FOOTPRINTS ON THE SANDS OF TIME

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noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Wed, 14 Aug 2013 06:07:00 +0000

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OFFBEAT DUBLIN- Museum of Natural History

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Sun, 28 Apr 2013 04:10:00 +0000

This was my second trip to Dublin, and I was determined to see Dublin beyond the usual pubs and literary heritage.

My guide Mairtin walked me through Georgian neighbourhoods and suddenly took a detour on Merrion Street to show me a place that he had loved as a child.

I entered the dusty, slightly musty Museum of Natural History which first opened in 1857 and was amazed to see high ceilings, and lovely floor mosaics and grilles with antique Victorian show cases filled with more than 2 million specimens from Ireland and all corners of the globe. The Dubliners call it the Dead zoo and the museum is typically Victorian design and spirit when people believed in ‘shoot it, stuff it and show it’.

Giant deer skeletons, mammals, birds and fish, a butterfly collection, insects pickled in jars, gigantic whale and shark specimens suspended from the ceilings this museum even has a dodo skeleton !

I even saw a polar bear shot by an explorer with the bullet mark intact.

There were beautiful glass animal figurines of hard- to- preserve animals like anemones and jelly fish done by a father and son glass maker duo from Dresden.

And the best for the last, the museum is free of charge! A great way to go back in time to old Dublin!

The sacred island of Delos- Greece

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Thu, 25 Apr 2013 03:45:00 +0000

One of the most fascinating places that I visited in Greece was the island of Delos a boat ride away from the tourist heaven Mykonos.

Delos was the legendary birthplace of the twins Artemis and Apollo and a place where the Greek came to worship various gods and goddesses at the temples built there.

The island is an archaeological site- with excavations still going on. In ancient times the island was so sacrosanct that no one was allowed to spend the night here. In 167 BC, it became a hub of commercial activity and merchants settled here and built luxurious home. We landed on the island and spent a day walking through the ruins, with the sounds of bees and cicadas in the air, with a map in hand.

One of the most gorgeous sights on the island was the Avenue of the Lions. At one time there were between 9 and 12 lions, crouched marble beasts, standing guard at the Sacred Lake.

The lions in the photo are replicas but the real Naxian lions can be seen in the island's archaeological museum.

I loved these mosaics, well preserved columns, statues, and resident chameleons on rocks.

I visited the small museum on the island with some of the finds from the archaeological digs.

The only other people we saw were these students on a field trip..

I had a fresh orange juice here ( the owner said they were from Crete) and sat gazing at the ruins....A great way to spend a day away from Mykonos...

SPAIN'S OWN VERSAILLES

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Sat, 13 Apr 2013 05:55:00 +0000

One of the best excursions from Madrid was the royal palace La Granja de san Il defonso also called ‘Little Versailles’. At one time a farm stood on the site of this palace which explains its name- ‘La Granja’ meaning farm in Spanish.

This slate roofed summer palace was built by King Felipe V, the first Bourbon king of Spain who came from France (he was the grandson of Louis IV)... He was probably homesick for France and he modelled this on Versailles, where he spent a large part of his childhood. The La Granja palace has hints of Moorish design and some Italian touches as well.

I loved my morning spent here walking around the extensive grounds, with trees from different parts of the world including giant sequoias, the spectacular setting at the foothills of the Sierra de Guadarrama mountains and visiting the rooms inside, with one hall devoted to extravagant Flemish tapestries.

Felipe V got sculptors and designers from Paris who laid out elaborate gardens and 26 ornate sculptures which act as fountains.

The fountains are all cast from lead so that do not rust, then they are painted bronze or bleached to look like marble- all of them depict allegories and mythological characters ranging from Diana to Apollo.

The King first built this as a retreat but later it became a focal point of the court.

Photography was not allowed inside the palace, but I was amazed at the opulence: Carrara marble, frescoes, huge chandeliers, antique French clocks and 16^th century Flemish tapestries that were woven form gold, silver and silk that they say took one year of work for just one square meter. The piece de resistance of the collection is the Honours and Virtues series, based on cartoons by Goya.

The fountains have pools, jets, spouts and basins and amazingly the original fitting and pipes are still in working condition- they are turned on certain special days and holiday.

Glamping in the shadow of Ayers Rock..

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Thu, 11 Apr 2013 04:31:00 +0000

My front row seat to Uluru or the Ayers Rock in the red heart of Australia was the ultra stylish luxury tented property Longitude 131, with palatial tents named after famous Australian pioneers or explorer in muted shades of beige and brown.

Voyages which owns the hotel claims to have the best environmental practice in the Australian tourist industry. I hear that there was great care taken during construction- most of the work was done by hand without using heavy earth moving equipment and care was taken to see that there were no sacred sites in this area.

The tents are actually steel structures on stilts, with polyester roofs to reflect heat and rain. The ceiling dome supported by a tall pole has white flowing material billowing in graceful folds to give that illusion of camping.

I loved the contemporary colonial decor inspired by the luxury tented camps of Africa with each room themed on a Outback Explorer with hand drawn maps, paintings, photographs and memorabilia dotting the walls.

The Dune House in the middle of the resort is the ‘living room’ of the resort a communal space where you can meet other guests or relax. Where you can lounge in comfy leather couches the cosy library stocked with maps, books and games and have a few drinks or chat with friends.

All 15 rooms of the hotel look out into Uluru. The rooms have rustic stone floors, solar water heating and floor to ceiling glass doors that can be opened to let in the desert air with a mesh to keep out the creepy crawlies.

The room combines old world charm with the joys of technology with a I pad in every room loaded with Australian movies, books and games like monopoly as well as Bose speakers. The wardrobe and mini-bar have metal mesh-work doors which attempt to replicate early settlers meat chests.

In keeping with the eco friendly motif of the resort. I find branded stainless steel bottles for carrying water with a Royal Doulton pottery urn for refills. The resort makes the maximum use of the contrast between the wildernesses outside the creature comforts inside. The bathroom has a large sink inspired by the watering troughs for horses of early Australians.

The resort has no gym or spa- only a petite pool where you can soak with views of the red beauty. But the hotel offers myriad activities around the red centre ranging from walks and treks with a guide to explain the unique eco systems to a swish Table 131- a a candlelit five-course feast held in the desert under the stars.

There is no television in the room: why on earth would you want one when the ultimate in room entertainment is of course watching the changing colours of the iconic rock change from deep russet to purplish black- from sunset to sunrise from the artfully positioned king sized bed with white linen,. Even the bathroom offers views of the rock with an artfully placed sliding mirror.

MALDIVES BEYOND THE RESORTS

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Sat, 16 Mar 2013 17:08:00 +0000

Everyone is familiar with images of cerulean seas and swish resorts of the Maldives with rooms on stilts where alcohol flows and honeymooners basking on white sandy beaches. But these are some images of Maldives beyond the resorts.

I took a trip to some local islands and walked through the streets...I saw a football field in every island, a modern mosque with a loudspeaker playing prayers through the day.

Many houses have been traditionally built out of coral, though that is now changing. Each house had a joli- a rope seat in a wooden or metal frame. Bread fruit and almond trees lined the spotless sandy streets, swept by women every day.

Women tended to fires, made bread and fish broth; children played under the shade of trees.

I saw this tiny girl deeply immersed in her book!

Bright flags of political parties hung in garlands. Every village had a small boat building yard, a local store and a small school. Some islands even had souvenir stores for tourists who visited them.

This was such a vastly different world, compared to the tourist brochure Maldives!

Unique Rock Church, Helsinki

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Wed, 06 Mar 2013 09:33:00 +0000

One of the most unique modern churches that I have visited is the incredible

Temppeliaukio Church also called the Rock Church in Helsinki, Finland.

This church was built by brothers Timo and Tuomo and opened in 1969.

The Church was built out of a solid rock outcrop.

The Church has an extraordinary, ethereal, dome made of gleaming copper wire, and concrete beams with glass in an amazing design.

The rough walls of raw rock gleaming in the light of the flickering candles, the unadorned altar, the birch wood benches and the golden sunbeams streaming in like a thousand dancing elves entranced me.

The church is a favoured place for concerts because of its excellent acoustics due to the rough, rock surfaces.

This unique church has no bells- just recorded chimes played on loudspeakersJ

Usually,English-language worship services are conducted every Sunday at 2pm.

Change of Guard

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Sun, 03 Mar 2013 07:48:00 +0000

When I was in Athens recently, I loved watching the Change of Guards at Syntagma Square. All over the world there are ceremonies for Change of Guards but I found this one to be quite different, even quirky!

The perfectly choreographed Change of Guards takes place ever hour before the Tomb of The Unknown Soldier and the Presidential Palace.

The handsome Guards are called ‘Evzones’ and are special elite soldiers who are meant to guard the Presidential Palace and the Tomb and are chosen based on their height (they are all above 6” 1’ and have to be motionless for hours!). They have to be disciplined, be able to take public attention for hours without reacting.. and be immune to weather conditions! Phew!

The piece de resistance is the costumes that the Evzones wear: a kilt- like flounced skirt called the fustanella with 400 pleats (one for every year of Turkish occupation), knee garters with white wool stockings and red leather shoes with pom poms! My guide tells me that to make this elaborate costume, skilled tailors toil for something like 80 days!

The evzones neither walk nor march-the motion is more like slow dance with their legs kicked up high into the air!

You are allowed to take pictures with them:

Be serious, don’t make faces and don’t make conversation with themJ

On Sundays there is the special Grand Change at 11 am with a military band.

In the shadows of skyscrapers....

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Tue, 26 Feb 2013 04:47:00 +0000

When I was in Vancouver, one of the localities that I loved visiting was Granville island.

Granville Island sits in the middle of False Creek, the body of water that separates Vancouver from the city's West End.

This 37-acre industrial wasteland in Vancouver’s False Creek

has been transformed into a vibrant locality with artists and artisans, talented buskers, a Farmer’s market and many independent shops. You can laze in cafes with a view or indulge in beer tasting at the Granville Island Brewery.

The Aquabus, provides ferry service from Granville Island to Downtown Vancouver.

We walked the many winding alleys here and made serendipitous discoveries.

I just loved these cramped boat houses with the ocean at the doorstep,
on the eastern edge of Granville Island. Bright colours and tourists gawking at your backyard- the thirty odd residents here sure have some quirky homes.

TO MARKET , TO MARKET!

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Fri, 22 Feb 2013 09:25:00 +0000

One of the first things I do in any European city is head to their local market which is usually an atmospheric melee of people, flavours and smells.

One of the markets that I really enjoyed seeing is Budapest’s majestic Central Market Hall.

Built in 1897 using bricks, cast iron and glass and completely renovated in 1999, the covered Central Market hall is today a great hunting ground for souvenirs. They say that when it just opened ships sailed right into the building using special docks!

Beautiful Zsolnay tiles cover the enormous roof structure, that makes it look spectacular from outside.

The Stalls on the first floor overflow with Hungarian lace and embroidery, white peasant shirts, traditional embroidered waistcoats, hand crafted Porcelain, painted wooden toys and enameled jewellery.

The ground floor is a cacophonous melee of stalls lined with garlands of paprika (the Hungarians use a lot of spices), salami, sausages and liver, dessert wine and long necked bottles of the golden Tokaji.

I loved these hot dogs in the colours of the Hungarian flag!

I saw a lot of pickles- homemade pickled cucumbers, sauerkraut, pickled stuffed peppers.

The market is closed on Sundays but other days it opens early -sometimes as early as 6:00 am, and closes fairly early as well. Even if you are not a shopper, you must visit it to experience the unique architecture and atmosphere

CANDY STRIPES

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Sat, 16 Feb 2013 05:11:00 +0000

An integral part of the French Basque region is Basque linen or Linge Basque with its traditional stripes which used to be in a sober colour palette of red, green and cream. Traditionally there used to be seven stripes on the linen: one for each province of the Basque region- three in France and four in Spain.

They say that the origins of the linen was in the Middle ages when weavers went door to door and made small linen squares to protect the cattle from insects called La mante a boeufs!

I visited the Tissage Lartigue factory and showroom in the village of Ascain, near St Jean de Luz, who have been making this linen from 1910.

They use cotton threads of 65 colours and create cushion covers, bags, bread holders, runners in a striking palette of candy colours in stripes.

I loved the fully mechanized looms that we saw and also workers tailoring the linen into bags, spectacle cases, runners.

Just some of the things that I adored:

DESERT SYMPHONY

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Sat, 09 Feb 2013 14:26:00 +0000

One of the most interesting properties that I have visited in the recent past is the Serai ( part of the Relais and Chateaux group) which has 21 air conditioned tents set in a hundred acres of scrubby terrain in the heart of the Thar Desert, a half hour drive from Jaisalmer.

The whole resort is built out of honey coloured sandstone and pearly white canvas and the Zen- like spaces are furnished with local artifacts like tall black urns with reeds, camel statues and durries. The furniture is all collapsible and compact and every piece is packed and put in storage when the camp closes for the summer.

My swish tent suite with high ceilings and windows with nets had a Victorian study, throw cushions in brilliant indigo, a huge bed on a stone platform and a fantasy-in-stone bathroom with two stylish basins and a rain shower.

I just loved the small details: brass service buttons to summon your personal butler or housekeeping, monogrammed paper with camels embossed on it, novels bound in vellum, leather pouches to hold a torch and a hair dryer, glass stopper decanters with citronella based products.

The focal point of the resort is an elevated infinity pool modelled on the lines of a step well or a baoli with canopied loungers on all sides

The food at the Serai was an eclectic mix of Western and Indian specialities. The menus varied with every meal, and offered a wide choice, ranging from cold soups and salads, to a Wild Mushroom risotto and traditional Rajasthani dishes. I just loved this Rajasthani Thali.

The staff was in traditional attire - with a multi-coloured saafa or turban and the managers in Khaki.

The Serai even has a Spa created by Raison d’Etre, one of the leading Spa companies in the world, housed in tents of course. My feet were bathed in a sandstone basin of warm water and in the soft glow of candlelight, skilled hands rubbed me with a ground mixture of tulsi, saffron and honey in a sesame oil base.

The best experience that I had was my own private sun downer excursion- a cross country drive on a desert jeep with a butler and driver, through small villages or dhanis with mud houses, children waving, men with turbans sitting under trees and camels munching on the ker trees.

At the end of the drive, I had my private dune, a snack table and a

drink, watching the sun go down!

IN THE GRAND BAZAAR

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Thu, 07 Feb 2013 17:29:00 +0000

I wandered through the labyrinth of streets, feasting on the colour and sheer chaos and energy of the place. I discovered a myriad shops and cafes and ogled at souvenirs, carpets, tiles, leather and kilim bags, and ornate chandeliers.

4000 shops, 61 streets, 21 entrance gates even a post office, a police station, and a mosque - this was a mind boggling exercise!

Founded by Sultan Mehmet, the conqueror, the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul may be one of the first shopping malls of the world.

From Ottoman times, historically each street, alley, of the bazaar was dedicated to a particular craft or item, and they still bear those names.

I got used to the aggressive shopkeepers shouting out to me at regular intervals!

Hello, you Indian, Bollywood? I have a cousin there!"
"Are you lost??"
“You want to buy Turkish carpet?”
"You want to see some lovely tiles in my shop?"
"Would you like a cup of coffee?"

The architecture- tiled arches and decorative touches and the sheer colour makes a visit to the Grand Bazaar worth it. Touristy it may be, but photo ops galore!

Some things which caught my eye at the Bazaar

Finding Your Way around the Grand Bazaar

Its simple- just wander around, prepared to get lost...there are exit signs everywhere so fear not!

MY TOP 10 TRAVEL MOMENTS OF 2012

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Fri, 21 Dec 2012 10:07:00 +0000

Well it’s that time of the year when I look back and am really grateful for all the exciting opportunities that came my way. It’s difficult to narrow it down to just 10, but here goes:

1. Floored by the living root bridges of Meghalaya

My first foray into North east India was rewarding to say the least. The living root bridges of Meghalaya are famous now – feats of bio engineering where organic bridges were inventively built by natives which would not deteriorate with time but instead grow stronger. I trekked to see these bridges which look like a set out of Avataar or the Lord of the Rings with their lattice of twisted roots and filled with rocks and stones on top to actually look like a constructed bridge! Also enjoyed the sight of Mawlynnong touted to be the cleanest village in Asia!

2. On a high in Bordeaux

When I landed in Bordeaux, France to attend the Bordeaux Fete du Vin, a biennial event, I felt totally unprepared to handle the aristocratic French, who sniff and swirl wine from birth. But in the next few weeks I not only managed to learn a little about wine, but also travelled through the fascinating Basque country with pretty seaside towns like St Jean de Luz and Biarritz. I visited Chateaus, small medieval towns like Saint Emilion famous for its macaroons, stayed in boutique hotels, and drove through some really spectacular landscapes. France, I am not done with you yet!

3. Bonding in Greece

My usual summer mom and daughter trip was to Greece this year filled with many memorable highlights but the most defining moment was my first glimpse of Meteora- Greek orthodox monasteries situated precariously on rock pinnacles. Icons and paintings, a life of isolation and contemplation, this was a place that I felt truly blessed to be able to visit. This was followed by an experience of Greek island life in Santorini and Mykonos as well walking through history in Athens. We faced an unusually cold April, cancelled ferries and flights, but nothing could spoil the magic of Greece for us. Firmly on my list of places to re-visit.

4. Architectural high in Segovia, Spain

My first trip to Spain had many memorable experiences but the first sight of an ancient Roman aqueduct standing tall in the middle of Segovia was pure magic. Segovia flanked by two rivers, with its distinctive Moorish architecture in honey coloured stone, the Rapunzel Alcazar castle, the bizarre suckling pig dishes, amazing pottery and art was a trip into fantasy land. The trip to the countryside around Segovia, a rafting trip on the Duraton River and spotting colonies of vultures was also a fascinating experience.

5. Humbled by the Victoria Falls, Zambia

Africa is the new Europe for me. Full of amazing experiences...The largest sheet of falling water, one of the seven natural wonders of the earth, twice the size of the Niagara Falls, 546 million cubic metres of water per minute- all the superlatives don’t do justice to the magnificent phenomenon that the Victoria Falls is. Walking through a rain cloud, drowning in the torrential downpour with the surround sound of the thundering roar of the waters and walking on the rim of the falls is something that was unforgettable. The stay at the plush Royal Livingstone on the very edge of the falls was another great experience by itself. The crowning glory was my micro light flight over the falls with my heart in my mouth, but yes glorious!

6. Adventure in Animal Kingdom

Australia remains on my list of favourite countries. This year one of my top experiences was my sojourn in Kangaroo Island, South Australia, a pristine stretch of beaches, prolific wild life, and some great fresh food. I loved the remarkable Rocks- great rock formations, the Seal Bay with Australian sea lions and spotting goannas, kangaroos and echidnas. Visiting a honey farm, discovering local artists, feeding pelicans and enjoying the stunning location of Southern Ocean Lodge on cliff top location were some highlights of this trip.

7. Bewitched by Baden Baden

My travels took me to a string of Spa towns with ancient Roman Baths and a spa culture in South West Germany. The winner of the lot was quaint Baden Baden, filled with parks, a historic casino, a Faberge Museum and even a Vintage Car rally. We walked through the town studded with some stunning architecture, took a funicular to the steepest mountain here, soaked for hours in a Spa and made some amazing friends.

8. In the shadow of the largest monolith- Ayers Rock

This was a visit I dreamt of for a long time, and when I was finally in the shadow of the great Uluru, it was nothing short of pure magic. Walking around the rock, I saw myriad life forms, rock paintings and listened to various myths and legends. My hotel Longitude 131 had an amazing front seat location to the Rock. I trekked in Walpa Gorge, enjoyed dot art galleries and soaked in the tranquillity and remoteness of this location. This for me was truly the spiritual heart of the Australian continent.

9. Fifty shades of Blue

My visit to the lowest, flattest country in the world, Maldives was spectacular. Being pampered at Ultra luxe properties like the Dusit Thani and Anantara as well as a peek into life beyond the resorts, a shot at snorkelling, catching sight of amoebic blue blips of ring shaped coral atolls called faroes, from a seaplane, were all unforgettable experiences. Dolphin watching, a cocktail party knee deep in water, fabulous food, what’s not to love? The only disaster of the year happened towards the end of my trip- dropped my brand new SLR camera into the ocean and learnt a very costly lesson!

10. Pursuing happiness in Bhutan

I finished the year with a bang. In Bhutan- the Land of the thunder Dragon, with a glorious view of the highest mountains in the world. Chortens, prayer wheels, fluttering prayer flags, mist shrouded mountains and plunging valleys, spicy food, maroon robed monks and a riot of colour and artistry this was truly a great finish to the year. The pristine landscape, the warmth of the people and the spiritual vibes of this country totally enchanted me. On my next wish list for Bhutan is Bumthang touted to be the Switzerland of the country.

I re-visited Tallinn, one of my favourite cities in Europe again and also took a peek into Lithuania and was suitably rewarded by beautiful Vilnius filled with steeples and spires, culture and fabulous cuisine. I re-visited Italy and visited fascinating Naples for the first time. Would love to go back there someday along with Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast! That’s what next times are for right?

For everyone reading, I have to say that it’s powerful to write a list like this for yourself and reflect back on everything you’ve done in the past year (not confined to travel) that’s brought you great happiness. Happy travels in 2013!

Lost in the Palace of the Lost city

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Fri, 30 Nov 2012 05:35:00 +0000

I am generally not a fan of man- made wonders. But I was in South Africa recently and was overwhelmed by the incredible Palace of the Lost City in Sun City. This over-the-top creation is nothing but grandiose. You can stay busy in this man- made extravaganza for days.

I opened my windows to tribal- style cabanas and a swimming pool with a giant sun mosaic, water spouting out of seashells and waterfalls roaring from every corner.

The rotunda ceiling in the lobby with a jungle motif alive with animals and birds was created by five artists ‘in the same way as Michelangelo painted the Sistine chapel!

Stone lions and cheetahs stare from the rooftops, there are colonnades, gigantic chandeliers and soaring arches, wherever you look. The theme is based on a legend of a North African tribe which built its city here and which was destroyed in a volcanic explosion- a lost empire which was re-created out of the dry bush veldt.

The details astounded me: 6500 light fittings, 50,000 square metres of carpets, a table made from eight different kinds of wood costing 3. 5 million rand, tapestries woven by two women from Swaziland over two years and 3400 square metres of murals all creating a fantasy land of gargantuan proportions!

This is the most famous resident celebrity- a life- sized bronze model of Shawu, one of Africa’s most famous tuskers of the Kruger National Park re-created by the South African sculptor Danie de Jager. Shawu with his leathery skin and cracked feet had the most massive ivory tusks in Africa and died of old bullet wounds in 1982.

Mounds of cereals, luscious piles of fruits, quails eggs, cheeses that could feed a continent, a waffle station-the breakfast spread in the massive over-the-top Crystal Court, is fit for a king.

Looking down from the King’s Tower at the panoramic views of the resort, with its lush vegetation and water bodies, I find it hard to believe that it was a rocky near-desert plain twenty years ago.

We learnt to Segway around the property, trying to balance and enjoy the views of the Gary Player- designed golf courses, one with leathery crocodiles sunning themselves in a pit at the 13^th hole.

To taste raw Africa outside the resort we took a trip to the 550 square kilometre Pilanesberg Game Reserve just outside the resort, set in the crater of an extinct volcano and even spotted the Big 5!

Is the Palace brash and commercial? Yes..but it must be seen to be believed! Great for families with kids, as there are lots of activities that can keep them occupied.

Time warp at Ahilya Fort

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Sun, 04 Nov 2012 05:06:00 +0000

One of the most atmospheric hotels that I have been to is the Ahilya Fort Hotel in Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh.

Ahilya Fort was built in the simple Wada style of Maratha architecture- with wooden pillars and supporting beams made of lime and bricks. Today, part of it has been converted into an atmospheric and intimate heritage hotel with fourteen tastefully decorated rooms by Prince Richard Holkar, her descendent and the son of the last Maharajah of Indore.

The hotel is a splendid maze of low, white washed buildings, hidden terraces and turrets, corridors and lush gardens.

Rattan furniture painted black and white, wooden ceilings, piles of books almost everywhere-on eclectic subjects from history and art to philosophy and fiction, an internet room with an antique door, two adorable pugs called Yoda and Alhambra...the ambience created is warm and cosy.

Gods and goddesses smeared with vermillion, urns and planters filled with flower petals, paintings of local scenes and sepia photographs of the Holkar family all create a back-in-time feel…

Each room is unique and is named after the tree that it overlooks-I am in the Gulmohar Room with a lounger and antique desk, soft Chanderi quilts on my bed, marigolds in brass vessels and old style fans. The bathroom has modern plumbing but the endearing details continue- a brass bucket and lota with rough stone floors.

Delicious meals are served alfresco in different places- in the terrace overlooking the Narmada or the courtyard garden of the erstwhile cow shed or the lush Poshakwada filled with greenery.

Come night, Ahilya Fort takes on a bewitching look. Oil lamps are lit everywhere, casting small, warm pools of orange light and creating a dramatic stage for aperitifs.

There is the Lingarchan courtyard where Ahilya Bai used to conduct prayer services and had hundreds of Shiva lingams...today it has two quaint rooms called Neem and Imli with window seats that have panoramic views of the Narmada.

I took a boat ride on the Narmada at sunset and was bewitched.

FOOTBALL FEVER

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Mon, 01 Oct 2012 04:33:00 +0000

When I was in Madrid a couple of months back, I took a tour of the iconic Bernabeu Stadium, the home of Real Madrid, for an insight into the heady world of football. Though I am not a great football fan, I knew that I was on hallowed ground.

The Santiago Bernabeu Stadium owned by the Real Madrid Company is an amazing stadium seating over 80,000 spectators and the backdrop of some iconic victories.

I first took a glass elevator to the stadium’s upper concourse which is 50 metres above the pitch and got a a bird’s eye view of the stadium. I imagined the roars of the screaming fans as a crucial goal is shot...

The tour took us through the players locker rooms and the the player’s tunnel.

We walked around the pitch...Seeing the turf at ground level was an incredible experience!

You could even sit in the ‘ bench’ and imagine you were a Real Madrid Player...

This is the press room where players are interviewed after a match.

We visited the museum and trophy packed with lavish trophies, shoes and jerseys showcasing the team’s long history.

And ended up in the store for some retail therapy!

IN THE WORLD’S WINE CAPITAL

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Wed, 26 Sep 2012 10:48:00 +0000

One of the highlights of the year was my visit to France to attend the Bordeaux Fete du Vin.

Bordeaux is a beautiful city, in France, on the Garonne River. Its derelict warehouses and littered quays have been cleaned up and it has emerged out of it reputation as a gritty city. Futuristic trams whiz by and limestone facades, stone mansions and beautiful balconies make it a gorgeous city to walk through. Today it has one of the largest urban areas on the UNESCO List.

The Wine Festival had some quirky larger than life wine bottles designed by artists from Hongkong. There were more than 80 appellations that had stalls along a two kilometre stretch next to the river.

There were special tastings of the Grand Crus wines- the absolute Holy Grail of wines with a passport to note down the tastings. My kit had a glass and holder which you could take to each stall for a tasting.

Every night there was a fabulous fireworks display and a sound and light show which was projected on the buildings of the Place de la Bourse.

We explored the city and discovered some exquisite churches and grandiose buildings and parks. I loved these mascarons- faces in stone that you find above each door and windows of old buildings.

This is the attractive Esplanade des Quinconces, with statues of philosophers like Montaigne and an ornate fountain.

One of my favourite places in the city was the Le miroir d’eau, a shallow pool with water jets that reflected the classic Place de La Bourse with kids and pets splashing about in the puddle.

Another atmospheric place that I visited was the Cafe Utopia housed in a 17^th century church. It is also a cinema and art complex which screens alternative cinema. They serve gargantuan platters of salads and baguettes.

Bordeaux has one of the finest flea markets in the shadow of the Saint Michel Church with vintage furniture, clothes and bric a brac. I spent a lovely morning browsing through the clutter.

On a completely different note I loved Rue Catherine, supposed to be one of the longest pedestrianised shopping streets in Europe full of boutiques and shops.

I also walked through a colourful food market beside the Garonne River where people stood in queues for oysters.

LIFE IN A ROMAN PIAZZA

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Wed, 20 Jun 2012 02:53:00 +0000

When the ancient Romans built their towns, they began with a grid based on two roads and where they crossed was considered sacred ground. Here there was a majestic temple, a civic forum and shops. Today, in Rome, an Italian piazza is still the centre of public life, a mosaic of the colour and vitality that this city represents.

Our favourite piazza is the gargantuan Piazza Navona in Rome, thronging with life night and day. This piazza is ringed by brown and umber buildings, three magnificent fountains, and filled with caricature and portrait artists, buskers, and flocks of pigeons, street shows and fashionable alfresco restaurants. This used to be a stadium- the scene of Chariot racing, medieval jousts and games during the reign of Emperor Domitian.

The largest fountain here is the Quattro Fiumi, by Lorenzo Bernini, where there is an ancient, red granite obelisk, and four figures, representing the rivers in each of the Continents. According to a local story, Bernini carved the arm of the statue lifted up, to avoid seeing the church, which had been constructed by his arch rival Borromini!

A walk from the Piazza Navona takes us to the famed Da Bafetto Pizzeria for a genuine wood fire pizza. Crammed in a table with many others, it’s short on ambience but more than makes up in taste.

Opposite the Pantheon is the Piazza Della Rotunda. Like all self-respecting squares, it has a fountain too. Sparkling water spouts out from grotesque masks and elongated dolphins, topped by an ancient Egyptian Obelisk, designed by Giacomo Della Porta in the 16^th Century. This magical square, lined with cafes and gelato shops, is a favourite hangout of the young at night.

I also fell in love with the Piazza di Spagna with the iconic Spanish Steps where, Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn meet, in Roman Holiday, after an adventurous but chaste night spent together.

The vibrant Piazza Del Popolo was for centuries, the northern entrance to Rome. This big oval piazza has an imposing, three thousand year old Egyptian Obelisk brought by Augustus, and fountains that represent the four seasons. This is the favoured local spot for political rallies, open air exhibitions and concerts due to its dimensions. The church of Santa Maria Del Popolo is tucked into the gates of the piazza with two Caravaggio masterpieces and the Chigi Chapel designed by Raphael (remember Angels and demons?)

A day at the Elephant Orphanage

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Sat, 26 May 2012 03:10:00 +0000

We are at the Pinnewala Elephant orphanage about two and a half hours from Colombo. During the many years of civil strife, the Sri Lankan government started an elephant orphanage for the elephants that had lost their mothers or been separated from their herds or injured. Many elephants were injured by stepping on landmines as fallout of the civil war. The farmers in villages keep out the marauding wild elephants by means of deep ditches. Sometimes baby elephants get trapped here and separated from their herds.

Elephants are used on all occasions of pomp and pageantry like the Kandy Perehara. During the times of the Sinhala kings, the elephants were protected completely by a royal decree and the punishment for killing an elephant was death. An estimated 3000 elephants lived in Sri Lanka before the arrival of the British in 1815. In the 1960s this was close to extinction!

There are more than 60 elephants at the orphanage. There are volunteers here who learn the nuances of elephant care over two to three months like feeding, giving them a wash in the river and grooming them.

The little ones are fed infant formula; the others are fed about 75 Kg of green matter everyday. We watch the elephants trundle down the dusty road in disciplined rows to the Maha Oya River led by their mahouts. The road is lined with souvenir stalls and curious tourists who watch the elephants and their antics. Once they are in the river they splash and gambol in the waters and the mahouts scrub them. The younger ones are the crowd-pullers as they hide beneath their mothers or cover themselves with a mud-pack, eliciting cries of “Awww, he’s so cute!” from the groups of Japanese and British tourists!

We hear that the rehabilitated elephants and those born in captivity are sent to other wildlife parks in the country or gifted to temples. There are elephants which have even been sent to foreign zoos.

We see a board advertising elephant dung paper and intrigued we enter the shop. There are sheets of paper, gift bags, wine bags, gift tags and even small storage boxes all made out of the elephant poop. The friendly owner explains that since the elephants are poor digesters of their food like bananas, fruits and leaves nearly 60% of what they eat is excreta!

Green Haven

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Fri, 11 May 2012 02:33:00 +0000

One of the most unique hotels that I have stayed at was the Kandalama Hotel, in Dambulla, Sri Lanka…

Apparently the design kept to the natural topography of the rock face. No rocks were injured during the building of the hotel; instead rooms and corridors were built around them!

The Kandalama Hotel is one of the world’s first eco-friendly hotels built much before ‘going green’ was fashionable. It was the brain child of genius architect and design guru the late Geoffrey Bawa.

Though it’s seven storeys high, it’s almost invisible from a distance as it has been sensitively fitted to its surroundings and covered with ficus, grass and jungle creepers.

It has won many awards and was the first hotel in Asia to receive the prestigious Green Globe 21 certification.

The rooms seem to be a natural extension of the verdant forest around as Hanuman langurs shriek and chatter, peering into our rooms from a ledge. The bathroom has a Jacuzzi facing a glass window with spectacular scenery outside and we voted it the best ‘bathroom with a view’.

We took a boat ride on the ancient Kandalama reservoir, and were astounded by the boatmen’s rich knowledge of bird life on the lake- Brahminy kites fly in the thermals, fish eagles swoop down on their daily catch, egrets and cormorants sit in the rushes, bee-eaters and colourful orioles flit by and the magnificent flight of the hawks is mesmerizing in the burnished gold of the setting sun.

Our days at the hotel were busy. The hotel has the unique distinction of being within the Cultural Triangle of Sri Lanka and is surrounded by UNESCO World Heritage sites. We visited the Dambulla Rock caves filled with frescoes and Buddha statues one day, and trekked up to Sigiriya, the ancient pleasure palace of King Kashyapa the next.

Prehistoric mystery...

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Fri, 27 Apr 2012 17:41:00 +0000

There are places that cast a spell on you.. Newgrange is on that list. A pagan dream of esoteric ceremonies and mystical dances. Time and space frozen into stone... Newgrange which is a 30 minute drive from Dublin, Ireland, is older than the Pyramids and Stonehenge..

Newgrange is part of a heritage trail in Ireland, called Bru na Boine which includes the burial mounds of Knowth, Douth, and the Hill of Tara among others.

The Newgrange site sits perched on a hill in the Boyne Valley with lush green pastures and hills all around.

The exterior of the mound is decorated with 97 large kerbstones(that are carved with intriguing spiral designs).

This tomb is called a passage tomb because of the long corridor leading to a central burial room. Were these sacred temples or astronomical observatories? Or territorial markers? Or were they a pagan homage to the seasons? Nobody knows for sure.

Our guide, Karlos warns us that those who are claustrophobic should think twice...We crept into the narrow passage, squeezing ourselves between closely placed rocks. The path went on a slight incline and then widened into an inner burial chamber built in the shape of a crucifix.

The overlapping stones form an intricate conical roof and have been packed with burnt clay and sand. For millennia, the roof has been intact and kept the inner chamber dry.

Many of the stones are decorated with ancient art- symbols like triangles, waves, spirals, lozenges and circles. Karlos tells us that this place has two thirds of all the known Neolithic carvings and they are similar to Aboriginal representations found in other parts of the world.

Maybe they represent symbols from nature: the sun, sky and the air?

Newgrange is famous for its winter solstice when the rays of sunlight enter the roof box at the entrance, crawl into the passage, and fall on the inner chamber, illuminating it with golden light- the event lasts just 17 minutes. This incredible event is a great tourist attraction and tickets are sold by luck-of-the-draw lottery.

48 hours in Ho Chi Minh City

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Tue, 24 Apr 2012 04:51:00 +0000

Chaotic motor scooters, old wizened women with baskets on yokes, high rises rubbing shoulders with eclectic colonial architecture,luxe shops and bustling local markets and ubiquitous street food, Ho Chi Minh city in Vietnam or Saigon as it was called, is a frenetic city with an infectious energy.

We first visited District One which has most of the main attractions. Here is the Neo classical Municipal theatre and the Caravelle and the Continental hotels. The Continental Hotel was the haunt of writer Somerset Maugham and the setting of Graham Greene’s novel.

The Notre Dame Cathedral standing in the heart of the government quarter on Dong Khoi, with a large square in front is dominated by a statue of the Virgin Mary. It is a piece of colonial France with bricks from Marseilles and glass from Chartres!

I loved the General Post Office close by built by none other than Gustave Eiffel. This has an old world ambience with a glass canopy, vaulted ceiling, vintage maps and old-fashioned telephone booths. Send a postcard by snail mail from here to your loved ones!

For a dose of local culture we watched a traditional water puppet show at the Golden Dragon Theatre. The water puppet show dates back to the 11^th century and had its beginnings in the delta of the Red River where flooded paddy fields became stages. The stage is set on murky water and the puppeteers are behind a bamboo screen manipulating a complex system of strings and bamboo poles. The shows retell local folk tales whose storylines and humour are universal.

We visited a lacquer factory to see patient workmen using crushed duck’s egg shells and mother of pearl inlay to create masterpieces.

For a glimpse in to the city’s troubles past we went to the Re-unification palace, a 60’s style building which used to be the residence of the South Vietnamese President. This was where the communist tanks stormed the gates victoriously during 1975. There are boat shaped tables, carpets with dragons, regal staircases, receiving rooms with red chairs and heavy drapes.

Local Transport- cyclos outside the market.

For our dose of retail therapy we headed to the chaotic BenThanh market which sells cheap material, glitzy ao dais, baskets and crafted bags, even roasted coffee beans. Bargaining is de rigueur here and a great place to pick up laquerware, snake wine, silk and silver jewellery.

Loved this set of Vietnamese musicians in soapstone that I bought! Reminds me of this atmospheric city whenever I look at it....

Water therapy...

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Fri, 20 Apr 2012 03:30:00 +0000

One of the strangest places that I have visited is Karlovy Vary in the Czech Republic. This town’s therapeutic mineral springs attracted the rich and famous- its visitor’s book reads like a roll call of honour for the great people of their times like Goethe, Mozart, and Chopin.

We walked through a handsome boulevard in the centre of the town, where pastel Art Deco and Nouveau buildings festooned with shapely balconies, (many of them converted in to designer shops and hotels) competed for attention on both sides of the river.

The Grand Hotel Pupp

Our wedding cake- like Grand Hotel Pupp felt like the sets of a period drama- a Baroque excess with glittering chandeliers and red velvet panelling that has starred in several movies like Casino Royale and the Last Holiday.

Classic pavillions

There are pavilions and colonnades that dot this spa town. The Mill Colonnade is a long outdoor walkway built like a classical Greek temple with graceful columns

Small kiosks sell the special Karlovy Vary cups which look like miniature watering cans to drink the special water from the springs- the porcelain cups have a straw built in to the handle.

The typical cup for drinking the water

Spa junkies

The taps with the spring water- the board tells you the temperature of the water.

Elderly people walk around clutching a stylish cup, filling it at the fountains and sipping on it in between their spa treatment appointments.

The Sprudel

There is the giant geyser called the Sprudel which is the hottest spring here, belching scalding hot water and steam, 49 feet into the air at 72* centigrade enclosed in a giant glass building.

There are three things that are sold almost everywhere: the first is the ultra- thin wafers in different flavours called Oplatky which are meant to be nibbled on between sipping on the spring waters.

The other is the famous Czech drink Becherovka also referred to as the ‘thirteenth spring’ which was invented by a pharmacist in 1807 and whose recipe is still shrouded in secrecy.

Moser Glass

The third thing is the famous lead-free Bohemian crystal which was first made here by Ludvic Moser in 1857. Visiting the Moser factory on the outskirts of the town, we were treated to a display of glass blowing. Every famous person owns a Moser glass...

Its heart in the right place!

noreply@blogger.com (Kalpanasunder) — Sun, 08 Apr 2012 11:50:00 +0000

One of the most ethereal places that I have been to is Bergen in Norway. This is the gateway to the fjords and most people spend just a day here. But I would recommend at least three days soaking in its charm .

A spectacular setting of blue ocean, towering mountains and the rugged fjords, Bergen is a city that grew around its harbour. Bryggen is the historical centre of this maritime city- a picturesque Unesco-listed area of reconstructed medieval homes and warehouses converted in to shops and cafes.

We visited the Hanseatic Museum, an erstwhile office of a Hanseatic trader re- created with meticulous details. The house with creaking floorboards has dark, cramped rooms which used to be home to merchants and their apprentices. They resembled the cabins of a ship with space saving furniture and beds that were tucked away neatly behind cupboards.

I always try to get a bird’s eye view of a place that I am visiting...The quaint Floibanen Funicular hauled us 1050 feet in a flat seven minutes for a spectacular view of the city- the sea and sky in a stellar combination, the tiny houses like Legoland and the harbor.

We drove through the area called Klosteret with its ‘chimney houses’ which posed a great fire hazard. Since there was a law passed in the 1800s that all buildings should be built using stone or brick, many people added cement and stucco facades to wooden buildings.

Sandviken was a hillside area of steep streets with higgledy piggeldy clapboard houses in odd angles perched precariously. Some of these pastel coloured homes were more than two hundred years old!

The waterfront was home to a raucous fish market , the Torget, filled with tightly packed tents with benches and stalls with fish mongers in bright orange suits vending pearly pink slivers of marinated salmon.

Loved the beautiful tourist office which occupied the remarkable Fresco Hall at Vagsallmenningen, a historic building decorated by murals telling the story of Bergen.

Saw these adorable school children at the local Aquarium.

This city bills itself as: "A city with its feet in the sea, its head in the skies and its heart in the right place." I could not agree more!

TIP:If you go to Bergen, don't forget to pack a sturdy umbrella. And your raincoat. For this place has 270 days of rain in a year!