Discovering Tenerife on Foot

Roque de Jama or the Trail of the Lonesome Pine

2012-02-28T01:48:00.000-08:00

This is a guest blog from Derek Fisher, a walker from England who visits Tenerife most winters and sometimes walks with me in the south of the island. Last year, he purchased a copy of 'Discovering Tenerife on Foot' and during his visit in January of this year, he completed the walk to Roque de Jama. I give this walk the highest rating in the book, not because it is necessarily the most strenuous but because the path is difficult to follow and the summit is quite exposed and dangerous. The following is Derek's account of the walk. I would also like to point out that Derek is 76 years old and I have frequently been amazed by his fitness and stamina when out walking with him as he skips across rocks and boulders, often taking the most difficult route across the mountainsides. I only hope that I can remain as fit and active as Derek when I am his age.

Roque de Jama or the Trail of the Lonesome Pine
by

Derek Fisher

I usually go on a couple of walks with Gary every time I visit Los Cristianos but this year I left it late to contact him so I had to fend for myself. Last year I bought "Discovering Tenerife on Foot” so I thought I would test whether it was idiot proof. Roque de Jama seemed an eminently suitable walk. It was on a good bus route (every 20minutes) and was one of the toughest but one of the shortest in the book.

One of the greatest problems with walks both at home and abroad is locating the starting point. I’d already wasted about half an hour a few days earlier in Arona trying to remember where the start of the trek up El Conde was. Gary not only gives sufficient detail so this problem is avoided in this and all his walks but makes sure you get off the bus at the right place as well.

The first part of the walk is along roads, their very steepness presenting a strong early challenge. However the effort was rewarded by interesting features such as a 2 arch aqueduct and good views down the Valle of San Lorenzo to the towns of La Camella and Cabo Blanco. The timing of this part of the walk given by Gary was 30mins. He must have been pushing it because I struggled to do it in 35. There were a few points where one could have gone wrong had the road names not been given. Again this is a very good provision

On reaching the open mountain side the directions again were very good guiding upwards on a cairned pathway of varying degrees of roughness and distinctness. In the early stages one passes an old oven and a threshing circle before getting a view of the coast at El Medano near the airport and Montaña Roja sticking out into the sea. I’d spotted on the summit ridge what I thought was a jagged cairn so I regarded it as a useful landmark. Unfortunately I got a little careless as I got near the ridge. I lost the path and had to scramble up the nose of the ridge which I quite enjoyed. I was quite surprised when my landmark cairn turned out to be what Gary refers to as a lone pine tree. Hence my subtitle for the walk- “The trail of the Lonesome Pine”

From the lonesome pine, a rocky path takes one to the top of the ridge which includes about 50yards of a jumble of huge rocks tilted at a variety of angles. I have a good head for heights and normally this would not present any sort of problem for me but there was something about the end of this ridge which sent a little shiver down my spine. Maybe it was the contrast between the earlier part of the route up the friendly dip slope with its cactuses and spurges and the bleak summit ridge with its precipitous drop in to the valley below. This was perhaps exacerbated by my inadvisably being on my own. Nevertheless the 360degree views were spectacular. There was Teide seated majestically in Las Cañadas to the north, Montaña Roja to southeast, Los Cristianos and Playa de Las Americas in the South and in the West, El Conde where I’d been a few days before with Roque Imoque nearby. I’d love to climb Imoque’s sharp pinnacle were I able to find someone with the necessary technical expertise to help me.

At the end of the ridge is a daunting rocky pinnacle 30 or 40 ft in height. Gary did not exaggerate when he said it was not for walkers. Set into the pinnacle is a cave seat but at this point the ridge is only a few feet wide. I sat on the seat intending to have lunch there but left after a few minutes. It was quite cold there but I suspect apprehension still lingered and influenced my departure.

I’d taken about the scheduled hour and a quarter to reach the cave seat and after a short break for lunch during which I continued to admire the view, I sent off on the return journey. I managed to keep to the cairned path by looking well ahead to spot the next cairn. I was also grateful about the warning give by Gary about not taking a seductive looking path appearing to be the obvious way down.

I descended to the road without incident and arrived at the village of Valle del Ahijadero. The given time to that point is one hour. I arrived there in half an hour and back at the walk’s starting point after a further quarter of an hour. My total walking time was 2 hours compared with a suggested time of 2hours 40mins. I tend to descend quite quickly but even so the time suggested for the return journey seems to be a little generous in view of it being scheduled for 10 minutes longer than the ascent. Perhaps the schedule had included a lunch break or perhaps Gary had worn himself out on the way up!!

As I made my way down I wondered about how the walk might be varied. Could one descend directly down one of the ridges to Valle del Ahijadero or would the terrain be too rough? What if one did the road sections by car? An investment of around an hour and a half would then reward the mountain walker with a good climb over rough terrain, magnificent views and the excitement which this exposed summit ridge gives.

Anyway Gary thank you for providing the means for my having a very enjoyable outing- I can certainly recommend it.

Walking with Tenerife's Elusive Mouflon

2012-01-23T12:33:00.000-08:00

Setting off from the Parador

The walk from the Parador to Vilaflor, Spain's highest village, starts at over 2,000 metres altitude and last Friday a group of us started the day in balmy temperatures in Los Cristianos as we caught the once a day bus to the Las Cañadas National Park. As the bus climbed the serpentine road to the park, the temperature plummeted until, as we entered the park, the frost covering the volcanic landscape made us glad that we had packed our fleeces. Starting off in the crisp, cold air under electric blue skies after a group photo outside the parador, we were soon walking quickly, trying to warm up as we headed for the path out of the giant caldera. The first hour of the walk involves climbing almost 300 metres in thin air and we made regular stops to catch our breath, giving us the chance to admire the fantastic scenery below.

On the Ucanca Pass

Arriving just below the caldera rim, we reached the final ascent path to the Ucanca Pass, which in winter is usually a tricky climb over hard packed snow but due to the very dry winter the island has enjoyed so far this year, posed no real problem other than the rough, rocky ground underfoot. After around an hours climbing, we reached the pass and after another group photo, began the descent into the wild beauty of the Barranco de Eris de Carnero. As we descended, one of our group suddenly called our attention the 'deer' on the far wall of the barranco and as I looked in the direction he was pointing, I was amazed to see three 'deer-like' animals bounding across the rocks.

Approaching the Caldera Rim

Initially, I was a little bemused as I knew there are no deer on the island but then I recalled reading some years ago that there were a number of mouflon sheep on the island in the National Park region. These were introduced in 1970 for hunting, although there have since been moves to eradicate them in an attempt to stop them damaging the protected flora of the National Park. The males of the species have large, curving horns but the three we were watching as they expertly clambered across the volcanic, boulder strewn valley wall appeared to be female as no horns were visible. The mouflon are extremely elusive and rarely seen and this was the first time in many years of walking on the island that I had encountered them. Unfortunately, they were too far away to photograph but more information about them can be found Here

Decending into the Barranco de Eris de Carnero

Eventually, they disappeared out of sight and we continued our descent into the valley and as we reached the path to the Paisaje Lunar, or Lunar Landscape, we descended into the cloud. As the chilly mist swirled around us, we reached this valley of strangely eroded pumice pinnacles, sculpted over the years by the wind and rain and after a break here to take in the views we continued through the pines before descending steeply into Vilaflor.

At the Lunar Landscape

After exactly five hours of excellent walking, including an encounter with one of the islands more elusive inhabitants, we had just enough time for a quick drink in a bar before catching the bus as it returned from the National Park to the coast.
(The walk from the Parador to Vilaflor is no.4 in the book 'Discovering Tenerife on Foot')

Walking the Badlands

2011-11-28T05:31:00.001-08:00

Puerto de Güimar

Last week, I finally got around to walking the Malpais de Güimar, the volcanic coastline close to Puerto de Güimar on the east coast of Tenerife. This walk has been on my 'to do' list for some time and while it doesn't present much of a challenge either in time or effort required, it did prove to be a fascinating walk. Starting from the pleasant, if unremarkable seafront of Puerto de Güimar, the walk starts by an information board at the edge of the malpais and there are a couple of routes to choose from.

The Malpais de Güimar

I decided to follow the coastal path to the village of El Socorro and then return through the lava-fields at the base of the volcanic cinder cone of Montaña Grande. The word 'malpais' translates as 'badlands' and almost any area of volcanic wasteland in Tenerife gets saddled with this rather sinister sounding title. The lava in this instance issued forth from Montaña Grande a mere 10,000 years ago, so the area, geologically speaking, is in it's infancy. I was fortunate enough to have picked a gloriously sunny morning for my walk and set off from the edge of the village, passing ramshackle fisherman's shanties on the edge of the shore.

The Salt Flats

I followed the well-defined path as the sun sparkled on the Atlantic Ocean, the dramatic mountains of the Güimar Valley forming a fantastic, contrasting backdrop to the black, cardón strewn lava. As I approached the next information board, I noticed a number of flat, rectangular areas set in the lava and the board explained that these were 'slat flats', where sea water would become trapped and evaporate in the sun leaving behind the sea salt. Continuing, I arrived at the 'summit' of Montaña de la Mar, which at 27 metres above sea-level, barely qualifies for the title 'montaña' but on the top I found another information board explaining how the malpais came into being. The elevation, though modest, also gave an excellent aerial view of the lava fields. After around an hour of walking, I arrived at the village of El Socorro. Here, I found a pleasant stretch of black sand beach, which provided an excellent opportunity for a breather and I sat for a while in the hot sunshine watching the waves breaking on the shore before heading off through the village to locate the return path.

Montaña Grande

El Socorro, although pleasant enough, is unfortunate in that it has a large industrial estate backing onto it and as I left the village, I skirted the edge of the incongruously situated warehouses before picking up the path to Montaña Grande. Leaving the industry behind, I now followed a wide path to the volcanic cone, where it became covered in sand and yet another information board informed me that this originated from the beach at El Socorro, having been blown there by the wind. There are two routes around the foot of the cone and I had chosen the one closest to the sea as the other paralleled the TF1 motorway too closely for my liking. From Montaña Grande, I followed the easy path back to Puerto de Güimar, where I relaxed with a drink in the square on the seafront at one of cafes after a fairly easy but fascinating walk of around three hours.

Exploring San Miguel in Tenerife

2011-10-26T12:47:00.000-07:00

Not too far from where I live in the south of Tenerife is the small hill town of San Miguel de Abona. Passing through the main street, it's easy to think that this slightly sleepy, fairly typical Canarian town has little of interest for those visiting the island but for anyone taking the time to leave the main road and investigate the narrow back streets, there is much of interest to be found.

Salto del Pastor sculpture

Recently, in line with many other areas of the south, the walker is being catered for as numerous signposted hiking routes have sprung up, including two passing through San Miguel to Aldea Blanca. Even more recently, a town walk has been created taking the casual stroller on an interesting ramble around the back streets of the old part of the town, following newly installed information boards highlighting various points of interest to be found along the way. As you enter the town from San Lorenzo, you arrive at the Mirador de Las Palmeros, where you will find a map detailing the walk and marking points of interest. The mirador is easily identified by the unusual sculpture of a shepherd practising an ancient method of travelling quickly across steep, rugged terrain called Salto del Pastor, in which a large pole was used to negotiate steep slopes and ravines. This technique, which is believed to have been first been used by the Guanches, the islands original inhabitants, has now been developed into a folk-sport.

El Calvario

From the mirador, the walk heads for El Calvario, in the old part of town, where you will find the La Casa del Capitan. This traditional old Canarian house belonged to the Alfonso family until the end of the nineteenth century and Miguel Alfonso Martinez achieved the highest military rank in the municipality, which is where the house gets it's name. After the house was devastated by fire, it was purchased and restored by the town and now houses an historical and ethnographic museum. The walk heads along the Calle de La Iglesia, towards the church square, following the route of an old Camino Real, or Royal Way, that once connected the towns of Granadilla, San Miguel, Aldea Blanca and San Lorenzo with the north of the island.

Calle de La Iglesia

This camino would have once been used by vendors selling or trading goods from village to village as well as shepherds moving their herds. The walk now passes La Vieja Bodega, where you can join El Camino de Las Lajas, a 3.5 kilometre signposted hiking route to the village of Aldea Blanca. This is another camino that besides the normal traffic of shepherds and vendors selling wares, was also used as a 'corpse road' with the dead being transported from Aldea Blanca to San Miguel for burial. As you continue along the Calle de la Iglesia, you will pass a small alleyway, which was once the site of a gofio mill and a generator, which was installed in 1922, making San Miguel the first municipality in the south of the island to have electric street lighting.

House in the old part of San Miguel

Eventually, the walk arrives at the attractive church square shaded by Indian laurels. From here, there are superb views down across the town to the south coast and you will also find benches where you can rest in the shade and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere.

Church in San Miguel

Other buildings of interest in the square include the old library and birthplace of a famous Canarian, John Bethencourt Alfonso, a doctor, historian and anthropologist, who wrote 'The History of the Guanche People'.

Part two of the 'Crater to Coast Walk - Vilaflor to La Centinela' from 'Discovering Tenerife on Foot', follows the Camino Real from the Plaza de La Iglesia through the town to La Hoya and beyond to La Centinela.

Walking to The Deserted Village in a calima

2011-09-13T04:11:00.000-07:00

The Deserted village of Las Fuentes

During the recent calima I walked the 'Deserted Village' walk from the book, which in the event proved to be a mistake. I had suggested the walk to a friend who was visiting the island and a day or so before he arrived, a weather warning was issued on the island for high temperatures but we decided to go ahead regardless.

Cave house in Las Fuentes

Walking in Tenerife can often be quite a 'perspiration soaked' affair and never more so than in a calima, a hot, dusty wind from the Sahara, and I have never walked in one quite so hot as this proved to be. As the day wore on the temperatures soared into the high thirties and what would normally be a perfectly manageable walk of around 3.5 hours became a 5.5 hour test of endurance!

Finca Montiel

The route to the mostly abandoned village of Las Fuentes crosses three barrancos (ravines) and temperatures in the bottom of these must have been hitting the 40c mark. Crossing the barranco streambeds and climbing out of the opposite side felt a little like walking through an oven as the heat retained in the rocks of the barranco walls radiated outwards and felt as though the central heating had been accidentally turned onto high! It is always advisable when walking in Tenerife to take plenty of water and soft drinks, I always carry a minimum of 2.5 litres and frequently drink all of it, particularly in the summer. In this instance I had three litres with me and and could have probably drunk even more.

The Island of La Gomera from El Choro

Approaching the village of El Jaral, we struggled in the searing heat as we climbed very slowly out of the last barranco of the day before following the road downhill back to our car. The cold beers after the walk that we enjoyed on the way home never tasted so good! Although I have walked in some of the less intense calimas, it is advisable to avoid strenuous exercise during these periods, which normally last for two to fours days. So if the air suddenly fills with a fine 'mist' and the temperature rises it's probably a good idea to find a shady spot, pour yourself a cool drink and leave the walking to another day. Check the 'Amendments and Updates' at the top of the page for the latest route information.

New Stockists in south Tenerife

2011-09-02T04:28:00.000-07:00

Now it's easier to get hold of copies of 'Discovering Tenerife on Foot' as from today, Tenerife Sunshine will be stocking the book in their outlets in the south. The two locations are the Tropicana Office in San Eugenio and the Troya Office in Playa de Las Americas. Log onto Tenerife Sunshine where you can find a map showing the exact locations of both.

Montaña Colorada, The Red Mountain

2011-06-10T04:03:00.000-07:00

The weather yesterday here in Tenerife was superb with clear blue skies and I took the opportunity to climb to the summit of Montaña Colorada from the peaceful village of Cruz de Tea. The peak itself is not particularly imposing but from the summit marker there are stupendous views in all directions with the high peaks of Montaña Guajara and Sombrero de Chasna particularly dominant. The climb from the village is a strenuous 1.5 hour hike up paths that are often difficult, being covered in loose, gravelly red soil and rocks, making the walk initially a little like struggling up the side of a sand dune. Eventually, the gradient eases and the going becomes easier underfoot as you enter pine forest, giving you more chance to enjoy the scenery. Montaña Colorada means 'Red Mountain', and although the description 'mountain' may seem a little exaggerated, there is no denying it's colour! As you ascend, the summit cone peeks tantalisingly between the pines, frequently disappearing again making the climb seem longer than it really is. Once on the top, it is well worth stopping for a break to admire the 360 degree views, which in clear weather extend from the coast to the caldera rim. The return route is the almost total opposite of the outward path, as it descends through terraces of vines and fruit trees before following a deserted country road steeply back to the village. As you reach the village, you will find a very large, well preserved tile kiln, next to the appropriately named Tasca El Horno, where you can enjoy tapas and a drink as a reward for your earlier efforts. Photos below.

Montana Colorada

Checking out the Route - Amendments and Updates

2011-06-01T11:49:00.001-07:00

I recently walked the Barranco de Las Vegas with someone who had encountered problems with route-finding while using the book. The idea was to re-walk the route together to see if I could identify why he had struggled to find his way. After crossing the barranco, it became obvious that the problems were caused by plants and bushes along the way that were very overgrown hiding a vital cairn and the entrance to a narrow path through bushes. We had quite a lot of rain on the island during the winter and as the spring has turned to summer, the foliage has burst into life, which adds a wonderful dimension to the walks but can cause problems with route finding. As a result of this I have added a note to this effect for the Barranco de Las Vegas walk in the 'Amendments and Updates' page, which can be found in the sidebar. It is always worth checking this out before setting off on a walk from the book as I do walk these routes regularly and if I come across any problems, update the page with my findings.

Climbing Roque del Conde

2011-05-29T02:26:00.001-07:00

For visitors to the south of Tenerife, the prominent table-top summit of Roque del Conde is a familiar sight, even if they do not know it by name. Sitting just inland from the resorts of Los Cristianos, Playa de Las Americas and Costa Adeje, this 1,000 metre summit is visible for miles around. The mountain is the most prominent remaining peak of the Adeje Massif, the oldest part of the island and from the coast, the mountain looks almost unattainable but there is a good path from the village of Vento, near Arona, which can be followed to the saddle between Roque del Conde and Centinela. From here, the path crosses to the seaward side of the mountain giving stunning views to the coastal resorts and on a clear day, the summit of Teide. As you ascend the partially paved trail to the top you will see many old terraces and threshing circles, once used for threshing cereal crops. Arrival at the summit is a surprise to most as instead of the vertiginous ridge that most expect to find, a huge sloping plain is revealed and even this high up, there are abandoned terraces, long since fallen into disuse. It is worth spending time exploring the various paths on the summit as well as locating the plaque commemorating the Guanche mencey Ichasagua, who fought the invading Spanish from his stronghold on the mountain, the peak also being known by the alternative name of Roque de Ichasagua. If you would like to explore this impressive mountain directions can be downloaded here. Just click 'File and 'Download Original' then save to your desktop.

Walking the Royal Road

2011-04-18T01:25:00.000-07:00

The Chasna Royal Road is an ancient trade route that from pre-Hispanic times up until the end of the 19th century linked Vilaflor, Spain's highest village, with the north of the island at La Oratava. This route is a high-level traverse of the island, crossing the high mountains via the Las Cañadas National Park and was at one time the quickest way of travelling between the two regions. Traders would carry their wares on the backs of donkeys, oxen and sometimes even horses, mules or camels, as they led their laden animals on foot, walking alongside them as they toiled up the steep mountainsides. The trail was also used by goat-herders heading for the high pastures of Las Cañadas as the heat dried out the grazing in the lower parts of the island. Even in the height of the summer, the huge caldera still provided grazing for animals, as it once had for the Guanche's animals before the arrival of the Spanish wiped out the indigenous island population. The ruined house of Casa Marrubial can be found along the path and marks what was once an overnight resting place along the way for the goat-herders and their flocks as they headed for the summits of the island. The way was also used by farmers as they went to work in the terraces and Casa Golindo, at the top the El Atajo (the shortcut), the steep hill out of Vilaflor, is now the only remaining finca still operating along the way. The first section of the Crater to Coast walk, which follows the path over the Degollada de Ucanca, is a branch of this ancient way. This lesser used branch, avoids the main GR131 long distance route to the east of Tenerife's fourth highest summit Montaña Guajara, descending to the west of this impressive peak and could not be more different scenically to the GR131 route. Whereas this official route traverses the stark, black-sand dunes of Montaña Arena, the Crater to Coast walk descends through the wild and beautiful Barranco de Eris de Carnero (below), which is framed on one side by the impressive tower of Roque Encaje and on the other by the cliffs of Montaña Guajara. In early summer, the way down is lined with Tajinaste Rojo and Teide Broom, that occasionally encroaches on the path and this, along with the rough, boulder strewn going underfoot, gives the walk in this area an undiscovered feel. Later on in the walk, after descending alongside the lower sandy slopes of Montaña Arena, the route eventually joins with the more populated Paisaje Lunar or 'Lunar Landscape' path back to Vilaflor. The whole of this section of the Crater to Coast route is scenically spectacular, passing through the majestic scenery of the Las Cañadas National Park to Vilaflor, Spain's highest village, with Teide, the islands 'Jewel in the Crown', providing a wonderful backdrop to the beginning of the walk. Last Saturday, I led a group of walkers along the route on a superb day, with very clear views to the coast 8,000ft below the Degollada de Ucanca pass. After around five hours walking, we descended through the 'Corona Forestal' pine forest and admired the carpets of orange California Poppies that greeted our arrival in Vilaflor, adding a vivid splash of colour to this attractive mountain village. For more photos click here

View from Roque De Jama

2011-04-03T08:59:00.001-07:00

Towering 2,500ft over the southern hill-town of Valle San Lorenzo, the peak of Roque De Jama dominates the local scenery. This prominent landmark is a phonolythic dome - the interior of an old volcano that has been exposed by erosion - and is the largest example of it's type on the island. Valle San Lorenzo is a bustling town, easily accessible by local bus from Los Cristianos or Playa De Las Americas, enabling you to easily get to the start of the walk to the summit of this impressive mountain. Although a fairly short walk, it is quite a steep climb, initially along quiet country lanes until you leave the tarmac and begin the ascent of the peak. The walk is graded as 'difficult' in the book although this does not relate to the 'effort' required for the climb but the problems encountered along the way. These include a very steep, tricky path that is often quite hard to locate as well as sections of exposure near the summit that will not suit those suffering from vertigo. Fortunately, as I climbed to the summit today, the conditions were fine, if a little cloudy at times but I still had excellent views down to the coast and surrounding towns. Overall, the walk takes a little over 2.5 hours giving you plenty of time to enjoy a drink or a meal in one of the many bars and restaurants to be found in Valle San Lorenzo before catching the bus back. One of my favourite eateries in the town is the Meson Era Las Mosaz, which is a little difficult to locate as it is in a backstreet behind the BBVA bank but is well worth searching for. Make sure you have a good appetite though as the portions are enormous and you will see many people leave clutching a bag of uneaten meat. Last time I was there on a Sunday lunchtime, it was packed to the rafters and diners were treated to an impromptu concert given by two customers who entertained us playing singing and playing guitars, creating a wonderful atmosphere. The short video below shows various views from the summit of Roque De Jama.

Guidebook Updates

2011-02-27T01:02:00.000-08:00

One of the problems with guidebooks is that almost as soon as they are printed, they become out of date and this is particularly true with walking guidebooks where conditions on the ground can change with alarming speed. Paths can become blocked with landslides or overgrown, gates and fences can be added or removed, marker cairns can appear or disappear, adding to uncertainty for walkers unfamiliar with a particular route. There are any number of things that can alter the directions in a walking guidebook but one thing that rarely occurs, at least on a large scale, is the appearance of brand new paths and signposting. Since writing 'Discovering Tenerife on Foot - Ten walks in south Tenerife', the authorities on Tenerife have been extremely busy creating and signposting new routes as well as clearing and improving some existing ones that were becoming overgrown. All of this is to be applauded and it is obvious that those involved in attracting tourists to the island have realised that walking is fast becoming one of the most popular types of activity holiday for people travelling to foreign parts and have set out to make the island more 'walker friendly'. The only downside to this is the sheer speed and scale of the pedestrianisation that is occurring. Lately, when out walking in the south of the island I have regularly come across new paths and signposts that seem to have suddenly have materialised out of nowhere. The latest area to be 'tamed' is around the pretty hamlet of Las Vegas to the east of Granadilla. When I first walked from this sleepy cluster of houses nestling in the hills below Montana Guajara in 2009, the whole area had an undiscovered feel to it and in the book I described the path leading into the Barranco De Las Vegas as a tree-tunnel, which it was at the time, with branches reaching over the path blocking out the surrounding views. Since then, it has become part of a new signposted route to the Paisaje Lunar or Lunar Landscape, above Vilaflor. Consequently, what was a narrow route snaking it's way through the surrounding foliage has become a wide, clear path giving views of the surrounding barranco cliffs. In some ways this is an improvement as it is now easier to walk and the views of the surrounding countryside have been improved. Despite all of this however, I can't help but feel a little sad that the route has now, to a certain extent, lost the untouched feeling of before. This feeling was strengthened further yesterday as I checked out all of the new work, when I met a party of walkers heading in the opposite direction, the first time I have seen anyone on this route. It seems that those in authority are achieving their aim of opening up the countryside to those that want to discover the superb scenery that the island has to offer. As well as creating a route up to the Lunar Landscape, there is also now a circular route from the village to the remains of an old water-mill. The name Las Vegas means 'fertile plain' and the reason for the existence of the village is it's position below the Barranco De Las Vegas and the high mountains above, which meant that it was ideally situated the catch the water running down the hillsides. As the water rushed down through the 'tajeas' or water channels to the village, it passed though the mill, turning the gears before continuing on it's way into the village where it was used for irrigation and human consumption. This excellent walk can be done after the Barranco de las Vegas walk in the book for those with energy to spare, or saved for another day giving you an excellent excuse to visit this lovely region again in the future. Full details of the new signposting can be found in the Updates and Amendments page opposite.

Paradise Found Out

2011-01-22T09:53:00.000-08:00

While putting together the routes in the Ifonche region for 'Discovering Tenerife on Foot', I became aware of a large amount of work happening in the area on path upgrading. In fact, because of this, I eventually altered the end of the Ifonche route to include a section of path that I later discovered was the new GR131 route from Arona to La Esperanza. One of the reasons for writing the guidebook was that I knew there were many paths in the south of the island that weren't, as far as I was aware, detailed in any guidebooks. As I reconnoitered the paths in total solitude I realised that the GR131 would pass through three of the routes in the book, the Ifonche route, the Crater to Coast route and the Vilaflor Circular. A few days ago, while walking the Vilaflor Circular, I had the unusual experience of meeting a number of other walkers, seven in all plus a group of mountain bikers. This may not seem a lot but I have walked this route quite a number of times in the past and have never met anyone else on it. One of the beauties of waymarked routes is that they take away the doubt and uncertainty when walking in unfamiliar countryside but this can also be a drawback because it popularises previously uncharted walking territory. Routes that previously allowed you to walk all day in solitude attract more walkers and this seems to be happening with the new GR131. For most, this is not a problem but I must say that I personally love nothing more than walking alone and not seeing a soul all day. Of course, this may seem a selfish desire, and probably it is, but I am always on the lookout for the more remote, unused paths in preference to the well-walked trails. Alfred Wainwright, author of the famous Lake District guidebooks, was often known to hide when he saw other walkers heading in his direction but his superb guides are responsible for drawing more walkers to the area than any other. He would probably never go out into his beloved mountains now with the huge amount of walkers to be found clambering over the fells, many ironically inspired by his own guidebooks. I wouldn't say that my preference for solitude extends to those extremes but I understand where he was coming from. Hillwalking is one of the few pastimes where you can totally get away from all other distractions and lose yourself for a day. Although a fairly small island, it is still possible at the moment to walk in Tenerife without seeing too many other walkers and enjoy a sense of solitude and adventure. However, as more and more paths are signposted and routes created, it must be hoped that it does not become more difficult in the future to find peace and solitude as the island attracts more walkers drawn by the GR131 and other waymarked paths. While it is good for the local economy that Tenerife is becoming a destination for walking holidays, as well as the traditional sun and sand for which it is renowned, it is to be hoped that the very thing that attracts them in the first place isn't lost under the bootprints of armies of holidaying hikers.

Typically 'Tipico'

2010-11-23T00:52:00.000-08:00

One of the advantages of getting out into the Tenerife countryside, either on foot or by car, are the 'tipico' bar/restaurants, which are very basic establishments selling typical Canarian dishes at very reasonable prices. There is rarely any of the usual 'frills' normally associated with eating out and some can appear very basic. Indeed, up until very recently, the Tasca Taguara, on the TF567 from La Escalona to Ifonche, used large wooden cable drums for tables outside it's very modest exterior. These have since been replaced by less quirky tables and chairs but the ambience is still one of rustic simplicity. To be honest, if it wasn't for the sign outside, you would drive past without a second glance.

As the restaurant is located at the start of the Ifonche Circular walk, I have recently stopped for a post-walk drink at this modest establishment on a number of occasions. Although I have never eaten here, if the price of the drinks is anything to go by, the food is going to be very affordable. On a recent walk, our group of ten thirsty walkers crowded into the small outdoor seating area, where shade is provided by vines and lemon trees and the bill came to ten euros! The order consisted mainly of bottles of the local Dorada beer and glasses of wine. Imagine how much this could have cost from a bar on the seafront a few miles away. While we were there, the small restaurant was almost full and the food looked and smelt fantastic. The menu is written on a blackboard as you enter the restaraunt and consisted of Canarian favourites such as Paletilla de Cordero, Conejo con Salmorejo and Gambas al Ajillo. It was quite amusing watching the diners arrive and take a seat in the restaurant only to leave their tables and walk outside to read the menu a few minutes later! The Tenerife countryside is littered with tipicos and this is one I shall be returning to soon to sample the food

Vilaflor - The Village of Flowers?

2010-11-21T01:22:00.000-08:00

One of the surprises for those staying in the large resorts of the south of the island is the ease with which you can experience the authentic, traditional Tenerife. Just over half an hours drive inland from the resort of Los Cristianos, will find you in the mountain village of Vilaflor, Spain's highest. Surrounded by pine forests and the high mountains of the Las Cañadas National Park, this sleepy village attracts not only coach tours but hikers, who come to walk the many paths and trails that radiate out into the surrounding hills. The principal walk has always been the steep climb to the Paisaje Lunar, or Lunar Landscape, a very popular route with walkers who are drawn to the climb through the pines to see the unusual eroded pumice pinnacles nestling in a valley below the the summits of the national park. Recently, the new GR131 trail, an 85 kilometre European route from La Esperanza to Arona has been created to give the long-distance trekker a mouth watering route across the island. Both routes pass through the Plaza San Pedro in the centre of the village. Normally, this is a shady, peaceful square, dominated by the San Pedro church and also contains one or two shops selling souvenirs as well as the Fuente Hermano Pedro bar/restaurant where you can sit in the sunshine and enjoy tapas and a drink if you are looking for something a little more relaxing than climbing the steep trails into the forest. For over a year now, the square has not been the normal oasis of calm, as it has been undergoing a facelift. During this period, there has been an unattractive green fence surrounding the main square turning this pretty spot into something akin to a builders yard. In typical Canarian fashion, nothing seemed to happen for months until fairly recently when the workmen descended, transforming it into a veritable hive of activity. Although still unfinished, it is now taking shape and when complete, promises to enhance the hub of this lovely village. The sloping plaza has been transformed into a series of grey stone 'steps' that represent the terracing in the surrounding fields, where the locals earn their livelihoods, growing crops of potatoes, vines and fruit. The villagers still work the terraces in the traditonal manner and sell the produce in the farmers markets around the island and before the work started in the plaza, at the small produce market held every weekend. Hopefully, this tradition will be restored once the work is complete. In the plaza and throughout the village there are numerous references to Hermano Pedro, a Vilaflor born shepherd who lived for a time in a cave near to El Medano before making his way to Gautemala where he worked helping the sick and the poor. He was canonised by Pope John Paul II in 2002. The village is rightly proud of it's famous son and you will find statues, wall plaques and roads, as well as the church and plaza named after him.

If you read most guidebooks you will be told that Vilaflor means 'Village of Flowers' but there is another interpretation to the origin of the name. If you look on the coat of arms of the village you will notice that the word Vilaflor is split into three - Vi La Flor - which translates into 'I have seen the flower'. This refers to the legend of Captain Pedro de Bracamonte who is reputed to have uttered these words when a beautiful Guanche princess he had fallen in love with while in his captivity, escaped. Whatever the truth of the matter, Vilafor, whether you are a serious hiker or just looking for a quiet drink in a shady square, is well worth a visit.

The Vilaflor Circular walk starts from the square and the first part of the Crater to Coast walk passes by the Lunar Landscape on it's way to the village.

Viva Las Vegas

2010-11-07T09:35:00.000-08:00

Some days live long in the memory and today was just such a day. I was leading two friends on the Barranco de Las Vegas route to the east of Granadilla, one of my favourite walking areas. The tiny Canarian village is extremely attractive and on arriving at the start of the walk on a clear, sunny morning the three of us had a look around the small plaza and church and we couldn't help but be impressed with the quiet beauty of the place. The village, tucked away in the hills, is adorned with glorious floral displays and trees hanging with oranges, lemons and other fruits, we even saw chilli peppers growing near the edge of the road as we climbed steeply out of the village towards the barranco. The barranco (ravine) itself is very verdant and ruggedly impressive and as the route crosses the streambed and ascends the other side, there are fantastic views up to the mountains surrounding the Las Cañadas national park and also down to the coast. Often, you will see buzzards circling high above at this point but we were out of luck today. As we returned to the village passing more orange trees, the water channel running alongside the village road, which had been dry as we started the walk, had a torrent of water rushing through it down into the village adding to the picture postcard scene. These water channels are used to irrigate the dry, semi-desert terrain in the south of the island and have largely been replaced by metal or plastic pipes nowadays, which are probably more practical but not as appealing. The walk is not too hard and although it can be a bit rough underfoot at times, it isn't too long either giving you plenty of time to enjoy the views and the village at your leisure.

The Beautiful South

2010-09-28T02:08:00.000-07:00

'The south of Tenerife is a barren wasteland once you get outside of Playa De Las Americas, you have to go to the north for decent scenery' Or so I am often told. A recent remark by a friend, similar to the above, started me thinking about this common perception of the landscape in the south of the island as barren and desert-like, unworthy of exploration and the only reason to visit the south is for the sun, sea and sand holidays normally associated with this area. Being a walker, my first visit to the island was filled with curiosity as I had been advised that, being a person who enjoys the outdoors, I wouldn't like a destination where all there was to do was sit in the sun all day on the beach or around the pool. Upon arrival, the first thing about the island that immediately caught my attention was the strange, mountainous landscape a few miles inland from the coast. Immediately I wanted to put my boots on and explore. While the coastal regions were very barren and volcanic, the mountain scenery looked more promising. Sure, it didn't have the 'chocolate box' greenery of somewhere like the Lake District in England but for me that was a bonus. This was something different, worthy of further investigation. I have always had a love of landscapes that some describe as 'bleak', often exclaiming 'Wow! look at that', while others are complaining that 'it's not very green, is it'. 'Bleak' isn't the right word to describe what I witnessed on my first visit, mysterious yes, exciting yes, barren maybe, but bleak no. Having purchased a couple of walking guidebooks so that I could get out into this wonderful countryside, I was disappointed to note that there were only a handful of walks in the south of the island. Having walked these routes and frequently been amazed by what I had seen , I began to wonder why these books seemed to largely avoid the south. Having noticed large quantities of walkers at the bus station in Los Cristianos heading into the hills, I thought it was a shame that there weren't more guidebooks offering more routes in this part the island, so I set about writing a guidebook detailing all of the walks I had found for myself. Over a number of years, during numerous visits, I have walked through the quiet, remote beauty of the Ifonche region, the wonderful pine forests of the Corona Forestal, in impressive barrancos such as the Barranco De Las Vegas and the Barranco Del Rey, to the top of mountain viewpoints and passes such as Montana Colorada and the Degollada De Ucanca, to the sadly deserted village of Las Fuentes and to the spectacular viewpoints of the Cauldron and the Mirador La Centinela. While I recognise the beauty and fantastic walking opportunities of areas such as the Anaga, Teno and the Orotava, not to mention the Las Canadas national park, I think it's a shame that the south is often dismissed as having nothing worth investigating when, in my opinion, nothing could be further from the truth.

Walk 5 - Vilaflor to La Centinela Update

2010-09-23T23:23:00.000-07:00

After the recent closure of the La Centinela mirador restaurant at the end of this section of the Crater to Coast walk, I decided yesterday to drive up and have a look to see for myself if there was any activity. I had recently been advised by Darren Collins of Lavatrax Mountain Bike holidays that a new owner was taking over at the restaurant so I was curious to see if there was any evidence of a re-opening. My original information suggested that the restaurant was closed for good and would remain that way so imagine my surprise upon arrival yesterday at the mirador to find numerous workmen and delivery vans in evidence. New plants and irrigation systems have been installed in the gardens around the restaurant and it appears that a shop is also being opened in the lower level of the building below the restaurant. As I walked around watching this flurry of activity, I was approached by one of the workers who informed me that the restaurant would be re-opening at 6pm the following day. So there it is, the closure of this impressive restaurant was thankfully short and those walking this section of the Crater to Coast walk can once again enjoy a drink as well as the view as they wait for the bus.

Walk 5 - Vilaflor to La Centinela CTC

2010-08-20T07:18:00.000-07:00

While the book was at the printers, it came to my attention that the excellent restaurant and cafeteria at the La Centinela mirador had closed down. As this was one of my favourite restaurants as well as a superb finishing point for this section of the Crater to Coast walk, to say I was disappointed is something of an understatement. According to the little information that I have been able to find about the closure, it is apparently a permanent situation and the restaurant is not scheduled to re-open in the future. It was built and run by the local authorities as both a restaurant and restaurant school and although the school is still going to operate it looks as though it's the end for this unique eatery. It seems a terrible waste that this beautiful building with it's huge glass wall overlooking the south coast and it's highly polished wooden floors, to say nothing of it's unusual menu is just closed for good. Now, the only realistic opportunity for refreshments on the walk is in San Miguel, which is over an hour from the mirador and before the only real climb on the walk. You will still have the magnificent views to enjoy before catching the bus back to the coast but it is a real shame that you will no longer be able to enjoy them with a drink and tapas.

Discovering Tenerife on Foot Guidebook Now Available

2010-08-03T04:58:00.000-07:00

Discovering Tenerife on Foot - Ten Walks in South Tenerife is now available to purchase in book form within the UK enabling you to enhance your walking holidays in the south of the island without being restricted to the few routes currently available for the area in other guidebooks. It will also be possible to purchase in Tenerife from the 8th September so if you want to secure a copy, please put in your order and it will be despatched to you as a soon as copies become available. Currently, it is only available for purchase through this site so all you need to do is click on the 'BUY NOW' button on the right and your order will despatched direct to your address.

Discovering Tenerife on Foot Walks

2010-06-12T01:36:00.000-07:00

Most walking guidebooks for the south of Tenerife contain the following walks - Roque Del Conde, Montana Guaza, Barranco Del Infierno, Coastal Walk from Los Cristianos to Las Galletas and one or two variations in the mountains between Arona and Adeje. All of these are good walks and well worth doing but what happens if you are a regular visitor to the south of the island and you have done all of these routes and their variations? It can be very frustrating and tiring driving to the north of the island or worrying if the bus is going to turn up in time to make your connection back to the south. Having experienced all of these problems myself, I decided that what was needed was a guidebook that explored further afield in the south, that got off of the beaten track and into less well known areas. After obtaining a set of 1:25,000 maps for the island I set about finding routes that mostly avoided the more well known walks in the south. I had many problems with locating paths while reconnoitering routes as the paths are not well documented on the maps but eventually after much trial and error, I came up with ten walks that as far as I am aware, do not appear in any other book. The walks are:
1/ Barranco de Las Vegas - Short walk from the village of Las Vegas to the beautiful, wild barranco of the same name. This is located to the east of Granadilla.
2/ Vilaflor Circular - Excellent walk between Ifonche & Vilaflor through pine forests and farmland returning to Vilaflor on the GR131 European route from Arona to La Esperanza. This walk links with the Ifonche Circular route.
3/Montana Colorada - Circular walk from the village of Cruz de Tea above Granadilla to the panoramic summit of Montana Colorada. Fabulous views of the coast and the high mountains of Las Canadas.
4/Las Canadas to Vilaflor - This is the first part of a three day walk from the National Park to the coast called the Crater to Coast walk. Climb up and out of the huge Las Canadas caldera from the parador before descending via the Lunar Landscape to Vilaflor, Spains highest village.
5/Vilaflor to La Centinela - Part two of the Crater to Coast walk passing through farm land, country roads and cobbled caminos, old trade routes that linked different parts of the island. Mostly downhill but with a climb at the end to a spectacular mirador viewpoint where there is a superb restaurant for that post-walk drink.
6/La Centinela to Costa del Silencio - Final section of the Crater to Coast walk from the mirador to the coast. The walk finishes with an excellent section of coastal walking between Amarilla Golf and Costa Silencio to complete this three day excursion from the top to the bottom of the island.
7/ Roque de Jama - Difficult ascent of one of the most prominent mountains in the south close to the town of Valle San Lorenzo. Steep, tricky, difficult to follow and with plenty of exposure on the summit. One for the mountain goat walker!
8/Ifonche Circular - Remote walk in the Ifonche region on an initially intermittent path. Superb views of the surrounding mountains, pine forests and coast. The walk eventually follows the GR131 European route back into the village of Ifonche alongside the impressive Barranco Del Rey. Links with the Vilaflor Circular.
9/The Cauldron - A different perspective on the Barranco del Infierno. This walk explores the countryside above the barranco and visits three spectacular viewpoints looking into this impressive ravine. The most stunning of these is the Cauldron, for me the most incredible viewpoint in the south. Links with Ifonche Circular.
10/The Deserted Village - A walk that passes through the largely abandoned village of Las Fuentes in the Guia de Isora region. The walk is linear and passes through three villages and three picturesque barrancos. Las Fuentes is a sad reminder of the changes that have occurred on the island in recent decades.
The book is now available from this site, just click on the 'BUY NOW' button at the top of the page.

Barranco de Las Vegas Walk - Discovering Tenerife on Foot

2010-05-20T00:31:00.000-07:00

Some years ago, I recall a work colleague telling me about his holiday in Las Vegas in the USA and I remember thinking as he waxed lyrical about the delights of the gambling capital in the Nevada desert, how it was probably the last place on earth I would choose to go for a holiday.

After moving to Tenerife in 2008, my attention was drawn to the name of the village of Las Vegas on the Tenerife map and having noted that there was a barranco of the same name nearby, I set out to investigate. On arrival in the village, I initially thought that it was abandoned as there was no sign of anyone at all and the silence was deafening. As I walked through the silent streets towards the barranco, even the dogs sunning themselves on the pavements couldn't be bothered to bark at me, a rare event in Tenerife! At the end of the Calle Guajara, I followed a very stony path and after climbing for around an hour found myself at the edge of the impressive Barranco de Las Vegas. The views were spectacular and the peace and quiet was broken only by the cries of two buzzards soaring high above. During the walk, and on every subsequent trip to this beautiful part of the island, I have never seen another walker and the only other soul I have ever seen when walking in the barranco is a goatherder rounding up his flock. Although the first part of the Barranco de Las Vegas walk in the Discovering Tenerife on Foot guidebook is a fairly steep, uphill climb for the first hour and a quarter, the rest of the walk is virtually all downhill and as the route is only around two and a half hours long it can be taken at a very leisurely pace. This very pretty, tiny village nestling in the hills below the summit of Montana Guajara is as far removed from it's more glamorous namesake as it is possible to be and I know, given the choice, which I would rather visit. (click on the photo of the barranco at the start of this post to enlarge)

The GR131 Long Distance Route

2010-05-14T06:36:00.000-07:00

While researching routes for the 'Discovering Tenerife on Foot' walking guidebook I noticed that a lot of work was happening in the south of the island creating and restoring footpaths. After encountering various sections of newly created path, I eventually came across one with new signposting for the GR131 European long distance route, which explained the creation and restoration work happening on three of the routes in the book. The red and white paint stripes and signposts along the new pathways are the symbol for this network that spans a number of countries including Spain, France, Belgium and Holland. A quick look on the internet revealed nothing about Tenerife but the GR131 apparently spans El Hierro, La Palma and La Gomera and is designed as an 'island-hopping' route for walkers interested in long distance mountain routes in the Canaries. The section currently being created in Tenerife stretches from Arona to La Esperanza and is 85 kilometres long. The parts of the route that I have so far encountered go from Arona to Ifonche to Vilaflor before heading off up to Montana Guajara. It sounds an exciting, if strenuous route that I will look forward to completing at some time in the future when the signposting is finished and it is nice that Tenerife is now included in this route across the Canary Islands.

The Crater to Coast Walk

2010-04-23T06:19:00.000-07:00

Three of the walks in the 'Discovering Tenerife on Foot' walking guidebook combine into one continuous long distance route called The Crater to Coast Walk. This route begins at the the parador in the Las Canadas National Park and initially climbs for around 1,000ft up and out of the caldera. As you reach the caldera rim at the Degollada de Ucanca pass at around 8,000ft/2,400 metres, you may find yourself feeling a little breathless as you admire the fantastic views of Teide and the National Park before descending into the Barranco de Eris de Carnero, en-route to the Lunar Landscape. From here, the route descends to Vilaflor, which signals the end of the first day. Day two continues from Vilaflor and descends through quiet countryside via a number of old caminos or trade routes with great views down to the coast. After passing through San Miguel, the route then heads off towards the hamlet of La Hoya, passing the Tamaide and La Hoya springs along the way. The Tamaide spring, situated in the impressive Barranco del Drago, is also the site of an old communal laundry area. From here, after passing the La Hoya spring, the biggest climb of the day leads to the end of this section at the spectacular Mirador La Centinela, with it's impressive restaurant where you can get that important post-walk drink.

The last day, continues from the mirador and descends to the TF1 motorway. After passing under the motorway, the route heads out the Las Colmenares beach by Amarilla Golf from where the coastal path is followed to Costa del Silencio. There is an optional climb to the summit of Montana Amarilla at the end before heading off to the bus stop. This is a great three day excursion that can easily be fitted into a weeks holiday and can be done using local buses.

Discovering Tenerife on Foot Walking Guidebook - Ten Walks in South Tenerife

2010-04-21T10:55:00.000-07:00

About eighteen months ago, I decided to write a walking guidebook for the south of the island. I had often thought that this was an area that was rather neglected by most guidebooks as these usually repeated the same four or five routes. This was something that I had found frustrating as a new visitor to the island as I had an apartment in the south and this always meant a long trip by bus or car if I wanted to go for a walk. Of course, deciding to write a guidebook is one thing, doing it is something completely different. It seemed to take me an age to finish, but now I am pleased to say that it is complete. Initially, the book will be available in as an electronic download in PDF format but I hope to get it published in book form at some point in the future. There are ten walks in the book and the area covered ranges from Guia de Isora in the west to just beyond Granadilla in the east, from Las Canadas National Park to the coast at Costa del Silencio. The book is available now to be purchased online and contains full walk directions, sketch maps for each walk, points of interest along the way and photographs. Each walk also has a general description along with details of grading, ascent and descent, distance, time and travel information including local bus details. Most of the walks are between three to five hours in length although there are one or two shorter ones. As with all walking on the island there is an excellent variety of scenery and landscapes to enjoy from the high altitude splendour of the Las Canadas National Park to pine forests, barrancos, remote villages and coastal paths. Where possible, I have deliberately avoided the more well known paths in the south although occasionally it was necessary to use these paths to link up routes. I hope that the book will give regular visitors to the island more opportunities to enjoy the stunning scenery on offer just a short distance from the well known resorts of the south coast.