Been There Eaten That

2023: Navigating Restaurants and Cancer

2024-01-03T12:49:49Z

I’ve written year-end dining recaps in the past. They included highlights from my favorite restaurants, reflections on dining trends, and what I was excited for in the coming year.

2023 is far more complicated for me to sum up. Cancer put a wicked spin on my life. It wreaked havoc on my sanity and affected my family and close friends in ways in which I’m probably not fully aware. My leukemia diagnosis in mid-February required a month-long hospitalization, a bone marrow transplant in August, and regular (at times daily) visits to the outpatient clinic at the Sidney Kimmel Comprehensive Cancer Center at Johns Hopkins Hospital.

As anyone who is reading this knows, a piece of my identity is tied to food and specifically restaurant dining. It took no time at all to trigger concerns about how this life-threatening disease and initial hospital stay would affect my eating. I knew there was no way I could exist on a diet of hospital food, despite a waning appetite and unrelated issues with spicy food that began plaguing me prior to my diagnosis.

My first dinner in the hospital consisted of cold chicken nuggets and soggy French fries. Thankfully this was the only hospital meal, except for breakfasts, I had to endure. A slew of visitors came to my rescue bearing home-cooked meals and dishes from my favorite restaurants.

I was told not to worry about what I ate. There was a concern about weight loss, and it was more important to eat whatever appealed to me rather than focus too much on healthy eating. On the one hand, I interpreted this as an ominous sign. Were they telling me this because I wouldn’t be around long enough to worry about the long-term effects? I tried to shove these thoughts aside and instead followed the doctor’s orders.

I devoured smoked salmon on a flaky croissant from Sunday Morning Bakehouse at Pike and Rose. A crabcake sandwich from O’Donnell’s Market in Potomac had me squealing with delight. I enthusiastically savored wood-fired pita, hummus, and halva chocolate chip cookies from Yellow. I was basically moved to tears when a visitor arrived with L’Ardente’s 40-layer lasagna.

While many people in my situation would dedicate themselves to researching their disease, I chose to let my medical team inform me about anything related to my treatment. It was one day at a time. Online exploration when it comes to medicine (and many things really) is bound to lead to disinformation. As an alternative, my research involved pouring over menus from Baltimore restaurants offering delivery via UberEats. This was an effective coping mechanism and a satisfying distraction.

Kippo Ramen became a go-to for gyoza, avocado salad and classic shoyu ramen with chicken. I eagerly awaited deliveries from Peter Chang’s NiHao, an awesome source for vegetable and tofu soup, lo mein, stir fried beef, and triple mushroom tofu pot.

DiPasquales Italian Market was a favorite, even though they don’t offer delivery. Guy Fieri introduced us to the original location when it was featured on “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.” His characteristic over-the-top enthusiasm was a reflection of their arancini and lasagna, crafted with care in-house. We made a pilgrimage there in 2010 and agreed with his assessment. The original location is gone, replaced by gleaming new shops in Harborview and Brewers Hill. The menu is extensive. I revisited the arancini and lasagna, which were still a delight. New discoveries included sweet potato gnocchi, Greco Roman salad, and Italian wedding soup. My husband became enamored with tuna diavolo–a tuna sub accessorized by baby greens, pepper cheese, hot peppers, balsamic vinegar and red onion on a magnificent crusty bread. As my tolerance for spicy food has recently returned, I can now also heartily endorse this sub.

We spent August in a lovely, rented apartment bordering Fells Point and Harbor East as I recovered from the bone marrow transplant. Prior to the procedure, I was told to plan on consuming a bland diet. We filled our freezer and fridge with a variety of homemade soups prepared by friends and family.

An Indian restaurant, Harbor Tandoor, was situated on the ground floor of the building. The pungent aroma of Indian spices permeated the entranceway and even the halls of our third floor apartment. I ordinarily adore Indian food, but I was concerned about the smell under the circumstances. It did bother me, but in order to prove something to myself we ordered from here immediately post-transplant. I ate a few spoonfuls of spiced potatoes with cauliflower, paneer tikka masala (grilled cubes of cheese in a tomato-based curry), rice and naan. The meal made me feel triumphant, which was much needed at that point in time. I hope to return here to fully enjoy the well-seasoned dishes.

Visits to Hopkins were daily for most of the month, but I was progressing well, and was often released just in time for lunch. My husband indulged my every food whim. I sat in the car while he grabbed me a Taiwanese fried chicken bowl from Ekiben one day and a Greek salad and dolmades from Samo’s another. When I desired something with crabmeat–it was Baltimore after all–he waited in line at The Dancing Potato in Lexington Market to pick up a baked potato stuffed with lump crabmeat, crab sauce and mozzarella cheese. Unfortunately, this turned out to be too rich for me to enjoy. Fresh made Berger cookies from Market Bakery were better tolerated. Berger cookies always perk me up.

During most of the year we commuted from home to Baltimore. A frequent stop became Fryer’s Roadside on New Hampshire Avenue in Silver Spring. Their fried chicken, potato wedges, and soft serve with chocolate sauce felt like a warm blanket, one which I treasured even in the summer. If I had a craving for soft serve and potatoes on Mondays and Tuesdays when Fryer’s was closed, a visit to the McDonald’s drive-through would suffice. It has been at least 20 years since I’ve been to McDonald’s, but damn those salty fries are good.

I had to figure out the best way to navigate DC dining. Carryout worked best. During the month of June, two weeks in July, and again in November, I lugged around a cloth bag containing my chemotherapy which attached to my port through a very long narrow tube. This was with me 24/7. Once I became used to my constant companion, the doors to outdoor dining opened. We returned to indoor dining during the latter months of 2023, but we eat early and seek out tables situated in less trafficked areas, as I’m still immunocompromised. We primarily patronized our favorite restaurants, which share a common thread of embracing a specific cuisine or point of view, illustrated with artistry and a modern spin.

Anju

Although many restaurants have abandoned carryout post-pandemic, Anju prevails. I am grateful for the option, particularly since I spent so much time last year binging K-dramas, which left me with a serious craving for Korean food. This modern Korean restaurant always brings me joy. Highlights: vegetarian mandu with Impossible meat, branzino with sweet and spicy yangnyeom sauce, bibimbap bulgogi and dosirak salad.

Anju bibimbap bulgogi

Daru

Yes, we did spend nearly two hours driving back and forth to pick up food from Daru, which I consider one of the best Indian restaurants in the area. The commute was absolutely worth it. Innovative dishes are a fusion of traditional Indian ingredients with delightfully surprising twists. Highlights: daal burrata, lamb chops with yogurt, wok-fried cabbage, striped bass paturi, smoked eggplant and za’atar olive naan.

Daru carryout

Lutèce

When my birthday came around in June, I removed notifications from Facebook. I wasn’t in the mood for messages. I was, however, very much in the mood to dine out with my husband. Ask me about my favorite DC restaurants and I will absolutely include Lutèce. The petite, and often packed, French bistro is in Georgetown. They have a small outdoor patio bordering Wisconsin Avenue, which was perfect for the occasion. Chef/partner Matt Conroy composes beautiful seasonal dishes, many of which are vegetable-focused. Highlights: fennel with hazelnuts and blue cheese, snap peas with stracciatella, charred napa cabbage, red snapper with artichokes and olives, bread and cultured butter. Dessert knocked my socks off: honey semifreddo with comte cheese by pastry chef Isabel Coss (recognized by Food & Wine as a 2023 Best New Chef).

Lutece snap peas with stracciatella

Lutece honey semifreddo

Oyster Oyster

Oyster Oyster stole my heart when it opened in Shaw in 2020. The restaurant initially featured at-home dinners, due to the pandemic. Chef/owner Rob Rubba’s passion for sustainability, seasonality, and creativity makes his totally meatless tasting menu remarkable and destination-worthy. Oyster Oyster earned a Michelin star in 2022 and Rubba was named best chef in the country at the 2023 James Beard Awards. This makes it challenging to secure a reservation in the 28-seat dining room. Persistence pays off. Our recent dinner was from the Cellar Larder Menu showcasing preserved items from spring, summer and fall. Service here is always stellar, which is one of the many reasons why I love this restaurant so much. Highlights: the entire menu, but I especially loved grilled lion’s mane brassicas, kohlrabi stuffed with winter squash, and maple hmong rice with persimmon curd and harvest granola.

Oyster Oyster kohlrabi

Oyster Oyster lion’s mane brassicas

Perry’s

Executive Chef Masako Morishita’s family owns a more than 100 year-old restaurant in Kobe, Japan where she grew up. It’s astounding to learn that she’s only been cooking full time for two years. Her take on Japanese comfort food is garnering loads of accolades, including Eater DC recently naming her chef of the year. I became a fan after a dinner on Perry’s rooftop in May. My admiration was further cemented after returning in November and then experiencing her Japanese breakfast in December. I enjoy some dishes because they evoke fond memories of our trip to Japan in fall 2022. Others are unique to the chef, who is playing with her food in clever ways. Highlights: garlic edamame dumplings, chilled tofu with pistachio pesto, shrimp katsu burger, and okonomiyaki pancake.

Perry’s garlic edamame dumplings

Perry’s Japanese breakfast

Centrolina

I was declared cancer-free in early November and recently completed my treatment. As anyone who has been through cancer knows, this isn’t over. I’ll still undergo monthly blood tests and visits to Hopkins for the foreseeable future. This doesn’t mean we aren’t celebrating. We took our daughter and son-in-law for dinner at Centrolina, chef/owner Amy Brandwein’s consistenly exciting Italian restaurant in DC’s City Center. We savored every bite and toasted to a brighter and more peaceful 2024. Highlights: verde salad, pasta fiori, branzino, and tower of eggplant chips.

Centrolina pasta fiore

Centroline verde salad

*Worth a mention are these Montgomery County restaurants: Melina for Greek food and Caruso’s Grocery* at Pike and Rose. I also found myself at the new Charley Prime Foods at Rio lakefront a few times for steak frites. The Happy Hour specials are a real deal.

Kippo Ramen, 606 S. Broadway, Baltimore, MD

NiHao, 2322 Boston St., Baltimore, MD

DiPasquales Italian Market, Brewer’s Hill and Harborview, Baltimore, MD

Harbor Tandoor, 803 S. Caroline St., Baltimore, MD

Ekiben, Fells Point, Hampden and South Baltimore, MD

Samos, 600 Oldham Street, Baltimore, MD

The Dancing Potato and Market Bakery, Lexington Market, Baltimore, MD

Fryer’s Roadside, 12830 New Hampshire Ave, Silver Spring, MD

Anju, 1805 18th St. NW, Washington D.C.

Daru, 1451 Maryland Ave NE, Washington, DC

Lutèce, 1522 Wisconsin Ave, NW, Washington, DC

Oyster Oyster, 1440 8th St NW, Washington, DC

Perry’s, 1811 Columbia Rd NW, Washington, DC

Centrolina, 974 Palmer Alley NW, Washington, DC

* My last blog post – written in December 2022- was about Caruso’s Grocery. Read it here.

The post 2023: Navigating Restaurants and Cancer appeared first on Been There Eaten That.

Caruso’s Grocery: Making Memories

2022-12-27T14:23:48Z

For a long time, I didn’t quite comprehend the widespread affinity for red sauce Italian American food. I wasn’t the mom who made lasagna or spaghetti and meatballs, perhaps because the best versions require the mixing of milk and meat, which isn’t allowable in our kosher home. Eggplant parmesan was an option, but my kids weren’t fans. When we dined out as a family, we were much more likely to eat at an Asian restaurant, rather than go out for pizza or Italian food.

While it sounds ridiculous for someone to find eating wildly popular dishes like fettuccini alfredo and chicken parmigiana as going outside one’s comfort zone, it’s pretty much how I feel as my first visit to Caruso’s Grocery approaches.

Carusos’s Grocery is what’s referred to as a red sauce Italian American joint. It opened on Capitol Hill in May 2021 and at Pike and Rose in December 2022. It is the brainchild of chef/partner Matt Adler and restaurateur Michael Babin of Neighborhood Restaurant Group, based on their respective family ties to Italian American restaurants. Upon opening, Adler tells the public not to expect a modern interpretation of classic dishes. Instead, the focus is on execution and high-quality ingredients.

I first met Adler when he was executive chef at Osteria Morini near Yards Park. I was a frequent diner there, returning often for his hand-rolled pasta and creative takes on burrata, and my admiration for his skills run deep. So, despite lacking a personal connection to the Carusos’s Grocery concept, I’m enthused about dining there, as early reviews and word-of-mouth reports are glowing.

Adler says that Caruso’s Grocery success was almost immediate. “In part it was our timing, opening in the middle of the pandemic. And also, the type of food we were serving – comfort food, nostalgic, and super recognizable. We knew pretty quickly that we had something here.”

So, while many diners are initially enticed by the opportunity to recreate food memories, my experience is from a different vantage point. I can appreciate the red leather banquettes, the black and white photos on the wall, and the heaping plates of pasta being set on neighboring tables. But I ‘m not here for nostalgia.

It’s the consistently satisfying food that wins me over. The food isn’t fussy or artsy, yet there is charisma on the plate. Fried calamari are audibly crisp. Garlic bread announces its arrival with a delightfully pungent scent and a four-cheese dipping sauce on the side. Veal piccata is bright and tart and melts in your mouth.

Caruso’s Grocery fried calamari Photo by Holly Barzyk

I’m taken in by perfectly cooked shrimp scampi, tomato braised meatballs, and house made bucatini with spicy red sauce. Roasted garlic Caesar salad is an excellent accompaniment to the hearty appetizers and entrees. While it feels like you can’t possibly eat another bite, it doesn’t seem right if you don’t conclude with classics like tiramisu and cannoli. Save room.

Caruso’s Grocery cannoli Photo by Holly Barzyk

We return to Caruso’s Grocery a couple of times, including Super Bowl Sunday. This visit features an order of lovely trout piccatta with lemon butter wine sauce and crispy capers. Neapolitan ice cream topped with hot fudge is sublime. And yes, I do recall the slabs of this tricolor dessert being served at birthday parties I attended as a kid. My intention is to write a blog post with the headline “Bowled Over,” but the timing gets away from me.

Caruso’s Grocery trout piccata

Caruso’s Grocery Neapolitan ice cream

I am thrilled when I learn Caruso’s Grocery is coming to Pike and Rose in N. Bethesda, taking over the back room of Owen’s Ordinary (now Owens Tavern & Garden), which is also owned by NRG Group. While it’s challenging to open a restaurant, perhaps now more than ever, there are numerous factors that make this endeavor less of a risk.

“Even though the bar at Owens does quite well there, the restaurant part itself never really came back from the pandemic,” says Adler. “The space is already built out. We just needed to make some small aesthetic changes. We have a kitchen that’s already built out, which is the very expensive part. So, we made the decision to move forward in May or June 2022 and were able to get the restaurant open by the beginning of December.” Adler says reservations for its first week of operation were filled within 36 hours. The customer base continues to grow and patrons of the DC location, who were already coming from Montgomery County, are happy to have a location nearby.

I make a beeline to Pike & Rose during Caruso’s opening weekend. I am delighted by creamy burrata on a bed of pesto and spicy seafood fra diavolo with clams, mussels, calamari, and shrimp over fresh tagliatelle. The dish still leaves its mark on the sweater I wore that night, and I’m not mad about it.

Caruso’s Grocery burrata

Caruso’s Grocery Fra Diavolo

There is much about the enjoyment of food that is tied to memory. Caruso’s Grocery’s success begins for the owners and many of the customers with nostalgia. My return to the restaurant is rooted in experiences based on previous visits. And making new memories is just as significant as recreating old ones.

—–

Caruso’s Grocery at Pike and Rose is open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday beginning at 5:00PM and Sundays beginning at 4:00PM and for lunch Wednesday through Sunday from noon – 2:30 pm.

Pro Tip: Owen’s Tavern and Garden at Pike & Rose shares a kitchen with Caruso’s Grocery. They have a terrific hamburger and I love the lemon pepper chicken wings. You can also order off the menu at Caruso’s Grocery.

Caruso’s Grocery

The Roost, 914 14th Street SE DC

Pike & Rose, 11820 Trade St. N. Bethesda MD

The post Caruso’s Grocery: Making Memories appeared first on Been There Eaten That.

Silver and Sons Hanukkah Menu

2022-12-12T12:26:45Z

It’s been a minute- actually four months- since I logged onto this site. It’s not like I haven’t been dining out. I’m just a little bit stuck, and I often wonder if restaurant blogs are even a thing anymore. It’s so much easier to post on Instagram. And making reels are actually kind of fun.

But I thought I would tackle my New Year’s resolution a little early and get back to posting more often. I really want to write about my October trip to Japan. It’s coming. And there are so many interesting DC area restaurants to discuss. In the meantime, last April I wrote about Silver & Sons Barbecue, the food truck from Chef Jarrad Silver. I’m a fan. He has a special menu for Hanukkah worth checking out.

Jewish Holiday Classics Paired with American Barbecue

Silver & Son’s Hanukkah menu blends American barbecue with Jewish holiday classics. There’s a selection of hors d’oeuvres and appetizers, vegetable-focused sides including three vegan options, four proteins, honey-poached apple bread pudding, and soufganiyot brioche doughnuts served with huckleberry jam on the side.

Holidays are a time for celebration with family and loved ones. These menus provide an opportunity to have a bit of fun and offer slightly more restaurant-centric dishes including slowly braised and glazed lamb shanks and dry-aged Rohan duck breast crown cooked on the bone in a smoker and finished with a light coating of orange and aleppo pepper honey. Mini-phyllo pies are filled with a mixture of either spinach, leeks and feta or figs, walnuts and feta. amb and beef kefta meatballs are packed with lots of fresh parsley, garlic, onions and spices, seared and then finished in a fresh tomato sauce.

Details and ordering information for 12/17 and 12/18 is on the Silver and Sons website.

Pre-orders are available until 12/15. Orders after 12/15 must be placed by email to silverandsonsbbq@gmail.com, and are subject to availability. Pickups will be Saturday and Sunday 12/17 and 12/18. There are two pickup options each day: the Silver & Sons kitchen at 11910 Parklawn Dr., Unit O (around the back of the building), Rockville, Md. 20852. Doublecheck the pickup locations and times on the website. You can also pickup wherever the Silver and Sons truck is located that day. See the website for details.

Silver & Sons Barbecue: Tradition

Where to Order Hanukkah Meals This Year (from Eater DC)

The post Silver and Sons Hanukkah Menu appeared first on Been There Eaten That.

St. James Modern Caribbean: A New Restaurant Spreads Its Wings

2022-08-12T12:42:00Z

I LOVE chicken wings. They can be fiery Buffalo, sweet and sticky, fried and crispy, grilled, or dry rubbed and smoked. Wings are a blank slate, unique in the way they absorb flavor to represent a specific cuisine or a creative mix of spices, sauce, and technique. While some wing enthusiasts have strong preferences for flats or drummies, I am agnostic. My favorite wings require a pile of napkins to soak up most of the juicy goodness, although stains on my clothing prove that I’ve attained the highest level of satisfaction.

A visit to St. James Modern Caribbean on 14th Street, NW fulfills my chicken wing dreams. It also reaffirms my deep affection for Caribbean cuisine, which combines African, East Indian, Chinese, Portuguese and French influences.

St. James is owned by restaurateur Jeanine Prime, who also owns Cane on H Street. The restaurant is a collaboration between Prime, Cane culinary veteran Emma Hernandez, and Chef Alfredo Romero Contreras, previously of Fiola Mare. They are not winging it. This is a restaurant carefully crafted to bring classic Caribbean dishes infused with modern twists to the table.

My husband drops me in front of St. James, while he searches for a parking space. I take in the cool vibe, as I am led to a counter seat overlooking the bustiling 14th Street. I scan the QR code and pull the menu up on my phone. Jerk chicken wings are a no brainer, and the perfect prelude to our next stop, which is Studio Theatre for “The Hot Wing King.” The Pulitzer Prize winning play, centered around a chicken wing competition in Memphis, just closed. If it returns, don’t miss it.

I lean further into the Caribbean theme with a cocktail. Pineapple Chow is a blend of Angostura White Oak Trinidadian run, pineapple, culantro, black pepper, and lime. I close my eyes and take a sip, replacing my view of the crowded DC street with images of a sandy beach. My island fantasy gets a lift from the restaurant’s interior, which includes plenty of greenery and a palm frond mural, as well as a lively Caribbean soundtrack.

St. James Pineapple Chow

I am fully in the groove by the time the food arrives. The chicken wings are sublime. Jerk spices. A marinade of green sauce composed of thyme, green onion, garlic, parsley, pimentos, and cilantro. Time spent in a smoker. And to top it off, a cool tamarind mayo sauce for dipping. The meat falls off the bone, and I work hard to capture every morsel. The telltale signs of success lie in the greasy stains on my shirt.

St James jerk chicken wings

My wing man- who does not eat meat- dives into a dish called Coo and Callaloo with fried smelts. Coo Coo is a steamed cornmeal cake made popular in Barbados, while callaloo is a stew made with pureed spinach, chilies, and coconut milk which originated in Trinidad. Fried fish is common throughout the Caribbean. These hearty representations of island cuisine inspire a refined dish that is beautiful and very delicious. I have coo and callaloo envy, but I know I’ll be back to try this and so much more.

St. James Coo and Callaloo with Fried Smelt

A trio of quintessential sides- coconut rice, greens, and plantains – delight us with unanticipated bold flavors. Salt cod crudo amasses heat from vivid dots of unique purees, which escalate in their levels of spice. Use caution on the orange one!

St. James salt cod crudo

The meal at St. James captivates us from start to finish, even though we skip dessert on this outing. We are primed for a return.

Been There, Eaten That turns twelve years old this month. I sometimes wonder why I’m still here, struggling to find time to write a blog about restaurants. I am one of the last ones standing when it comes to maintaining a personal blog to tell my stories. But then I think about restaurants like St. James, which has its own stories to tell. If this post can get some people through the door- and I hope it does- its a worthwhile effort. So get down to 14th Street, pull up a chair, and start winging it!

St. James Modern Caribbean, 2017 14th St. NW, Washington, DC

The post St. James Modern Caribbean: A New Restaurant Spreads Its Wings appeared first on Been There Eaten That.

Unconventional Diner and L’Ardente: Word

2022-07-07T02:36:29Z

Flair. Vivid. Oomph. Fiery. Spicy. Tasty. Charm. My brain is currently programmed to keep an eye out for five letter words as openers for Wordle and Quordle. These adjectives do double duty in my head, as I decide it’s time to take a break from word games and create some full sentences for my blog. So here it is…. thoughts… and a pretty decent smattering of five letter words, about two restaurants helmed by gifted chef David Deshaies.

Unconventional Diner: Classics with a Twist

Unconventional Diner has been making me smile since it opened in late 2017. This is where Deshaies, who gained recognition at Michel Richard’s Citronelle and then Central, puts his spin on diner food.

Where to go when you have a group with varying tastes and dietary restrictions? What about when you can’t decide if you are in the mood for Latin or Asian cuisine? Is it essential that you conclude your meal with desserts that are extra special? If you’ve answered yes to any or all of these questions, Unconventional Diner is for you.

You can indulge in the classics like a soothing bowl of matzah ball soup, fried chicken with a crackly exterior, and meatloaf kicked up with a sriracha glaze. I’ve been there and eaten all that.

I am more likely to eat here because I can craft an eclectic meal that crosses continents. A recent visit has me munching on crunchy pot pie poppers and Moroccan taquitos as a precursor to Peking duck confit and miso salmon. The world tour continues with brussels sprouts flattered by caramelized onions and a dusting of tikka masala spices.

Unconventional Diner pot pie poppers and Moroccan taquitos

Unconventional Diner Peking Duck Confit

Whichever path you take, know you are getting quality, consistent cooking. While I torture myself over what to order here, I am always satisfied with the results.

Desserts are created by Deshaies’ wife Ana, who is an award-winning pastry chef. Her work is divine. I try to limit my sugar intake, but that flies out the window after one bite of Basque burnt cheesecake. The straightforward appearance belies the complex, velvety confection that is not to be missed.

Unconventional Diner Basque burnt cheesecake

Lemon tart with Italian meringue and basil sauce is simply a dream (which come to think of it, is another good 5-letter word).

Unconventional Diner lemon tart

A bonus: Unconventional Diner is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. There is ample outdoor seating. A happy hour was just launched, offering discounts on a selection of drinks as well as snacks from the dinner menu. The new happy hour will be offered weekdays from 3:30–6:30 p.m. at the bar only.

L’Ardente: Italian Food with Flair

A little over a year ago David Deshaies turned his attention to L’Ardente in the new Capital Crossing development on Massachusetts Avenue in Northwest DC. The French-born chef serves as a partner and culinary director at this lively Italian restaurant. Working alongside him is Chef de Cuisine Leena Ali. The restaurant makes a splash the moment it opens. I dash to dine here, and return twice more, generating new fans with each visit.

My approach to ordering at L’Ardente mimics my Wordle strategy. While some people start their game the same way every time. I prefer to mix it up. I play around with a sampling from each section of the menu which includes cichetti (snacks), antipasti, pasta, pizza, and a handful of dishes designed for table-sharing.

I adore (another great Wordle starter) dishes that exhibit whimsy (this is a great six-letter word. Have you tried Word Hurdle?) Duck Hunt, featured in the cicchetti section of the menu, fits the bill with luxe ingredients served in a a miniature cup adorned with duck legs. Once you dig in, you recognize that the chef isn’t playing around. Green ravioli filled with shredded duck breast, foie gras and truffle swim in a pool of rich duck jus.

L’Ardente Duck Hunt

Are you even on Instagram if you haven’t seen the photogenic and oh so delicious 40-layer lasagna at L’Ardente? A common sight – diners who peer down at their plate, count to make sure there are indeed 40 distinct layers, and finally pause to capture the dish in a photo. I also take in the aroma, which makes me weak in the knees. Thin sheets of pasta alternate between layers of braised short rib sugo and truffle mornay sauce. There is oomph in every bite. This lavish dish is best shared, so resist the temptation to keep it all to yourself.

L’Ardente lasagna

Other pasta offerings may not steal the spotlight from the lasagna, but are equally swoon-worthy. Campanelle nera with lobster, fennel butter, tomato, and a touch of heat from calabrian chili isn’t necessarily Instagrammable. The wow factor is in the flavor.

Pizzas are distinguished by a thin sourdough crust and unconventional toppings. My favorite is verdure, which currently showcases wood-roasted asparagus, smoked mozzarella, creamy ricotta and hollandaise. The ingredients shift to accommodate the season. An earlier version sported brussels sprouts and a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds.

L’Ardente Verdure pizza

I could happily make a meal solely from the antipasti section of the menu, where a wood-fired grill elevates every dish. I love carrots sparked up with yogurt, lemon, pistachio and pesto. Although grilled cabbage may not initially capture your attention, order it and you may become smitten. I fell for this versatile vegetable dressed up in an exciting combo of trout roe, currants, coriander, tarragon and beurre blanc.

L’Ardente carote

Large format dishes intended for the table include whole barbecue chicken, grilled branzino, and Bistecca alla Fiorentina. I enjoy the chicken and branzino, but a return visit would have me focused on other sections of the menu.

Desserts are by pastry chef Manabu Inoue. The perfect finale to Duck Hunt and 40-layer lasagna is the equally alluring tiramisu flambé. The server pours rum over a globe of chocolate and ignites it, fueling oohs and aahs from diners as they witness the meltdown. The reveal is a base of lady fingers made of espresso chocolate cake encasing tart passion fruit granita.

L’Ardente Tiramisu Flambe

Other desserts well-worth exploring include 13-layer chocolate cake with coffee amaretto sauce and chocolate mousse with raspberries, roasted hazelnuts and blood orange. I can’t resist a refreshing dish of vanilla oat milk softserve swirled with mandarin sorbet, which helps to balance out the meal.

L’Ardente desserts

L’Ardente self-describes as “Italian glam.” A friend tells me this sends her into a frenzy as she struggles to match an outfit to that description. She lands on casual attire spiked up with a funky pair of earrings. This is spot on for a restaurant that balances elegance with some rustic touches.

Unconventional Diner intersperses diner staples with dishes that have more of a world view, while L’Ardente weaves together Italian classes with distinctive offerings that take some wildly creative turns. Both restaurants are well worth a visit. As my mind slowly reverts back to its focus on 5-letter words, I have one more for you: ENJOY.

L’Ardente, 200 Massachusetts Avenue, NW, Washington, DC

Unconventional Diner, 1207 9th Street, NW, Washington, DC

Previous Post

Unconventional Diner, An Unconventional Dinner (Feb 2018)

The post Unconventional Diner and L’Ardente: Word appeared first on Been There Eaten That.

Silver & Sons Barbecue and Lao Sze Chuan: Tradition!

2022-04-19T03:18:46Z

Pickled tongue, brisket, kasha varnishkes, borscht, cucumber salad, and Vernor’s Ginger Ale. I can still picture my Eastern European grandmother toiling away in her small Detroit kitchen as my cousins and I waited impatiently for Friday night dinner to be served. Food and memory are inextricably linked, and this vision appears to me whenever I eat dishes that are inspired by Jewish tradition.

Thanks to Chef Jarrad Silver of Silver & Sons Barbecue who recently sent me on a lovely trip down memory lane.

Silver & Sons Barbeque

In March 2020 Jarrad Silver was helming the kitchen at Birch & Barley. It was the last restaurant meal I would have for some time, and the flavors of his Mediterranean-influenced dishes stuck with me. Silver made a pandemic pivot by purchasing a smoker and launching Silver & Sons, selling barbecue from his home. He’s now taken it on the road with a food truck, where his Jewish background seeps into his food in the most delightful ways.

Silver & Sons Barbecue

Silver’s brisket, lemon schmaltz potatoes, challah, and babka bread pudding are reminiscent of my grandmother’s cooking. Silver reimagines the classics with flair and finesse.

His smoked chicken makes me swoon. Sourced from Freebird Farms, the birds are bathed in a 24-hour brine of citrus and fresh herbs and rubbed with smoked paprika, garlic powder, and white peppercorns.

Silver & Sons smoked chicken

We always include Silver’s pastrami flavored mushrooms in our order. They give my pescatarian husband something to chew on, and I find them a very satisfying accompaniment to the meat. They are especially good tucked into a home-baked challah roll, which Silver makes using his grandmother’s recipe.

Silver posts on Instagram that his short rib pastrami is one of his most popular options. The short ribs are brined for 8-10 days, coated with cracked coriander and his five peppercorn blend, and smoked.

Silver’s unique spice blends amp up the sides including chickpea napa cabbage slaw, mac and cheese, hickory smoked beets, and smoked deviled eggs. They also bolster a trio of sauces- the ketchup-based Bulldog, Spiced Cider Vinegar, and Baharat Mustard. This is my favorite- a sublime blend of dijon and whole grain mustards, brown sugar. and a mixture of paprika, peppercorns, mace, turmeric and dried lime.

Look for the truck on Wednesdays and Saturdays at Captain John’s Market in Cabin John, Maryland. On other days you can find the truck roaming around various Montgomery County locations. Check out the Silver & Sons website or Instagram @silverandsonsbbq for details.

Lao Sze Chuan

My family moved from Detroit to Annandale, Virginia when I was nine years old. Sunday night dinners at Chinese restaurants became a tradition, which I guess classified us as a stereotypical Jewish family. It is what it is! Duck Chang in Annandale- still famed for its Peking duck- became a favorite destination when it opened in the mid-70’s.

A visit to Lao Sze Chuan triggers memories from this period of my life. The restaurant opened in N. Bethesda next to Whole Foods in October 2021. It’s big and bustling with dramatic décor which includes lots of greenery and flourishes of gold.

Lao Sze Chuan was founded in 1998 in Chicago. It comes to the DMV with loads of acclaim behind its name. This includes being named the No.1 Chinese Restaurant in the U.S. by Travel and Leisure (2013), a spot on the Michelin Bib Gourmand List (2010-2016), and mentions of its food on numerous listicles.

I am not one to shy away from heat, which is why I find Szechuan cuisine so appealing. I can fuel my passion at Lao Sze Chuan with spicy sour fish filet in pickled cabbage broth. Tender chunks of fish swim in a vinegary broth tossed with pickled cabbage, Szechuan peppercorns, and loads of red chili peppers. Despite the one pepper spice rating displayed on the menu, this dish makes my water glass and I inseparable. And that’s why I love it.

Lao Sze Schuan sour fish filet

Those red hot chili peppers appear often at Lao Sze Chuan- most notably into a signature dish- chef’s special dry chili chicken. Crunchy on the outside and tender on this inside, this fuels my desire for a speedy return here.

Lao Sze Chuan dry chili chicken

Tibetan lamb chops, perched atop a layer of irresistible steaming potatoes bring the heat in a more literal fashion. The chops are served still flaming, which adds an element of drama.

Lao Sze Chuan Tibetan lamb chops

Peking duck is another specialty of the house. Look for a plate of duck skin which is dusted in sugar to proceed the duck set. Fond memories of those visits to Duck Chang come rushing back.

Lao Sze Chuan Peking duck

This hot new restaurant will also satisfy diners who aren’t looking for a tongue-lashing. There are classics including sesame chicken, chicken and broccoli, and sweet and sour pork. Or you can adventure into the unknown with sea cucumber millet stew or double fried pork intestines.

Lao Sze Chuan, 20 Paseo Drive, North Bethesda, MD

Speaking of tradition, I write this as many of us are preparing for Passover or Easter. Wishing all who celebrate a happy and healthy (!!!) holiday.

The post Silver & Sons Barbecue and Lao Sze Chuan: Tradition! appeared first on Been There Eaten That.

Cranes: An Uplifting Experience

2022-01-11T12:37:45Z

Consider the crane. It is a beautiful, long-legged, long-necked bird that carries with it symbolism that varies according to culture. In Japan, the crane or tsuru, is a national treasure. They symbolize longevity, success, and good fortune.

Chef Pepe Moncayo could not have predicted the obstacles he would face when naming the DC restaurant where he deftly fuses Spanish and Japanese techniques and ingredients. But it turns out that Cranes is an apt name for a restaurant that debuted just before the pandemic and is now soaring.

Crane’s path to success would take unflagging perseverance. Buzz was just beginning to build when the pandemic necessitated a closure and then a shift to outdoor dining, carryout, and delivery. It would take months before the restaurant could fully reopen, but soon after Cranes was the recipient of a Michelin star. Those are some dizzying highs and lows.

My initiation to the restaurant is during its first month of operation. The space is impressive with distinct areas that include a sake lounge, bar, and a two-tier dining room. As the fusion concept applies to the menu, it seeps into the décor as well. There are industrial elements that give the space a casual feel, while others swoop in to supply an air of elegance. This includes origami shapes that hang from the ceiling and form the bases of the tables and a flock of glass cranes that hang over the bar. Cranes appear on the tables as well, in the form of chopstick holders.

Photo by Sarah Gerrity

Moncayo hails from Barcelona, which informs the foundation of his food. The Asian influences are from time spent cooking at Michelin-starred restaurants in Singapore. Moncayo believes there is a similarity between Catalan Spanish cuisine and Japanese cuisine which is about simplicity. He considers his food as a “cultural and culinary marriage.”

There are two paths a meal can take at Cranes. One is an omakase tasting, which puts your meal in the chef’s hands, while the other is to order tapas or à la carte. Either way, the adventure transports you to Spain and Japan, with the dominant influence shifting from dish to dish.

The omakase experience – with an emphasis on seasonal ingredients and artistic plating- is stunning from start to finish. My meal in June includes cherry gazpacho with queso manchego, Spanish mackerel stuffed with shiso, and split pea soup with torched guanciale, micro mint, aged balsamic, and peashoots.

Cranes split pea soup

The omakase menu also features smoked duck breast embellished by a ribbon of bok choy which is topped with slivers of mandarinquats for a citrusy jolt. A stream of pepper sauce and a flourish of pureed sunchokes complete the dish.

Cranes smoked duck

Crispy-skinned king salmon is glazed with a semi-sweet sauce and served with zucchini rice.

Cranes salmon

The stellar service, inventive food, and the simple pleasure of not having to belabor over what to order, has me flying high.

Of course there are times when it’s equally enjoyable to wing it at Cranes. A deep dive into the tapas and a la carte menu options reveals dishes with an array of Latin and Asian influences, often with a whimsical twist.

One example- tostada chips as an implement to scoop up creamy eggplant confit topped with fish roe and egg floss.

Cranes eggplant confit

Another- bao buns as a clever envelope for braised short rib topped with umeboshi mayo and flying fish roe.

Cranes bao buns

Is it even tapas if you don’t have patatas bravas? The potatoes are shaped into rectangles, fried, and accented with dollops of yuzo kosho ketchup and aioli. On one visit to Cranes, my party of four tears into an order and then one more, with absolutely no regrets.

Cranes patatas bravas

Shrimp tempura is classically Japanese. Aioli, which makes an appearance on numerous dishes here, provides a Catalan accent.

Cranes shrimp tempura

One of my favorites is squid paired with chorizo, sake, rice noodles and puy lentils. At first, it seems an unlikely medley, but the result is a lively confluence of flavors and textures.

Cranes squid with chorizo

The ultimate Japanese/Spanish mashup is unagi paella with smoked eel, snap peas, fresh herbs, jalapeño aioli, and white ponzu sauce. The $33 dish is named one of “The 13 Best Under $35 Dishes D.C. Area Restaurants Served in 2021” by food editor Laura Hayes of Washington City Paper.

The tart and refreshing calamansi cheesecake with lemongrass citrus caviar, calamansi sherbet and pistachio streusel is elegant and immensely satisfying.

Cranes calamansi cheesecake

It’s notable that this Michelin-starred restaurant is not a break-the-bank experience. The six-course omakase is $98 per person. There is a happy hour menu with some great deals including the patatas bravas ($5), bao bun ($7), and shrimp tempura ($7).

Cranes are known to represent positive change and have been associated with the New Year in various cultures. As we launch into 2022, consider all the uplifting sentiments that cranes convey. And then… consider dining at Cranes.

Cranes, 724 9th Street NW, Washington, DC

The post Cranes: An Uplifting Experience appeared first on Been There Eaten That.

Ellē: Reunited

2021-12-05T20:01:08Z

I recently reunited with nine friends from my teenage years. We had not been together as a group in decades. Any trepidation about how life experiences and time would affect our interactions evaporated almost immediately. We reverted to our former inappropriately silly selves with relative ease. It was exhilarating, with feelings likely enhanced following a year and a half of pandemic-related restrictions. We left each other vowing to maintain our renewed connections, which I truly hope isn’t one of those things we’re compelled to say.

The reunion forces me to ponder the aging process and whether or not I’m well-preserved. These thoughts inspire me to write about one of my favorite DC restaurants…Ellē. It’s not a big leap, trust me.

I haven’t been acquainted with Ellē for all that long, but I fell for it immediately when it debuted in Mount Pleasant in early 2018. The admiration was widespread. Eater DC named it Restaurant of the Year in 2018 and it rose to the top of Tom Sietsema’s Washington Post Spring Dining Guide that year.

In his Fall 2021 Dining Guide, Sietsema dubs Elle’s Executive Chef Brad Deboy a ‘mad scientist’ because so many of his dishes incorporate ingredients that have been modified through chemistry. Deboy has a particular affinity for fermentation, which initially began as a way for him to address health issues. It remains a distinguishing characteristic of his cooking, and we are all the better for it.

Ellē – which is a café and bakery- has been offering daytime carryout throughout the pandemic. They reopened for indoor dining, for dinner only, over the summer. My return to the restaurant feels like a walk down memory lane as I recall where I sat, who accompanied me, and what I ate during previous visits.

As I peruse the menu, I reminisce about why I was initially smitten. Some dishes sound straightforward: sourdough bread, fried pickles, charcoal grilled tuna, and pork milanese. Others have an air of mystery: beet ‘nduja lettuce wrap, grilled shio koji turnip; butternut squash-chi toast, and grilled tempeh ribs. Everything tempts me, and narrowing down selections for a meal isn’t easy.

My recollection of Ellē in its early days is that you could put together a terrific vegetarian meal. The menu has matured in that regard, with an even greater abundance of choices.. This puts Ellē on the map as an ideal spot for vegetarians and vegans.

Sourdough bread is a classic example of how the fermentation process enhances flavor. DeBoy tinkers with his bread by tossing it on the grill and serving it with cultured butter, whey caramel, and pickles. You want at least one order on your table.

‘Nduja- typically a spread made from pork- gets a total makeover. Beets are accessorized with Calabrian chili, labneh, feta, and crispy shallots. The gem lettuce leaves are functional, plus add to the visual appeal.

Ellē Beet ‘Nduja Lettuce Wraps

One of the benefits of fermentation is that it can help with brain cognition. Say no more. Bring on the grilled fermented cabbage with country bread, labneh, vegan XO sauce, and coconut caramel. An order of charred white sweet potato curry with pickled onion is mandatory.

Ellē Sweet Potato Curry

There is a meaty side to Ellē’s menu, and it’s well worth exploring. Duck ragu with casarecce pasta, ricotta salata, and a crunchy layer of breadcrumbs is creative and comforting. Who couldn’t use a warm hug in the form of food right now?

Memories may wane, but I can still conjure up the taste of charcoal grilled tuna with sweet potato, apple, tiger’s milk, chili oil, and pepitas. Like every dish that has preceded it, this is a combination of sweet, spicy, tart, and crunchy designed to surprise and delight diners.

Ellē Grilled Tuna

Don’t forget to order dessert. Honey goat cheese cheesecake topped with pear slices caps off a delectable dinner.

Ellē Honey Goat Cheesecake

We hear so much about service issues in restaurants these days, but it isn’t evident on my recent visit. Our server is warm, knowledgeable, and enthusiastic. Dishes are delivered expediently, without feeling rushed.

I don’t realize how much I miss dining at Ellē until I step inside. It is a welcome homecoming, much like the reunion with my old friends. I’ll savor the memories, and do what I can to expedite the next get-together.

Ellē, 3221 Mt Pleasant St NW, Washington, DC

Related

Ellē, A To Do About Toast (Been There, Eaten That April 2018)

The post Ellē: Reunited appeared first on Been There Eaten That.

I Fell for Reveler’s Hour

2021-10-07T11:52:05Z

There is a Japanese proverb- Fall seven times and stand up eight. It is a timely sentiment about resilience and perseverance, even when failure seems inevitable.

I recently suffered a foot injury as the result of a fall, and so this proverb resonates. (Pro Tip: Stay off your phone and pay attention to obstacles on the sidewalk.) I’m currently sporting a heavily padded boot and gliding around with the aid of a knee scooter. It’s been weeks and I’m still dealing with the after effects of my trip-up, but thankfully recovery is happening.

Shortly after suffering my injury, I’m due to have dinner at Reveler’s Hour, the sister to one of my favorite DC restaurants, Tail Up Goat. The restaurant opened in Adam’s Morgan on December 31, 2019, with a focus on pasta and wine. The thought of cancelling is too much to bear, so I use crutches to propel myself from the car to a cozy window-adjacent booth with a view of Columbia Road. I scan the QR code and pull the menu up on my phone, and then I fall again…hard. It’s nothing serious or even injurious. It’s just my reaction to the allure of each and every dish on the menu.

The Reveler’s Hour menu is crafted by Executive Chef Jon Sybert, who co-owns the restaurant with his wife Jill Tyler along with Bill Jensen, who serves as beverage director. Dishes change frequently but typically there are seven or eight classified as “firsts,” five pastas, and at the moment… spicy, hot, honey-glazed chicken. Ordering one of each isn’t feasible for two people, but damn it’s so tempting.

Our visit coincides with the imminent decline of corn and tomatoes, so I hone in on dishes featuring these two ingredients. If it’s possible to extend summer and delay fall a bit longer, I’m all in.

When stracciatella is on a menu, it’s destined to land on my table. I love everything about this soft, creamy, glistening cheese. It’s paired with a bright array of tomatoes and a simple dusting of olive oil, crunchy salt, pepper, and basil. The current menu replaces tomatoes with an equally swoon-worthy combination of delicata squash, red onion agrodolce, and toasted walnuts.

Reveler’s Hour stracciatella

Baked ricotta is capped off with sweet corn and scallions and served with focaccia. In my head is a plan to exercise restraint and leave room for the rest of the meal. The illusion is shattered once I slather a heaping spoonful of cheese and corn on the golden-crusted focaccia.

Reveler’s Hour baked ricotta

Corn ravioli with sungold tomatoes is a perfect union of tomatoes and corn. (I wasn’t kidding when I said I was going all in on these two.) Generous flecks of bacon and Calabrian chili breadcrumbs add heat, texture and a wow factor.

Reveler’s Hour corn ravioli

I glance up from my plate long enough to notice my husband, who is reveling in -you know I had to put this in somewhere- a sumptuous dish of tagliatelle with pistachio pesto, grilled filet beans, and espelette breadcrumbs.

Reveler’s Hour tagliatelle

In keeping with the restaurant’s name, Reveler’s Hour staff help promote a jovial atmosphere. Jensen flits from the bar to tables, chatting up guests and imparting his wine knowledge. You can’t help but leave feeling buoyed by the experience.

A September 8 article by Washington City Paper food editor, Laura Hayes is concerning. The Reveler’s Hour owners applied for a grant from the Restaurant Revitalization Fund, which was declined. From the article:

RRF grants are a key factor that can propel a restaurant into an actual recovery phase. ….More than 370,000 businesses applied to the $28.6 billion federal relief fund and only 105,000 were approved. Even if the RRF is replenished, Jensen isn’t so sure there’s a solidified future for restaurants like his without “a return to normal public life” or additional relief from the federal government. “This style of restaurant—a neighborhood hub that’s high volume and still delivers food and service at a high level—will disappear, at least for independent operators,” he says. “We need more help.”

Tom Sietsema of The Washington Post just named Reveler’s Hour number two on his list of top ten favorite restaurants. It’s high praise. In fact, co-owner Jill Tyler says this could buy them another six months before they have to decide whether they must close.

I will recover from my injury. I hope Reveler’s Hour and the nearly 200,000 restaurants nationwide that are in danger of closing permanently will be able to pick themselves up as well.

***Call your representatives to replenish the Restaurant Revitalization Fund now at 202.224.3121. For more information visit https://www.saverestaurants.com/

Reveler’s Hour, 1775 Columbia Road, NW, Washington, DC

The post I Fell for Reveler’s Hour appeared first on Been There Eaten That.

Memories: Menomale and Jont

2021-08-30T00:36:21Z

Been There, Eaten That turns eleven years old this month. Emphasis is on the word “old.” I’m feeling it people.

Aging comes with inevitable memory loss. Do I walk into a room to retrieve something and forget why I’m there? Check. Do I occasionally have trouble remembering someone’s name? Check, check. Do I remember what I ordered at a restaurant last week? Probably not, but thanks all the photos I take, at least I have instant recall at my fingertips.

The enjoyment of food is intrinsically linked to memory, which has something to do with a part of the brain called the hippocampus. I take satisfaction in the knowledge that when I’m really old, food memories can still be triggered.

I will never forget the first time I tasted Fisher’s Popcorn on the boardwalk in Ocean City. There is an instant attraction. It doesn’t feel like summer unless I have an opportunity to acquire a plastic tub filled to the brim with warm caramel corn. The sticky, sweet, crunch conjures up trips to the beach spread out over decades- first with my parents, then with friends, and later with my children. Anyone who has accompanied me to a Maryland or Delaware beach can attest to my obsession with Fisher’s and my inevitable recollections.

Memory is integral to my recent experiences at two vastly different restaurants. Menomale features pizza. Jônt offers an exceptional tasting menu. They have nothing in common, yet they both elicit memories and transport me far beyond their DC settings.

Menomale

If you utter the word pizza to my husband, he launches into a monologue about Bonci Pizzarium in Rome. We were there in 2011, and he still gets a gleam in his eye as he reminisces about their famed pizza al taglio.

Pizza al taglio is baked in a cast-iron rectangular tray and typically cut into pieces and priced according to weight. At Bonci, you stand in a line out the door and wait for your turn to ogle the display cases and perseverate over your choices. I wrote about Bonci when they opened an outpost in Chicago- much to my husband’s delight- and you can read about it here.

I share my husband’s fond memories of Bonci, although long-winded tales about the experience are his domain. One Friday morning as I sit reading Tim Carman’s column in The Washington Post, I nearly fall out of my chair. I excitedly recite his words aloud to my husband.

“My memories of Bonci came rushing back the moment chef Ettore Rusciano said he and his wife, Mariya, were serving the same kind of Roman pies at their second location of Menomale.”

Menomale in Brookland is known for well-crafted Neopolitan pizza, but the Roman-style offering at the NoMA location is news to me. Tim Carman’s words often steer me to restaurants, but this time we are literally propelled.

An Italian-accented server smiles knowingly as we tell him what brings us here. Moments later we hear Bonci mentioned at the table next to us. We are members of a local fan club we didn’t know existed.

Our visit to Menomale is a wonderful memory jog, even though there are no display cases or pricing based on weight. This is about the resulting joy from what’s described on the menu as Pizza In Teglia Alla Romana or “hand-made pan Grandmother pizza.”

Why do people love this style of pizza? It’s mostly about the crust, which looks like focaccia and tastes like sourdough, due to a long fermentation process. Built to withstand an array of toppings which cover the entire surface of the pizza, there is no buckling under the pressure.

We are smitten by Menomale’s chef special, which arrives on a metal tray and is cut into slabs. The white pizza has a pesto sauce base and a very generous blanket of smoked salmon, fresh cherry tomatoes, mozzarella, and arugula. The first bite produces an audible crunch, and just as we hope, we are launched us into a time machine back to Bonci. Pizza can be ordered as a full, half, or quarter try. Order extra. This makes a fabulous breakfast.

Menomale Chef’s Special Pizza

Quattro Formaggi Romano has red sauce and a layer of DOP San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte mozzarella, goat cheese, parmigiano, gorgonzola, and fresh basil. There is less nostalgia associated with this less-festooned pie, but it enables us to focus more fully on the distinctive crust.

We supplement our pies with a bright seasonal salad with strawberries, feta, and a shake of paprika. We’re eager for a return visit to sample more of the extensive menu, which includes pastas, sandwiches, appetizers, Neapolitan pizza, and more options of the Roman-style that brings us here.

Trips to Rome are off the table for now. Fortunately, we can still bring Rome to the table.

Menomale NoMa, 33 N St NE, Washington, DC

—–

Jônt

Some meals are about recreating memories, while others are about making new ones. Chef Ryan Ratino of Bresca debuted the fine-dining Jônt smack in the middle of the pandemic. It’s an elevated experience in many ways, including one that is quite literal.

Patrons enter through Bresca and are escorted up a dimly lit staircase, through a sultry bar and lounge area, and finally to the reveal of Jônt. The contrast between dark and light is notable. The sleek, well-lit room features a gleaming white counter flanked by twelve seats offering an intimate view of a confident and focused culinary team.

Greetings from staff to guests are enthusiastic and warm. Despite face masks, there is clearly pride in the expedition they are about to lead. Jônt is the recent recipient of two Michelin stars, and loads of word-of-mouth praise, which causes my heart to race as I take a seat at the counter.

You won’t find the word jont in the dictionary, but if you look it up, it’s clear why Ratino settled on this as the name for his restaurant.

jaunt

/jônt/

noun

1. 1. a short excursion or journey for pleasure.

Time and place slip away as the 16-course tasting menu progresses. One dish has a French accent, another showcases ingredients shipped in from Japan. Seasonality is a driving force. Caviar, foie gras, and truffles make a requisite appearance given the $305 price tag for the meal. They aren’t just here for show. Every ingredient has a mission and serves to bolster its companions on the plate.

Dinner takes flight with artfully composed small bites- charred eggplant with fava bean and preserved black truffle, fermented potato pancake with smoked onion marmalade, a tartlette of summer squash topped with a heaping spoonful of caviar.

Jont Courgette Tart. Photo by Holly Barzyk

We take a voyage to the sea with stunning plates showcasing uni, bluefin tuna, and Dungeness crab. The vibrancy of smoked amberjack with stone fruit and mini-cucumbers leaves a long-lasting impression.

Jont bluefin tuna chutoro. Photo by Holly Barzyk

Jont Smoked Kogoshima Buri. Photo by Holly Barzyk

Jont Hokkaido Sea Urchin

The bridge from fish to meat is sungold cherry tomatoes with raspberries and lemon verbena. The dish sounds straightforward, but I’m taken aback by the intensity and layered flavors. And it screams summer.

Jont Tomato & Raspberry

As we progress to the meat courses, I remark to my friend that the meal is moving too quickly, thinking we’ve been here only for an hour. It’s been two. I’m reminded of multi-course tasting menus where I grow bored midway through, glancing at my watch and silently counting how many courses remain. I’m so immersed in this experience, that I lose track of time.

Jônt has risen quickly to a level that puts it on par with the nation’s top fine dining establishments. I’m not surprised. Innovative, technique-driven dishes, with ingredients that may take a turn in a wood-burning oven or pass through an antique duck press is one reason. (Lovers of Bresca’s duck a la presse take note.) There is an attention to detail that is evident in every serving piece and utensil. Introductions to dishes let the food do most of the talking, unless there’s a question from the diner. And this may not be noticed by all, but if you leave your seat, you return to find a brand new napkin. Every detail can make an impression.

Jont Kagoshima Wagyu. Photo by Holly Barzyk

Jônt provides a much needed escape from the outside world. While my short and long-term memory may be compromised, this restaurant is truly unforgettable.

Jônt, 1904 14th St NW, Washington, DC

The post Memories: Menomale and Jont appeared first on Been There Eaten That.