Improving Communication Between Horse and Rider

Our Little Cowboy

2008-06-05T12:26:00.007-04:00

Hello Everyone!

On Friday May 30, 2008 at 2:52 PM we welcomed our beautiful little boy
Cristino Alfredo Castro into the world.
He weighed 7lbs 9oz and was 21 inches long.

Fredi and I have been so excited and running on adrenaline for days and couldn't be happier.

I will be taking about another week off from blogging while we settle into our routine. Somebody likes to eat a lot!

We are enjoying every second of this baby, and look forward to the day Cristino will be riding and playing at the farm. He won't be small for long so until then we don't want to miss a moment.

Here are some pictures of our little cowboy... Did you ever see so much hair on a newborn?

What To Pack For A Trail Ride

2008-05-29T15:05:00.002-04:00

The weather is beautiful, and if you aren’t out already it’s time to relax and do some trail riding.

Trail riding is such a nice break for horse and rider from a rigorous training schedule.

I like to pack a cantle bag with a few small items before I go on a trail ride. The trail rides I take are usually one to three hours long, and this is what I pack:

Mobile Phone
Knife
Roping Rein (Just in case a rein breaks!)
Lip Balm
Water
Vet Wrap
Chicago Screws
A Mini flashlight when I do a later trail ride
And what I don’t but should pack – A whistle for the times I ride alone.

Here is a picture of my knife and my flashlight. The flashlight I just clip on the rings of my saddle. It is there if I need it. The knife has a clip I so I clip it onto the top on the inside of my boot.

What do you like to pack for a trail ride?

Deanna

Product Review - FURminator deShedding Equine Tool

2008-05-27T09:14:00.003-04:00

We got to try out a new product this weekend called the FURminator deShedding Equine Tool Fredi, Myself & Perry all flipped for it.

When I got my FURminator in the mail it was like Christmas so I ripped open the package. I couldn’t get to the barn right away so I had to test it out on the Pug. I don’t know if the rest of you are like me, but when I get something new especially for a horse I have to have it out of the package and play with it immediately. I brushed the dog and all of that dead under coat started coming out in the blade. He sat quietly and allowed me to brush him. When I use a regular brush he usually squirms around and looks at me with those big sad eyes. He is kind of fragile so it was nice that I could be gentle and the grooming tool still worked.

I had one horse left in the barn that had not yet shed out and I was saving the test for her, but by the time I had gotten to the barn her owner had come and groomed her for hours so I couldn’t do the true test I wanted to do.

I was left with Perry who still had a few spots of patchy winter hair. We grabbed the FURminator and dug in HARD. I’m so used to scrubbing hard with a rubber curry to pull out the winter hair. Perry’s head popped up in the air like, “WHOA! What are you doing?” I then realized, the tool required no effort and started to run it through her hair softly. The old hair was easily coming out along with a lot of dirt that was next to her skin. I couldn’t believe how much dirt actually came up to the surface without using any effort or any dirt flying into my face like it does with traditional grooming methods. Fredi took over the grooming and Perry was stretching her neck and her top lip started to quiver in enjoyment.

Fredi grabbed the next brush and brushed off all the dirt. Perry was now so clean, SHINY, and soft. Judging by her reaction and how she looked after her grooming session I would say Perry gave it four hooves up. I absolutely love this product, and I highly recommend it to anyone who would like to make grooming easier and have their horse’s hair coat shine.

The FURminator Company makes all kinds of products for Horses, Dogs, and Cats for healthy skin and coats. You can check it out HERE to see why I am so excited about it!

A list of retail locations can be found on www.FURminatorEquine.com

Deanna

Spring Shots

2008-05-24T16:12:00.009-04:00

This year we were a bit late in getting the horses their spring shots. Fredi has been doing double duty the past few months and couldn't take out the time any sooner to get it done. Everything went pretty smooth. As usual, I like to sit with Dr. Hachten and ask a few questions. He's been our vet since I was a little girl, and he is such a wealth of knowledge.

I told him Perry is on a regular deworming program, but she is still rubbing her tail. Doc says that those are external parasites, nothing a little head & shoulders anti-dandruff shampoo won't fix. What a great tip! I thought I would pass that along.

After Doc left, Fredi rode Orion who is an eight year old green broke horse that we somewhat recently acquired. The horse has been sitting for awhile, and it's time to get some training on him. O started out by trying to rear, and calling to the other horses. By the time Fredi was finished the horse was calm, quiet, and they were working on some nice looking spins. At first he wouldn't even lift a shoulder, by the time they were finished, he was moving and lifting his forehand quite nicely.

Orion is the horse in the picture, and Fredi wanted him to "smile" for the camera. Fredi was playing, but the play has a purpose. He likes to play with the horses mouths to get them more used to being handled around their mouths.

After O was cooled down Fredi hosed him and stood him tied for about an hour. He decided to get Perry hosed and tied for awhile too. Perry started to shake pretty bad. I thought maybe she was cold. It wasn't that warm in the barn, but it should have been warm enough. He threw a cooler on her and she still continued to shake. Her hair was warm to the touch, so we decided it must have been a reaction to the shots. I called Doc and he told me to giver her 10cc's of Banamine, and within 20 minutes she should be fine. I had the Banamine on hand and Fredi administered it to her, and just like Doc said 20 minutes later she was back to normal.

It turned out to be a really good day but I'm pretty tired from all the excitement. I'm trying to get a bit active to get my labor started. No such luck! Today I watched Fredi for hours while he was riding, teaching and training. I haven't had that much stimulation in awhile and it was fun!

Deanna

Bareback Mounting With a Spotter

2008-05-21T11:06:00.004-04:00

Here is yet another Bareback Mounting Video. I know I am doing a lot of this, but mounting the horse is the beginning of all riding right? I wanted to show how to give a spot to a rider to mount the horse. This is Cassie mounting Perry, I know she's young, talented, and in great shape but in the beginning she struggled to learn to mount bareback like anyone else.

Fredi spots Cassie under her arms, and does not lift her. Cassie does all the work. Fredi is just there for a little support. Especially if she came back down and could trip on the mounting block. If you look at the height of the horse and the height of the rider, you can see even with the mounting block it is a bit of a challenge for a young rider.

Fredi spots riders of all sizes, abilities,and ages this way. If you spot the rider in the correct way it takes minimal effort regardless of rider size. With a taller heavier rider I would suggest first trying the mount without a mounting block. Even if the rider doesn't get high enough on the horse's back, you will have a feel for the rider and how they land without a mounting block getting in the way.

The way Cassie has been working on perfecting the bareback mount (jump & cast) has been through repetition. If you think about it, we usually mount the horse once per ride. Then we spend the rest of the ride perfecting our and/or our horses through repetition. So treat mounting with or without a saddle like any other part of riding, with practice. It's not unlikely for a rider to spend 15 to 20 minutes just practicing getting on and off of the horse.

One more thing I would like to add about this video that really irritates me is that Perry moved after Cassie got onto her back. The horse knows to stay put when the rider is mounting, but she took advantage of the situation. What is not shown, is the horse was backed and then we had to do it again with her standing like a statue. It didn't work the next time either, Perry was still was misbehaving so we had to put a bridle on the horse and then she was her normal obedient self. Those horses are such cheaters aren't they?

Deanna

Related Posts:
Bareback Mount For The Rest Of Us: Jump & Cast
Bareback Blooper

Reader Question: Showmanship Crossovers

2008-05-19T14:56:00.002-04:00

Showmanship Question: When judge is inspecting 4 horses away do other exhibitors move according to where judge is even if the judge is not inspecting you?

Specifically, if I am exhibitor A and judge is inspecting exhibitor C, 2 horses down, if judge is on far side (to me) of Horse C at the quarters, does exhibitor A move to off side of his horse stay on the side?

Thank you,
Christine

Reader Question Part Three!

Hi Christine,

This is such a great question for showmanship. I took some time before answering it because it’s so difficult to explain without some pictures. At the moment, a photo isn’t an option for me, so I had been looking for one on the Internet that I could use for the explanation. Well, I didn’t find one. So I will answer the question without it and hopefully the explanation alone helps.

First I’d like to say, always show for four horses down even if you are not the one being judged.
The best way to know you are on the correct side of the judge is that you can easily see the judge.

In answer to your question, if the judge is on the right side of horse C back at his hindquarters, you as exhibitor A should be on the right side of your horse.
You should have crossed over to the right side of your horse when the judge passed the heart girth of horse C as he walked toward the hindquarters.

If the judge walks back to you from behind the three horses, do not cross back to the left until he or she crosses your horse’s tail.
Keep in mind, if you are the horse being judged, you will be crossing over at each quarter but if you are not the horse being judged, you will be crossing over far less.

You can practice showmanship with props, and be ready for any situation. Unless you have three or four other exhibitors to practice with I suggest you practice with props until you feel completely comfortable.

I am always looking for ways for exhibitors to practice things with out the horse so the way I came up with to test your question was really silly. Being nine months pregnant and unable to work with actual horses you really have to improvise!

I set up my vitamin bottles, lip-gloss, hand lotion, and some other props to be the horses, judge and exhibitors. It worked quite well to try out the crossovers. Probably some Breyer horses would have looked less silly, but it gave me the visual I needed to explain the answer to your question. Test it out and I hope you have a great 2008 show season!

Deanna

Everybody Gets To Ride But Meeeeeee :(

2008-05-15T11:43:00.007-04:00

Time is ticking, and I am on the last leg of my pregnancy. I cannot wait until I can get back to riding! Now I'm going to whine and say, "Everyone gets to ride but me! Even the dog gets to sit on the horse's back.

I guess you can tell we really do need to have a baby so we can stop treating the Pug like one. Pugsly has a pretty decent wardrobe, winter, fall, spring, and summer clothes and accessories. Yeah, sad I know.

I think Perry's face says it all in this picture. She usually loves to get her picture taken, but with Pugsly on her back she looks humiliated, she wouldn't even look at the camera. Pulgsly's eyes are saying, "help me" and Fredi is beaming like a proud Daddy. Obviously, we need this real baby.

My doctor says I should go into labor in the next week, cross your fingers for me because the sooner I go, the sooner I will be back in the saddle. Not to mention, it would be nice to see my feet again.

To everyone else I say, have fun riding for me!

Deanna

Bareback Mount For The Rest Of Us - Jump & Cast

2008-05-12T12:03:00.005-04:00

I will be getting back to part three of my reader question series this week, but first I would like to add a second Fredi Bareback Video Clip.

I refer to this style of mounting as "Beginner" but it's not beginner rider, but beginner bareback rider. It is the way I mount bareback, it is much easier than the Native American Style mount. Until you can mount that way this is our alternative!

To clarify what Fredi is doing in the Video:

Place your left hand on the reins and horse's mane. Grab some of that neck fat too, it helps and makes it easier on the horse.
Place your right hand with fingers spread apart on the lowest part of the horse's back.
Jump straight up and a little forward pushing with your fingers to lift. (Practice this jump a few times before you attempt to get on the horse's back if necessary.) Aim high, to the top you your legs so your thighs are resting on the horse, not your stomach. You will notice when most people mount bareback they aim too low and then struggle to get their leg over the horse. They jump only to their stomach.
Cast your hips and legs away from the horse then swing your right leg over the horse to sit on his back. You can see how Fredi casts really well in the video.

I would like to add, you can do this from a mounting block until you build your strength and coordination, you don't need to do it from the ground right away. I usually stand my horse at the bottom of a hill with me on the upside to make it easier for myself.

Next week, I will try and post a clip on how to spot someone to mount this way. It's a great way to learn when you have a spotter!

Deanna

Related Posts:
Bareback Blooper

Bareback Blooper

2008-05-10T16:07:00.004-04:00

I wanted to get to the barn to do a couple of video clips of Fredi riding bareback before the baby comes and I don't have time or free hands to shoot a video.

Unfortunately, the horse was having a bad day today so Fredi had to keep doing this bareback mount over and over. This was about take 15 or 20 in a row, and he was starting to get tired. I thought it was cute so I would keep it and post it anyway. Sorry about my hideous laughter, but he almost wiped out as he pulled the horse forward and it cracked me up, so you may want to turn off the volume!

In this clip Fredi is demonstrating how to mount a horse Native American Style.
The key is to grab the mane and swing using momentum to get onto the horse. The only piece of equipment Fredi is really using is a roper rein and a halter. He is working toward bareback and bridleless and has already eliminated the bit and bridle. He didn't opt for a hackamore, because he is trying to go as natural as possible.

Have a laugh at our expense ;)

Deanna

Upward Transitions - Leg Aids

2008-05-08T13:17:00.003-04:00

This is part two to the reader question...

For upward transitions does the rider use both legs together or left leg, right leg with motion of horse? Are the leg aids different for each gait or the same?

For an upward transition to the walk, jog, and trot, I will use both legs together. Two legs together will tell the horse to move forward and remain collected. The two legs together will encourage the horse to drop his head and round his back. Using one leg at a time will probably result in the horse being flat instead of round. Some horses are more prone to collection than others, that is why I say "probably".

With a lope or a canter, I will use my outside leg mainly.
I will move my outside leg slightly back when I ask for the lope or the canter. I will also use my inside leg as a brace to keep the horse from moving to the inside. I will just keep my inside leg next to the horse so that he knows I am not just asking him to move his hip to the inside when he strikes off at the lope or canter, but to move forward. You probably have seen horses that give trouble when being asked for a lope, they move off of the rail when the rider cues the lope. This is when the rider is allowing the horse to move sideways instead of forward. The rider's inside (brace) leg is a big help to keep the horse on the right track, forward.

The goal is that the horse drives his hock deep beneath him and does not throw his hock out behind him losing collection.

Deanna

Downward Tranisitions - Rein Aids

2008-05-06T13:34:00.004-04:00

Recently I had a reader question from Christine on "Downward Transitions for Rein Aids". I really like answering reader questions. Many times I just do things, I know what I am doing but they are actions not put to words.

Hi Deanna,

Question. When performing a downward transition what are the specific rein aids?
1. Both reins together: squeezing reins simultaneously with slight resistance or
2. Gentle pull - pull back with both reins or
3. Pull back left rein then right rein or squeeze right rein then squeeze left rein. Please clarify.

Seat and legs are used; it's the rein aids I need assistance on.

Hi Christine,

Thanks for the great questions. I will break them down over the next few posts to give each one the attention they deserve.

With the reader questions I can really think about what I do step-by-step and put it into writing so keep those questions coming!

Transition- to go up or down in gate. From a halt to a walk, a walk to a jog, a canter to a halt, etc.

When performing a downward transition, I would prefer to only use a voice command, and a slight squeeze of both hands together on the reins. However, I say prefer, because first you have to train the horse to be able to transition that way.

So my answer to your three questions is yes. All three are correct and necessary; it just depends on the horse and where he is in his training.

Here is why:

When a horse is first learning to do a transition, I pull back on both reins together with slight resistance. I will also speak very quietly the gait I would like to transition down to as I do this. The reason I do it this way, is I want the horse to begin to transition downward and obtain some collection. I am not going for full collection during this transition because at this point in the horse’s training it’s just too much to ask. But I am thinking forward to complete collection.
If the horse is being very resistant (knowingly or unknowingly) to the little bit of collection I am asking him for I will pull him back with a bit more “holding”. Meaning I won’t release as quickly. I always offer a release as soon as the horse gives me what I am looking for, even if he only gives an inch, he has earned a release. Sometimes a horse can be released too quickly and didn’t get a chance to feel the collection he was being asked for. Sometimes gently holding the horse with your hands for a bit longer will help him understand and clarify what you are asking of him.
See-Sawing the reins
Pulling right then left or squeezing right then left to help achieve complete collection when performing a downward transition. After my horse has learned to shift his weight rear-ward, and drop his head and give to the bit somewhat when I pull back on the reins I will then see-saw to put the finishing touches on the transition. It will all depend on the horse. I will pull right and left for a horse that is needs a bit more help, and squeeze right and left on the reins for a horse that has more understanding of what I am asking him to do.

Would you believe what comes next?

I go back to the original way I was training the horse to just slightly squeezing both reins together to collect the horse in a downward transition. The difference this time is my horse now gives me a different response. He will now collect very easily and correctly because he can understand what I want from that very subtle cue.

After that, just tune up the horse as necessary using the three different rein aids.

I would like to note to all the readers that I would always use my legs any time I use my hands on a horse. Any time I try and collect a horse I will give a gentle squeeze of both of my legs to help the horse round his back and drop his head. If I need to use more rein pressure, I will absolutely use more leg pressure too. Unless I am initiating a back up, I will always try and use my legs more than my hands with a horse because my goal is to have the lightest minimal cues possible.

I hope this helped clarify the use of rein aids for you in a downward transition!

Deanna

Related Posts
See-Saw That Head Down
Keeping The Horse Underneath You
Keeping The Horse Underneath You - Part Two

Blocker Tie Ring

2008-05-02T13:38:00.003-04:00

It's not often that I find a "new" piece of horse equipment that I find so extraordinary but I was recently alerted to The Blocker Tie Ring. It's fantastic for training a horse that pulls back when tied.

Usually when I sack out a horse, I only ground tie him but with the Blocker Tie Ring you can safely tie the horse while you sack him out and teach him to stand comfortably tied at the same time. You don't have to worry about any more broken ties, halters, lead ropes, or worst of all a broken neck.

You can use the tie rings with a single tie, cross ties, or trailer ties. I think I need at least ten of them.

Check it out HERE.

Deanna

Stacy Westfall On The Ellen DeGeneres Show

2008-04-30T16:26:00.004-04:00

Here is a wonderful clip of Stacy Westfall and her horse Roxy on the Ellen DeGeneres Show from back in March.

I have to admit, I have been a bit obsessed with riding bareback lately. I guess it comes from Fredi, whom has been doing all the riding and training since I have been unable ride. I live vicariously through him. I call him my "show pony". I am always showing him off, because I can't do anything myself these days. "Fredi, show my Dad how you stand up and walk on the horse's back..." They shake their heads and laugh with me. Or is it at me?

I love this video, it will bring a smile to your face and a tear to your eye. Well, it did mine and I'd like to think it's not just the pregnancy hormones ;)

Enjoy!

Deanna

Western Pleasure Critique – The Walk

2008-04-28T13:55:00.005-04:00

This is Tori and her cute gelding Iza Hot Shot. This picture was taken at the NY State Fair in 2007, where she was showing him in Western Pleasure. You may remember this pair from the Showmanship Pivot Critique.

In a Western Pleasure Class, the horse is judged as opposed to the rider. Tori’s gelding is perfectly turned out, and I do like her choice in color for her clothing, it complements her horse well.

Even though this is not an equitation class where the rider is being judged, good equitation is always necessary to help the horse stay happy. A good Western Pleasure horse is a happy horse.

Notice the horse’s expression, he is slightly irritated. It appears Tori is asking him to move closer to the rail, and he would have preferred to stay where he was. What would help him to be more willing would be if Tori would turn out her stirrups. I’m sure she holds the proper position with her legs normally, but her show saddle appears to be a bit stiff, and it does not allow for her calves to be in contact with the horse’s sides as well as I would like.

The solution:
When the saddle is not in use, take a broomstick, turn out the stirrups, and break the fenders in to make your job easier when you are riding. If it is not a light oil saddle, you can wet the fenders before you turn them, but I would not suggest wetting the light oil because it would darken the leather. Instead you can oil the fenders with Bic4, or some other oil intended for light saddles to help condition the saddle.

Hands / Neck Reining:
As you can see, Tori is using a neck rein to move her horse closer to the rail. Of course she must use a neck rein, but I would suggest slightly bending that left elbow and lifting the horse’s shoulders to move him over. This way, when his shoulders lift, he will collect and slow his walk even further. When bending the elbow and lifting the rein hand slightly, the rider will not have to cross over the mane as much to get her horse to move away from the neck rein. The cue will be smaller and more attractive to horse and spectators.

Note to riders:
Always use a leg cue before or during the time when you are using a rein cue. This will teach the horse to eventually move off of the leg only, resulting in a virtually invisible cue.

Another controversial point I would like to make…

At any gait, before touching your horse, check out where the judge is. I call it cheating, but unless you are in a big show with multiple judges, I recommend trying to fix the horse when the judge isn’t looking. The reason for this is not to “get away with something”, but rather to teach the horse that just because you are in the show ring does not mean that he can do whatever he wants. You also don’t want to appear rude and ignore the judge, so fixing the horse when the judge is busy looking at another rider is your opportunity to be able to show your horse to the best of his ability when the judge’s eyes are on you.

Here's to a great 2008 Show Season all, and a special thanks to Tori and Iza Hot Shot!

Deanna

Riding Instructor - SCAM

2008-04-23T14:08:00.004-04:00

I would just like to pass this around. I assure you it is 100% true. This is not one of those stupid forwards, I Deanna Castro am writing this warning myself.

There is a scam going on to con riding instructors out of money. I am sure this can be used in other areas of the horse industry as well, so please read carefully.

The riding school or instructor is contacted by a foreign "wealthy business man" who's son or daughter is staying in the country, while the parents are out of the country. The father would like the son to become a horse trainer, and wants to train three (or whatever number he chooses) days per week. The father sets up lessons for six months, a year, whatever of lessons and wants to "pay in advance".

A check is then sent to the instructor for thousands of dollars more than the agreed upon amount. Guess what happens next? The father asks for the refund of the over paid money. The check is a cashier check so it's as good as cash right? Wrong. It's a fake, and it takes two to three weeks for the check to clear, so the bank does not realize the mistake right away. The cash is given to the instructor when the check is cashed. The bank later notifies the instructor that the check was fake, and the money is owed back to the bank.

In the mean time, the instructor would have paid thousands of dollars to the con artist, and be investigated for fraud, him or herself. What a nightmare!

The moral of the story, if someone contacts you for a product or services and sends a check there are some red flags to look out for:
Check is sent regular post
Check has no account number, address, or telephone number
Routing number does not exist or belongs to a different bank
Routing number has too many or too little digits
Check is in an amount excess to an agreed upon price
Check does not have a perforation on at least one side
I would also suggest, calling the institution that issued the check, comparing the check number etc. You can even fax a copy of the check to the bank to be sure it is legitimate. Get the phone number for the institution from the internet, not the check itself because the scam artist could be the one that set up a fake number and answers the phone!

Pass this on to all your contacts in the horse industry.

Deanna

Jigging & Rearing - Part Three, Riding The Horse Forward

2008-04-21T12:34:00.004-04:00

In conclusion to our Three Part Series - Jigging & Rearing that was inspired by a reader question, I would like to add the last installment, Jigging & Rearing - Part Three Riding The Horse Forward.

Once you have completed the Physical Evaluation and done your Ground Training, you will be ready to get back on the horse and ride.

Riding The Horse Forward:

If you have not seen progress with the groundwork, don’t take the matter into your own hands, enlist the help of a professional trainer.

Assuming your horse’s behavior is now modified, you now have the horse willing to work and not threatening to rear, you will be ready to stay on her back and work through the problem.

Refusing to move forward.

By longeing, the horse should be in better shape and more willing to trot and canter while you are riding.

I would first begin this training in the arena before taking her back out on the trail again.
When I am training any horse, I like to walk a lap or two in the arena, and then trot the horse out for a good ten to fifteen minutes. See Working The Trot for more information.

Work this first in the arena, then out on the trail.
I would mix this in with longeing out on the trail. You will need to get back on and stay on the horse, because she may prefer you to dismount and then be longed. So by first brushing up on riding and moving your horse forward you will have developed a conditioned response in the arena that can carry over to the trail.

Trotting will keep the horse focused and once you have established a routine in the arena, she will have the security of a familiar routine in an unfamiliar place out on the trail.

Once the horse is trotting and behaving the canter will be simple. She will enjoy the canter as a break from trotting. Of course she should keep herself collected and paying attention, but it will be much easier for her to canter than perform a true working trot.

If you at feel the horse has become too much for you to handle, please resort to professional training. Professional Training would be good to do before the situation escalates, and a trainer refuses to take the horse because she is seen as a risk. I have not personally seen this horse, so I don't know the severity of the problem. This may be a quick fix, or it may be a virtually impossible problem. You can judge what you are capable of from the progress with your mare's groundwork. There are lots of good horses out there to ride, I am sure you will do your best to keep this one, but if it does not work out there are plenty more horses for you to love and enjoy.

Stay safe!

Deanna

Related Posts:
Jigging & Rearing - Part One, Physical Evaluation
Jigging & Rearing - Part Two, Ground Training
The Power Of The One Rein Stop

Jigging & Rearing - Part Two, Ground Training

2008-04-19T08:34:00.003-04:00

Continuing on from the last post Jigging & Rearing - Part One, Physical Evaluation I would like to continue on answering the reader question.

When I ride her she is calm and nice. BUT if I go faster than a walk to begin with she will go all funny and do (what I would explain it as) a humpy canter sideways and I cant make her stop! She will do it all the way out and home again...

I’ve been very calm to her and tried calming her down but if she stops all she does is rear up. If I click her to move forward, I end up giving up getting off and walking her home.

I really love my horse and riding, but for some reason she has changed and I just don't no what to do about it :(

After the Physical Evaluation has been completed and we have assessed that there are no problems in this area we realize it is a gap in the horse's training. The next step I would take is to do some ground training to try and fix the problem.

Ground Training

Take the time to put some really good training on the ground.
Get the horse somewhat tired before you venture out on the trail to get her ready to work. Get all the kinks out before you take to the trail. That will make your life much easier.

Your horse has a conditioned response that if she exhibits a bad behavior she won’t have to work.
"Hopping or rearing means I can walk without having to carry my rider. " If you must get off (use your judgment and stay safe!), be sure and bring along your longe line on the trail ride, and as soon as must you get off of her, longe her hard at a trot. Do not let her rest get right to it so that she associates your dismount with really hard work. If you need a whip, they do make the kind that disassemble into pieces that you can take apart and bring along on the trail.

Do not allow the mare to canter, make her trot.
Many times when a horse is in a good working trot, they will try and canter because it is easier than a true working trot. Keep her right on the verge of breaking into the canter, but don't allow it make her trot.

After she has calmed down, allow her to walk, then stop her, mount your horse and try it again. Each time she gives you trouble, get off and work her again. Be sure and find a nice flat open space where you can work without obstructions. While riding your horse and you are able to jog or trot, reward her good behavior with allowing her to walk. One of the reasons I ask for you to get off of the horse is that I feel in this situation it would be safer for you than for you to ride out the bad behavior.

You must first change the consequences for the mare's actions before she will change her behavior.

This is not going to change overnight. Be sure and allow yourself plenty of time to work with her. I would expect her to be pretty sweaty and foamy by the time you bring her home.

It sounds as if you are really good at remaining calm. Continue with that attitude as you are working on this training exercise. Expect her to get a bit excited in the beginning. Keep your composure, keep your determination and reward even her small accomplishments and you will be well on your way to developing a well broke trail horse.

Tune in next time for the continuation of the Jigging & Rearing Series - Part Three Riding The Horse Forward.

Deanna

Related Posts:
Introduction To Longe Line Training
Longe Line Trouble Shooting

Jigging & Rearing - Part One, Physical Evaluation

2008-04-17T12:18:00.006-04:00

I had a reader question about a horse jigging and rearing wile out on the trail. The weather is beautiful and this question could not have had better timing.

My answer to the question is not going to be short, so I will be breaking it down into three parts over the next few posts. I think this is a problem that many riders face at different levels in the arena and especially out on the trail. I am going to give this question the attention that it deserves by dividing it into three parts Physical Evaluation, Ground Training, and Riding the Horse Forward.

Hi, my name is Sarah and I have a problem with my horse.

When I ride her she is calm and nice. BUT if I go faster than a walk to begin with she will go all funny and do (what I would explain it as) a humpy canter sideways and I cant make her stop! She will do it all the way out and home again...

I’ve been very calm to her and tried calming her down but if she stops all she does is rear up. If I click her to move forward, I end up giving up getting off and walking her home.

I really love my horse and riding, but for some reason she has changed and I just don't no what to do about it :(

If you could help me out in anyway I'm ever so grateful!! Just give me like an exercise to try with her maybe.

Sarah

Hi Sarah,

Thanks for the question! It doesn’t sound like your horse is being very much fun these days for sure. Her behavior has become downright dangerous, and you are right to seek some help. Please be sure to always wear your helmet, and you may want to invest in a protective vest to protect your most valuable possession, you!

Your horse’s behavior is obviously the symptom of a problem. Whether her problem is a physical problem or a training problem we will have to do some investigating to find the culprit.

Physical Evaluation

First, I would try and rule out that she is experiencing pain.
I am not sure if you are longeing her before you ride, I would definitely longe her until she gets somewhat tired. While you are longeing her, see if she appears to have any lameness. Watch for her to bob her head in the air if a front leg is lame, or to bob down if a hind leg is lame. Watch the horse’s stride to see if it looks off, or if she drags a back toe. If everything appears normal, you can probably rule out lameness. If lameness is an issue, it's time to give the vet a call.

Another thing I would check for is a sore back.
With your horse tied, grab a mounting block, stand on the block close to her shoulder and run your two thumbs along the sides of her back. Do this from each side. Do not press down directly on her spine, but along the sides of her back. Watch the mare’s expression as you press on her back. If her ears go back and her head goes into the air, you may have found a sore spot.

I like to gently message any sore spots out of the horse’s back. I am not a message therapist, but my equine massage therapist taught me a few tricks. Usually when there is a sore spot on the back, you can feel the tightness. A horse’s back goes through a lot when carrying a rider. Not to mention, some saddles can really pinch and create sore spots. So be sure your saddle properly fits the horse.

Don’t attack the back of the horse when assessing for soreness. Be firm but somewhat gentle. The horse should eventually enjoy the message and even stretch her neck forward in response to the massage. If the back is too sore or tender, find a good equine message therapist and or an equine chiropractor. I have worked with both and have had amazing results. Not all message therapists and chiropractors are created equal so be sure and ask around to find the best licensed professional you can find.

I would like to note that it takes a team to care for a horse.
The team may consist of your vet, farrier, dentist, chiropractor, message therapist, trainer, and or barn staff. Your team may be more or less elaborate. One thing is for sure, at some point in time you will need the help of a professional. Those professionals don't come cheap. I like to get my money's worth and ask lots of questions. I mostly like to educate myself on what I can do to help the horse myself, and when I need to enlist the help of a professional. Don't get in the way, but a little friendly conversation to educate yourself shows the professional that you look to them as an authority and they usually enjoy speaking to you in their area of expertise. The better relationship you develop with the professional, the more likely you will be to call that specific individual in your horse's time of need. It is a win, win situation.

After the evaluation, if the horse appears to be in fine physical condition we can move on and assume it is a training problem.
My next post will deal with the training aspect of this problem beginning with groundwork. Until then, evaluate that horse!

Deanna