CUMC

New Year - new route, 1-1-13

2013-01-05T20:34:00.002+00:00

Coire Mor Bothy with the gully line of The Great Escape (our route on to the plateau for the next day) in the distance

Mixed weather forecasts and packs already weighed down with the supplies required for a Hogmanay bothy trip had meant an unwillingness to cart in climbing kit, but crampons and axes had sneaked in to our packs. Coire Mor, below Seanna Bhraigh was our choice of remote spots for our Hogmanay celebrations and the bothy lived up to expectations, a choice of five rooms and two stoves or an open fire greeted us on arrival and the whole place to ourselves. A blazing fire, bottle of whiskey and the visitors book provided the Hogmanay entertainment, particularly the grave warning of the inescapable nature of Coire Mor.

Creag an Duine of Seanna Bhraigh looming above the bothy in the bright hogmanay moonlight

The new year was seen in with a lowering snowline and periodically moonlit peaks. A relatively slow start the next morning, and streams offering little chance of crossing to get to Seanna Bhraigh, had us heading up Coire Mor towards Carn Ban, hopeful of finding an escape from this deeply scooped corrie. Coire Mor is around 5km long running to the SW with a line of four corries to the south and steep slopes plunging 400m to the corrie floor in the north. Admittedly, the wet snowy turf on the steep slopes to either side of the corrie offered only the prospect of a hellish day out and the potential icefalls were a bit to mobile to consider but a deep cutting gully cutting directly up the back wall of the corrie provided an obvious route.

A fine easy line for New Years Day (The Great Escape)

With the next band of showers racing up the glen we climbed up to the base of the gully, hoping to get snow rather than rain. Over a short rocky step, with a small waterfall causing some discomfort, and we were attaching crampons (the first time for Audrey) and having a quick sandwich before starting up the gully.

On our way up The Great Escape with Audrey getting used to crampons on grade I ground

Initial soft snow gave way to harder neve as we wound up the gully through impressive bounding walls with remnants of icicles hanging from the ledges. Views out to the west distracted as we gained height with the glacial scoop of Coire Mor opening out to frame Cul Beag and Stac Pollaidh in the west. After a pause for a halfway Tunnock's Caramel Waffer we pushed on to the top happy with our climb. On up in to the cloud and some compass work to the summit of Carn Ban and then down the north west spur, eventually through the slush zone and back to the bothy and reflection on a great first day of the year.

The spectacular glen of Coire Mor with Stac Polliadh and Cul Beag appearing in the distance

So much potential for new climbs in the remote northern corries of Carn Ban and the corries on the south side of Coire Mor, only two if which contain existing climbs. And as it later turns out our route for the day was also a new addition: The Great Escape, 300m I/II, S. Andrews, A. Decou & J. Howard, 1-1-13.

A few unclimbed lines????

Blowing the Xmas cobwebs out (before the build up of Hogmanay cobwebs) - 27-12-12

2012-12-28T14:45:00.000+00:00

The window of opportunity seemed to be swinging shut with a significant thaw and similarly significant gales on the way so it was fortunate that Donald was free to nip up to the Northern Corries to see what we could find. It had been a perfect day on Boxing day so now I was itching to get out even with a 7:00 meeting time in Inverness (1 hour away). So with little sleep I crept down the slippery roads, snow having dusted my path overnight. A quick stop off to pick up Donalds boots and then up to the Cairngorm Mountain car park and that slight nagging feeling of doubt - conditions, ability and a questioning of if the misery which goes hand in hand with winter climbing was actually going to be worth it.

Patey's Route, with its two tricky steps, providing a funnel for the spindrift

Patey's Route had been on my mind for some time, cutting a striking line up Aladdin's Buttress, and how hard could it be if the man himself had soloed the first ascent in 1959 shod in nails and armed with only a single axe.

Hints of ice at the crucial steps confirmed our choice and we tramped up to a perfect wind-scoop in which we could prepare. Donald led out the first pitch with the reassuring words that he had not really led ice before. However, stopping just short of the first step this would not be a problem. My attention was momentarily taken by an avalanche pouring out from Aladdin's Mirror.....quite a dark looking avalanche......with dark shapes in it? When it came to rest a couple of hundred meters downslope, the two dark shapes stood up and dusted themselves down, lucky not to have hit any of the protruding rocks. Not the greatest inspiration to confidence. My pause for thought was not long though and soon I followed Donald up some icy steps and some well packed snow in the base of the runnel to where he stood, out of the spindrift beside an intimidating jumble of overhanging lightly iced blocks.

Climbers picking their way up to Fiacaill Buttress

A brief pause for pleasantries and then upwards to try to solve what looked like a tricky problem. Gear was not a consideration as there wasn't any so it was just trying to find the faith to commit to the moves. Pausing for consideration, a wave of spindrift caused me to duck in only to late to remember my hood was not up. Now with my neck and back filled with a liberal pack of snow I focused back in. Careful footwork and some wide bridging allowed the strength of the axe placements not to be questioned and then a long run out up the steepening bed of the cleft reached a peg and some relaxation. But now the enclosing walls held a steepening line towards an icicle fringed overhang. Luckily as the angle steepened ice lined the back of the chimney. Moving up to the overhang calves and arms were starting to burn, placing a poor ice-screw only adding to the tired feeling. The angle was highlighted by the ropes hanging free for 15 meters below me. So instead of confronting the crux straight away I took up residence below the overhang in my ice cave, like some arctic troglodyte. Eventually it was time to leave my well appointed abode with a runner attached to some old cord disappearing in to the ice, presumably attached to something, providing my only security.

A ramp out left was tricky to reach with feet, or anything else for that matter, and the steep slab above it offered no help. A blind swing above found what felt like a solid placement over the lip of the overhang and allowed tentative movement out left. Sneaking upwards a second axe over the overhang added security but balance was precarious and arms tiring. At last I could get my feet back below me with the ice now offering the relative rest of near verticality. Now I could see the easing and a wave of euphoria came with it. A few more moves and I was over the lip and having a quick rest before seeking out a belay.

A well earned drink after a quick ascent of Patey's Route, starting Hogmanay very early

The ground now became easier and a couple of pitches led past the impressive Aladdin's Seat and round to the lip of the corrie. After what had turned out to be a quick ascent in comparison to recent efforts (2.5 hours) a brief consideration was given to a second route but a walk down in the light was eventually thought the better option and it was good to make it back to my parents for haggis.

Introducing WINTER - 6 days in the Cairngorms - 29/11/12 to 4/12/12

2012-12-06T18:47:00.002+00:00

Approaching winter - Lochnagar

With perfect timing winter seemed to appear as I had two weeks off between jobs and a place to stay on the edge of the Cairngorms. A quick exploratory buzz up Miekle Pap on Lochnagar proved positive with the bulging granite plastered in snow and hoar and the exposed turf well exposed. The next evening Harry arrived from the Lakes and we set to sorting out a rack, interrogating the guidebooks and packing our bags. A relatively short sharp route proved most attractive, Magic Pillar on the Cathedral, an 80m IV5 holding to the Law of Kane that your going to be scared winter climbing so may as well get it out of the way early in the season and challenge your limits (this is at the upper end of what I have climbed before and Harry reassured me with his note that he had not really done much mixed climbing before).

Magic Pillar takes the grooved arete to the right of the black cleft just left of centre

Outflanking the roof at the start of the second pitch

A ramble up the lower broken ground added a 60m pitch before Harry took on the attractive groove pitch which seemed to rise ever more steeply above us as we approached, leaving me to outflank the capping roof and finish up the arete. After a lot of cleaning and some awkward moves to gain the niche Harry arrived at the belay. I first had to traverse out right on steep ground but with fantastic turf. It was then up left across a series of off balance shelves with marginal protection to gain the upper groove. Although an initial sick type II fun feeling had come over me, as the pitch went on the climbing became engrossing and the frost bound scenery ebbed in to my consciousness. All too quickly the plateau was there, but to take in the setting sun we made our way to the summit and took in the changing shades of the snow clad Cairngorms. Catching glimpses of our route as we descended a black snails track picked out what had been a very steep climb.

Our slug trail up the Cathedral on Lochnagar

Back down to Ballater we were joined by Rich who had headed up from Edinburgh for a trip out to the Hutchinson Memorial Hut and a tramp out in to the Cairngorms. An early start the next day and some pauses to pick up some logs to weigh us down for the walk in and we were in the Linn of Dee car park and starting to worry there may not be room in what is a very small hut. The walk seemed to go on forever but as did the Cairngorm scenery which is so difficult to explain in its beauty.

Approaching Derry Lodge

The Hutchison Memorial Hut

This was a new area of the Cairngorms for me and the mountain hut feel of our bothy was not to disappoint with Creagan a' Choire Etchachan rearing behind it and a refurbishment which was to allow a cosy night......as would the other 4 occupants (luckily the other two had a tent!). A return in summer or winter to take on some of the challenges that this stunning crag presents is now a must. After some intermittent sleep following a fine nights whiskey and chat we gathered together some motivation and headed out in to the white and up towards Beinn Mheadhoin. From Loch Etchachan it was out with the compasses and using the torrs, which intermittently emerged from the blizzards, as waypoints to take us to the summit. Reversing the procedure, breaks in the cloud started to form and the wild of the Cairgorms really showed itself. If not for the heat stripping wind and blasting spindrift I could have stood watching the changing scene forever.

Wild on the summit of Beinn Mheadhoin

Derry Cairngorm emerging out of the blizzards

Back to the bothy for tea and then the long walk out, but at least this time without a bag full of logs, and to an interesting night in Kincardine O'Neil with some great rock 'n' roll.

View down to Glenmore on the walk in to Coire an t-Sneachda

To continue the punishment to our bodies it was up to the Northern Corries for a wander and some more climbing. Sunday brought blue skies and a glut of climbers and ski-tourers out in to the northern Cairngorms so a mountaineering round of Coire an t-Sneachda taking in the Fiacaill Ridge seemed a good choice, not least due to the level of digging required on most of the routes. This gave a great chance to assess our challenge for the following days and take in the hulking Cairngorms and their deep troughs in all their splendour.

The striking lines of Savage Slit and Fallout Corner in Coire an Lochain

Walking down, as pastels shaded the snow clad hills, it was a night in the Aviemore SYHA to rest up for the walk in to Coire an t-Sneachda and the challenges it was to hold for us the next day.

The torrs of Ben Avon and Beinn Mheadhion

Fresh snow sapped at the legs and was driven in to our faces but as we entered the depths of the coire conditions seemed to ease and we waded our way up to the base of Fluted Buttress to take on its direct ascent, a widening chimney line. This was to be easier with ice but, as we were to find out this would be in short supply. Harry took us across the powder clad slabs to the base of the initial, steep, v-groove chimney. I then took the lead.

Person on the plateau surveying the fingers and a climber forming a slug trail towards the top of the lower chimney pitch on Fluted Buttress Direct

The route had been cleaned off the previous day and the lack of ice was immediately evident but blebs of turf offered encouragement. Progress was slow and the climbing felt a bit thin but protection came along when needed. As the chimney narrowed and steepened in to a v-groove of more limited options a smear of ice lining the back of the crack in which the groove terminated forced some delicate work but eventually allowed the beckoning turfy ledge above to be gained with a breath of relief that the reassuring thud of axe in turf provides.

Getting established in the initial chimney of Fluted Buttress Direct

Here the chimney widened and contained a number of snowy steps before I could 'relax' at the belay where the chimney branched. Harry came up and led through a series of steep, right slanting corners before cutting back left over a number of tricky steps. It then fell to me to move up to the left in a lovely gritstone style corner which lead to the crest of the buttress and then on to the top and a fine belay. A great route and a challenge in the conditions presented. The plateau was less hospitable than the previous day and we struggled back down in intermittent whiteout to the shelter of the car. Legs were now truly tiring from the deep soft snow but one more day beckoned.

In the upper grooves heading for the crest of Fluted Buttress

A cunning plan not to end up breaking trail in to the coire again saw a later start and following the tracks to whichever buttress they led. As it happened we caught up the trail breakers in the mouth of the coire and offered to share the work up to the Mess of Pottage and for us, Yukon Jack, now getting a taste for ice routes with no ice. This route had seen no recent ascents and I offered Harry the meaty first pitch and with it cleaning duties. From below the corner line looked attractive but I was only to appreciate its difficulties when I seconded up behind an exhausted Harry, having taken a decent fall off the last corner, below which he had taken a belay. The route so far had relied on thin hooks, some blind, and horrifically sloping 'footholds'. I was mildly shaken just seconding the climbing. Now, I was below where Harry had taken his fall and contemplating how not to give him an impromptu acupuncture session. First prospecting an escape on to The Hason Line, I realised that wasn't an option and so started a tentative investigation of the hooks, for what they were, in the corner which loomed above. One good hook allowed me to reach up and prospect further. No protection didn't inspire confidence and the old adage that the leader doesn't fall was ringing in my mind. A few strands of grass seemed to break the snows surface above. Pulling up on the one good hook and at full reach with my free arm I swung my right axe only to have it bounce with a spark off the bare granite hidden below the snow. Now, more tentatively, I swung my axe into the area just above where the angle eased and was thankful to find some thin turf. Now it was time for contemplation. Were my placements solid? What would I find above? What in the hell are my feet to do? With that I muscled my way up, scraping my left foot on the wall in front of me and swinging my right foot high to a reasonable ledge. Pushing away and up from my axes, in a semi-mantleshelf move, and rocking over on to my right foot I reached balance and started looking above for safety. No protection presented itself but cleaning off the snow revealed a line of turf following the continuation corner and negating the worry of the slabby granite which had to suffice for my crampons. Joining The Haston Line and a convincing turf peg allowed a break in concentration and some relief at having made it up the line as a team. Taking a belay on The Slant Harry and I decided we had had enough climbing for the day and took advantage of this fun way off the crag which always gives something of a mountaineering feel despite its position on a fairly diminutive crag.

The team

So, once more, round the coire rim and down to the ski car park again with some discussion of what grade we had actually climbed. This time though it was across the Lecht and back to Dinnet for me and back to the Lakes for Harry. Definitely time for a rest but hopefully for not to long before out in the hills again.

Goodbye Grit - 10 & 11/11/12

2012-12-06T16:19:00.001+00:00

So, at last it was time for me to leave Cambridge and migrate back to the north....well, Aberdeen anyway. And to say goodbye to the grit a full weekend was required. Of course the grit is not sentimental and so rightly so The Peapod of Curbar unceremoniously spat me out once again but only after draining all the energy I had in my possession. This meant that a more typical weekend ensued with many climbs well within my grade and a fair few pints in the Three Stags Heads. The standout climb of the Saturday was a return to the fun slab and steep arete of The Brain in the disputed ground of Frogbar and Curbatt.

Laurence leading up the fine arete of The Brain at Frogbar

Hangovers in check it was time to head for Stanage and help out Vincent who was glad to see us with his many new climbers to the club and too few leaders or racks. As always Stanage proved full of classics not climbed before yet Vincent managed to find anything but a classic of which the name fails me but a picture can speak a thousand words............

Follow the rope........

So that was my last trip from Cambridge to the Peak with the club and now my local crags will be in the Cairngorms and yet I will miss it. Hopefully a few of the CUMC

Myths, Legends and Grit - 25-8-12

2012-10-13T20:38:00.000+01:00

Anyone who knows Goldie will have heard of a multitude of his friends, the names of which mean nothing to the uninitiated. Some may even have started to believe that they did not exist and in fact only occur in myths and legends. This was a weekend when I at last met Greggor, Hauke, et al. and it turned out that yes these people were as friendly as Goldie had always made out. It started, as all great trips to the Peak should, in the Three Stags Heads and with one or two too many pints of Black Lurcher (possibly one of the mistakes that Dave MacLeod suggests 9 out of 10 climbers make).

So, with hangovers charged and in a swarm of midges the like of which you might expect in the NW Highlands of Scotland we trundled down to Burbage. After as much faff as I could manage......in part in tribute to the imminent departure of Goldie and in part as an effort to allow the hangover to subside it was time to take the plunge and try to add to my summer of E1's (ok, well, this would be my second). And so it was I was stood a the bottom of a seeping Long Tall Sally.

After slipping off the first few moves which were still wet I managed on the second attempt to get established. So well established in fact that I made little progress! But eventually with consternation over every move, checking of gear, cursing that I had placed the gear in the holds, and when all else failed just manning TF up I made progress. After what seemed like an age and a lot of sweating I rolled exhausted on to the top after an intense 12m of climbing with faint memories of a cry of 'long tall sissy' drifting up from below.

Zeb then dutifully made me feel better about my climbing by struggling his way up behind me. This set a bit of a trend for the day and put me in mind of a suitable subtitle for Zebulon 'top roper' Levine. After a few more routes at Burbage the call went out that only means one thing - find those reserve cans of MTFU, open them up and head across to Higgar Tor. For me this meant seconding one route (my MTFU was all used up) but those more talented among us ticked the Rasp, the File and a few more classics.

Goldie saying farewell to Grit and a fair amount of skin on the File

A bit more Arctic - Lofoten 14 to 22/8/12

2012-10-13T19:54:00.001+01:00

Approaching Moskenes

The previous evening the ragged skyline, raised across the sea and framed by silhouetted islands and skerries which guard the coastline around Bodo, had been glowing in the late night sun as it dipped below the horizon. Now the ferry was approaching Moskeness in the south of the Lofoten Islands and the mountains were sweeping up from the sea in vast slabs of granite which cut deep in to the crisp blue arctic sky. This was where we were to be climbing for the coming week and yet I was intimidated already by the sublime beauty of these apparently uncompromising mountains.

On the way back down from Bare Blabaer with climbers still on the well defined groove and crack line of Bare Blabaer

The road snaked north from Moskeness, rising over inlets and dipping down through tunnels. We were aiming for Hennigsvaer which was going to be our base for the week. Lofoten is known for it's rain, but this was not what we were to be treated too. Five days of continuous climbing saw us climb from classic to classic whether it was seaside crags or day long mountaineering routes. The list went on: Bare Blabaer, Pianohandler Lund's Rute, two forays to Paradisset (with Butter Fingers and Dashboard Light providing the highlights), Gandalf, Golum and the Nordryggen of Vagakallen. Now I just need to head back with a few more grades in hand as I think that E2 would be the grade to start oppening up even more of the classics and it would be worth a return visit if just for Vestpillaren on Presten.

Bare Blabaer and Gandalf

Paradise at Paradisset

Pyramidal Saxifraige

Storepillaren and Butter Fingers at Paradisset

On the way up Vagekallen's Nord Ryggen

Within Vagakallen's granite architecture

The final obstacle before a scramble to the summit of Vagekallen

Summer so far (yep, we have actually been climbing)

2012-07-24T09:11:00.001+01:00

So it was off to Greenland which saw the end of Scottish winter but certainly not the end of winter for me with a brisk -43 (well, off the scale). A few more peaks also with Parnas, Gulehorn, Kathedralen and the north top of the Pothorst Bjerge in Jameson Land and a foray in to the Stauning Alper on Snekuppel (1480m).

Another fine day in East Greenland (view west from point 850, above Permdal)

Back to summer and back to rock and a fine list of crags:

Bamford; and the strenuous Gunpowder Crack, with its tricky 5b start, and the classics of Gargoyle Buttress and Brown’s Crack gave a great day or Howie, Vidya and myself,

On the final photogenic moves of Gargoyle Flake

Froggatt esoterica; starting, after a bit of a search, at Tegness Pinnacle which gave a great start to the day before moving through some great routes on the more isolated and secluded cracks and buttresses which eventually led us to a few of the more classic lines with Howie making a fine lead of Motorcade,

Atop the Tegness Pinnacle

The Lakes; with Tophet Wall and Eagles Nest Ridge Direct offering the introduction with Zeb and Drew, a brief adventure in to a sport(ish) quarry in the evening to meet up with Harry and a run up the Troutdale Pinnacle Superdirect to beat the weather before beating a retreat back south to Cambridge after a great weekend,

Zeb starting up Tophet Wall

Stanage; with Cold Turkey and Cave Arete suggesting I might be ready to push my grade,

Dovestones Tor; saw a good turn out from the CUMC on a baking hot day with Ursula, Drew, Zeb, Goldie, Ramsay, et al. and a chance to make that leap to E1 with the ‘easiest E1 on grit’, Lancaster Flyby. Dutifully dispatched it led on to some amazing climbs including Great Buttress, Thread Flintstone and Route 1 by the Shylock Finish.

Harborough Rocks; yes, I like grit and this was not going to change my mind but nice to catch up with Vincent once more and then carry on for some classics at Birchen in a midge infested evening.

Birchen; a midge infested evening still better than limestone and ticking a few I have previously missed (Hammock, Captain’s Perogative) and providing a nice introduction to grit for a very keen Dutchman – more keen to get to the pub after he discovered the Black Lurcher at the Three Stags Heads,

Almscliff

Almscliff; why have I never been there before! Fluted Columns, Square Chimney & Whisky Crack, The Traditional Climb, Demon Wall and to finish, the stunning Overhanging Groove which I just managed to hold on to……unlike Demon Wall.

Overhanging Grove at Almscliff

Stanage; again to round off the gritstone training for Arjan with The Flange providing the highlight for me and a good lead of Central Trinity from Arjan,

Stanage

Pass of Ballater; provided another great day of climbing in the north with Medium Cool challenging the nerve and leading to some intense ‘savouring’ in a slightly damp state and Lucky Strike and Little Cenotaph showing just how much quality there is in the pass and much more to come back to. A midsummer blizzard on Lochnagar and it was off to,

After 'savouring' the slab of Maximum Cool, Pass of Ballater

Sandwood Bay; could be the best climbing location in the world and a lazy climb up Marram made the finale to an amazing weekend camped in the dunes.

Best view from any climb in the UK?

On the second pitch of Marram

Then I was to miss the annual meet to Cornwall with another trip to Greenland. Oh well.

Alpine Hawkweed

A winter finale - Tower Ridge 19-2-12

2012-03-07T20:54:00.000+00:00

Of course climbing Tower Ridge, one of the longest winter climbs in Scotland, was a great idea for the Sunday weather window before having to be back south for work at 9:00 on Monday morning in Cambridge! Well, at least it would allow a fun evening in Aberdeen and a re-familiarisation with Beanachie before the approaching blizzards took hold and sent me south to Edinburgh to pick up Rich and make our plans for the trip west to Ben Nevis.

Opening skies as we approached the base of Tower Ridge

The guidebook recommendation of 6-10 hours was a little off-putting but with an early start and the good weather forecast we were feeling confident. So to make the 6:30 alarm call a little more palatable we decided to head across for a park up in the north face car park. I was looking a little doubtful that we would make it as the car park as the A9 grew narrower with fresh snow encroaching on the tarmac. Blizzards continued to threaten our progress as we wound our way through from Dalwhinnie to Laggan but after what seemed like far longer than was reasonable we drew in to the car park and quickly crawled in to our sleeping bags, excited with what the next day was going to offer. We weren’t to hear our alarm, being woken by the early starters sorting their climbing kit, which must have consisted entirely of hexes (cow bells) by the noise that was being made.

Our early start was no longer dependant on an alarm and we soon found ourselves striding up the steep path, in the faint light of what passed for morning, through the forested slopes towards the Allt a’Mhuilinn. In fact, pretty soon Rich found himself striding on boldly alone as I found my hill legs somewhat lacking. I think I covered up for this well though with the suggestion that I was just warming up and trying to avoid injury!

The North Face appearing from behind the swirling cloud

As the north face reared in to view to our right the assembled ramparts, ridges and corries appeared and then were again shrouded in the swirling clouds. Behind us patches of blue were allowing a blush of pink on to the snow topped hills to the north. The weather that we had been hoping for was on it’s way. Unfortunately so to were what now seemed like every climber in Scotland so we quickly made our way past the CIC Hut and round the imposing Douglas Boulder to the shallow gully leading up to the Douglas Gap where a short chimney leads up on to Tower Ridge. One pair were already there but we were happy to let them carry on while we lost ourselves in the views out in to Coire na Ciste with ant like dots crawling across its floor and fluted cornices draping the coire rim.

Coire na Ciste

Climbers on Smith's Route

With the team ahead out of sight and a gaggle of French, light and fast climbers past we drew our attention back in and I took the lead up the steep chimney which led to the ridge crest. Furnished with deep, secure holds in summer it was now time to trust these with axes in hand. In fact wool clad hands were often a better option until near the top after some awkward moves the axes bit in to some re-assuring nevé. To speed our ascent and to try to be nearer the 6 than 10 hours predicted by the guidebook I was just going to run out the rope once up the chimney, but time had to be taken once on the ridge proper which was now bathed in bright sunshine. The huge gouged corries dropped away to the left and right, the walls of which hold classic climb after classic climb defined by the ribbons of blue, with occasional ragged edges of icicles hanging from shadowy overhangs. Zero, Hadrian’s Wall, Point Five, Smith’s all with black specks clinging to their blue tiers. The occasional shout and rattle of gear giving away their positions in the still clarity of the winter air.

Hadrian's Wall

Running out the rope on the easy ground along the ridge crest I decided Rich might want a firm belay for the initial step chimney and took a stance when the rope cam tight. Rich made short work of the chimney despite finding it pretty tricky. We carried on along the beautifully sinuous snow ridge which led to the second steepening and with a traverse right, then leftward trending climbing up steep, blocky but secure ground led us to the next easing in the ridge which ran up to the base of the little tower. The climbing had offered little in the way of technical difficulty so far but the variety, building exposure and lack of secure runners made me welcome a break. Taking a seat I happily took in the ropes and waited for Rich to appear back on the ridge crest. Another great excuse to take in the ever opening panorama.

Rich following up the ridge to below the little tower

After a chocolate bar and a swig of water I was off upwards once more. We were making good time but I did not want to relax with much of the difficulties forecast for the upper reaches of the ridge. The left side of the little tower looked most attractive with a series of rocky steps and intervening snowy ledges. First though was an awkward flake which would cause a few problems for Rich, especially with just one crampon. I would be oblivious to the problems unravelling below until our next meeting when my nerve found the solace of a large block just below the summit of the little tower a welcome break. The snow on the ledges had a disappointing inconsistency but added interest to the climbing, especially when combined with iced an unreceptive cracks and the increasing drag of the ropes. Some awkward steps led up to a low angled left facing corner which thankfully held an ice smear, which unfortunately prohibited gear placements. A step out right on to steep snow slopes and I could edge my way to the beckoning block belay out to the right. After some time Rich arrived, shaking his head and telling of his ordeal at the difficult flake, crampon flailing loosely from his foot. He had managed to retrieve and skilfully re-attach it, but unfortunately left my hex and sling which admittedly, I had placed high and hammered in. Perhaps this skill with crampons was the benefit of having, so many times, donned crampons and gear far too late after the approach up the ever steepening slopes which tend to lead to winter climbs.

Trying to find protection on the Eastern Traverse

A couple of short steps and we were on the next easing with the Great Tower now rising above us. An added air of impregnability had drifted in with the cloud which now shrouded the summit. However, the airy Eastern Traverse provides the path past this bastion. Moving up to the base of the tower I found a runner at the start of the traverse and took Rich up so as he would have a grandstand view of the worrying moves that lay ahead. Once engaged on the traverse the absorbing nature of winter climbing soon allowed the exposure to drift from my mind but in the initial steps down the short snow slope which ends abruptly, hiding the sheer drops below, it takes all my effort to push the dizzying drops from my mind. The enjoyment increased with a couple of solid runners which sent the rope looping back to Rich. Soon I was round the corner and making my way up the secure snow slope beneath which lay the summer through route behind a huge chock-stone which was just visible through the snow. A further short traverse and an old peg signalled time for a direct climb. The steep, and in places undercut, blocky steps that led upwards required some technical climbing but here the snow was consistent and good ice could dribbled over the lip of each step. The traverse and steep climbing which followed were the highlight of the climb so far, offering such contrast on secure axe placements. Finding a good belay was a different matter and eventually I found a reasonable pair of nuts and after resolving a few rope problems Rich joined me. Now there was just Tower Gap to go.

The ridge narrows to about two feet with Tower Gap forming a 3m deep slot separating the ridge from the final rocky steps and sweeping snow slope which leads to the summit plateau. Cliffs and snow slopes plunge away to either side, so after some careful steps I was glad to reach the large blocks which mark the start of the 3m down-climb in to the gap itself. A sling round the large block gave some added confidence but luckily in this section of leading the rope is above and it is the second who, as Rich was to find out, will have to suffer if a slip occurs. Axes placed in solid nevé at the lip of the gap, I leaned out, smearing my right foot on a snow dusted wrinkle. Ah, there was the foothold for the left foot. Now there was enough security to reach out right and get a balancing axe placement before lowering down on to the square cut blocks which floor the gap. Happy with my avoidance of the congregation of old slings and cord which is often used to ease the down-climb I made the tricky moved to exit the gap directly and took up a belay below the final rocky step.

Rich approaching Tower Gap

Now it was Rich’s turn and he made his way along the narrowing ridge and tentatively peered in to the gap. Reaching a good position with axes placed and feet on holds on the walls of the gap, with a sudden jerk, he was gone. An axe had ripped out and he was now swinging above Glover’s Chimney. Luckily no harm had been done but it transpired that his axe had not ripped but rather his hand had slipped out of his glove, and in turn the wrist loop of the axe, which had been thrown upwards and with lightening reactions Rich had then caught the axe as it fell past him. Not a graceful decent, but effective. Brushing himself down Rich quickly and with a hint of anger at the misfortune made his way up to the belay to take a rest.

‘Well, at least you caught your axe’, consoling ourselves that things could have been worse. Placed his luckily retained axes below the belay Rich highlighted their presence and reminded me to not kick them off down in to the abyss. A miscalculated movement and Rich set one of his own axes dancing off down the slopes. Bugger. Not ideal but all we had left was a small rocky step and then a final continuation of the ridge before the steepening snow slopes led to the summit. The steepening final slopes added a final excitement to the route, on perfect and receptive snow, but I thought Rich might quite appreciate one of my axes and so sent one down on the rope, asking that he tried not to lose this one (OK, I didn’t ask this as I thought it would be far to mean – remarkable self restraint!).

Both lying on the plateau the exhaustion of our seven hours of climbing required a moments rest but was tempered by the elation of another day spent as I wish I could spend every day – among the ever changing beauty of the mountains. The earlier blue skies and sparkling sunlight which had thrown the earlier mountain scene in to breathtaking focus, with every shimmering ice crystal perfectly sharp, had now succumbed to lowering cloud. Looking across the plateau all that greeted us was white. Rich took over navigation allowing me to rest a little after leading the climbing. Soon and with fantastic skill we were following the line of cairns towards the zig-zag tourist track. Luckily our reliance on a single torch was not tested on the climb itself as with the orange glow of Fort William casting upwards on to the darkening sky I decided it was time to excavate our single torch from my bag and set it to work in helping find the ‘path’ across the morass towards Allt a’Mhuilinn. A brief flicker, then nothing! However, we were soon over the river and back to the van and on the way south to Edinburgh before an all to brief sleep and a futile attempt to make it back to Cambridge for work at 9:00. Oh well, some weekends are well worth it and this had been one of them for sure!

Return of Winter

2012-02-06T22:19:00.003+00:00

It seemed like winter was back, we had been rock climbing in snow so now it was time to scour the forecasts and keep in constant contact with the Highland weather station (my parents house). Consecutive overnight lows of -5 at 100m gave enough hope to make the trip north for a long weekend. First picking up Kane and then Andy we made the long trip north of Inverness with a classic forecast and the hope of a new route awaiting. Just the one oversight came to light as I realised I had forgotten any music for the 9 ½ hour drive. All was not lost and we resolved to take all local radio stations along the way which would give us an interesting soundtrack. We arrived at my parents at 2:00 am, straight to bed and up at 6:30 for an early start on the long approach to Alladale. This we eased with bikes but my borrowed option would have been more suitable for a child with its diminutive frame. Nonetheless I was glad of it on the way back.

The snowy coire at the west end of Alladale

The ground was well frozen boding well for ice conditions. A lovely silence, the type you only get with an extended period of hard frost, filled the glen and the pink of the sunrise topped the valley sides and was cast across the snow clad back wall of the coire contrasting with the pure blue above. Ice smears dribbled down the glacially smoothed Alladale Slabs which form the south side of the glen but as we started to see in to the gully which splits the slabs and had been our target it became clear that it had been too dry and only the top of the ice line had formed. It would have been possible to climb the line but it would not have done justice to what should, no-doubt, be a fantastic route when it does form.

It will form sometime

After a brief feeling of disappointment we turned our attention to the North Face of An Socach which held the intimidating Alladale Pillar and a trio of further routes named The Pimp, The Wimp and The Gimp. As we topped the lip of the hanging coire it seemed that the Gimp was to be the best formed and so we raced up to its base and started gearing up, as usual, on ground way too steep for comfort.

The foreshortened icefalls of The Gimp (we took the left to right slanting ramp round the arete to pass the lower thin icefall in the centre of the picture)

After arranging a turf peg belay I led out the first pitch, aiming for the base of the main ice fall. After 40m of thin ice, steep ground and one descent runner I was in need of a belay and judging the ice above to be on the thin side of reliable I cut out left to where I found two dubious pegs and a solid placement for my one remaining turf peg. It was then Kane’s turn to take the lead and he also decided that the lower icefall was not going to offer a route so traversed up and right to a hanging arête which had to be turned to access the upper ice fall. Some tough out of balance moves took him round on to the ice and out of view.


Kane trying to get axe placements on the mixed crux of The Gimp

Taking in the exposure on The Gimp

When it came to my turn to follow the technicality of the moves was eclipsed by the plunging exposure, accentuated by the off balance step round the arête allowing toes to teeter above the congregated icicles extending below. It was then up steep ice to a solid belay. Andy led on to the top and the desolate beauty of the plateau, equal in impact to the Cairngorms, from which the views opened up around the whole of the highlands and made descent a difficult decision to make.


.................nothing more need said (difficult to walk down in these conditions)

A slightly smaller version of the Cairngorms, atop An Socach

With hope was the only way to view the forecast for the next day but I convinced myself that the 75mph gusts would drop in to the afternoon and that Beinn Dearg was really not in the west. So obviously Penguin Gully was to be the target. An interesting route for its provenance as well as its quality, with its first ascent by Tom Patey and W.H. Murray, two climbers a generation apart, and two of the most inspirational writers on Scottish winter climbing. A good meal and an early night and we were leaving the car at 8:00 for the 10km walk up to the West Buttress of Beinn Dearg, which we had decided would be sheltered from the southerly winds. When Andy was upended for the second time it started to become clear that the winds were quite serious. But I still had hope and with a look in to the icy runnel of Penguin Gully I was committed.

The lower icefall, and icy runnel above, of Penguin Gully

Andy wasn’t feeling to well so made his way back down to the Van while I led on up the first steep icefall to access the lower gully. The predicted thaw meant quite a soaking when the gusts whipped the heavy shower of drips across the icefallwindslab meant my every last effort had to me made to kick in steps up the final few metres but over the top the wall was all I needed for a belay and with my feet braced behind it I took in the rope and revelled in exhausted reflection on the fantastic route we had just completed.

We walked out west following the familiar wall along the ridge before dropping back down to the forestry track before 3:00. Unfortunately this resulted in us making it to Inverness and a pub to watch the rugby (not a great result for Scotland – when will it be realised that Dan Parks should not be playing at international level!). It was then on to the Cairngorms for a final day of climbing before the drive south.

So, the answer to the question posed in the last paragraph came pretty quickly and lets hope Scotland fare a bit better this weekend. Anyway, this is not a sports blog but a climbing blog! So after the disappointment of the rugby we headed up to Aviemore and found a nice park up in the Sugar Bowl car park, just off the road up to the ski centre. An early start saw us making the amble around to Coire an t-Sneachda just after 7:00 with our minds set on Fluted Buttress Direct. Unfortunately we were pipped to it and after a bit of a wait we realised those in front of us were going to be there for some time and transferred with a leftward traverse in to Wavelength.

Gearing up below Fluted Buttress

Kane took the first pitch, taking a left slanting line across iced slabs and in to Twisting Gully where he found a belay. It was then Andy to take the lead, moving back right and through several corners before halting on a large ledge with an intimidating wall rising steeply behind him. Rope drag persuaded him that a belay was required and I realised that my position as a passenger on this climb was over and the gear was dutifully handed over to me for the next pitch.

Andy on the second pitch of Wavelength

The first obstacle was the steep wall above the belay. Two options could be seen; a series of fractures to the left, which Andy had looked at but only found rounded granite, and an awkwardly angled groove to the right. It was to the right I moved, past an unappealing corner to a sloping ledge with a steep crack above. Contemplating my next move, I eventually found a placement for a hex to ease my worry and then muttered those words I hate so much, 'watch me here' (not because I am about to do something spectacular and want an audience, but rather, I'm about to make a move I am unsure is within my ability and may follow it with a downward motion over which I will have no control). I placed my left foot up to the left of the crack, smeared on a rounded horizontal break in the granite. Finding some thin turf deep in the crack I embedded my left axe as far as I could, which only gave a remote feeling of security. Hooking my right axe in to a shallow vertical groove running down the right wall of the crack I started an awkwardly off balance rock over on to my left foot. My left axe was now at my waist, the turf in which it was embedded looking thinner and thinner. Wrestling to regain balance I reached up and hooked the block above, and to my joy, not only was it a good hook, there was turf! A sharp swing and the reassuring thud brought me relief and I pulled on up to a good ledge. As is so often the case, the joy of having made it through a crux encourages one on and it is only after another 10m that you realise that some gear would have been a good idea. The next hard section has arrived and it is still just protected by a hex which was now a worrying distance below. The line was now, however clear with a series of corners following a well defined groove towards the fracture line of Fluted Buttress Direct. The lack of good snow or ice continued to frustrate feet placements but good truf was always forthcoming at just the right moments. There was then a lovely step round an arete and in to the left branch of Fluted Buttress Direct. A few more moves and I started to worry about how much rope was left and made for a crack to set op a belay (it turned out I did have 2m to spare!). It had been a long pitch and I was now glad of the rest.

Worsening conditions on the belay

Above a well defined groove led up to a steepening boulder choked chimney and Kane was soon on his way up. Once he arrived at the steeper upper section the perspective seemed to change with 'steep' being less appropriate than overhanging, and the pauses for gear placement confirmed to me it's difficulty. Kane still made short work of it and was soon belaying just below the final ridge which led to the plateau. True enough, approaching the upper chimney was an intimidating experience but once established, solid hooks seemed to just keep on appearing and the enclosed nature of the climbing allowed bridging and lessened the exertion. However, with the sustained nature of the climbing we certainly agreed that the route did seem somewhat undergraded in the condition we found it.

Andy on the final pitch of Wavelength

With blizzards closing in Andy took on the short ridge to a sheltered final belay. Once there we quickly coiled the ropes and descended the goat track to in to the relative shelter of the coire. Stuffing the rucksacks full of all our kit we hurried back to the van and started the long drive south. Pulling in to Cambridge at 2:30 on Monday morning I was absolutely shattered but as always it was well worth it for three excellent climbs, and notable in their different styles and the variability in the accompanying weather. Another great weekend and enough to encourage the next trip after a weekends rest.

Winter Grit (29-1-12)

2012-02-06T21:56:00.001+00:00

Now if the forecast doesn’t look to bad but probably a bit chilly and potentially some snow on the ground, the obvious choice to me would be a north facing crag high up in North Yorkshire. So it was this badly flawed logic that saw us flying up the road to painfully harp gritstone on Rylstone, that is, after a half hour diversion just outside Cambridge.


Snowy Rylstone

There is not much to say about this tip other than it happened. The warm banter was about the only warmth available from which to draw solace, however watching others go through hot aches on short rock routes did provide some entertainment. Dental Slab was the focus of the group, only mildly perturbed by the thin ice smear at half height. Presidents Slab also went, but ice filled holds on the upper section of Castrol repelled an attempt at the second pitch.

Possibly not the best friction day on Dental Slab at Rylstone as Donald moves up past the ice smear

Then came the highpoint of the day……..leaving. Well, not just leaving, but making the short hop to Eastby, which turned out not to be the scrappy set of ribs and turf it appeared from the road but a set of towering buttresses of south facing, perfect, clean, warm gritstone (ok, maybe not warm). The highlight here was undoubtedly Pillar Rib but everyone squeezed in one more climb to finish the day on a high with the bonus of having visited a great new crag which will be well worth a return visit. Obviously the highlight of any trip to Yorkshire was the Wetherby Whaler on the way back south.

Eeking out some routes in a thawing Cairngorms

2012-01-12T23:00:00.000+00:00

The embodiment of enthusiasm in adversity

Having spent a whole two weeks waiting for the weather to improve it was clear that Christmas in the north was not going to be a classic for climbing, however a long standing plan to have Arjan visit for the last weekend of my holiday (7th-8th) for an introduction to Scottish winter climbing had me scouring the conditions blogs and weather forecasts for a glimmer of hope. I didn't find any, so with the only hints of a less bad location being east and high it was going to be the Cairngorms. Luckily Arjan's enthusiasm took over and his positive attitude to the dripping and sometimes flowing ice was extremely refreshing.

High winds looked like they could be a problem for Saturday but I had heard of a fair accumulation of ice on the lower and possibly more sheltered Lurchers Crag, towards the north end of the Lairig Ghru. A 6:30 start was decided upon due to the forecasted rising temperatures through the day. Excitement started to creep in as we left the sugar bowl car park, head torches on, and peering in to the darkness. Light was just starting to brighten the sky as we reached the Chalamian Gap and helped us across the tricky jumble of boulders which fill this perched glacial outwash channel. It was then in to the looming gouge of the Lairig Ghru with the clouds just above the base of the 3000ft high pass and just high enough to reveal numerous icy trickles descending through the impending crags.

Central Gully on Lurchers Crag looking quite promising

After some precarious boulder hopping we made it to the bottom of Central Gully which looked to contain the most promising ice line, sporting three clear pitches of which the topmost looked a serious challenge and certainly warranting the suggested elevated grade in lean snow conditions. Soloing up to the base of the first stepped ice fall the volume of running water was a little distressing but the hanging fangs of the tiered ice were to enticing to circumvent so with a cautious approach I started up the first pitch. Although a little insecure a couple of rock runners and the soft nature of the ice smoothed the way for enjoyment of the setting and the anticipation of the pitches that lay ahead. After moving up to the base of the next icefall Arjan took the lead, carefully testing the ice to find the most solid line, which a thicker ribbon, accumulated in a groove on the left side of the icefall, provided, even allowing a couple of only slightly suspect ice screw placements. Following up this pleasantly angled but fairly sustained pitch the next obstacle came in to view, holding within a spectacular array of ice fringed bulges with a depth of blue that tells of better ice than we had yet encountered.

Taking a direct line up the upper ice fall

Starting below the dripping and thaw contorted icicles to the left encouraged rapid progress (to get in to the dry) as did the sinking axe placements and the the steep angle of the ice. This was however, the sort of pitch it is tempting to abseil back down and climb again. Unfortunately it was over all to soon despite needing to use the rope stretch to reach a very secure belay round a massive granite block. Untying, we made our way up the last 100m of turf and patchy snow to meet the icy blast that awaited on the plateau. Descending the spur to the north allowed us to miss the blocky recceses of the Chalamain Gap. Once below the cloud base the land out towards the Monadhliath seemed alight with blaze of low sunlight streaming through the clouds but by the time we regained the van darkness had begun to fall.

Some beer and good food and it was time to bed down for a 6:00 start to Sunday, trying to snatch something from worsening climbing conditions. By 8:30 we were standing below the Mess of Pottage in Coire an t-Sneachda trying to figure out what might be in condition. The comment from a fellow climber that the Haston Line had a tricky tech. 5 crux in lean conditions stripped some of my enthusiasm but after some encouragement from Arjan I managed to convince myself that the thin smears of ice may offer some help rather than just blank out all the cracks for any protection.

The Haston line takes a rising traverse line across the Mess of Pottage during which a tricky notch behind a small pinnacle has to be threaded before the crux corner is surmounted and easier ground follows on to the top. Arriving at the crux the build up of snow on the sloping ledge was of little help in decreasing the height of the awkward corner which lay ahead. After some contrivance a couple of nuts were worked in to some less than perfect cracks....,best only worried about if falling entered the equation. I started reaching up to investigate where my axes might get purchase. Fantastic - one slotted in to a helpfully crack and just lodged, in a way that inspired confidence And it was going to have to as the next move required laying away off the axe, walking my feet up the left wall, and then bridging out right before I could find the next placement. The few millimetres of ice smeared down the walls of the corner actually made the footwork feel relatively secure and eventually I was in a fairly strong position even if mid crux, escape being by an off balance step out left on to what now seemed like a reassuringly icy slab (up to 1/2 a centimetre of ice in some thin ribbons), it seemed like a good time to sling a spike. Bugger one sling was trapped round my back, entangled in my rucksack - right leg, smeared on thin ice, starting to shake, suddenly not entirely happy - eventually a runner was on the spike and I could stop shaking and move on. Leaving one axe in place and finding a decent hand hold it was possible to work my left foot up on to the slab and rock over to reach to the reassuring thud of an axe finding frozen turf. Feet working their way across the thinly iced slab and axes eventually finding greater and greater quantities of turf, ice and snow I soon made it up to the belay and brought Arjan up.

Arjan, again seemed to enjoy the challenge and was soon continuing upwards to investigate the possibilities above. First going right and looking in to Hidden Chimney where he found a gaggle of climbers, hidden, clinging to what looked like not much in the way of snow or ice. So a traverse left and up The Slant was in order which took us to the lip of the coire and out on to the plateau. Blown back down the hill and making it back to the van by 1:30 we knew that we had made the best of the conditions and Arjan had had 'an' introduction to Scottish winter climbing if not the best introduction. A relaxed drive south saw us in the flat lands before midnight and already chatting about the next trip. A return of winter will certainly be required before then though.

Seana Bhraigh - The Northern Corries of the the north?

2011-12-31T18:05:00.004+00:00

With the weather having descended in to the kind of crap that only the north of Scotland knows how, Friday (30th) looked like the only potential day for getting out for some winter climbing. A fair frost was forecast and so somewhere that had received, and retained snow had to be the target. With a thirst for adventure the obvious choice was some climbs on what is often considered the most remote Munro in Scotland, Seana Bhraigh. A mere 1/2 hour from my highland retreat belies the 15 km approach for which a bike was going to be essential, even if that available to me was far too small for my 6'5" frame. After the painful approach and the skillful employment of a pair of ice axes in the repair of a bike chain we topped the moraine bound lip of the coire through which a torrent had cut down from the loch above. A promisingly wild wintry scene greeted us with the pillar of An Sgurr thrusting up to our left and the snow wreathed crags and gullies filling the panorama round to our right.

The first glimpses on the long approach, An Sgurr on the left

Although ice was beginning to form it was only present as thin smears and trickles; concern was also in mind over the somewhat damp turf. Certainly not a day to be trying anything new but rather go with a safe choice which the classic Sunday Post would hopefully provide. Sunday Post is the left of two prominent gullies that cut straight up the central buttress of the coire.

The buttresses on Seana Bhraigh through which Sunday Post takes the the left of the two prominent gullies on the left hand side of the photo

Making our way up to the base of the twin gullies we were confronted with some significant and thankfully old avalanche debris with boulders of hard neve containing turf and rocks scattered across the scoured gully floor. The neve made for good early progress on which we soloed up to the first step. Setting up a belay, I let Dave lead on up the first pitch which instantly told of what we were in for with crusty snow, behind which water was often running, hollow ice and the occasional but always crucial patch of neve, rock and usable ice which allowed progress. This was a day for learning and one which the grade was of little meaning. Four 50 m pitches took us to a scramble through the cornice and a confrontation with the incoming stormy front and the impending darkness. Each pitch offered something of interest and little meaningful gear but the situation and solitude were breathtaking. The sustained nature of the climb can rightly be seen as making it a classic, when in condition but in the condition we found it it had to be considered as an adventure rather than a classic.

Soil and rock filled neve from previous avalanches, Sunday Post

Some slow progress saw us summit at around 3 and a real feeling of distance and isolation descended as did we, trying to make the most of the fading light. Eventually the head torches became essential and we plodded on through the snow line and in to the darkness. Rising temperatures and the snow which had fallen throughout the day provided a remarkable landscape, seething with water, intensified in the light of a headtorch. Approaching lights gave hope of a lift down the glen and out of the now driving rain but it was just a party heading for the Coiremor Bothy. After the shouting of pleasantries across the raging torrent of the Corriemulzie River (pronounced - corrymoylie) we stumbled uppon our bikes and all that remained was the prolonged soaking which passed for the cycle back down the glen, past the lodge and to the car.

Probably not the classic climbing experience but a fantastic adventure into one of the most remote winter climbing locations in the Scotland and certainly enough to fuel a return trip under better conditions. A swift drive south to Torridon and continued rain seems the perfect setting to retreat in to a few beers and a couple of whiskys to see in the new year.

The not so Grim Industrial North - Wharncliffe

2011-10-31T20:22:00.000+00:00

Autumnal shades offset by the black rock of Wharncliffe

Well, if your not going to be catching a plane to Australia (damn you QUANTAS), what better way to spend your Sunday than once more hurtling up the M1 to the Peak District. OK so we seem to go to climb on the grit every weekend I hear you say but, alas...Wharncliffe is not grit - well either is grit but lets not get started with my geological axe which I have been grinding on a metaphorical millstone (possibly of grit) for too long. However, it has a slightly different stratigraphic position, within the Coal Measures, but it is still a sandstone (as is the grit) and it was laid down around the same time and in the same way. It does weather differently and therefore does give a steeper more crimpy style of climbing. It was my second trip there and it certainly had more to give.

Drew belaying on the Great Buttress

As we arrived we were surprised to be met by those that departed early from Cambridge returning from the crag telling tales of great grimness and generally naysaying (although some naysayers claimed later, never to have said nay). So it was time to galvanise the troops and steady the rout - well, basically say it will be sunny and the climbing will be ace. Back up to the crag and using the path along the top, which avoids the grim and green boulder scramble below, we were soon on to the classics of Himmelswillen and Tower Face. And a trip to Wharncliffe just wouldn't be complete without a traverse of Puttrell's Progress.

Only able to get half in to The Crack of Doom

Showing a natural flare for the flared crack of Doom

It was then the north end of the north end of the crag that attracted me and the Great Buttress followed by its arete (with the help of Drew leading) soon fell. Ed also went on to take Trapezium and Photo Finnish, which my fingers gave up on. With tiring fingers it was time for the offwidth challenge of The Crack of Doom which was probably the highlight of the day, closely followed by Great Buttress Arete. Handover Arete and Jimmy Puttrell is a Legend finnished the day for my party as everyone else secumbed to the temptation of an offwidth struggle in to which most of the group were eventually swallowed up as the sun set and darkness surrounded.

Pete throwing himself in to The Crack of Doom in the impending gloom

A confusing walk through the woods back to the car and a fine selection of takeaways, with and without lights, in Stocksbridge before back down the well trodden M1 to Cambridge with talk of sea cliffs and limestone enough to get me praying for my fight to leave on Wednesday!

Impeccable technique, as ever from Laurence on the Crack of Doom

Curbar, Black Lurcher & Burbage

2011-10-31T19:26:00.000+00:00

Belaying atop the Cioch (no, not that one.........., at Frogbar)

After a week to recover it's about time to look back on the introductory meet. It does take about a week to recover from trying to organise over 50 climbers for a weekend trip to the Peak District.....and a similar amount of time for the body to recover from a night in the Three Stags Heads sampling their very fine Black Lurcher. Around 20 of us headed north for the whole weekend and were joined by a further 30 for the Sunday. As the Saturday was for new members to the club who had reasonable experience we plumped for the steep and intimidating walls of Curbar.

Just the place to encourage new members ( Straight Crack - Curbar)

Despite most of the group sticking round the classics of Peapod, Maupassant (a french author apparently), Bel Ami, Elder Crack, PMC 1 and Kayak Slab, which all saw attempts if not ascents a number of us decided to wander in to that middle ground of Curgott or Frogbar where the undergrowth gets wild and the holds become more rounded. This didn't mean lower grades, well, not for everyone, with John and Howie making a fine ascent of Overtaker's Direct and I was pretty happy with the fine technical climbing of Baron's Wall. Potter's Wall, Cioch Crack, Straight Crack, Calver Wall and Flying Buttress provided some interesting grit learning for the inexperienced.

A helping hand with the learning experience which is the top out on Cioch Crack at Frogbar

After finishing with the sun setting it was on to the Three Stags Heads to get the genuine CUMC weekend trip experience of pitching tents in the darkness, consuming the strongest beer you can find and trying to ignore they guy wearing a vest in the corner sharpening knives.

The effects of the Black Lurcher setting in with the hare brandishing the shotgun starting to make the most sense

Learning just how rounded a 'hold' can be on Potter's Wall

Sunday morning saw us standing at the Burbage North car park in a state of mild confusion and panic at the prospect of a further 30 freshers arriving but luckily the 'wing it' approach worked, even being mistaken by some, for preconceived plan. Almost perfect.....except for when I looked around to find myself lacking anyone to climb with. The roving helper role seemed to suite my mildly lethargic Lurcher induced state which eventually eased as the day went on allowing some fun leads for me and hopefully some fun climbs for the new members to the club. Ash Tree Wall provided my home for most of the afternoon and between a number of groups just about all the routes were climbed including Ash Tree Variations which gave me hope that I might actually be improving. It's almost impossible to sum up what 50 people did on a crag like Burbage for a whole day but I do know that it never seemed like we were swamping any of the areas and there seemed to be smiles everywhere when I walked along to shepperd folk back to the bus so all in all a very successful trip. I think that we may even returned with as many people as we left with. Thanks to Vincent and Ed for helping organise the trip and all those that helped with leading and making it a great weekend.

Brimham Rocks - oh yes, it does.

2011-10-24T20:03:00.002+01:00

Looking out over Brimham Rocks (photo: Ramsey Khalaf)

With Vincent making a great call on the location and weather it was some Yorkshire Grit that was on the menu for the second meet of term (16th Oct). There were three cars making the journey north and quite a few new members to the club. The first assault was on Birch Tree Wall with the eponymous route falling first to Ed and Felicity before I eventually made it up Right Wall which I am led to believe is not as hard as its Welsh brother. Meantime Vincent and Ramsey were deeply involved with Nameless Chimney. Drew was also in the area tying together a number of different routes in a fairly contrived but understandable way.

Ramsey following Vincent up Right-hand crack and Ed approaching the horrific top out of Central Crack

We then moved round to Cracked Buttress where we ticked all the lines (but not the Rich), with central crack proving the most fun (for those watching) with its horrendous thrutching top out.

No point hiding Ed, the top out ain't going anywhere

Ed demonstrating that alongside poise and technique he also can thrutch with the best of them

Not to miss out on the thrutching, udging and general traditional technique we were then followed round to the Fag Slab by Drew where he took on and eventually overcame the green tapering chimney of The Snuffer. Meanwhile the rest of the group went up Allen's Crack (snigger, snigger), Fag Slab, Fag Slab Variant, Fag End and Pig Traverse.

Drew trying not to get stuck, or for that matter unstuck on The Snuffer

With the day nearing it's end we finished off with some of the fun offered by The Cubic Block and it's always harder than the grade suggests starts.

A great day and some excellent new characters in the club. The only way to finish it off properly, and probably the main reason to go climbing in Yorkshire, was a stop at the Wetherby Whaler on the journey south. A week of hectic organisation and it was the Introductory Meet for the freshers - post to follow shortly.

Shadow in Cracked Buttress

First Meet of the New Term - Stanage and a Retreat to Birchen

2011-10-14T18:45:00.000+01:00

Sheltering under the tricky 5b start to Verandah Buttress - Stanage

A weather forecast for the optimists had us heading to the Peak District on Saturday. Quick drying had been my thought and so we plumped for Stanage. We completed one route, the oddly graded Verandah Buttress (HVD 5b), which set the precedent for the day of using teamwork to overcome the conditions,with both seconds utilising combined tactics of get off the ground. Vincent made an impressing ascent of a route to the right with few positive holds and ever increasing dampness. After taking some respite from the now swirling cloud and increasingly persistent rain we decided to retreat to the shelter of Outside in Hathersage and consider our position.

Eventually I went up to help out

We decided that Birchen offered a chance of some drier rock and if not some good damp-proof routes. Starting of with the everdry and classic Topsail and Sail Chimney we moved on to Sail Buttress and some more slaby routes on Trafalgar Wall which seemed to gain a serious edge in the damp conditions. The most fun was saved for last with Laurence starting to trust my advice on route choice he decided to have a go at Powder Monkey Parade, a route which is apparantly 'harder for the short who will have to dangle'. It had been quite a while since he got his foot firmly stuck while attempting to lead Hollyash Crack at Burbage, which I had advised him was an easy and fun route.

After some concerted udging and a fair bit of thrutching (techniques I wholeheartedly approve of) he made it up the initial v diff hanging chimney. This, for me is the toughest part of the climb. But then alas an unwillingness commit to the 'dangle' meant no further progress was going to be made. After much contribution of good advice from below, on the best options for extrication from the route, I decided that it best I climb on up and lead through while Laurence made himself safe by jamming in to the chimney. The fun of the traverse was offset by some worrying moves on the rather wet upper slabs but soon Laurence was following on and made it up to the top.

Laurence stepping out on to the traverse of Powder Monkey Parade

It was then Sian's turn to have next a go but unfortunately her thrutching techniques were not up to it and so the honour fell to Vincent who 'cut loose' with some wild moves to gain the chock stone before waltzing up the upper section. I think in the end we made the best of the conditions and certainly met Job's criteria for a worthwhile trip with most of us managing to climb more pitches than we had spent hours traveling to get there. Looking forward now to some hopefully drier Yorkshire grit at Brimham this weekend.

Vincent cutting loose with a wild thrutch and reaching for the udge before overcoming the cock stone in the v diff chimney

Old News, New Routes

2011-10-10T23:08:00.002+01:00

With winter approaching some of us have begun to think about the icy snow clad mountains and therefore started to flick through the guide-books to identify targets and potential adventures. So the new North Wales Winter Climbing guide was an obvious purchase during a recent wet weekend in Wales. It was with surprise that I saw a short route described which Juan and Drew had climbed in The Lost Cwm on the way to the Black Ladders back in the January of 2010. It was with even greater surprise that I noticed the first ascent date given as March 2010. We had considered this route and one adjacent, which Lucas, Rachel and I had climbed, as not likely to be of enough importance to be worth reporting. Obviously someone else had, and named the left hand route The Scoop (V4, 40m).

Juan towards the top of his new route and Lucas on the crux of his offering (Memory Fails) - 10/1/10

Enquiries have provided a contact to inform of the new routes for inclusion in the next edition of the guide. So a nice surprise of a new route for Juan and Drew which I think is likely to be nearer IV4 and awaits a possible re-naming (The Happiest Mexican in Wales). Furthermore the route led by Lucas gives a nice III3, tentatively named Memory Fails. This certainly helps to make winter feel closer and the blizzard of email checking who is prepared for the long drives north and the cold belay vigils has begun.

Adventures further afield - Climbers approaching Emerald Gully, Beinn Dearg, Wester Ross

Wet in Wales, scunnered in Scotland and ending up back In England

2011-10-04T16:30:00.080+01:00

Well, it's been a while since a post has been made so a title to sum up Septembers climbing was in order.

Idwall Slabs in rather damp conditions

The weekend of the 17th saw myself Rachel and James head to Wales to try to make the bast of pretty poor outlook across the whole of the UK. The Ordinary Route on Idwall Slabs, with some scary off-route slab crossings and intermittent waterfalls disgorging from the fissures which formed the climb, provided a wet weather option for the Saturday.

Waterfalls everywhere within the Dinorwig Slate Quarries

With deteriorating weather on Sunday we then put ourselves in the hands of the local girl Sian to lead us through the maze of Sakes and Ladders (and tunnels) in Dinorwig Slate Quarries which gave quite an adventure - scrambling through tunnels, aid climbing rusty chains of dubious attachment to the rock and climbing ladders of even more dubious attachment. A fantastic way to explore the industrial landscape and take in some views of some truly stunning looking rock routes to be re-visited in the dry.

James aid climbing up the chain out of Tazmania

Rachel and James beneath the first set of ladders

It was then up to Scotland for me and taking a Sunday (25th) afternoon out from Aberdeen with Alena, Nico and Christina (the night out previous mitigated an early start). With some impressive hitch hiking from Nico we all made it out to the Pass of Ballater for some fun routes on some perfect granite on the picturesque pine and larch clad hillside above the pass.

Readying for the climbs

The rain happily held off till the evening and allowed us up Jumbled Blocks Crack (VD), Razor's Crack (VS 4c) and Brut (VS 5a). Not bad for the first outdoor experience for most of the group, although some dubious ethics including some very interesting combined tactics were employed. It was great to climb with some new people and a really nice relaxing and fun day was topped off by our hitch hiking companion finding a lift back to Aberdeen with some friendly climbers we had got talking to on the crag.

Christina learning to belay with Nico keeping a watchfull eye on preceedings

Christina on the crux of Brute (VS 5a)

The next chance to get back to the rock was Friday (30th) and it was in to the Cairngorms with Rich to have a look at the classic Savage Slit in Coire an Lochain. Starting up the first pitch, the rock was drying, but once in to the compelling crack line it was clear that this was going to be no fun so extricating myself carefully we settled for a scramble up the Great Slab and eventually we made our way up on to the corrie rim.

Savage Slit takes the obvious corner up the centre of the buttress

Frustratingly we passed a team topping out from Fingers Ridge which looked to be dry, and sheltered from the gales that we thought may have ruled it out. However, the Northern Corries are a stunning place to spend a day exploring and so it was definitely not a waste of a day, instead just fueling the fire of interest in the sweeping summer lines available in this desolate range.

Looking south into the wilderness of the Loch Avon basin

Disappointment at the demise of Scotland in the Rugby World Cup on Saturday morning (1st) was offset by an enjoyable stop on the way south at Wainstones in the North York Moors and a chance to solo a number of routes while Rich and Nicola went for a run. The Needle and the Steeple gave some fun routes - up and down - alongside a number of other fun slabs and cracks. The Sphinx Nose Traverse will have to be returned for though as I decided the exposure may be a bit much for me on solo this time.

The Needle at Wainstones on the North York Moors

One last stop on Sunday afternoon (2nd) to introduce Rich and Nicola to the 'joys' gritstone for which we chose to explore the classics of Stanage. Flying Buttress was the perfect introduction which we followed up with the steep, for V. Diff., Hollybush Crack. I wanted to push the gritstone experience with a move on to Hargreave's Original Route on the Black Slab but unfortunately the lack of positive holds deterred Rich. Nonetheless it was good to grab a few more climbs on the way back to the ever flat East Anglia and a surprisingly enjoyable trip in to London the following day.

Stanage Advance Party

2011-07-11T18:20:00.001+01:00

With all groups from the CUMC intent on Stanage Popular for the weekend it fell to Tanya and I to warm up the crag on Saturday prior to the larger group descending on Sunday. Arriving at 9:00 after an early start it seemed sensible to take advantage of the Black Hawk area with Black Hawk, Black Hawk Hell Crack, Gargoyle Variant and an excursion to Crack and Corner providing the warm up to Eliminator.

Atop Eliminator

Eliminator proved to be a climb of two halves, the lower technical crux and the upper physical crux. The technical lower crux required commitment to a move with the feeling of an assured barn door as you pull up on a thin crimp on the arete with feet on the ledge where the gear is staring up at you rather uncomfortingly. The next horizontal break reached and a perfect cam placement to calm nerves, the next move was to walk the feet up the arete before stretching up for the base of the short vertical crack which can just about provide some restful hand jams while some more peace of mind could be placed. With strength rapidly failing it was then time to get hands in to the top of the crack and feet in to the base before pushing upwards and going for the next break and hopefully a rest. DAMN, missed the hold. To far right. Not even a sloper. Moving back down with strength almost gone. One more try. NO. Bugger. Rest. Oh well, after giving forearms a little time to recuperate it was worth another go. This time in something approximating technique a tenuous swap of feet in the hold at the base of the crack allowed the move to be made with less energy and I was all of a sudden at the next break with the previously missed hold, a locker. Quick gear and then up to the rail on the lip of the ledge which heralded a proper rest and the end of the difficulties. So much climbing in 14m. That's why grit is special and can give such classic lines. Will be coming back to this to climb it clean. Can't wait.

Tanya on Hollybush Crack, her last lead on Grit for a while

A rest over lunch and then it was Tanya's turn on the classic Hollybush Crack before being repelled from Leaning Buttress Direct and Central Trinity by other parties we moved round to the fun of Zigzag Flake-Crack which I had been warned was poorly protected. Instead I found plenty of cam placements and a very enjoyable climb with classic grit moves in beautifully exposed situation. Heading back round to the bags Leaning Buttress Direct was now free so it was time to ratify the 5b club card once more. The bouldery start was extremely bold with what would have been an awkward landing but luckily I didn't test this and after the first move sketched my way up to the ledge at around 3m where at last some good protection could be found. It then proved equally hard to move on once more from the ledge but the protection was excellent and inspired confidence in the slopy holds available. Soon the technical difficulties were past and the bold rounded upper half of the climb unwound on perfect rock complimented by a complete lack of protection. However, rock of such quality would probably be insulted by the need to protect climbing on it. Tanya arrived at the belay just as my alarm was ringing calling me back to Cambridge and a rowing outing which I would arrive just in time for.

Eight great climbs and a good farewell to another climbing partner, heading back south to South Africa (the way of university mountaineering clubs). A strange coincidence had meant that Tanya seemed to be my partner on the hardest climbs that I have managed so hopefully she will be back to visit for some more hard grit again.

A relaxed day at Stanage

2011-07-11T13:53:00.004+01:00

A large CUMC crew gathered at Stanage Popular on Sunday, as I wanted a last gritstone fix before heading to the US for some proper mountains.

My friend Erin was visiting from the US, and Sarah and I started the day by taking her up Flying Buttress Gully, which she seemed to enjoy. Vincent and Jen meanwhile tackled a crack climb just to our left (climber's left).

Erin's first rock climb

Goldie and I then took turns leading folk and teaching belays on Leaning Buttress Indirect, always an enjoyable climb. Meanwhile Adam led Hangover, an overhanging finger crack, on the other side of Leaning Buttress, which looked a bit damp as well.

Igor had a shoulder injury but was very keen to get out of Cambridge for the day, so spent much of the time testing out his new hand-made gear. Some climbers were a bit perturbed and chased him away, despite his availability to make tea for anyone who ventured up nearby routes and wanted a half-way rest.


But what have you done on grit?

I spent the rest of the day leading Erin up Vdiff's and Severes and generally enjoying the quality of the routes at Stanage. Sunshine prevailed for most of the day and we ended the day making a team effort on a HVS (Good Friday) a bit further along, that involved a classic series of toe-ledges and oddly-positioned cracks, then a huge roof which none of us quite managed to finish.

Go Jen!

Now why would anyone try to lead something like that (Good Friday).

A fun day out; three beginners who had a great day and were eager to climb again; and motivation to get stronger and more bold.

Lakes north faces

2011-07-07T18:45:00.010+01:00

There is only so long that cragging can suffice so it was with one converted and one, to be converted, sports climbers that I headed to the Lakes for some multi-pitch climbing, setting off obscenely early on Sunday morning. The early start paid off though and we arrived in Keswick by 10:00 and picked up supplies and advice (from Harry).


Eagle and Grey Crags in Burtness Combe

Taking our supplies and advice we headed over to Buttermere which would provide a base for Sundays climbing on Eagle Crag in Burtness Combe on High Stile and the following days ramble over to Pillar. Our first objective was Eagle Front but we were made to wait as we converged on the route with two other parties. This allowed a leisurely lunch below the crag admiring the huge corner which forms the dramatic final pitch of the route. It also allowed Goldie and Adam to catch up after a mammoth drive and take advantage of our guidebook get on to some of the sun drenched classics of Grey Crag, opposite our shady north face.

The open corner of the final pitch Eagle Front dominating the crag

Felix took on the first pitch which followed a line of ribs furnished with rough and giving holds up to a rock ledge. This provided the ideal warm up for the rest of the climb. The next pitch was mine and it took a winding line trough a series of awkward ledges and bulges, often resulting in difficulty to feel in balance. Another spacious ledge was reached with the views out below opening before us. It was also possible to just make out Goldie and Adam on the opposite crag, with their voices occasionally carried across on the gentle breeze. Soon though it was time to take on the steep groove above which opened to a committed approach and led to a series of grassy ledges. Following the ledges leftwards I realised that I had missed the belay and was heading to the base of the next pitch. Shouting down to Felix and Delphine, I enquired as to their like of grassy traverses. Felix understood and realised a scary seconding experience was about to be delivered but Delphine was to have the realisation en-route.

Felix and a disembodied Delphine happy on the peg belay of Nail Ledge

My lead again and it was up steep and exposed ground with some enjoyably technical climbing until it was possible to traverse rightwards to a peg belay (Nail Ledge) from which two of the pegs had snapped off leaving me with a sideways nut and the two remaining rusty pegs to secure myself on the sloping belay ledge. Afterwards by sport climbing tinged partners were surprised at my distaste for this halfway belay as they seemed to consider in-situ protection as a good thing but I had my doubts. Heading out on the next pitch a long traverse rightwards opened up some spectacular exposure and some complex climbing which eventually landed me at the bottom of easier water worn slabs leading up to the base of the now impending final corner of the climb.

Looking back down to Delphine and Felix from the final pitch of Eagle Front

Beautiful climbing on both walls and within the central crack of this magnificent arcing crack unwound perfectly ahead of me and soon I had reached the open grassy ledge which signaled the end of the pitch and despite is comfortable offering I chose to push on to the top and enjoy the view out west from the top of our climb. All that was left was to take a stroll over to the crest of the High Stile ridge and enjoy a quick reconnaissance of tomorrows challenge, the intimidating north face of Pillar, and reflect of previous adventures on the surrounding peaks. Then off down, enjoying the changing views of Buttermere and to the pub to meet up with Harry et al. for some enjoyable catching up and a couple of refreshing ginger beers (how very Arthur Ransome.....except these ones were from Glasgow and contained just a little restorative alcohol).

Hay Stacks in the evening sun

After a little to little sleep we were on the path for Pillar. Up and through Scarth Gap Pass then cutting back westwards down in to Ennerdale, a little to late, and negotiating some rough ground to make it to the forestry track before crossing the river and making the steep ascent up towards Pillar Rock.

The imposing north face of Pillar Rock rearing up above the lip of the combe

Approaching the base of North-West Climb is seemed unlikely that a reasonable route could make its way up the towering ribs of this imposing face and yet it would. Again Felix took the first pitch which wound up to the base of a deep chimney. The chimney in turn provided sustained climbing and eventually the traverse on to the easier and dramatically positioned slabs of the Bounding Buttress which seemed to lean against the steeper walls of the Low Man like a dominoed coffin. Felix took on the third pitch which wound its way round the projecting ribs, which held the more direct and more taxing climbs, and took advantage of the more friendly recesses leading to a spike and a secure belay.

Felix approaching the belay ater the third pitch below steepening ground

It was then a shallow groove, Lamb's Chimney, for me leading upwards with sustained climbing through steep ground and an interesting exit first left then right before gaining a good ledge, with some interesting geological features (slickensidesMagaton) look relatively inviting.

Considering my approach to Oppenheimer's Chimney

Oppenheimer's Chimney formed a deep recess tapering backwards from a body-width and with a large chock stone barring progress without tackling overhanging ground. A few small holds led up the right wall but to reach them use would have to be made of a decidedly shaky flake which I did not want to have to step up on to. Instead, after finding a thread runner I reached back behind the chock stone and laying back bridged the overhanging left wall to enable a step out left on to the small holds of the right wall. Reaching up it was then possible to find a balance saving handhold on the right before disentangling my left arm from the chock stone and pushing up to a handrail on the left which provided the confidence with which to continue walking the feet up and past the overhang. A fitting final flurry from an ever steepening and continually challenging route. There was just some steep scrambling and a spacious belay could be made in the sun.

Low man with North-West Climb following the line just left of the sunlit ribs

After brief discussion it was decided that we had fulfilled our climbing appetite and we would descend Old West Route and spend the time we had left taking advantage of the River Liza, which flows through Ennerdale, by have a refreshing dip. Feeling like new people we climbed back through Scarth Gap Pass, this time using the well graded path up the flank of Seat which we had been able to locate from our high perch on Pillar. It was then just the tiring drive south with the extra highlight of a stop at the Whetherby Whaler for some lovely fish and chips with the knowledge of just how much more climbing there is waiting in the Lake District for the next trip running through our minds.

Gable, Scafell & Pillar waiting to yield further adventures

Sunshine on Shining Clough

2011-06-29T19:24:00.004+01:00

Shining Clough presenting an intimidating outlook which it would live up to. East Buttress to the left, Pisa Buttress in the centre and the pinnacle in the bay on the right.

To make the most of the day and to avoid the worst of the forcast heat we headed north the night before. North facing and at 400 m Shining Clough was the plan, in an effort to escape the rising temperatures of East Anglia. This was a new crag to both Rich, visiting from Canada, and myself and it was not to disappoint with hard, steep, uncompromising gritstone classics.

East Buttress with Atherton Brothers up the left, Phoenix Climb up the central crack and the most amazing severe of Via Principia up the right hand crack then arete/face.

Despite setting off from the van at 7:00 the walk up was still hot and sweaty and as we approached East Buttress I decided that Via Principia may be the better warm up over the soaring crack line of Phoenix Climb with is odd half height pocket. As it turned out Via Principia packed a fair amount of climbing in to its 24 metres, first heading up a wide crack before following an exposed arete on to a wall which seemed to further ramp up the exposure. A great warm up climb but left us wondering as to how tough the grades might be on this remote moorland crag. With this in mind I offered the classic Phoenix Climb to Rich and he started up smoothly but was soon cursing the absence of the crucial cam and climbing back down. I decided to head up and take a look and placing some more trust in the hex which Rich had left and placing a further poor cam I jammed my arm in to the crack, raised my foot in to the odd half height pocket and pushed upwards reaching for the safety of the ledge above. The crux move was made but the gear below me was starting to look even more shaky and there were more moves until I would be safe so I made the decision to back off and was happy to return to the odd shaped pocket where I realised that a crossed double arm bar could allow a decent rest but it was more than physical strength that I required so I continued on, downclimbing to the ground. Ah, well, always good to leave a classic to come back to (with the right sized cams!).

Rich giving Pheonix Climb a go before being prudent over the protection available.

To try to regain some confidence we moved on to Atherton Brothers on the left side of the buttress which offered a much more traditional severe with some fun but awkward moves. The sun was now high in the sky and dispite our altitude and aspect the temperature was starting to rise so it was time to find a more shady climb. Stable Cracks is on the NW side of Pisa Buttress and although providing a bit of an adventure, once more tough at the grade, this time I was armed with an appropriate cam to provide an increased dose of confidence for the crux off-width crack. After a baking belay and some debate over who deserved the next lead it was Rich who set off up Pisa Superdirect.

Atop the pinnacle after taking the pretty bold Pinnacle Face. Pisa Superdirect heads up the arete and then upper crack of the buttress behind (Rich's lead) and Stable Cracks head up the obvious cracks to the right (my lead)

Taking the arete to start, as the thin cracks to the right offered little in the way of handholds and less for the feet, Rich made good progress up the sweeping crack which required a rather unexpected jamming lay away before the ledge to the right of the leaning tower and below the overhang was reached. After placing most of the rest of our rack and having a couple of looks Rich made it up and through the overhang and quickly to the top of he climb for which I felt huge relief in that I would not have to head up and try to lead it. On second none of the exposure was lost and the onslaught of tricky move after tricky move again made the route feel high in the grade but fortunately at the crux overhang a better fitting jam and a wider bridge eased my progress and hopefully it won't be long before I come back to lead this one. With the humidity increasing we decided on just one more so I went for the Pinnacle Face which led to the top of a small stack standing proud of the main crag. A fun route during which there was plenty to think about. As we made the abseil descent the first spots of rain started to fall and it was proved a good decision to be heading back down the hill to a hot drive back to the flat lands.

Rich had had his grit shot on his visit back to his climbing homeland and we had both been shown a thing or two about steep grit routes but it had been another great day exploring new rock from which the scars will soon heal.

Solstice weekend at the Lakes

2011-06-28T18:53:00.001+01:00

The rainy forecast did not deter the dedicated team that made our way up to the Lake District on Friday night to celebrate the sunny summer solstice. Finally getting around the A14 traffic crux, Djuke and Jess and I arrived at Alan and Amanda's house in Kendal to find beers already poured for us.

At the crack of noon on Saturday we parked the car in a boggy field in Borrowdale and trekked for an hour through the rain to Raven's Crag, where we could still spot a few orange helmets on the rock through the mist. Our project for the day: an 8-pitch 3(?)-star route called Corvus, come rain or shine or anything else. The rain picked up as we put on harnesses and Djuke cheerfully bounced up the first slabby pitch.

When Jess and I arrived at her belay in a waterfall, we were already soaking and cold. I barely stopped to sort out gear and headed up the next pitch, which began directly up the waterfall for a couple of meters. Grimacing--but a happy grimace, if that's possible--as water rushed down the sleeve of my waterproof while I felt around for the holds, I soon stepped out into a slimy v-crack and got a bomber blue hex in at about shoulder-height which gave me the confidence to finish the pitch up to a flat belay ledge.

The next pitch belonged to Jess, who had climbed this route several years ago and promised us that the views down to Borrowdale were lovely on a clear day. We could only wipe the water out of our eyes and nod as she led off into the cloud, traversing on blocks and then heading up a rib and into a chimney. If my camera had not been buried safely in my rucksack, I could have got a very nice silhouette shot of her perched outside the chimney.

When I reached her at the next belay--a full ledge with a mixture of mud and stone-- I stood around long enough for my numb feet to sink into the mud before shaking out my now-purple fingers and getting moving up the next pitch which was dripping with water. Another soaking belay later, Jess led the hand traverse which would have been delightful on a dry day but in the current conditions was quite the accomplishment as the foot-holds left something to be desired.

We finally topped out at 8pm, celebrated a solid Type 2 Fun day with Jamaican ginger cake (thanks Jess!), and took the long way around to get back to the car by 9pm yet still in relative daylight. At least, it would have been daylight if the clouds had cleared.

We triumphantly made our way back to Kendal to find dinner and good banter waiting for us, and spent the rest of the evening rehydrating with cider and Monkey Whisky after a solid mountain day.

Thus Sunday was a bit of a slow start but along with Amanda, Alan, Tubbs, and Rob we headed for Gouther crag at Swindale, which Amanda promised had the best chance of dry weather anywhere in the Lakes. Fortunately she was right, and we spent a delightful afternoon on Kennel Slab, Left Edge, and some horrible "classic" chimney into which Tubbs disappeared for a decent length of time.

An excellent weekend out, two full days' climbing and good company, what more could you ask for?

Back to Gardom’s for some unfinished business……..which, sadly, remains unfinished

2011-06-19T22:44:00.001+01:00

Unfinished millstone below Apple Buttress

A month ago a trip to Gardom’s Edge, and in particular Moyer’s Buttress, had inspired me to think that E1 climbing might be a good idea. However, deep down knowledge was telling me that E numbers were still actually bad for you. After a couple of good weekends climbing it was time; illness on Friday and rowing on Saturday provided the……..preparation (yep, not perfect). Taking this lack of energy, belief, skill and strength I sneaked up the opening and easy cracks of Moyer’s Buttress, not allowing the climb to recognise my deficiencies. I tussled with the wobbling block rounding the corner, and leaving most of the strength I had there, made to stand up in to the good holds but promptly came back down rather more quickly than I had planned as my numbed hands failed to take hold. I had missed the obvious holds, and gear out to the right and messed up my chances of success. Lessons leaned: warm up on easier ground?, possibly; learn to relax, definitely; get better, for sure. Oh well, on with the day of fun climbs without the E1 worry.

So it was across to the beautifully rounded Elliot's Buttress for the direct route to gather what nerves where left before taking in the trilogy of Garden Buttresses offerings - Crack, Direct (direct) and Indirect, which were all enjoyable climbs and offered an opportunity for Marco to practice some leading. The weather was now turning out perfect with a midge clearing breeze and a patchwork sky so we headed over to Apple Buttress.

Apple Buttress with Apple Arete, Apple Crack and Cider Apple waiting to be climbed

Apple Arete was looking too good not to climb so I balanced up again on fantastic friction to the top out flutings which come as a pleasant surprise. Marco had some further leading practice on Apple Crack and Giant's Staircase and I had the enjoyment of the exposure offered by Cider Apple and guaranteed by the lack of protection it offered.

Another great day in the Peak District if not the grade break through I was hoping for. Fun routes and good company are however, in my opinion far more important.

A bit of dampness at Birchen

2011-06-14T16:14:00.002+01:00

Always take the BBC (and MWIS and Met Office and Met Check) forecast with a large grain of salt.

Five of us headed up to the Peak District on Sunday morning, anticipating a day of sunshine until showers forecast to begin in the late afternoon. Those showers began a bit earlier than anticipated, but we still got a few routes done before packing up to heat to the indoor wall in Sheffield.

After starting with a VDiff that was effectively a boulder problem and then a walk, I climbed Fo'c'sle Crack with John for his first ever outdoor climbing trip (CUMC converts boulderers, one at a time) as it began to rain. Sarah and Ben climbed Mast Gully Wall and Mast Gully Crack next to us while Howie and Joe climbed the classic Sail Chimney.

After this we couldn't deny that there was some extreme dampness occurring, so put on waterproofs and messed around with some topropes. Meanwhile Howie was sliding around on a soaking wet amalgamation of Porthole Direct and Porthole Buttress, whilst Joe belayed and learned about trad leading. One more attempt by me to lead a dripping chimney was soon abandoned and we headed to the Robin Hood for tea.

A pleasant afternoon was then spent at the Foundry Wall in Sheffield, however, and Joe and John also did their first indoor leads.

One of those rare (ahem) occasions on which it rained in the Peak District, but still it was a fun day out!