I saw this shirt in a social media add for some super questionable company… and I knew I could make something similar. I loved the message and the combination of applique and embroidery, so here is my new favorite shirt and the tutorial of how I made it.

Made for More Applique t-shirt

I’m very pleased with how this shirt turned out. I bought the shirt and just grabbed some fabric from my stash for the words. I maybe wish there was a bit more contrast, but overall I love the look and design. All supplies will be listed below in the tutorial.

I’m still deciding if I want to shorten the shirt just a bit, although it worked great with these leggings I was wearing when I took the photos. If you are new to machine embroidery you should check out my beginner embroidery class.

More amazing Applique projects to try

• Double layer applique
• Multi-fabric applique
• Reverse applique
• Applique sign without a embroidery machine
• Sports Mom shirt applique

Applique and Embroidery shirt tutorial

Supplies I used:

• Tshirt {this one is from Hobby Lobby}
• Fabric scrap from stash
• Heat and Bond {or any applique backing}
• Embroidery clip scissors
• Embroidery machine with 9 x 9 hoop
• Two font designs I purchased
  • Narrow Sports Applique lettering
  • Handwriting machine embroidery designs
• Embroiery thread

Start by cutting a rectangle of your fabric slightly larger than your design will be. Fuse a piece of heat and bond to the back.

Remove the paper backing and set aside. I used two layers of medium tear-away in my hoop because of the stretch of the t-shirt fabric.

Add some placement marks on your shirt. I like to mark the center and either the bottom or top line of the design. Here I marked the top. Hoop the front of the shirt only, centering the hoop with the center placement marker.

Both fonts I used were purchased online, so I used a usb to transfer the letters I needed to my machine. I put two sizes of the MADE on my usb to see which one I wanted to use. Here is the design laid out.

On my machine I have the no-sew feature, so I used that to get rid of the for more letters. If you don’t have this, I would just create the MADE first and stitch it, then add the second part of the design.

For the applique stitch out the placement lines for all letters. Then add the rectangle of fabric.

Stitch the second placement/tack down layer for each letter, then remove the hoop from the machine. Use curved embroidery scissors {linked above} to carefully trim around each letter.

Then fuse the fabric to the shirt with an iron. {remember the heat and bond from the beginning? This is the second fuse of that material} Stitch out the final step for each letter, adding the satin stitch.

When the applique finished, I went back and un-did the no-sew of the second layer of letters. I arranges my for more letters so they overlapped the applique a bit, but you can adjust as you want. Stitch this out.

I ended up added the Bible reference for this phrase in the upper right hand, but you could add below or leave off. I love how this turned out and can’t wait to use this concept for other shirts and designs.

The post Applique and Embroidery Shirt tutorial appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

I’ve actually been wanting to make a dress like this for me. I bought this fabric thinking I would sew myself a tank dress… however, drafting a womens pattern is more involved and I didn’t even buy enough fabric, so this week you get a gorgeous tank dress for girls! The size range is great… 12M-14Y, although if your girl has a very developed chest, this dress may not fit well as the top is not shaped. More on that below… But… how cute is this tiered tank dress?? And today I’m sharing the free sewing pattern.

Gorgeous tiered tank dress free pattern

Rose and I are loving this new dress! As I mentioned above I have a plan to sew myself a tank dress, but I didn’t buy enough fabric and it takes longer to draft a womens woven tank due to shaping. {haha} Anyway, I sewed this up and Rose tried it on it’s just perfect.

This gorgeous tank dress is sewn from a light double gauze and even though it’s almost three yards of fabric {lots of gathers in the skirt}, but it’s still light and flowey.

The buttons on the front are functional, but this dress did go on and off without unbuttoning. Rose is wearing the size 10/12 for the tank {her chest is a 28″, so the perfect fit for this size}. The double gauze has a bit of give, due to the bumps in the gauze, but even a regular woven fabric would fit great for her in this size.

I also think this tank dress would be perfect over a fitted tee if you need to layer for spring. The skirt is so full and beautiful as well.

Other Summer dressed to sew

• Circle Dress Free pattern
• Babydoll dress free pattern
• T-shirt dress with tiered skirt
• Upcycle mens shirt to tank dress
• Knit fabric tank dress
• Tshirt dress with ruffles hack
• Onesie dress sewing hack
• Free dress pattern
• Tank pattern for woven fabric

Tiered tank dress free pdf pattern and supplies

Let’s jump into the tutorial. Here is what you will need to sew this tank dress.

• 2-4 yards of fabric. {the size 10 here used almost 3 yards} The size 14 probably needs about the same as the skirt would be the same fullness, the smaller sizes can use less fabric.
  • I used a fun double gauze fabric that is light and airy. Faux linen or other light woven fabrics would work well.
• 3-4 Buttons. Find a style and color that works for you.
• Download and print the 4 page pdf pattern using the buttons below.
  • The skirt tiered do not have printable pieces. The tutorial here and the pdf pattern have written instructions only.
• All seam allowances are 3/8″ or 1 cm.

Here’s what the four page pattern pieces will look like when assembled. You can either trace the size you want to use or cut out the pieces. Since this is only 4 pages I cut them out. Usually I trace and keep the original pattern. The back you will cut on a fold and the front you do not. You will need two backs and four fronts to sew this tank dress.

I would suggest sewing up the tank bodice, then when that is finished, cut and sew the skirt. There are suggestions for the skirt on the pdf pattern and I will also give a ton of details for cutting and sewing the skirt below in the tutorial.

Tank dress sewing tutorial

Time to get sewing! Now that you have prepped to sew {at least for the tank top} let’s dive in. Reminder, all seam allowances are 3/8″ or 1 cm. I sewed the whole thing with my serger. You can use a serger or a sewing machine straight stitch.

You should have two back pieces and four front pieces. Line up shoulder seams of one back and two fronts. Sew the shoulder seams on one set. Repeat this with the other set of tank pieces.

With right side up, lay the tank out. Place the other set on top with right sides together. Pin or clip the front opening and around the neckline and also the shoulder edges. Sew with your serger or sewing machine.

Now you should have these seams below sewn. If you used a sewing machine you will need to clip the curves on the seam allowance before turning. Bring each front piece through the shoulder to turn right side out.

Your tank bodice is now right side out. At this point I would suggest pressing and even possibly top-stitching if desired. I didn’t do either step with this double gauze, puffy fabric. If you iron it, the fabric gets flat and weird.

Next we will sew the side seams. On one side of the tank, move the open side seams close together, then will right sides of the fabric touching, match the center under arm seam. Pin or clip along the open side seam. Do this for both sides of the tank.

Sew the side seams, then fold the fabric back over to hide the seam inside the layers.

Now you have a tank bodice that is coming together. Overlap 1″ on the front pieces, pin or clip in place to mark overlap.

Arrange 3/4 buttons to your liking. Start at the very top of the neck and work down to raw edge. Do not place a button too close to the bottom or you will not be able to sew the skirt. After placing the buttons, I like to make the bottom of the button for hole placement.

Sew the buttonholes on your sewing machine. {tutorial linked if needed} Cut open the holes and then mark through the center for button placement.

Sew on the buttons.

I’m loving how this is all coming together! Now measure the bottom of your bodice, the skirt will be built off this measurement. Mark this circumference {mine was 28}, then decide how long you want the skirt to be. I wanted it around 30″ long.

You can measure your child from the shoulder top down to see how long you want the completed dress to be, or lay this tank over a dress that you like the length.

After you have your dress length {mine was 30}, divide that by three {or two if you only want two tiers} So I needed 3 tiers of 10 inches. You also want to add 1″ to each tier for seam allowance. This is how you decide the height of each tier.

Now for the width. Ideally you want each tier to be around 1.5x the width of the one before. So the first tier, my tank bottom is 28″, so my skirt tier should be around 42″, My fabric was 48″ wide, so I just went with 1 width of fabric. I kept my skirt simple, first tier 1 width of fabric, second tier 2 widths and third tier 3 widths of fabric.

If my fabric was wider than 48″ I would have not used the full width for the first tier. This is again for the size 10/12. For smaller sizes you will not want to use this much for your first tier. I cut all the strips.

For the first tier, sew the width of fabric in a circle, then gather that circle to match the size of the the bottom of the tank. Need help with gathering? See this gathering tutorial post. I used a two thread gather for this skirt, all tiers.

Evenly space the gathers. Pin or clip the gathers to the bottom of the tank top. Sew with your serger or sewing machine. Remove any gathering stitches you can still see.

For the second tier take the two pieces of fabric and sew the short ends into a circle. Gather the top of the tier.

Evenly space the gathers, then sew it to the bottom of the first tier. Remove any visible gathering stitches as before.

I like to hem the third tier before its on the skirt to make it easier to sew. I sewed the three pieces of the bottom tier into a circle, then sergered the bottom. Fold over a 1″ hem and sew with a straight stitch.

After hemming I gathered the top of the 3rd tier to match the bottom of the second. Sew it on and your tank dress is finished.

I was so thrilled to see this finished! It was a bit of work with all the gathering stitches and spreading out the gathers, but totally worth it in the end!! I would highly recommend the double gauze for this project, just so cute!

Here are a couple of outtakes from our photo shoot. {haha}

The post Tiered Tank Dress Free Pattern size 12m-14Y appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

**originally published 4/2021, updated and republished 4/2026**

I saw an ad on facebook for a circle dress made with rainbow fabric. I dreamed about making one like it for months and I can finally show my version. This circle dress turned out just like the picture and better that I imagined. PLUS… the rainbow knit is adorable!

Summer circle dress with tie shoulders

Not only did this dress turn out just as I wanted, we found the perfect location for photos on our spring break trip. These umbrellas matched the dress perfectly.

I’m also including several photos of my new version of this… sewn from a vintage sheet of woven fabric. You can see them side by side here. Also… looking for more vintage sheet projects? Check out my post here Vintage Sheet Sewing.

This dress is a full circle so it’s just the perfect twirly dress. Rose twirled so much the dress went high, so it’s a great dress to wear shorties under. Get the free shorties pattern here.

The tutorial below includes dimensions for a dress, shirt and doll version! Rose had so much fun matching here doll. Now that’s she’s older she’s holding flowers instead of a doll.

I had just enough fabric from the two yards for the long dress and the doll dress. I’m sure this dress is going to get a ton of wear this summer as we move into warmer months.

I added a little decorative stitch on this newest version, although I do need to add a tag so Rose can tell the front from the back.

Other Free dress tutorials and patterns

• Circle Sleeve dress tutorial
• Tank Christmas dress
• T-Shirt dress sewing pattern
• Flounce sleeve dress
• Gathered Shoulder dress
• Schools out dress free pattern
• Christmas dresses free patterns
• Sweet Rose Dress free pattern

How to cut a circle dress

I’m going to give you a written tutorial here, but there is a full video walk through also in this post. You may have to disable your ad blocker to see the video if you are having trouble.

Circle dress supplies:

• 2 yards of fabric. This tutorial should work with knit or woven fabric.
  • I used this rainbow bullet knit here from Sincerly Rylee. I want to try a light woven next.
• 1/2″ Double Fold Bias tape. Buy it here. 1/4″ for doll version.
• Measuring tape.
• Sharp Scissors
• fabric marker

Again, I’m going to walk you trough cutting and sewing a circle dress here, but I would highly recommend watching the video to see this in action.

Below is a scrap from the full two yards, but it show how to do the double fold. Fold the fabric in half, then in half again, just like you are making a circle skirt. The corner with only folds {no raw edges} is the center.

This chart is your guide for cutting all the options and I’ll walk you through so you know what these number mean.

For the Vintage Sheet version I used the largest dimensions here, but of course used the full length of the sheet {my circle was 36″ out from the center}

Start by cutting the main circle. This photo shows the doll length, the video shows the dress. From that double fold corner, measure and mark the length. Here I marked 9″ all around the quarter circle. Then cut with your sharp scissors. You are not going to hem the knit version, so make your cuts clean. If you are using woven fabric you will have to do a narrow hem to finish.

Now cut the neck. For the dress mark 2″ from the corner. Place several dots, then join them to create a quarter circle. On the side of the neck mark that has the TWO FOLDS {NOT the single fold showing} mark the arm opening. For the dress go down 3″ from the edge of the neck marking, then mark 1/2″ in the middle. Create a curved semi-circle from these markings. Cut these two circles then open up. The neck should be in the middle. Cut the front neckline 1/2″ deeper. The tiny doll neck is below.

Note: when using a woven {non-stretch} fabric, you may need to lower the arm openings. I removed the bias tape and cut the arm scoops 1″ lower as it was too tight. When it’s too tight under the arms, you can’t pull up the neckline if you need. Cutting it a bit lower helped! Again, this is really only an issue with woven fabric.

How to sew a circle dress

Now it’s time for a bit of sewing… Its actually very easy! This is a simple sewing tutorial with just a couple of straight stitched. Grab your double fold 1/2″ bias tape {1/4″ for the doll version} I didn’t have 1/2″ so I sewed two strips of 1/4″ together to create wider bias tape.

Turn the dress so the arm openings are up. Pin or click the bias tape along both arm openings. The fabric should be fully sandwiched between the bias tape. You do not need any overhang on the edges. Trim the edges. Sew along the edge to secure to the fabric. Use a straight stitch or zig zag to sew. {the video shows this} Repeat with the other arm.

The method for the neck is almost the same, but leave a 10″ strap for the dress and shirt versions. For the doll you just need a couple inches. Clip and sew. When you sew, also sew down the strap to sew the bias tape to itself. Tie knots on the ends of the straps to control any fraying.

You can now tie knots or bows for the shoulder. Enjoy your fun doll or girl dresses.

I put a tag on the back of the dress and I love the neckline. Not too long but perfect for summer. Enjoy! Make sure to share photos in our Facebook group!

The post How to Sew A Circle Dress appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

It’s been very very unseasonably warm here. We changed out the winter duvet inserts to our summer ones and it was also time for summer style Pjs! Rose needed new summer pajamas for sure, and with how warm it is, I decided to sew some up this week.

Summer pajamas from free sewing patterns

This easy top and shorts was a quick sew, but they turned out just how we wanted and have been worn every night since making them.

We picked out the rib knit together at the store, and Rose also chose the sublimation print to add. I choose the two free pdf patterns I used here.

I finished the hems with a lettuce style hem using my serger and I LOVE the look. The arm edges didn’t stretch and ruffle quite as well due to the direction of stretch on the fabric. It’s still cute, but the lettuce hem works best going the direction of greatest stretch.

I’ll share how easy it is to put these patterns together below, and also the links to the two free patterns I used.

Other free pajama patterns to try

• Simple Pj set
• Vintage Sheet Pajamas
• Womens PJ/Lounge shorts
• Womens longer vintage sheet pjs
• 1 hour pj tutorial
• DIY striped fabric and robot Pjs

how to sew pjs with free pdf patterns

Ok, first, here are the links to the patterns used. I’m also sharing the quick sew tutorials below, but if you need more sewing help, please refer to the original tutorials for these patterns. I bought 1.5 yard of the rub knit to make these pjs in size 10/12 and I have fabric left. I think I just just a bit over a yard.

Summer shorts full original sewing tutorial

Crop top original sewing tutorial

Below you can see the pieces cut out. TWO shorts pieces, FRONT and BACK crop top {added 2 inches length}, Neck back for top. Not pictured – 1 inch elastic to finish the shorts.

Let’s start by sewing up the top. Use a serger for all seams OR a zig-zag on your sewing machine. Sew the shirt front and back together at one shoulder.

Add the neckband to the open neckline. {need help with your neckband? Neckband tutorial here}

With right sides together, sew the other shoulder seam. Sew the side seams of the shirt from arm edge to bottom edge.

Now sew the shirt to the side. {if using regular hems, you can fold over edges and hem now} Lettuce hem details below.

Place the two shorts pieces right sides together, sew the front and back curved crotch seams.

Open up the shorts and sew the inseam, matching the front and back seams.

Measure the elastic to fit the waist you are sewing for. Sew the elastic into a circle, then stretch evenly along the top of the pants. Pin or clip in place.

Sew elastic to top edge of shorts, stretching as you sew. Use a serger or zig-zag stitch to sew to the top of the shorts.

Fold the fabric and elastic over. I like to sew from the right side, stretch and sew the elastic to finish the top. Need help with this step? See my Elastic Waistband tutorial.

I used a zig-zag to secure the folded over fabric and elastic. Now its time to finish the bottom of the shorts and the bottom and sleeves of the top. I used a lettuce style hem on my serger to complete the look. You can also create this look on your sewing machine. Need help with this? Here is my Lettuce Hem tutorial.

Now you can sleep well in your new summer pjs all summer long!

The post How to sew Summer Pjs – two free pdf patterns appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

Fabric shopping has shifted drastically over the past few years. Especially with the closing of Joann Fabric stores. Do you like to order fabric online for sewing? I do! 95% of my fabric comes from online fabric stores and today I’m sharing a few of my favorite spring fabrics AND where to buy them. Updated links and fabrics 3/2026

I hope you will find some new fabric and fabric stores here in this post. I’m in full swing of spring summer sewing and have been stocking up on spring fabric for over a month already. Who is ready for spring fabric shopping!!

My Favorites: Spring Fabric for sewing clothing

Ok! First let’s talk about the type of fabric I sew with in the spring and summer. I use a lot of swim fabric, board shorts fabric, double brushed poly, cotton lycra, and other light fabrics that breathe well.

This will not be an exhaustive list of fabrics and projects to sew with spring fabrics. All fabric links are at the bottom of this post!!

Swim Fabric –

First up swim! I sew all my kids swim and love to shop adorable swim fabric. The best part of sewing my own swim is that I can achieve a custom fit for my hard to fit daughter and make swim shorts that my boys love.

The swim fabric from the shops I’ve shared below does not fade and is high quality! My kids do swim team and the fabric lasts all summer with daily swims {and we never rinse off the chemicals} Check out my Girls Classic Swim Suit pattern HERE. And the Boys Board shorts pattern HERE.

• Swim Fabric on Raspberry Creek Fabrics
• Swim Fabric on Knit Fabric {dot} com

Double Brushed Poly –

This is one of my favorite fabrics year round. This fabric makes amazing leggings, shirts and dresses. I recently used it for the short sleeve version of the twirly dress plus I always sew summer shortie leggings. Super soft and amazing to touch this fabric can be a bit warm if you live in a very hot climate, but for most of the world this can work all year round. You can get great brushed poly on FWD.com, Raspberry Creek Fabrics, Sincerely Rylee and Knit Fabric

• Summer Shortie Leggings
• Short Sleeve Twirly Dress
• Boys T-shirt
• Girls Fitted Tee
• Swing Tee

You can also sew shirts from classic t-shirt fabric. This is a lot less stretchy {usually only two way or slight four way} but is more of a classic tee fabric. This t-shirt fabric is called tri-blend on some sites… its so lovely for shirt, tanks and dresses

Rib Knit-

My new spring summer fabric of choice! Adore rib knit!! I’ll be sharing another post with it soon, but for now you can see the matching dresses I made from it here. Use it for shirts, skirts and dresses for a fun a modern look.

Cotton Fabric –

If you are looking for fun cotton fabrics from spring I’ve for you covered there as well. Things I like to sew with cotton.

• Tiered Skirt Pattern and tutorial
• Draw string Makeup Bag
• Gathered Skirt

Rayon Challis

This is a beautiful and lightweight woven fabric. Perfect for dresses and skirts.

• Skirt with pockets
• Ruffled Sleeve Dress free pattern kids
• Flowing spring dress – for women
• Ruffled Sleeve dress for women

Athletic Knit

You need athletic clothes all year round!! Sew leggings and tops with this fun fabric.

Stretch Lace –

Use as overlays, for skirts or tops, lace can add a fun details to your spring and summer clothes. Here are a few ways I’ve used streth lace

• Lace shirt overlay
• Double Skirt on dress
• Tulle and cotton skirt {use lace instead of the tulle}
• Wrap Dress
• Racerback tank with lace panel

Where to buy my favorite spring fabric

My favorites: Spring Fabrics

I adore sewing for spring and this list of must have fabrics is super helpful. I have personally ordered from all of these shops and can say that

Swim Fabric

Photo Credit: www.peekaboopatternshop.com

Excellent quality swim fabric from Peek A Boo Fabric shop

Read More

Special seasonal fabric

Photo Credit: raspberrycreekfabrics.com

Raspberry Creek Fabric is unique in the fact that they release seasonal lines of fabric several times a year. Their club releases on several base fabrics.

Read More

Swim and Performance

Photo Credit: raspberrycreekfabrics.com

I love the RCF swim lines. The swim fabric and board short fabric is fade proof and my kids wear them for seasons without wearing out.

Read More

Knit Apparel Fabrics

Photo Credit: raspberrycreekfabrics.com

I love the double brushed poly from RCF. I use for leggings, dresses, shirts and more!

Read More

Double Brushed Poly

Photo Credit: www.peekaboopatternshop.com

Double Brushed Poly from Peek a Boo Fabric, perfect for leggings, shirts, dresses and mor

Read More

stretch lace

Photo Credit: raspberrycreekfabrics.com

This stretch lace is AMAZING. Beautiful for shirts and dresses!

Read More

Board Shorts

Photo Credit: www.peekaboopatternshop.com

Board short fabric that does not fade from Peek a Boo

Read More

Specialty Fabric

Photo Credit: www.thestyledmagnolia.com

The Styled Magnolia has beautiful fabric. I was able to order several yards from them a few months ago. Most of their fabric runs on pre-orders... so be prepared to wait.

Read More

Rib knit

Photo Credit: raspberrycreekfabrics.com

Read More

Rib Knit

Photo Credit: sincerelyrylee.com

I order all the time from Sincerly Rylee as her inventory changes weekly. Great sales and the most beautiful modern fabrics. This rib knit is divine.

Read More

Swiss dot chiffon woven

Photo Credit: sincerelyrylee.com

Read More

Rayon Challis

Photo Credit: raspberrycreekfabrics.com

Read More

BUNDLES

Photo Credit: sincerelyrylee.com

Sincerely Rylee bundles are a great way to try new fabrics and expand your collection. I often go for the mystery bundles because the prices are unbeatable. great way to get a deal.

Read More

Athletic fabric

Photo Credit: greenstylecreations.com

Read More

T-Shirt Knit

Photo Credit: knitfabric.com

Read More

Tri-blend: T-shirt knit

Photo Credit: raspberrycreekfabrics.com

Read More

The post My favorites: Spring Fabrics for sewing appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

I love making tote bags. I’ve sewn many many over the years and often try to find a slightly new and different way to sew a tote each time. Today my tote bag is made of sweatshirt fleece {soft and cozy!} and it has a fun little border on the top for a pop of color.

Sweatshirt fleece tote bag

I had these scraps of sweatshirt fleece in my stash and wanted to try making a tote, and adding sublimation to to the grey fleece. I wasn’t sure how the sublimation would stand out on the grey, but it worked perfectly and I will be making a grey sweatshirt with sublimation soon! The colors are still so vibrant.

I also added a small border on the top of the tote for another pop of color. The finished tote is fabulous and I’m very pleased with the result. Below you will find the tutorial to sew this tote yourself.

Other fun tote tutorials to try

Here are several other tote bags I’ve sewn over the years and the tutorial that goes with them. Enjoy!

• Leaf embroidery box side tote
• Woven webbing tote
• Simple Summer tote
• Canvas and cork tutorial
• Zip-side tote
• Pool towel/blanket tote

How to sew a sweatshirt tote bag tutorial

Ok! Let’s jump into making this bag. Of course you can use this type of fabric with another method of tote bag making, but I’m going to show you how I made this one. Here is what you will need:

• Sweatshirt fleece
• Strapping
• Sublimation printer {optional}

Cut two rectangles. You can adjust the size as needed, but I cut mine:

• 12.5″ x 26
• 12.5″ x 29 {this is the lining piece}
• Strapping 27″ – cut 2

You will cut long rectangles for the main and lining piece. The fold of this rectangle becomes the bottom of the bag. The pieces should be the same width {narrow side} and different lengths.

Find the center of the outer piece and mark. If you are adding sublimation to the front {or vinyl or any other decoration}, print that design now.

Place the front of the bag on a pressing pad or ironing board. Center the printed sublimation on this front section.

I pressed for 40 seconds at 365 degrees, but check the directions with your printer. I like to peel back just a corner to check the transfer before completely lifting. If it seems the ink has not transferred all the way, you can press again.

Fold this piece in half with right sides together and pin or clip the sides. Sew both sides with a 3/8″ seam allowance.

Do the same with the lining piece, but leave a 4″ opening on one side. See where my fingers are pointing below. This will be the hole where you turn the bag right side out. Sew the side seams of the lining.

Turn the outer piece right side out and slide it inside the lining piece.

Take your pieces of strapping and place the straps about 1-2″ from the side seams. Pin or clip the straps in place, then tuck the straps between the two layers of sweatshirt fleece. Repeat with the other side of the bag.

Add more clips to secure the layers of fleece together and hold the straps in place where they are. Sew with about a 1/2″ seam allowance around the top of the bag. I backstitched over the placed where the straps were to reinforce. Sew all the way around.

Pull the bag out through the hole int he lining. Turn the seam allowance in and pin or clip. Sew close to the edge and close the hole.

Push the lining inside the bag, but leave the fold about 1″ above the outside fabric. This will add the color of the lining fabric at the top of the bag and add a nice top. Pin this 1″ fold, making sure the seams allowance is folding down towards the bag. Sew a close top stitch on either side of the seam to finish the bag. Now you can fill, use and enjoy!!

The post Tote Bag with Sweatshirt fleece tutorial appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

Several years ago I made some cork cuffs very similar to these. {see the link below} This time around we just made best friend cuffs for my daughter and her friends and they turned out so so cute! I also found this fun, colorful cork strapping, and that added a fun element to this project.

Best friends cork bracelet

My daughter and her friends are all into best friends gear, bracelets, necklaces, shirts… These cork cuffs are super quick to make and fun to wear. The cork is soft and comfy on your wrist.

You can make all the bracelets the same or change up the font or thread colors. I decided to go with the same font, but mix up the colors.

Other fun cork projects to try

Here are few other fun tutorials with cork that you should try. Cork is versatile and easy to work with, be inspired for some fun cork projects here.

• Cork Earrings
• Embroidered cork bracelets
• Cork School supplies tote
• Canvas tote with cork straps

Cork Bracelet embroidery tutorial

Ok! If you are familiar with embroidery, you probably already know exactly how to make these cute bracelets, but if you haven’t done much with embroidery, this is a great starter project as well.

Here’s what you need to create this fun cork and embroidery project:

• Cork Strapping {any color}
• Embroidery machine
• Adhesive stabilizer
• Kam Snaps and clamp to set them

Match the bobbin color to the cork as closely as you can. You can choose any color for the top thread.

Hoop the adhesive stabilizer and then peel off the paper backing. Cut the cork straps to size as well. I cut mine about 7.25″ long {for my daughter and her friends}.

Use the adhesive stabilizer to stick the strapping in the hoop. I ended up rotating my stabilizer to better hoop the cork.

Use clips if needed to hold the straps in place. Create the text with built in font from your embroidery machine {or transfer in from another source}

Start with a single bracelet and align the needle with the center of a cork cuff. Embroider one cuff at a time.

Align the needle center for each strap, then embroider the text.

When you finish, remove the hoop from the machine.

Pull the cork off the stabilizer.

I used a pin to pick out the extra stabilizer, but you can also use water to help it dissolve. Clip any longer threads.

Round the corners of both ends with a scissors, then set a snap on either end. Make sure that you put in the snaps with one up and one down so it will go on properly. Ask me how I know {haha}

Now you have super cute cork cuff best friend bracelets to wear and give to your besties! {Or in this case, my daughter can give to her besties.

The post Best Friend Cork Bracelets tutorial appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

Last year I bought this super cute t-shirt with a flower bouquet embroidered on the left side. Of course as soon as I bought it I thought I could make it myself. At the time I didn’t have a bouquet design, but recently I opened up the Artpsira app and saw the PERFECT flower bouquet design. It was finally the time to recreate this most beautiful shirt.

Flower Bouquet Embroidered Shirt

Here is my inspiration shirt. The grey shirt is the one I bought last year, and the black one on the left is the one I’m going to use to recreate this look. I do love this shirt and now I’m excited to have two shirts with beautiful embroidery.

This shirt is going to be perfect for spring. I’m excited to make a few more with different color shirts and thread colors for the bouquet. There are also a couple different bouquet designs I want to try on the Artspira App.

Other Embroidery tutorials to try

Here are some other embroidery projects to try.

• Puffy foam Embroidery
• Shirt Pocket embroidery
• Double layer glitter embroidery
• Embroidery on cardstock
• Couching and Embroidery for clothing
• Fix a hole with embroidery

How to make an embroidered shirt with flower bouquet

Ok! Here’s what you need to create this fun flower bouquet shirt.

• Tshirt – any will do… or here’s my free tshirt pattern for women
• Artspira app or other flower bouquet design. Search flower bouquet in the app, or here another design that might work. Flower Bouquet design here.
• Embroidery stabilizer – use two layers.
• Fusible embroidery backing

Start by marking the center of your left upper pocket area, then a top and bottom marker. Hoop this area. Make sure to use two layers of stabilizer under the knit fabric to keep everything in place.

Transfer the design to your machine and place the hoop on the machine. Position the design over your markings, then remove the pins.

Stitch out the design.

When you finish stitching out the design, remove it from the machine and clip all the threads. On the back side, cut or tear away the stabilizer layers. You can add a layer of fusible embroidery backing if the stabilizer is scratchy.

I love how simple and quick this project was the sew. It looks so cute too!

The post Embroidered Shirt tutorial – Flower Bouquet appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

I sewed up a few of these before Christmas for my boys and my nephew. My oldest has been driving for a while now and uses a lanyard like this to hold is keys and a small wallet for everything else. This lanyard wallet has a clear ID pocket, inside pocket for cards and a separate zipper pocket for cash or other cards. The O-ring on the back side is securely sewn into the wallet to make sure it stays on the lanyard. Enjoy this free pdf pattern and tutorial!

Double Zipper Wallet for Lanyards

I had bought him a super popular simple wallet, but the place where you hooked it on the lanyard kept breaking, so his wallet would end up left in places it shouldn’t be. After trying to fix it many times I decided to make one with a more secure attachment piece. I saw a double zipper wallet like this online and they played around until I was able to create something similar. We love the results!

This wallet has a small pocket on the back, two zipper pockets {one with ID window}, and another inside pocket divider.

With the dark fabric it is a bit tricky to see the pockets. The first photo shows the window pocket and the divider inside. The second photo is the other zipper pocket.

Other amazing wallet and bag patterns to try

I love designing and using new bags and wallets and here are several that I’ve made over the years. Here are many that I have created for a variety of uses. I have lots of big bags as well, but here are some of my smaller wallets and bag patterns.

• Wristlet wallet Sewing pattern
• Card and coin wallet for keychain sewing tutorial
• Kids simple wallet
• Bottle Carrier with wallet pocket
• Small bunny cinch sacks
• Cross body bag
• Zippered cross body bag

Supplies for the zipper lanyard wallet

Here are the supplies needed for this project. I used rip-stop fabric for the zipper wallet, and that’s what I’ll show here, but you can try other light, strong fabrics if you want. Tutorial for custom, embroidered lanyard.

• Free pdf pattern {linked below}
• a small bit of rip stop fabric
• 2- 5” zippers I used 7″ zippers and shortened them
• Clear vinyl
• scrap of bias tape
• 9” of 3/4” wide ribbon
• O ring or D ring
• Buy or make a lanyard.
  • Strapping
  • Crimp end
  • 1″ swivel hook

Here is a preview of the video upgrade. You can watch the first 2 min of the 10 ish minute video to see if this is something you would like to purchase.

Here are the fabric cuts you should have-

• Three main pieces {I did two of one color and the third of another color}
• One window piece {window not cut yet in photo}
• One smaller pocket piece
• One clear vinyl piece {super hard to see in photo -haha}

How to sew a zipper wallet for a lanyard

Ok! Now that your fabric is all cut out you are ready to get sewing! Take one of the main pieces, and the smaller pocket piece. On the main piece you will fold 1/4″ over on the long side, sew, then fold over another 1/4″ and sew again. Now that long edge is fully finished and both sides of the pocket can be used.

Repeat on the short edge of the smaller pocket piece.

Now time to make the window side. In the V of each corner of the window, make a 1/4″ clip. Fold this 1/4″ to the back of the fabric and press/pin.

Add the piece of clear vinyl to the BACK side and pin or clip to the outer edge. When you flip to the front you can see the pins on the seam allowance. Now you want to sew from the front side close to the fold edge of the window. This seam will attach the vinyl to the backside AND keep the fabric around the window folded back.

NOTE: while clipping/pinning and sewing try to keep the window corners square. It’s easy to distort this shape, so sew slowly.

Trim the vinyl to around 1/2″ from the stitching. The second photo shows this piece from the front side as well.

Now we will create the back pocket piece. Take one main piece and the ribbon and key chain ring. Thread the ribbon through the ring, fold the ends together and place the ends on the short side of the main piece. Tack the ribbon in the center. Add the smaller pocket on top of the ribbon. Sew the bottom only.

Open up the fabric and tack the ribbon to the center of the pocket, this will keep it from sliding and keep it secure since this is where the lanyard attaches.

Sew up the side of this pocket piece {seen here from the back}, trim any extra fabric.

Take the pocket piece, the window piece and one zipper.

With right sides together and a zipper foot on your sewing machine, sew one side of the zipper to the pocket side. Add the window side to the other side of the zipper. Make sure the sides are lined up and sew. Now you should have the pocket on one side of a zipper and the ID window on the other. The right side of the zipper should face up when looking at it like the second photo.

Turn this piece over to see the back side. Take the bigger pocket you finished at the beginning. Slide the pocket over the BACK side of the window and baste into place by sewing the sides and bottom.

Place the piece right side up again, with the window on the bottom and and pocket on the top. Fold the pocket piece over and down to cover the window. You can see this in the first photo here. Now take the final main piece and lay it on top of the pocket you folded over. Line up the top edge along the zipper and sew this piece to the zipper with a zipper foot.

Now there is a flap in the middle of the window and pocket piece. When you open up the wallet and lay it down you will also now see the pocket behind the window.

Here is the pocket behind the window.

Lay the wallet open and add the second zipper on the window edge. Make sure the zipper tab is on the same side as the first zipper. Sew zipper with right sides together with a zipper foot.

After the zipper is sewn the to the window edge, fold over the pocket side and sew the long side to the other side of the zipper. Right side of the pocket should be sewn to the right side of the zipper.

Now you should have sort of a tube, with the short ends open and the zippers on top and bottom. Its time to trim the zippers. Make sure the zipper tabs are INSIDE the fabric before trimming any extra zipper. On the zipper that is exposed, make sure it’s open at least 2/3rds of the way as you will use this to turn right side out.

After trimming the zippers you can finish bother sides of the zipper with bias tape to give a more finished look. Keep this zipper open for turning.

Now you will sew the short sides. Pin or clip to keep the zippers right on the fold. See the photo below {zippers are not trimmed in this photo, but should be at this point} Sew the short sides of this wallet. I used about a 3/8 seam allowance, then also finished the raw edge with a zig-zag stitch. You could also add bias tape here, but I was trying not to add bulk.

Turn right side out through the open zipper. Now you should have a zipper on the top and one on the bottom that both open different pockets.

Cut lanyard to desired length, then sew a swivel hook or clamp and crimp on the end. Tutorial for my custom embroidered lanyard here, plus it shows how to sew in the swivel clip.

Attach your lanyard to the ring on the back of this wallet for a secure attachment. Add your ID and and cards and cash and you are ready to go!

The post Zipper wallet for Lanyard free pattern and tutorial appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

My boys are both driving these days {ahhhh!} and they carry keys and a small wallet on a lanyard. Apparently this is what all the cool kids are doing these days {haha}. So, instead of a plain strap, I decided to try out making a custom lanyard to see what they thought. It was a huge hit and the fan part is you have total control over the customization.

DIY Custom Embroidered Lanyard tutorial

There aren’t too many things these days that my teen boys are asking me to sew. I fix and mend things for them {and they are grateful} but they aren’t really asking me to sew clothes for them anymore… And honestly, by the time I buy enough fabric, sewing bigger sizes is expensive.

I was excited to try this little project for my boys though. And next weeks post will also be a boy project too!! You can use a lanyard metal end to finish this project, or sew on a swivel hook as seen here. Both options will be linked below.

Other fun embroidery tutorials

Here are a few other embroidery projects that might be useful for teens!

• Custom Shirt embroidery
• How to embroider on fleece
• Sew on patches with embroidery
• Cork Cuff tutorial

How to make an embroidered lanyard

Supply list:

• Strapping {width can be whatever you want. 1″ is standard}
• Lanyard end
• Swivel hook end
• Embroidery machine
• Adhesive stabilizer
• {optional} water soluble topper stabilizer
• Assorted embroidery thread
• Design to embroider or Artspira App

Hoop the stabilizer paper size up, then tear away the paper. Use grid lines on your cutting mat or a ruler to make sure your straps are straight in the hoop. Place the part of the strap in the hoop that you want to stitch on.

Create a design in Artspira or use one from your machine. Make sure the design is not as wide as your strap. Transfer the design to your machine.

Align the design with the center of the strap. I love the laser light feature on this machine for that reason. Stitch out each color.

I should have changed the color of my text in my Artspira design as it lumped the name and other black stitching together. I was able to just stop the machine and change thread as it went to make the name orange.

If your stitches aren’t coming out as well as you would like, try adding a layer or two of clear topping to the strap. This really helps give the stitches a little lift and they almost always look better.

Remove the topper, then use a spray bottle or sponge to dissolve the rest of the material.

Slide the swivel hook onto the strap. Use a wide/close zig-zag to sew the strap together in a circle, overlap the strapping about 1/4″.

Place that zig-zag seam right on the fold of the hook. This will “hide” the seam as best you can. Fold the strap over and pinch both sides. Now you want to stitch as close as you can to the plastic swivel. I used my zipper foot AND moved my needle over to the right as far as I could to try and get close.

Here is the finished custom lanyard. So fun and you can be as unique and creative as you want with this project.

The post Custom embroidered lanyard tutorial appeared first on Life Sew Savory.