This Too Is Main

Awesome Bike Video

2012-02-07T14:57:00.003-05:00

This is pretty cool. A short film about how Gazelle built bikes back in the day. Way back in the day! Watch for tips on cold setting your frame and on how to get a free zeppelin ride.

Gazelle 1925 from Gazelle Bicycles Australia on Vimeo.

Where Everything is Made

2012-01-23T21:51:00.001-05:00

I just listened to an excellent episode of This American Life on my car trip to DC. It was about Apple products and basically the working conditions in China. I am aware of much of what they had to say but somehow the presentation of it helped it to have a more profound effect on me.

Take a listen

http://www.thisamericanlife.org/radio-archives/episode/454/mr-daisey-and-the-apple-factory

And let me know what you think. I am curious what your initial reaction was and if it prompted you to make any changes in your life...to be honest I am thinking about making a few.

Drum Roll Please.....

2012-01-19T02:13:00.001-05:00

Well I have spent a lot of time thinking of the last few weeks (and really much longer) trying to figure out what's next. I have been able to put a few things together and I officially have some sense as to what the next nine or so months are going to look like...so here goes:

One of my main goals in taking this "sabbatical" was to spend more time with family and I have been able to do just that. I have seen each of my siblings and their families along with getting some good quality time with each of my parents. I have also been able to spend some time with aunts and uncles and my grandma which has been wonderful. There isn't anything that can replace late night dance parties with Amelia, seeing a dinner and movie with my grandma, playing at the science museum with Rosie and Issac, watching State games with Collin, and various other experiences that I often miss living so far away.

January/February
I am continuing to spend time with family and take a two week spin to Washington, DC and Philadelphia to visit some great friends and probably paint a table or two with my friend Mali. I am also going to attend some family bridal showers and potentially take a quick trip up north to visit my sister.

March
My cousin, Lev, is getting married in Israel in March and I couldn't miss this opportunity to be a part of his wedding. I am joining my Aunt Kathleen, Uncle Mark, cousin Eva and her husband Jamison to see Lev get married and participate in the festivities. He is getting married in Jerusalem on March 19th in a traditional Orthodox Jewish wedding. I am very excited to go and also to see the country. My good friend, Janet, will be joining me for the trip. Janet is a friend of mine from the Lasallian Volunteers program. She volunteered in NYC while I was in Philadelphia and we got to know each other very well. We have been talking about traveling together for awhile now and this all came together. We will be visiting Tel Aviv, Jerusalem, Nazareth, Bethlehem and many other place...and hopefully go to Jordan as well.

April
Janet and I will be in Israel for about two and a half weeks and then we fly to Paris and will make our way to Taize. Taize is an ecumenical community in France that welcomes people from all over the world year round to experience prayer and communion with God. Ever since I was introduced to Taize prayer, I have always wanted to visit the actual community in France...and I am finally getting the opportunity. Janet and I will be there for at least a week and potentially two. I will celebrate my 30th birthday in France which is kind of exciting. If you would like to learn more about the community and what they are about, you can check out their website here: http://www.taize.fr/en. I have included a video from their website at the bottom of this post which describes more about the community.

Late April/May through September/October
For at least a year now but probably longer, I have been thinking about moving closer to home and in particular Detroit. I told someone recently I felt Michigan and specifically Detroit whispering my name if that makes any sense. Combined with my Uncle Matt and my Grandma Lois passing away in the past year, I felt a need to be closer to home...that I was missing too much with my family and life is quite short sometimes. With all these thoughts in mind, I meticulously started following articles and blogs about things happening in Detroit and let the idea seep deeper into my soul. I recently visited Eva and Jamison for a few days in the city to explore and get a sense of the place. I was born in Detroit but have never really felt like it was home.

During my visit, I met with the owner of a local bike shop in the city and was offered a job working for them starting in mid April. I will work in the shop and help lead tours around the city from late April until they close in October. It is really a perfect opportunity for my to explore the city, get to know some people and really decide if I would like to make a more permanent move there. Only time will tell.

None of this is out of the blue although it might seem like it to some of the folks who read this. I have been thinking about moving to Detroit and this spring trip for awhile now and it all just came together in the past seven days. I have been waiting to post until I knew more specifics. I am both excited and nervous for the next part of this year but mostly excited. I get to have more dance parties with Amelia, watch more state games with Collin, catch a few more movies and figure out of me and Detroit are a good fit. It is really the first time in a long time that I felt these were the right moves and decisions...I mean I could totally be wrong and hate the bike shop and Detroit, but I will never know until I experience it. And I am pretty sure I will regret it if I never give it a chance.

More to come later and for sure I will try and blog while I am in Israel and France. On a side note, Janet and I have a layover in Romania...I am going to try and count it as visiting the country!

Here is the Taize Video:

Life at Taizé from Taize on Vimeo.

Worth the Watch

2012-01-11T01:24:00.000-05:00

You might be wondering what I am up to and doing next...well I don't even know yet. So instead of an update...you are being sent an incredibly cool video I came across online. I seriously would love to do a project like this.

http://blog.onbeing.org/post/15630698929/jeff-harris-4-748-self-portraits-and-counting-by

It is a neat video but also sad and strangely uplifting too.

Finally the Pictures

2012-01-02T14:04:00.000-05:00

Well I finally went through my photos. Deleted some, put captions on others and tried to narrow it down...there are still a ton but hopefully you will enjoy them. If you are only interested in Machu Picchu photos they start about half way through. I tried to put notes explaining most of the photos.

Link to all of the photos from the trip:
https://picasaweb.google.com/mari.anzicek/SouthAmerica?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCM6az4vo1_iatgE&feat=directlink

Final Thoughts/Reflections/Information I missed posting about on the Trip

Spanish

I relied too much on Bridget although she was great. I really should have spent more time learning some basic Spanish before I left. I learned quite a bit by the time I left but it would have made the whole trip a lot easier for me.

Transportation

You get used to hopping in cars quickly, using no seat belts and praying for your life rather frequently. There were only a few close calls but I think after awhile you get desensitized to it. I have really appreciated putting my seat belt on and being in control of the car since I have been back.

Using the Bathroom

It is like going to the bathroom anywhere else except you have to bring your own toilet paper, throw it away in the trash can and you don't often have a toilet seat. I only had to use a squatty toilet once. There were also a lot of rustic toilets which you had to dump water down to flush. Again there was nothing sweeter than walking into the bathroom in the Miami airport, sitting down without second guessing, having toilet paper provided for me and being able to flush with a push of a handle. Also, there was hand soap which is often lacking in bathrooms all over in Bolivia and Peru. Needless to say I used a lot of hand sanitizer while I was gone.

Companions

We were incredibly lucky and got partnered with some great companions on our tours. In the Salar, Colca Canyon Trek and our bicycle tour, we met people from all over the world traveling for varying lengths of time. We shared great stories, laughed until we cried and learned a lot about where everyone was from. I am confident in saying I feel comfortable visiting these folks in their hometown.

The Incas

I am still so amazed by everything the Incas accomplished. My mom gave me the book "Turn Right at Machu Picchu" for Christmas. I just finished reading it and realized we missed so much in our visit. Don't get me wrong. We saw a lot but there is just so much there. If I ever go again, I would do one of the various Inca Trail hikes. Getting off the main trails is essential to seeing some of the other ruins...it also costs a lot though. We made the right decision for rainy season and who knows maybe I will get another chance in the future.

Preparation

I would have done a little more research ahead of time. We did a lot from the seat of our pants and luckily got to see so much. It helped that we were not traveling during the busy season so we didn't have to plan too far ahead of time. We also ran into lots of people who helped us out and friends who had traveled before who gave us some great advice. I just wish I would have read up on the Incas a little more. Now I am just appreciating it more after the fact.

Overall, it was great trip. I would travel with Bridget again in a second. We had an amazing time and saw and experienced so much. I am inspired to learn more Spanish and about the cultures we visited. I hope everyone gets a chance to travel. If not out of the country, then around our beautiful country as well.

Change of Pace

2012-01-02T00:06:00.002-05:00

I realized at some point that I never posted my final reflection from the bike ride this summer or any of our awesome photos. I know I am fresh of coming back from Bolivia and Peru but here is my reflection from this summer along with some links to photos.

I am working on going through the Bolivia and Peru photos so hopefully those will be posted shortly. Thanks for reading.

Summer Reflection
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/21363323/LVs%20Ride%20-%20Personal%20Thank%20You%20Letter.pdf

Summer Photos (Some of the best)
https://plus.google.com/photos/104120906655696580108/albums/5649751333728689137?authkey=COHm9rn3iqH19AE

Slideshow

2011-12-26T17:57:00.000-05:00

If you close to Brighton, MI and available on Friday night, you are invited to a slideshow and storytelling event about my trip this Friday, December 30th. My dad has offered to host at his house in Brighton.

We will gather around 6:30pm and start the slideshow around 7pm. It won't be more than an hour maybe less. My friend Bridget and I are going to attempt to have some authentic Bolivian/Peruvian snacks and drinks so we can bring the experience of South America here....sorry no we will not be serving guinea pig.

If you are interested in coming, please let me know by Thursday so we can plan accordingly for snacks and seating space. You can RSVP at my email address: anzicek@gmail.com.

When you RSVP, I will send my dad's address along to you. If you aren't able to make it, I will post photos and descriptions of them on my blog.

Merry Christmas,

Mari

A Week in Lima

2011-12-23T23:24:00.001-05:00

After my last post, you might think I wanted to call it quits. Well I did for about an hour but I got over it. Also it helped that Bridget and I left for Lima the next morning.

We spent the last five days in Lima and I am writing this in my last few hours before I head to the airport. Lima was for me a breath of fresh air, a little feel of home and well a pleasant surprise.

I guess I was expecting Lima to be more of the same. Basically similar to the other towns we visited but just bigger. I found that it was unlike any city we visited yet. Coming into the city by bus literally felt like driving into Chicago. Bridget and I have both lived in Chicago and well it felt a little like coming home.

They have a great Metro bus system that runs efficiently through town and right down the highway...kind of like the red line. Their version of Lake Shore Drive is a little more spectacular because it is the Pacific Ocean. I could go on but just know this city is pretty spectacular.

Bridget and I explored the museums taking in a few great art exhibits. We also took a bike tour of the neighborhoods San Isidro and Miraflores. They are very affluent neighborhoods and very touristy. There is even a mall on the Oceanside cliff with a TGI Fridays and a Starbucks. It made me a little sick to see but you can't get away from it there.

Our bike tour was a lot of fun. We had a great guide and companions. Two of the other girls on our tour had just arrived in Lima that morning at two am. They flew in from Boston after finishing their final exams and graduating from college. Talk about excited.

They were a lot of fun though and joined us after the tour for a trip to the Magic Fountains. I am not exactly sure what the name of this park is but I know magic and fountains is in the title. The park actually holds the worlds record for most fountains or something like that. There are 12 in all. They light them up and the center fountain has a special light and music show every hour. I would have to say...and I mean this seriously...I found it to be magical.

We really just took it easy for the week and enjoyed the people watching, food, and ice cream. There is literally an ice cream stand every ten feet here. My favorite two scoop option is limon and maracuya. Not sure how to describe the latter flavor other than it is awesome.

Bridget finally ate ceviche. It is basically raw seafood that is covered in lemon and lime juice and somehow the combination of acids cooks the food. It looked gross to me but Bridget loved it. While we were eating this meal, there was a gentleman about our age sitting at the next table. I had a great view of him and watched as he ate his meal and then proceeded to start sweating profusely. His nose was running and literally I could see the sweat dripping off his face. He asked the server for more napkins and soaked quite a few. After he left we asked the waitress if his meal was spicy and she said yes very and we all had a little chuckle over it.

Bridget left yesterday and I have spent my time walking along the ocean, visiting a museum with an exhibit about the terrorist attacks the country suffered in the 80s and 90s and taking in a free concert in the plaza.

The exhibit about the terrorist attacks was quite moving. I am not going to do the history justice but in a nutshell an internal terrorist group gained power in the 80s and proceeded to bomb and kill thousands of people. The group was called Shining Path and they were a communist group started by an ex university professor. Again I don't understand all the dynamics at play in the conflict but ultimately almost 70,000 people died. Their deaths were caused by both the Shining Path and military action by the Peruvian government. It was an incredibly dark time in the history of Peru. This exhibit was a product of The Truth and Reconciliation Commission which was started after the conflict ended.

I ended my day at the Plaza for a free concert of traditional Peruvian music. It was a great show and the president of Peru was in attendance.

I have really loved my time in Lima and it was a great end to our trip. Oh and one more note. We stayed at a hostel that my friend Sara stayed at and this place is a zoo...literally. It has four floors and I am convinced there are more hidden that I just haven't found yet. You get breakfast on the third floor where it is an open patio. On this floor there are many rooms and no less than two talking parrots, a puppy, a dog, 6 parakeets, two huge turtles, a cat, and a peacock. I think it is an old mansion or something. It is basically a labyrinth with many floors and never ending rooms. Also there are tons of classical paintings all over the walls and statues and busts of apparently famous folks. The place might be crazy but it was a great stop. The hostel staff were so nice and made our stay so pleasant...although I think they might be a little crazy too. The man who does maintenance wears a paper hat like a sailor's hat when he works. Oh and one of the turtles sleeps in the bathroom next to the toilet.

Like I said Lima was very fun. If you ever come to visit here, I strongly recommend the maracuya and limon ice cream combination.

Nazca....take it or leave it

2011-12-22T14:55:00.002-05:00

This will be short as I have much to say about Nazca but it isn´t very nice. I well actually we probably had our lowest moment of the trip in Nazca. I am still processing it but I will give you the short version.

You must remember that no matter where you travel you are pretty much always gettting ripped off. The goal is to minimize how much you are getting ripped off as much as possible. What do I mean by this? Well if you aren`t from a place, you don´t tend to know the expectations when purchasing something....especially if prices aren´t posted...and they are never posted. This means everytime you take a taxi, buy something, eat, etc. you almost always have to ask the price, be willing to negotiate and eventually know you are probably still paying more than the locals. We do our best asking hostel staff and others the normal price but you can´t ask them about everything.

There are some exceptions...for instance...restaurants tend to have their menus and prices posted. Street vendors do not. Hostels have their prices posted most of the time. Museums have their prices posted. Tours companies, street vendors, taxi drivers and many more do not have their prices posted...so they can automatically quote you a higher price and eventually when you negotiate to a lower price you are probably still paying more than the locals. It is highly frustrating but again the goal is to minimize as much as possible how much you are overpaying.

I have a few rules with buying good and services:

Go in knowing how much you are willing to pay and stick with that price
Stand your ground
Act confident
Be willing to negotiate
Walk away the moment you feel uncomfortable or feel like you are getting swindled
Stay in the open with other people tourists or locals
Get it in writing

Those are my general rules....and you must know that before I tell you the following story I pretty much broke all of those rules...don´t worry we are fine...just spent too much money.

Again the short version...we arrived in Nazca early on an overnight bus. We were tired and had a plan. Go to our hostel, rest, eat and then go shopping for a flight over the Nazca lines for the next morning...the plan was then to see the lines and leave Nazca the following day. These flights are normally expensive but we talked to another tourist and got a ballpark figure for how much she paid so we knew what to expect. Immediately we deviated from our plan. We got a taxi to our hostel and the driver started talking about how today was great was a great weather day to see the lines....no shit every day is a great weather day to see the lines...I know this now but in my dazed overnight bus haze I didn´t disagree.

They took us to our hotel and offered to take us to a place that sold flights over the lines. We checked in and immediately deviated from the plan...we should have rested, we should have said no....waited until the next day to get a flight. But we didn´t. Long story short we went to their store, bought a flight and waited for the taxi driver. He showed up, took us to the airport and we got set up for our flight.

We were in a 6 seater airplane with two pilots and two tourists from the Netherlands. It was then that we realized we had been ripped off...the couple flying with us paid 70 soles less than us...which is really only $26 US dollars but this made me so so angry. I was pissed that we deviated from our plan and pissed at myself for letting it happen. I knew when we were buying the flights that I was uncomfortable with the situation, what we were paying and a few other things but I didn´t say anything...I was frustrated and tired and letting it cloud my judgement.

I was so frustrated and I really tried not to let my angry get in the way of enjoying the flight and seeing the actually way cool Nazca lines. The flight was short but very cool. We got out of the airport and our taxi driver was waiting for us to take us back to the hotel.

I should probably tell you what was included with our flight package....transportation to and from the airport via taxi, the flight, pilots, etc...the basics. Well on our way out of the airport, there was a 3 Soles exit fee per car. Our taxi driver pulled up and looked back at up and said 3 Soles. Pardon my language here but I literally flipped my lid. I knew they had already charged us too much for the flight (again not too much in US Dollars but it is the principal here) and now this dick of a taxi driver was asking for 3 Soles that he should have paid and was essentially in our contract with the flight company. Again only 3 soles which is basically 1 dollar but I was so livid.

I started weighing my options. I could get out of the taxi and walk to our hostel. I decided against that because my feet had some blisters from our hike in the canyon from the day before and I didn´t know how to get to the hostel from the airport. I thought about telling him to f&$@ off and sit there until he paid but I figured we probably wouldn´t make it anywhere. I finally gave in but made absolutely sure he knew I was extremely pissed off...again not that that did anything but it made me feel better.

Long story short...the lines were cool. I was probably too pissed off to enjoy them. And don´t ever ever break the rules...you make them for a reason so you should follow them. In the long run you are happier, save more money and enjoy yourself more.

I learn more about myself every time I travel and this time was no exception...Bridget and I would both agree this was a major learning experience for both of us. The bigger problem for me is I don´t speak Spanish so I have very little ability to do the negotiating. Bridget did a great job but again we just didn´t follow our plan...trust me we laugh about this now but it was a super rough day for both of us.

Mental note for me for the future and anyone else traveling...do yourself a massive favor and take just one language class before you go....it will make you so much happier. Again sorry for the language....I was hoping to convey the emotion of the situation.

And We Are Down To One

2011-12-22T14:26:00.000-05:00

Well Bridget just got in the taxi to head back to the states. I have about 36 hours on my own here. I am feeling really confident and I know the basics so communciation isn´t a problem as of yet. We also set up my taxi for Saturday morning so I don´t have to worry about that. I am feeling good. The plan for the next two days is to take it easy, visit one more museum, and spent the afternoon at the ocean tomorrow.

A little catching up to do for all of you. We left Cuzco and headed to Arequipa. It is a mid size town about 9 hours from Cuzco. The main attraction there is two huge canyons which are both twice the depth of the Grand Canyon. We wanted to spend one day in the city and then do a two day hike in the Canyons.

We took an overnight bus from Cuzco which I mentioned previously...the one that I was completely nauseous on. We arrrived and found a great hostel that took us in even though we arrived very early in the morning. We stowed our bags and walked around the city trying to find a reputable tour company to do our hike with. There are TONS....and they are all selling the same product so it is really hard to tell them apart or have a sense if one is better than the other. Our tour book recommended a few but they were either not open or had moved locations and we couldn´t find them. This is normally fine but it had been happening to us all over Peru and Bolivia and it finally got to me. I got extremely frustrated and annoyed and basically gave up. Bridget saw me at my worst. I basically became super grumpy and moody and refused to make a decision.

We ended up just walking into the nearest tour company we could find and buying a tour within in 10 minutes and walking out. Most would think this was a rushed decision and I might normally agree but I was so frustrated at this point I didn´t care if we ended up going on Donkeys and eating mush. Little did we know that we picked by chance an excellent tour company with a great guide but we were also gifted with great companions.

Our tour was a two day one night trek and we were picked up at 3am the following morning. Why so early...well they spend the morning driving to the canyon so you can arrive around 9am to do the hike. Our guide picked us and the rest of our companions up and by 4am we were on our way. Our guide, Sandro, seemed full of energy and maybe even a little crazy but he was a ton of fun. We stopped at a condor viewing point in the morning...I saw some birds from far away but I can´t honestly say they were condors...they might have been.

We started hiking around 9am at the top of the canyon. Our group consisted of 8 people total. Sandro, Bridget, Me, Anna from the UK, Martin from Ireland, Timmo from the Netherlands, Ping from Singapore and a guy from Canada. This is terrible but everytime he said he name literally nobody could understand him. I thought he said Pierre so I am going with it. We had great conversations down the canyon and the views were spectacular...really somne of the most incredible scenery I have ever taken in. We finally made it to the bottom of the canyon a little after noon and I desperately needed a snack. I had some leftover pizza from my dinner the night before that I had stuck in my bag. It was wrapped in aluminum foil and plastic so it was nice and warm...I shared it with anyone else brave enough to eat it.

We made our way to lunch which was prepared in a local family´s home. By this time our group was getting to know each other very well and had some great laughs over lunch about stealing toilet paper from the hostels and my almost getting bit by a dog...might not sound funny but trust me when telling the story it is hysterical...and no I didn´t get bit but it was awfully close and I was ready to head to the hospital for a rabies shot.

We finished the rest of the hike through a light afternoon rain. Sandro pointed out native plants and their uses and even a bacteria that grows on a Cactus that is used to dye material red. He crushed it up and gave us all paint on our faces. We stayed the night in what they called an Oasis...it is really just mud huts with thatched roofs and windows and they built pools all around the place...the pools are fed with water right from the water falls and are surprisingly comfortable. We all went swimming mostly to wash the grime from the days hike off.

We enjoyed a nice dinner together and then had an early night because well there was no electricity and we were started the hike back up the canyon at 5am the next day. Bridget and I found quite a few spiders in our room so I slept literally the whole night with my head under the covers. It was hot and uncomfortable but I felt better.

We started the next morning bright and early to get up the canyon. I totally underestimated this hike. It was probably over 1000 meters of hiking basically straight up. By 20 minutes in I was compltely wet with sweat and having a hard time breathing. Bridget and I stopped probably two or three times for breaks on the way up but we for sure slowed down the farther we went up. A few people from other groups took the ¨taxi¨up which is basically a donkey...and man can those suckers move up the trail quickly. We are talking about really uneven ground with big rocks and those donkeys sailed up the mountain.

I was probably about 20 minutes from the top when I ran into a man who was a local from the village at the bottom. We started talking and he said he does the hike regulary and it never fucking gets easier...those were his words exactly....I laughed out loud and probably cried a little on the inside. Shortly after that another local man from the village literally...and I mean literally ran right by me and he wasn´t breathing heavy at all. I guess that is the benefit of growing up at high elevation at the bottom of a canyon.

I finally made it to the top where two of my group members were already waiting. They gave me a hearty cheer and Bridget arrived probably 5 minutes after me. It took us just over two hours to get to the top and it wasn´t easy. I was very sweaty and sore...seriously I wasn´t sure my legs could carry me another foot. The rest of our group arrived in the next 15 minutes and we all celebrated our victory together with photos. I honestly loved this group of people. We had a great time together and well they were great hikers because they were all fresh off the Inca trail. I was very impressed with all of them.

We finished out the rest of the day viewing the canyon by van, visiting a beautiful hot springs and heading back to Arequipa. Our van driver was insane so I put on my seatbelt and prayed for safety....I have had some crazy drivers here but he was by far the worst.

The Colca Canyon Trek (sorry that was the name of the canyon) was amazing. The trek itself was great but really our companions really made it a wonderful trip. We all exchanged information at the end of the tour and honestly I would feel totally comfortable visiting them all at some point. Besides the couple from the UK and Ireland are triathletes and do Ironmans. And Timmo and Ping have run marathons...it was really quite odd that our group was full of a bunch of long distance athletes. Anna was the only one not to have run a marathon but she had plans to do an Ironman this coming year.

From Arequipa we headed to Nazca and onto Lima...which I will post about later.....

Leaving Cuczo

2011-12-18T11:06:00.001-05:00

We are in Nasca, Peru now and headed to Lima today. We will spend our last few days of the trip there before flying back home for Christmas.

A lot has happened since my last post. We headed to Arequipa after leaving Cuzco. Our last day in Cuzco, we spent visiting the last ruins and museums in the city we didn't get to before visiting Machu Picchu. We visited the ruins right in Cuzco called Sacsaywaman. They were immense and pretty incredible. The boulders they used for building were twice as tall as me and perfectly fit together. I am continually amazed by what the Inca accomplished with what we would consider primitive building tools and materials.

We visited the convent of Saint Dominic which turned out to be fantastic. It is built on Inca ruins and they have built the new building around the ruins. They also had some amazing contemporary art displayed from Peruvian artists. It was a great treasure to stumble upon this museum.

We also stopped at a museum that was created to display the artwork of Andean children. We went on a whim and it was by far my favorite stop in Cuzco. A woman started a non profit in the early 90s to reach out to young children in the high mountains bringing them art lessons and for many their first experiences with art or even holding a paint brush. The museum displayed their artwork and also explained the art lessons conducted with the kids. In the high Andes most of the children only speak Quechua. So the instructors have to be fluent in the language and also be able to teach art. The artwork displayed was really quite incredible. We weren't allowed to take photos or buy any of the pieces otherwise I would have walked away with a ton of it. To gain access to the villages they promise the families not to sell or profit from the artwork in anyway. I will be sure to look up the name of the museum and include it in a later post. I thought my friend Sara and cousin Eva would enjoy it most.

We finished the day at the church of Saint Dominic which opened in the evening. I was mostly drawn there by the paintings of Andean children as angels. They were awesome. I would have taken photos but it wasn't allowed.

We walked to our bus station and headed out on our first overnight bus trip. I am normally fine in moving vehicles but something about this bus made me incredibly nauseous. By about thirty minutes in I was feeling terrible and trying to determine all the possible options were I actually to get sick. It was so bad that when Bridget got her Inca Kola to drink I told her to keep the top on. The smell of it was making me feel worse. For those of you who aren't familiar, Inca Kola is a soft drink here in Peru and it kind of tastes like bubble gum. It actually outsells Coca Cola and Pepsi here. I actually like it when I am not feeling terrible. I eventually felt better and made it through the night.

We arrived in Arequipa and spent a few days there but that is a story for another time. More to come soon especially because I just figured out how to blog from my iTouch.

Machu Picchu

2011-12-12T21:43:00.003-05:00

We have come and gone from Machu Picchu and it was really just incredible. I am not sure I have the words to express how beautiful and really breathtaking it is. We left Cuzco on Saturday morning by van and arrived in Ollantaytambo. Called Ollanta by the locals it is about a 2 hour train ride from Aquas Calientes which is the town at the footsteps of Machu Picchu (referred to as MP from here on out).

We ate lunch at a fabulous NGO cafe in Ollanta and caught out train to Aquas Calientes. We planned to hike up a mountain with a view of MP but about halfway up the trail there was a system of ladders in complete disrepair...more experienced climbers than us would have kept going but Bridget and I turned back. We had dinner at a fantastic restaurant in the town and headed back to our cell like hostel for the night. I am not joking about it being a cell. We went bare bones on price to get to MP taking the cheapest route possible which included sleeping in this dump. I joked with some other travelers we met along the way that we were at least hoping for some straw mattresses. We had actual mattresses but not much more...but in Aquas you can´t beat the price we paid...it is a town made for tourism so you have to deal with the prices that come with it.

I slept mostly okay minus one terrible dream about our room that I woke up too and thanked god it was time to get up because I didn´t want to go back to sleep. Bridget slept with her passport and money...just to give you a sense of this place. We woke up at 5am to get ready and get on the first buses to MP that start leaving at 5:30am. We paid the lady across the street for our hostel the night before and literally put our key back in its assigned box the next morning...and then let ourselves out the door with the broken window...that apparently doesn´t lock.

The ride to MP was literally straight up hill with at least 8 switch backs if not more. It was cloudy and drizzly so you couldn´t really get a sense of the beauty around us...other than that we were climbing and climbing. We arrived at the gate just before it opened at 6am. We made our way in and got our first views of this amazing city. Even with the clouds and rain you could get a sense of its immensity. We had tickets to climb Wayna Picchu which is on the back end of the site. It is the tall mountain you often see in the background of pictures in MP. There are some ruins at the top of this mountain and they let 400 people a day climb it.

On recommendations from my friends Sara who made this trek last year, we bought the tickets. Wow was it worth it. We couldn´t see anything on the climb up. The clouds and light rain were blocking views and you could only see about 50 feet in front of you and sometimes get a view of the surrounding mountains. We climbed and climbed and climbed...and by this I mean we literally just were stair climbing. It is basically a massive rock staircase to the top and at some points rather terrifying because the steps up were large or the rocks themselves were small. One misstep and you could literally see yourself falling off the edge. About an hour later we reached the top and the ruins. We made our way through and were rewarded with the beginning glimpses of mountains around us as the clouds cleared. We found a spot to sit and wait for the cloud cover to burn off with the rising sun.

Around 9am we were awarded with our first view of MP in the distance. It was breathtaking. I don´t think I understood until that moment how big the site is and just what an incredible undertaking it was to build this city on a hill. We stayed for about an hour as the clouds cleared and just marveled at this impressive sight.

We decided to do the whole Wayna Picchu hike which involves descending down the backside of the mountain to the great cave at the bottom and then climbing back up (we didn´t know this at the time...had I known I might not have done it. As I sit here writing this, my calves and quads are so so sore). We started hiking down with two other folks and quickly passed them. We reached the cave and ruins probably 45 minutes later with shaking legs. We took a well deserved break and tried to convince ourselves we didn´t have to climb back up....we were wrong. We started the climb up and by about 11am I was sweating profusely, inhaling as much air as possible and trying to convince myself I could make it back to the main trail. This is seriously the most intense hike I have ever done and totally worth it.

Just as we were about to reach the main trail I saw someone running the other direction. I wasn´t sure why until I started smelling something strange. About five feet later, I came upon a massive pile of shit. I should probably point out here that the only bathrooms at MP are outside the entrance gate. At this point we were about as far as you could be from the entrance gate. I understand the need to go but seriously the dude didn´t event try and dig a hole or cover it up...that is the least he could have done.

Minus the small incident we had finally made it back to the main trail and we headed back to MP proper. There was one shorter climb near the main gate back to MP and we decided to climb it as well. Most people bypass this climb so we were alone minus one other person. It provided us with awesome views just much closer up than Wayna Picchu.

By this time it was after noon and we had been hiking for over 5 hours. Bridget was going to pass out from starvation so we decided to bite the bullet and pay for the buffet lunch provided outside the gates. Don´t get me wrong here I was also hungry but running on adrenaline from being at MP. This buffet was awesome...it should be for what we paid for it. I think each of us at 3 plates of food and dessert. We were in there long enough to avoid the rain that fell for about an hour. I also took advantage of the bathroom and fresh purified water...again you should for what we paid for it. Funny thing though was they were selling hotdogs and ice cream outside but you couldn´t get them in the buffet...and honestly they were all I wanted...I settled for awesome peruvian food instead but man was I craving a hotdog after that.

You can get back into MP all day with your ticket so after lunch we headed back in to do a tour of the actual site. That morning we had buzzed right through on our way to Wayna Picchu and didn´t see much except for very high on the opposite mountain. We took our time going through the whole site, reading our guide book and marveling at the engineering, architecture and pure strength that put this place together. We spent about 3 hours going through the main part of MP.

Around 4:30pm I was so tired I couldn´t fathom walking anymore so we headed to the gates. As we were heading to the gate, I heard a pretty strange and awful noise coming from about 20 feet away from me up a hill. I couldn´t figure out what it was until I heard Bridget say look at the llama love. There are llamas who roam the site eating the grass and apparently two of them got frisky. We arrived at what was apparently the tail end of it. The male llama dismounted and looked back at the female llama who proceeded to spit at him two or three times. I was laughing hysterically....what a perfect end to our visit to MP.

We had managed to stay at MP almost as long as any tourist can. We arrived the moment the gates opened and left 20 minutes before it closed. We were able to see the cloudy rainy moments of the morning...the sun slowly rising and the clouds leaving and the setting sun on the mountains hours later. We had planned to hike down the mountain instead of taking the buses but I couldn´t fathom climbing up or down another stair. My legs were literally dead. The bus dropped us off and we made our way to the train station to catch our train back to Ollanta. We arrived in Ollanta around 8pm and dragged our tired bodies another half mile uphill and to our hostel.

It was an incredibly long day but one I hope to never forget. I have seen pictures of MP before but you never really grasp just how incredible it is until you see it in person. The Inca were absolutely amazing with what they were able to build....and it has not only stood the test of time but also many major earthquakes...all intact. I am really still processing this whole experience and what it was like to get that first view of MP from up high on Wayna Picchu. It literally took my breath away.

Machu Picchu was really the cherry on top of this whole trip for me. I am finding myself ready to go home but also looking forward to the next 12 or so days. Peru is an absolutely stunning country with a wide array of plants and animals. We are going to experience much more of it as we leave from Cuzco. From here we head to Arequipa and hopefully to see some of the worlds deepest canyons. To give you perspective these canyons are twice the depth of the Grand Canyon. From there we make our way to Lima and then back home. I am ready to get out of Cuzco as well. The main plaza is so touristy. You are seriously accosted every five feet by someone trying to sell you something....the quiet and serenity of MP was a welcome change to the chaos of Cuzco.

More posts and pictures to come. And for you readers local to the Lansing/Brighton area, Bridget and I are planning a small slideshow when we get back and before she heads back to DC. The date is to be determined...but we plan to show some of our best pictures, tell a few stories, and have some authentic food (if all else fails we will have some chips and salsa).

The Ancient City Awaits Us

2011-12-07T20:20:00.001-05:00

Well it has been a long week and we are finally less than 24 hours away from Peru. I can barely contain my excitement. That said I have really loved Bolivia but Machu Picchu and the wonders of Peru are calling my name.

I am going to apologize again for not posting any photos...just too hard. I will put up a slideshow with then trip is over.

A quick recap of the last week and what our next plans our. Since my last post, Bridget and I spent the whole week in Sucre. We flew to La Paz this morning and fly to Cuzco tomorrow. I know we are living the high life...who travels by plane when they are backpacking...well we do...mostly because taking the buses would have taken much longer and we wanted to get the most time in Peru...so we compromised and flew. If I had all the time in the world, I would take the buses. It is cheaper, way more authentic an experience and so much more...but we became gringos to the max and flew.

Highlights....read as you please

Sucre
Beautiful town...it was the original capitol of Bolivia and they still claim rights to the Official Capitol even though all state business is now done in La Paz...long story behind that...just know folks from Sucre are very proud and constantly stake claim to being the capitol. It is a beautiful city among the mountains...like every city we have been to. It is also one of the most afluent cities in Bolivia. There is still a lot of poverty but you can tell this city has more money than others. In the main part of the downtown, they require all buildings to be painted white....going back to colonial times...see the pride I was talking about.

Living the High Life
Like I said Bridget and I lived the high life the past week. We need a day or two to rest and it turned into about four....and we were gringos to the max. We ate at nice restaraunts, got our nails done, went to the museums, etc. But you must know Sucre definitely caters to tourists...more than any other city we have been in so far. I probably saw more tourists here than in any other city...outside of the salt flats but that is a huge attraction for the beauty of that part of the country. As for doing our nails...well we just gave in and got a manicure and a pedicure for about 7 bucks...you can´t beat that...and my nails look great!

Basically in Sucre I can tell you where to get your nails done, where to get the best meal, where to see an authentic dance show, where to drink some great beer, where the best museums are, and where to relax and see the whole city. I have to admit one day I was getting very bored just being a tourist...but that comes and goes when you are spending each and every day visiting museums and figuring your way around.

Spanish
I sitll don´t speak it...but I understand much much more than I did when I arrive over two weeks ago. If the conversations are basic I catch most words and have a good understanding but don´t expect me to actually respond....that terrifies me a bit. Bridget is a great teacher though and is constantly encouraging me to be the one who asks for the check or how much something costs. She is a god send and her spanish is great even though she won´t say that. She did say to me today that if I understood more spanish I wouldn´t be impressed...She says sometimes she says things like ¨"we pay now"...whatever it gets the job done...

Food
I realized I haven´t really written much about the food minus Albina´s amazing cooking in Cochabamba. Honestly this is naive of me but I was really expecting a lot of rice and beans and was prepping myself for five weeks of basics...boy was I wrong. You can get whatever you want to eat here. It might taste a little different than in the states but I have had everything from gnocchi to pasta to pizza. Don´t get me wrong though...I am trying every bit of authentic bit of food I can get my hands on. This includes (and I am going to probably spell these wrong): pique macchu, silpancho, cunapie, llama meat (pretty good), empanadas, saltenas, and much much more. I have liked most and loved some. I of course am taking pictures of all the interesting food I eat so I can show it to you. Bolivia really is a bread basket of sorts so you really can get so so much to eat.

Observations
I am daily struck by the poverty here...it is so hard to comprehend. So many people really live on so little...less than two US dollars a day...and I gripe about a cab driver overcharging us...when really that money is going to great use. I really don´t know how people do it. It is really quite heartbreaking. Today in the airport we had multiple chidlren come up to us and ask for handouts. At one point we were eating a bag of chips and a small child, easily to older than 5, came up to us and asked for some. How can you not give a child something to eat when you are well fed and sticking your hand in a bag of chips at the exact moment he is asking you...of course we gave in and shortly after two more children came and aksed us for something. And the poverty is just so different than in the US...it is everywhere. You can´t avoid it even if you try.

We went to a cloistered convent the other day that sells sweets through a revolving door in the courtyard (which was totally cool and the sweets were good). There was an older lady there who started talking to us and we told her we were from the US. It led to a conversation which was mostly good but she made a comment about how we are able to travel and come here...but so many Bolivians don´t get an oppurtunity like us...and it is the truth. You can´t avoid it. It is something I think about a lot while seriously enjoying the ability and freedom and wealth to travel while knowing so many people around us struggle to find something basic to eat everyday. Mind you I amm typing this after writing all about how we lived a pretty blessed week in Sucre.

With all that said, I am having a great time. Looking forward to the next two weeks and soaking everything in. I am trying to process as much as possible and enjoy my time as well. If you haven´t traveled, I strongly ecourage it. It will change your worldview and well much more...

Bolivia as a whole has been a wonderful experience for me. I will take many memories with me and inspiration for further study of the spanish language. None of this would have happened without Bridget´s language ability. It is a beautiful country (although we only really saw the mountaineaous part) with really fantastci people. We have been treated to amazing hospitality at our hostals and host home and by kind strangers on the street. A pharmacist who we visited to buy some altitude sickness pills from later helped us find the correct micro (city bus) to get the the bus terminal...that will stick with me for a while...

What´s next...
Peru tomorrow if our travels go as planned. We will be in Cuzco for about a week and in the week visit Machu Piccu. From there we will head up the coast and eventually land in Lima for out flights home. I am so excited about Peru I can hardly stand it....pictures to come probably at the end of the trip.

Hope all is well in your neck of the woods...until next time.

Mountains, Dust, Buses, and More

2011-12-03T14:17:00.001-05:00

Well we have been on the road for a full week now and are taking a few days in Sucre to rejuvinate...and do some laundry. After Sucre we are headed to Peru to enjoy our last few weeks there. So much has happened in the past week that would take forever to type so I will go over some of the highlights.

Salar de Uyuni
We spent one day in the massive salt flats and the other two days of our tour in Southwest Bolivia visiting a national park and the other amazing sights. It is one crazy mountainous and dusty place. I am pretty sure it is almost all dirt but incredibly beautiful. It is for sure high plains and desert. We were in a jeep with our driver and tour guide Enrique and four others. Three South Koreans who are spending two years volunteering in Paraguay and also a guy from Switzerland. It was definitely an ecelectic group but we had a great time sharing stories and learning from each other. I will try and share picture soon so you can see the amazing sights and get a picture of it. Our companions on teh three day journey were definitely a highlight for me....and they invited us to South Korea as well! Highlights of the southwest....the hot spring, the salar, and the people. Riding in the jeep was great but very bumpy and dusty.

Bikers
I saw seven people biking through the mountains...presumably on the Pan Am trail. I was able to talk to three of them. They were biking from Ecuador all the way to the south end of Chile. Driving on these roads was terrible so I can´t imagine how they did it on bikes. Very inpsiring to me though and made my little dream of wanting to bike the pan am trail a little bit more of a reality.

Road to Potosi
We arrived back in Uyuni were we started our three day trek through the Salar and national parks. We stayed the night and hit the road the next morning for Potosi. It is about a 6 hour bus ride on some of the most terrifying roads I have ever been on. I thought our first bus ride was bad...that one paled in comparison to this ride. It was paved sometimes and otherwise just dirt. We gained over 500 meters of elevation on the tiniest of mountain roads with construction...seriously I stopped looking out the window and just listened to music to distract me. No less than 10 times did my heart jump out of my chest. We made it though...thank you god...Potosi is at 4000 meters which is probably the highest elevation I have ever been.

Elevation Issues
I am doing just fine with the elevnation other than not sleeping well. I have read that insomnia can be a side effect and I have definitely been struggling with that. I have probably only had two good nights of sleep the whoel time I have been here. Bridget has more troubles than I but we are making it. Just have to slow down and take things easy.

Hacienda Cayara
In Potosi, we stayed in the Hacienda Cayara. I still think it was in my imagination....something like Narnia. It is about 9 miles outside of Potosi in this beautiful valley with farms and amazing scenery. We were welcomed by Coca and Arturo who run the hacienda. They asked Rene to accompany us. Rene is I think 21 and lives there but isn´t from there. Wonderful young man. He took us on a tour of the whole grounds and a waterfall in the back of the valley that feeds the entire valley with electricty. We climbed up the side of the waterfall and walked back down on a long winding dirt road. We got caught in a rainstorm and hid under a tree for about 10 minutes. Rene also took us to the Lecharria to see the cows. These cows supply milk for the whole area which also makes cheese and ice cream...which we tasted all of it. While we were there, we met Eduardo who was the veternarian for the animals on the hacienda. That morning he helped deliver a new baby cow and showed us the little guy. So cute...we got pictures with the cow which we will hopefully share later. The milk man, which I like to call Eduardo, was great. He took us on a tour of the farm and answered all our questions. Bridget and I both walked away with crushes on him. Again if I can figure out how to post pictures I will...

They served us an amazing dinner at the Hacienda with wine made on site. Arturo is a historian and the hacienda is a little piece of Bolivian history. Potosi was pretty much the center of the world in the 1600s because they found silver in the mountains. The city quickly grew to 200,000 people including many slaves. They mined silver for a few centuries and still do but the production is much much smaller than it was...The hacienda was owned by very rich people from Spain way back in the 1600s and has only changed hands three times. It is now owned by the Aitken family of which Arturo is a grandson (I think). He has perserved the Haciendia as best as he can with orginial furniture, paintings, books, etc. I literally was staring at books there were 300 and 400 years old in their library. He gave a long tour and I was so impressed by the amazing history preserved here. The whole place was amazing and beautiful but the people were probably the best part. Arturo and Coca were incredibly hospitable and Rene accompanied us for most of the day. He taught us a Bolivian dice game which is a lot like Yahtzee. We have amazing pictures from our time here to be shared soon.

And Now
We left Potosi and are now in Sucre which is really the cultural capitol of the country. It is very colonial looking. We have only been here 1 day and are going to stay until Tuesday probably. So far we are having a good time and enjoying the history.

Our travels are going well and we have met a lot of interesting people. I am getting to the point of being able to understand some basic conversations and can even order and pay for my own food. Bridget is a great teacher.

More to come soon and I am sure I have left out so much. I am convinced all should travel to South America at some point.

On the road again

2011-11-27T16:02:00.001-05:00

We are officially on the road. You could probably tell from my radio silence. It has been a busy few days since I last posted. We celebrated Thanksgiving with Nuestra Casa...which was a real treat for more reasons that I have time to write here. Let me just say the turkey showed up 3 hours late because the person bringing it got in a car accident or a motorcycle accident or something like that involving a dog. I still didn´t get the full story but it was quite enjoyable.

Our host family made an awesome meal for our last meal with them on Friday. Seriously I couldn´t get enough. We all ate together and even had some wine. I am already missing Albina´s cooking. Before we left Cochabamba on Saturday we had lunch at the house and she packed us tomato and cheese sandwhiches for our bus ride (which they were seriously the best sandwhiches I have ever had). She also walked us out to the road, hailed a cab, haggled for the price, and wanted to pay...but we wouldn´t let her do that. Seriously this family is so generous and hospitable. I was overwhelmed with their kindness. Pablo told us to be careful of anyone selling candy or anything on the bus because it is sometimes laced with a drug to put us to sleep so people can steal from us. He wanted to be sure we knew this. This kid is awesome.

Our bus ride was beautiful but I thought we were going to die probably 15 times. I decided it was safer to not look out the window. We gained about 3000 feet in elevation and the whole way was on a narrow road and it rained about a third of the time. Our bus driver was passing people constantly...and you would frequently see the road drop off on either side. Seriously scary....but we made it.

We are in Oruro now...well just for the day. We got in last night and found a place to stay. We toured the town today and have a 7pm overnight train to Uyuni where we are going to tour Salar de Uyuni which are huge salt falts. If I understand correctly you can see them from space.

More to come next time we have internet. Sorry this ins´t more detailed. Just know we are doing well and enjoying the trip. The colors, people, smells and so much more are amazing.

Happy Thanksgiving

2011-11-24T08:04:00.001-05:00

I hope you are finding a place to celebrate with family and friends this Thanksgiving. Bridget and I along with others from the language institute are going to Nuestra Casa which is a home for girls. I am pretty sure there are about 10 girls living there. Each of the language school students are bringing something traditional to Thanksgiving including a turkey and we are having dinner with the girls. I am really looking forward to it. Again I will probably be the only one there who speaks little Spanish but it will still be fun. There won´t be any football but I am getting over it. Go Lions!!!

Yesterday Bridget and I went to the Cristo de la Concordia. It is a huge statue of Christ up on a big hill in Cochabamba. It is actually bigger than the one in Brazil by a few centimeters. Here is a link to the wikipedia page so you can get a sense of what it looks like: http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cristo_de_la_Concordia. I took some pictures as well which I will add later.

We are leaving on Saturday for Sucre. Before leaving Cochabamba we are also going to the Cancha which is a huge market and a convent that has been in existence for 100s of years. Both should be fun and interesting.

A few corrections to yesterdays post about transportation:

Taxis - They are called Trufis here and I forgot to mention that in my post. Also there are absolutely no seat belts which is sometimes terrifying. And the front seat always has room for three people so a small 4 door car will pack in 6 people. It is really quite impressive.
Party Buses - Well they aren´t actually called party buses. Their real name is Micros. I found out from Bridget that she alone calls them Party Buses. I laughed out loud when I realized my mistake. They do look like a party though with all their bright colors.

Transportation, Yoga and some other things

2011-11-23T12:09:00.001-05:00

Don´t get used to me posting everyday. I am lucky enough to have access to the computers while Bridget is in class so it is easy to check email and write a post.

A few notes on transportation in the city. Not many people own cars and there really isn´t public transportation in the city. There are a few options for getting around though:

Taxi
Party Bus
Walking

Taxis come in a variety of types. Some are literally folks who have just put the word taxi on their car and pick you up on the side of the road. These are definitely not the cars you want to get in. They are not officially sanctioned and you could easily get ripped off. The official taxis have numbers on them signifying the routes they run...almost like a bus system. You stand on the side of the road and look for the taxi with your number, signal for them and hop in. This sounds easy and it is....but it really becomes interesting when you get in the taxi. Most taxis are small cars or small vans and they cram as much people as possible in them. If there are five seats, every seat will get filled. I was in a small van the other day with probably 10 people and you just sit nice and close.

The Party Buses are about the size of small school buses and are painted in many colors. They also run basic routes and you let the driver know when you want to get out. I don´t know why they are called party buses...my only guess is because they are brightly colored. They are a little cheaper than taxis and run a little slower.

There are no official pick up and drop off points for taxis or buses. You just stand on the side of the road and hold out your hand. This can cause drivers to pull over suddenly and pick up somebody on the side of the road and there is always a lot of movement in the car itself to make room for somebody or let someone out. These rides are not for the feint of heart. The drivers can move pretty quickly and make fast turns and stops.

And there is always walking...

Today I went to Yoga with Bridget and her other classmates. Two things I knew about myself and quickly relearned...I am not good at Yoga and I still don´t know Spanish. The instructor was incredibly patient with me as I was sweating a rediculous amount for doing nothing but stretching my legs. She kept wanting me to push my stretch more...mas mas mas...and I would say no no no...already thinking I was going to pull a muscle. Yoga is Yoga no matter where you are but yoga in Spanish is interesting when you don´t know the language. Bridget translated some for me and I understood some of what the instructor was saying...and again sweating way too much for yoga.

I haven´t been sleeping well for some reason. I literally woke up at 1:45am on Tuesday morning and 3:00am this morning and couldn´t go back to sleep. Needless to say I am thankful for the audiobooks I downloaded before coming because they are keeping me company in the middle of the night.

More to come later...

2011-11-22T13:30:00.001-05:00

Hello from Bolivia!

I arrived on Monday morning and my friend Bridget was waiting for me at the airport. I was pretty wrecked from the overnight plane ride so I slept for about 4 hours while Bridget went to her language school classes. She is in her last week and finishes up on Friday. This gives me about 4 hours everyday to do whatever I like...but I don´t stray too far from Bridget because well I would be hopelessly lost in the city and have no way to get home without a lot of pointing and pretending I know Spanish.

So a quick recap of my travels so far...I flew out of Detroit into La Paz, Bolivia and grabbed a local plane to Cochabamba. I am here for about 6 days while Bridget finishes language school. This is giving me plenty of time to read, enjoy the area, and also figure out where we are going next. We are most likely headed to Sucre and Uyuni and then onto Peru.

For those of you who don´t have the patience to read long blog posts (which includes me), I am writing short sentences on a few highlights and will expand further for those who have the insane desire to read everything. I hope to include pictures at some point as well....I have to figure out how to upload from my camera.

First impressions...good food, good people, and much to learn.
Our Host Family is wonderful and Albina, the grandma, makes the best food in copious amounts.
I don´t know Spanish
Cinnamon ice cream is not my favorite

First Impressions...I love stepping off the plane, train or whatever into a new country and culture. I am initially overwhelmed by the sights, sounds and smells and just trying to get my bearings. This was no different when I landed in La Paz. I made my way through customs with no problem and found my connecting flight on another airline. I was paranoid I was in the wrong place and tried to sneak a peek at other passengers tickets to make sure I was in the right line without looking like a creeper. I didn´t feel solidly convinced I was on the right plane until the friendly German gentleman sitting next to me confirmed this plane was in fact going to Cochabamba. It was very hot when we first got in and thankfully Bridget was waiting for me. I loved the taxi ride through the city and all the new sights and sounds. And the mountains are incredible...stunning views from the airplane. We were literally flying past a stretch of the Andes and not looking down at them...literally flying right next to them.
Our Host family is amazing. There are two parents, two kids and their grandma who lives there. I have interacted with Albina this most. She makes each of the meals and is very gracious with my lack of Spanish. Her cooking is amazing as well. We have fresh fruit and freshly squeezed orange juice everyday along with huge lunches that not even two people can eat. It sometimes seems strange being in another person´s house like this but at the same time I feel very comfortable. I have only known the family for less than 24 hours and I am incredible grateful for their hospitality. And there is nothing like being able to take a nap after a long flight and a hot shower.
Spanish...well I don´t really speak it. I somehow managed to have a conversation with Scarlett our host mom. I used a lot of hand motions and about 5 of the spanish words I knew. She was amazing and helped come up with the words I couldn´t remember or think of or most likely didn´t know at all. I am excited to be here but at the same time I really feel like a fish out of water when everyone around you can have conversations...and you are often left to figure out the small bits you know. I am very glad Bridget knows Spanish and get us around...otherwise this trip would not have happened for me. I have almost five weeks here though so I will probably pick up some as we go. I am also alone in Lima for two days after Bridget flies out...so I am desperately hoping to pick up a few choice phrases to get what I need those two days after she leaves. And I am further motivated to study a language.
Bridget and I walked around the city yesterday evening after I got in and just took in the sights and sounds. I saw some folks with ice cream and well really wanted some. We stopped at Dumbo´s which is really just a chain and nothing authentic. After much perusing of the menu (read...Mari was looking at the pictures to determine what to order), I decided on an ice cream float with what I thought was strawberry. Upon my first swig, I realized quickly it wasn´t in fact strawberry but cinnamon flavored. It honestly tasted like Big Red gum. I could only get through about half of it before I had to give up. Needless to say cinnamon ice cream is not my favorite. I am hoping my other forays into actual authentic cuisine go better than this one. We haven´t gone out much because our host family takes care of all the meals but we will more as the week goes on and especially as we hit the road.

Until next time...oh and no I haven´t had an digestive problems...but it is only day two.

2011-10-24T21:40:00.001-04:00

Tonight I saw the documentary "Freedom Riders" with my sister. We went to the Marquette Public Library and went to a free showing. I came back home only to find out you can watch it online for free. Here is the link:

http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/americanexperience/freedomriders/watch

I obviously didn't grow up during this time but I find all of the movies, books and other information about it so interesting. This was a well done film and very informational for me. Leah and I were two of about 10 people in the audience and by far the youngest. Everyone else looked old enough to me to have lived during this time and it was interesting to listen to them comment throughout the film. I strongly recommend watching the movie and sharing it with others.

Here is a short description of the film: FREEDOM RIDERS is the powerful harrowing and ultimately inspirational story of six months in 1961 that changed America forever. From May until November 1961, more than 400 black and white Americans risked their lives—and many endured savage beatings and imprisonment—for simply traveling together on buses and trains as they journeyed through the Deep South. Deliberately violating Jim Crow laws, the Freedom Riders met with bitter racism and mob violence along the way, sorely testing their belief in nonviolent activism.

Catching Up

2011-10-17T23:16:00.001-04:00

I am trying out a new template here...let me know what you think. You can also change how you see the blog by clicking on the template options on the top left. You can follow the blog by hitting the rainbow looking symbol in the top right.

Well this is yet another attempt on my part to keep folks updated on my comings and goings. As most probably know, I am traveling around the country and eventually to South America over the next few months. I left my job in the middle of September, loaded up my car (yes everything fit...the car was riding very low to the ground), and started driving. A quick peek and where I have been:

Left Washington, DC on September 22nd
Baltimore, MD

Overnight with a friend of mine from the Lasallian Volunteers

Philadelphia, PA

For a week visiting friends who I met during my time as a Lasallian Volunteer

New York, NY

I was actually staying in The Bronx for a week. I toured NYC, went to a fantastic Broadway musical (The Book of Mormon - I highly recommend it), and attended a friend's wedding at the end of the week.

Tolland, CT

Overnight with a friend of mine from high school and her fiance

South Deerfield, MA

Randomly discovered a good friend of college was living close by and made an impromptu trip north for the night.

Erie, PA

Finally headed back to MI (yes my car is still loaded down). I stopped in Erie to visit a dear friend of mine from DC who just moved there. She taught me that you can make fruit leather from scratch.

Lansing, MI

Finally arrived back in Lansing on October 12th. I stayed with my family for a few days and headed to see my sister and her family in the UP.

Marquette, MI

CURRENT Location

I am currently in Marquette, MI with my sister, her husband Pete and their three kids (see photo at top to see two of the kids). I will be here for a week or so. Needless to say my sister's life is incredibly different than mine or at least what it was. I am really enjoying spending time with her and getting to know my niece and nephews better.

I am currently not on the job hunt and won't be for a little while. I am enjoying traveling and looking forward to traveling to Bolivia and Peru at the end of November. I am hoping to keep this blog more updated.

For pictures of my travels, check out the following:

Hello

2011-07-16T22:37:00.002-04:00

I am terrible about posting on here. Between total exhaustion, miles of biking, phone calls to make to be sure we have a place to stay and something to eat, I am finding myself with very little time...and more often than not no internet connection. It has been a great summer so far and I am really enjoying myself. Like I said in my last post of 14 months ago :) follow the LVs Ride blog and you will get a lot of information from there.

We are in Redfield, SD right now and we are two days from crossing the boarder into MN. I really can't believe we have already come this far. Give it another day or two and we will cross the 2,000 mile mark. That's intense. My knees hurt pretty regularly now and I am not sure what to do about that. I am thinking about moving my seat up about a cm to see if that will help.

The heat has been pretty intense. I drink more water now than probably ever before in my life. I know it is bothering other riders more than myself. I am just grateful I can get on my bike everyday and enjoy the trip cross country.

My favorite stops so far: Shell, WY. Population probably 15 but the amount of fun to be had is greater than that. The people were great and showed us amazing hospitality. We had an amazing night there.

The Big Horn Mountains were intense to climb. I hope to come back and enjoy them for a longer period of time but without my bike. We climbed to 9,033 feet over 20 miles and I never want to repeat that again. It was amazing and intense but a once in a lifetime experience.

Really the trip has been great with definite ups and downs but I am having a great time. I owe many a phone call and it will come at some point...don't worry...maybe I will catch up on all those rest days in Chicago. I can't wait until Chicago :)

I hope you are well and enjoying following the ride. We will be in your neck of the woods soon if we haven't been there already.

Beginning of the Ride

2011-06-16T00:45:00.002-04:00

Posting on here is apparently harder than I thought it would be. I have some awesome videos to show with people but they are a bear to upload. I will upload them as I can. For now, know we are excited for the ride to start on Thursday. We are all ready to go staying the night at a church in Warrenton, OR. They people here are amazing and have let us have the run of the place.

We had a great spaghetti dinner made by a slew of riders. We start at 8:30am Pacific time so think about me if you are up for it.

If you want more consistent updates, follow the ride blog on our website. I honestly have to say it is amazing.

http://lvsride.com/social/

And We're Back....

2011-03-14T22:54:00.004-04:00

That's me on my bike after a long ride...and yes that is a Chipotle burrito in my back pocket. Why am I riding long distances with Chipotle burritos in my back pocket to reload? Read below to find out more.

It has almost been one year since I stopped blogging, so it seems right about time to get started again...and for good reason. I am going to be biking cross country this summer. Read all about it below and get ready because it will pretty much be the only thing I blog about.

Riding Coast to Coast

What does 3,400 miles + 1 bicycle + 1 sore body equal? If you said, me biking cross country this summer you are exactly right. I am biking with 14 other people to raise awareness for poverty in America and the work of the Lasallian Volunteers. LVs Ride, as our trip is called, is an epic bike trip from Astoria, OR to Long Branch, NJ. We will stop at churches, schools and communities along the way to share our message of service and the hope to one day end poverty.

Why LVs Ride?
It has always been a dream of mine to bike cross country. As I finished my two years of volunteer service with the Lasallian Volunteers, my friends and I said, “why not now and why not for the Lasallian Volunteers?” My experience as a Lasallian Volunteer was life changing and transformative. I developed lifelong friendships with Christian Brothers, experienced the many challenges faced by families in low-income communities, and most importantly I mentored and coached 15 students from West Catholic High School through hot temperatures, rain and snow to the completion of the Philadelphia Marathon and Half Marathon. Talk about life changing. It was awe inspiring running with each of those kids and seeing them cross the finish line.

Over the last year and a half, our planning team has constructed this trip from scratch. On June 16th, our dream becomes a reality when I put my back tire in the Pacific Ocean and head out on a epic journey to share my heart for hurting people in America and encourage others to help break the cycle of poverty. I am extremely excited about this trip not only for the challenge but also to share the message of the ride and the Lasallian Volunteers around the country.

Can You Spare $70?
Would you please consider supporting me and the Lasallian Volunteers through this ride? In order to go on the bike trip, I need to raise $1 per mile which totals $3,400. I will meet my fundraising goal if 49 of my family and friends donate $70 each. Why $70? We are biking an average of 70 miles a day a day. If you sponsor one day of my trip at $70, I will call you on the day you sponsored and let you know how I am doing, where we are at and what we are sharing with people on the route. Here is a link to our route so you can stake your claim: http://lvsride.com/about/route-schedule.php.

$70 x 1 Day = $70 raised and 1 phone call to you on a day of your choosing
$70 x 2 Days = $140 raised and 1 phone call to you on 2 days of your choosing
Well you get the picture…

You can also follow my blog this summer. I will be writing about my experiences: the good, the bad and the ugly. If you would prefer email updates, put your email on the attached form and send it my way. Thank you for taking the time to read about this amazing adventure. I am grateful for your support and can’t wait to share this summer with you.

Thank you,

Mari

How can you donate? Two ways in fact:

Online
https://lasallianvolunteers.myetap.org/fundraiser/lvsride/individual.do?participationRef=4586.0.29943963

Mail
Write a check payable to Christian Brothers Conference and put my name on the memo line. Send it to:
Lasallian Volunteers
3025 Fourth Street, NE
Hecker Center, Suite 300
Washington, DC 20017

Over the Rhine

2010-04-24T08:58:00.003-04:00

Apparently I share posts from other people now instead of sharing my own thoughts. But honestly I like what other people have to say. The following is an email from one of the singer/songwriters of one of my favorite bands Over the Rhine. Linford has an amazing way with words and their music is amazing. I strongly encourage all of you to go out and buy their music today and maybe support them on their next project. I can guarantee that you will like their music.

Here you go...from Karin and Linford and Over the Rhine

Hello extended musical family,

Might want to pour a cup of something good and settle in. You know it always takes me at least four pages to say a proper hello.

Hope you are well.

Many thanks to all of you who were able to join us at our recent concerts down South and beyond: many memorable moments, some very enjoyable evenings. Thank you. And thanks for letting us try out some of our new songs. We’re heading out again on Saturday for a sweet little run (KY, MN, IL, MO, IN). Hope to see you.

We have some big news.

Spring has come to Ohio. The grass is green, the silver maples have their leaves, our part of the earth has tilted back toward the sun, which seems to take pleasure now in drenching the house in morning light. If you stand on the porch, close your eyes, turn your face toward the sun and let it shine on your eyelids, if you breathe deeply, it feels like someone is pouring a pitcher of light directly into your soul.

The birds are drunk on spring, flirting, nesting, singing. Our lone tupelo tree has new eager buds that make it look like a candelabra full of tiny green candles. My mother says if you pay attention it’s like watching the world being created all over again right in front of your eyes.

Karin and I sit on the porch swing, and we often wonder aloud: Could we share this? What if we could use our little farm as a creative gathering place for the occasional outdoor concert, a songwriting workshop, a place where we could help other young artists find their way forward? Hopefully, we can continue to put the infrastructure in place for that to happen. But that’s a conversation for a different day…

Yes, we are feeling adventurous. (Maybe adventure is simply paying attention to the part of you that wants to be created all over again.)

We are feeling like we want to invite you along.

We have some big news.

For the first time ever, this coming May 17, Karin and I are planning to travel to the West Coast to make an Over the Rhine record. We are going to work with producer Joe Henry and an amazing cast of characters. We are going to make a record that we can’t quite imagine. Hopefully it will be a little bit strange and a little bit wonderful.

Hopefully we will, “Blow the seams out of the songs...” (JH)

One thing for sure: We are going to be surprised.

There are at least three reasons why we still want to make music:

One: We believe making music has something to do with what we were put on this earth to do. If we leave our songs alone, they call to us until we come back to where we belong. When we live in the sweet spot of that calling, it gives others (you?) permission to discover the sweet spot of your own calling and live there.

Two: Both Karin and I have had occasion to bury loved ones. When we put loved ones in the ground, we find that we lose interest in acquiring stuff. We know we can’t take it with us when we go. No, it’s not about acquiring, rather it’s about what we are able to leave behind. That’s what gives life meaning: doing work that you can leave behind, your personal token of gratitude to the world in return for the gift of getting to be alive in it. (We believe the opportunity to make this record with Mr. Henry has everything to do with what we will leave behind.)

Three: Presence. There is a beautiful passage of scripture that made an impact on me as a child that I have never forgotten. Jesus said that if you help someone in need, someone hungry or naked or thirsty or imprisoned, if you are able to be present with them and soothe them in some way, it’s the same as if God was hungry or naked or thirsty or imprisoned and you found a way to help God.

There is so much need in this beautiful broken world it can be overwhelming. Maybe the most profoundly satisfying thing about making music for the last 20 years is we have watched people invite our music to be part of the big moments of their lives – a slow dance in the kitchen with someone who changed everything, a walk down the aisle at a wedding, a child being born... Unfortunately, big moments also occur during seasons when it feels like everything is going horribly wrong. We all need music during those dark times too – I know I do. It’s always humbling and amazing to learn that our music can be present in those too-difficult-too-imagine times. In some small way, through our music, it feels like we get to be present too, even when that is physically impossible. We get to be there in spirit.

That’s enough to keep us coming back.

That and all the sex and drugs…

I’m just kiddin’.

One dilemma with doing something creative for a long time is it can become a bit predictable. If an artist doesn’t push forward into fresh territory, doesn’t continue to risk something, doesn’t seek out new people who can teach her something unexpected, help her find a new way into the center of it, something vital begins to atrophy.

Karin and I have been writing our new songs for a good while now. I suppose many of them are understated glimpses into the people we are (so far) and the people we long to be and the difference that lies between.

Songs are little holders of ideas and images and questions that we want to remember. Sometimes the songs simply gather together some particular details of our life here on the farm. The songs teach us what we care about, and on a good day surprise us. Sometimes the new songs soothe us during our own dark moments. Sometimes they try to lend a helping hand.

Underneath our writing, there is a hunger and belief in possibility: the possibility that the “best” Over the Rhine record hasn’t been made yet. The possibility that our best work is still out there waiting for us. The possibility that we can still grow…

With this in mind, we asked ourselves, If we could make our next record with any producer/ally, someone who could help us record a project that we can’t quite imagine and envision (we want to be at least a little bit surprised as I’m sure you do), who would that person be?

We thought of some of our favorite moments on records we had heard in the last several years.

A name that quickly rose to the top of our list is songwriter and producer Joe Henry.

Joe has been quietly making records (well not that quietly, he has won at least two Grammy’s) that don’t sound like other records being made in 2010. They are a little bit dark and cinematic and funky and unpredictable. It seems like he loves to help performers who have already covered a lot of miles – people like Mavis Staples, Elvis Costello, Allen Toussaint, Solomon Burke, Louden Wainwright, Ramblin’ Jack Elliot, Mose Allison – rediscover the soul of what they do in new light.

But maybe even more importantly, Joe is a fine songwriter. We were excited about the possibility of getting his perspective on the actual writing.

Well, it’s always a long shot when you start at the top of your list, but to make a long (amazing) story short enough to fit into this letter, Joe has fully embraced the idea of helping us make this next Over the Rhine record. The ensuing conversation has been wonderful. We have discovered some friends in common, and I think we will discover even more common ground along the way as we discover the next chapter of the band together. We are even writing a song together that keeps us up at night in a good way.

Here’s the thing: this is the point in the process where early in Over the Rhine’s career a record label would have stepped forward and offered to put up the money to make this record. The label would then have taken outright somewhere between 80-90% of all the money the record made (your money). Out of the 10-20% that was our share, they then would have reimbursed themselves all the money they advanced us to make the recording possible, plus many other costs associated with its release. (This felt sort of like paying down your mortgage after the bank had already figured out how to keep 80% of your paycheck. And then the big surprise waiting at the end: after you paid off your mortgage, they still owned your house! That is, the label, after it was all said and done, owned the record forever.)

For years, most musicians went with the above, because the labels controlled distribution, and if you wanted to get your records in a record store… well, this is probably all old news to you.

For much of our career, we (and countless others) tried with varying degrees of success to find creative ways around this model. It made many of us fiercely independent. We felt we had to break free, come what may. (We should mention there are good people still working at record labels, who are trying to get good music released, but unfortunately, it feels like most labels have been all but devoured from the top down…)

Several years ago, Karin and I turned down several offers, cashed in all of our personal resources, found an investor to help us get started, and formed our own label, Great Speckled Dog, which we 100% own. We secured our own national distribution deal.

When it comes to our music: We are now in the driver’s seat. (Our label, GSD, is named after our Great Dane Elroy, of course: Him old, but him baby.)

Our first chapter with our very own Great Speckled Dog Records was the release of The Trumpet Child and Snow Angels. We learned a lot. Thanks to you, those projects supported us, and our touring ensemble, for almost 3 years. The Trumpet Child is on pace to eventually out sell any record released on our behalf by a label in the last 20 years. It has been a rare blessing, to see the audience for our music continue to steadily grow.

But now we find ourselves very much at the end of an album cycle winding down. It’s time for the next step. It’s time for a new Over the Rhine record.

Friends, the good news is this:

In 2010, there is no middleman.

It’s just us and you.

So, for the first time in our career, we are simply going to appeal directly to you, the people who care about Over the Rhine’s music, and ask if you will partner directly with us in making this new record.

We have a little less than four weeks to raise the money. It’s an ambitious step for us, but it feels right.

Whatever funds we are able to raise will go directly to our label, Great Speckled Dog, to help take care of this new music we will make. It will be used to help cover actual recording costs, and give the songs the best send-off into the world that we can afford. (We do plan to see the record distributed nationally and internationally.)

Close friends are always surprised when we begin to tally the costs involved in getting an Over the Rhine record recorded and out the door. We’ll spare you a full report, but generating a well-made thing – it does add up.

If you’re willing to help us make this record, we will offer our gratitude in all sorts of ways. (We’re not asking for something for nothing. We had a little fun and came up with a whole range of options you can grin at.)

If you can spare $15 now, we’ll make sure you have your beautifully packaged CD one month before the official release date, along with a personal thank you on Over the Rhine’s website, 3 bonus tracks and a small surprise when the CD ships.

We will not presume, but if you are able and willing to give way more than $15, we will gratefully accept, give you any number of special treats in return, and put the funds to good use to make this next chapter of Over the Rhine possible. We will hopefully have more than a little fun along the way. We will keep you posted.

Once or twice in my life I got to see my Amish relatives get together with friends and neighbors and frame a barn on a Saturday. This doesn’t feel all that different to me. It’s always humbling to admit you need help, but if you find the courage, it creates a space for a community to come together.

Maybe making this new record together is just that: An opportunity to come together to leave something behind, a little token of gratitude to the world for the gift of being alive in it. We will write our names on the music (and yours if you’re game) and let people know we were here. We tried to pour a little pitcher of light into the soul of the world.

We hope you will join us.

Curious?

Walk down this rabbit hole to get all the details:

http://www.overtherhine.com/makearecord.php

Love from Nowhere,

Linford and Karin

PS:
Karin and I will be selling a few of our worldly possessions to help make this possible, including (some vintage) musical instruments and (some vintage) recording equipment that we no longer use regularly, some of which we utilized to record past Over the Rhine projects. Stay tuned if you’d like to own a little physical piece of OtR history.

PPS:
Please feel free to share this e-mail with family and friends. Leave a copy on the paint-splattered oak table next to works-in-progress. Line the rows of your flower beds with its pages, cover them with 2-3 inches of mulch and keep the weeds down. Slip a copy of the letter after scrawling the words “WHAT NEXT?!” in red ink on it into the LP jacket of The Trumpet Child as a sort of extended warning label. And finally, loosely line the Victorian birdcage with these pages edge to edge and let the white doves crap all night long.

PPPS:
We’ve had a heck of a time trying to keep up with e-mail. Sorry we haven’t been able to respond personally to more of you. But pls write to us. We do read all the mail. We would love to know your thoughts/ideas as we kick off the next 20 years. The address is still:
otrhine@aol.com

PPPPS:
To manage your subscription to the Over the Rhine newsletter please visit:
http://overtherhine.com/mailman/listinfo/otrannounce_overtherhine.com

Tanzania

2010-04-19T10:44:00.002-04:00

Apparently I have been connected with people living internationally. This is from my cousin Meghan who is getting ready to leave Tanzania after almost two years. It is beautiful. All these emails from friends and family overseas has got me itching to leave. I am going to Honduras for 10 days in August. I can hardly wait.

Tutaonana Baadaye

With having lived in Africa for close to two years it is now time for
me to say goodbye. I will be boarding a plane headed to America with a
backpack filled with a ridiculous amount of memories, cheap souvenir
gifts, some loose change and a piece of my heart missing.

Although I am extremely saddened by my departure I am eager to
discover what my tomorrow will bring. What I do know is that I will
see my youngest and only brother getting married, I will move back to
the East Coast to live with Katie, Nick and my beautiful, little
nephew and I will start school in the summer for Nursing. Let’s just
hope that I have as much passion for Biology, Chemistry and Physiology
as I do for Tanzania. If this is not the case, I might be packing my
backpack once again. Being a crazy, seventy year old woman in Africa
with twenty adopted children has always sounded appealing.

It has been two wonderful years. It has been two amazing years. It has
been two extraordinary years.

Two years I will never forget.

I have woken up every morning to loud mosques, incredibly obnoxious
birds, screaming children and barking dogs. I have failed miserably in
learning Swahili. I have seen poverty and have been unable to help. I
have eaten little fish called dagaa and am sure to have tasted
mysterious meat in unknown dishes. I have shed countless tears of
frustration and happiness. I have worked ridiculously hard and have
played even harder. I have truly learned what it means to be selfless.
I have sat through a five hour church service that was spoken only in
Swahili. I have ridden every mode of transportation available in East
Africa and have enjoyed the camel on the beach the most. I have
memorized the nine stories of Bugando Hospital. I have boiled water
for endless hours and have accepted the fact that it will always be
brown. I have laughed from the belly. I have become a regular at the
Duka across the street. I have had my life philosophy tweaked, changed
and moulded by children all under the age of five. I have fallen in
love with a story about a girl, a boy and a box. I have watched the
most incredible sunsets from a tree fort overlooking Lake Victoria. I
have mastered the use of a drop hole. I have been a teacher but more
importantly I have been a student. I have befriended the worm in my
toe and have accepted his existence. I have been awakened by emotions
of sorrow, heartache, passion and helplessness. I have cursed bad
roads, dust, power outages, water shortages and body odor. I have
taught a man how to fish. I have never lost hope of saving the world
with my own two hands. I have learned how to cut a pineapple
perfectly. I have respected and appreciated deeply- the local women
who have endured hardship, tragedy and loss more then I will ever
know. I have lost a piece of my heart to the children, the culture and
the land of Tanzania.

I have watched my last sunset over the shores of Lake Victoria where
the dhow boats come to life and the city falls to sleep.

See you very soon.
Meg

If you have a minute- You should check out this short film...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sE_i_lWlAw