lot of patience. It is also valuable if you keep careful notes of your exposures, the position and distance of light(s), camera, etc. When you change things, try changing just one thing at a time. That way, you will know what you did that helped improve the quality of the picture. At any rate, give it a try.

Clean Aquarium Glass Safely

2010-09-16T06:15:00.001-07:00

Sooner or later, all aquariums need to be cleaned. Is there anything you need to know about cleaning them safely?
Well, actually, yes!
Cleaning the inside of the glass is easy enough. Buildup of algae and nondescript “crud” can be removed with a scraper. Such scrapers are manufactured and sold specifically for aquarium care. The buildup is sent into the water column, where the filter will suck it in and remove it from the water.
Do you have to purchase an expensive (and flimsy!) scraper made for aquariums? Well, no. Actually, you can find perfectly adequate scrapers in the housewares department of your local Big Box store, where they are sold as “toilet brushes.” You can find nice toilet brushes with scrubbing pads on the ends, and they are very cheap to purchase. When you purchase it brand new, a toilet brush is perfectly clean and safe, and does an excellent job of reaching down into the aquarium to scrub the glass. But be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that this brush is DEDICATED to your aquarium, and do NOT use this brush for any other purpose. You cannot use it to scrub the toilet, or the sink, or the kitchen floor, or it will become contaminated with harsh chemical cleaning agents that can then damage the aquarium. Put this brush under your aquarium, safely tucked away, where it won’t get used for any other purpose.
What about the outside of the aquarium? Calcium deposits build up on the glass, causing unsightly white streaks to run down the side of the glass. What can you use that will quickly strip these deposits off? If you said “commercial window glass cleaner,” STOP! Most commercial window glass cleaners contain ammonia, and it can kill fish, even if just a slight amount of the spray enters the water. Never use a window glass cleaner containing ammonia around an aquarium.
What can you use to safely clean the glass? Vinegar. There are a rare few commercial window glass cleaners made out of vinegar that do not contain ammonia, but they can be difficult to find and are costly. But why not make your own? You can make an excellent window glass cleaner from ½ cup of ordinary white vinegar dissolved in ½ gallon of distilled water. You can purchase clean, brand new spray bottles in the Big Box store, and you can add your home-made window cleaner to the brand new spray bottle. Mark this bottle for aquarium cleaning purposes, and your fish will be perfectly safe.
Well, wait a minute… you don’t have to confine use of your home-made spray to the aquarium. Actually, you’ll discover that your homemade glass cleaner works very nicely on all glass surfaces, including windows and mirrors. Once you use this homemade cleaner, you probably won’t want to buy expensive commercial glass cleaners again.
Last, how about those unsightly white deposits that accumulate on the cover of the aquarium, or on the black plastic trim? Well, your homemade vinegar glass cleaner works there as well, only you don’t want to spray it directly on the aquarium surfaces above the water. Instead, spray a little on a clean cloth and use that to wipe down the top of the aquarium. It will remove those white hard water deposits on the aquarium, restoring the cover to a like-new appearance.
Even if a couple of drops of your homemade vinegar spray should enter the water column, it won’t be toxic to your fish, and it won’t upset your water balance. Natural buffers in your water will very quickly neutralize the acetic acid in the vinegar, and no harm will come from it.
Keeping your aquarium clean and sparkling is easy and safe. And now you know how to do it without investing wads of money in expensive aquarium cleaning supplies.

AQUATIC PLANTS IN MOVEABLE POTS

2010-09-16T06:06:00.001-07:00

For over a year now I have been growing most of my plants in conventional unglazed red clay flowerpots. In just two tanks I have Amazon Swords which are almost two years old, and they are rooted directly in the gravel. Their root systems are extensive and I have elected to leave them alone as long as they continue to do well. I keep Cryptocorynes and Anubias as well as Ceratopteris and Hygrophila in pots. The Microsorium, of course, is attached to the driftwood. I had read of potting water plants before, but never stopped to ponder such a proposition seriously until the idea occurred to me that doing so could solve some problems. What problems? And why do it? And how?

THE UNDERGRAVEL FILTER COMPLICATION

Whether to use UG or RUG goes to a basic overall philosophy of management design that is neither right not wrong, but only different from systems which do not employ them. I use reverse flow undergravel systems in all my tanks. My objective with the RUG is to maintain high aeration of the gravel bed so that its capacity as a biofiltration medium is maximized. The standard UG will do this also. Both types move water in a broadly distributed vertical pattern. Reviewing old hobbyist literature, one often finds statements to the effect that the UG filters are especially good for plant growth. Probably it was thought that the UG mechanical filtration which would draw organics into the gravel bed could be beneficial for enrichment of the rhizo-zone. In theory, there may be something to this, but those who use UGs and RUGs in this day and age are generally aware of the need to keep the gravel bed clear of detritus accumulation. The objective of maintaining the gravel bed at maximum oxidation potential is compromised by any other theory of using it for any other purpose! One experienced aquarist I know uses standard flow air-driven UG systems with "engineered" substrates and grows plants directly in the gravel bed. He has long-standing experience with such an arrangement and keeps plants with great success. I would view this as a management system of yet a different sort altogether and do not think of it as a compromise. But, by and large, I suggest that the basic idea of the undergravel filter as a high efficiency culture medium for aerophilic bacteria conflicts fundamentally with the general requirement for a reducing environment in the rhizo-zone which is optimal for plants.

The clay pot has a drainage weep, as should any planting container one might use for this purpose. Confining the root system to the pot isolates the rhizo-zone from the "oxidation enzyme reactor" which the gravel biofilter represents. Aerated water can circulate slowly through the pot, but its flow rate is greatly retarded relative to the flow rate through the gravel bed outside. I have never had a pot in which a plant was prospering go septic. The plant delivers oxygen through its roots to its microbial symbionts, and there is a very slow but positive flow of aerated water through the pot. I believe that the oxidation is controlled mostly by the plant so that a reducing environment is supported without anaerobism onset. This would be the objective in any successful planting substrate. With high-oxidation UGs and RUGs, it can be done by potting the plant!

CONVENIENCE AND ECONOMY

Whatever one is doing with the bottom of the tank, the portability of the plant once potted has its obvious benefit. It can be shifted about within the system, or even removed, without disturbing the roots. At such times that a thorough vacuuming of the gravel bed is in order, the entire plant along with its rhizo-zone can just be moved out of the way and repositioned anywhere in the tank, or even in another tank. If one wants to alter the location of a plant for any reason, the only restrictions which apply are the size of the pot and the plant's own space requirement. These advantages make aquatic plants in aquarium tanks no different in principle from potted houseplants moving about in the house or on the deck. Individually potting plants permits some breadth of scope for experimenting with substrates without committing entire tank bottoms to long-term trials. Potted plants can be set in bare-bottom tanks for easy maintenance without any gravel at all! This is how I grow out small specimens and cuttings in isolation tanks. I plant in straight SeaChem Flourite gravel with a few grains of Tetra Initial Sticks. In pots, a 15 pound bag of Flourite goes a long way, and when repotting, the substrate is reclaimed and reused with new Initial Sticks added. Or, read here any engineered substrate which might be undergoing experimentation or is in regular use. One need not spread the entire tank floor with optimized expensive substrate.

Consider also the ease of planting. One can set a new plant or cutting at a table using a small scoop, or otherwise carefully control the planting technique at normal gravity in a "dry" environment, then lower the pot into the tank with the plant intact and securely set. Certainly, there comes a time when repotting a growing specimen is desirable, as a thriving plant may outgrow its first pot. A true aquatic usually requires its own bouyancy to support itself. Sometimes repotting can be a four hand job if the plant is removed from the tank, but it is possible to do with help and due care.

One reason I prefer the customary clay pot is its weight. In the water, and especially with a large plant attached, the clay pot with its load of gravel tends to have a "heft" which I like. Any container with a gravel load will, of course, sink. But I just prefer the clay pot for its higher specific gravity. I would emphasize that this is a standard unglazed and undecorated clay pot which is non-bioreactive in any way. The sizes of such pots are relatively uniform along standards determined by the diameter at the rim. Three, four and five inch pots are employed, the smallest being, by far, the commonest in use. They are exceptionally inexpensive.

APPEARANCE CONSIDERATIONS

Ideally, one does not want to see the round rims of clay pots poking up out of the bottom of the tank. The three inch pot is not especially tall. If set directly on top of the UG plate, the surrounding gravel need not be at too high a depth to cover, or nearly cover, the rims. An aggregate of small stones piled up around the rims, or larger rocks and driftwood placed to mask the pots are conceivable strategies. A larger pot will almost always be taller than the surrounding gravel, and will present problems with hiding itself. Still, one wants a certain minimum depth of substrate as required by the plant, and the pot is a good way to get it whatever one chooses for a gravel depth overall. A high-velocity RUG is a good way to increase the bed depth without compromising the environment, and the oxidation enzyme reactor that results from this kind of gravel load makes the potting technique more attractive overall. The convenience benefit of potting plants obtains, however, for any type of system, with a deep gravel bed or no gravel bed at all.

HINTS AND TIPS

I use peat-paper pots as "liners" for the clay pots. This seems to make repotting and transplanting easier. Clay pots are porous, and tiny rhizomes tend to make roots stick to the pot. The peat used in these pots is not highly reactive, but there may be some benefit from whatever organic contribution may exist.

No attempt is made to re-fertilize by pressing material into the gravel. The potting technique facilitates resetting plants altogether. Also, once a plant gets fairly large, it is conceivable that it can become root-bound in a pot. It will, of course, be necessary to transfer it to a larger pot. These cases require removal from the tank, but give the opportunity to inspect the plants carefully and trim them under convenient circumstances. This can also occasion needed maintenance service while a pot is out of the way.

I use CO2 fertilization and moderate intensity fluorescent lighting. I use phosphate-removal resin to keep phosphate below .3 mg/l. I try not to allow the nitrate above 20 mg/l. I encourage high redox by means of DOC removal with activated carbon. These measures help to keep competing algal growth low.

I use Wiegandt Mira-Vit trace and Ferro-Vit fertilizer, as well as SeaChem Flourish. Soluble iron is tested in the water column frequently. 0.1 ppm is target minimum value. The plants seem always to do best with this much soluble iron (and other fortifications in the water column provided by supplements). Perhaps the plants use some of the stuff directly through leaves, but my feeling is that their main mode of uptake is by forced (however gradual) circulation through the rhizo-zone. The root system is mainly where the activity is, apart from the pre-eminently important photosynthesis process and CO2 uptake. In a pot with a weep positioned over a RUG, or a planting bed with a cable heater, there is a slow circulation of enriched water through the rhizo-zone. Eventually all molecules and ions present in the water column must pervade the substrate, where they are entrapped and used on command.

I cannot give a theoretically precise rationale for this method in the face of everything that is known about aquatic plants and how they prosper, apart from the outlines I have stated in terms balancing their requirements against those for other environmental considerations. There are issues concerning the correct proportions of macro and micro substance provision with which I have yet to learn to deal. Almost certainly, I have not hit upon any ideal. I can, however, vouch for the long-term vitality of the species of plants I mentioned at the beginning.