Rocky Mountain Bushcraft

VIDEO: Cougar vs a Black Bear- showdown over a dead deer

2013-05-16T23:33:00.000-06:00

Viagra Commercial features Bushcraft

2013-05-16T03:31:00.001-06:00

REVIEW: The Gerber Bear Grylls Survival Hatchet- Have hatchets gone wild?

2013-05-15T00:16:00.000-06:00

Have hatchets gone wild? With the arrival of Gerber's new Bear Grylls Survival Hatchet, this just might be the case.

In a surprise turn in the market, hatchets are becoming hot again, after years of languishing in obscurity on dusty hardware store shelves and warehouse overstock sections.

Long passed over by the public who were more enamored of their flashier survival knife cousins, hatchets that used to be shunned as thick-edged and unhip are suddenly the hottest thing-- who da thunk it?

SPECS:

Overall length: 9.46“ (24cm)

Blade length: 3.5“ (8.9cm)

Weight without sheath: 18.6 ounces (as weighed on a digital postal scale)

Weight with sheath: 21.1 ounces (as weighed on a digital postal scale)

Steel Type: 3Cr13MoV

Handle Material: Polypropylene

Sheath Material: Cordura Nylon with velcro closure

Country of manufacture: China

The Hatchet

Milled from a solid bar of 3Cr13MoV Stainless Steel, reportedly in the same factory as the Bear Grylls Ultimate Survival Knife, the Survival Hatchet is designed to be a simple, compact, yet indestructible survival tool.

Its one piece construction, reminescent of Estwing Hatchets, sports a handle made from a hard rubber grip material that's nearly identical to that used on the original Bear Grylls Ultimate Survival Knife. There are finger grooves closer towards the head, which make for a more secure grip when choking up on it for detailed work.

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The Survival Hatchet next to its close cousin- the Bear Grylls Ultimate Survival Knife (upper left) and the new Ultimate Pro Survival Knife (lower left):

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Note the similarity in overall construction and appearance between the Survival Hatchet and the original Ultimate Knife:

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SHEATH

The Survival Hatchet comes with a belt-wearable Cordura Nylon sheath, reminiscent of the sheath that came with Gerber's now defunct Sport Axe.

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Comparison/Profile Shots

Bear Grylls Survival Hatchet next to the recently discontinued Fiskars X5 Mini-Hatchet:

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Profile Comparison (BG Survival Hatchet on the left):

The Bear Grylls Survival Hatchet next to Estwing's 12" all steel Hatchet:

Profile Comparison (Survival Hatchet on the left):

Factory Edge

I was pleasantly surprised to find that the Survival Hatchet came with a razor-sharp edge right out of the box. This makes it the only production hatchet under $40 that comes with this kind of edge. You generally have to spend two to three times more in order to get this kind of edge on a production hatchet.

Here's a comparison of the edge next to Gerber's Ultimate Survival Knife. Though most production axes come with a rounded, convex edge, the Survival Hatchet's edge comes with a standard v-grind that is typically used on knives:

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Hammer Poll

Due to its slender profile, the Survival Hatchet has a very thin hammer poll. (Check out the field testing section below to see how it performed)

FIELD TESTING!

The testing battery was simple -- I wanted to see how well the Survival Hatchet would do while performing common tasks that any hatchet worth its mettle should be able to handle. Things like chopping and splitting kindling, pounding tent stakes, and bucking small sub-4" logs should be second nature for a good hatchet. Also, in a bushcraft and wilderness survival role, having a sharp hatchet that can carve like a knife is a great asset.

Chopping down a small, dead Aspen tree, bucking out a log, and splitting it into kindling

While wandering around the woods at one of my favorite bushcraft spots, I ran across a couple of small, dead Aspen trees that turned out to be great candidates for testing the Survival Hatchet's chopping and splitting ability. The one on the right had more of a clear space in which to fall, so I turned my attention to it and used the Survival Hatchet to chop it down.

Since the Survival Hatchet is so small and lightweight, it took some extra swings to bring down the tree, but it did get the job done.

I then selected a relatively straight area of the tree to buck out a log to split into dry kindling.

The Survival Hatchet handled this task reasonably well, but once again it took a few more swings to get the job done due to it's light weight.

The log measured roughly 3 1/8" wide.

I then laid the bucked log in a notch chopped out of a deadfall tree, in order to split it.

First Swing:

A few swings later and I was able to split the Aspen log clean in half. The thin profile of the Survival Hatchet won't win any awards for splitting, but as long as the logs are kept under 4", it still gets the job done.

Success! Despite the log being rather twisted and difficult to split, I was able to reduce it into a nice pile of campfire-ready kindling.

Fine Carving Test #1- Making a Featherstick

Using one of the pieces split from the Aspen log, I created a tiny featherstick. The Survival Hatchet turned out to be a very competent hatchet for fine carving work, owing to its thin profile and knife-style edge.

Fine Carving Test #2- Tent Stake

For the second carving test, I found a dead Fir tree branch that was a good size for converting into a tent stake.

Using just the hatchet, I carved out a rough, but usable stake and then drove it into the ground with the hammer poll.

The Survival Hatchet did an excellent job with carving out the tent stake, but driving the stake into the ground without destroying the top of it (due to the thin poll) proved a bit more challenging. As long as I took it easy, the Survival Hatchet got the job done, but it definitely lacks in this department compared to most traditional hatchets.

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Chopping Test #1- The Bear Grylls Survival Hatchet vs the Fiskars X5 Mini-Hatchet

For the first chopping test, I pitted the Survival Hatchet against the recently discontinued, but highly effective Fiskars X5 Mini-Hatchet. Each hatchet was used to chop 30 times into a dead Aspen tree.

Though the weight of the hatchets varies by less than two ounces (the X5 comes in at 1.8 ounces lighter), the X5 carries much more of its weight in the head. This gave it a definite advantage over the Survival Hatchet in the chopping test.

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Chopping Test #2- The Bear Grylls Survival Hatchet vs the 12" Estwing Hatchet

For this test, I obtained a 12" Estwing Hatchet, and spent a few minutes sharpening the edge to bring it up to par with the Survival Hatchet. Though the latest Estwing Hatchets come with thin, Gransfors Bruks' style edges, they still require some hand sharpening before doing any serious chopping.

After 30 chops into a dead Lodgepole Pine, it was apparent that the Estwing dominated this test even more than the Fiskars X5 did the previous test.

Like the X5, the Estwing has more weight towards the head than the Survival Hatchet. It also has a length and weight advantage, coming in at roughly 2" longer in overall length and about 3/4 of an ounce heavier. These features definitely gave the Estwing a significant advantage (look for our upcoming review of Estwing's thinner-profiled hatchets by mid-summer).

Chopping Test #3- The Bear Grylls Survival Hatchet vs the Ontario 10.5" Bladed RTAK II Survival Knife

Sorry NutNFancy, but the mighty Ontario RTAK II, 10.5" blade and all, got bested by the 3.8 ounce lighter Survival Hatchet in the chopping test, which consisted of 40 chops into a dead Lodgepole Pine tree.

Though big survival knives like the Ontario RTAK II are well constructed and make excellent survival tools, they just can't overcome the Law of Physics when it comes to chopping performance, which favors weight-forward axes and hatchets.

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This is one of the reasons hatchets are making a comeback. People are rediscovering just how effective they are when properly sharpened and profiled, as evidenced by this test. Another reason is that unlike many survival knives, it's extremely rare to see a Youtube video where a hatchet "broke in half."

This combination of superior chopping performance and durability has been catching the public's attention, even spreading to popular V-loggers who used to push survival knives exclusively, such as Equip2Endure, and many others.

Conclusion

Though it's not something I'd recommend to serious axe users, who would be better served with a more capable Estwing or traditional wood-handled hatchet, if you're new to the world of axes, and want to try a sharp, affordable, and easy to use hatchet to see why "hatchets have gone wild," the Gerber Bear Grylls Survival Hatchet just might be the ticket for your next wilderness adventure.

Pros

Factory-honed razor-sharp edge right out of the box. Unlike its competition, the Survival Hatchet doesn't require experience sharpening axes to make it optimal.

Great hatchet for fine carving, making it a good candidate for bushcrafting

Lightweight, easier for less experienced people to use.

Edge-holding is respectable for a soft steel. No edge degradation occurred during the tests, indicating good toughness and durability.

One piece construction means no alignment issues or worrying about a wood handle breaking.

Comfortable, secure handle

Decent Cordura nylon belt carry sheath

Outchopped an RTAK II!

Cons

The thin hammer poll makes pounding in tent stakes a bit more challenging than with most hatchets

Handle is a bit short, could really benefit from an extra 1-2" in length

Weight not distributed towards the head as much as most hatchets, making it less effective as a chopper

Not drop-forged like most hatchets

Experienced axe enthusiasts will probably enjoy the feel and performance of a traditional hatchet or Estwing better.

Made in China (the Estwing is made in the USA and Fiskars is made in Finland)

Overall Rating- 3.75 out of 5 Stars (Recommended)

For more information, visit Gerber's website at:

http://www.gerbergear.com/Survival/Gear/Survival-Hatchet_31-002070

Tips & Tricks: How to Clean your Water Bottles

2013-05-12T14:39:00.001-06:00

(Article courtesy of REI)

Over time, reusable plastic water bottles occasionally develop unpleasant odors and/or tastes. This typically occurs when bottles are stored incorrectly or cleaned infrequently.

Most rigid water bottles are made out of either polyethylene plastic (which tends to be cloudy in appearance) polypropylene (which comes in medium to dark colors) or copolyester (which can be clear, frosted or colored). Most hydration system reservoirs have polyethylene linings, which retain tastes and odors more easily than polycarbonate. But all plastic bottles can develop unwanted tastes or odors if cared for incorrectly.

General Care

The best way to maintain any plastic water bottle or bladder bag is to rinse it out after each use and to let it air dry completely. Most odor and taste problems occur when bottles are stored in wet areas or kept sealed for long periods of time with liquid inside. Polyethylene bottles can also develop unpleasant tastes/odors when they're used to store a variety of acidic juices.

Cleaning

If your water bottle develops a funky taste or odor, try the following procedure:

Put a teaspoon of bleach and a teaspoon of baking soda in the bottle and fill it with water.
Let the bottle sit overnight.
Rinse out the bottle completely the next day (or run it through the dishwasher).
Let the bottle air dry completely.

When cleaning hydration reservoirs, rinse them thoroughly and let them completely air dry before using them again. Do not place in your dishwasher.

Tip: Some tastes and odors can be removed from plastic water bottles simply by rinsing them with anti-bacterial mouthwash.

EDITOR'S NOTE: A reader emailed us to share this cool trick, which recommends the use of Denture Cleaner tablets to clean hydration bladders:

"I always tell customers to clean their hydration bladder with an Efferdent (Denture Cleaner) Tablet. Follow the directions like cleaning dentures in a glass of water. It gets rid of any foul orders & is safe for human consumption.... Love your blog."

Thanks to the reader (who wished to remain anonymous) for sharing this!

-RMB

Latest News/List of upcoming Articles and Reviews - May 4th, 2013

2013-05-04T01:40:00.000-06:00

Dear readers,

As you may have noticed, post count is down lately. I apologize for this, but I have been busy preparing to travel to different parts of the Rockies. I'm going to spend the summer living in the bush and working on RMB. Can't wait! I'm preparing a whole boatload of new material that will be posted over the coming weeks and months.

I hope you'll continue to stop by for the further adventures of the RMB team!

Cheers!

Jason and Leah

Latest News

Our recent review of Gerber's new Bear Grylls Ultimate Pro Survival Knife is now the #1 Review on Google!

Also- a special thanks to the Ray Mears crew for posting our write-up of the Ray Mears Wilderness Axe on their Facebook page. It's a great honor, because as many of you know, I'm a big fan of Ray's books and documentaries!

Upcoming Articles and Reviews

REVIEWS

Benchmade Bushcrafter Knife- took some extra time with this one, but it's WORTH the wait!.

Gerber Bear Grylls Survival Hatchet- Have Hatchets Gone Wild?

Henry AR-7 Wilderness Survival Rifle

Gransfors Bruks American Felling Axe VS the Wetterlings American Forest Axe

Vasque Taku GTX Ultralite Hiking/Bushcrafting Boots

Review of the Barco-Kelly "Kelly Perfect" Dayton Axe and Michigan Cruiser Axes

More "Made in the USA" gear reviews

ARTICLES

Rocky Mountain Tree Identification: The Pinyon Pine Tree

How I sharpen Knives and Axes

Thoughts on Prepping and the Prepper Movement

And many more!

Grizzly Cauldron: Return of the Gray Wolf | National Geographic Nature Documentary

2013-04-30T02:04:00.001-06:00

This is one of the most fascinating documentaries I've seen regarding Grizzly Bears. I think you will enjoy this one!

"Made in the USA" Gear Review: AYG Men's Performance Sports/Hiking Briefs

2013-04-26T01:56:00.000-06:00

I'm pretty sure this review isn't gonna fire up readers' imaginations the way a good bushcraft article or knife review will, but the reality is that a good pair of underwear really makes a difference in whether a long hike or backpacking trip is comfortable or not.

If you wear the wrong briefs, your thighs can become chafed, or even blistered. I'm sorry to say that I've had a few bad experiences in the past that nearly ruined my trips. This led me on a search to find a good pair of briefs that were comfortable, breathable and kept me chafe-free. I got lucky last year when our sponsor LifeView Outdoors suggested that I try a pair of AYG Performance Sports Briefs. I took them up on their offer, and it turned out to be a really smart decision.

The SPECS:

Quick drying, wicking, breathable
4-way stretch for maximum agility
Anti-microbial
Athletic fit
Odor resistant
Fights bacteria
Comfortable flat seams
Weight- 4oz
Made in North Carolina, USA
Street Price- $19.95

To me, these briefs resemble those worn by runners and cyclists, and they do in fact share a similar design. They are made of a blend of 92% "Acclimate Dry Polyester" and 8% Spandex, and touted as "anti-microbial" and "odor-resistant." The Acclimate Dry Polyester, originally developed by PolarMax, also makes the claim "Feels like Cotton but wicks like polyester."

AYG's 4-way Stretch Boxer Brief

After wearing these briefs on numerous hikes, backpacking trips, and field testing excursions, I quickly became a believer, as they turned out to be a major step up from conventional briefs, even those made of cotton.

These AYG Performance Sports Briefs caused no chafing, are super comfortable, breathable, and have plenty of support for longer trips to my favorite bushcrafting spots. After many washings, they also held up well and seem to be durably constructed.

Well-made and comfortable, these AYG Performance Briefs would be a great piece of gear to add to your backpacking/hiking arsenal. And they're made right here in the USA!

5 out of 5 Stars (Highly Recommended)

AYG Performance Briefs are available from LifeView Outdoors- http://www.lifeviewoutdoors.com/outdoor-clothing-and-technical-apparel/mens-outdoor-clothing/mens-ayg-underwear/ayg-mens-sports-brief-black.html

Battle of the Compact Bushcraft Axes!

2013-04-18T22:22:00.001-06:00

Compact bushcraft axes have skyrocketed in popularity in recent years, driven in part by a celebrity endorsement from famed UK bushcrafter/TV personality Ray Mears, and by strong word of mouth through various internet forums and bloggers. This has helped compact bushcraft axes become top sellers for major axe companies.

Why have these axes become so popular? Simple -- portability and versatility. A compact bushcraft axe is small enough to be used as a one handed hatchet, and large enough to swing as a two-handed axe for more serious chopping and splitting tasks.

Using a Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe as a one-handed hatchet to shape wood

As popular as compact bushcraft axes are, not everyone is a fan. One of their biggest critics is bushcrafting legend Mors Kochanski, who feels that carrying an axe with anything less than a 23" to 25" handle and a 2 to 2.5 pound head is too light for serious bush work.

Also, in a review of the Wetterlings Large Hunting Axe many years ago on the Old Jimbo website, they found it "to be neither fish nor fowl. It is too heavy for a backpacking or carry axe that you will always have with you and not versatile enough as an all around using axe. It is somewhat clumsy as a two handed axe and does not cut as well as either of the larger axes. I found it fatiguing to use for any length of time."

In general, I agree with these sentiments, but I still think compact axes have certain advantages over larger axes.

Why Carry a Compact Bushcraft Axe?

Since many consumers have limited budgets and are forced to choose between buying either an axe or a hatchet, but not both, a compact bushcraft axe represents a good compromise, since it can function reasonably well in both roles.

A compact bushcraft axe is also easier to handle than a larger axe, which means it will have a faster learning curve.

Finally, a compact axe is generally the largest axe you can carry inside a daypack, for instance. This is important if you want to carry an axe discreetly in your pack as a wilderness survival tool, or build a campfire on a day hike, without getting bogged down carrying a larger, heavier axe.

All three of the axes in this write-up easily fit inside this diminutive Kelty Redtail 30 Daypack.

What exactly defines a compact bushcraft axe? There have been many discussions on axe forums, but the general consensus is that it is an axe or a large hatchet with a 1.4 to 1.6 lb head and an overall length of between 17" to 21".

We would like to say a special thanks to Ben's Backwoods for providing the Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe, and to Gerber Gear for sending us the Gerber Camp Axe II used in this article.

The Contenders

Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe

The SPECS:

Overall Length: 19.5"

Weight: 34.8 Ounces without sheath, 36.3 with sheath

Head weight: 1.5 pounds

Handle type: American Grade "A" Hickory
Steel- Hand Forged, Swedish Carbon Steel (composition considered a trade secret)

Country of origin: Made in the Sweden

Warranty: 20 Years
Company website
Price- $120.00, available from Ben's Backwoods

The Small Forest Axe, made by Gransfors Bruks in Sweden, is the compact axe by which all others are judged. It was popularized in the UK by bushcraft expert, author and TV personality Ray Mears in the 1990s and early 2000s. When bushcraft gained popularity in the States during the last decade, the Small Forest Axe became popular here as well.

Hand forged, and constructed using classic 19th Century American axe-making techniques, the quality, finish, and durability of these axes is now legendary. You can see a more detailed history of Gransfors Bruks and their approach to axe-making by checking out our review of the Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet here.

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Wetterlings Large Hunting Axe

The SPECS:

Overall Length: 19.5"

Weight: 34.3 Ounces without sheath, 36.6 with sheath

Head weight: 1.5 pounds

Handle type: High grade American Hickory
Steel- Hand Forged, Swedish Carbon Steel (composition considered a trade secret)

Country of origin: Made in the Sweden

Warranty: Lifetime
Company Website
Price- $89.99, available from Bailey's Online

The Wetterlings Large Hunting Axe can probably best be described as the Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe's practical, budget-minded, cousin. Constructed using the same, traditional axe-making techniques as the Small Forest Axe, the primary differences between the two are fit and finish.

Gransfors Bruks' axes are constructed with greater attention to quality control and more expensive features, such as higher grade, beeswax-coated hickory handles, and more consistently forged heads. Wetterlings forgoes these subtleties and instead, focuses on creating an axe that is rough around the edges, but high on function.

This slightly lower standard of fit and finish usually means that a Wetterlings can be had for roughly $20 to $50 cheaper than an equivalent Gransfors axe, yet, performs as well as its more expensive cousin. This has led many to refer to Wetterlings as a "working man's Gransfors axe."

This cost to performance ratio has created a rabid following for Wetterlings, even in some cases rivaling the popularity of Gransfors Bruks.

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Gerber Camp Axe II

The SPECS:

Overall Length: 17.5"

Weight: 36.5 ounces without sheath, 39.0 ounces with sheath

Head weight: 1.6 pounds

Handle type: Glass-filled Nylon
Steel- Drop Forged, Medium Carbon Finnish Steel (composition considered a trade secret)

Country of origin: Made in Finland by Fiskars

Warranty: Lifetime
Company Website
Price- $35 to $45, available from Amazon.com

The Gerber Camp Axe II, or as I affectionately like to call it- the "Star Wars Axe," is the ultra-compact, synthetic-handled wonder axe of this group. I can seriously imagine Luke Skywalker climbing out of his X-Wing Fighter with one of these in hand, ready to chop up kindling on the Planet Dagobah to build a campfire. "Hey Yoda, campfire's ready! Bring some of that outrageously bad-tasting bat soup over here so we can heat it up!"

Don't let the synthetic handle fool you though. These "She blinded me with science!" axes are actually highly efficient choppers, splitters and fine carvers. The mad scientists at Fiskars certainly knew what they were doing when they designed these, as you'll see further down in the field review section.

For more information about Fiskars/Gerber X-Series axes, check out our reviews of the Fiskars X7 Hatchet and X15 Chopping Axe.

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Let the Battle Begin!

To judge the overall winner of these three competitors, I devised seven simple, yet reliable, tests that I've used many times to test axes in our previous reviews. These tests include: Chopping, Splitting, Limbing, Featherstick-making, Balance, Overall Comfort, and Quality.

TEST #1- CHOPPING
(30 chops per axe on two separate logs)

WINNER- Wetterlings Large Hunting Axe

SECOND PLACE- Tied between the Gerber Camp Axe II and the Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe

All three of the axes chopped great for their size, but the Large Hunting Axe ended up taking the prize. It consistently outchopped the Camp Axe II and Small Forest Axe by about 10%.

The Camp Axe II and Small Forest Axe were so closely matched that they finished in a draw.

Chop Test #1 (from left to right- Wetterlings, Gerber, Gransfors Bruks)

(click to enlarge any photo)

Chop Test #2 (from left to right- Gransfors Bruks, Gerber, Wetterlings)

TEST #2 - SPLITTING

WINNER- Gerber Camp Axe II

SECOND PLACE- A draw between the Large Hunting Axe and Small Forest Axe

For the splitting test, I grabbed a few well seasoned Ponderosa Pine logs that had been bucked with a saw. Each axe was tested by splitting one of these logs into four quarters on top of a flat chopping block.

In spite of it's short handle, the Camp Axe II's wedge-shaped head clearly dominated this test, and was effective enough that it even made the log fly apart upon striking it! The Small Forest Axe and Large Hunting Axe, though not as effective as the Camp Axe, were still competent enough splitters to get the job done, albeit, with an extra swing or two. Neither the Large Hunting Axe or the Small Forest Axe felt like the better splitter, so they ended up in a draw.

Profile shot of the Gerber Camp Axe II (left) next to the Wetterlings Large Hunting Axe (right). The Gerber's wedge-shaped head gave it a clear advantage in this test.

TEST #3 - LIMBING A TREE

WINNER- Wetterlings Large Hunting Axe

SECOND PLACE- Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe

THIRD PLACE- Gerber Camp Axe II

A dead, blown-down Douglas Fir Tree was used as the "victim" for the limbing test. The longer handles of the traditional Swedish axes had a distinct reach advantage over the shorter Camp Axe and so came out on top in this test. The Wetterlings just edged out the Gransfors Bruks due to it's slightly better chopping ability, which pushed it into first place.

TEST #4 - FEATHERSTICKS

WINNER- Wetterlings Large Hunting Axe

SECOND PLACE- Gerber Camp Axe II

THIRD PLACE- Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe

In my experience using/testing lots of axes, I've found that an axe's ability to make a good featherstick is usually a good indicator of its ability to do other fine work and shaping tasks.

Out of the three, the Wetterlings really shined in this test, being the easiest to use to push-cut the wood into nice feathered curls. The Camp Axe II turned in a solid second place performance, and was nearly as easy to use, turning out a well-made featherstick.

The Small Forest Axe made the finest curls, but was the hardest to featherstick with, since it made push-cutting more difficult than the other two axes. This affected its ability to make larger feathers as well. I found this surprising, since my experiences with the Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet and Scandinavian Forest Axe have been the complete opposite.

TEST #5 - BALANCE

WINNERS- Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe and Wetterlings Large Hunting Axe

SECOND PLACE- Gerber Camp Axe II

Both the Small Forest Axe and Large Hunting Axe balanced perfectly in the hand, so they shared the winning spot.

The Camp Axe II, in comparison with the Large Hunting Axe and Small Forest Axe, balanced poorly. Just after the photo below was snapped, the heavy-headed/light handled Gerber nose-dived out of my hand towards the ground. Had I not "Used the Force" and caught the handle in mid-flight, the Camp Axe would have hit the snow with a big "ker-plunk!"

Gerber Camp Axe II

Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe

Wetterlings Large Hunting Axe

TEST #6 - OVERALL COMFORT

WINNER- Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe

SECOND PLACE- Wetterlings Large Hunting Axe

THIRD PLACE- Gerber Camp Axe II

In terms of overall comfort, the Small Forest Axe was the clear winner in this test. In my opinion, Gransfors Bruks makes some of the best production axe handles out there, rivaled only by Council Tool's excellent Velvicut handles. The design of the Small Forest Axe handle makes it feel very secure and comfortable in the hand.

The Wetterlings' handle, while also very comfortable, feels just a bit too thick by comparison.

The Gerber's handle, though comfortable, feels a bit cramped when using it two-handed compared to its longer, wooden-handled rivals. However, using it one-handed feels nearly as comfortable as using the Small Forest Axe, since the overall shape of the handle makes for a comfortable grip.

(Left to right: Wetterlings, Gransfors Bruks, Gerber)

TEST #7 - QUALITY

WINNER- Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe

SECOND PLACE- Wetterlings Large Hunting Axe

THIRD PLACE- Gerber Camp Axe II

As mentioned in the Small Forest Axe's summary, it is the compact axe by which all others are judged, and this is not by accident. Gransfors Bruks simply makes the highest quality production axes in the world. These axes have been field tested by thousands of wilderness enthusiasts since the early 1990s. Without a doubt it is an axe built so well that you can stake your life on it. True to Gransfors Bruks' well deserved reputation, the Small Forest Axe used in the test was of impeccable quality, making it the easy winner of this category.

The Wetterlings Large Hunting Axe used in this test has been my personal bushcraft axe for several years. I'd rate its overall quality at maybe 85% of the Gransfors. I did have an issue with the edge rolling about a year into ownership, but after re-sharpening, the issue didn't return, and the axe has been a faithful companion since. The steel takes a very sharp edge, and holds the edge nearly as well as the Gransfors Small Forest Axe. The sheath is of high quality and made of heavy, reinforced leather. Sadly, in their latest models Wetterlings replaced these heavy leather sheaths with newer sheaths that use weaker button snaps. Wetterlings informed me that they are currently in the process of fixing this issue.

The Gerber Camp II (which is a Gerber-branded Fiskars X-Series Axe), is of excellent quality for such an affordable axe. Yes, the balance of a traditional wood-handled axe is lacking, but for the money, it's excellent at chopping, excels at splitting, and rivals the Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe in fine carving. The steel, once sharpened, takes a scalpel-like edge and holds it well.

The Gerber Camp Axe II in between fellow X-Series Axes, the Fiskars X7 and Fiskars X15

One issue that I've discovered with Fiskars axes is that they have to be sharpened BEFORE using them, or the edge will roll and dent when chopping initially. Why? Because there seems to be just a tiny bit of soft, extra metal leftover from the drop forging process that causes this issue, but once sharpened, the edges seem to hold up as well as my American, German and Swedish axes.

Sheath comparison of the three axes (Left to right: Wetterlings, Gransfors Bruks, Gerber)

And the winner is.......

First Place- Wetterlings Large Hunting Axe

Winning or tying nearly every performance test, with excellent balance, and quality approaching the Gransfors Bruks, the Wetterlings Large Hunting Axe was the easy choice in this "battle of the compact bushcraft axes" competition.

Yes, the handle is a little on the thick side, the quality is a notch down from a Gransfors Axe, and it doesn't split with the ferocity of the Gerber Camp Axe II. But it's negatives were relatively minor in comparison with it's awesome performance while performing various bushcraft chores.

Second Place- Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe

Though it came in at second place, the Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe still comes out on top when it comes to quality and excellence in axe design.

In spite of its third place ranking in the Featherstick Test, it is still a superb compact bushcraft axe by any measure, and one that gets grabbed as often as my Wetterlings when I head off into the bush. What the Small Forest Axe gives up to the Wetterlings in pure chopping and feathersticking performance, it makes up for with all-day comfort, dead reliability, and probably the best overall steel quality of any production axe.

A few minutes spent with a file and sharpening stone would probably improve its push-cutting ability, making it a top choice for people who prefer the higher quality of a Gransfors' axe over a Wetterlings.

Third Place- Gerber Camp Axe II

Unfortunately, "The Force" just couldn't save the Gerber Camp Axe II from landing in the third spot. In spite of its excellent performance in the chopping, splitting and featherstick categories, it was ultimately hampered by poor balance, along with a shorter handle that's a bit cramped when using it two-handed, compared to its longer-handled rivals. Still, with a street price of roughly $40.00, it's hard to beat, especially considering its overall performance in the test.

CONCLUSION

The truth is, all three of these axes will perform well in the role of a compact bushcraft axe. Purists will, of course, prefer the balance and feel of a fine hickory axe handle over Gerber's synthetic handle. But bushcrafters on a budget, who can't afford the steep entry price of a Swedish axe, can still add the highly capable Camp Axe II to their bushcraft arsenal without breaking the bank. The choice, of course, will ultimately come down to your budget and personal preference.

Benchmade releases new "Bushcrafter" knife- UPDATED

2013-04-14T09:19:00.000-06:00

More evidence of bushcraft's growing popularity!

Popular knife maker Benchmade is releasing a new fixed blade knife called the "Bushcrafter", which features a 4.43" long blade, S30V Stainless Steel, G10 handles, titanium handle spacer tubes, and a brushed buckskin leather dangler sheath with a firesteel loop.

Retail price is listed at $200, but I'm guessing the street price will be in the $120 to $150 range. According to Benchmade's press release, the Bushcrafter will be available for shipping at the end of this month. It looks like an attractive knife with an interesting design, but is it really worth almost four times the price of Mora's superb Black Carbon Bushcraft Knife? Check back here in the coming weeks to see how the two fare in a head to head match!

APRIL 14th, 2013 UPDATE- I have been testing the Bushcrafter since late Feburary, and will have the full review posted within the next 1-2 weeks. Make sure to sign up on our email list at the right side of the page to get notified when it's posted, or if you have a Twitter account, make sure to follow us there!

The SPECS:

Model Name: 162 Bushcrafter

Overall Length: 9.2"

Blade Length: 4.43"

Blade Thickness: 0.164"

Blade Material: S30V Stainless Steel

Blade Hardness: 58-60HRC

Blade Style: Drop-Point

Handle Thickness: 0.92"

Weight: 7.72 oz. (without sheath)

Country of origin: Made in the USA

Test video: Chopping with a Les Stroud Bushman Axe

2013-04-13T04:20:00.000-06:00

This is a test video I did with a pair of Pivothead Video Sunglasses while I was out chopping with a Bushman Axe. Unfortunately, the glasses didn't point down far enough to see all the chopping action, but it was a fun experiment nonetheless. I'm a complete amateur when it comes to video, so please go easy on me- I'm definitely not going to win an Academy Award for this one!

In the video, I'm retesting the Les Stroud Bushman Axe after rolling its edge in the initial field review, and wanted to see how well the edge would hold up after re-sharpening it. I performed several chopping tests since this video was taken, and the edge seems to have held up well. I will post this update to the Bushman Axe review later this week.

Gear Review: Coghlan's Hard Anodized Aluminum Cookset and Carbon Steel Family Cookset

2013-04-12T23:05:00.000-06:00

While I was covering the Winter Outdoor Retailer Show back in January, I stopped by the Coghlan's exhibit to take look at their new line of 2013 products. I was checking out the exhibit when a Coghlan's rep grabbed me and directed my attention towards two new interesting sets of camp cookware that they were releasing this year -- packable Hard Anodized Aluminum and Carbon Steel Camp Cooksets.

Both cooksets are designed to nest together into very compact packages, and feature handy, steel swing-out handles, as well as lids with strainer holes on one side - convenient for making Pasta, etc.

Hard Anodized Aluminum Cookset

The entire Hard Anodized Aluminum Cookset weighs in at just 41.2 ounces (2.58 lbs). The complete set nests together and fits inside the nylon carry bag shown in the photo below. Each set also comes with its own pot scrubber and measuring cup.

All the cookware nested together:

The individual pots and frying pan are also light enough to pack for day hikes and backpacking trips. Here's a breakdown of the individual sizes and weights:

Large Pot- 2.8 quarts, Weight- 12.8 ounces
Medium Pot- 1.8 quarts, Weight- 10.1 ounces
Small Pot- 1 quart, Weight- 7.4 ounces
Frying Pan- 1.2 Quarts, Weight- 8.8 ounces
Total weight (including nylon carrying case, pot scrubber, and measuring cup)- 2.58 lbs

The smallest 1 quart pot (with lid) comes in at a very packable 7.4 ounces, and the 1.2 quart frying pan at 8.8 ounces. This slim weight range gives the cookset enough flexibility to be used around camp or on the trail.

Carbon Steel Family Cookset

Coglan's Carbon Steel Family Cookset is essentially a larger, heavier carbon steel version of the Hard Anodized Aluminum Cookset. Built to withstand the rigors of heavy camp use, it features non-stick surfaces, lids with convenient strainer holes, a pot scrubber, measuring cup, and swing-out steel handles.

The Carbon Steel set is also sized differently, with the largest pot holding a hefty 4.2 quarts. Here is the breakdown:

Large Pot- 4.2 quarts, Weight- 37.3 ounces
Medium Pot- 2.4 quarts, Weight- 27.5 ounces
Small Pot- 1.4 Quarts, Weight- 20.8 ounces
Frying Pan- 1.2 Quarts, Weight- 14.5 ounces
Total weight (including nylon carrying case, pot scrubber, and measuring cup)- 6.39 lbs

Just like its lightweight aluminum counterpart, the carbon steel set nests together to fit neatly inside a nylon carrying case.

The cookset nested together:

Field Testing

I wasn't able to test both cooksets in time for this review, but I did take the large 2.8 quart pot from the Hard Anodized Aluminum Cookset on a recent field trip, and used it to cook up some Ramen noodles. The pot heated evenly, strained well, and the surfaces were non-sticking.

Even without extensive field testing, my impression is that these pots are sturdy and well built. Of course, it will take a few months out in the field to see how well they'll hold up, so as summer approaches and I get to use them more, I'll post an update.

In the meantime, you can check out SectionHiker's recent review of the Hard Anodized Aluminum Cookset, which contains a more thorough field review.

Overall Impression

Both the Aluminum and Carbon Steel cooksets offer a surprising level of fit and finish, and the swing-out handles are both convenient and easy to use. Since the handles are permanently attached with heavy rivets, they can't be lost or misplaced, as is the case with camp pots that have removable handles.

The ability to pack down into such a compact size is a great space-saver, and especially important for people headed off on camping trips with tightly packed vehicles.

One major advantage of the Hard Anodized Aluminum Cookset is that it is light enough to take individual components on hiking and backpacking trips, yet large enough to use as a set around camp, which makes it a flexible option for people who want a cookware set that's a "Jack of all Trades."

The Carbon Steel Family Cookset, due to its heavier weight, is pretty much relegated to camp-only chores, but its larger size and sturdier construction make it a better choice for heavier use and cooking larger meals.

One important thing to note is that these cooksets are primarily designed for use on camping and backpacking stoves, so even though they are metal and can be used on an open campfire if needed, they are not the best option for this role. Pots with handles that allow them to hang over a fire, like Open Country Cookware sells, are better suited if open campfire cooking is your primary goal.

If you cook mainly over liquid fuel or pressurized gas stoves, wood-gas stoves, or over wood fires contained in metal stoves like the Firebox, then the Coghlan's design should work quite well (check out SectionHiker's review showing the pots being used over a wood fire in an open metal stove).

Conclusion

The street price on these sets should be in the $60 to $80 range, and they are available through online retailers at the time of this posting. Traditional brick and mortar outdoor retailers should also have them in stock by summer.

Though a bit pricey for a Coghlan's product, the Hard Anodized Aluminum and Carbon Steel Cooksets are competitively priced when compared to similar offerings from other manufacturers. Both sets are well designed, compact, flexible, and sturdy. The Hard Anodized Aluminum Cookset, in particular, is highly recommended if you want cookware that's great for camping trips, yet light enough to be used on backpacking excursions.

5 out of 5 Stars (Highly Recommended)

For more info, visit: http://coghlans.com/product-category.aspx?ProductCategoryID=20

Chopping with a Ray Mears Wilderness Axe

2013-04-09T21:12:00.000-06:00

I decided to bring my latest addition (or should I say "addiction" ?) with me on a recent photo shoot/gear test outing - a Ray Mears Wilderness Axe, made by Gransfors Bruks in Sweden. I've been dying to try one of these since they came out a couple of years ago. So right before I left to cover SHOT Show back in January, I placed my order for one at the Woodlore website.

Photo credit: raymears.com

The axe took a few weeks to get here from the UK, but thankfully made it safe and sound. Unfortunately, I was so busy after I got back from covering SHOT Show, that I had to let it sit and collect dust for a few months until I could break away from other commitments to give it a try.

I've been dying to try it out and I just couldn't take it anymore! So yesterday, while I was testing some other gear, I grabbed the Wilderness Axe and took it along so I could finally do some chopping with it.

I was able to find both a dead Douglas Fir and a dead Ponderosa Pine while I was meandering through the forest, so I gave the axe a whirl.

On the Douglas Fir, the Wilderness Axe chopped a nice, clean v-notch with relative ease:

I then bucked a dead Ponderosa Pine tree in half with it. The Wilderness Axe chopped through it like a breeze:

The Wilderness Axe has a much heavier head than the Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest, so this really improves chopping performance over the Scandi Axe. Definitely a good first impression, and I was finally able to get my Wilderness Axe chopping "fix" filled!

REVIEW: Gerber Bear Grylls Ultimate Pro Survival Knife

2013-04-04T20:30:00.000-06:00

The Bear Grylls Ultimate Pro Survival Knife was created in response to demand from consumers and knife enthusiasts, who were fond of the original Ultimate Knife, but longed for an upgraded version.

Even though the original Ultimate Knife was praised for its comfortable handle, adept wood carving ability, and handy survival features, it was frequently criticized for having overly soft steel (which required constant sharpening in the field), an anemic whistle, a hard to use diamond sharpener, and a lack of visible full tang construction. You can read more about the pros and cons of the original Ultimate Knife in our full review of it here.

To Gerber's credit, they were paying attention to these criticisms, and decided to team up with Bear Grylls once again in order to create a new "Pro" version of the Ultimate Knife that incorporated these improvements.

The Knife

The new Pro Ultimate Knife features 9Cr19MoV Stainless steel (similar in composition to American 440C Stainless), visible full-tang construction, a stronger survival whistle, an easier to use Carbide sharpener, and a new black and orange color scheme. This new color scheme is quite attractive and makes the knife easy to see when it is lying on the ground:

(click to enlarge)

The Pro Knife weighs 9.6 ounces without the sheath, and 14.1 ounces with the sheath. By comparison, the original Ultimate Knife weighs 8.5 ounces without the sheath, and 13.8 ounces with the sheath. So while the Pro Knife is heavier due to its full tang, its sheath is lighter by 0.7 ounces, keeping the overall weight of the two to within 0.3 ounces.

The Pro Knife's new exposed full-tang and beefier hammer pommel (right) shown next to the original Ultimate Knife (left):

Top to bottom comparison of the Pro Ultimate Knife (top), Original Ultimate Knife (middle) and Gerber's LMF II Survival Knife (bottom):

Handle comparison (from left to right- Gerber LMF II, Pro Ultimate Knife, Original Ultimate Knife):

Blade comparison (from left to right- Gerber LMF II, Pro Ultimate Knife, Original Ultimate Knife):

A small change is the size of the ribbing on the rubberized handle. The Pro Knife has larger ribbing than the original Ultimate Knife.

Another change is the addition of a finger choil:

Finger choils tend to generate controversy, since some people love them, and others consider them a waste of blade space.

On the negative side, they can leave less of an edge for cutting and batoning. On the positive side, they can be an asset when needing to choke up on the blade to skin small game animals, etc., and can also make the blade a little easier to sharpen. Since the edge is not butted right against the finger guard, this area can be a little easier to reach with a sharpening stone. I've included my impression of the finger choil in the field testing below.

Choking up on the Pro Knife using the finger choil

Whistle

The Pro Knife includes a more robust whistle than the previous version.

Comparison of the Pro version whistle (right) next to the original Ultimate Knife whistle (left):

The Sheath

The Pro Knife's sheath has been completely redesigned with a new black and orange color scheme, and includes several notable improvements, such as a longer firesteel that sits in an upright slot, a carbide pull through sharpener, and a new pocket at the top of the sheath for the Priorities of Survival Pocket Guide.

The Pro Knife firesteel (left) next to the original Ultimate Knife firesteel (right)

New sheath pocket:

The sheath pocket can also be used to stash an emergency fishing kit or other compact survival goodies if desired:

The back of the Pro Sheath (left) next to the original Ultimate Sheath (right). The Pro Sheath does away with both the Emergency Signals guide and the extra loops that allow for sideways carry.

The Carbide pull-through sharpener:

The sharpener can be removed by unscrewing two small T6 Torx screws (shown in the orange area) so that it can be switched for right or left handed operation, or removed for replacement:

Comparison of the Pro sharpener (left) next to the original Ultimate Knife's diamond sharpener (right):

The Pro Knife locks into the sheath in much the same way as the original Ultimate Knife, but does away with the plastic sheath-lock that was on the older version:

The sheath's new black and orange colors make it easy to find if dropped into water or snow:

The sheath also has a drain hole at the bottom to allow water to escape:

FIELD TESTING

To field test the Pro Knife, I wanted to focus mainly on the performance of the upgraded features. In our review of the original Ultimate Knife last year, I already covered many of the unchanged features, such as lashing the knife to a pole, striking the firesteel to start a fire, opening a can, and general wood carving.

In particular I wanted to test 1) the ability of the 9Cr19MoV Stainless to take a sharp edge 2) the edge retention of the new steel 3) the built-in Carbide sharpener to determine its effectiveness, and also to see how easy the steel is to re-sharpen 4) the finger choil to see how it might affect batoning and featherstick-making 5) the feel of the knife with the new full tang construction while using it out in the field, and 6) the improved survival whistle.

Survival Whistle

I had a friend stand 75 feet away with his back towards me. I then blew the whistles from both the Pro Knife and the original Ultimate Knife, and asked him which whistle was louder. I repeated this test three times. According to my friend, the new Pro Knife whistle was just barely louder, with a slightly deeper tone to it.

Testing the 9Cr19MoV Stainless, Sharpener, and Finger Choil

In order to test the new, upgraded steel on the Pro Knife, I did some chopping on a small, dead Aspen tree, batoned and carved out a pitchwood tinder knot, and made a featherstick. After these tasks were finished, I checked the edge to see how well it held up, then used the Carbide sheath sharpener to re-sharpen the edge, taking note of how easy it was to perform this task.

Chopping

Below is a small dead, Aspen tree that I chopped down with the Pro Knife. I then bucked a piece out, simulating a wilderness survival skill to find dry wood to make fire under wet conditions. The extra weight of the Pro Knife gave it an edge over the original Ultimate Knife when performing this task.

(click to enlarge)

Batoning and carving out a pitchwood knot for fire tinder

To test the Pro Knife's ability to handle stress, as well as to see if having a finger choil would reduce the Pro Knife's ability to baton wood, I grabbed a Ponderosa Pine pitchwood knot that I cut last year and batoned and carved it into a pitchwood tinder stick.

Even though this is just a piece of pine, the wood near the base on these old growth mountain pine knots is stronger than oak, and often very twisted. I've cut hundreds of them, and have seen them chip and roll edges on heavy knives and machetes, so it was no easy feat for the Pro Knife.

Success! The Pro Knife did an excellent job of reducing this piece into a beautiful chunk of flammable pitchwood (also known as fatwood), with no degradation of the edge noted.

Finger Choil

Having the finger choil didn't seem to affect the knife's ability to baton:

Featherstick Making

The Pro Knife, like its predecessor, is very adept at making feathersticks. The finger choil didn't seem to make that much of a difference in either a positive or a negative way with this task.

Steel Performance/Using the Built-In Sharpener

So how did the edge hold up? -- Leaps and bounds ahead of the original Ultimate Knife's edge. The 9Cr19MoV Stainless has edge-holding that's at least as good as 440C with a good heat treatment, and possibly better. I was very impressed by its performance and was honestly a bit surprised, as I didn't expect a Chinese stainless to hold an edge this well.

The ability to hold an edge is a great quality, but not if comes at the price of being hard to sharpen. I was very curious to see how difficult this steel would be to re-sharpen, and also how effectively the built-in Carbide sharpener would perform.

After trying the sharpener in several different positions, I found that holding the sheath as shown in the photos below was the easiest way to pull the knife through to sharpen it. Others may have different results of course, but this was the easiest way for me.

After just 3-4 pulls on the sharpener, the Pro Knife was actually sharp enough to shave with - very impressive. In fact, I was able to make this knife sharper with just the sheath sharpener, than I ever could make the original Ultimate Knife - even when I used my best ceramic sharpening stones and a leather strop. So all in all, the 9Cr19MoV turned out to be an excellent knife steel.

Conclusion

So will fans of the original Ultimate Knife find the new Pro version to be a worthy upgrade? Despite the $30.00 price increase -- definitely yes, in my opinion.

The steel is a significant improvement in all aspects, including edge-holding, ease of sharpening, and the ability to take a sharper edge than the original version.

The visible full tang construction and beefier hammer pommel also mean greater overall strength -- a critical feature in a survival knife. This increased strength inspires confidence that the Ultimate Pro can be depended upon in a critical situation.

The revised sheath, which includes a new, easier to use Carbide sharpener, along with a firesteel placed in an upright position, is also an improvement.

I like the slightly smaller, sleeker design of the sheath, including the attractive and easy to find contrasting orange and black color. The same goes for the knife, as the new black/orange scheme is more attractive than the original and gives the knife a slightly more serious appearance.

Negatives? Yes -- the whistle is only marginally improved. I'm not sure why a more robust whistle wasn't added, as this could have been a golden opportunity for Gerber to improve upon this useful survival feature. The whistle is still effective, but could be better.

Another issue is the velcro retaining strap on the sheath. The simple addition of a heavy duty button snap ala' Gerber's LMF II sheath would have made the strap more reliable, and given it a feeling of higher quality.

Also, as I mentioned in our review of the original Bear Grylls Ultimate Knife last year, I'm still not a fan of the extra large "BG" logo on the handle, and was hoping this might be toned down a bit in the Pro version. I'm still hoping that Gerber will come out with a less conspicuous, American-made version of this knife, say something along the lines of a fine-edged LMF II, but with upgraded 154CM or S30V Steel. That would be a very attractive proposition, and one that I'd certainly be interested in.

Despite these criticisms, I think this is a much improved version of Gerber's best selling knife, and one that fans of the original version will certainly enjoy. In fact, this might even be a knife that critics, who panned the original version, might finally consider a serious, field-worthy survival blade.

4.5 out of 5 Stars

For more information, visit: www.gerbergear.com/Survival/Knives/Bear-Grylls-Ultimate-Pro_31-001901

Quick Review: Council Tool Boy's Axe, US Forest Service Edition- UPDATED

2013-04-04T12:01:00.000-06:00

If you're a fan of Council Tool axes, this is the one to grab before they go bye-bye. Council has decided to sell their last remaining stock of US Forest Service Spec'd Boy's Axes, which feature a higher level of quality control and a better bit profile than Council's standard Boy's Axe.

The Forest Service Edition also ditches Council's ill-conceived aluminum wedge for a more stable plastic wedge. In addition, the head is epoxied to the handle for additional strength.

Here's a direct link to the Forest Service's Single and Double Bit Axe Specification Sheet if you're curious to find out more about their standards.

The SPECS:

Overall length: 28" Listed on Council's website, review sample measured in at 27.5"
Head Weight: 2.25lbs

Overall Weight: 48.9 Ounces (as measured on a digital postal scale)
Handle Type: Grade "A" American Shagbark Hickory

Country of Origin: Made in Lake Waccamaw, North Carolina USA

Price: $45.00 (USD)

Warranty: None

The Forest Service specifies that the overall quality of the handle and alignment be as close to perfect as possible (Council advertises in their product description that these axes come with Grade "A" handles). On this particular sample, the quality of the wood, grain direction and alignment seem to confirm this.

These same specs also call for the handle to be protected by a thin coat of lacquer. This may surprise some readers, but if done right, like on this axe, it can actually work pretty well. No, it's not going to compete with a beeswax and linseed treated handle like on a Gransfors Bruks axe, but it works well enough that many people may not even notice it.

The handle is also slightly thinner and more contoured than a standard Council Boy's Axe, and highly reminiscent of vintage axe handles.

On the cutting edge, the Forest Service calls for a Rockwell Hardness of between 54-58RC, while Council's internal standards call for a bit hardness of between 48-55RC. On this particular sample, I think Council's softer standards won out. If I had to guess, this axe is no harder than 51-53RC, based on my experience sharpening it. In fact, the steel didn't seem any harder than the 9 other Council Tool axes I've owned/reviewed over the last few years.

The Boy's Axe FSS's out-of the-box sharpness was slightly better than other Council Tool axes I've used, but definitely not razor sharp. This isn't surprising, since the Forest Service prefers to do their own axe sharpening in-house.

Size comparison next to a Husqvarna Forest Axe (left) and a Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe (right)

Profile Comparison between a Wetterlings 2012 Swedish Forest Axe (Left) and a Gransfors Bruks Scandinavian Forest Axe (Right).

CONCLUSION

In spite of the soft steel, I feel that this is the best axe Council has to offer outside of their Velvicut line. For $45, you get a Forest Service spec'd Boy's Axe with upgraded build quality, along with a straightly-aligned Class "A" hickory handle. I did perform some off-the-camera chopping with it and it performed well, though edge holding wasn't as good as my Swedish and Vintage American axes. For people that live in very cold places, the softer steel could be a good thing, since it should be more chip and break resistant.

I really liked the handle, and it felt very comfortable in the hand. The lacquer was thinly applied and nicely done, so I didn't find myself longing for a raw, linseed-oiled handle as much I would have thought. As I mentioned at the beginning of this review, these are unsold leftovers from a previous Forest Service contract with Council, so I'd grab one before they sell out.

April 4, 2013 UPDATE- Please disregard our comment below which said that the Boy's Axe FSS was back in production. Council Tool has informed us that the Council Tool FSS Boy's Axe is now officially discontinued. Apparently, Council lost the military contract for this axe, and they will also be coming out with a new Velvicut version of this axe sometime in late Spring. These factors seemed to influenced their decision to stop production. The Velvicut version is expected to cost the same price as the existing Velvicut Hudson Bay Axe.

This is too bad, as I feel that this axe could be a classic in Council Tool's line. I was informed that there are only 30-50 of these left between Bailey's, Omaha Knife and Council Tool, so if you've been wanting one, better grab one while you can.

4 out of 5 Stars (Recommended)

The Boy's Axe Forest Service Edition is available from Bailey's Online: http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=22DV28C+FSS&catID

Quick Update- March 25th 2013

2013-03-25T09:43:00.002-06:00

Dear readers,

I will be field testing gear for the next few days, which requires me to camp out in the mountains where I won't have access to the internet. Once I return I will resume posting.

I am also finishing reviews on a couple of new and exciting knives by Gerber and Benchmade, so there will be plenty of fresh material coming your way soon!

Cheers!

Jason

"Made in the USA" Gear Review: Wintergreen Northern Wear Expedition Shell Anorak & Guide Shell Pants

2013-03-19T22:14:00.000-06:00

Wintergreen Northern Wear, located in Ely Minnesota, was originally founded by Paul and Susan Schurke, a husband and wife team with extensive experience exploring the Arctic Circle.

Paul had the notable distinction of being on the famed 1986 Steger International Polar Expedition, the first team in history to reach the North Pole without resupply.

Paul's wife Susan, taking a cue from the garb she'd seen Eskimos wear, designed and crafted the clothing that was used by the Steger team.

This clothing was so well made that it kept the team warm down to an incredible -75 Degrees Fahrenheit. Based on this success, Paul and Susan decided to create the Wintergreen Northern Wear line.

The 1986 Steger International Polar Expedition Team, which includes Paul Schurke, wearing clothing designed by soon-to-be founder of Wintergreen Northern Wear, Susan Schurke (photo credit: Will Steger Foundation)

Susan Schurke, notable dog sledder, wilderness skills instructor, and Arctic explorer.

Expedition Shell Anorak and Guide Shell Pants

Wintergreen's Expedition Shell Anorak and Guide Shell Pants were designed to be extreme cold weather technical outer layers for trekking through arctic and subarctic climates.

Since many parts of the Rocky Mountains are considered subarctic, the Anorak Shell and Guide Pants looked to be excellent candidates for winter bushcrafting when I ran across them last year. Coincidentally, I also found out that they were made in the USA so I contacted Wintergreen, asking if they would be interested in having us review them for our "Made in the USA" series. Happily they agreed!

During this inquiry, I found out that Paul and Susan Schurke sold Wintergreen to current owners Curt and Becky Stacey back in 2009, in order to focus more attention on their Dogsled Lodge and Adventures Company.

When specialty companies sell their businesses to new owners, it doesn't always go so well. Luckily for Wintergreen, this hasn't been the case.

Even though the Schurkes are no longer running Wintergreen, quality and customer service has remained high. In fact, having spoken with Becky Stacey several times (Becky manages the day to day operations of Wintergreen), I can tell that she is very committed and enthusiastic about Wintergreen's quality, history, and pride in employing US workers.

(From left to right) Curt Stacey, Becky Stacey, Susan Schurke, Paul Schurke

Expedition Shell Anorak

Features/Specifications:

Outer shell constructed from treated 3-ply nylon with DWR (Durable Water Repellency), made to shield the body from the wind, also breathable.
Shakes off moisture easily and breathes better than Gore-tex under extreme cold conditions
Designed for polar expeditions or other extreme cold adventures
Ample design for layering to trap air and hold in body heat
Silky polyester shelter lining is suspended from the shoulders to prevent moisture traps
Adjustable draw-cord waist and hood and inside zip pockets
Zip-on Coyote Fur Ruff as an option (ruffs are obtained only from Inuit hunters who harvest them as a sustainable resource in the Canadian Arctic)
Two styles available- 1) Partial-Zip pullover style with a single front hand-warmer pocket 2) Full-Zip style with a two-way zipper and two front hand-warmer cargo pockets (The Full-Zip model is the one used in this review)
Machine Washable
Made in Ely, MN U.S.A
Price- $300.00 USD

The Anorak features adjustable draw cords on the waist and hood, as well as an inside zip pocket. The inside of the jacket has a polyester shelter lining, which is suspended from the shoulders to prevent moisture traps. A really nice touch is the hand-warmer cargo pockets, which have a fleece lining on the front (shown in the top left photo below). I found these to be especially handy after working without gloves in frigid weather.

(click to enlarge)

Guide Shell Pants

Features/Specifications:

Constructed from 3-ply nylon with DWR (durable water repellency), with wind flaps inside and outside of leg zips and Velcro tabs at cuffs
Knees and buttocks are reinforced with heavy, waterproof Cordura nylon for durability and comfort while sitting and kneeling.
Shakes off moisture easily and breathes better than Gore-tex under extreme cold conditions
Designed for polar expeditions or other extreme cold adventures
Zip-fly crotch
Two deep side pockets
Removable web belt
Wear over thermal layer or alone
Machine Washable
Made in Ely, MN U.S.A
Price- $235.00

The knees and buttocks of the Guide Pants are reinforced with heavy waterproof Cordura nylon for durability and comfort while sitting and kneeling. They also come with a removable web belt, a zip fly and two deep side pockets. The legs can be unzipped half way up which makes them easy to put on and take off while on the move.

(click to enlarge)

Field Testing the Anorak Shell and Guide Pants

We originally received the Anorak and Guide Pants for testing last February and since that time, Dave and I have worn them on numerous winter treks and cold weather gear testing trips, including a couple of trips on Longs Peak Trail. Even in windchill temperatures down to -30 F, the Anorak and Guide Pants both performed brilliantly. True to Wintergreen's polar expedition heritage, these items kept us warm and dry, and also proved to be durable even after rolling around on rocks, dirt and mud when setting up remote camps.

The Anorak and Guide Pants were large enough to wear multiple layers if needed, while also feeling light and not overly bulky. Truly an excellent design.

Dave sporting the Wintergreen Anorak and Guide Pants at the Longs Peak trailhead last February, getting ready to do some hard-core snow-shoeing up the trail!

Yours truly sitting in a puddle of ice water last March, trying to see if the Cordura reinforcement on the buttocks area was really waterproof. After sitting there and dealing with Dave's bad jokes for 30 mins, the water still didn't leak through.

I found the reinforced knees on the Guide Pants to be particularly useful while kneeling in wet or snowy conditions:

The pockets on the Guide Pants are simple but worked well in the field. We carried all kinds of stuff in them and never had any issues with things coming out or getting snagged.

Conclusion

If I won the lottery tomorrow, and could afford absolutely any type of winter technical shell for bushcraft and winter trekking, I would pick the Wintergreen Anorak and Guide Pants. Considering that these clothes would be responsible for keeping me alive and comfortable in dangerously frigid conditions, and would give many years of service, I think the choice is obvious.

Yes, the $300 price tag on the Anorak (and $235 on the Guide Pants) might seem a bit expensive to some, but considering that many big name Chinese-made winter shells cost upwards of $500 a piece, I think the price is definitely reasonable, especially considering the outstanding quality and performance of this dynamic duo.

"Fantastic" is not a word I've used in a review before, but in this case, I'll make the exception. Simply fantastic, and absolutely recommended if you are serious about cold weather adventures.

5 out of 5 Stars (Highly Recommended)

For more information, visit Wintergreen's website at www.wintergreennorthernwear.com

Fiskars discontinues X5 Hatchet for 2013

2013-03-19T06:30:00.000-06:00

Sadly, Fiskars has decided to discontinue their excellent X5 8" Hatchet for 2013. There is no official word as to the reason why, but I suspect it's because Gerber is releasing the similar-sized Bear Grylls Survival Hatchet next month (Gerber is owned by Fiskars).

The X5 will still be available through existing retailer stocks, but once these stocks are depleted, the X5 will no longer be available. The X5 will continue to be sold in Europe, however.

Longs Peak Trail Winter Backpacking Trip Report

2013-03-16T11:41:00.000-06:00

(NOTE: For background information on this trip, check out my "Backpacking Trip up Longs Peak tomorrow" post first)

Well, I made it home in one piece! Unfortunately, I had to cut my trip short at the end of the second day due to extreme conditions at the tree line, which made it impossible to light my MSR stove to melt snow for drinking water.

Blowing snow was so bad up there that it literally covered the stove by the time I took it out of my pack and put it on the ground. Watch the video at the end of this report and you'll see what I'm talking about!

In case you're wondering, I couldn't start a campfire, because campfires aren't allowed on Longs Peak, and there's very little firewood available at the tree line.

In those harsh conditions, which included tropical storm-force wind gusts and windchill temperatures approaching -21 F during the day, I was rapidly dehydrating, and without the ability to melt snow into drinking water, I had no choice but to beat a hasty retreat back down the trail as night fell.

Day One

(click to enlarge)

My first day involved backpacking up to Goblin's Forest, which is the first available place to camp off the trail, roughly a mile from the trailhead. Luckily, the snow on the trail was compacted down enough that I was able to make the trek without snow shoes. It was here that I would spend my first night.

The view of the trail behind me on the approach to Goblin's Forest

Goblin's Forest camping area

Altimeter reading at the camping area:

The area to the left of trail (shown in the photo below) is where backpackers are allowed to camp overnight. Underestimating the depth of the snow, I merrily tromped into this area looking for a camp site. After just a short distance, I wound up in snow up to my waist!

Luckily, I found a level area with only knee-deep snow, where I could set up camp. I had debated about bringing my avalanche shovel, figuring I could use just my snow shoes to clear camp. In the end I decided to bring the shovel even though it was added weight, and I'm glad I did, because it would have been a lot more work without it.

As I was setting up camp, the wind started to howl, and snow began to blow hard enough to obscure my visibility, so I hurriedly dug out an area to pitch my ParaTipi. Once it was set up (and due to my haste, I didn't set it up as well as I normally would), I managed to fire up my MSR XGK EX stove and make a Mountain House dehydrated meal for dinner before night settled in.

Overnight and into the next morning

After night fell, around 6:30pm, it was too cold to do anything but jump into my sleeping bag. It ended up being a good opportunity to catch up on some sleep, because even though I brought a book, it was just too dang cold to try and read!

(click to enlarge)

Luckily, the North Face Inferno -40 F bag that I brought along to test lived up to its name, or I would have been miserable. Overnight temps approached -20 F with the windchill. I had to leave the flap open on the Paratipi to prevent condensation from forming, since it is a single walled nylon tent, so I definitely felt the full effect of the cold as the wind blew into it.

The Inferno bag was actually warm enough in those temperatures that I had to vent it in the middle of the night, so my guess is that the -40 F rating on it is fairly accurate.

I spent nearly 13 hours inside the bag, getting up when the sun cracked the sky at around 7:30 am. My sleep was fairly restful, though I was awakened a few times when clumps of snow fell from high branches and smacked the Paratipi. Luckily, Kifaru builds their tipis to withstand extreme conditions such as these, and the falling snow didn't affect its integrity in any way.

Gear Selection

I thought I would take a moment to mention the gear I used to function in a subarctic environment without a fire:

CLOTHING

Outer-layer- Wintergreen Northern Wear Anorak Shell and Guide Pants

Main insulation layer- a couple of old fleece liner jackets that I pillaged from beat-up thrift store winter jackets

Mid-layer- Filson Zip-Neck Fleece Top & Ibex Zepher Merino Wool Long Johns

Base Layer Shirt- Ibex Indie Zip-T Merino Wool Shirt

Head protection- Talus Cold Avenger Expedition Balaclava, plus a fleece cap found at a thrift store.

Gloves- Outdoor Research Mt Baker Mitts

Socks- Smartwool Extra Heavy Mountaineering Socks

Eye Protection- Smith Optics goggles for protection in snowy conditions, or Pivothead Video Sunglasses for drier, sunny conditions and to take video clips.

Boots- Danner Raptor GTX

Gear Used

Backpack- Kelty 2012 RedCloud 90

Snow Shoes- MSR Lightning Ascent 30 Snow Shoes

Backpacking Stove- MSR XGK EX Liquid Fuel Stove

Avalanche Shovel- Voile T-Wood Avalanche Shovel

Tent- Kifaru ParaTipi

Ground insulation- 2012 Therm-A-Rest Z-Lite Pad, Therm-A-Rest Pro-Lite Plus Self-Inflating Mattress, and a Grabber Space Tarp

Sleeping Bag- North Face Inferno -40 F Down Sleeping Bag
Headlamp- Princeton Tec "Fred"
Watch- Casio ProTek PRW2500-1 (Titanium)
Signal/Utility Mirror- Coghlan's Acrylic Unbreakable Featherweight Mirror

Food- Mountain House Pro Packs

Knife- Mora/Light My Fire FireKnife

Emergency Matches- UCO Stormproof Matches

Water bottles- Liberty Bottleworks "Straight Up" 32 Ounce Aluminum Water Bottles

Cookware- Snow Peak Kettle #1 for melting snow for drinking water and rehydrating Mountain House food

Spork- American Kami's Titanium Survival Spork

Trekking poles- Mountain Smith (don't know which model, got them on clearance at a local outdoors store)

First Aid- Adventure Medical Kits Weekender Medical Kit

Map- National Geographic Waterproof Topographical Map (Longs Peak/Bear Lake)

Spare Cordage- Lifeview Outdoors Mil-Spec Type 1 Paracord

Portable Weather Instrument/Altimeter- Kestrel 3500

Compass- Suunto
Camera- just my old but reliable Canon digital camera, plus a cheap, no-name tripod that ended up breaking before the trip was over.

Day Two- Trek towards the tree line

After spending the night in Goblin's Forest, It took me a couple of hours to break camp before heading out on the second leg of the journey. Breaking camp on winter excursions takes much longer than during warm weather, since you have to pack up twice as much gear, as well as having to melt snow in order to drink or eat.

Since I'm mentioning gear, I thought I'd also mention one of the most unpleasant aspects of winter backpacking- weight! Though I've done this type of trip many times, traveling up mountain trails with nearly 100 pounds of combined gear (on top of snow) sucks. There's no other way to describe it. I always feel like an overloaded pack mule, but it's necessary to ensure survival and comfort on a solo winter trip.

The trek towards the treeline was really quite beautiful:

The flat area beyond the mountains is where the city of Longmont is located

The approach to the tree line:

At the tree line

Once I got to the tree line, I noticed that the trail had disappeared. It was noticeably colder and the wind had picked up quite a bit. There were also chest-high snow drifts everywhere.

With this extreme change in conditions, I decided to err on the side of caution and not go any further that day, as I wanted plenty of time to make camp by digging out a snow shelter. I found an area where snow had drifted behind a Limber Pine tree and dug out a shelter, with the intention of covering it with a tarp.

By the time I got my shelter ready, the sun was low in the sky, and the conditions starting getting noticeably worse. Winds were gusting at high speeds, and the temperature dropped even lower. Wind-driven snow started covering everything, and even sitting down inside the shelter with my back turned against the wind, snow was still blowing into my nostrils. My gear was coated with several inches within minutes.

I managed to brave the elements long enough to put on my Pivothead Video Sunglasses and capture the following video. The windchill recorded with my Kestrel weather instrument was just shy of -21 F.

(enlarge the video by clicking the Youtube symbol to see the temperature and get the full effect!)

After I took this video, I attempted to hunker down in my shelter and use my MSR stove to melt snow into drinking water, since I was getting pretty dehydrated. The wind then started to blow even harder than what was shown in the video. Snow was blowing so badly that, even behind the shelter, it completely covered my stove by the the time I took it out of my pack, making it impossible to ignite. Snow also started to cover my face and body, to the point where if I had simply relaxed for a few minutes, I would have been coated from head to toe in several inches of snow!

With no ability to make drinking water, dehydration setting in, and nighttime windchill temperatures I estimated would hit -40 to -50 F, it was a virtual death trap.

That's when I made the decision to bail out.

I have been in some very harsh conditions in the mountains before, but this is the first time I felt my life was in danger. The best way I can describe it is, Planet Hoth from "The Empire Strikes Back!"

Despite being a tough trip, I was still able to get some great gear testing done, and as always, you learn something new every time you go out there!

Quick Update

2013-03-14T22:48:00.001-06:00

Hey folks,

I am in the process of getting my Red Cross instructor status renewed in addition to working on a bunch of new material, so I'll be a little slow in posting this week. I am hoping to have a full report on my Longs Peak Winter backpacking trip posted by this weekend though, so keep checking back!

Jason

Tips & Tricks: An easy way to apply beeswax to your axe handles

2013-03-11T22:28:00.000-06:00

I've experimented with different ways to apply beeswax to an axe handle, including trying suggestions from the internet to use a double boiler or paint thinner to dissolve the wax so it can be applied with a brush. I've found neither of these methods to be particularly useful.

With the double boiler method, the beeswax starts to cool as soon as the brush is withdrawn from the melted solution. This makes it difficult to apply before it hardens, leading to an overly thick, uneven coating on the handle.

Using paint thinner to dissolve beeswax is also difficult, since beeswax resists melting using even the strongest paint thinners, such as Naphtha, Acetone, Turpentine and Mineral Spirits. In fact, I left some small pieces of beeswax inside jars of both Naphtha and Turpentine for over a week, and the beeswax only partially melted!

I've found a method that I believe is easier and more effective.

How to Apply Beeswax to Your Axe Handle

MATERIALS NEEDED:

A block of beeswax (available online or in hobby/craft stores)
Turpentine (available at any hardware store)
Rubber Gloves (I am shown in the photos wearing wool gloves, since this was photographed outside in single digit temperatures for demonstration purposes. When you're actually performing this task, make sure to wear protective rubber gloves, since Turpentine is toxic)
Clean Rag (made of soft cotton, like a piece of common terry cloth towel found in most households).

Directions

Apply a couple of dabs of Turpentine to a clean rag:

Rub the Turpentine-soaked rag on the surface of the beeswax block a couple of times:

Rub the rag back and forth on your axe handle, covering one small area at a time. You will need to re-wet your rag with a few dabs of Turpentine and beeswax occasionally as you coat the entire handle.

NOTE: Make sure to apply beeswax AFTER the handle has been treated with Linseed Oil, since Turpentine can dry out the wood without a Linseed Oil barrier to protect it.

Once the Turpentine evaporates from the beeswax, it will leave a thin, waterproof coating, making the handle more resistant to the elements.

SPONSOR NOTE: The Wetterlings Backcountry Axe used in this article was graciously donated to us by SportHansa in Longmont, Colorado. If you enjoyed this write-up, please show your support by visiting Sport Hansa's online store. Thank you!

"Made in the USA" Review: Ontario RD Hawk II

2013-03-06T07:54:00.000-07:00

Last summer, Ontario Knives sent Dave and I a couple of RD Hawk II's to try out. Even though the RD is primarily a tactical/breaching tool, they asked us to find out if it might have any legitimate use as a woods or wilderness survival tool.

I was up front in telling Ontario that the tactical-oriented RD might not do so well out in the bush, but Ontario insisted that they were ok with that. They said they wanted to find out how it might function if it were the only tool someone had in a wilderness survival situation. Since this looked like an interesting project, and knowing Ontario's heritage and overall quality, I decided to give it a shot.

RD Hawk Features/Specs

Designed to be a tactical and breaching weapon for soldiers, the RD Hawk II is certainly not a typical looking hatchet or tomahawk.

While one end does have a traditional hatchet bit, the other side, which on most hatchets would be the place for a poll, has instead a sharp spike, used to penetrate the body armor of an enemy combatant. I was curious to see if there was a wilderness use for this spike, as you'll see in the field testing below.

The RD Hawk is constructed from a solid piece of 1/4" 1075 steel, which has a baked on powder coating finish. The steel is a little on the softer side in order to emphasize toughness over absolute edge-holding, coming in at 53-55RC, roughly the same as most Council Tool axes. Overall length is 12.4", with a cutting edge surface of 3.6".

The handle scales are made from Canvas Micarta. The RD Hawk weighs in at 28 ounces without the sheath, 32 ounces with the sheath.

Sheath

The RD Hawk comes with a very nice cordura-nylon sheath, which I found to be both functional and durable. It allows secure belt carry as well as easy withdrawal and replacement.

Comparison Shots

The RD Hawk next to a Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet:

FIELD TESTING

As mentioned at the beginning of this review, our task was to find out if the RD Hawk had any viable uses in a wilderness situation. We decided to try it in the following four categories; 1) Chopping 2) Splitting 3) Fine Carving and 4) Uses for the spike.

Chopping

Due to the steep grind angle and thickness of the edge, which is made to be stronger for breaching purposes, the RD Hawk turned out to be a poor chopper considering its weight. The Gransfors Bruks Wildlife Hatchet, though weighing 7 ounces less (pictured on the left in the photo below), chopped much more efficiently than the heavier RD Hawk (right).

(click to enlarge)

The canvas micarta handle on the RD Hawk was reasonably comfortable during chopping, and felt similar to the handles on Ontario's Randall Adventure Training (RAT) series of knives.

Splitting

I was able to split 3-4" pine logs with the RD Hawk relatively easy.

Success!

Fine Carving Tasks

I was able to rough out a tent stake without too much trouble, but the thickness and grind angle of the edge made other fine tasks more difficult than they were worth. The steel section that runs between the handle and the hatchet head is also very uncomfortable to choke up on, adding to the grim prospect of using the RD to make feather sticks, etc.

Uses for the Spike

Surprisingly, the spike turned out to be more useful than I thought it would. It can used as an ice pick in the winter, as an awl to punch holes in leather or wood, or as a log puller, as shown below:

Conclusion

Due to the steep grind and thickness of the edge, the RD Hawk performed poorly in both chopping and fine carving tasks. The steel handle just below the head is uncomfortable to choke up on, which hinders its ability to make feathersticks or do other fine work.

On the plus side, the RD was able to split wood effectively as well as rough out crude tent stakes. The spike was actually a surprise, in that it could be used as an ice pick, awl and log puller.

I was curious to see how the RD would perform if I spent some time re-profiling the edge with a belt sander into a thinner convexed edge. After about an hour, I got the edge to look like this:

The difference in chopping ability was immediate and dramatic. During some off-camera chopping tests, the RD actually out-chopped the Gransfors Wildlife Hatchet, throwing large chips in the process.

If you have access to a belt sander and have some skill in profiling axes, this might be an option if you'd like your RD Hawk to perform better in a wilderness environment.

So what's the verdict? Though I can't recommend the RD Hawk as a bushcraft tool, it would function reasonably enough in a survival situation to build a shelter, split kindling or make tent stakes. The spike also comes in handy as an awl or to drag firewood as a log puller, and during winter, can be used as an ice pick. It also features Ontario's typical high quality durable construction, and is made in the good ol' USA.

For more information, visit Ontario Knives at www.ontarioknife.com/catalog/item/231

TONIGHT at 9PM EST: New Dual Survival episode comes to Rocky Mountain Bushcraft's home turf

2013-03-05T11:17:00.000-07:00

On tonight's new Dual Survival episode, Cody and Joe will be trying to survive right smack in the middle of Rocky Mountain Bushcraft territory- the mountains of Colorado! The episode, titled "Rocky Mountain High," is described on Discovery Channel's episode guide as:

"Stranded at over 9,000 feet above sea level in the snow-covered Rocky Mountains of Colorado, Cody and Joe battle temperatures of negative twenty degrees Fahrenheit in an effort to fight off hypothermia, and stay alive long enough to get spotted by passing aircraft."

I will be very curious to see what they do to survive. The biggest enemy in the Colorado Rockies is wind. In many areas of the high country, windstorms of 30-60mph can rage for weeks on end, and gusts can be very extreme.

The town that's closest to us clocked an incredible 109mph wind gust last year, and 110mph the year prior, just to give you an idea. Longs Peak, where I just did a winter backpacking trip, has recorded wind gusts of 200mph at the summit.

This wind is dangerous and will cause hypothermia quickly. It also makes shelter construction more difficult, since it can easily blow down a shelter that's not extremely well constructed. It can also blow away cold weather survival gear like your cap and mitts if you take them off and forget to anchor them down.

I'm also curious to see if they use fatwood to start an emergency fire like we outlined in our "Wilderness Survival: An easy way to find Fatwood in the Rockies and Beyond...." article, or utilize a Space Tarp, which in my experience has kept me warm in temperatures down to -30 F, when combined with a small fire and some pine boughs for ground insulation to sit on.

Either way, it should be an interesting show!

Longs Peak trip quick update

2013-03-04T17:35:00.000-07:00

Just a quick update- I am working on a full trip report and it should be up within the next few days. I have been juggling this report in between several major write-ups, so there will be lots of juicy new articles coming soon!

Cheers!

Jason

Wilderness Survival: Use a sharp rock, broken glass or a seashell to strike your firesteel in an emergency situation

2013-02-25T23:30:00.000-07:00

If you've lost the steel striker for your firesteel and need to start a fire, don't panic. Just look on the ground for a piece of common, silica-based rock, such as quartzite (generally the easiest to find), quartz, chalcedony, obsidian, agate, chert, or jasper and use it to strike your firesteel instead. You can also use broken glass or ceramic pottery in the same manner (be sure to protect your hands if possible).

If you're by the ocean, look for dead seashells. Here is a video from one of our readers, who was inspired by this article to try a dead clam shell (special thanks to Cattledog for this video). It works amazingly well!

Tip for using a rock

You might get lucky and find a rock that is already sharp, or, you might have to break it up with a larger rock to get a piece with a sharp edge. This same principle would also apply to unbroken glass or ceramic.

The piece of quartzite shown in the photo at the beginning of this article was broken by a bigger rock to get pieces with a sharp edge.

Once you have a sharp piece, just use it like you would use a steel striker to ignite your tinder:

Backpacking trip up Longs Peak tomorrow

2013-02-25T22:38:00.000-07:00

Come tomorrow morning, I'm going to attempt to backpack to the boulder field near the top of Longs Peak. It will be a strenuous trip, especially considering the amount of heavy winter gear I will need to carry (6 miles uphill on snow, carrying roughly 60-80 pounds), so I'm not sure if I will make it all the way, but I'm definitely going to try! I'm going to take my camera and a cool new toy- a pair of Pivothead video sunglasses, so I will be sure to record as much of the trip as possible.

According to the weather forecast, windchill temperatures could be as low as -25 degrees F, which will be perfect for testing out a North Face Inferno -40 Degree Down Sleeping Bag I'm reviewing. I expect the trip to take roughly 3 days, less if I have to turn back because of low visibility/blowing snow.

I am making the trip alone, which can be dangerous this time of year, but it is a well patrolled trail, and I will have plenty of cold weather gear with me. Every year, an average of two people die attempting to hike, backpack, or summit Longs Peak, so it can definitely be an extreme environment, but that's what also makes it a great place to test gear. Plus, it's just an extraordinarily beautiful place to backpack.

UPDATE: You can check out the full trip report here