Off the Cuff

From The OTC Archives: Bow Ties

2009-11-10T17:41:00.007-05:00

Mike T. from Scottsdale Arizona recently asked if OTC has ever written about bow ties. Mike has been sporting them for 30 years and I couldn't be happier to hear it.

As a guy from New England, and an Ivy League college town to boot, I know from bow ties. I have long been a big fan and to me they have always represented a shot of jaunty intellectual creativity. So, I dug through the OTC archives and pulled together some thoughts on bow ties.

Just so we're clear, I am taking about the bow ties you actually have to tie yourself. Clip-ons are to me a wasted effort. The imperfection of a self tied tie is what makes it such a personal expression of your own style. The only tie knot that should appear symmetrically flawless is the double Windsor, and that's only because if done correctly it can look no other way.

Southern gentlemen have embraced the bow tie for generations and it seems that the current upsurge in bow tie interest was given birth in the Low Country. My instinctive style guide is finally getting some validation as bow ties are now starting to show up all over the place. Southern gentlemen though seem to have a better understanding of the bow tie's edgier, intellectual capacity. A bow tie takes some guts to wear and, stereotypes notwithstanding, is not for the meek and timid.

About as Southern a bow tie as you can get

Tucker Carlson, the political commentator stopped wearing his trademark bow ties in part because he came to realize that they were viewed as slightly aggressive. Apparently in the tie-wearing world, at least in D.C., they are the sartorial equivalent of daring someone to pick a fight.

The core of the bow tie movement seems to be a particular elevation of the overall trend toward a sense of formality in menswear. We all know this does not mean that every guy out there wants to wear a three piece suit to work. However, if you look across the landscape of men's clothing there is a definite move toward looking better and cleaning up.

This is not new, I've been talking about the trending away from slouchy casual for a while; but in my opinion, it is now taking on more definition. Where the latter 1990s, just before the tech boom, was a boring morass of bland office wear - really, the last clearly defined period of "business dress" as a uniform - we now have a movement that is actively seeking a modern update of classic influences. And it's really a self motivating movement; out of the necessity to appear professional and keep one's job, the desire to get a job or just for the love of dressing well.

Urban cool bow tie

Viewed that way, I would call today's bow tie wearers the modern dandy. Really, this is the perfect compromise for the stylish man of today (or even the man of today who wants to be stylish). Think about it: a dandy, in his original guise, was an individualist during a period of conformity and class stratification.

He was someone who wanted to make a mark of society, turn convention on its head, find a place in the salons and courts of the power players and yet still fall within the general framework of polite society. In essence a dandy is an individualist to whom others are drawn, yet someone who still maintains his own identity.

A handy do-it-yourself guide

I don't know about you, but to me that rather sounds like the personality of today's up and coming entrepreneurs and big thinkers. Of course not all of our future world leaders are going to run out to stock up on bow ties, but many of them are looking to find their version of the power suit, the perfect watch, the best car or the right shoes. And as it happens, they seem to be demanding quality of quantity, substance over flash, and the unique over anonymous.

J. Peterman's Mailbag - The Best Bag Ever?

2009-11-03T16:47:00.007-05:00

It’s funny how sometimes things just come together. I am a bag guy; I have lots of different bags, from elegant leather briefs to beat-up nylon messengers.

One of my all-time favorites is the Counterfeit Mailbag, from the J. Peterman Company. In fact, it's one of the first bags I ever wrote about and was sent to me by John Peterman himself - it can't really get better than that.

The bag, based on the classic leather workhorse lugged across the country by a generation of letter carriers, is simple and classic. Unique enough to be modern and fit effortlessly into the current “heritage” trend it is also timeless enough to always look current.

A fantastic example of this staying power was brought to my attention by one of my readers in California. Though she asked to remain anonymous, this globe-trotting lady has had a 15-year love affair with her J. Peterman mailbag. For those of us who knew J. Peterman back in the day, those first Owner’s Manual catalogs, with the now iconic watercolor illustrations, were collector’s items.

Products like the Counterfeit Mailbag were and still are the core of Peterman’s unique and creative product mix.

With my sincere thanks, here is her story, in her own words (these are her pictures too, what a great looking bag):

Back in 1994 when I bought the Counterfeit Mailbag, $300 was a lot of money to me. I remember the year because I got it at the same time the Olympics were in Norway. It was almost a full month's rent. I coveted the bag from the moment I first saw it in the J. Peterman Catalog. I tore the page out of the catalog, pinned it to my fridge together with an envelope. Every time I had an extra $1 or $5, I stuck it in the envelope. Eventually after about a year I had enough to buy it.

I remember being so excited when it came – I took pictures of it! They are right... when you first get it, you are afraid of every little scratch or the rain... but the fears pass away as the bag gets worn in. The leather becomes very soft and supple. Of course it is worn, dirty and has an ink stain on the side from a leaky pen -- but that just gives it character. I still get compliments on the bag all the time.

The amazing thing is that this bag has really, truly stood the test of time. I am in awe. I have probably unzipped that zipper 30-40,000 times. It's never once given me a bit of problem. It's never needed repairs, either. All of the stitching has held beautifully, even the parts that get the most wear and tear. They just don't make quality stuff like this anymore. The description in the catalog is right -- it will most certainly outlast me.

My bag has been with me in all my travels over the years: Australia, New Zealand, Papua New Guinea, Sri Lanka, India, Israel, Jordon, Egypt, across China, Tibet, Thailand, Japan, South Korea, Vietnam, Russia, just about every country in Europe, South Africa, Kenya, Ethiopia, Mexico, Costa Rica, Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Peru – and all over the U.S. It was even with me in a crowd of millions on The Mall when Obama took the oath of office.

Hint: When filled with clothing, the bag makes a perfect impromptu pillow.

I realize that some people like a bag or suitcase with lots of pockets - but not me. I find that the one deep pocket serves me well. I use 2-3 smaller zippered enclosures to keep toiletries and other small items organized, but that's about it.

I travel extremely lightly. So light that you'd think I was going away for 1 night. On most of those trips, the only bag I took was this one and one smaller purse for those times I didn't want to take the bag with me. I learned very early that you really don't need much to travel. Most things can be purchased along the way.

Another hint: I keep a small fake wallet in my bag, right near the top. I keep a few bills of the local currently in there along with some business cards and such. It's been pick pocketed 2-3 times in my travels and I handed it over when I was mugged once in Italy -- but they've never gotten the real one which I keep in the zippered section and most passport/credit card/extra money in an around the waist money belt.

It's also my every day throw over my shoulder commuter bag but I also empty it out when I walk down to the grocery store and use it to haul my groceries or farmer's market items home.

It's an investment that's been well worth every penny I spent.

Style Guide - The Blue Blazer

2009-10-31T22:05:00.009-04:00

When it comes to wardrobe basics, the one thing you should have on sartorial speed dial is a blue blazer. A blue blazer is the backbone of any serious wardrobe. The perennially popular Preppy Handbook even dubbed it the male exoskeleton.

Preppy or not, a blue blazer is the one article of dress clothing all men should have hanging in the closet. It is universally useful and chameleon-like when it comes to meeting your needs in a sartorial pinch.

Now, when they hear “blue blazer” people tend to think of the classic brass button type found on the bridge of a yacht in a Ralph Lauren advertisement. Of course that version is the most traditional, but by no means is it the only option. Blue blazers come in a range of fabrics and styles that can work with almost anyone’s style - from lightweight linens to beefy flannels.

As the king of odd jackets, a blue blazer can fill the gap when you need to dress somewhere between a suit and a sweater, regardless of the season.

Styles vary as much as materials. Some blazers have horn or resin buttons instead of shipshape brass ones. They can come with single, double or no vents; notched or peaked lapels. Other design variations can change the overall feel of the garment.

A double breasted blazer, with its nipped waist and dramatic massing of buttons can impart formality. On the other hand, a single breasted sack jacket with no darting and patch pockets can give you a more casual “drinks at the club” New England persona.

When it comes to shoulders, there are some cultural variations as well. American blazers often have a soft natural shoulder, while English tailors tend to prefer them padded and more structured. This is particularly true with double breasted jackets. American makers like Brooks Bothers and J. Press are arbiters of the natural shoulder; a style I tend prefer.

When shopping for a blue blazer, approach it as a major investment. This should be a jacket that can carry you for years to come and something that you are happy to reach for in the morning. A well constructed blazer made from good fabric will be as comfortable as your favorite sweatshirt and its classic styling will conquer the vagaries of many fashion cycles.

The core benefit of the blue blazer is its inherent versatility. It can make jeans, Chuck Taylors and an old polo shirt look city cool or give khakis, boat shoes and a favorite oxford some un-stuffy dressiness.

The blue blazer works because of its balance between formal and comfortable. It’s one of those rare garments that has both stood the test of time and evolved to meet the needs of each generation.

OTC: Behind DC's Velvet Rope

2009-10-21T23:21:00.018-04:00

On Monday Fashion Washington, The Washington Post's luxury lifestyle magazine hosted a private party to celebrate its one year anniversary. It was also FW's chance to flex a little fashion and eco star power as it also awarded Philippe and Alexandra Cousteau the honor of being DC's Most Fashionable.

From 7:00-10:00 that evening, the recently opened Masa 14 was ground zero for many of DC's best dressed and most fashionable. OTC was there to check it out and report back to you.

Celebrity blogger Scott "The Sartorialist" Schuman was there to schmooze and do a special book signing for the attendees. His official book signing began at 10:00 p.m. and by the time I got there a crowd was already gathering outside Masa 14.

I chatted with Scott for a while and asked why is it that Europeans in particular always seem to pull together great, classic looks that are always in style. Without hesitating he replied, "American men have too many choices. We have all these brands and labels that just pile up and encourage American guys to "be" a certain look. Who am I today? Am I a Ralph safari guy or an Abercrombie pretty preppy boy?"

He noted that Europeans - Italians in particular - "tend to have a single, classic silhouette with a few variations in color, fabric and cut. Milan, style-wise, is deep but narrow, so you have this amazing depth of knowledge and style and everyone tends to refine a common look."

"American men also have an issue with fit. We are so focused on getting something right now that we forget to make sure all the details fit - basically we are pretty lazy about looking good." That said, Scott was wearing Ralph Lauren Purple Label head to toe - and it fit just fine.

He added that "American guys need to utilize and appreciate tailors - that is a big failing of ours." Lastly, Scott pointed out that we should not necessarily try and be Europeans; American style, especially the American Preppy/Ivy League look, is our heritage when it comes to fashion. We should be proud of it.

Philippe and I compared our Kobold dive watches. Of course, while I am a huge fan of my New Arctic Diver, Philippe was wearing the watch he designed with Kobold - the Large Soarway Diver - a portion of the purchase price goes to help fund his organization Earth Echo.

He was a very nice guy - look forward to a more in depth discussion with Philippe in the coming weeks.

It was a great event that really did highlight a fashion community on the rise - no complaints about that!

Here are a couple of shots from the FW party:

With Scott Schuman

With Philippe Cousteau

General shots from FW's night out:

Stay tuned for more red carpet reports, as I'll be in Las Vegas shortly and covering the opening of John Varvatos' new store at the Hard Rock Cafe.

VM Clothiers To Host Exhibition

2009-10-15T12:08:00.004-04:00

Just a quick note to let everyone in the Washington, D.C., area know that VM Clothiers will be holding a customer exhibition this Saturday, October 17.

VM Clothiers regularly hosts exhibitions to provide current and new clients the opportunity to get personalized style advice, view their collection of over 2,000 shirt and suit fabrics and have your measurements taken by one of their master tailors.

To help give them an understanding about your personal tastes, style and fit, please wear your favorite or best fitting suit and or shirt. No appointments are necessary, just stop by.

As the very happy owner of a VM Clothiers suit and several shirts, I highly recommend them.

For additional details and location information, please CLICK HERE.

OTC Recommends: Suunto Elementum

2009-10-15T00:17:00.010-04:00

About two months ago OTC was contacted by Suunto, a watch company based in Helsinki, Finland. Suunto is best known as a designer of midrange digital sports watches that border on being wrist computers.

Founded in 1936, Suunto has a long and respected history as an innovator in sports timing, especially in the field of digital timing.

It turns out that Suunto is going upscale and wanted to see what OTC thought of the effort.

The new Suunto Elementum collection – exclusively manufactured in Finland – consist of three unique watches geared to specific activities. Now, as you may already guess, OTC does not really fit the digital watch model. Typically, when we discuss watches we’re talking about things like the benefits of tourbillions or how the very inaccuracy of mechanical watches make them so special.

That is still very much the case here, but the Elementum caught us off guard. These stylish, urban-inspired watches combine a high degree of craftsmanship with precision digital technology in a unique and attractive package. The goal in creating this collection was to marry form and function in an upscale and highly designed product. As far as we’re concerned, it worked.

The collection consists of three watches, Elementum Aqua, Elementum Terra and Elementum Ventus, specifically designed for diving, mountaineering and sailing. Their Latin names directly translate to water, earth and wind, which are the three elements that surround the activities Suunto Elementum is inspired by and designed to help navigate through.

Noticing an increased interest and demand for stylish but functional premium sports watches, Suunto developed the Elementum Collection to meet the needs of three specific types of people.

Elementum Aqua (on stainless steel bracelet)

The Aqua detects when the user enters the water and starts all the functions and measurements for a dive, such as depth, maximum depth, dive time, surface time and water temperature.

Elementum Terra (on leather strap)

The Terra is equipped to help its wearer survive in the outdoors, such as an altimeter for altitude measurement, barometer for easy prediction of weather changes and compass for navigation.

The Ventus is a highly sophisticated yet interestingly elegant sailing timepiece with features that allow for predictions of upcoming weather, an advanced compass for navigation and a sailing timer for the timing race starts.

After reviewing the three models – each available with a variety of finishes and straps – we chose Ventus as the test model. Its association with sailing and the hefty leather strap made it a good match with OTC’s sense of style.

Elementum Ventu (on leather strap)

Once the watch arrived, it was clear to us that Suunto was moving in a very premium direction. The outer box’s gallery drop front and inner box’s solid feel and clean finish all foretold that something different was going on.

The first thing we noticed about the watch was that while it is a solid 45mm across and sat quite high on the wrist, it weighed almost nothing. The face is a completely seamless crystal (negative display) and all functions are controlled by the pushers at three and four o-clock and the knob at two o-clock.

The Ventus is a sharp looking watch. Most people who commented on it said that it’s an interesting (in a good way) combination of new and old, modern and functional.

What we really like though, is the leather strap. The thick tan hide nicely counterpoints the case’s brushed stainless steel case and signed buckle. First time on the wrist and it felt moulded in place and the white top stitching really compliments the overall feel.

Technically speaking the functions are simple and strait forward – once you figure out which feature is controlled by which pusher. The barometric pressure graph is very useful (and cool) and the backlighting is, as my nephew would say, “wicked bright.”

Brand wise, Suunto has handled everything in-house, which is very admirable. The watches and the campaign’s approach both reflect this more personal philosophy. Each watch in the collection has its own brand ambassador. Ventus’ is Finnish sailing champion and Olympian Thomas Johanson. Check out his Suunto video HERE.

OTC happily recommends the Suunto Ventus as a cool yet classic tool watch with a modern flair. It’s functional, stylish, has a killer strap and the impressive pedigree of North Sea testing. Please note that it’s not a suit watch; it’s a dressy casual watch that can hit the seas (or just the mall) without skipping a beat.

Suunto Elementum is available in the USA, Sweden and Italy. It will be available this fall in Finland, Argentina, Greece, Japan and Singapore. MSRP is approximately $1,000.

Timeless Classic: The A-1 Flight Jacket

2009-10-11T16:28:00.017-04:00

In this weekend's edition of the Wall Street Journal, I read a great piece about Norman Rockwell's famous painting, "Freedom of Speech".

The iconic image, pictured here, represents one of the four "essential freedoms" set forth in Franklin D. Roosevelt's inauguration speech of January 6, 1941. The painting was made in 1943 as part of the four image series. While the other three - Freedom From Want, Freedom From Fear and Freedom Of Worship - are equally inspiring, Freedom of Speech is particularly special to me.

Apart from allusions to the Lincoln-inspired central figure and the less direct hints of church and school, central tenets of American culture, what caught my attention was the jacket.

That central figure, the common man speaking his mind at a town meeting, is wearing an Army Air Corp A-1 flight jacket. The symbolism of the jacket, clearly worn and softened by age, tells us that perhaps he served in the military in his younger days and now works in a manual but honorable field. He is the embodiment of the classic "great citizen".

A modern version of the A-1

I once had that jacket, in a manner of speaking, and mourn its loss whenever I think about it - like now. Many years ago I ordered the A-1 from the now defunct Willis & Geiger, then a part of Lands' End. I felt, once I had actually tried it on, that the jacket was too snug and a bit too new looking. So, I returned it; what an idiot. Shortly thereafter W&G closed its virtual doors and the jacket was gone for good.

Only now do I fully appreciate the totally unique and classic style this jacket represents. Why is it snug? To fit close to the pilot's body in the cramped cockpit. It's button-front closure is the result of the zipper not yet having been invented in 1927, the A-1'a year of issue. The knit collar, a variant of the baseball jacket type, was designed to close snug around a pilot's neck and keep out the cold wind of an open cockpit.

Too new looking? Well, it was new and I was stupid. In hindsight I see with painful clarity how beautifully that capeskin would have aged. So it goes.

The A1 is the predecessor to the better known A2 and it is easy to see the early DNA of the endlessly copied A2. Technically referred to as the A1 Summer Flying Jacket and manufactured as Navy issue from November 1927 to 1931, it was eventually replaced by the G1.

The well-known A-2

Eastman, a manufacturer of exacting reproductions notes that the A-1 was synonymous with early aviation heroes, including Jimmy Doolittle, Ira Eaker and Carl Spaatz. The A-1 was also the very first of the windcheater-type flying jackets outfitted with knitted waist and cuffs, and a design that was to set the basic outline for flying jacket styling to this day.

Eastman's Reproduction A-1

Although superseded in design by the A-2 in1931, the A-1 was still being issued, albeit in limited numbers, well into the 1940s, and was not officially declared obsolete until September 29th 1944.

Originally, the A-1 was specified to be made from a olive drab cape leather, but the few existing examples that can be found today are always a chestnut-brown shade of capeskin. High detail replicas, essentially historical reproductions, can cost anywhere from $800 to $1,200. Modern versions in hide can run around $400.

The great thing about the the A-1 is that it is both a classic example of timeless style and something at works seamlessly with say, jeans, a white J.Press oxford and old docksiders. It's both old school and modern cool and you can't beat that combination.

Saks Goes Private....Label

2009-10-07T01:36:00.012-04:00

What do you think of when I say “Saks Fifth Avenue”? Exclusivity, style, pricey clothes and perhaps most of all – labels.

Saks typically brings you the kinds of label that break the bank: Armani, Boss, Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli, Burberry, Cavalli, Gucci, Maison Martin Margiela, Rag & Bone to name just a few.

One of Saks Fifth Avenue’s hallmarks has always been its gold plated collection of high-end designers. After its deep price slashing last holiday season, seen by many as tacky, the company’s high-end reputation was rocked.

Now Saks has rolled out something new and eyebrows are being raised. Saks Fifth Avenue Men’s Collection represents the company’s major push into private label branding; something the store has eschewed up to now.

The Men’s Collection took two years to develop and encompasses everything from ties, shoes and socks to suits, cashmere sweaters and outerwear. The collection was a joint effort between Saks’ men’s merchant team and consultant Peter Rizzo, a men’s wear veteran whose career includes stints at Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman Men, Polo Ralph Lauren and I.C. Isaacs.

While Saks already had some private label brands, the Men’s Collection represents a first – a fully coordinated, high end competitor aimed squarely at the luxury menswear market. It’s also representative of a private label/proprietary brand trend making its way across the retail spectrum, from supermarkets to Madison Avenue.

In Saks’ case, in addition to converting fashion cognoscenti, they hope to attract shoppers who have been intimidated by the company’s reputation for being an exclusive and trendy citadel to the elite. It’s a real collection, not just an offshoot and part of the strategy is to make the Saks brand more approachable.

The impetus behind the Men’s Collection is fairly strait forward. Luxury labels are pushing retailers for higher profit margins. Private labels are a balancing factor that bring up-market shoppers a more affordable alternative but only when (1) actual quality, in both manufacturing and design, and (2) perceived value are accepted.

As designer Tommy Hillfinger recently stated on CNBC during a panel discussion with Steve Sadove, CEO of Saks, at the end of the day it’s about the product. That and service; luxury goods are a high-touch business and customers factor the service aspect of their transaction into the overall price-to-value ratio.

Saks Men's Collection (l), Bloomingdale's The Men's Store (r)

With an eye toward lower price points for quality and design equivalent to luxury prestige brands, the Men’s Collection is a relative value for the right customer. Average prices are up to 50% less than direct brand competitors – many of which are carried by Saks. This can’t make them very happy, but from Saks perspective taking care of its customers is paramount, even at the expense of its vendors’ sense of trust.

According to WWD, prices are about 20 percent higher than opening-price point merchandise and range from $65 for polos and $75 for ties to $1,100 to $1,300 for suits and up to $1,500 for outerwear. Cashmere sweaters are $295 to $345; merino wool sweaters are $130 to $215; dress pants are $195, and woven shirts are $135 to $165.

Saks Fifth Avenue is not alone in this upscale move to house branding. Bloomingdale's recently launched The Men's Store and Lord & Taylor have thier "Black & Brown" line designed by Joseph Abboud. The Wall Street Journal's Christina Binkley recently produced an excellent article on this trend - it's worth a read.

Style Guide: Argyle Socks

2009-09-28T22:03:00.013-04:00

A couple of months ago, as the weather was heating up, I posted a piece about Smart Turnout's new line of argyle socks.

Although I still think wearing lightly patterned argyle in the summer is a fun, albeit incongruous look, it's now Autumn and this is truly argyle season.

Argyle's classic design of overlapping diamonds has a certain heavy warmth which reminds me of bundling up on crisp mornings to walk the dog. Maybe it's the historic pattern's Scottish heritage or its perennial prevalence in sweaters and thick socks, but it just makes me think "warmth."

Wearing argyle can be a tricky thing and if you are not careful "clever-brainy-iconoclast" drifts into "goofy-overpattered-stereotype". Keep it simply by using this dramatic pattern in small or targeted doses.

Today, let's talk socks.

Want to spice up your otherwise traditional suit? Try out a pair of dark or muted argyle socks with a black, navy blue or dark grey base. That will tone down the overall pattern and give you a shot of fun pattern without making it look to kitschy. Pick a base color that you would normally wear with your outfit.

Classic and coordinated (credit, WASP 101)

A note - this works when you are suited up but not going overly formal. Barrel cuff? Have a little fun. Cufflinks? Keep it formal.

As a side note, I'm not really a fan of argyle ties. I find them too affected for my taste, but that is a personal thing. Some guys may be able to pull them off, but the look is often more comic than clever. This isn't the same thing as plaid; clearly I like plaid ties.

Argyle socks can actually be paired with most looks except formal business attire, black tie (obvious I know, but I've actually seen it tried) and shorts. Kilts yes, shorts, not really.

Follow the same rule as above and marry the base color to the pant. With casual clothing however, you needn't match the two; you can offset the two. With jeans, go brighter and let the shock of color and pattern show through. Khakis can either blend or contrast as long as either the pants or top pick up some of the argyle design.

Almost looks like something you would
see today in J. Crew (credit, Ivy Style)

Pairing with casual shoes is actually pretty easy, just something that most guys are not used to. loafers, moccasins, chukka boots and Timberlands are all natural mates to argyle socks. If you want to take a more urban casual turn, try them with classic trainers (sneakers). Do not try this with your Air Jordans or techno cross trainers. Classic Adidas, Stan Smiths, Chuck Taylors or something along those lines will work just fine.

So there you have it, a quick argyle primer for the Fall. I'll talk about argyle on your upper half shortly. If you have any questions or comments, or if you think I missed something, just let me know.

I'm pretty much over the preppy skull thing,
but the pairing is great

And please remember, especially with something as personally subjective as argyle, different people can pull off different things. Yes, Andre Benjamin can wear argyle head to toe and look totally cool. But do you really plan on wearing that look to the office?

OTC Profiled on Washingtonian.com!

2009-09-23T10:54:00.011-04:00

I am very excited to announce that Washingtonian.com, the online home of Washingtonian Magazine, today profiled Off The Cuff on its Capitol Comment Blog.

That OTC has captured the interest of a blue chip publication like Washingtonian is cool enough, but the photo of me even impressed my wife. Trust me, I'm not nearly as swanky looking in real life.

The interview was a lot of fun and I want to send out a big thanks to the staff over at Washingtonian. It is truly a humbling experience to realize that OTC has grown into such a leading resource for so many people in so many places.

Photo by Chris Leaman, Washingtonian Magazine

I also want to point out that the suit I'm wearing in the photo is the same one profiled in my "Going Custom" posts.

There was some back and forth in the final "Custom" installment, and hopefully this picture better captures the excellent fit and styling of the VM Clothiers suit. By the way, he also made the double cuff shirt I'm wearing in the shot.

A Windsor of a Question

2009-09-22T00:48:00.010-04:00

Dear Sir, I apologize for the unsolicited email, but I thought it you might have a free moment you might be able to help with something.

I am about 6 feet tall and prefer the windsor knot. I have noticed that the short end of my tie, once the knot is tied, is much shorter than the long end and cannot be placed in the little holder piece. So my the short end of my tie moves around a lot and is not held in place. It doesn't look very good. I know some people tuck this piece into their shirts but this just doesn't seen right to me. I also know that some people use a tie clip but with all due respect that just does not seem right for a 25 year-old. Do you have any other suggestions?

The gentleman above poses an interesting and not too-uncommon question. I have found that for most people, ties seems to be designed to only handle the four-in-hand when is comes to length. Anything else and they seem to run out of length in a flash - as is the case here.

I do know that some tie makers make longer ties, though they can be hard to find and there is no guarantee that one will even like the selection. Brooks Brothers, for example, has a special collection of extra long ties. When I am in a Windsor mood, I have only two ties that I know will work and still let me properly tuck the back blade into its holder.

When going for a Windsor, or even a half-Windsor, I prefer that my ties not be too bulky. Some men always want to see a chunky knot, but to me the full Windsor knot is itself already a bit hefty and I really don’t want to overdo the bulk factor. So, in my case at least all these preferences limit the actual tie options.

The loose Italian take on a Windsor

I'm also a little picky about the rear blade. With whatever knot I tie, I prefer that both the front and rear blade hang about even. It's a balance issue for me - the lack of relatively equal tie halves, front and back, feels awkward, like I have a big knot around my neck and a lone flap of silk hanging off-center. I don't like the feeling; it's like I'm faking it.

Ultimately though, you have to work with what you have and in this case it probably means jury-rigging your ties. I agree that the tie bar option is not a good fit. If nothing else, it would probably sit up too high and look a bit odd. And I agree that in most cases a tie bar worn out of necessity (or even choice) looks more fashiony than classy on a 25 year-old.

If you want to see what a good Windsor knot looks like, take a gander at this recent New York Times piece on the always dapper NYC Police Commissioner Raymond Kelly. The Comish has a particular dedication to the Windsor knot and is also a surprising font of information when it comes to dressing with personal flair.

Ray Kelly ties one on, under the watchful gaze of T.R.

The easiest option might be to use a small safety pin and tack the errant short piece to the back of your tie. Or, if you're game (or if your tailor is game) add a second keeper loop further up the tie positioned to always capture the rear blade.

To learn how to tie a Windsor knot, click here to view step-by-step instructions from Brook's Southern cousin, Ben Silver.

Personal Style Embodied: My Father

2009-09-13T15:48:00.010-04:00

You may have noticed that the span of time between posts has been a little longer recently.

Unfortunately, we are in the midst of a family emergency here. My father is quite ill and for a brief period of time, we were not sure if things would go his way.

He has recovered a bit and while his prognosis improves, dad is still very much in the thick of the woods. Being the sons of this retired physician, my brothers and I each understand the reality of life but also the vital importance of a positive outlook. I am very confident that he will recover and get back to a slightly less busy schedule.

At the same time this was all unfolding, I was also engaged in several reader discussions on the importance of personal style and finding one's own sartorial voice. As a small tribute to the man who shaped much of the person I am today, I am reposting an article from several years ago on this very topic.

The most significant impact on my personal style is without a doubt that of my father's. While there have been many other influences, from magazines and movies to managing a Ralph Lauren store, it always comes back to him.

My father has a timeless sense of taste and a respect for quality. He is, at heart, a J. Press man. He attended Yale College and then Yale Medical School back when young men were required to wear coat and tie to class, so Press was very much a part of his life. Beyond that, though, he is a true to form OCBD kind of guy.

To my knowledge, as long as I have been alive, he has never owned a pair of jeans.

He has always been without pretense though, never believing that any advantages offered to him by life made a whit of difference. He lives life very much as he dresses; comfortable and classic without being stuffy or off-putting.

To the contrary, he has always been an approachable guy, which is very important given his profession. In fact, he recently wrapped up a teaching position at his alma mater - educating medical students on how to actually interact with people.

Grandpa with his granddaughters

While he is a conservative dresser, my dad is by no means a sartorial wallflower. From white tie, tails and top hat for an annual dinner dance to creamy flannels, blue blazer, and a panama for a summer’s concert under the stars, he most certainly exemplifies great personal style.

I have many many mental snapshots of him that have helped to cement my love for clothing and its power. But one memory stands out because it was less about what he had on and more about who he is.

I was with a friend who worked in the hospital’s emergency room and we had stopped by so that he could drop something off. I tried to stay out of the way and unobtrusively stood in a corner watching the commotion.

Unexpectedly, I saw my dad come around the corner wearing a seersucker suit and white bucks – downright natty. In the emergency room no less! He has always held a strong personal belief that as a physician his patients always deserved to be treated with dignity because of the trust they put in him. Dressing well is a simple and visible show of that respect and affection.

What will forever hold a special place in my heart is what happened next. Not seeing me, he walked over to a man lying on a gurney along the wall, gently leaned over him and began to talk. Their heads close together, I could see the body of my dad's patient relax a bit. To him, that man was the only person in the world who mattered.

At that moment, what he had on was irrelevant; he was there to comfort and help this sick person. In that instant, the style on the outside was eclipsed by the man on the inside.

More than any glossy magazine or celebrity, that image will always be my definition of true style.

Going Custom - Part 3

2009-09-07T22:57:00.013-04:00

It's been a while since my last installment on the journey of my custom suit from VM Clothiers.

While it took longer than I had planned to wrap up this three-part review, rest assured that the extra time I've devoted to putting the suit through its paces has only reinforced my total satisfaction with the endeavor.

It's a great suit and I will be calling on Vishal again soon. Overall, it is very well constructed and, most importantly, fits me just right. The details are well thought out and in the right places and the design is classic yet modern enough to feel fresh.

I didn't make too many changes to the silhouette except to shorten the jacket's skirt an inch and narrow the lapels a touch.

This suit has traveled across the country stuffed into coach, sat through too many meetings to remember and given several presentations. In doing so, I can honestly say that it has passed with flying colors and actually received a fair amount of compliments.

The final product

For the price, I think that's a darn good deal. To be fair, is it the equivalent of a suit you would get from Henry Poole, Eric Finn or Georges de Paris? Probably not. Some of the interior finishing and detail work is not exact and I did not have several fittings and consultations with the actual tailors constructing the suit.

However, in this case I was not expecting the same level of extravagant detail which I would had this suit cost $2,500. For the amount VM Clothiers charges though (in the general range of $500-$600), you get a damn good suit.

Frankly, the kinds comments I regularly receive lead me to believe that no one thinks otherwise and that is just fine by me.

There are a number of details to this suit that stand out.

1. Here, you can see the unique fold-over collar detail. There is no felt backing the collar and none is needed. It is a very nicely constructed collar and lapel.

2. The trousers are cuffed and the standard addition of an extra piece of fabric helps to reduce wear that is caused by the heels of your shoes is another example of thought and detail.

3. While there is a coin slot in the right, front-hand pocket, I love the addition of the watch pocket. It is built into the top of the waistband, so even when wearing a belt, unfettered access to change, or even a pocket watch, is assured.

4. The trousers also have a standard ridged trim on both the right- and left-hand sides of the waistband to reduce the tendency of one's shirt to ride up. It is very soft and not even noticeable, but still a welcome and practical addition.

5. Here, you can see the hacking cut of the pockets, something new for me on a suit. I really like this look as it gives a personal twist to a traditional garment. I also elected to add a ticket pocket, an English touch I've always liked.

6. I also chose surgeon's cuffs. While a an added expense, though nominal in this case, I am adamant that for a custom suit, working sleeve buttons is a requirement. It's one of those thing things that makes custom so very custom.

OTC Launches on Nivea For Men

2009-09-01T23:08:00.008-04:00

I am excited to announce that Off The Cuff is now a regular feature on the new Nivea For Men website.

OTC, along with Nick Sullivan, Esquire's fashion director and the staff of Men's Health magazine, will be giving more than 100,000 monthly readers all sorts of fashion and grooming advice.

The Groom Room is NFM's virtual lounge, home to useful information for your whole life. This will be the place to go for guidance on what to wear or tips for taking care of yourself, advice for your career and even help on choosing that new laptop.

You'll find classic OTC columns along with new and creative ideas for pulling it all together every day, make sure to stop by Nivea For Men's Groom Room and see what's new.

The Last Lion

2009-08-26T07:26:00.004-04:00

Hon. Edward M. Kennedy
1932-2009

There Are No Short Sleeved Dress Shirts

2009-08-24T17:44:00.006-04:00

I just fielded a question from a good friend regarding the standing of short sleeve dress shirts. As I explained, succinctly I think, there is no such thing as a short sleeve dress shirt.

There are dress shirts worn with the sleeves rolled up – usually to indicate intense focus and determination and often accompanied by a dramatic soundtrack- but there are no short sleeve dress shirts. Camp shirts are similar, in the way that a pup tent is similar to an Airstream trailer, but that’s about it.

I don't often get riled up about these sorts of things, but to put it bluntly, the very formality and purpose of a dress shirt is emasculated once the sleeves are cut off. There is just no way around it.

Additionally, very, very few people can even pull one off. The end result often falls far short of the desired outcome. It is one of those male garments that almost always fails to meet the expectations of both the wearer and the observer.

I know, I know - it’s actually really hot in other parts of the country. And in the Southern states a long sleeve shirt can be seen as a particular hassle in the hot, humid summer. Unfortunately that just doesn’t matter. I mentioned camp shirts earlier; these are a fine alternative to other short sleeved casual shirts, polo shirts in particular. But they are not substitute dress shirts.

This camp shirt works, but in a casual way

When the discussion reaches this point, we have to get down to brass tacks and say, “I need to take a good look at my wardrobe.” Too warm in the long sleeve dress shirts you already own? Chances are you’re wearing oxford cloth shirts and you are correct, they are way too heavy for summer. Try out a couple of nice pinpoint oxfords. They are very sharp looking and much more lightweight.

Even better, how about a few Sea Island or Egyptian cotton dress shirts? While they tend to cost the same a secondhand Volvo, they are very lightweight and feel like silk.

Roll your sleeves up, don't cut them off

If the whole short sleeve dress shirt issue is more about trying to be "kind of" dressed up, but not too much so, there are many options besides the alleged “short sleeve” dress shirt. Just roll up your sleeves and get to work.

Really, feel free to drop me a line and we'll sort it out.

Quick Shot: Nantucket Reds on the Potomac

2009-08-21T10:23:00.005-04:00

No the clearest of pictures, but this guy is always on the move. I couldn't get him to stand still long enough for a clear shot. KR is a honest-to-goodness DC lobbyist and a darn good one at that. He's also a very snappy dresser.

A South Carolina native, he passes up the standard suit and tie when he can. Here he is sporting a pair of beat up J. Crew "Nantucket Reds" (I know, not the real ones from Murray's Toggery), white oxford and just out of view some nice Allen Edmunds loafers.

He always points out that the pants were a good deal at the J.Crew outlet. One of the great things about KR is that he he has his own sense of style and anyone who doesn't like it can just go to hell. In fact, he has some of the best GTH pants I've seen. I would call his look Southern preppy/urbane casual. Even when he's totally dressed down, there is a certain coolness to the ensemble.

Some of you might remember KR from the Black Tie and Boots Ball at President Obama's inauguration. I always tell him that he has the kind of style that will get him on the web, so be on the lookout for future shots.

Review: The Luminox Colormark - Functionally Classic

2009-08-19T13:19:00.007-04:00

I have reviewed and written on several high end wrist watch brands over the years; usually in the context of how they fit into a classic but updated sense of style. Watches are a very important component of one’s wardrobe – they are one of our most personal and telling accoutrements.

Though most of the attention gets focused on luxury and “investment” brands, there are more than enough guys out there who simply need a good, hardworking and distinctive watch. A number of readers have contacted me recently and asked that I track down a durable everyday watch that would fit into a less formal atmosphere.

I promptly started looked around for a functionally stylish watch that telegraphs personality but doesn’t cost an arm and a leg. I decided to focus on the broad category sports watches. These are the kinds of timepieces that you can take from the pool to the barbeque to the office (on a casual summer’s day at least).

So, in a world filled with chunky Casio G-Shocks and Timex Ironmen, what stands out as unique and durable?

In a word: Luminox.

Apart from building a relatively inexpensive yet tough watch, Luminox still provides its customers with something special: legitimate uniqueness. Its breakout model, the original Navy SEAL composite watch, gave the brand a certain cache in the sports watch world. Designed in close collaboration with active Navy SEALs, its functional yet cool design and landmark illumination technology captured the imagination of many armchair “operators”.

The latest evolution of this watch is the EVO Colormark 3051, and I’ve been testing it out for a few weeks now. While there may be some grumbling out there that none of these watches are particularly classic or preppy, I beg to differ a little bit.

One of the hallmark traits of American prep is its adoption of functionality as style. Timelessly practical tools and equipment that transcend their original purpose are cherished and repurposed. And while I readily agree that the overwrought cases and digital nature of the Casio and Timex watches are dissuasive, by comparison Luminox’s purpose built analog face is classic and functional in an attractively military way. I think it’s a perfect, albeit modern, fit.

By no means am I suggesting that you ditch your vintage Omega Seamaster Deville on a striped grosgrain strap. But, if you are engaged in a day of racing 420s on Long Island Sound or working in the yard, you just might want to opt for function over form.

Though I’ve been a fan of Luminox’s distinctive style and illumination technology, this would be a true out-of-the-box test. I’ve never owned one of their watches, let alone worn one.

Special thanks to Lumondi, Luminox’s distributor in the United States, and Princeton Watch for assistance with the review unit.

The first thing that caught my attention about the Colormark was its weight, or lack thereof. For its large 44mm size, the watch is light as a feather. It’s also very comfortable on the wrist, so much so that I often forgot it have it on. In fact, I have the watch on right now and barely notice it.

The soft neoprene strap is 20mm snout to tail, which nicely balances the visual bulk of the watch itself. The stainless buckle is double pronged which adds literal stability to the closure and aesthetic stability to the strap. The discreet date window sits at the three o’clock position and 24-hour markers ring the interior of the dial. A large and easy to grasp 60-minute timing bezel tops the case.

Turn off the lights and instantly the hands and hour markers are crisply visible as is the timing bezel’s mark. Without getting all technical, there are watch-specific sites for that sort of thing, Luminox’s proprietary lighting technology basically means the lums are always on full power. Pretty amazing stuff, and quite handy at night.

Without question this is a casual watch that does not mix well with any manner of formal clothing, nor is it meant to. The design and scale are clearly purpose-built and as noted above are so obviously functional as to be quite attractive.

Overall, this is a great option that meets your need for an everyday knock-around sports watch. It’s tough and durable, reasonably neutral in a “Navy SEALs wear these too” kind of way.

It’s also a pretty distinctive watch; I haven’t really noticed anyone else wearing one.

The Summer Scarf: Fashion or Fad?

2009-08-04T17:28:00.018-04:00

I’ll choose a third option, stylish. Is it? When I first noticed the trend, my initial reaction was something along the lines of, “oh, please…”

When it comes to styles that appear even slightly effeminate, like lightweight scarves in warm weather, American men tend to reflexively run the other way. Though intrigued, I must admit my first thought was something along the line of “not too manly, I mean it’s warm out after all.”

Then I gave it a try. And I kind of like it.

I have two summer scarves, both from Drakes-London, one of the forces promoting this look. While obviously impractical for high summer wear – though light they really do retain heat quite well – for a cool or breezy evening, they are very nice.

Worn lightly wrapped around the neck or folded and looped in a European fashion, the summer scarf takes on the look of something picked up in Marrakesh or Paris. It has a certain exotic feel to it that is more world traveler than fashion victim.

That said, achieving this kind of nonchalant elegance is a delicate balance. Summer scarves need to have a rich but muted coloring to them, and a classic but unfussy pattern. The two pictured here are the same as mine; masculine yet relaxed and un-stuffy. Drakes’ scarves are feather light, extremely malleable and made from some exceptional fabrics.

The first scarf is a vintage madras rendered in ultra fine linen. The colors are faded blue, pink, ivory and yellow.

The second is an incredibly lightweight "desert cloth," which is a blend of silk and modal. This madder red scarf is offset by a simple khaki wood block print. As a plus, both of these scarves are on sale right now, so check them out.

Lightweight, yes. Feminine? Not really. Both of these patterns are decidedly masculine and the scarves themselves look pretty natty when paired with a smartly casual outfit. If you choose to give this style a go, try and not care what anyone else thinks.

This is a leap of faith for a lot of men and ultimately, if it’s not for you then don’t wear it. It’s a personal bit of style that, while quite classic in a European way, is not really American Ivy League fashion. Think of it as a sort of hybrid sense of classic. My wife actually likes the look – frankly, that kind of surprised me.

But the simple truth is that when paired with a light sport coat or blazer and, in my case, some worn in khakis and a white oxford, it looks great. My outfit had that nice thrown together, been-around-the-world look to it. Don’t try too hard with this, just let it happen.

And don't be fooled; like I menionted earlier, when applied snugly these scarves still keep you warm. So I’m also looking forward to early autumn, when they will be perfect for those lightly chilled mornings. Lightweight warmth.

Now - if you still think this whole thing is a little off base, cruise on over to Proper Cloth's blog for their funny take on the trend.

Dunning Sportswear: Modern Classics

2009-07-28T18:41:00.009-04:00

Here at Off The Cuff, we are always happy to promote a great brand that most people have never heard about. With that, please meet Dunning Sportswear.

Apparently designer Ralph Dunning is a fan of OTC. A Toronto native and lifelong athlete, Ralph Dunning draws inspiration from his passions for sport, music, fashion and modern city and surf cultures. An IRONMAN competitor, marathoner and endurance cyclist, Dunning first entered the clothing market in the 1990s with his Rip n’ Hammer line of premium technical clothing for triathletes and cyclists.

Dunning has also designed apparel collections for some of the world’s leading sports brands, including Saucony, GT Cycles and Cervelo. So when he decided to develop a clothing line for everyday casual wear, he opted to go for a straightforward classic look.

But this preppy inspired brand is built for function. Rendered in a proprietary cotton/Coolmax blend, his clothes are both comfortable and quite sharp. Dunning Sportswear contacted OTC because they felt that our readers would appreciate an unbiased review of this “cool” brand.

Dunning’s clothes may look a bit like what you already wear, but the construction and overall brand quality are some of the best I’ve come across in a long time. But what really makes the shirts and shorts I tested stand out from the crowd is the Coolmax blended cotton fabrics.

If I did not know they were made from performance material, I never would have even guessed it. The fabric’s wicking quality kept me cool and comfortable on some darn hot and humid days.

The flat front khaki shorts are now my favorite, be it sweating in the garden or heading off to the store to pick up the latest issue of Monocle. In fact, I’m wearing them right now. After nearly a month of continuous use and abuse they look great and have stood up to all manner of maltreatment.

The gingham sport shirts are winners too. Also cotton/Coolmax blends, these “Performance Woven” button down shirts were designed in classic patterns and an array of traditional preppy colors. Actually, they are the perfect casual dress shirts for me because of the well tailored cut and light, wrinkle-free, moisture-wicking fabric.

Their classically styled polo shirts are well built and have a nice dressy feel that can easily handle the tennis court or a day out sailing.

Overall, Dunning Sportswear is a great brand that blends a classic New England functionality with hi-tech athletic materials. And you’d never know - which is what I like the best.

So what’s the problem? It’s still kind of hard to come by. Sold through country club pro shops and a limited number of retailers, the web is still your best shot. Visit Dunning's online store to learn more.

Review: Ren's Prefect Shave

2009-07-23T12:56:00.003-04:00

I am often pitched by various companies to try out their wares and then tell everyone how much I loved them.

While you do see the occasional product or brand review – usually not prompted by any product samples - trust me, there are far more that never make onto OTC.

So when Casey from Ren Skincare contacted me and asked that I try out their Perfect Shaving Kit, I was a little unsure. OTC is not a grooming site per se, but grooming is an important part of life. I had not heard of Ren, so I said yes and resolved to try it out.

I do shave almost every day and have a love/hate relationship with my razor. The electric is fine for maintenance, but I need to use an old fashioned manual razor to do the job right, even if it’s just a trim to make the stubble look sexy (or at least try to…).

The Ren products are great; in fact the Multi-Tasking Aftershave Balm is probably the best aftershave crème I’ve ever used. My face feels soothed, refreshed and cool but not “treated”. All of the products in the kit have a nice sandalwood like smell that is both light and masculine.

The Perfect Shave Kit contains a full regimen of shaving products including a cleansing gel and a micro bead scrub to prep the skin, shaving oil to set up the beard and a cooling shave cream. Once done with the shave, apply that great aftershave balm. There is also some soothing “radiant” eye gel to reduce any morning puffiness around your eyes.

I did not follow the entire step-by-step process every day, that’s a little much for me. But, when I had the time and I did use each product in order, my face – I have to say – felt and looked fantastic. While not inexpensive, their products are comparably priced to other exclusive environment and animal friendly brands.

For a great shave, OTC is happy to endorse Ren Clean Bio Active Skincare.

OTC: A Social Media Case Study? Yep.

2009-07-22T10:20:00.004-04:00

My good friend David Wescott over at It's Not A Lecture has turned Off The Cuff into a social media/blogging case study. Seriously.

David is an online communications and issue management guru who works for a global PR firm. He clearly had some spare time on his hands a few days ago when he sat down and asked me some questions about OTC, how it evolved and what might be coming down the road.

Since I launched Off The Cuff three years ago it has grown into an established site that hopefully provides you with useful and interesting information and resources for living and dressing well. With an average of 16,000 unique readers every month, OTC the brand continues to grow and evolve.

Thanks very much to David for taking an interest - he may be modest, but he's a big dog in his field - and thanks to everyone for regularly stopping by to see what's new.

Style Profile: The Obama Effect

2009-07-20T11:33:00.009-04:00

President Obama's sense of style is back on the front burner - at least in DC.

The Washington Examiner newspaper recently noted a fashion trend among the influential and political. They want to look like Barrack Obama. More specifically, they want to dress like him.

While the classic dark two-button suit is about as de rigueur as you can get in the Nation's Capitol, many men don't seem to do it very well. Those who do tend to retain the services of a custom tailor and it is these gentlemen who are spilling the beans. Tony and powerful clients, from A-list lobbyists to committee chairs, ambassadors to diplomats, all seem to be heading in the same sartorial direction. And that path leads to 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue.

According to Anthony Asaf of Empire International Custom Tailors, many of his political clients are asking for slimmer suits, trim pant legs and a more natural shoulder with less padding. Asaf, who regularly travels to Washington from Hong Kong and whose suits can run north of $4,000, says that Obama’s influence is being felt more and more in the fitting room.

FIT & BODY TYPE
One reason that President Obama is having such an impact on the suited world is that unlike many of us, he always seems to look good in a suit. Yes, they tend to be conservative, dark, two-button suits paired with white shirts and reassuring ties. But that is to be expected. He is, after all, the President of the United States and it is incumbent on him to project a solid and secure image. But what gets the attention is how Obama wears his suits; and the key there is that they fit well and they fit his body type.

Just by addressing these two factors, fit and body type, most men could improve their appearance ten-fold. One of the classic keys to looking good is knowing your body type and buying clothes that flatter your real body – not the one you wish or think you have. This is true for men of all shapes and sizes. Last year I wrote a column about one the country’s top stores for shorter men in which this exact issue was addressed.

The president is tall, over six feet, and in excellent shape. As he tends to opt for cardiovascular workouts, basketball for example, he is lean rather than bulky. His suits therefore have longer and narrower proportions. However, they do not cling to him – they are cut to provide a degree of movement and form that also balance his height and avoid a skinny, gangly appearance. The result is the now familiar trim and slightly athletic silhouette.

DETAILS
The president’s classic two-button jackets are proportionally tailored to match the longer scale of his torso – proper scale being a benefit of custom suiting that any man would appreciate. Men with similar physiques should also avoid suits that are too tight or overly fitted as they can accentuate the wearer’s skinny frame. What makes the president’s suits look so good on him is that they are fitted but not too much so.

His trousers have a trimness that still allows for fluid movement while avoiding a stick figure effect. They also tend to incorporate a generous break which provides the visual reference of grounding his legs. If he wore them with little or no break, attention would be drawn to the leg and likely give the impression of wearing “high waters”. He also appears to favor a slight tapering on the pant leg which also deemphasizes the leg’s “swing” – another problem faced by men with longer legs.

PRESENTATION
On a more philosophical level, Obama’s clothes match his persona. The clean and elegant lines of his suits, and frankly his casual wear, blend naturally with his overall demeanor.

Mr. Obama has a unique style that is new to the White House. This president is urban and urbane, intellectual and in a way quite professorial; but he is not bookish per se. Still new to the job, he is young but not immature and though he possesses echoes of John F. Kennedy’s “new vigah”, it is (to me) without any blatant imitation.

His pared down but detailed wardrobe reflects these traits. Verging on monochromatic though still fresh, elegant but sparing; his clothes reflect well on the man in a simple and straightforward manner.

Style Guide: Casual is not Sloppy

2009-07-16T15:50:00.024-04:00

Way back in the ‘80s getting dressed for the office, assuming you worked at an office, was fairly easy. It was a suit. Not a good suit mind you, but a suit. Boring shirt, forgettable tie and cap toe shoes.

More often than not the whole outfit was forgettable because so little personality was evident. Even the leading men’s fashion book of the time, the landmark “Dress For Success” essentially encouraged its readers to dress like everyone else, but perhaps in a finer cut of suit.

It was a stifling period of time that helped lend fuel to the dot-com boom of the 1990s which, among other things, turned the world of work clothing on its head. At its apex, the rules that governed the very concept of business attire and professional decorum were being tossed out the window wholesale. In formally formal workplaces casual Fridays were adopted and the predictable erosion of style ensued.

The work world devolved into a sea of pleated khakis and denim shirts.

Fast forward to today. Men’s clothing is back with a vengeance. There are many factors that went into this sea change – much of a backlash against the hyper casual-cum-sloppy look which had become annoyingly prevalent by the early ‘90s. After the economic collapse of 2008, many companies began reinstating some form of dress code and all this coincided with a resurgence of interest in men’s fashion. What’s different now is that personal style is the rule rather than the exception.

THE NEW COOL
Men are finally taking back what they gave up decades ago – good taste, style, and a sense of swagger. If the “Decade of Gap” gave us anything sartorially useful, it is the realization that guys do, in fact, have a real desire to feel good about how they look. It also gave the menswear industry the chance to essentially reinvent itself.

Dressing well is the new cool and a key aspect to the new cool is taking classics and reinterpreting them. Designers like Michael Bastian, Zanone (part of Slowear) and Billy Reid are injecting new life and a fresh perspective into classic menswear and making it feel new again.

Zanone's clean lines (also at top) & Michael Bastian's updated Americana

And it’s definitely not all about suit anymore. In fact, for a lot of men a suit is simply another option in the wardrobe; not a sacred stand-alone piece reserved for special occasions. The middle ground of of dressy casual, or business casual in office speak, is where many guys live Monday through Friday and much of the growth in the menswear market is geared for just that.

Billy Reid's timeless yet casual look

Some companies like J. Crew are being called out (by some OTC readers to be sure) for overdoing it and making the classics look more like caricature. I don't disagree that for some brands the "new preppy" is being beaten into formulaic iteration.

But not to worry, dressing well - and on your own terms - is fairly simple if you remember a couple of rules.

DON’T BE A “LOOK”
First and foremost, be true to yourself. Know what kinds of clothes you like and what looks good on you. Always pay attention to style, fit, balance and purpose. The clothes you wear should match your style and personality, they need to fit you well, they need to work with each other, and they need to make sense.

A SUIT STILL MAKES ANY GUY LOOK GOOD
Wearing a suit every day makes life relatively easy – just find a shirt and tie that match.

Even if you aren’t leading a board meeting, you can still suit up in a dressed down way. Skip the tie altogether and toss on a patterned shirt with a shorter spread collar and high second button.

President Obama popularized this look on the campaign trail while sporting mainly solid white or blue shirts. George Clooney also makes this work; but then again he’s George Clooney.

Obama's popular open collar look

Clooney goes for an extra button

The main point is that you don’t want to look like you forgot your tie – you want to look like you don’t need one. To inject a little color into the outfit, pocket squares are a simple option.

When it comes to the suit, classic really is best: single breasted, notch lapel, two-button. If you want to personalize a little bit, try peaked lapels instead of notched and double vents instead of the standard American single vent.

If you really want the three-button jacket go for a “3/2 roll” which just means that the top button rolls with the lapel and gives the overall appearance of a two-button jacket. Try and avoid ventless jackets, they can seem dated and are frankly uncomfortable to wear.

If this is your first “good” suit classic grey or blue will be most versatile. Take some time and pick a shade that best suits your complexion and personality. You can always add patterns and striped later.

Ede and Ravenscroft of London - a very nice suit

Always keep in mind that depending where you are in the country, or world for that matter, regional traditions will always dictate what is appropriate. A sport coat and nice pants may be considered dressy in Las Vegas, but if you’re meeting in New York it should probably be coat and tie.

SANS THE SUIT
While dressing well doesn’t necessarily mean dressing up, that is no excuse to look like you’re taking out the trash.

Even when you’re not obligated to, try and go for a more polished look when heading off to the office. That means tailored clothing – stuff that both fits your style but also your body. Properly fitted clothes makes you look better, thinner and smart. The look below, from Hermes, is an excellent example of a casually stylish outfit that would look great on almost anyone.

Hermes: Fall 2009

A classic blue blazer, with or without brass buttons, is an exceedingly useful article of clothing. It’s the workhorse of your wardrobe and can cover you in most any situation. Pair it with dress pants and a cashmere sweater, beat up khakis and polo shirt, or your favorite jeans and Turnbull & Asser shirt; it works with everything.

Well fitting, classic separates

So, don’t be afraid to try something new and bring your work wardrobe into the 21st century. By updating classic cornerstones – the suit, the blazer, the dress shirt and the pocket square – you can give your own sense of style a grown up look without looking dated.

The Brand of You (Part 2)

2009-07-10T16:05:00.011-04:00

In Part One of this essay, we discussed some of the recent and dramatic changes that have set the concept and practice of brand loyalty on a dramatically new course.

It’s still an ongoing shift, but the edges of the curve of the new pathway are becoming clearer.

In plain terms, what is changing, and by extension changing how companies market their wares, is that basic level of customer loyalty to a brand is becoming fragmented and layered. A simple statement like, “I like Ralph Lauren” is now more of an, “I like Ralph Lauren polo shirts, but I like J. Press oxfords. And I prefer vintage jeans.” The cache of a single brand defining a customer’s life is fast fading.

Combine that with a collapsed economy and gutted luxury market and you have a rapidly evolving landscape when it comes to telling all your potential customers exactly who you are and why you matter. And speaking of numbers, don’t expect to see the like of 2008 sales figures until at least 2012. From couture to watches and handbags to footwear, the overall luxury market has significantly retracted. And that directly affects the related mass luxury and aspirational markets.

Another factor is the quality issue. With purchases being scrutinized by customers like never before, those labels that grew at a global scale and licensed out all their branded accessories may face the wrath of buyers tired of sub-par quality for the sake of the name. It’s fair to say that smaller brands with tight controls on design, production and quality – and who actually make things people want to buy – will win out in the coming loyalty game. Luxury again is going to mean exclusivity.

ALL ABOUT THE GUYS
Not all is totally bleak, however. Menswear is faced with another, albeit happier, wrinkle. All those men who for generations did not care much about this season’s Pantone color or whether summer scarves are “in” are not only becoming active in their fashion choices but actually becoming market movers. Across the spectrum of retail, men are taking a more active role in outfitting their own wardrobes, carefully selecting accessories and fussing over things like quality and provenance. Retailers quickly took notice and have both broadened and deepened their menswear selections.

The reasons are myriad, but many men have shaken off the stale myth that they don’t care about style, fashion, luxury and looking good. When Off The Cuff hit the web way back in 2006, most of the sites now listed in OTC’s blog roll did not even exist. Today however, guys are looking for help and advice on all matters sartorial. Men now actively seek out information and feedback about products, brands and trends that interest them.

More to the point, they are also looking for validation and community about the brands that they like. The brand itself is not enough; they want to be part of a sartorial tribe, if you will. To be sure, there is also a strong desire to stand alone, to be unique. We all want the one thing that sets us apart from the herd – but not too far. Most of us want to stand out just enough to let the others know that we are our own man, but not be a jerk about it.

For example, I’ll be writing shortly about Kobold watches. The upstart high-end adventure watch company is now 10 years old but still a niche brand and many of its adherents like it that way. To them it adds a layer of respectable obscurity to something most men consider a key marker of status and personality. In a sense, its unique personality increases its value.

As the concept of what exactly a brand means and who decides if it’s worth something becomes more decentralized, defining who you are is becoming more personal and individual. And with men educating themselves about style, fashion, etiquette and luxury, brands that heretofore could consider themselves one-stop-shops will have to change their approach.

SHIFTING GEARS
Some large brands are trying to address this issue. J. Crew, a company that now intently focuses on its male customers, developed the Liquor Store men’s shop in New York’s SoHo to highlight limited edition wares. J. Crew also produces a regular men’s only catalog that stresses unique product collaborations with specialized partners.

This approach allows the overall brand to remain whole but provide customers with a sense of individuality and more importantly, the feeling that these specialized products meet a higher standard, like Red Wing boots for example.

It all boils down to a growing customer base that simply does not need to be told who they are or what they really want or what kind of life they should lead. They may read lots of fashion and style magazines and check out yours truly on blogger, but they are the ones who decide what their “look” is. The brands need to meet their approval.

The Panerai Marina

Let’s say I like Panerai watches (who doesn’t?), and maybe I want to buy one. I look through the company website, of course. But I also check out the blogosphere and look up feedback on specific models. Who’s tested and reviewed one, and if so which one? Any tweets? Where can I find one on the secondary market, and what does Watch Report or Hodinkee say? All this before I ever get close to a salesman or company representative.

IT'S ALL ABOUT ME (AND YOU)
In my own case, there are several brands that right off the bat fit my own self image: J. Crew, J. Press, Drakes London, Michael Bastain, Ralph Lauren and Slowear for example. But it’s not only clothing. When I think of my personal brand, I also think of Monocle magazine, Filson bags, my favorite Omas 360 pen, Moleskine notebooks or the sterling silver money clip from Tiffany that was a gift from my wife. Even the waxed cord from the hang tag on my Jack Spade bag connects me to that brand just a little bit more. I wear it on my wrist.

All of these outside brands are part of my own personal brand, but I am not a whole-cloth adherent to any one of them. Basically, I’m vetting the brand to see if it meets my standards and fits into my life.

Since people now have multiple sources to learn about style and fashion, history, culture, craftsmanship and etiquette – all the things that go into one’s sense of personal taste and style – a “brand” is now more about the customer than, well, the brand.

The brand needs to fit who I am, not the other way around.