I saw a set like this on an ad for a cheap foreign company and knew I could recreate it. I ordered some fabric, looked through my free pattern library and came up with this cute linen summer set. The look turned out so cute, and the ruffles were great too. I’ve never done a ruffled neck like this, but it turned out so cute! You can find all the details to create this look as well using two free patterns and the hacks found here.

Linen summer set

I used a beautiful faux linen with slight stretch from Sincerely Rylee fabrics for this project. I wanted a different color, but the others were sold out since I was a bit late to order. It has a great little bit of stretch, which makes it easy to work with and so comfy to wear.

I used two free patterns to create this look and will share the pattern hacks below to accomplish the design. The pleats and ruffles on the top are so fun! I think the ruffled neck is my favorite.

I should have lengthened the top about another inch and maybe sized up just a bit on the pattern for the fabric choice. We are pretty pleased with the final look though. Of course the pockets are a big hit.

The waistband and pockets are a different color because I ran out of fabric. I had 2 yards and I needed 2.5. I adjusted for this in the supply list below. I don’t mind the contrast, but that’s the reason.

The keyhole at the back neck makes this pattern work with woven fabric and adds a cute detail.

Summer set free sewing patterns

Here are the supplies you will need to sew up this fun linen summer set.

• Linen or faux linen… Mine is faux from Sincerely Rylee fabric. I used 2.5 yards for a size 10.
  • rustic linen
  • Any medium weight fabric will work for this, but softer is of course better
  • I think a double gauze fabric would be lovely too.
• Free patterns- Used here were:
  • Kids crop top
  • Family Pj free pattern
• Hook and eye closure or button/elastic closure
• Fabric marking pen
• 2″ wide elastic for pants
• Sewing machine and or Serger
• All seam allowance is 3/8″ unless otherwise marked

Print sewing patterns and trace out {or cut out} size desired, blending sizes as needed. For the crop top I lengthen by 5 inches {can measure child or use a shirt they like to add length} and also cut the arm/shoulder down to about 1″ wide from under arm curve.

For adding pleats to the front you need a piece of fabric just leave as a rectangle. You can see below how I have my pattern laid out on the folded fabric. A bit of room on the top/bottom and 3-5 inches of extra width.

Tutorial to sew a linen summer set

NOTE: 3/8″ seam allowance unless otherwise marked.

Use a fabric marker or tailors chalk to mark out pleats. I drew 5 with a single center and two on each side. If I did it again I would make two in the middle so I can press to the sides. It was hard to press the center flat. I love my water soluble pen for marking.

Fold the fabric so the center marking is on the fold, then pin or clip and sew a 1/4″ seam to create the pleat.

Repeat with each pleat, one at a time. Then fold fabric in half with center pleat or center of pleat{s} on the fold line. The bottom of the pattern won’t line up anymore as the pleats added width.

For the back you will just cut as the pattern is printed. Make sure to cut the higher back neckline. After you cut on the pattern on the fold, cut a key hole on the back center neckline. Mine is approx 3″ down and 1″ in on the neck. You can make it more rounded or keep leaf shaped like mine. Keep that piece you just cut out.

Take the cut out scrap and lay it on a larger scrap of fabric. Trace around the cut out and then 1.25″ out from the shape – this will be the facing.

Finish the outer edge of the facing with your serger or a zig-zag. Pin or clip right sides together to the back of the shirt.

Sew with normal seam allowance. Clip bottom if a V shape, if a circle shape, clip the whole curve.

Turn to back side and pin or clip in place. Press if necessary.

Top-stitch very close to folded edge, then on outer edge of facing as well.

With right sides together sew shoulder seams.

Measure around neck opening. You will need to cut a ruffle about double this length. Mine was 17″.

My ruffle is 36″ x 3″ wide. Adjust the length as needed, but cut it 3″ wide for the neck ruffle. Fold in half. Sew two gathering stitches along the raw edge of the strip. Need help gathering? Check out my gathering tutorial here.

Pull the threads to gather to the desired length. The ends of your gathered ruffle are open. Fold in 3/8″ on the end of the ruffle to finish the edge. Sew down this turned in edge.

Pin or clip to neckline, matching up the back edges. I like the serger finish on this ruffled edge. Fold the ruffle up and top-stitch to finish.

Measure the arm/shoulder opening. Cut your ruffles about 2x the length and this time 4 inches wide. Cut two of these.

Fold the fabric in half and sew gathering stitches on raw side. Gather to length of shoulder, then pin or clip, right sides together.

Sew ruffle to shoulder, then flip open and top-stitch. Repeat on other shoulder. With right sides of the shirt together, sew the side seams. Start at the edge of ruffle, then sew around the curve and down the side.

I serged around the bottom of the shirt, then turned up a 1/2″ hem and stitched on my sewing machine.

To finish the keyhole you need a hook and eye, or small button and thread elastic. I had a hook and eye so I used that. On the back side of the neck ruffle, sew each piece of the closure. the edge of the hook and the edge of the eye should line up with the edge of the keyhole opening.

When closed the fabric should touch or very nearly touch. Here is the inside and outside view.

I used a damp towel to blot the fabric pen markings. Now onto the cute pants!

How to sew linen pants from a free pattern.

Ok! Now its time to sew up the pants. These are much simpler, but I did hack a pattern just a bit, so I will explain what I did.

Here is the supply list again from the top.

• Linen or faux linen… Mine is faux from Sincerely Rylee fabric. I used 2.5 yards for a size 10.
  • rustic linen
  • Any medium weight fabric will work for this, but softer is of course better
  • I think a double gauze fabric would be lovely too.
• Free patterns- Used here were:
  • Kids crop top
  • Family Pj free pattern
• Hook and eye closure or button/elastic closure
• Fabric marking pen
• 2″ wide elastic for pants
• Sewing machine and or Serger
• All seam allowance is 3/8″ unless otherwise marked

Because I am adding a waistband and the family pj pattern is meant to just fold over, the first adjustment is to cut off 1″ from the top. I also lowered the top another 1″ because Rose likes it lower rise. Cut a waistband 5″ tall and the same width as the top of the pants.

I wanted to add side pockets, so do do that I need side seams. I folded the pants in half, matching the crotch at the fold. The front will be higher than the back. Cut the legs in half on the fold line. If The back side of the legs will wider than the front. For a wider leg look you can widen the front to match the back – see where I’m pointing in the second photo. Extend the side of the front leg to match the back.

Cut out two pockets {if desired}. Here is a pocket template if needed. Place the two side seams of the pant fronts side by side and with right sides together place a pocket edge on the side. It should be 1″ down from the top edge. {I cut my pockets on a fold, so it looks a bit strange here} Sew the pocket in place.

Fold the pocket open and top-stitch. Repeat with the pockets on the back sides, with right sides of fabric together.

Take one front and one back and line up the side seams with the pocket out the side. Pin or clip down the side and around the pocket. I sewed the whole thing with my serger, but I did reinforce the top and bottom angle of the pocket with a zig-zag first as those angles are hard on the serger.

Once you have sewed up the side you can open and see the pocket. Repeat with the other pair of legs.

Match the fronts of the curved crotch seam together and the back curved seams together and sew.

Match the center crotch seams and line up the inseams. Pin or clip down from the center. If the bottoms don’t quite line up due to pattern alteration, just trim a flat hem later.

Next lay the waistband at the top of the pants and cut to right size. Sew short end to form a circle.

Fold in half the long way and line up the seam of the waistband with the back seam of the pants. Pin or clip the three raw edges together. Sew in place, leaving a 3″ opening at the back.

Cut elastic 1″ shorter then childs waist, then thread through the opening. Overlap the ends of the elastic and sew closed. Pull elastic inside the casing and then sew the waistband hole closed.

You can leave the waistband as is, or sew two parallel lines of top-stitching to hold in place and add a bit of detail. Stretch the elastic as you sew the straight stitch lines to avoid puckers.

I serged the bottom edge of the pants, then turned under a 1/2″ hem. You can also turn up 1/4″ then another 1/2″ if you don’t have a serger. Now you can enjoy the beautiful matching linen summer set you just created!!

The post Linen summer set free patterns and tutorial appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

A few weeks ago I shared a new free pattern for a girls button front tank dress and Rose has already worn the dress several times, it’s so perfect! I wanted to make a women’s version of this dress and it just took me a few more weeks to figure out the top bodice so it fit well. I’m so excited for this version of the dress that I sewed up last week, and I’ve already ordered fabric to make another one.

Tank sundress with button front

Ok! Let’s dive into talking about this dress. First, it turned out just as I wanted, and second, it takes quite a bit of material for the skirt! As you can see it’s very full! This fabric was only 44″ wide, so I used 4.5 yards of fabric. If your fabric was 60″ wide you could use close to 4, maybe 5 for the larger sizes.

I added pockets {of course!} and I love this feature. The only thing that isn’t my favorite is that you can see some of the lines where I joined fabric vertically for my tiers. I think this will be better after a washing. And of course I could always iron {haha – who am I kidding}

I found these cute flowers at Hobby Lobby and if you shop when fabric is 40% of it would be a great deal. This dress would also be great in the double gauze that I made the kids version in a few weeks ago.

I took these photos so you can see the arm and back coverage, the top is not tight, but the coverage is perfect.

I may scoop my next version slightly lower in the front, but this is pretty good like this. You can also make a wider shoulder version, instructions are below.

Other summer dresses to sew

Here are some other free patterns and tutorials for dresses you should check out.

• Girls Tank Sundress
• Circle Dress sewing tutorial
• Babydoll dress free pattern
• Tiered dress free pattern
• Knit tank dress pattern kids
• Womens knit tank dress
• t-shirt dress free pdf pattern
• 15 dresses to sew post
• girls tank dress

Supplies for sewing a woven fabric tank sundress

Here is what you need to make this gorgeous dress. Right up front I’m going to remind you that LIGHT weight fabric is a must! My dress is nearly five yards of fabric, but is still super light and easy to wear as the fabric is light. I’ll like a few options below.

Here is the size chart for your reference. Waist is not nearly as important as the bust. This is your FULL bust measurement {measure right across the biggest part of your chest. I was a 36 and sewed as size M}

• Lightweight fabric. {Sincerely Rylee Airflow fabric}{Raspberry Creek Airflow} {blue shown in this post – from Hobby Lobby} {double gauze fabric}
  • 4-6 yards depending on size and fabric width
• Five to six 1″ buttons
• sewing clips – I have theses exact ones and they are 8 years old and going strong!
• Sewing machine and or Serger
• Download pdf pattern using blue button below

After you download and print the pattern you will assemble it so it looks like this. The pdf pattern is the printable bodice pieces, you will just cut strips of fabric to gather and sew for the skirt. More details on the pdf and in the tutorial below.

Button from tank dress sewing tutorial

You will cut out the pattern pieces from the printed PDF pattern first. You will have two back main, and four back sides. Four fronts and four front sides. Transfer the black line marking from the pattern to the fabric. All seams at 3/8″ or 1 cm. Sew with a serger or sewing machine.

With right sides together, take a back main piece and place one back side on the curve, matching the fabric marking. Ease the curves on either side of the marks. Pin or clip in place.

Here is the back with sides sewn. Repeat with the other back piece and the four fronts.

Press the seam allowance in towards the main body side of the bodice. Press on the front and back side of the fabric.

Take two fronts and one back piece and pin or clip at the shoulders. Sew the shoulder seams. Repeat with the other set of pieces. At this point you will try on – see below. If you want to take in the shoulders, cut 1″ off the outer shoulder, front and back laid together, easing the curve to just below the middle dart seam.

Here is my try on after sewing a muslin. I can take in the darts just a smidge, and I also folded under the shoulder to see if I wanted to make the narrow shoulder adjustment. Next time I may take a bit off the neckline and scoop the neck a bit more as well. Its easier to take off than add on, so I’ve given you the full coverage pieces to start.

Take your main and lining pieces and line them up at the shoulders and down around the front overlap. Do the same with the arm openings, making sure to match the center dart seams. Sew these pieces together.

With the back facing you, pull the front flaps through the shoulders. Press if needed. When I used the double gauze I did not press the fabric, due to the nature of the fabric. This fabric I did press.

Match the bodice sides, right sides and matching the center seam. Pin or clip then sew.

Top-stitch close to the edges along the neck and arm openings.

Arrange the buttons to see how many you need to use. I would not place more than 2″ apart. Arrange to your liking. Mark the button placement.

Sew the buttons to the bodice. Overlap the front edges 1″. Mark the buttonhole placement and sew buttonholes. Need help using your machine to sew buttonholes? Check out my buttonhole tutorial here.

Because this fabric likes to fray a bit, I like to put a drop of fray check on the button hole, let it dry, then cut it open. Button up the front and your dress top is complete.

Measure the bottom of your top to get started. We will now cut widths of fabric for the dress tiers. My fabric was 44″ wide so I did 2 pieces for the top tier, three for the second, and four for the third. If you fabric is 60″ wide I would may just do 1 – 1 and a bit for the first tier, then 2 and then 3…

My tiers are each 12″, for about a 34″ length skirt {after seams} I did a rolled hem for my bottom, but if you are folding under a hem, I would add 1″ to the bottom tier.

Fold the fabric in half, then half again to make cutting the widths of fabric easy.

Here is all my fabric cut for the tiers. Because I had two widths for the first tier I had side seams, which means easy pocket. If you don’t have side seams you can cut your fabric so you do. I just winged the pockets seen here, but if you need a pocket template you can get one here. {use the largest size} Cut four pocket pieces.

I sewed my pockets on the bottom of the first tier. I left 1.5″ from the bottom of the tier to make it easy to sew on the next layer, but you can see the pockets are low on the sides. With right sides together, sew a pocket piece to the two sides of the front panel and the two sides of the back panel. Make sure they are all in the same place on the fabric so they line up. Sew and open up.

Top-stitch along the edge of the pocket. Place the front panel on top of the back panel, lining up the pockets. Sew down from the top, around the pocket, and the 1.5″ inches at the bottom. I used a zig-zag on my sewing machine since all the turns are tough on the serger.

Now sew two gathering stitches on the top of this tier. Need help with gathering? Check out my gathering tutorial here.

Gather the top of the tier to match the bottom of the bodice. Keep the sides with the pocket at the bodice side seams. With right sides together flip the skirt up, and clip the layers together. Keep the 1″ overlap of the bodice secure then you sew. Sew with the gathers up towards you to keep them laying straight.

First tier in place! Sew the panels of the second tier together to from a circle. Gather the top of the second tier to match the width of the bottom of the first tier. Sew.

Repeat process with the the their tier if desired. Hem with a 3/4″ folded under hem or rolled hem.

You did it! Now you have your new favorite summer dress. I can’t wait to sew a couple more! It’s so comfy!!

The post button front sundress free pdf sewing pattern appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

I saw this shirt in a social media add for some super questionable company… and I knew I could make something similar. I loved the message and the combination of applique and embroidery, so here is my new favorite shirt and the tutorial of how I made it.

Made for More Applique t-shirt

I’m very pleased with how this shirt turned out. I bought the shirt and just grabbed some fabric from my stash for the words. I maybe wish there was a bit more contrast, but overall I love the look and design. All supplies will be listed below in the tutorial.

I’m still deciding if I want to shorten the shirt just a bit, although it worked great with these leggings I was wearing when I took the photos. If you are new to machine embroidery you should check out my beginner embroidery class.

More amazing Applique projects to try

• Double layer applique
• Multi-fabric applique
• Reverse applique
• Applique sign without a embroidery machine
• Sports Mom shirt applique

Applique and Embroidery shirt tutorial

Supplies I used:

• Tshirt {this one is from Hobby Lobby}
• Fabric scrap from stash
• Heat and Bond {or any applique backing}
• Embroidery clip scissors
• Embroidery machine with 9 x 9 hoop
• Two font designs I purchased
  • Narrow Sports Applique lettering
  • Handwriting machine embroidery designs
• Embroiery thread

Start by cutting a rectangle of your fabric slightly larger than your design will be. Fuse a piece of heat and bond to the back.

Remove the paper backing and set aside. I used two layers of medium tear-away in my hoop because of the stretch of the t-shirt fabric.

Add some placement marks on your shirt. I like to mark the center and either the bottom or top line of the design. Here I marked the top. Hoop the front of the shirt only, centering the hoop with the center placement marker.

Both fonts I used were purchased online, so I used a usb to transfer the letters I needed to my machine. I put two sizes of the MADE on my usb to see which one I wanted to use. Here is the design laid out.

On my machine I have the no-sew feature, so I used that to get rid of the for more letters. If you don’t have this, I would just create the MADE first and stitch it, then add the second part of the design.

For the applique stitch out the placement lines for all letters. Then add the rectangle of fabric.

Stitch the second placement/tack down layer for each letter, then remove the hoop from the machine. Use curved embroidery scissors {linked above} to carefully trim around each letter.

Then fuse the fabric to the shirt with an iron. {remember the heat and bond from the beginning? This is the second fuse of that material} Stitch out the final step for each letter, adding the satin stitch.

When the applique finished, I went back and un-did the no-sew of the second layer of letters. I arranges my for more letters so they overlapped the applique a bit, but you can adjust as you want. Stitch this out.

I ended up added the Bible reference for this phrase in the upper right hand, but you could add below or leave off. I love how this turned out and can’t wait to use this concept for other shirts and designs.

The post Applique and Embroidery Shirt tutorial appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

I’ve actually been wanting to make a dress like this for me. I bought this fabric thinking I would sew myself a tank dress… however, drafting a womens pattern is more involved and I didn’t even buy enough fabric, so this week you get a gorgeous tank dress for girls! The size range is great… 12M-14Y, although if your girl has a very developed chest, this dress may not fit well as the top is not shaped. More on that below… But… how cute is this tiered tank dress?? And today I’m sharing the free sewing pattern.

Gorgeous tiered tank dress free pattern

Rose and I are loving this new dress! As I mentioned above I have a plan to sew myself a tank dress, but I didn’t buy enough fabric and it takes longer to draft a womens woven tank due to shaping. {haha} Anyway, I sewed this up and Rose tried it on it’s just perfect.

This gorgeous tank dress is sewn from a light double gauze and even though it’s almost three yards of fabric {lots of gathers in the skirt}, but it’s still light and flowey.

The buttons on the front are functional, but this dress did go on and off without unbuttoning. Rose is wearing the size 10/12 for the tank {her chest is a 28″, so the perfect fit for this size}. The double gauze has a bit of give, due to the bumps in the gauze, but even a regular woven fabric would fit great for her in this size.

I also think this tank dress would be perfect over a fitted tee if you need to layer for spring. The skirt is so full and beautiful as well.

Other Summer dressed to sew

• Circle Dress Free pattern
• Babydoll dress free pattern
• T-shirt dress with tiered skirt
• Upcycle mens shirt to tank dress
• Knit fabric tank dress
• Tshirt dress with ruffles hack
• Onesie dress sewing hack
• Free dress pattern
• Tank pattern for woven fabric

Tiered tank dress free pdf pattern and supplies

Let’s jump into the tutorial. Here is what you will need to sew this tank dress.

• 2-4 yards of fabric. {the size 10 here used almost 3 yards} The size 14 probably needs about the same as the skirt would be the same fullness, the smaller sizes can use less fabric.
  • I used a fun double gauze fabric that is light and airy. Faux linen or other light woven fabrics would work well.
• 3-4 Buttons. Find a style and color that works for you.
• Download and print the 4 page pdf pattern using the buttons below.
  • The skirt tiered do not have printable pieces. The tutorial here and the pdf pattern have written instructions only.
• All seam allowances are 3/8″ or 1 cm.

Here’s what the four page pattern pieces will look like when assembled. You can either trace the size you want to use or cut out the pieces. Since this is only 4 pages I cut them out. Usually I trace and keep the original pattern. The back you will cut on a fold and the front you do not. You will need two backs and four fronts to sew this tank dress.

I would suggest sewing up the tank bodice, then when that is finished, cut and sew the skirt. There are suggestions for the skirt on the pdf pattern and I will also give a ton of details for cutting and sewing the skirt below in the tutorial.

Tank dress sewing tutorial

Time to get sewing! Now that you have prepped to sew {at least for the tank top} let’s dive in. Reminder, all seam allowances are 3/8″ or 1 cm. I sewed the whole thing with my serger. You can use a serger or a sewing machine straight stitch.

You should have two back pieces and four front pieces. Line up shoulder seams of one back and two fronts. Sew the shoulder seams on one set. Repeat this with the other set of tank pieces.

With right side up, lay the tank out. Place the other set on top with right sides together. Pin or clip the front opening and around the neckline and also the shoulder edges. Sew with your serger or sewing machine.

Now you should have these seams below sewn. If you used a sewing machine you will need to clip the curves on the seam allowance before turning. Bring each front piece through the shoulder to turn right side out.

Your tank bodice is now right side out. At this point I would suggest pressing and even possibly top-stitching if desired. I didn’t do either step with this double gauze, puffy fabric. If you iron it, the fabric gets flat and weird.

Next we will sew the side seams. On one side of the tank, move the open side seams close together, then will right sides of the fabric touching, match the center under arm seam. Pin or clip along the open side seam. Do this for both sides of the tank.

Sew the side seams, then fold the fabric back over to hide the seam inside the layers.

Now you have a tank bodice that is coming together. Overlap 1″ on the front pieces, pin or clip in place to mark overlap.

Arrange 3/4 buttons to your liking. Start at the very top of the neck and work down to raw edge. Do not place a button too close to the bottom or you will not be able to sew the skirt. After placing the buttons, I like to make the bottom of the button for hole placement.

Sew the buttonholes on your sewing machine. {tutorial linked if needed} Cut open the holes and then mark through the center for button placement.

Sew on the buttons.

I’m loving how this is all coming together! Now measure the bottom of your bodice, the skirt will be built off this measurement. Mark this circumference {mine was 28}, then decide how long you want the skirt to be. I wanted it around 30″ long.

You can measure your child from the shoulder top down to see how long you want the completed dress to be, or lay this tank over a dress that you like the length.

After you have your dress length {mine was 30}, divide that by three {or two if you only want two tiers} So I needed 3 tiers of 10 inches. You also want to add 1″ to each tier for seam allowance. This is how you decide the height of each tier.

Now for the width. Ideally you want each tier to be around 1.5x the width of the one before. So the first tier, my tank bottom is 28″, so my skirt tier should be around 42″, My fabric was 48″ wide, so I just went with 1 width of fabric. I kept my skirt simple, first tier 1 width of fabric, second tier 2 widths and third tier 3 widths of fabric.

If my fabric was wider than 48″ I would have not used the full width for the first tier. This is again for the size 10/12. For smaller sizes you will not want to use this much for your first tier. I cut all the strips.

For the first tier, sew the width of fabric in a circle, then gather that circle to match the size of the the bottom of the tank. Need help with gathering? See this gathering tutorial post. I used a two thread gather for this skirt, all tiers.

Evenly space the gathers. Pin or clip the gathers to the bottom of the tank top. Sew with your serger or sewing machine. Remove any gathering stitches you can still see.

For the second tier take the two pieces of fabric and sew the short ends into a circle. Gather the top of the tier.

Evenly space the gathers, then sew it to the bottom of the first tier. Remove any visible gathering stitches as before.

I like to hem the third tier before its on the skirt to make it easier to sew. I sewed the three pieces of the bottom tier into a circle, then sergered the bottom. Fold over a 1″ hem and sew with a straight stitch.

After hemming I gathered the top of the 3rd tier to match the bottom of the second. Sew it on and your tank dress is finished.

I was so thrilled to see this finished! It was a bit of work with all the gathering stitches and spreading out the gathers, but totally worth it in the end!! I would highly recommend the double gauze for this project, just so cute!

Here are a couple of outtakes from our photo shoot. {haha}

The post Tiered Tank Dress Free Pattern size 12m-14Y appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

**originally published 4/2021, updated and republished 4/2026**

I saw an ad on facebook for a circle dress made with rainbow fabric. I dreamed about making one like it for months and I can finally show my version. This circle dress turned out just like the picture and better that I imagined. PLUS… the rainbow knit is adorable!

Summer circle dress with tie shoulders

Not only did this dress turn out just as I wanted, we found the perfect location for photos on our spring break trip. These umbrellas matched the dress perfectly.

I’m also including several photos of my new version of this… sewn from a vintage sheet of woven fabric. You can see them side by side here. Also… looking for more vintage sheet projects? Check out my post here Vintage Sheet Sewing.

This dress is a full circle so it’s just the perfect twirly dress. Rose twirled so much the dress went high, so it’s a great dress to wear shorties under. Get the free shorties pattern here.

The tutorial below includes dimensions for a dress, shirt and doll version! Rose had so much fun matching here doll. Now that’s she’s older she’s holding flowers instead of a doll.

I had just enough fabric from the two yards for the long dress and the doll dress. I’m sure this dress is going to get a ton of wear this summer as we move into warmer months.

I added a little decorative stitch on this newest version, although I do need to add a tag so Rose can tell the front from the back.

Other Free dress tutorials and patterns

• Circle Sleeve dress tutorial
• Tank Christmas dress
• T-Shirt dress sewing pattern
• Flounce sleeve dress
• Gathered Shoulder dress
• Schools out dress free pattern
• Christmas dresses free patterns
• Sweet Rose Dress free pattern

How to cut a circle dress

I’m going to give you a written tutorial here, but there is a full video walk through also in this post. You may have to disable your ad blocker to see the video if you are having trouble.

Circle dress supplies:

• 2 yards of fabric. This tutorial should work with knit or woven fabric.
  • I used this rainbow bullet knit here from Sincerly Rylee. I want to try a light woven next.
• 1/2″ Double Fold Bias tape. Buy it here. 1/4″ for doll version.
• Measuring tape.
• Sharp Scissors
• fabric marker

Again, I’m going to walk you trough cutting and sewing a circle dress here, but I would highly recommend watching the video to see this in action.

Below is a scrap from the full two yards, but it show how to do the double fold. Fold the fabric in half, then in half again, just like you are making a circle skirt. The corner with only folds {no raw edges} is the center.

This chart is your guide for cutting all the options and I’ll walk you through so you know what these number mean.

For the Vintage Sheet version I used the largest dimensions here, but of course used the full length of the sheet {my circle was 36″ out from the center}

Start by cutting the main circle. This photo shows the doll length, the video shows the dress. From that double fold corner, measure and mark the length. Here I marked 9″ all around the quarter circle. Then cut with your sharp scissors. You are not going to hem the knit version, so make your cuts clean. If you are using woven fabric you will have to do a narrow hem to finish.

Now cut the neck. For the dress mark 2″ from the corner. Place several dots, then join them to create a quarter circle. On the side of the neck mark that has the TWO FOLDS {NOT the single fold showing} mark the arm opening. For the dress go down 3″ from the edge of the neck marking, then mark 1/2″ in the middle. Create a curved semi-circle from these markings. Cut these two circles then open up. The neck should be in the middle. Cut the front neckline 1/2″ deeper. The tiny doll neck is below.

Note: when using a woven {non-stretch} fabric, you may need to lower the arm openings. I removed the bias tape and cut the arm scoops 1″ lower as it was too tight. When it’s too tight under the arms, you can’t pull up the neckline if you need. Cutting it a bit lower helped! Again, this is really only an issue with woven fabric.

How to sew a circle dress

Now it’s time for a bit of sewing… Its actually very easy! This is a simple sewing tutorial with just a couple of straight stitched. Grab your double fold 1/2″ bias tape {1/4″ for the doll version} I didn’t have 1/2″ so I sewed two strips of 1/4″ together to create wider bias tape.

Turn the dress so the arm openings are up. Pin or click the bias tape along both arm openings. The fabric should be fully sandwiched between the bias tape. You do not need any overhang on the edges. Trim the edges. Sew along the edge to secure to the fabric. Use a straight stitch or zig zag to sew. {the video shows this} Repeat with the other arm.

The method for the neck is almost the same, but leave a 10″ strap for the dress and shirt versions. For the doll you just need a couple inches. Clip and sew. When you sew, also sew down the strap to sew the bias tape to itself. Tie knots on the ends of the straps to control any fraying.

You can now tie knots or bows for the shoulder. Enjoy your fun doll or girl dresses.

I put a tag on the back of the dress and I love the neckline. Not too long but perfect for summer. Enjoy! Make sure to share photos in our Facebook group!

The post How to Sew A Circle Dress appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

It’s been very very unseasonably warm here. We changed out the winter duvet inserts to our summer ones and it was also time for summer style Pjs! Rose needed new summer pajamas for sure, and with how warm it is, I decided to sew some up this week.

Summer pajamas from free sewing patterns

This easy top and shorts was a quick sew, but they turned out just how we wanted and have been worn every night since making them.

We picked out the rib knit together at the store, and Rose also chose the sublimation print to add. I choose the two free pdf patterns I used here.

I finished the hems with a lettuce style hem using my serger and I LOVE the look. The arm edges didn’t stretch and ruffle quite as well due to the direction of stretch on the fabric. It’s still cute, but the lettuce hem works best going the direction of greatest stretch.

I’ll share how easy it is to put these patterns together below, and also the links to the two free patterns I used.

Other free pajama patterns to try

• Simple Pj set
• Vintage Sheet Pajamas
• Womens PJ/Lounge shorts
• Womens longer vintage sheet pjs
• 1 hour pj tutorial
• DIY striped fabric and robot Pjs

how to sew pjs with free pdf patterns

Ok, first, here are the links to the patterns used. I’m also sharing the quick sew tutorials below, but if you need more sewing help, please refer to the original tutorials for these patterns. I bought 1.5 yard of the rub knit to make these pjs in size 10/12 and I have fabric left. I think I just just a bit over a yard.

Summer shorts full original sewing tutorial

Crop top original sewing tutorial

Below you can see the pieces cut out. TWO shorts pieces, FRONT and BACK crop top {added 2 inches length}, Neck back for top. Not pictured – 1 inch elastic to finish the shorts.

Let’s start by sewing up the top. Use a serger for all seams OR a zig-zag on your sewing machine. Sew the shirt front and back together at one shoulder.

Add the neckband to the open neckline. {need help with your neckband? Neckband tutorial here}

With right sides together, sew the other shoulder seam. Sew the side seams of the shirt from arm edge to bottom edge.

Now sew the shirt to the side. {if using regular hems, you can fold over edges and hem now} Lettuce hem details below.

Place the two shorts pieces right sides together, sew the front and back curved crotch seams.

Open up the shorts and sew the inseam, matching the front and back seams.

Measure the elastic to fit the waist you are sewing for. Sew the elastic into a circle, then stretch evenly along the top of the pants. Pin or clip in place.

Sew elastic to top edge of shorts, stretching as you sew. Use a serger or zig-zag stitch to sew to the top of the shorts.

Fold the fabric and elastic over. I like to sew from the right side, stretch and sew the elastic to finish the top. Need help with this step? See my Elastic Waistband tutorial.

I used a zig-zag to secure the folded over fabric and elastic. Now its time to finish the bottom of the shorts and the bottom and sleeves of the top. I used a lettuce style hem on my serger to complete the look. You can also create this look on your sewing machine. Need help with this? Here is my Lettuce Hem tutorial.

Now you can sleep well in your new summer pjs all summer long!

The post How to sew Summer Pjs – two free pdf patterns appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

Fabric shopping has shifted drastically over the past few years. Especially with the closing of Joann Fabric stores. Do you like to order fabric online for sewing? I do! 95% of my fabric comes from online fabric stores and today I’m sharing a few of my favorite spring fabrics AND where to buy them. Updated links and fabrics 3/2026

I hope you will find some new fabric and fabric stores here in this post. I’m in full swing of spring summer sewing and have been stocking up on spring fabric for over a month already. Who is ready for spring fabric shopping!!

My Favorites: Spring Fabric for sewing clothing

Ok! First let’s talk about the type of fabric I sew with in the spring and summer. I use a lot of swim fabric, board shorts fabric, double brushed poly, cotton lycra, and other light fabrics that breathe well.

This will not be an exhaustive list of fabrics and projects to sew with spring fabrics. All fabric links are at the bottom of this post!!

Swim Fabric –

First up swim! I sew all my kids swim and love to shop adorable swim fabric. The best part of sewing my own swim is that I can achieve a custom fit for my hard to fit daughter and make swim shorts that my boys love.

The swim fabric from the shops I’ve shared below does not fade and is high quality! My kids do swim team and the fabric lasts all summer with daily swims {and we never rinse off the chemicals} Check out my Girls Classic Swim Suit pattern HERE. And the Boys Board shorts pattern HERE.

• Swim Fabric on Raspberry Creek Fabrics
• Swim Fabric on Knit Fabric {dot} com

Double Brushed Poly –

This is one of my favorite fabrics year round. This fabric makes amazing leggings, shirts and dresses. I recently used it for the short sleeve version of the twirly dress plus I always sew summer shortie leggings. Super soft and amazing to touch this fabric can be a bit warm if you live in a very hot climate, but for most of the world this can work all year round. You can get great brushed poly on FWD.com, Raspberry Creek Fabrics, Sincerely Rylee and Knit Fabric

• Summer Shortie Leggings
• Short Sleeve Twirly Dress
• Boys T-shirt
• Girls Fitted Tee
• Swing Tee

You can also sew shirts from classic t-shirt fabric. This is a lot less stretchy {usually only two way or slight four way} but is more of a classic tee fabric. This t-shirt fabric is called tri-blend on some sites… its so lovely for shirt, tanks and dresses

Rib Knit-

My new spring summer fabric of choice! Adore rib knit!! I’ll be sharing another post with it soon, but for now you can see the matching dresses I made from it here. Use it for shirts, skirts and dresses for a fun a modern look.

Cotton Fabric –

If you are looking for fun cotton fabrics from spring I’ve for you covered there as well. Things I like to sew with cotton.

• Tiered Skirt Pattern and tutorial
• Draw string Makeup Bag
• Gathered Skirt

Rayon Challis

This is a beautiful and lightweight woven fabric. Perfect for dresses and skirts.

• Skirt with pockets
• Ruffled Sleeve Dress free pattern kids
• Flowing spring dress – for women
• Ruffled Sleeve dress for women

Athletic Knit

You need athletic clothes all year round!! Sew leggings and tops with this fun fabric.

Stretch Lace –

Use as overlays, for skirts or tops, lace can add a fun details to your spring and summer clothes. Here are a few ways I’ve used streth lace

• Lace shirt overlay
• Double Skirt on dress
• Tulle and cotton skirt {use lace instead of the tulle}
• Wrap Dress
• Racerback tank with lace panel

Where to buy my favorite spring fabric

My favorites: Spring Fabrics

I adore sewing for spring and this list of must have fabrics is super helpful. I have personally ordered from all of these shops and can say that

Swim Fabric

Photo Credit: www.peekaboopatternshop.com

Excellent quality swim fabric from Peek A Boo Fabric shop

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Special seasonal fabric

Photo Credit: raspberrycreekfabrics.com

Raspberry Creek Fabric is unique in the fact that they release seasonal lines of fabric several times a year. Their club releases on several base fabrics.

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Swim and Performance

Photo Credit: raspberrycreekfabrics.com

I love the RCF swim lines. The swim fabric and board short fabric is fade proof and my kids wear them for seasons without wearing out.

Read More

Knit Apparel Fabrics

Photo Credit: raspberrycreekfabrics.com

I love the double brushed poly from RCF. I use for leggings, dresses, shirts and more!

Read More

Double Brushed Poly

Photo Credit: www.peekaboopatternshop.com

Double Brushed Poly from Peek a Boo Fabric, perfect for leggings, shirts, dresses and mor

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stretch lace

Photo Credit: raspberrycreekfabrics.com

This stretch lace is AMAZING. Beautiful for shirts and dresses!

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Board Shorts

Photo Credit: www.peekaboopatternshop.com

Board short fabric that does not fade from Peek a Boo

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Specialty Fabric

Photo Credit: www.thestyledmagnolia.com

The Styled Magnolia has beautiful fabric. I was able to order several yards from them a few months ago. Most of their fabric runs on pre-orders... so be prepared to wait.

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Rib knit

Photo Credit: raspberrycreekfabrics.com

Read More

Rib Knit

Photo Credit: sincerelyrylee.com

I order all the time from Sincerly Rylee as her inventory changes weekly. Great sales and the most beautiful modern fabrics. This rib knit is divine.

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Swiss dot chiffon woven

Photo Credit: sincerelyrylee.com

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Rayon Challis

Photo Credit: raspberrycreekfabrics.com

Read More

BUNDLES

Photo Credit: sincerelyrylee.com

Sincerely Rylee bundles are a great way to try new fabrics and expand your collection. I often go for the mystery bundles because the prices are unbeatable. great way to get a deal.

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Athletic fabric

Photo Credit: greenstylecreations.com

Read More

T-Shirt Knit

Photo Credit: knitfabric.com

Read More

Tri-blend: T-shirt knit

Photo Credit: raspberrycreekfabrics.com

Read More

The post My favorites: Spring Fabrics for sewing appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

I love making tote bags. I’ve sewn many many over the years and often try to find a slightly new and different way to sew a tote each time. Today my tote bag is made of sweatshirt fleece {soft and cozy!} and it has a fun little border on the top for a pop of color.

Sweatshirt fleece tote bag

I had these scraps of sweatshirt fleece in my stash and wanted to try making a tote, and adding sublimation to to the grey fleece. I wasn’t sure how the sublimation would stand out on the grey, but it worked perfectly and I will be making a grey sweatshirt with sublimation soon! The colors are still so vibrant.

I also added a small border on the top of the tote for another pop of color. The finished tote is fabulous and I’m very pleased with the result. Below you will find the tutorial to sew this tote yourself.

Other fun tote tutorials to try

Here are several other tote bags I’ve sewn over the years and the tutorial that goes with them. Enjoy!

• Leaf embroidery box side tote
• Woven webbing tote
• Simple Summer tote
• Canvas and cork tutorial
• Zip-side tote
• Pool towel/blanket tote

How to sew a sweatshirt tote bag tutorial

Ok! Let’s jump into making this bag. Of course you can use this type of fabric with another method of tote bag making, but I’m going to show you how I made this one. Here is what you will need:

• Sweatshirt fleece
• Strapping
• Sublimation printer {optional}

Cut two rectangles. You can adjust the size as needed, but I cut mine:

• 12.5″ x 26
• 12.5″ x 29 {this is the lining piece}
• Strapping 27″ – cut 2

You will cut long rectangles for the main and lining piece. The fold of this rectangle becomes the bottom of the bag. The pieces should be the same width {narrow side} and different lengths.

Find the center of the outer piece and mark. If you are adding sublimation to the front {or vinyl or any other decoration}, print that design now.

Place the front of the bag on a pressing pad or ironing board. Center the printed sublimation on this front section.

I pressed for 40 seconds at 365 degrees, but check the directions with your printer. I like to peel back just a corner to check the transfer before completely lifting. If it seems the ink has not transferred all the way, you can press again.

Fold this piece in half with right sides together and pin or clip the sides. Sew both sides with a 3/8″ seam allowance.

Do the same with the lining piece, but leave a 4″ opening on one side. See where my fingers are pointing below. This will be the hole where you turn the bag right side out. Sew the side seams of the lining.

Turn the outer piece right side out and slide it inside the lining piece.

Take your pieces of strapping and place the straps about 1-2″ from the side seams. Pin or clip the straps in place, then tuck the straps between the two layers of sweatshirt fleece. Repeat with the other side of the bag.

Add more clips to secure the layers of fleece together and hold the straps in place where they are. Sew with about a 1/2″ seam allowance around the top of the bag. I backstitched over the placed where the straps were to reinforce. Sew all the way around.

Pull the bag out through the hole int he lining. Turn the seam allowance in and pin or clip. Sew close to the edge and close the hole.

Push the lining inside the bag, but leave the fold about 1″ above the outside fabric. This will add the color of the lining fabric at the top of the bag and add a nice top. Pin this 1″ fold, making sure the seams allowance is folding down towards the bag. Sew a close top stitch on either side of the seam to finish the bag. Now you can fill, use and enjoy!!

The post Tote Bag with Sweatshirt fleece tutorial appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

Several years ago I made some cork cuffs very similar to these. {see the link below} This time around we just made best friend cuffs for my daughter and her friends and they turned out so so cute! I also found this fun, colorful cork strapping, and that added a fun element to this project.

Best friends cork bracelet

My daughter and her friends are all into best friends gear, bracelets, necklaces, shirts… These cork cuffs are super quick to make and fun to wear. The cork is soft and comfy on your wrist.

You can make all the bracelets the same or change up the font or thread colors. I decided to go with the same font, but mix up the colors.

Other fun cork projects to try

Here are few other fun tutorials with cork that you should try. Cork is versatile and easy to work with, be inspired for some fun cork projects here.

• Cork Earrings
• Embroidered cork bracelets
• Cork School supplies tote
• Canvas tote with cork straps

Cork Bracelet embroidery tutorial

Ok! If you are familiar with embroidery, you probably already know exactly how to make these cute bracelets, but if you haven’t done much with embroidery, this is a great starter project as well.

Here’s what you need to create this fun cork and embroidery project:

• Cork Strapping {any color}
• Embroidery machine
• Adhesive stabilizer
• Kam Snaps and clamp to set them

Match the bobbin color to the cork as closely as you can. You can choose any color for the top thread.

Hoop the adhesive stabilizer and then peel off the paper backing. Cut the cork straps to size as well. I cut mine about 7.25″ long {for my daughter and her friends}.

Use the adhesive stabilizer to stick the strapping in the hoop. I ended up rotating my stabilizer to better hoop the cork.

Use clips if needed to hold the straps in place. Create the text with built in font from your embroidery machine {or transfer in from another source}

Start with a single bracelet and align the needle with the center of a cork cuff. Embroider one cuff at a time.

Align the needle center for each strap, then embroider the text.

When you finish, remove the hoop from the machine.

Pull the cork off the stabilizer.

I used a pin to pick out the extra stabilizer, but you can also use water to help it dissolve. Clip any longer threads.

Round the corners of both ends with a scissors, then set a snap on either end. Make sure that you put in the snaps with one up and one down so it will go on properly. Ask me how I know {haha}

Now you have super cute cork cuff best friend bracelets to wear and give to your besties! {Or in this case, my daughter can give to her besties.

The post Best Friend Cork Bracelets tutorial appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

Last year I bought this super cute t-shirt with a flower bouquet embroidered on the left side. Of course as soon as I bought it I thought I could make it myself. At the time I didn’t have a bouquet design, but recently I opened up the Artpsira app and saw the PERFECT flower bouquet design. It was finally the time to recreate this most beautiful shirt.

Flower Bouquet Embroidered Shirt

Here is my inspiration shirt. The grey shirt is the one I bought last year, and the black one on the left is the one I’m going to use to recreate this look. I do love this shirt and now I’m excited to have two shirts with beautiful embroidery.

This shirt is going to be perfect for spring. I’m excited to make a few more with different color shirts and thread colors for the bouquet. There are also a couple different bouquet designs I want to try on the Artspira App.

Other Embroidery tutorials to try

Here are some other embroidery projects to try.

• Puffy foam Embroidery
• Shirt Pocket embroidery
• Double layer glitter embroidery
• Embroidery on cardstock
• Couching and Embroidery for clothing
• Fix a hole with embroidery

How to make an embroidered shirt with flower bouquet

Ok! Here’s what you need to create this fun flower bouquet shirt.

• Tshirt – any will do… or here’s my free tshirt pattern for women
• Artspira app or other flower bouquet design. Search flower bouquet in the app, or here another design that might work. Flower Bouquet design here.
• Embroidery stabilizer – use two layers.
• Fusible embroidery backing

Start by marking the center of your left upper pocket area, then a top and bottom marker. Hoop this area. Make sure to use two layers of stabilizer under the knit fabric to keep everything in place.

Transfer the design to your machine and place the hoop on the machine. Position the design over your markings, then remove the pins.

Stitch out the design.

When you finish stitching out the design, remove it from the machine and clip all the threads. On the back side, cut or tear away the stabilizer layers. You can add a layer of fusible embroidery backing if the stabilizer is scratchy.

I love how simple and quick this project was the sew. It looks so cute too!

The post Embroidered Shirt tutorial – Flower Bouquet appeared first on Life Sew Savory.