On The Rock

On The Rock - A short travel magazine about adventures in Newfoundland

2014-03-13T18:38:00.003-04:00

Me - The Freelance Adventurer

In 2012, my girlfriends and I set out on a two week adventure to Newfoundland. I have documented our entire trip on this short magazine-blog. On it you can find a two week itinerary, advice for ferry travel, details on places to eat and stay, and more! The blog was so successful that I decided to continue writing about travel. My current blog The Freelance Adventurer details everything from my local New England Travel to adventures abroad. Check it out at www.freelanceadventurer.com and like it on Facebook!

Thank you for visiting my journey through Newfoundland. Please feel free to contact me with questions and contacts.
- Lindsey Hansen, The Freelance Adventurer

Reflections by Lindsey Hansen

2012-08-22T12:49:00.000-04:00

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photo by Leanne De Craene

Reflections by Lindsey Hansen

Six years ago, three 20-something girls met in the high mountains of Southern California to work for one year together at an outdoor school. Years later, we are now scattered in Maine, New York, and California with different jobs and responsibilities. Still, we’ve been able to keep our friendship alive with a yearly girls trip. This year we went to Newfoundland. We experienced adventure, fell in love with the province and it’s people, and bonded over our experience. Now, as we drive the long trek back from Nova Scotia to Kennebunkport, I’ll share my reflections and prespective of our trip.

Five Reasons why you should visit Newfoundland
Top 5

1. Hiking - Newfoundland is a hiker’s paradise. We found hiking, walking, and nature trails at every place we stopped. From the challenging Gros Morne Mountain, to the curving coastal walks of the Eastern Trail, to the simple nature trails in the many towns we stopped in, there was something for all. As an avid hiker, I really enjoyed exploring the island by foot. We discovered that the Newfoundlanders “love stairs” since many walks included steps in order to go up and down parts of the coast. We also discovered that even small towns like Trinity, Placentia, Twillingate, Bonavista, Cow’s Head, and more have town maintained trails that often have good signage and are well maintained. My favorite hike on the island was Gros Morne mountain that provided views of the fjords and Long Range Mountains.

Hiking Gros Morne

2. People – The people of Newfoundland are the friendliest you’ll find anywhere. Locals always appeared interested in getting to know us, hearing about our travels, and sharing advice. They are warm and helpful. We loved getting to know the many people we met on our travels and hope that they all know we enjoyed meeting them. We also met a lot of wonderful people who were also traveling through the province. It seems to me that Newfoundland attracts an easy-going tourist who likes to take time to chat, relax, and enjoy the magic of the province.

3. Coastline – Most of my life I’ve lived in three states: Oregon, California, and Maine. All three of these regions are well known for their dramatic and alluring coastline. It takes a pretty remarkable coastline to wow this Oregonian-Calfornian-Mainer, and let me tell you…I was wowed! The stunning beauty and diversity of the beautiful Newfoundland coastline captured my breath no matter how many coastal hikes and drives we took.

4. Wildlife – The health of an ecosystem can be measured in the biodiversity of wildlife. Newfoundland must be a healthy ecosystem because it’s land and shores are home to countless species of wildlife. Our wildlife checklist included a variety of sea birds (including puffin, gannet, and tern), moose, ptarmigan, rabbit, and bald eagles. We also know that the island is home to a thriving cod fishery and migratory whales. As a nature and wildlife lover, I appreciated the wild of the province and the home it provides for plants and animals.

Gannets

5. Music – There’s no question that Newfoundland has a rich culture and identity. We were struck by the number of homes that fly the Newfoundland flag or the Newfoundland and Labrador flags. This culture is also evident in the regions love for their local music. On first listen, it is hard to decipher the difference between Newfoundland music and Irish music, and this is because the Irish ancestory of the region has created a love of the home-land’s musical folk style. Irish/Newfoundland music is big here and can often be heard in pubs and local concerts. My favorite song from the area is called “The Islander” and originally written by Bruce Moss.

Suggestions for Travelers: I did the majority of the planning for this girls’ trip. I suggest that people considering planning or going on a similar trip take the following advice:

Gros Morne National Park

- Plan ahead. Newfoundland is dotted with small towns and villages. Certainly your plans will change as you get to know people, but it’s best to plan ahead so you at least have a skeleton of an itinerary. Car ferry tickets need to be purchased at least a month ahead of time so take the time to plan your trip.

- Give yourself at least two weeks for the “whole” island. There is no way we could have done this in less time. It’s a huge island and takes a lot of time to get from one place to another. Give yourself time to enjoy a region, talk to locals, and enjoy each spot.

- Plan for a variety of weather. Bring rain gear!

- Read my suggestions for the ferry blog post. Our return trip was so so so much more pleasant then our ride to the island.

Next Time I go:

Although I have absolutely no regrets of the trip, money and time did limit a few of our opportunities on the island. If/When I go back, I’d love to do a whale watch trip out of Witless Bay on the Avalon Peninsula. Another amazing trip would be to hike the Long Range Traverse in Gros Morne.

In Conclusion...

Quidi Vidi

I’m grateful to have friends that took time out of their packed summer, spent their savings, and trusted me to plan a trip for us. I have gathered beautiful photographs to hold onto my experience for years to come, but I think my favorite memories of this trip are the things I cannot capture in a photograph. Our inside jokes, embarrassing moments, car karaoke sessions, and giggles in the tent are sweet memories that I’ll treasure for the rest of my life.

Although we swear that we will continue to have a girl’s trip, the reality is that as we move into our mid-thirties, relationships and responsibilities take over much of our lives and the luxury of a girl’s trip isn’t always going to be a reality. We have already “lost” one of the original four girls to motherhood and it won’t be long before we loose another.

We’ll always have the adventure of Newfoundland and the wonderful time we had there. I recommend anyone looking for beauty, culture, and adventure take a trip to a green and sparsely populated island in the North Atlantic called Newfoundland, Canada.

I will end with a Newfoundland toast…

Indeed I is me old cock

And long may your big jib draw.

- Lindsey Hansen, blogger and adventure seeker.

Lee, Binz, and Court - Girls Trip 2012

I used the Frommer's Guide for most of my planning...(see link below)

Reflections by Leanne De Craene

2012-08-21T21:00:00.000-04:00

Reflections

Guest Blog by Leanne De Craene

I’m passionate about traveling and seeing the world, enjoy spending time in nature, and love learning about the different cultures of distant lands. I’m up for about any adventure that takes me to a part of the world I haven’t seen before. I love visiting islands (although I often go for the warmer ones!) and when my best friend Binz said she was planning a trip to Newfoundland, I said count me in!

Newfoundland Top 5

1. Gros Morne National Park: A remarkable landscape filled with adventurous hikes, dramatic seascapes, enticing swimming holes, delicious berries, entertaining wildlife, and delightful campgrounds. Gros Morne was a truly enjoyable stop on our Newfoundland adventure and I highly recommend a visit. The highlights of this National Park would be hiking Gros Morne mountain, the views along the trail and at the top are spectacular, and the Western Brook Pond Boat Tour, which takes you through the breathtaking “fjord” where lingering clouds with sunlight streaming through enhance the incredible natural beauty.

Gros Morne

2. Twillingate: A charming seaside village where we were first truly introduced to the culture and intrigue of the island. Even without the icebergs, this town’s appeal is unmistakable. From the local music, to the amusing dinner theater, and the lighthouse hikes to the unique Auk winery, this town is worth a visit. The locals, and fellow travelers alike, made us feel right at home and would happily tell us tales of their lives or give us tips about discoveries around the island.

3. St. John’s: What a delightful city! Though we were only here for two days, we experienced the Easternmost point of Canada, Signal Hill, Quidi Vidi Village and Brewery, George Street, and more. I enjoyed the touristy attraction of getting “screeched in,” the variety of restaurants and pubs, the catchy colorful houses that line the side streets, and the wide selection of local music to enjoy. St. John’s seemed like a low key, close knit community and not the expected feel of the “big city.”

Dinner Theater in Twillingate

4. Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Preserve: This was a short part of our trip but after a quick hike out to the point we experienced the largest population of Northern Gannets and what a sight it was! Phenomenal views of gannets everywhere we looked nesting amongst spectacular green cliffs. Even if you are not an avid birder, you will appreciate the magnificent beauty of these majestic seabirds.

Gannets at Cape St. Mary's Ecological Preserve

5. The People: I can’t complete my top five list without mentioning the locals of Newfoundland. Of the many places I’ve traveled (including several places that boast of extremely friendly natives), I’ve never met more friendly, helpful, kindhearted people than those in Newfoundland. I would like to thank all of those folks who took time out of their days to give us directions, or point out a spot to visit, or just to share their thoughts and memories with us. From one man who turned off his truck in the middle of the road in order to chat with us in Newton, to a local bartender who bought us a “jam jam” because we simply had to try it in Bonavista, Newfoundlanders are incredibly warm and welcoming.

Suggestions for travelers …

A few suggestions would be: if you are visiting St. John’s- buy a good city map, be prepared for some rainy days and some potentially very wet, overgrown hiking trails, eat Jam Jams, definitely devote some time to the smaller fishing villages, bring some of your own food (not a ton of variety in the smaller towns), taste the wealth of locally made jams and jellies (the island is full of delicious berries during the month of August), take advantage of the tourist attractions and try to go kayaking and whale watching.

Hiking on the coast of Newfoundland

When I go back…

I would love to have had more time to explore some of Newfoundland by water (kayak and boat). It would also have been nice to have some time in each place to listen to the local’s suggestions and go to some of the destinations that were perhaps a bit more off the beaten path. We heard of delicious sounding restaurants (Bonavista Social Club), spectacular hikes (sections of the Eastern Trail), close encounters with wildlife (puffins at Elliston), and small towns that were worth a visit. I would have also loved more time to listen to the music at local pubs.

Courtney and I at the Quidi Vidi Brewery

In Conclusion...

The appeal of the island is undeniable and I hope to one day return; whether it be with friends or family, Newfoundland hosts myriad possibilities. Thank you to Binz for planning such a fantastic, thoroughly researched, enjoyable trip. What a great way to spend two full weeks, with two terrific, funny, supportive friends. I had an absolute blast and would definitely visit Newfoundland again one day. The island has so much to offer and is a place of great natural beauty!

Reflections by Courtney Savage

2012-08-21T10:35:00.003-04:00

Reflections

Guest Blog Entry by Courtney Savage

Courtney's Reflections

Newfoundland was planted into my mind one year ago after meeting a seasoned couple who recently completed a 6-day bike tour around the island. They spoke of the beauty of the countryside and the kindness of the people. From that moment on I knew that Newfoundland was a far away land that I must visit. Never, though, did I think that I’d be here one year later traveling through with two very dear friends.

When Newfoundland comes to mind I automatically think of dramatic cliffs, big seas and vast landscapes. Being an outdoor enthusiast, any number of activities would suffice my adventury appetite: hiking, kayaking, biking, exploring local communities, and of course, drinking local beer. Because I had nothing to do with the planning of the trip, I was up for any kind of exploration, preferably by foot.

Newfoundland Top 5

1. Gros Morne: No surprise here- I love nature! Gros Morne was the perfect place to start our Newfoundland adventure. The park boasts a variety of ecosystems that make every day feel new and exciting. Being fond of traveling via foot, an abundant selection of hiking trails took us to the top of mountains, down to sandy beaches, through densely packed pine forests, and lastly, skirting edges of meandering creeks. There was always something to explore, and to be honest, I could have spent another week discovering the never-ending beauty and variety of this park. Honorable mention: Though this is gasoline powered, I highly recommend the Western Brook Pond Tour. This boat tour accesses an old fjord formation that once opened up to the ocean but now is landlocked.

2. Berry picking: Following along the “I Love Nature” theme, berry picking, though a simple activity, definitely makes my top 5 Newfoundland activities. This carefree activity was a delicious part of every day. Namely, the blueberries won my heart but the raspberries were absolutely delightful! Other delicious Newfoundland berries include the cloudberry (A.K.A- bakeapple), partridgeberry and crowberry.

Blueberries

3. The “Newfie” Accent: Nothing makes a place more exotic feeling than a different language, or if spoken a language same as your own, a strong and memorable accent. I have driven through much of Canada enjoying the variety of dialects and French language but the “Newfie” accent is at the top of my chart. But more importantly, it is the people speaking that truly make this place so exceptional. Without fail, every day, we had long and meaningful conversations with the locals. They were always willing to help, recommend, educate and just plain chitchat. At the end of each day we reflected on the activities done, but most of all, noted the kindheartedness of the people of Newfoundland.

4. Sampling Newfoundland’s finest drinks: There are two activities I love in life:

1) Outdoor adventures and 2) Beer (well, wine too). It’s quite fitting, in my humble opinion, to finish a good day on foot with a celebratory beverage. When visiting a new place, I make sure to taste the local flavors. Local flavors equating to beer and wine! We decided to tour the Auk Winery located in Twillingate as well as the Quidi Vidi Brewery found in the Quidi Vidi Village of St. Johns. The Auk Winery has over 15 berry-based wines to taste ranging from 11-14% in alcohol content. If you enjoy Port wines be sure to try the Raspberry Outport (17%), which is a combination of raspberry wine and Newfoundland’s finest screech (dark rum). The Quidi Vidi Brewery is unique in that you are given samples while listening to the tour guide speak about the brewing/bottling process and the description of each beer. Their most unique beer is made of “bergie bits”- iceberg water. If you’re fond of flavorless but refreshing beer, be sure to try the Iceberg Beer. Cheers!

Quidi Vidi Brewery

5. Ferry: Traveling to and from Newfoundland is epic and exhausting- type two fun. Flying was simply out of our price range so we opted to drive to Sydney, Nova Scotia and ferry many hrs to and from Newfoundland. Why does this make my top 5? Simple—the long anticipation and excitement of arriving into a far away land. Traveling to Newfoundland via boat is step back into time in terms of transportation methods and knowing that you’re boating through seas that caused the Titanic to go down makes this experience even more exhilarating.

Suggestions for travelers … While viewing the Gannets at St. Mary’s Ecologic Preserve, the ranger told me “you don’t come to Newfoundland for the weather”. We fortunately lucked experiencing fabulous weather but there were certainly days where a raincoat, rain pant and xtratuffs (rain boots) were needed. Raingear is an absolute must for a Newfoundland adventure!

When I go back… You can’t help but dream about returning to Newfoundland while actually being there. Our trip was completely land based. Upon my return I will definitely pursue a kayaking trip. The water was notably rough but with local knowledge, proper gear, paddling experience and a good chart, a kayaking trip certainly seems feasible. Newfoundland is completely surrounded by cliffs, sea stacks, islands and big water. Not to mention marine mammals, seabirds, beautiful beaches for camping and if the season is right, icebergs!

Dungeon Provincial Park

In Conclusion... I loved every moment of this trip. We were able to explore nature, fishing towns and St. Johns giving us both a solid cultural and physical appreciation for the people and the landscape of Newfoundland. More importantly, though, it was the company kept that made this trip so special for me. Friendships make life beautiful. Traveling with Binz and Leanne provided many laughs, stories and reflections. We are so fortunate to have had this experience together. Thank you ladies and thank you Newfoundland.

Courtney with her friends

A Taste of Ireland in Newfoundland

2012-08-18T12:57:00.003-04:00

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Northern Gannet on the Irish Loop in Avalon

We traveled two days on the Irish Loop drive on the Avalon Peninsula. The landscape changed dramatically from the rest of the province – trees vanished and grassy plains emerged. The accents of the locals have a rich Irish flair and the roads hug steep cliffs overlooking a deep blue sea.

Here are some of the highlights of the Irish Loop…

Water Views at LaManche Provincial Park

La Manche Provincial Park – We enjoyed camping here one night. Many of the campsites are right on the water and fairly private. There is one comfort station with flush toilets and showers but be prepared to use the pit toilets near the campsite. Also, water is not potable and should be boiled prior to drinking. There was a lovely short hike from the campground to a swimming hole and waterfalls.

East Coast Trail

East Coast Trail – Locals we met on the Avalon Peninsula loved to suggest the Eastern Trail. This 540 km trail is divided into do-able day hikes ranging in difficulty. We accessed a section near the LaManche campground that took us to an abandoned fishing village, suspension walking bridge, and a rugged cove. The trails are well maintained and signed.

East coast trail

Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve – This is a must see on the South tip of Avalon Peninsula. A short 1.4 km walk from the interpretive center takes along the steep cliffs and coastline that rivals Ireland’s Cliff’s of Moher. The walk will take you to view the home to 24,000 Northern gannet, 20,000 black-legged kittiwake, 20,000 common murre, and 2,000 thick-billed murre. We LOVED seeing this colony.

Gannet's Nest

Accommodations and Eating… There are few places to stay and eat on the Irish Loop. Towns are very small, but each offer a few places to stay and eat. We enjoyed our fish and chips at the Gannet’s Nest near Cape St. Mary’s. We also really enjoyed Philip’s Café in Placentia, which offered a healthy and delicious assortments of sandwiches and soups and one of the best cups of coffee I’ve ever had!


Philip's Cafe in Placentia

Cape St. Mary's

If only… The Avalon peninsula is also known as a wonderful place to view whales. If time and our budget allowed, we would have loved to go out on a whale watch in Witless Bay.

Nothern Gannets

After the amazing views, hospitality, and rich culture we experienced elsewhere in Newfoundland, it was hard to imagine that the Avalon Peninsula could compare, yet we have experienced a unique landscape, rich wildlife, and warm people here as well. As this section was the last portion of our trip, we reluctantly say goodbye to Newfoundland and head toward our ferry in Argentia.

Momma and Baby Gannet at Cape St. Mary's

St. John’s Top Five

2012-08-17T19:07:00.001-04:00

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Cape Spear is one of the must see sights in St. John's, Newfoundland

Below are my top five favorite things about St. John’s, Newfoundland.

1. Cape Spear – This historic lighthouse provides a gorgeous coastline scene, two lighthouses, and is also the Eastern-most-point on the continent. You can stand facing entire North America!

Cape Spear, St. Johns

2. Colorful Homes – Following a citywide fire in 1892, the city homes were re-built in colorful row houses. The tradition has continued and today the city is a gorgeous smorgasbord of colorful homes.

Colorful row houses fill the city

3. Signal Hill – This beautiful and historic site provides a grand view of the city of St. John’s, the ocean, and the lighthouses. Take a walk down and up the +800 steps for a workout and excellent scenery.

Signal Hill and Battery

4. George Street – While traveling across the province, all the locals would tell us – “You must go to George Street!” This area is crowded with a wide range of bars, clubs, and restaurants that will fit any travelers taste. This is also a great place to hear good live music in the late hours. If you are looking to get “Screeched In”, you can do this as well.

Iceberg beer is made from pure iceberg water.

5. Quidi Vidi – Quidi Vidi (prounced Kid-ee – Vid-ee) is a village near/within the city area of St. John’s. The narrow streets around the Quidi Vidi lake feels like you are traveling back in time. The brewery provides a great tour and a little history about the area. And no…no one knows why it’s called that.

Quidi Vidi Lake

St. John’s claims to be the oldest city on the continent. It is rich in history, culture, and personality. The people are extremely friendly – much more than you’d find in a typical city. I think everyone can find something to love about this great old town!

Exploding with enthusiasm for St. Johns!

St. John’s on a Budget

2012-08-16T10:20:00.001-04:00

Colorful Row houses in St. Johns, NL

Time with friends Greg and Chels - St. John's residents

As we near the end of our trip, our funds are running low. Even though we have done this trip fairly meagerly – camping, making food, not paying for attractions- transportation has cost a lot of money in the form of gas and ferry ride. When traveling in a city, it is extremely easy to spend a lot of money on attractions, food, drink, and accommodations. We strove to not blow the last of our cash by exploring the best the city has to offer without breaking the bank. I think we accomplished this!

Accommodations:

We were fortunate to have our friends Chels and Greg to stay with in the city. This made our accommodations free. In addition we had access to a kitchen to make our own breakfasts and laundry. **Thank you to our wonderful friends for allowing us to stay mid week... Also - shout out to Greg's mom who offered to make me seal-flipper pie. Next visit for sure!

As blog readers might not have this advantage, I recommend trying St. John’s hostel scene or if traveling in July, check out the university, where you can rent a room for cheap.

Sean just finished biking the continent

Getting Around:

Cape Spear

We arrived in St. John’s from Bonavista in the early afternoon. Our first task was to try to find Cape Spear – the most Easterly point in the North American continent. We soon realized that St. John’s was NOT an easy city to navigate. We later learned that many of the roads are just old horse roads so they follow no grid system and often meander and end suddenly. Since St. John’s is the OLDEST city on the continent, we forgive it for our troubles, forked over $5 for a city map at a gas station and made our way (with difficulty) to the Cape. When hanging around downtown later in our stay, we parked just far enough from the bustling Duckworth/George/Water street so that they stopped charging for street parking. We had to walk a few extra blocks but saved a bit on parking.

Attractions:

There are many attractions in St. John’s that cost no money at all. Our favorite attractions – Signal Hill and Cape Spear cost no money to park. If you want to tour the visitor center/interpretive center there is a cost. We skimped by reading the history in our Frommer’s guide as well as online. We spent a few hours at Signal Hill and enjoyed the challenge of climbing the 896 stairs. What a workout! We had an amazing view of two lighthouses and the battery! We also met two separate groups of people who had just completed a bike tour from Vancouver, BC to Signal Hill, Newfoundland. What an accomplishment!

Signal Hill Steps

Cape Spear offered many beautiful views and cliff walking as well. Get a photo next to the sign explaining that you are on the edge of the continent. We saved money by not paying to tour the lighthouse.

Signal Hill and Battery

A trip to St. John’s wouldn’t be complete without exploring the colorful downtown. We explored Water Street, Duckworth Street, and George Street on foot and got photos of the colorful row houses. We popped into shops and tried a beer and onion rings at the Yellow Belly Brewery. The rings were great as was the rich and creamy Stout Beer. Court and I disliked the Red and Wheat ales.

A drive around Quidi Vidi village is a must for your trip. We took a tour of the Quidi Vidi Brewery which cost $10 but came with a tasting and a complimentary beer of our choice. Great tasting and got a lot of the history about the area. They also offer a rare treat of beer made from iceberg water (or as a Newfoundlander might say - Hice-berg water). I've had better beer, but the bottle is beautiful and the novelty is priceless. My favorites of the Quidi Vidi beers are 1892, Honey Brown, and Eric's.

Quidi Vidi Brewery

Nightlife:

St. John’s is known for their nightlife, George Street bar scene, and good Irish music. We experienced this on a budget by getting to O’Reilly’s early to avoid the cover and nursing two beers over a four hour period. (Beer and alcohol is expensive in the city. Most beers cost between $7 and $10!) We were lucky to hear the the band The Irish Descendents play amazing Irish and Newfoundland music. Their fiddle player Patrick was very talented.

Lee and I get "Screeched in"

Although not necessarily “budget-friendly”, Lee and I decided to get “Screeched In” at the bar called Trapper John’s. It cost $15 and after the “ceremony” we have a certificate proclaiming that we are honorary Newfoundlanders. Whoohoo!

Our trip to the big city was enjoyable and memorable. Cities can be expensive and often inconvenient for travelers on a budget, but with a little creative planning, you can enjoy this city and not drain your pockets.

Cape Spear

St. John's

24 hours on the Bonavista Peninsula

2012-08-14T21:32:00.002-04:00

Bonavista Lighthouse

Bonavista

We didn’t have much time on the Bonavista Peninsula. We had one night and had to make the most of it. I choose this as a one night destination selfishly because I have a love of lighthouses and wanted to photograph the dramatic red and white Bonavista Lighthouse. Due to wind and rain we didn’t get the wonderful walking weather we were hoping for but we did have a memorable and enjoyable 24 hours on the peninsula.

1 pm: Arrive in Bonavista from Terra Nova National Park. Once on the peninsula we took Rt 235 which passed along a rugged twisting coastline and through small fishing villages. The views were beautiful and haunting in the rain.

Dungeon Provincial Park

1:30 pm: Visit Neil’s Café on the main street in Bonavista. They serve light lunch fare and hot teas and coffees. People looking for a leisurely snack and rest will like the homemade soups and drinks and access to free wifi. The owners are very friendly. If you are looking for a speedy bite, it might not be your best choice in town as they specialize in quality products at a leisurely pace.

3:30 pm: Check into Harbourview B and B in Bonavista. Owner Albert showed us our room and was helpful and friendly.

4:00 pm: Visit Dungeon Provincial Park. This was a great visual site and also provides wonderful seacoast views. You might catch a glimpse of sea birds.

4:30 pm: Visit Bonavista Lighthouse. See PUFFINS! Enjoy the beautiful seacoast views.

Puffins

5:00 pm: Drive to the working seaport and the sight of the ship the Matthew. Unfortunately the site closed at 5pm so we didn’t get to see it, but I hear it’s very nice.

5:15 pm: Stop for a drink (or two or three or four…) and bite to eat at Walkham’s Gate Pub. We sampled Brewis, Salad, Paninis, and Pea Soup. All the food was delish! The real treat here is the homemade desserts. We tried four different homemade desserts. My favorite was the partridge berry pie with a molasses crust. Court and Leanne drooled over the homemade Jam Jams – which are two soft molasses cookies with jam filling. Thanks you Walkham’s Gate for restoring our love of molasses! Thank you also to bartender Steve for the great suggestions and conversation. We also enjoyed the live Irish music!

Evening "Lunch"

9:00 pm: Return to Harbourview B and B where we meet the other guests and enjoy a wonderful conversation with a couple from Holland, a couple from Ontario, and another group of three teachers on vacation together.

Evening Lunch at Harbourview

10:00 pm: Lunch! We didn’t know this was a thing, but apparently a night time snack can be called lunch here. Lunch consisted of cake, shrimp, crackers, tea, pastries, fresh berries, and jams. We were so full but somehow I managed to eat the delicious treats.

Homemade Jams at B and B

8:00 am: Full breakfast the Harbourview B and B. We enjoyed eggs, ham, toast, and homemade jams and berries. We loved the hospitality and fellowship offered at this place! This is an affordable stay for people not needing luxury accommodations and like to chat and meet other people. The food was wonderful. We got a lot for our money.

10:00 am: Arrive in Trinity and travel to the Skerwink trail. Hike the 5.3 km trail along gorgeous shoreline. This is a well-marked hike and worth the trek. You get gorgeous views of Trinity and its lighthouse.

View from Skerwink

1:00 pm: Leave the peninsula and head for St. John’s.

We wish we could have spent more time in this area. For history buffs, this region has a plethora of activities and opportunities to learn more about the area. I’d also like to have gone on more hikes and search for puffins and sea birds. We were told by locals and fellow travelers that we should have stopped at the restaurant Bonavista Club on our way into town. We don’t have the time to go now, but perhaps another time…

Skerwink Trail, Trinity

The Roses and Thorns of Terra Nova National Park

2012-08-13T12:42:00.002-04:00

Coastal Trail, Terra Nova National Park

Who doesn’t love roses? They have a beautiful flower and alluring aroma…But… roses have thorns too, and because they are such a loveable flower, we love them anyway even though we might get a stab now and then.

Terra Nova is a beautiful park. The scenery and overall allure of Terra Nova definitely overshadows its thorns. I’ll share my experience with both so future travelers don’t get “pricked”.

Roses

Campsite in Newman Sound

Great Camping Facilities – There are two campgrounds in Terra Nova – Newman Sound and Malady Head. We decided to stay at the larger one that has over 350 campsites. We did not need a reservation and got a nice site with water and near the restrooms. This campground provides free hot showers but does not have dishwashing stations. We checked out Malady Head and I think if/when I go back, I’ll stay here. This campground is more wooded and quiet. The Newman Sound park is great for families and trailers whereas the Malady Head is better for the quiet tenter.

Court leads the way in Terra Nova

Walking Trails – We tried a number of trails in our two nights in the park. I read somewhere that Terra Nova was a “Hiker’s Paradise”. I found this to be misleading. Many of the trails were lovely but didn’t provide the diversity offered in Gros Morne. Here are some hikes I recommend trying:

- Coastal Trail – This is a trail between the Newman Sound Campground and Visitor Center. It passes through woods and pops out into multiple small beaches and coves. It is 9 km round trip and an easy grade and family friendly.

Sandy Pond Trail

- Malady Head Trail – This trail is accessed from the Malady Head campground. It is moderately difficult and includes going over some hills to get up to a nice viewpoint of the peninsulas jutting into ocean. This is 5 km total, moderately difficult, and family friendly.

- Sandy Pond Trail and Beach – This is an easy boardwalk style walk around the pond. On the sunny day we visited it, the beach was a bustling scene of families enjoying the sunshine and water.

Court on the Coastal Trail

Blue Hill – Make the trip up to the highest point in the park. Blue Hill can be accessed off the Trans Canada Highway and is a gravel road to the top of the mountain. We parked at the first lot and walked the rest, but you can drive to the summit. There were lots of blueberries on the top.

Visitor Center – The visitor center in the park is a lovely building that has a fantastic interpretive center including a touch tank and theater.

Touch Tank in Visitor Center

Thorns

Not everything was up to our expectations in Terra Nova. Although we enjoyed our stay, there were a few thorns.

Staff could not identify the jellies everywhere in the water

Outport Trail – We planned on hiking the 23 km round trip hiked to Mt. Stamford on the Outport trail, but after 1.5 km of hiking though overgrown blueberry bushes we were scratched and soaked and had to turn around. This might be different for other travelers but we weren’t impressed.

Signs and Directions - Poor Signage in campground led us to get confused on where to access trails and parts of the park. This is compared to Gros Morne where the trails were abundant and clear. We were not given a campground map when registering for a site because they were “all out”.

Lack of Knowledge by Staff - Campground and visitor center rangers were friendly and eager to help however the individuals we talked to were not adequately knowledgeable about trails and local wildlife.

Thorns and all, we really enjoyed out stay at Terra Nova National Park. Two nights was just about all the time we needed in the park. Farewell Terra Nova! We'll miss you!

Beautiful Scenery on Blue Hill

The Warmth of the Kittiwake Coast

2012-08-12T19:34:00.001-04:00

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Newtown is comprised of 17 islands that once were only accessible by boat. Now bridges connect the tiny islands.

In my life, I have traveled to many places where, as a traveler, I have felt welcomed and friendly. The folk of Newfoundland are by far the kindest and friendliest people I’ve encountered. Traveling in Twillingate and down toward Terra Nova, we constantly utter the phrase “The people are so friendly here!”

In Twillingate people would ask us about our travels, where we were from, and offer advice of places to see and things to do. After talking for 30 minutes to one couple, they offered their home for us to stay in. We truly appreciate and love meeting new personalities and have really enjoyed meeting the people of this province. It is one of the things that makes it a special and magical place.

Newtown

Newtown, NL - The Venice of Newfoundland

Pretty - But the Molasses on the Lassy Bread was not my style

One town we stopped in on our way to Terra Nova was Newtown. The Frommer’s guide to Newfoundland & Labrador had a one sentence blip about how this town is known as the “Venice of Newfoundland”. This enticed us enough to add over an hour to our travels to see this wonder.

Upon arriving in Newtown we wove the car through a network of tiny house covered islands and channels and parked to take some photos. Surrounding us were piles of lobster traps, colorful dories, a beautiful church and traditional homes. I felt as though I had stepped back in time. The first person to drive past us turned off is car in the middle of the road and began a conversation. Mr. White was friendly and we enjoyed getting advice on our trip and telling him about our travels. He even told us were we could drive to see a recently beached whale!

Rebecca's Tea Room

We continued to the portion of town known as “The Barbour Living Heritage Village” where we visited “Rebecca’s Teahouse”. The women working here were dressed in colonial costumes and were some of the friendliest people I’ve ever met. I ate delicious tea and partridgeberry pie, while Lee and Court tried “Lassy Cream Bread” which was bread drizzled with molasses and cream. Unfortunately, the ladies did not enjoy the taste of molasses, but the place was so lovely it didn’t matter.

Another example of Newfoundland hospitality and helpfulness was when I was taking photos a local fellow asked if I’d seen the tourist book that uses their town as the cover. I replied I had not. He said, “Stay here” and ran home to get the book for me. A rainy drive to Terra Nova was made a bright and warm afternoon by the people of Newtown. I highly recommend you stop by!

Church in Newton

Adding To My Vocabulary…

2012-08-12T19:24:00.002-04:00

Newton, Newfoundland

Below are some new phrases and words I’ve been able to add to my vocabulary…

Ugly Stick

- Toutons – Toutons and tea were served at the Split Pea Concert. I would describe this snack/dessert as a biscuit that is covered with some sort of topping like homemade jams or molasses.

- Ugly Stick – The ugly stick is an instrument that is made from a broom handle, beer caps, a boot, and has an ugly head made from a mop or old stuffed animal. They are the strangest things but I saw them played at both the “All Around Circle Dinner Theatre” and the “Split Peas”. They are great percussion instruments and I want to make one!

- Mumming – This is a tradition where, during the Christmas season, Newfoundlanders go caroling dressed in a mask. After their song, they reveal their faces and are treated with a treat and drink – possible screech (see below). The “All Around Circle Dinner Theatre” had a skit about this tradition and our table guests Vivian and Randy leaned over and told me “We really do this!” Thanks Vivian!

- Screech – Screech is a dark rum of Newfoundland. I have not tried it yet, but plan on taking a bit home to Maine. One local I met asked if we had been “screeched” yet. Unsure of what this was, I asked. I’m still unclear on the details so perhaps a reader can help me out….I gathered it has something to do with putting your feet in ice water, handling a cod, and drinking screech. It sounds like an uncomfortable adventure.

Lobster traps in Newton, NL

Twillingate Adventures

2012-08-10T22:10:00.001-04:00

Blueberries gathered at Long Point Lighthouse

We've really enjoyed our time in Twillingate! Even without seeing the icebergs and whales this town is often known for, we feel we've gotten a lot of local flavor, met some awesome people, and filled our days with bustling activities. Here's a run down of the things we did in Twillingate. Thanks to Twillingate blog-reader Fred for all his suggestions as we used most of them!

Split Peas Musical Group - This was a truly enjoyable concert of Newfoundland songs - some folk, some original- performed by a group of seven local women. The concert was lively and fun and the music beautiful. They perform Tuesdays and Thursdays throughout the summer. We HIGHLY RECOMMEND you buy tickets early since they sold out by 10 am. We had to wait standby for tickets at the door but luckily got in to enjoy this treat. You can find more information HERE.

At the show we met a group who recognized us from our blog. So exciting! Two of the folks were musicians Owen Steel and Doug MacNearney who are performing in St. John's Saturday at the Rose. Check out these guys. Owen gave us a CD and we've been enjoying it on our long rides. I found some info about him Here.

Long Point Lighthouse - This is a beautiful place to just drive up and see or get out of the car and try one of the little hikes around the cliffs. There are large numbers of birds on the rocks and on the right day and time of year, I imagine you can see icebergs and whales from shore.

We enjoyed going to the Titanic exhibit here. It provided a lot of great information but was mostly reading/not interactive at all so probably not super interesting for kids. There was also a gift shop on the premises that serve ice cream.

Wine Tasting at Auk Winery

Auk Winery - This winery specializes in berry wines. They also have a special line of wines that are made from purely iceberg water. For $5 we took the tour and got to sample as many wines from their extensive collection as possible. It was a fantastic experience and good wine. I bought a few bottles to take back home and have been sampling them in stores and out to dinner on the trip. You can find more information: HERE.

Take Out at J and J Restuarant

J and J Restaurant - This restaurant was one of the establishments recommended by our host Wayne at our B and B. I got to check off a few of my "too eats" by getting Cod Tongues! They tasted fishy and a little chewy but were good. A Newfoundlander I met later said if cooked correctly they should be crispy and small. Still, go to J and J for deep fried fish and yummy fries. Don't expect non-fried food on the plate.

Chowder, Fries, Fried Salmon Burger

All Around The Circle Dinner Theatre

All Around The Circle Dinner Theatre - This is an evening of food, song, and skits at a community center in town. We reserved tickets one week prior. You get a choice of salmon, cod, or chicken dinner (Lee, Court, and I got one of each and shared). The dinner was three courses consisting of soup, main course and dessert. There was a cash bar available also. I really enjoyed this evening activity because we got to sit and mingle with other folks. Most of the guests our night were Newfoundlanders. Our table guests gave us the scoop on the inside jokes within the show and were wonderfully friendly.

Our B and B was great!

Echos of the Ocean B and B - This is where we stayed for two nights. Our host Wayne checked us in and gave us a map and talked about things to do in town. The breakfast was continental style and laid out beautifully each morning with choices of cereal, toast, muffins, coffee, and tea. One of the nice things about this B and B was they allowed us to have three to a room. This made it affordable for us. The rooms were clean and comfortable. They also gave us access to a kitchen and sitting area. The kitchen was wonderful because we could store food in the fridge and if we had wanted to, we could have cooked. This B and B also provided free wifi and we were able to do laundry for $6 a load. You can reserve your room via email. More information found HERE.

If only...

Surprisingly, two nights were not enough to explore everything in the town of Twillingate. If we stayed longer it would have been nice to explore more of the walking trails, go on a boat trip to see whales or cod fish, try the tea house or other food stops, and explore the galleries. I can see why many people fall in love with this town!

hiking around Long Point lighthouse

Twillingate

Gros Morne Tidbits

2012-08-10T20:42:00.000-04:00

It's always a little scary to go to a new place whether it's a park down the street from your house or city far away or a National Park in a foreign country. I always wonder how my basic needs will be met. Will there be places to get food? Gas? Shower? Wifi? (Yes.. I know this last one isn't exactly a "basic need" but I am somewhat of an internet addict.) Here are some things we discovered that can hopefully provide peace of mind to other Gros Morne travelers and help them to plan ahead and prepare for their trip...

My Basic Needs

- Gas - We got gas in Corner Brook once off the ferry and then at an Irving in Rocky Harbour within the park. Deer Lake also has extensive gas stations. Don't worry about not finding a station, but keep an eye on the tank if you are doing a lot of driving in the park.

- Showers and Hot water- Berry Hill campground had free hot showers. This was an unexpected treat for us. Don't expect them to be completely clean, but for a campground...it's nice. There was also a dish washing station near the showers that has warm and cold water. This was helpful after cooking a meal. There were no laundry facilities in the park/campground that we saw. We waited until Twillingate to do laundry.

- Electricity - There is NO ELECTRICITY for tenters at Berry Hill. Those campers, like me, who were hoping to charge their camera battery in the bathroom were out of luck. We had to take side trips to the Discovery Centre or Visitor Centre and charge our camera/phone batteries in the washrooms. Plan on bringing a car charger if you have one to avoid this problem.

- Wifi - Not exactly "basic" but for a blogger, it's important. Interestingly, the park map marks "wifi" at a number of their facilities including Lobster Cove Lighthouse, the Discovery Centre, and the Visitor Centre. Although wifi was accessible at these places, it was weak and there was no place to sit down with a computer, plug in, and type away. It was useful to walk in, update my email on my ipod/ipad and walk out though. I ended up obtaining wifi in a sneakier way by chillin out in the comfy couches in the lobby of the Ocean View Hotel one afternoon. I plugged in my laptop and typed away for about a half hour and no one questioned or bothered me. This is also a spot to hear live music or grab food at their bar/restaurant.

- Stores - there are food markets, liquor stores, hardware stores, and gift shops all in Rocky Harbour which is just minutes from Berry Hill Campground. The liquor store sold us post cards and stamps and we were able to mail them near the Ocean View Hotel at the post office.

- Toilets - Gros Morne provides pit toilets at almost every trail head. In addition, many of the trails have additional pit toilets along the trail. The Berry Hill Campground has flush toilets and showers.

- Maps - The park map gets about a B- for helpfulness. Maps are not topographic and some side trails were not present, however, most trails are well marked and provide mileage in km along the trail as well as better maps at the trail head.

- Wildlife - We were lucky to see bald eagles, moose, and birds in Gros Morne. We were nervous about driving at night because of the horror stories we've heard about moose accidents in the park so we only drove during the day. Our only scary encounter with wildlife was as we were heading down the Gros Morne Mountain trail, a family ran toward us yelling "MAKE NOISE ANGRY MOOSE". Sure enough we heard quite a ruckus in the nearby trees and ran to safety. We were fine but it got our hearts pounding!

5 things you need to do in Gros Morne National Park

2012-08-10T08:48:00.002-04:00

With four nights in the park, we had a chance to do quite a bit of exploration. Here are some things you should do when visiting Gros Morne...

Hiking Gros Morne Mountain

1. Hike. There are amazing hikes in Gros Morne National Park. Trails vary in challenge level and length so there is something for everyone. Check out the previous post "Five Best Hikes in Gros Morne" for an extensive list.

Western Brooke Pond Boat Tour

2. Western Brooke Pond Boat Tour. This 2.5 hour boat tour takes you into a freshwater fjord to travel below the cliffs of the Long Range Mountains. It costs $60 for adults but was totally worth it. Reserve tickets ahead of time (we reserved two days prior). You can reserve by calling or we went to the "Ocean View Hotel" where there is a ticket window. You do not need to pay until the day of the trip. They have three trips daily.

Lobster Cove Lighthouse

3. Lobster Cove Lighthouse. This is a gorgeous viewpoint near Berry Hill Campground. It was a great spot for a picnic lunch. Within the lighthouse is a small interpretive exhibit about the history of the area. They do have wifi at the lighthouse but no place to "plug in" and sit.

Shallow Bay Beach

4. Shallow Bay Beach. This is a gorgeous beach and a great place for swimming. Go on a hot day, bring a picnic and your swimsuit! This protected cove is a wonderful place to swim. There is a picnic area with covered and uncovered tables, water/dishwashing stations, bathrooms, and a playground.

Discovery Centre

5. Discovery Centre and Drive Rt. 431. Drive into the south part of the park. The stark contrast of the Tablelands and the Long Range Mountains are breathtaking. The Discovery Centre has information for the traveler, nice washrooms, and a beautiful deck to drink in the view.


Lee, Court, and Binz on Western Brook Pond

There are many wonderful things to do in Gros Morne and I know we probably are missing some amazing experiences. Feel free to comment below and let me know the other "must do" things in Gros Morne!

5 Best Hikes in Gros Morne National Park

2012-08-09T21:20:00.001-04:00

The hiking in Gros Morne National Park was AMAZING! We could have had a few more days to do a little bit more and we also daydreamed about doing a long range hike through the Long Range Traverse, however we did manage to do many of the wonderful hikes the parks has to offer. Here are the best ones with information on each...

Base of Gros Morne Mountain


Scree Slope up Gros Morne.

1.Gros Morne Mountain - Full Day, Challenging, Amazing Views. This hike starts in the north end of the park at the Gros Morne Mountain trailhead. If you are not a seasoned hiker, you can take part of the hike through rolling hills to the "turn around point" in the valley beneath the mountain. This still provided excellent views (See photo above). If you are traveling up the mountain, be prepared for a steep scramble up a scree slope/rock slide to the summit. Take many breaks. This scramble provides many of the best views on the hike so take many photos!

The summit is barren and flat. From the summit, the trail traverses down in to a fjord that also has amazing views. We stopped for lunch at the little hike-in campground. There are picnic tables here. This hike takes all day and shouldn't be done in poor weather.

Summit of Gros Morne Mountain

Heading down off Gros Morne Mountain

2.Western Brooke Pond - Short Hike, Easy, Amazing Views.

Even if you don't get a chance to do the Western Brooke Pond boat tour, you should hike the 6 km round trip to see the fjord. This is a flat stroll through bog on a boardwalk and ends at the "pond" with a view of the Long Range Mountains.

Western Brooke Pond

3.Bakers Brooke Falls - Medium Length Hike (half day), Easy, Waterfalls

This is accessed near Berry Hill Campground. It is a great easy hike for families and provides stunning views of the large Bakers Brooke Falls. The hike is 10 km round trip and goes through forest and bog with views of waterfalls. There are a few ups and downs. There are three views of waterfalls. Stop at the second one and head down below the platform to the rocky beach. Enjoy your lunch or snack while feeling the spray of the falls.

Bakers Brooke Falls

4.Tablelands - Short hike, Easy, Unique Ecosystem

Hiking along the base of the Tablelands we kept saying "I feel like I'm in Utah", "I feel like I'm in Southern California", and "I feel like I'm in the Southwest". This almost desert ecosystem is a stark contrast to the lush green forest across the highway. This flat and easy trail takes you to the base of the bowl of the Tablelands. We would have loved to spend more time exploring this area off trail. It is accessed past the Discovery Centre in the southern portion of the park.

Tablelands Trail

5.Green Gardens - Full day hike, Challenging (for full loop), Coastal views

Green Gardens hike is best accessed from the southern trail head. We learned this the hard way and accessed it from the northern trail head where we spent miles traveling through thick overgrown trail of thistle and poison parsnip. Still, the trail was worth it when we encountered the coast and sea stacks. This could be avoided if you don't do the whole trail and just go out and back to the coast. This hike provides gorgeous views of the coastal cliffs of Western Newfoundland.

Green Gardens Sea Stack

Honorable Mentions:

- Berry Hill Pond - Easy short hike accessed from Berry hill campground. Great sunset views of the mountains and water.

Berry Hill Pond

- Berry Hill - Short but Steep hike. Great views and raspberry picking at summit!

- Cows Head (Not national park land) - This town hike can be accessed from the "head" in Cow's Head. Follow the signs. It's well marked. The "lighthouse" and "big hill" were a bit of a let down but amused us since neither were the magnificent scenes we expected.

Big Hill

Lighthouse was a bit of a letdown.

The Ferry

2012-08-08T06:46:00.001-04:00

Looking at cars on ferry

We took the ferry from North Sydney, NS to Port Au Basques, NL. We got to the ferry almost 5 hours early, but we were able to park in line, then walk around town, get dinner, etc. They boarded 3 hours prior to departure. We were glad that we got their early because the earlier you get on, the sooner you can find a seat. Unfortunately, since we have never been on the ferry before, we didn't know which seats to choose!

We ended up choosing a set of seats by the window. An elderly couple was sitting behind us and behind them was the cafe where people could buy coffee, hot dogs, etc.

We settled in for the night in our big reclining chairs and prepared to sleep through our 6-8 hour ride. Sleep was hard to find....

The large reclining chairs were more comfortable than an airplane chair but it was still difficult to get comfortable. I also wished they would have dimmed the lights more so we could sleep. The cafe staff was loud and people continuously walked by to get food and drink. Plus the whole night we were smelling hot dogs and pizza. The worst part of the voyage was that the elderly couple behind Court had emphysema or something and was hacking loudly throughout the night then spitting their phlem onto the carpeted floor. Poor Courtney had to feel their "spray" all night. She looked for other seats but they were all taken!

We were happy to get into Port Au Basques, but tired from our journey. We drove up the coast to Gros Morne.

Advice for riding the ferry to Newfoundland...

1. Arrive early: This will ensure you get first dibs on a good seat.

2. Choose your seat carefully: Avoid children, old people, and the cafe. Choose a spot with an outlet if you want to charge devices. These are hard to find.

3. Bring a eye mask pillow/head rest, ear plugs, and blanket. It's bright and loud.

Looking forward to a better trip on our trip back.

Headed North - Kennebunk to North Sydney

2012-08-04T19:03:00.001-04:00

Waiting for the ferry in North Sydney which will take us to NFLD

Our Girls Trip 2012 has begun! Yesterday we left Kennebunkport, Maine at 6 am and headed north. We crossed the border in Calais, Maine/St. Stephen, NB and made it to our destination of Fundy National Park in New Brunswick around 3-4 pm.

We stayed in the Point Wolfe campground in Fundy. I made reservations ahead of time since it was a weekend night and I thought it would be busy. I'm not sure if it was necessary since there were still empty sites until around 6 or 7 pm. We made a yummy stirfry with the rest of our produce and got a great nights sleep.

Point Wolfe Campground

Today we continued North. We left our campsite around 10 am and with minimal stops for gas/toilet we got to North Sydney at 5 pm. Our ferry will board at 9:30 pm so we had time to walk into town and got a Subway sandwich.

The ferry dock has free Wifi so I'm able to update this blog and check out my photos so far. There is a band playing traditional Irish and Newfoundland/Labrador music at the station as well which is really fun and is definitely getting us in the mood!

The boat looks huge and I can't remember ever being on a vessel this large. We are taking some snacks, a good book, comfy clothes and our sleep bags up on deck with us. We are hoping we can get some sleep on the 6-8 hour ferry.

Point Wolfe Campground

Too-da-loo!

Updated Itinerary

2012-07-23T16:09:00.001-04:00

Casco Bay photo by Lindsey Hansen

I have been working diligently to finalize plans for my trip to Newfoundland. I've added some stays at campgrounds and B&Bs. I hope everything goes well. I decided not to reserve a spot a Terra Nova Campground because I want a tent site and the reservation system gave me RV sites. Hopefully this will work out!

I'm very excited for our night at the Harbourview B&B in Bonavista. It was highly recommended on TripAdvisor and I think we'll get a treat in meeting the local hosts!

Please take a look at my plan. I'd like to know...

(1) Are my plans doable and resonable based on time constraints, travel, etc?

(2) Am I missing anything crucial and or important?

(3) Are there any hints or must see places that I'm missing

Thank you!

Itinerary

Tuesday, July 31

- Leanne arrives in Kennebunkport - 11p

Thursday, Aug 2

- Courtney arrives in Kennebunkport

Friday, Aug 3

- Drive from Kennebunkport to Fundy National Park (camp) (8 hours)

- Fundy – Point Wolfe Campground ($36.30- Lindsey Paid)

Saturday, Aug 4

- Drive from Fundy National Park to North Sydney, NS. (7 hour drive)

- Board Ferry for NFLD – SLEEP ON FERRY

- Aug 5 arrive in Port aux Basques around 3am?

- Drive to Gros Morne (4 hours)

Sunday, Aug 5

– Berry Hill Campground, Gros Morne ($112.80 total for 4 nights- Lindsey Paid)

– Chill hiking near campsite (Green Gardens?), set up camp

Monday, Aug 6

– Berry Hill Campground, Gros Morne

– Either Hike Gros Morne Mountain or Western Brook Pond Boat Trip

Tuesday, Aug 7

– Berry Hill Campground, Gros Morne

– Either Hike Gros Morne Mountain or Western Brook Pond Boat Trip

Wednesday, Aug 8

– Berry Hill Campground, Gros Morne

– Rain Date for either Hike Gros Morne Mountain or Western Brook Pond Boat Trip

– Long hike day if not a rain date- Tablelands Trail perhaps?

Thursday, Aug 9

- Drive from Gros Morne to Twillingate. Stop at "Prime Berth interpretation centre. Go on a guided tour ($5)

- Check into Echos of the Ocean B&B (709)884-1523)Upon entering the town of Twillingate you will be on Toulinguet Street. At the end of the street (main intersection) turn Right. ($100 a night- Reserved by Lindsey)
- See Split Peas Musical Group ($10) performs at 7pm at Touton House (Orange Lodge). Laundry Services available

Friday, Aug. 10
- Stay at Echos of the Ocean B&B ($100 a night – reserved)

beach rose by Lindsey Hansen

- Visit Twillingate Lighthouse and Titanic exhibit.*
- Visit the Auk Island Winery for wine tasting ($5).
- Dinner at All Around the Circle Dinner Theatre ($30)

Saturday, Aug. 11
- Drive to Terra Nova National Park. (Space NOT reserved-)

- Malady Head Campground – secluded/more likely to get a spot

- Camp in Park

Sunday, Aug. 12

- Terra Nova National Park – Hike – perhaps Coastal Trail or Blue Hill Pond Trail leaving from the Visitor Information Marine Center.

- Camp in Park

Monday, Aug. 13

- Drive to Bonavista Penninsula

- Spend night in Harbourview B and B (21 Ryans Hill, Bonavista; 1 (709) 468 2572) ($80 a night- reserved by Leanne)

- Cape Bonavista Lighthouse

- Sherwink Coastal Trail in Trinity?

Tuesday, Aug. 14

- Drive to St. John’s

- Stay with Greg?

- Hike North Head Trail/Signal Hill National Historic Site

- Quidi Vidi Brewery ($10 tour)

- Fluvarium ($7)

Wednesday, Aug. 15

- St. Johns

- Stay with Greg?

- Explore more of St. Johns

Thursday, Aug. 16

- Drive down to Avalon and do Irish Loop

- Witless Bay Ecological Reserve

- Stay in La Manche Provincial Park ($15 a site)

Friday, Aug. 17

- Visit St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve (guided tour to bird rock $7)

- Stay Bird Island Resort

Saturday, Aug. 18

- Take ferry from Argentia at 4:30pm

Sunday, Aug. 19

- Arrive in Nova Scotia. Drive back in Kennebunkport, ME

- Stop overnight along the way?

Monday, Aug. 20

- Arrive in Kennebunkport

Tuesday, Aug. 21

- Day in Kennebunkport

- Sort Gear, Clean Up

Wednesday, Aug. 22

- Leanne leaves early out of Boston

- Courtney leaves 11:55 am Boston South Station

Newfoundland To Eat List: Bring the Antacids

2012-07-06T10:35:00.000-04:00

It's always a great idea to make "food goals" for your trip
so you don't miss out on local favorites!

I like to do a little research about the foods and drink of the places I visit. That way, you can find out the local "must eats". For example, if you go to Montreal you have to try poutine (french fries covered in brown gravy), and if you go to Maine, you have to try the lobster roll (lobster meat, mayo, on a hotdog bun).

Lobster is a common food in Newfoundland

After doing a little research, I've found that Newfoundland specializes in simple cooking of local produce, game, and seafood. I've read that many of the foods are deep fried which means my friends and after reading my "must eats" below, you'll see why I think it's important to pack the Tums.

Here is my must eats:

- Fish and Brewis - Salted Cod served with Brewis which is hard tack, softened by cooking it in pork fat with cod.

- Pan Fried Cod - Filleted cod dipped in milk and flour, browned in a skillet of port fat.

- Cod Tongue- deep fried or pan fried

- Moose/Caribou Meat

- Jigs Dinner - Feast of salt beef and boiled potatoes served often with pease pudding - yellow split peas boiled in a paste in a linen sac.

- Bakeapple Jam - bog apples/cloudberries - amber - colored berries found in Newfoundland bogs. Made into jams.

- Figgy Duff - Raisin pudding made from bread boiled in pudding bag with raisins, spices, and molasses.

Many of the food traditions originated in the UK. Foods
are often home-style and simple.

Because of the extensive amount of camping we are doing, we are also planning on packing a large amount of food with us and taking it across the boarder. This will be especially true for nonperishable food such as pasta, peanut butter, coffee, salt/pepper, etc. Cooking many of our own meals will help save money and ensure a more well rounded diet then one can achieve when eating out for every meal.

References:

Hempstead, Andrew (2012) Frommer's Newfoundland and Labrador 5th Edition. John Wiley and Sons, Inc. New Jersey

Williams, Mary (2007) "Traditional Newfoundland Food" Eastern Canada Travel @suite101. Retrieved from: http://suite101.com/article/traditional-newfoundland-food-a21689

Maritime Magic - Five Reasons Why You Should Go To Atlantic Canada!

2012-06-15T20:35:00.001-04:00

Grand Manan, NB

Work and school has kept me busy and unable to book, post, or research travel. Many apologies to those following the blog! My friends Mike and Lynna arrived on Grand Manan island today. The last three years I also have traveled to this Candian island in the Bay of Fundy. Grand Manan is one of my favorite places on earth and the reason why I want to go to Newfoundland so badly. My amazing friend Sandra who I met on Grand Manan is from Newfoundland and sparked my interest in the far off island. Grand Manan is also the reason I fell in love with Atlantic Canada in the first place.

From the first time I visited the Maritimes six years ago, I have discovered that it is a truly magical place and one that should be explored. I'd love to share the reasons Atlantic Canada is an amazing place to visit....

1. The people. Many of the maritimers I've met are salt of the earth, hardworking people who are friendly and willing to share a cup of coffee and a story.

Canada folk

2. The Coastline - There are rocky cliffs, stone beaches, extreme tides. These landscapes make this place a truly scenic wonder.

Cliffs and beach in New Brunswick

3. The Wildlife - Moose, whales, seabirds, and more. Atlantic Canada is home to many magnificent creatures that make it a wildlife watcher's paradise.

Whale Watching

Humpback Whale

4. The Lighthouses - They are everywhere. From my early childhood, I have been fascinated with lighthouses. They represent longing, adventure, solitude, and mystery to me.

Swallowtail Light, Grand Manan

5. The Unchanging - Many of the little towns along the east coast of Canada have not really changed much in a century. The homes, boats, and landscape have all stayed relatively the same. It's like traveling back into a simpler time.

Seal Cove, NB

Together, these qualities make the Maritimes a truly MAGICAL place. I know Newfoundland will build my relationship with Atlantic Canada from a warm affection to a passionate affair.

Twillingate Continued

2012-06-01T00:09:00.001-04:00

Atlantic Canada

Thanks to the advice of friends, readers on this blog, and readers on Lonely Planet forum I have revised my plans for Twillingate. The new plan includes....

Thursday, Aug. 9

- Drive from Gros Morne to Twillingate. Stop at "Prime Berth interpretation centre. Go on a guided tour ($5)*
- Check into Echos of the Ocean B&B (http://www.echoesoftheocean.net/Info.htm). This B&B is the number one recommended B&B for Twillingate on Trip Advisor and was one of the few that would allow three people in one room. It is also very affordable.
- See Split Peas Musical Group ($10) performs at 7pm at Touton House (Orange Lodge).*

Friday, Aug. 10

- Visit Twillingate Lighthouse and Titanic exhibit.*
- Visit the Auk Island Winery for wine tasting ($5).
- Dinner at All Around the Circle Dinner Theatre ($30)

Saturday, Aug. 11

- Drive to Terra Nova National Park.

If the icebergs are still present in mid-August as they were last year, we will probably also do a iceberg boat tour. I think we will skip on the whale watch this time due to cost and similar opportunities outside of Twillingate.

* Thank you to Fred who suggested the starred items on my previous post.

This plan is still being tweaked as I learn new things. We will be flexible once we arrive.

Paint weathered by Atlantic air

Twillingate..Seeking Advice

2012-05-21T17:46:00.001-04:00

If we are too late in the season to see icebergs, I hope to go
on a whale watch. I took this shot of a humpback pectoral
flipper during Summer, 2006 in the Bay of Fundy, CA

I should be working on my grad paper right now... but like most travel-fanatics, all I can think about it my trip that is still two months away!!!!

On my last post I shared my hopes for our four nights in Gros Morne National Park (the top reason I want to go to Newfoundland). After Gros Morne, the plan is to travel east to the village of Twillingate, NL. I currently plan to stay two nights in this town. My friend Chels (a resident of St. John's, NL) told me she thought this might too long in the town, but I feel like you really can't get the feel of any place in only one night.

Twillingate is part of the "Kittiwake Coast" region and an area commonly referred to as part of "iceberg alley" because of the ice that floats down Notre Dame Bay. Looking at photographs, Twillingate is a picturesque fishing village and tourist spot.

I am hoping that we can see some icebergs, but according to most tour books they are best viewed in late June and early July. I'm unsure if this means we won't see any at all or that they are just scarce. If readers happen to know, I'd love to hear!

After what could be a possibly wet camping experience in Gros Morne, I hope to reserve a B&B or inn to stay at in the town. Do any readers have recommendations of where to stay that is affordable and nice? I was thinking of staying here: http://www.echoesoftheocean.net/ because it is recommended on Trip Advisor.

My plans for Twillingate are fairly unambitious compared to Gros Morne, but my list includes:

1. Iceberg/Whale Watch Tour - Anyone know if Aug 9-11 is too late to view icebergs? Anyone recommend a tour boat operator?

Whale Watch in Atlantic Canada in 2006

2. Explore Twillingate on foot

Other ideas include...
- Spending one night at a B&B in Twillingate and one night on Fogo island
- Spending one night at a B&B in Twillingate and one night camping at Dildo Run Provincial Park

I am seeking any advice people have to give about this portion of my trip. We plan on arriving the afternoon of Aug 9 and moving on Aug 11 to Terra Nova National Park.

Better get back to my grad paper...

Gros Morne Bucket List

2012-05-16T15:02:00.000-04:00

Gros Morne National Park is one of the main reasons I want to visit Newfoundland. The photos I’ve seen of the park are just magnificent. I’m excited to experience the mountains, fjords, cliffs, waterfalls, and valleys carved by glaciers. It is rich in biodiversity and I've heard a must see for anyone traveling to Newfoundland.

As a devout hiker and seeker of remote wilderness, I believe Newfoundland’s Gros Morne is going to be one of my new favorite places.

Gros Morne Mountain - Top spot I want to go in NL.
Photo Credit: Michael Klapp, 2010

We have planned for four nights in Gros Morne (Aug 5-8). I desperately want to get the very most out of the experience. With many hiking, boating, adventure options, I wanted to have a plan of what to see and do. I found out some great info by talking to my friend Mike who has visited it before. The Frommer’s Newfoundland and Labrador guide was also helpful. In addition, I checked out the Canada Parks website that gives descriptions of each trail. Lastly, I joined the Lonely Planet website and posted some questions on the Canada forum.

All this has given me a bucket list for Gros Morne which includes:

1. Gros Morne Mountain: This is the second highest peak in Newfoundland. It is listed as a “strenuous” hike – traveling up 2,644 ft (806 m) in 5 miles. Frommer’s recommends at least 7 hours in order to hike it round trip. We need a day with a forcast of good weather (which may be difficult since Gros Morne is notoriously poor weather). This hike is reserved for either Aug 6, 7, or 8 and is TOP priority.

2. Western Brook Pond boat tour: This 2.5 hour tour was recommended by my friend Mike but it is also emphasized in every tour book/website/blog I’ve researched. Western Brook Pond is a deep fjord in the center of the park and the boat trip is supposed to provide magnificent views and as well as natural history information about the scenary. The cost is high ($56 or more) but apparently worth it. I’m unsure if reservations are needed in the high season so I will research that and find out. Does anyone reading this know? I'm scared to book it ahead of time if the weather goes bad!

3. Tablelands Trail: This trail was recommended to me by a fellow traveler on the Lonely Planet forum. It apparently provides views of the “geologic wonder…and an excellent example of plate tectonics”*

Sometimes the fog and rain makes a place more mysterious.
Boreal Forest, NH, USA

Other hikes and exploration are also a possibility but these three are currently my MUST Dos. If readers have suggestions, please comment!

I also am trying to decide which campground to stay at in the park. There are four choices and it’s very hard to decide without having been there. I’m currently leaning toward Berry Hill Campground. This is the largest one in the park and is centrally located/close to town. I’m happy to read these have shower facilities and firewood for sale. I plan on making reservations for these soon since they are supposed to fill up fast.

I've become aware that Gros Morne is no stranger to sudden changes in weather. It is often a wet, cloudy, foggy, and possibly dreary land. As a girl who grew up under the cement skis of Portland, Oregon, I do not mind the gray weather and precipitation and I are lifelong friends. That said it will be important to have proper gear, weather forcasts, and a rain-plan if the weather stops us.

Weather can turn quickly in the north country.
Plan Ahead and Be prepared. Photo of
my sister, Kelly, in the White Mountains, NH, USA

Things to bring for Gros Morne:
- Waterproof jacket and pants
- Waterproof tent with fly
- Waterproof tarp(s) to hang
- Extra warm layers - non cotton
- Synthetic sleeping bag
- Thermorest groundpad
- Hiking clothes/Hiking poles/Hiking boots
- Cooking gear for campsite
- Map, Compass, Radio

What am I forgetting?

TO DO: Book campsite and check about booking boat trip.

Onward with planning!

* Hempstead, A., Frommer’s Newfoundland and Labrador, 5^th Addition, 2012, John Wiley and Sons, Inc. Ch 8, p. 181 (see below)

Budget

2012-05-11T17:48:00.000-04:00

As second year school teacher by day, my paychecks are not the largest. Lee and Court are in a similar boat. That said, we are big savers and put travel at the top of our spending priorities. I choose not to have cable or a nice car but in return I get to go on exciting comfortable vacations.

Still, it's important to budget for a trip so you have an idea what to save for. Going into this trip, I was hoping for under $1200 per person. Here's a very tentative budget. I'm unclear on the cost of gas since Canada is sold by the Liter and prices are subject to change.

Price estimate (very rough):

Ferry - $260 per person

Gas - $150-$200 per person (dependent on gas prices

Food can be a big expense.

Camping - $60 a person (7 nights in 2 nat park divided by three)

B&B in Twilingate - $100 a person for two nights

1 night in Bonavista? - $50 a person

St. Johns - $30 - $100 (depending if we camp, stay with Chels, or Hostel it)

Food and Drink: $100 a person groceries during camping, snacks, etc

Out to Eat: $100 depending on how often - NL is supposed to be cheap dining except in Gros Morne

Boat Trip: Western Brook Pond and Iceberg Trip - $150ish

Park Fees: $60 a person (if we split a family pass for the two weeks)

Other expenses: Firewood, Museum fees, etc. $100

Total: $850 - $1100

I'm sure there are costs I'm miscalculating or missing. Feel free to chime in and share wisdom or advice.

Camping cuts the cost of overnight stays but can also cut the comfort. After a few days of camping we'll be looking for a soft bed and shower.

Transportation is the big cost for this trip. Alas, by Kia Optima does not get the best gas milage (27

mpg or so). We plan to save money by not eating out a lot as well.

As planning continues I'm sure I'll be able to get a better idea of the costs of the trip. I'll post my spending on this blog during the trip.

Continue planning...

5 Survival Skills to Traveling with Friends

2012-05-09T18:07:00.002-04:00

One beautiful fall day I decided to go for a hike up Mt. Willard in the White Mountain National Forest of New Hampshire. It was my first fall in the Whites and I was excited to experience the gorgeous fall colors of New England. I packed my daypack, drove to the trailhead, and climbed to the top. When I emerged at the summit, the view was breathtaking. I dropped my bag and stood on the cliff face. I gazed down into a deep notch of yellow, red, and gold. Cool air hit my cheek and I gasped as a hawk soared in front of me on its way to find prey. It was truly a magical moment. I looked around, wanting to say, "How lucky are we right now?", or "Have you ever seen something this beautiful?", or even just share a knowing glance with a stranger. I realized I was all alone. There was no one to share this amazing experience with. I ate my granola bar, picked up my daypack, and headed back down to my car.

Fall colors in the White Mountains, NH

I'm glad I took a hike that day. It was an amazing experience, but I also realized something: It's sometimes more enjoyable to have an amazing experience if you can share it with someone. I know many people who might disagree. Who might think that a solo experience is more rewarding, but for me, there is value in turning to each other and saying "Can you believe that?" and years later recounting the amazing story. It is for this reason, I prefer to travel with friends.

Traveling with friends can be challenging. Everything from controlling the radio dial, to picking a dinner location spot, to deciding what time to hit the sack will become a negotiation. It's rare to find a friend who has the same tastes, habits, and travel behaviors as yourself and even if you do, problems will undoubtably arise. Long and complicated trips add additional stress on relationships. Personality quirks can become troublesome annoyances and tiny battles can become full-on-wars. Over the years, Lee, Court, and I have experienced our share of disagreements on our girls trips, but we have successfully managed to maintain close relationships and eagerly plan new trips together every year.

Summit of Mt. Willard
on a fall day.

If you want to maintain healthy friendships and be good travel-buddies, follow these 5 survival skills:

1. Make a plan... It's ok to leave some things up to the last minute, but making plans -especially for a long trip- can relieve stress at the destination and free up time for exploration. Many people live by the philosophy that you should show up somewhere and simply explore. This is fine for one person, but with a friend or more, it's important to have an itinerary to relieve stress and confusion at the travel destination.

2. Be flexible... One of the downsides to traveling with friends is that it's not all about you. On a girls trip to New Zealand, my friend Lee expressed that she wanted to go to the beach for the afternoon. "And do what?" I asked - thinking we could walk, get ice cream, or even look for shells. "Just lay out on the beach and relax!" she said. This was not my idea of a good time, but since the day before she had gone to a bird colony with me, I realized that this trip was about the both of us having a good time. I spent an afternoon with Lee sunning myself and reading a book, and it was a surprising highlight of the vacation. Traveling with friends means compromising so everyone can have a good time, and who knows, maybe you'll find enjoyment in something you didn't expect.

3. Talk budget... It's not always a comfortable subject, but it's important when entering a trip with friends that you have a clear understanding of your spending expectations. I've heard many horror stories of friends traveling together and one insists on 4 star dining and high class shopping while the other prefers to eat in and enjoy low cost activities. It's okay to travel with someone who differs in their spending taste as long as there is clear communication about expectations and compromises are made.

Lee and I in New Zealand

4. Take a Break - A few years ago, Lee and I went on a 3 week trip together. A lot of this trip involved traveling by bus from place to place. At first, when getting on the bus we would always sit together and chat. Four days in, we saw a couple get on the bus and sit in separate seats, get out their books, music, and do their own thing. It was a revelation. We didn't have to sit together. We could take some alone time since once we arrived at our destinations we would be inseparable. Similarly, when at a destination, it is okay to separate and spend time doing your own thing. If one wants to go antiquing and the other go for a run, then do it! Space can be good for relationships because it gives you time to clear your head and when you come back together you'll have stories to share about your time apart.

5. Discuss Your Fears - I like to be 10-30 minutes early to everywhere I go. Lee loves to sleep in and is known for rolling in to a destination at the very last minute. On one of our first trips together, this caused frustration on both sides. I was anxious all the time that we were going to be late and she was frustrated by my constant nagging to get going. Since then, before our girls trips, we like to discuss expectations and worries that might arise. This could be anything from the time to go to bed, to drinking habits, or who snores at night. Whatever it is, it should be discussed in order to reach a resolution. Lee and I compromised that we would get to each destination five minutes early on the understanding that I wouldn't hover around her in the mornings while she took her time.

Sometimes the view is better with friends.
Girls Trip 2011

Court, Lee, and I have had our share of spats, disagreements, and disappointments while traveling together. Relationships can be tough when crammed in a tent, navigating through a city, or even agreeing on the same pizza toppings. Still, the stories and experiences we've shared together are priceless and worth the occasional spat.

Throughout my travel experiences I've spent time alone and also with friends. I've come to discover that when I'm on an adventure whether it's exploring a new city, lying on a sunny beach, or standing on a mountain summit, I hope my friends are with me to split the granola bar and share the view.

So... Do you agree?