Been There Eaten That

Mintwood Place is a smash hit. The TV show …maybe not so much

2012-02-24T01:17:21Z

Rent, Wicked, The Producers, Book of Mormon, Aida, and Les Miserables are some of my favorites musicals. Next to a good restaurant meal, there is nothing quite like a good Broadway show to get my heart pumping. I’m also a fan of Glee (although it may be jumping the shark). So when I heard that another musical television show was about to debut, it was time to cue the applause. Early reviews of Smash, which is about the creation of a Broadway musical based on the life of Marilyn Monroe, were promising. I thoroughly enjoyed the first episode. Episode two left me feeling a little bored, and more focused on simultaneous games of “Words with Friends.” Episode three, which aired this past week, had a few too many moments that made me cringe. The acting seemed off and the story lines too predictable. I’ll keep watching (for now), but my level of enthusiasm is diminished.*

Like Smash, anticipation for the recently opened Mintwood Place has been equally high. The chef, Cedric Maupillier, who previously was at the helm of the kitchen at Michel Richard’s Central, is considered a star. Accolades came quickly after the opening. In his early review, Tom Sietsema of The Washington Post writes:

“As far as this diner is concerned, the only thing ablaze is my eagerness to return.”

From Todd Kliman of The Washingtonian‘s online chat on Feb. 22:

“New and not to be missed: Mintwood Place, in Adams Morgan, where Cedric Maupillier (formerly the chef at Central, and before that the chef de cuisine at Citronelle) is doing typically great work — cranking out straight-on bistro classics like cassoulet and steak tartare, as well as offering up some sly, smart takes on tradition (frogs’ legs with black walnut romesco, a lamb tongue moussaka).

There have also been multiple tweets singing the praises of Mintwood Place. Sometimes its advisable to wait for a restaurant to settle in before giving it a shot. I decide this is not one of those times.

Mintwood Place only accepts reservations from 5:30 to 6:30 and after 10:00 pm. One thing I will not do is wait an hour or more for a table, so we go for the 6:30 reservation. Manu of the tables are already filled. There is one small problem. It’s just my husband and I who are dining here, which means I can only taste so much food. The menu isn’t overwhelming, but there are definitely multiple things I would like to try. I resist the urge to order escargot hush puppies, even though this is a dish that has already gained attention. I definitely need to bring a shellfish eater with me next time.

The decor at Mintwood Place is quite an eclectic mix. There is brick; there is wood; there is iron; there are gears; there are lightening rods, etc. Someone had fun scouring antique stores and thrift shops. It all works together to form a cozy- although boisterous- environment.

: https://www.facebook.com/MintwoodPlace

https://www.facebook.com/MintwoodPlace

We begin our meal by sharing goat cheese and beet mountain pie. The crispy on the outside pie is filled with creamy goat cheese. I was expecting the beets to be inside but instead the pie rests atop sliced beets and lightly dressed butter lettuce. I like the texture and the slow ooze of the cheese as I bite into it. For me, a couple of bites is a delicious overture before the heavier dish that follows.

My main course is the hearty and flavorful cassoulet featuring thickly cut pieces of duck, sausage, and pork belly. It’s not a cold night, but this is the kind of dish you wished you had if it was. Todd Kliman says it is “worth going there just for that.” I am actually more enamored of my husband’s dish.

My husband has the whole boneless dorade with braised fennel and picholine olive. The skin is crispy, the inside is moist, and the combination of fennel and olive is stunning. The cassoulet is quite good, but I seriously covet the dorade.

We also share a side of cauliflower and mushrooms, which is simple and rustic, and very tasty.

I am seriously full but my husband convinces me to share a slice of apple pie. (it didn’t really happen this way, but it makes to feel better to think it did). The apple pie is not to be missed. It’s got a crispy crust sprinkled with sugar, delicious firm apples, and wonderful ice cream with a touch of caramel sauce. Next time I may have to start with this so I’m not too stuffed to enjoy it.

The service at Mintwood Place is excellent, particularly considering it is still so new and busy. The tables are a little close together, so it’s not ideal for private conversations. It does work if you are up for sharing thoughts about the food with your neighbors- which we do. It’s rewarding to see that an enthusiasm for the cooking is all around us.

Smash and Mintwood Place both had promising openings. Unfortunately, viewership for Smash is dropping while the restaurant continues to gain fans. It’s not easy when expectations are high. You have to maintain the public’s interest and then word of mouth becomes crucial to sustained success. Smash still needs to work on getting all the pieces to fit. Mintwood Place already has the ingredients to be a smashing success.

Mintwood Place, 1813 Columbia Road, NW
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 4.4

Washington Post review

* This article from Huffington Post says Episode 4 of Smash is the best yet. I’ll be watching.

Beefing up at Hill Country Barbecue

2012-02-20T04:01:31Z

I steer away from eating beef on a regular basis (pun intended). I am not immune to its charms, but I try to limit my intake to about once a week. This works better for me some weeks than others.

I have wanted to dine at Hill Country Barbecue since it debuted in DC last year. Food & Wine named it one of the best new barbecue restaurants in America, which obviously grabs my attention. But my dining to do list is longer than a country mile, and I don’t have that many people in my life who will accompany me for barbeque, hence the delay.

The time is right. I’ve got the two friends who dined with me at the all-beef Medium Rare raring to go. A 30% off deal at the website Savored is added incentive. (here’s a link to a Savored invite. It’s worth checking out.)

As described on the Hill Country website: Hill Country honors the barbecue and live music capital of Texas and takes its “cue” from the legendary meat-markets-turned-barbecue-joints of Central Texas with their distinctive, dry-rub style… brisket, sausage, ribs and other meats are smoked low and slow over Texas post oak and are served on butcher paper, counter-style by the pound as is traditional in Central Texas.

As we enter the restaurant my friend and I turn to each other simultaneously and say “wow.” The place is buzzing. I’m wondering if this is going to be one of those deafening experiences that is somewhat difficult to swallow. Fortunately, we are led away from the center of the restaurant and seated closer to the food area, where it is miraculously a bit quieter. Once seated we can really soak in the super casual Texas-style atmosphere.

We are greeted by an enthusiastic hostess, followed by an equally passionate server. They clearly love the food here. They point out their favorites and explain the concept. We are given a meal ticket to start and directed to the meat counter as well as where the sides are being dished out cafeteria style. My friend remarks that the meal ticket/cafeteria approach takes her back to her college days. Good for her- I can’t remember that far back. We like that the lines move quickly so there are no long waits for our food. We’re anxious to dig in.

There are a variety of meat choices, and we have a hard time deciding what and how much to get. I end up with 1/4 lb. of moist brisket (as opposed to the lean), two pork spare ribs, and 1/2 a Kreuz sausage with jalapeno cheese. The three of us share macaroni and cheese and sweet potato bourbon mash. I also have a small cucumber salad, because I want some kind of healthy contrast against the meat and rich sides.

The brisket is tender and juicy with a wonderful smoky flavor. The ribs are good, although I am not the biggest fan of the Texas-style dry rub. I add some sauce, which makes it just right.

The spicy sausage has tons of flavor. It’s a little too hot to eat all at once, so I alternate between bites of the other meats.

The macaroni and cheese is a little dull, but I make it better by adding just a touch of hot sauce. The sweet potato mash is a tad too sweet. A few bites are a perfect accompaniment to the meat. My instincts are right about the cool cucumber salad. It’s a bit heavy on the vinegar but at least it’s not loaded with fat. The sides are more than adequate, but the star attraction is definitely the meat.

I’ve seen mixed reviews for the ordering system at Hill Country, but I think it’s a plus. You can eat as much or as little meat as you like. If you come up short on the first round, you can mosey on back for more. We’re not moseying however. We are stuffed. In fact, I can’t even look at the display of cupcakes. You know I’m full if I’m passing on an opportunity for cupcakes.

Hill Country Barbecue is worth a visit for any carnivore. It’s fun, it’s flavorful, and it’s definitely filling. In fact, it’s a few days later and the thought of eating all that red meat is still weighing on me. And I mean that in every sense of the word.

Hill Country Barbecue, 410 Seventh Street NW, Washington, DC
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 3.4

Looking for love at Lebanese Taverna and GrillMarX for Valentine’s Day

2012-02-17T03:42:50Z

Dining out on Valentine’s Day is something that makes me feel damned if I do, and damned if I don’t. I know that the crowds can adversely affect the quality of the food. Yet I also know that if my husband and I stay home, I’ll just end up wishing we were out. Damn.

In the end, Valentine’s Day this year warrants not one but two meals out. First up is Sunday brunch at GrillMarX Steakhouse & Raw Bar in Olney. I am with a large group who get together annually to celebrate the big V Day, but never on the actual day. The decision to go to GrillMarX appeals to me. I haven’t been yet, and it’s on the list. There is a $20 per person brunch buffet. While I view this as a good deal, ultimately my husband and I decide to order off the menu. We’re just not feeling the buffet. Instead, we share a spinach omelette and French toast bread pudding, which both have a little more pizzazz.

The eggs are nice and fluffy, although I would appreciate more spinach and a little less egg.

The bread pudding is a generous serving, although I find it a bit heavy. A few bites are perfect, but more than that gets tiresome. The presentation, however, is quite appealing.

If I am looking for love here, I would say it can be found in the prime rib (I sneak a bite off of my friend’s plate from the buffet), and in a first class Bloody Mary with homemade horseradish and rimmed with Old Bay spice.

GrillMarX is all about its hickory wood burning grill, so I’m not going to judge it based on eggs and french toast. The bite of prime rib is enough to whet my appetite. I’ll come back for dinner. Hopefully soon.

The real Valentine’s Day dinner has been a challenge in terms of deciding where to go. I tell my husband that I don’t want anything fancy and I don’t want to go downtown. I leave the rest to him. This is not an easy thing for me to do. When he suggests Lebanese Taverna in Bethesda, where they have a dinner special featuring unlimited mezze, I am tempted to say no because I really was thinking about something much more casual. I’m also wondering about the quality compared to a regular night of made-to-order dishes. But then I remember I’ve left this up to him. I am proud of myself for actually giving up the control.

I’m actually happy to see that Lebanese Taverna is packed, even though it may mean longer waits for food. But the crowds serve to validate our decision, which I know is contradictory to my original fear of Valentine’s Day crowds. (go figure) The server tells us that we can order as many items as we want from a list of 30 choices. We can have seconds on any of the options. The only stipulation is that we are asked to only order a few at a time, so as not to overwhelm the kitchen.

We enjoy bread dipped in zatar while we await our appetizers: baba ghannouge (their spelling not mine), grape leaves, and fattoush peasant salad. It’s a solid beginning.

We go our separate ways on the hot mezze. I have shrimp arak and lamb/beef flatbread, while my husband has cheese pies and salmon. He raves about the salmon, which is topped with grilled vegetables, tomato, cilantro, and pine nut sauce. We share herb fries, which are too soggy for me to enjoy.

I’m not over the moon about any of my dishes, but at the same time I’m perfectly content.

lamb/beef flatbread

While we are welcome to try more dishes, we’re stuffed. The dinner deal includes one dessert for each of us, so we can’t pass that up. I have fried donuts, which may have been good had they been served to me a few minutes sooner. My husband’s molten chocolate cake isn’t particularly remarkable.

This is one of those meals where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. This is my third visit to Lebanese Taverna and I know it won’t be my last. I am sure that the unlimited mezze is a challenge to the kitchen and wait staff, but as a diner it suits the occasion. My expectations are more than met.

While I am not exactly raving about either of my Valentine’s Day meals, I am not complaining either. Sometimes the food doesn’t have to be spectacular. It can also be about having a love-ly meal with a loved one.

GrillMarX Steakhouse & Raw Bar, 18149 Town Center Drive, Olney

Lebanese Taverna, 7141 Arlington Road, Bethesda

My new souperhero: the kosher Soupergirl in Takoma Park

2012-02-12T19:32:55Z

I feel incredibly fortunate that my two grown children live nearby in DC. I am aware that it may not be a permanent situation, so I treasure our times together in a way that they can’t begin to understand. Neither one of my kids are going to say no if we offer to take them out for a meal. For the past couple of years my daughter has only eaten out in Kosher restaurants, so there are limitations. Nevertheless, there are options, including Max’s Kosher Cafe in Wheaton. In fact, their schwarma is one of my favorite dishes in the entire area.

We decide it’s time to try someplace different. I suggest meeting at the relatively new Soupergirl, a small cafe in Takoma Park. It’s certified kosher for my daughter and husband, vegan for my son, and well there’s soup for me.

My husband and I enter the cute and cozy Soupergirl, where our kids have been waiting for us for no more than three minutes.

“You’re late,” my son says impatiently.

“Mom, why do you look so excited to see us? We just saw you a week ago,” remarks my daughter. (Actually it’s been two weeks.)

“Because you’re my kids.” I reply. “I’m always happy to see you.” Sigh.

The manager, standing directly behind us at the register, is finding this scene amusing. We’re taking up space in the small restaurant, so it’s time to stop the sentimental familial greetings and get down to business.

Soupergirl is a no-frills kind of place, a brick and mortar outgrowth of a successful soup delivery service. Being green is an essential part of the business. According to the website: We here at Soupergirl are souper-focused (yes, we enjoy making soup puns…) on being an environmentally and socially responsible company….We are passionate about eating locally.
Local is good, kosher is great, we are in.

from www.facebook.com/pages/Soupergirl/35387288780

The menu is a focused one. There is soup, bread (brought in from nearby Breadsmith), and a few side dishes. On this Sunday afternoon, there are three types of fresh soup (soups rotate weekly), with an option for a large bowl or a sampler with two smaller bowls. There are chunky soups and pureed soups. I can’t make up my mind, so the sampler wins.

I begin with the black bean chili with sweet potatoes. This hearty soup is a combination of black beans, sweet potatoes, and spices including chili powder, cumin, and smokey chipotle chile. Lime and cilantro round out the flavors. The sweet potatoes add a unique note to the Latin ingredients. Nicely done.

My second choice is Tunisian chickpea soup which combines chickpeas, lentils, and Israeli couscous with turmeric, cumin, cinnamon, fennel, and Spanish smoked paprika. The flavors are a bit more mellow compared to the chili. I add homemade “souper croutons” for some extra crunch. This is a filling and satisfying soup.

Soupergirl Tunisian chickpea soup

Soupergirl also offers a variety of side salads. The Asian Coleslaw is packing some heat (chili and cayenne peppers) along with some sweet (brown sugar). It’s nice to balance out the hot soup with some cool, fresh slaw. Beet salad completes our meal, combining golden beets, Chioggia beets, and Detroit red beets with dill. I would not consider a return trip to Soupergirl without sampling – and bringing home- more of the delicious sides.

Soupergirl Asian slaw

We take home some leftover beet salad, along with a pint of Sweet N’ Tart Butternut squash soup, so that we can prolong the enjoyment. We think this creamy, tangy soup is a real winner. All four of us are impressed by a souperb lunch.

After lunch, we take advantage of the beautiful weather and wander through Takoma Park’s vintage shops and boutiques. I’m particularly taken with a store called Trohv (as in treasure trove). I haven’t been to Takoma Park in well over a year, and it feels like we are on a mini-vacation.

www.trohvshop.com

Soup is a well-known comfort food, and Soupergirl is most certainly an adept provider. I am disappointed that I didn’t get to meet Soupergirl’s owner/chef Sara Polon during our visit. I admire her passion to be green in all aspects of her business, and I am grateful that she has gone the extra mile to be certified Kosher. Plus, she gave my family an opportunity to spend a few hours together doing what we do best: eating and shopping. She’s definitely my new souperhero.

Soupergirl, 314 Carroll Street, NW, Washington, DC (across from Takoma Park metro) Closed Saturdays.
Check out the website for delivery locations and soupsubscriptions.

My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 4

Washington Post review

The burger craze continues at Kraze Burgers in Bethesda

2012-02-07T00:25:54Z

Every now and then I like to sink my teeth into a good burger. It’s not something I necessarily go out of my way for, but I can appreciate a serving of high quality chopped meat and some select toppings on an occasional basis. In the DC area, there is a hierarchy in terms of burger-centric places with Ray’s Hell-Burger and BGR: The Burger Joint at the top of my pyramid. In the middle there is Shake Shack and Good Stuff Eatery on down to Five Guys. (I am not counting McDonald’s or the like in the equation.)

The proliferation of burger places continues, particularly in the downtown area. Burger Tap & Shake, from the Passion Food Group, is on the top of my list to try. They have boozy milkshakes, so this place has to be worth a shot. But it’s not always about DC. Bethesda now has Kraze Burgers.

Kraze Burgers hails from Korea, which is not the first place you think about when burgers come to mind. After a successful run overseas Kraze Burgers is now being brought to America with its very first location in Bethesda. I’m hoping for some Korean flavors to accent the burgers, which come from “all-natural, never frozen, hormone-free beef.” This is a good thing, but not particularly unique these days.

I meet my husband and BFF at Kraze Burgers one evening before a play at Roundhouse Theater. I like the atmosphere, which is modern meets environmental, with touches of that electric green color that is so popular in yogurt places. It makes me feel like I am about to eat something healthier I actually am.

I scan the menu, encouraged that a Korean bulgogi sauce is offered as a topping. I am looking for a hook here, something to distinguish it from the other burger joints in town. There’s not much of a nod to Korea beyond the bulgogi. There is a Hawaiian burger with pineapple, a French burger with braised mushrooms and leeks, and a whole bunch of burgers featuring bacon. You can also build your own burger.

I order the Hawaiian burger with a side of bulgogi sauce. The Hawaiian features grilled pineapple, mango sauce, Swiss cheese, mixed greens, tomato, lettuce, mayo, and Kraze’s cream cheese sauce. The bun (baked fresh daily) is a standout- lightly toasted and surprisingly resistant to being overcome by soggy sauces. My favorite part is the lightly grilled sweet pineapple. Fruit and burgers make such a nice pair. The cream cheese and mango sauces along with the Swiss cheese all meld together into one. It’s not as flavorful as it sounds. I also don’t find the meat particularly distinguishable. A bit more seasoning would help.

Kraze Burger Hawaiian burger

My husband and BFF both order the Classic Veggie burger. They agree it’s a cut above the standard. It’s topped with the Bulgogi sauce, which is slightly sweet and mildly spicy. It comes on a multi-grain bun, which looks even better than the plain bun. My husband tops his burger with a fried egg, which adds a layer of interest. He still thinks it needs something extra to give it more crunch and heat. Jalapenos are available as an option, which he decides later would have been a welcome addition. I say, where’s the kimchi? This extra-spicy Korean dish would certainly have kicked things up a notch.

Kraze Burgers classic veggie burger

Kraze Burgers also offers a “vege and bean burger “with grilled tofu. Vegetarians are so often ignored in burger restaurants, so it is a welcome change to see options. Sides include herb fries, chili cheese fries, and sweet potato fries, as well as grilled asparagus, fruit, or a side salad. We opt for sweet potato fries. They are crisp and not at all greasy, but not as hot I would like. They are the perfect vehicle, however, for the bulgogi sauce.

The name begs the question. Am I crazy about Kraze Burgers? I’m not feeling it as destination dining. But it’s not a bad choice if you’re craving a quick burger in Bethesda. Call me crazy, but if they would just add some kimchi to the topping choices, it would make a world of difference.

Kraze Burgers, 4733 Elm Street, Bethesda, MD
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 3.2

Washington Post review

Washington Post best bets for burgers

The stars don’t quite align in New Orleans but the food shines

2012-02-01T00:42:13Z

On my last visit to New Orleans, almost exactly one year ago, my trip was made memorable by a movie shoot that took place in the alley outside my hotel. My fascination with Hollywood meant that I couldn’t tear myself away from watching on the sidelines. When I finally went to my room, I could still see and hear some of the action from my window.

I am in NOLA again for a meeting. What this means to me in simple terms is two lunches, two dinners, and a visit to Cafe du Monde. I am staying in the same hotel as my previous visit. I have no expectations about movie shoots this time around, but high expectations for the food.

Our group gathers in the hotel lobby to head to dinner at August, a restaurant owned by famed New Orleans chef John Besh. I know him from appearances on “Top Chef Masters” as a contestant, and a special guest on the current season of “Top Chef.” As we approach the restaurant some of the street is closed off and there are lights, cameras, and action. An upcoming television show called “Common Law” is being filmed. I am trying to be in professional mode, so while I don’t curb my enthusiasm, I am not my usual crazed self. Which is not to say I ignore the situation entirely. I do a quick Google search to see who’s in the show. There’s no one I am familiar with, so I can calm down and focus on my dinner.

Moments later someone comments that while we were gathered in the hotel lobby, Mark Wahlberg passed right through the center of our group. He is in town shooting a movie. He has also been spotted in the elevator and hotel bar. My professional mode dissipates, as I can’t hide my excitement at the possibility of a major star sighting.

Back to our meal, which is punctuated by a few visits to the window to check on the progress of the television show filming below. It must be noted that I am not the only one who is interested.

We are in a private room with a set menu, two choices for each course. I begin with braised veal cheek ravioli with wild mushrooms, porcini marmalade, and leek froth. The first bite surprises me with its deep flavor- a combination of earthy mushrooms and a delicately sweet marmalade. The leek froth adds interest in both appearance and texture. I am not sure why it’s referred to as froth vs. the more commonly used foam. As far as I can tell, they are one and the same.

braised veal cheek ravioli

The next dish is local organic greens with candied pumpkin seeds and Point Reyes blue cheese. It’s a surprise that the candied pumpkin seeds are actually a brittle: sweet, buttery, and crunchy. I am grateful for the sparing use of the pumpkin seeds. The combination of the sugary crispy treat and the soft blue cheese is terrific. This dish is my favorite of the night, and one that I think I can and hopefully will make at home.

salad with organic greens, pumpkin seed brittle, and blue cheese

My entree is grilled filet of beef with asparagus, smoked marrow and truffade potatoes, and sauce bordelaise. The beef is perfectly cooked, tender and pink. The sauce and potatoes complement it with fairly strong flavors of smoke and wood. Some people in the group find the flavors too strong and unfamiliar, but for me its a hit. A few people at my table have ordered brick grilled breast of free range chicken on a bed of cipollini. They aren’t enamored of the dish because it doesn’t taste like chicken. Like the meat, it has hints of smoke and wood.

grilled filet of beef

I am disappointed by the dessert, which is Père Roux’s banana rum cake with white chocolate and Creole cream cheese icing. Père Roux is John Besh’ s best friend, and this is a cake he bakes for his own birthday every year. Most of the people at my table find it too sweet. My main issue is that the rum flavor is overpowering. I crave something sweet so I take a few bites, but no more. My displeasure isn’t completely unanimous- others praise the dessert.

banana rum cake

During the meal I ask whether Chef Besh is in the house. Knowing that he owns nine restaurants, I am not expecting a yes. I am told that he is at the Sundance Film Festival in Utah. New Orleans and the film world intersect again, but this time in the opposite direction. The server tells us that Chef Besh keeps a close watch on the restaurant, whether he is present or not. That’s nice to hear. But of course I am disappointed to have my second strike out of the evening, after unknowingly being inches away from Mark Wahlberg.

Despite a somewhat “bittersweet” ending to my meal I conclude the evening as a fan of August. The portions are sized just right. The presentation is beautiful. And as one of my colleague notes, many of the dishes contain an element of surprise beyond what is conveyed through the menu. I would eagerly return to August, perhaps when I have more freedom to make my own selections.

The next morning three of us take a walk through the beautiful Garden District. We are pointed in the direction of Coliseum Street, which has incredible homes, including one belonging to Sandra Bullock. A Bullock sighting would definitely trump the non-sightings of Besh and Wahlberg. We are admiring the architecture when a woman pulls out of her driveway, stops her car, and asks us where we are from. She spends a good ten minutes chatting with us. She talks about the neighborhood (Sandra Bullock is rarely there) and says she would invite us in to see her home except that she has someplace to be. But we should check it out on the cover of a book by Brian Batt called “Big Easy Style.” She starts to say that he is a Broadway star, but I recognize the name immediately from his role on the series “Mad Men.”

Brian Batt from www.bigeasystyle.com

We are overwhelmed by this gregarious woman. The likelihood of a similar encounter occurring in the DC area is slim. We find “Big Easy Style” at the airport and the interior of the home is indeed stunning. An article from New Orleans Magazine, in addition to Batt’s book, gives us a peek inside and tells us a bit about Sally Edrington, the owner who is so welcoming to three strangers on the street. Does this count as a star sighting?

Sally directs us to a nearby place called The Grocery for lunch. The Grocery is a small neighborhood sandwich shop. I have a muffuletta, which is a signature sandwich of New Orleans, characterized by a distinctive pressed bread and olive salad. The lean meats (salami and ham), and melted cheese (provolone and swiss), balance nicely with the saltiness of the homemade olive salad. This is a charming little place, perfect for a quick stop while taking in the Garden District sights.

muffuletta

Our dining excursions also include lunch at Deanie’s Seafood in the French Quarter. I have a shrimp po’ boy and a soup sampler featuring gumbo, crawfish bisque, and crawfish etoufee. The soup portions are way more generous than expected. The gumbo is my favorite of the trio. There’s a rich broth and delicious bits of sausage and seafood.

soup sampler

The po’ boy consists of plenty of lightly fried shrimp on toasted bread with lettuce, tomato, and pickles. I am not blown away by the flavor, but perhaps I’m just too full from the soup. Honestly, I’m just happy to be in New Orleans…eating.

shrimp po' boy

We also have dinner at Mr. B’s Bistro, which is part of the famous Brennan’s restaurant group. My sister has recently returned from New Orleans, and declared the barbeque shrimp at Mr. B’s one of the “best things she’s ever eaten.” She is not alone in this. It’s a signature dish. I barely glance at the menu. I am ready for some head-on shrimp with spicy, buttery, barbeque sauce. The dish comes with a bib. I do not shy away from this. I am certain it is a necessity, which it is. I love the tangy, Creole barbeque sauce, which is even better soaked up with the bread.

bbq shrimp

Someone in our group orders fried oysters with bacon-horseradish hollandaise sauce. I have never been an oyster fan, but I am assured that if I take a bite I will like it. Revelation- if you coat something (anything) in a high quality batter and add a tasty sauce, it’s really, really good. Other highlights of the meal include garlic truffle french fries, and a fantastic honey-glazed ginger pork chop, which I am fortunate enough to sample.

truffle fries

When I arrive back at BWI Airport, I get in my car and turn the radio to CNN, which is airing “Piers Morgan Tonight.” Piers is in the midst of an interview with… Mark Wahlberg. I sigh, wishing once again that I would have at least caught a glimpse of the star. I have to be content with the fact that New Orleans offers a stellar selection of restaurants, featuring dishes with deliciously distinct and ambitious flavors. They shine pretty brightly in their own right.

August, 301 Tchoupitoulas St., New Orleans, LA

The Grocery, 2854 St. Charles Ave, New Orleans, LA

Deanie’s Seafood, 841 Iberville Street, New Orleans, LA

Mr. B’s Bistro, 201 Royal Street, New Orleans, LA

Nava Thai Noodle and Grill: The Heat Goes On

2012-01-26T04:04:21Z

Most Saturday nights my preference is to head from where I live in Silver Spring to downtown DC for dinner. But sometimes it is actually a relief to know I am staying close to home. If we can drive ten minutes to dinner rather than the close to an hour it usually ends up taking to get downtown, that leaves an extra 50 minutes to catch up with the backlog on my DVR. Let’s not underestimate the importance of clearing space on a DVR that’s 89% full. Those “Chopped” episodes add up.

We have plans with longtime friends to go to dinner and a movie. Whoever schedules movie times does not take dinner plans into consideration for those of us who don’t want to see a movie at 9:30 pm. A perfect solution ends up being dinner at Nava Thai Noodle and Grill in Wheaton and an on-demand viewing of Ides of March.

I’ve been to Nava Thai on a number of occasions but it’s been quite some time. Nava Thai has just made its first appearance on Washingtonian‘s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2012. I would have made it back here this year anyway, but of course now that it appears on “the list” I’m a bit more compelled.

I don’t recall a Japanese menu from previous visits, but we’re handed one along with the Thai version. I am here for Thai food so I don’t even glance at other options. The first thing I notice is the lack of vegetarian appetizers. I am with three non meat-eaters so I am a bit dismayed by this. Our server directs us to the curry puffs. I may not have ordered curry puffs if other options had been available. As it turns out I am glad to have the opportunity for the puffs. They are perfectly crisped and steaming hot out of the oven. Inside is a creamy mixture of potato and peas. The flavors tend to the sweet more than the spicy and the curry is subtle. This is a dish I would happily eat again (and probably again).

curry puffs

For my entree I order Floating Market Noodle Soup with beef. There is a vibrant array of flavors and textures: crispy pork rind, fresh crunchy scallions, tender beef, and rubbery meatballs. I am not a big fan of the meatball texture, but the other ingredients more than make up for this.

Every time I dine at Nava Thai when asked about my desired level of spice for my dish, I reply medium hot. Every time I dine at Nava Thai my dish comes out extra spicy. I mean sweat-inducing spicy. I persist in this foolish habit because I am afraid that if I ask for my food to be mild there will be a lack of flavor. Note to self: at Nava Thai medium spicy means extra hot. I guess the fact that I’m sweating while eating does not translate to burning the same amount of calories as a workout. Or does it? I would deem this a destination dish- worth traveling for.

floating market noodle soup

My husband has hot and sour curry fish, which tends towards the sour rather than the blistering hot. The fish itself is not distinctive but overall the vegetables and broth hit the spot.

hot and sour fish

My friends have sweet and sour fish and mixed vegetables with black bean sauce. There aren’t tons of options that don’t include meat or shellfish but these two dishes are fully satisfying. The fish is lightly battered and while the sauce is heavy, it isn’t cloyingly sweet.

sweet and sour tilapia

mixed vegetables with black bean sauce

I am enthralled by stories about my friends’ kids recent visit to Africa, so I don’t pay much attention to their dishes. Sometimes I forget about blogging and get lost in conversation. I’m still learning how to multitask in this regard. I do remember to ask for opinions at the end of the meal. The consensus is that Nava Thai is an ideal spot for a casual, local, above average dining experience. My dish is pretty darn delicious and from past experience I would say that there is much left to explore on this menu- particularly for meat and shellfish eaters.

The next day I resume my love/hate relationship with my leftover searing soup. It’s mostly love, but when tears come to my eyes and my throat starts to close, there’s a little animosity there as well. I guess I’m a glutton for punishment because I can’t wait to get back to Nava Thai for dinner and maybe a movie. Perhaps “Some Like it Hot?”

Nava Thai Noodle and Grill, 11301 Fern St, Wheaton, MD
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 3.6
Washingtonian‘s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2012, 2.5 stars (out of 4)

Washingtonian Cheap Eats 2011 review

Komi- you had me at hello

2012-01-20T23:26:51Z

Anticipation is a funny thing. It can easily set you up for failure. You can get so excited about something that it can’t possibly live up to expectations. Or, if you’re lucky you can start out with a big smile on your face, and it’s all uphill from there.

I am totally pumped up for dinner at Komi. Washingtonian has just named it the number one restaurant in the area for the fourth year in a row. I have very recently dined at Chef Johnny Monis’ new venture Little Serow, and I definitely have a chef-crush. The $135 per person multi-course dinner is on the top of my list for 2012 and I am not wasting any time getting there.

The process of securing reservations at Komi for four people on a Saturday night is daunting. It takes perseverance and determination. You must call at noon, exactly one month before your chosen date. I am at the ready with my cellphone and work land line. I take turns dialing frantically from each phone. I wonder if I am competing with myself. I do it anyway. After 35 minutes of solid dialing, I get through. I am put on hold. My heart is pounding and my palms are sweaty. What if I can’t get the date? I ultimately succeed. I text my friend: “I feel like we’ve won the lottery…. Except that we’re the ones paying.”

Komi does not have a menu, so I must explain our food restrictions in advance. The woman taking the reservation is nonplussed and downright warm as I explain. Two pescetarians, no shellfish. I proudly tell her that I’m “going to be a big girl” and try everything. When I get off the phone I remember that the fourth person in our group doesn’t eat fish or cheese, in direct opposition to the pescetarians. I decide we’ll deal with it later. I’m actually afraid they’ll tell us it’s not do-able, and I’ll be heartbroken.

One month to the day and it’s finally time for our dinner. What do I wear? I don’t want to be too dressed up. I’m thinking simple but elegant. As we enter the restaurant I am trying to manage my expectations. The staff makes it difficult by being so damn nice. I am greeted with a friendly “welcome back!” I have no idea if this is a reference to my long ago visit to Komi or my recent visit to Little Serow. It doesn’t really matter. I feel welcomed.

A server comes by to reconfirm our food restrictions before the meal begins. He is making sure we’ve told him everything. I decide that honesty is the way to go here and so I disclose my aversion to nuts. I know I’ll be happier this way. Having secrets is no way to start a new relationship.

The food at Komi is a progression of flavors beginning with small bites of intricately designed fish dishes (or veggies as the case may be) to heavier/heartier dishes. I want to thoroughly enjoy the flavors and textures of each dish for as long as possible, and am actually dismayed when the next course arrives. Wait, I think. I’m not done savoring the smoked trout roe with grapefruit.

Each course delivers new flavor profiles that are equally enticing. The spanakopita is a one-bite wonder. It is lightly fried with spinach and feta cheese (which is most definitely an oversimplification of the ingredients). There is a burst of flavor that elicits surprise and delight. Dates with mascarpone and a touch of sea salt are divine.

For each course we are often served three distinct preparations of the same dish. If a course has shellfish, there is a fish substitution for the two non-shellfish eaters and a vegetable treatment for the non-fish eater. Amazingly, no one feels as if they are missing a thing and each of us is made to feel special by the staff. As the meat dishes begin to arrive, my friend who doesn’t eat fish realizes that he forgot to say he also doesn’t eat pork. Oops. I am the benefactor of the pork belly that he is served in place of my scallop dish. I am surprised that this declaration doesn’t elicit more of a reaction from the server. Nothing but an apology. Classy.

In my pre-dinner research, I have seen high praise for a half smoke dish. The ever-changing menu means that you never know what you’ll be served at Komi in advance. I’m skeptical about what sounds like ballpark food. Silly me. I should know by now to trust the brilliant chef. The spicy, chewy sausage topped with bright napa cabbage and served on a delicious bun is one of my favorite courses of the night. Bonus- it’s served with a complimentary glass of ale. As a non beer drinker I don’t appreciate the taste, but the gesture is a fine one.

The final main course is roasted goat for the meat-eaters and a salt-encrusted whole lavraki (Greek sea bass). I’ve read about the goat and am prepared to be wowed. For some reason I’m more enthralled by the accompanying plate of condiments and pita bread. I don’t find tons of distinctive flavor in the meat. Perhaps I’m just too full. But this does not lessen my appreciation for the meal one bit. The highs are too high to deflate me now.

Throughout the evening the sommelier and a trio of servers check in to make sure we are satisfied, and when appropriate join in on our conversation in a completely non-obtrusive way. My friend describes the service as “feathery.” I like the imagery.

Towards the end of the meal I ask about Chef Monis. I haven’t noticed him in the kitchen. The server replies that he is downstairs at Little Serow nurturing the new “baby.” It’s perfectly understandable and the meal hasn’t suffered a bit. Not more than ten minutes later, Johnny is at our table delivering the first of our desserts. The Washington Post review of Little Serow has just come out and we congratulate him. He seems earnestly humble and grateful for the positive review. I’ve been smiling all night but my smile definitely gets a little broader after his visit.

There are a series of desserts- my favorite being a take on a Rolo bar with chocolate and salted caramel. I am overcome with a barrage of feelings at this point. Exhilaration. Admiration. Exceeded expectations.

It’s the morning after. I ask my husband how he feels about the meal, considering after the cost of alcohol and tip it adds up to one of the most expensive dinners we’ve ever had. Was it worth it? He says yes. I speak to my friend and we agree that we are still on a high. In fact, the entire experience has taken on an even brighter lustre in retrospect.

The reality is that Komi is not going to be on my rotation for frequent dining. In fact some of the appeal would be lost if I dined here regularly. (younger sister Little Serow is actually more my speed). But it certainly sets the bar high for the future. I’m sure that at least for awhile after every restaurant meal I will continue to look back wistfully and think “Komi…you complete me.”

Komi, 1509 17th Street NW, Washington, DC
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 4.9
Washingtonian‘s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2012, #1, 4 stars (out of 4)

Washington Post Fall 2011 Dining Guide Review

Washingtonian 2011 Review

Dining at Nostos…can you hear me now?

2012-01-15T02:31:52Z

I waste no time in attacking my New Year’s resolutions list for 2012. I know that I am supposed to be eating healthier and working out more, along with everyone else. Frankly, I find these kind of resolutions boring and easily broken. There are more important resolutions to attend to, namely my dining to do list.

I begin with a return visit to Palena Cafe, where I had a somewhat disappointing visit last year. This time the food is much better, although the service is a little cold. Perhaps it is designed to match the weather outside on this particular night? See my previous review where I’ve added some comments on the current visit.

Next up is dinner at the fairly new Greek restaurant Nostos in Vienna, Virginia. This is on my New Year’s resolution list based on a review from Tom Sietsema in The Washington Post as well as its inclusion in The Washingtonian‘s “100 Very Best Restaurants” 2012. Plus, although I haven’t been in quite some time, I like Mykonos Grill in Rockville, which has the same owner.

Nostos is a pretty place, all white and sleek. My first observation is that although we are in an office building close to Tyson’s Corner Mall, the restaurant is attracting a young and fashionable crowd. My friends and I are not young, and our grown children would tell us we’re not always fashionable, but I guess we fit in well enough. But is age a distinguishing factor when it comes to noise levels in restaurants? Because we immediately find the sound deafening and therefore off-putting.

Nostos

At first the noise distracts me from focusing on the menu. I have a hard time deciding on appetizers, but not in a bad way. Greek cuisine affords us so many suitable choices for our parties’ two Kosher-keeping pescetarians. I sometimes feel like I’m missing something by skipping meat on shared dishes. This is not one of those occasions.

We settle on spanakopita, baked layered eggplant, a sampler with three cheeses, and fish roe mousse (taramosalata.) The standout by far is the mousse, with a tart lemon flavor which dominates the fishy taste. Its smooth texture is perfect spread atop warm pita. The presentation, however, makes us giggle as it’s a little anatomical.

Nostos taramosalata

The spanakopita and eggplant dishes (Melitzana Fournou) are equally satisfying, if nothing remarkable.

Melitzana Fournou

I have decided on my entree hours before our arrival, although I am open to hearing about other options. The lamb shank is a signature dish at Nostos, and I have a difficult time resisting a well-reviewed lamb. The server eliminates any doubt in my mind, telling me that if I like lamb, this is a no-brainer. At least that’s what I think he says. I really can’t hear him offer opinions on other options. Indeed, this is a beautiful, tender piece of meat. I enjoy sopping up the orzo with the tangy sauce almost as much as I relish the bites of meat. This is a generous portion of lamb, with plenty of leftovers for another meal.

lamb shank

My friend has the grilled lamb chop as her entree, which is under the meat mezedes portion of the menu. I actually like it as well, if not a touch better, than the lamb shank.

Our two pescaterians both have snapper, which is grilled with olive oil and lemon. They both agree that it is “spot on,” meaning perfectly prepared and surpassing expectations on taste.

snapper

We’re pleased with the freshness and flavor of the food. The service is competent. The decor is appealing. There’s only one element of the evening that’s dragging down the experience. The noise is deafening. It’s one of those places where you can converse with the people seated next to you, but after that all bets are off. To be fair, the owner is well aware of the situation. He greets us after our meal and engages us in a discussion of changes that will be made to help absorb the sound. Those hard surfaces look great, but looks aren’t always everything. Fortunately, Nostos has a savvy restaurant owner who understands that diners want more than good food. Hopefully, in the very near future Nostos will be a place where you can eat and talk at the same time. There’s a concept!

Nostos, 8100 Boone Blvd, Vienna, VA
My rating (on a 1-5 scale): 3.5
Washingtonian‘s 100 Very Best Restaurants 2012, 2 1/2 stars (out of 4)

Eat, Blog, Repeat: A Review of 2011 & a Look Ahead

2012-01-09T20:03:48Z

Blogging ate up a great deal of my time in 2011. I became acutely aware of this during a recent conversation at work. My colleagues were commenting on the fact that I don’t watch as much television as I used to and am therefore unable to keep up with some of the lunchtime conversation about TV and movies. I haven’t given up television entirely. In fact if I listed all the shows I still keep up with, most people would probably gasp. But trust me it has decreased significantly since I now spend hours every week writing about my dining experiences.

The time I actually spend eating out, however, is about the same as its been for years. This is apparent when I receive the January issue of Washingtonian Magazine. This is a day I always await with excited anticipation and just a touch of dread. The January issue contains Washingtonian‘s list of “100 Very Best Restaurants.” Like many other DC restaurant-goers, I use this list as the guide it is intended to be. For years I have delighted in checking out the restaurants where I’ve been and making lists of the places I want to dine in the coming year. But this year I also measured my success as a blogger (or lack thereof) in terms of how many of the restaurants on my to do list I was able to dine at during the year.

My plan for 2011 was to get to at least half of the list of top 40. I only managed to tackle fourteen. I’m disappointed in this tally. But in my defense, there were new restaurant openings, out-of-town business trips and vacations that took me away from DC dining, and some excellent meals at restaurants that didn’t make the list. These all contributed to my failure to meet my goal.

The year wasn’t a total loss. Here are some of my accomplishments in 2011.

Best Meals of 2011 (includes links to original blog posts)

Volt’s Table 21 was an exceptional meal and experience. Every course was well thought out and presented with true artistry. The care that goes into the elements of each and every dish at Volt is extraordinary.

Graffiato is a dream come true for Top Chef fans like myself. Chef Mike Isabella’s participation on Top Chef Season Six and Top Chef All-Stars meant that there was great anticipation for his restaurant. Most restaurant critics and bloggers agree that the food at Graffiato surpasses expectations and continues to soar.

Graffiato roasted baby carrots

Obelisk is a special experience all around. The food is outstanding but there is so much more. The service is warm and attentive. The atmosphere is cozy and comfortable. The price is more than reasonable given both the quality and quantity of the food.

Obelisk potato frittata with ramps

Rasika holds the title for my favorite DC restaurant, although I am long past due for a return visit. I can’t think of another restaurant where I delight in every bite of food as much as I do here. The palak chat (crispy spinach with sweet yogurt, tamarind and chutney) is one of the best dishes in town. I am not alone in expressing this sentiment.

Rasika palak chat

Little Serow is a meal I can’t stop thinking about. The flavors are extraordinary (my friend says “excruciatingly delicious”), and the $45 prix fixe is quite the value. I can’t wait to go back.

Best Dishes of 2011
There are some dishes that are beyond compare, even if the restaurant experience as a whole doesn’t quite measure up to being the best ever.

Adour – contemporary chicken breast parmesan with tomato marmalade. The chicken is as moist a piece of chicken as any I have ever had. The parmesan crust adds an interesting texture. I savored every bite.

Adour chicken

Blue Duck Tavern- scallops. I did not want to share one bite of these big, beautiful, delicate, tangy, herbaceous, delightful scallops. Fortunately, I didn’t have to.

Blue Duck Tavern scallops

Lincoln- kale salad. It is fresh and salty (in a good way) and has more complexity than I ever expected, and I don’t even eat the hazelnuts. This dish made me feel downright patriotic! (Note: a friend just told me that they changed the4 dressing on this and it isn’t nearly as good. Boo.)

Lincoln kale salad

Pearl Dive Oyster Palace- barbecue shrimp. The tangy, salty, and spicy flavors topping the plump and juicy shrimp is what puts this on my “top appetizers of the year” list.

Pearl Dive barbecue shrimp

Best Desserts of 2011
CityZen dessert tasting. Nothing can top my private dessert tasting with Top Chef Just Desserts Season 2 fan favorite Matthew Petersen. Honestly, how will I ever top this experience? The tasting is a whirlwind of textures and flavors. Tart and sweet. Crunchy and smooth. Salty and sweet. There is a common thread running through the dishes in that they each have a component that is cold and also crunchy. Nothing is overly sweet. The flavors are delicate and yet complex. If I have to pick a favorite it is the star anise rice pudding with whipped plum, rice flour sablé, and honey ice cream.

CityZen star anise rice pudding

Buzz Bakery . I cannot make a trip to Northern Virginia without stopping by Buzz Bakery. The cupcakes are divine and flavors like blueberry “pie” cupcake, peachy keen cupcake, and the berry lovely cupcake mean that I can’t choose just one. So I don’t.

Other notables
I can’t leave out some of my other favorite meals of the year, so a brief shout-out to some other top notch dining destinations, all of which have made it into the Washingtonian 100 Very Best Restaurants 2012 list.

Fiola- I had lunch here recently and it was even better than the dinner I wrote about. Congrats for making into the top 10 of the Washingtonian’s “100 Very Best Restaurants 2012.” Well-deserved!

8407 Kitchen Bar- Silver Spring is lucky to have this cool spot with well-executed food.

Ripple-I enjoyed the creative cuisine, particularly the simple but delicious composed seasonal vegetables.

Ristorante Tosca- This is as much about the quiet, refined atmosphere and impeccable service as it is about the quality Italian food.

Looking Ahead
It’s a new year. I am starting with renewed hope in my ability to do a better job of conquering my to do list in 2012.

Last year, Washingtonian ranked the Top 40 restaurants and then listed the remaining 60. This year they rank the top ten and then include categories such as “on the rise,” what’s new,” and “tried and true.”

My 2012 dining resolutions include Komi, Inn at Little Washington, and CityZen. I’m hoping Minibar is in my future as well. And I’m definitely (hopefully) going back to Rasika and Fiola this year. I started off 2012 with a return visit to Palena Cafe, so I can already check something off my list. This is a good thing!

Two of my favorites “on the rise” are Estadio and Ripple. Can I squeeze in returns to both? I also want to get back to Bibiana this year (dined there pre-blog) and try Ethiopic.

The “what’s new” category includes Graffiato, Little Serow, and Pearl Dive Oyster Palace- all worth return visits as well as Nostos and The Atlas Room. Also included in this category is Newton’s Table in Bethesda. I had a mediocre/expensive lunch there recently, but I’m not counting out a dinner here in 2012, since I frequently dine in Bethesda in conjunction with trips to the theater or symphony.

“Tried and true” includes Jaleo where I recently dined in Bethesda after a number of years (really liked it) and Obelisk (as noted above, loved it). But there are others that aren’t in my immediate future but perhaps should be including 1789 and Johnny’s Half Shell.

The final section of the Washingtonian “100 Very Best Restaurants” is titled “More Great Dining.” I’m pleased to see 8407 Kitchen Bar added to this list as well as Rockville’s La Limena. I’m going to turn to my own backyard and try Bistro Provence in Bethesda and Ruan Thai in Wheaton, as well as return to Black Market Bistro in Kensington and Nava Thai in Wheaton. Rogue 24 is also on my wish list along with Corduroy, Equinox, and Cork.

Am I limiting myself to the Washingtonian list? Certainly not! Tom Sietsema’s review this week of Mio is oh so intriguing and I must get to Toki Underground for ramen noodles. (In the meantime, I’ve sated my noodle cravings with trips to Ren’s Ramen in Wheaton. The recently opened Elisir has captured my attention as well. And a look at thelistareyouonit.com under “openings” and “coming soon” is enough to make my head spin.

I am hyperventilating just thinking about all of the potential. It is a daunting list for a suburbanite who wants to be somewhat mindful when it comes to dollars devoted to dining. But I will not be defeated before I start. My resolution for 2012? To eat, blog, and repeat. As often as possible. I think it is time to start making some reservations.