Embroidered Bag Tag

We’ve marked our suitcases with ribbon in the past, but no more! Now we have the cutest bag tags. You can use just as a marker, or as an actual address tag, by adding your address to the back with permanent marker.

Embroider all your tags the same or make a bunch of cute ones. I found this travel embroidery pack and used a few to make theses tags. There are more cute designs so I will have to keep sewing! I don’t think anyone else will have tags like this on their baggage.

Other Travel Themed Tutorials

• Toothbrush Roll tutorial
• Water bottle/Phone Carrier
• List of patterns and tutorials for travel
• Diagonal Zipper pouch for your devices
• Padded Sunglasses case
• Passport Holder

Bag Tag with embroidery tutorial

Supplies for making embroidered bag tags

• Embroidery Machine
• Tear away stabilizer
• Embroidery thread
• Fun travel themed embroidery designs
• Poly patch twill

Ok! Here’s my set up to making these embroidered bag tags. I have this poly twill for making patches of all kinds, but it also worked great for these bag tags.

Start by hooping two layers of tear aways stabilizer in your hoop. You can make this project in a small hoop one at a time, or in a larger hoop and sew a few in a single hoop. I added all my travel files to a usb stick to transfer to my embroidery machine.

Here is how I created the embroidered bag tag. Start by adding a straight stich rectangle. Most machines have these basic shapes built in. Adjust the rectangle to be the size you want your tag.

Add the travel design {or any design you want to add} Place it to one side of the rectangle.

Now add a satin stitch rectangle and place it on top of the straight stitch one. When looking at the layers of the embroidery, this satin stitch outline needs to be after the other embroidery.

Add a tiny circle to the other side of the rectangle {this will be cut out to add a ribbon} Check the placement of the design in the hoop, then add your twill fabric.

Stitch the straight stitch outline, then trim twill {if you didn’t already} This other piece will be the back of the tag.

Stitch out the suitcase. You can see here how I’ve arranged my layers.

I forgot to photograph the backing stop on the suitcase tag, so I will now show you on the tree tag. After stitch out the outline and design, remove hoop from machine.

Flip hoop over and place the backing right side out over the back of the design. Use the outline for placement.

Turn the hoop back over and place two pins to hold the back in place. Put the hoop back on the machine and add the final two layers. The satin outline and the small circle. If you want the satin outline to blend in, match your bobbin thread with the twill color.

If you want to make several of these, you can just delete out the travel design and keep the other layers all in place. Replace the travel design and then stitch it out again.

When you have all your bag tags finished, remove the stabilizer from the hoop and then tear out the patches/tags from the stabilizer.

Cut around the satin stitch outline with sharp scissors.

Now you have the finished front and back.

Use sharp snipping scissors to cut out the tiny circle and thread a piece of ribbon or chord through the hole.

Now you have adorable luggage tags to add to your bag or backpack.

The post Embroidered Bag Tag for travel tutorial appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

I was looking through my previous posts on this topic and I was noticing that I had several posts on this topic, but were all basically similar. So I’ve redirected all former Reusable Fabric Snack Bag posts to this one, and now this will be the go-to post for my Fabric Snack Bag tutorial.

Reusable Fabric Snack Bags

I’ve been making bags like this since my boys were little. Originally I used some cotton on the outside, and clear vinyl on the inside, but since then I’ve refined my fabric choices and the size and shape of my reusable snack bags.

Today I’m going to be sharing my favorite fabrics as well as the two styles I think work the best. I use both KAM snaps and Velcro as closure, but you can use just one of these if that works better for you.

I like to make different sizes of snack baggies. Small enough for just a few carrots, and large enough for a sandwich. My favorite fabrics are rip-stop and PUL fabric. Links below.

Other lunch tutorials

• Lunch Box name tags
• Insulated Lunch bag tutorial
• Personalized Snack boxes
• My favorite lunch boxes

Reusable snack bag tutorials

Fabric and supplies to make reusable snack bags:

• Rip Stop Nylon fabric {slippery fabric with the little squares… like kite fabric}
  • I recently purchased on Amazon
• PUL {Polyurethane Laminate} This is a water proof fabric often used for cloth diapers
  • I have bought here on Amazon or here on Etsy
• KAM Snaps
• Velcro

The Ripstop fabric makes the perfect lining for your snack bags, if I’m also using the PUL fabric I will put that on the outside as a leak proof layer {so apple juice doesn’t leak}. You can also use two layers of Ripstop. I will show both options.

My smaller bag is 5 x 10″, cut two pieces of fabric {I used on ripstop and one PUL}. Cut velcro just a bit shorter than the width of one short end. {approx 4″}

The larger sandwich size is 7 x 13/14″ – cut a rectangle, then round two corners on one short end.

For the smaller pouch I start with sewing the two rectangles together, right sides facing. Leave one short end open for turning. Sew with a 1/4″ seam allowance.

After sewing, clip the sewn corners, then turn right side out. You may need to use a blunt point to poke out the corners. Fold in the top seam allowance and sew shut.

On the lining side of the snack bag, place the two strips of velcro and sew around the edges.

Fold the ends together and pin or clip the side. Sew down the two sides, stitch as close as you can to the edge, still catching all four layers. Around 1/8″. Now you have a cute and secure snack bag.

For my larger sandwich bag made with two layers of Ripstop, there isn’t really a wrong or right side of the fabric. But sew bother layers together and leave a 2″ opening on one long side to turn.

Clip the bottom corners and turn right side out. You may need to use a blunt point to poke out the corners. Fold in the seam allowance on the turning hole.

Fold the bottom up to match the straight sides. Pin or clip to hold in place.

Carefully transfer your pins of clip from the turning opening to the side, keeping the seam allowance turned in. This way you can sew only once and close the hole and sew the sides.

Add snaps or velcro for closure. I added two snaps just off the center. Use a fabric pen to rub on the inside of the snap, then when you fold it over it will mark where the other side should be placed.

Place the snaps on the front of the pouch.

These two snaps will match with the flap snaps.

Now you have a finished sandwich size bag. You can also make this smaller for snacks.

Here are some examples of the sizes and shapes I have sewn. The animal pouch on the left is a larger snack bag, with a seam down the middle to hold two different snacks.

The post Reusable Fabric Snack Bags appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

We live in very dry Colorado and my lips are very very dry! There are a few months of the year where I think they are ok, but most of the year I have multiple chapsticks in all the places to keep my lips moisturized. These cute chapstick holder keychain DIY is a fun and easy sewing proejct.

DIY Chapstick holder pattern-

So cute right? This chapstick holder template is perfect for keeping that moisturizing goodness near you at all times. Add one to your bag, your keys, your car, anywhere! I’m still using these that I sewed up last year, super handy.

I’ve included a couple of different ways to make these keychain chapstick holders, but either way it is a simple sewing project and one that you can make quickly. These also make adorable gifts, so when you start sewing, make several.

Other cute accessories to sew:

• sunglasses holder
• drawstring bag
• Mug Cozy

Chapstick holder template free

Ok! First let’s talk supplies. Here is what you will need:

• Fabric scraps
• Keychain rings
• Interfacing OR Iron – on Fabric applique sheet

As I mentioned there are two main ways to create these cute DIY chapstick holders. You can used your electronic cutting machine or just print the template and cut out. I use a ScanNCut for the example, but you can use any brand machine.

Download the free template using this button or the one below.

The file you will download is a zip file. Unzip the file and you will see three file types. The SVG file is for cutting machine, the PDF pattern is for printing and cutting and the layout view is to open and see how to layout and cut the fabric.

How to make a chapstick holder

If you are printing the pattern make sure to print at 100% or actual size so the template is the correct size. Once you have printed the template will show you how many to cut of fabric and from interfacing.

If you are using a cutting machine, open the svg in your software and see the two layers. One is the logo and that will not cut, just the template lines will cut. Export to your cutting machine.

To use your cutting machine, prep the fabric by ironing on the applique adhesive. This allows for easier cutting as well as adds a layer of stability. You do not need interfacing if using this method.

Prep your machine by installing a fabric blade {if needed} then layout your fabric. If using interfacing, place fabric and interfacing side by side on the cutting mat so two of each get cut. If using the applique sheet backed fabric, you only need to cut two of the fabric.

Press and fuse interfacing to the back side of the fabric pieces. Then pin or clip right sides together. I’m showing to versions here.

Sew around the outside of the fabric using a narrow 1/4″ seam allowance. Leave the top edge open for turning.

Clip the curved edges and extra fabric on the bottom corners. Then turn the project right side out.

Press to flatten and make the edges crisp. Thread the keychain ring into the curved part of the fabric.

Fold the top over to the back. You can fold the seam allowance inside and straight stitch, or zig-zag to hold down and finish the raw edge.

To finish, fold the bottom edge up to the line you just sewed and the stitch the sides. This will create the little pocket for the chapstick. What a fun and easy project!

The post Chapstick holder template – free appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

I’ve been sharing some swim inspiration the past couple weeks. School is out here and while the weather doesn’t feel overly summery, I’m getting in the summer mood with sewing swimwear for the kids. Today I’m sharing a fun swim set with boardshorts and a coordinating swim top. I’ve used two of my sewing patterns and I’ll give you all the details below.

**Note – pool background generated using AI and Photoshop. My daughter and the swim suit are %100 real {haha} **

Swim Shorts with top sewing pattern

ok! Let’s check out some photos. I sewed up the Sand N Surf Board shorts {these are for both boys and girls} I love pairing these shorts with a swim top for a fun swim set. This would also be so cute with a swim shirt {free pattern and tutorial here.}

The top here is a hacked version of my Girls Classic Swim suit {linked below}. I sewed it with some swim fabric from my stash that went well with the shorts. The Board Shorts are made of board short fabric {a quick dry woven with a slight stretch}. I will be sharing the pattern links and fabric sources below. While I used my patterns for this, I also wanted this to be and inspiration for others to use with patterns they may have.

Other swim patterns and tutorials to try

• How to sew swim elastic perfect every time
• Swimsuit hack – add a side seam
• One piece swim suit into a two piece, sewing hack
• The best swim patterns for kids
• Free swim shirt sewing patterns
• Free toddler swim suit pattern {only one size}

Board shorts for boys and girls with swim top

Here are the details you need to put this same look together. The board shorts were sewn as is.. they have great side seam pockets, a few waistband options, and compression short lining.

The swim top is my girls swim suit pattern, with a hack to make it a two piece. You can find this sewing hack here to replicate.

BOTH PATTERNS HERE ARE ON SALE UNTIL MAY 29th

• Swim fabric from Raspberry Creek and knitFabric {dot} com
• Swim lining fabric
• These are some places I have ordered quality swim fabric {the kind that holds up well to water and sun, but there are probably many other places to get swim fabric.
• Board Short Fabric from Raspberry Creek and Knit Fabric {dot} com

New to sewing swim? Check out this tutorial for sewing swim elastic.

You will be able to find the tutorials and instructions for putting this outfit together in the purchased patterns and linked pattern hacks here. Let me know if you have any questions for this project.

The post Swim Shorts sewing pattern appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

I love my girls classic swimsuit pattern. It’s done well for my daughter over the years. The past couple years she’s been asking for a two piece suit and this pattern works well for that as well. Today I thought I would share how I turn this one piece pattern into a two piece suit. You can use this sewing hack with any pattern, or buy mine below.

Two piece swim suit sewing hack

This suit turned out so so cute, but I’m going to admit right at the top here that I used photoshop to put Rose on the beach. We took these photos in our home and the weather is NOT swim ready {although we are dreaming!} So just pretend with me that we recently took a beach vacation {although we haven’t in a long time} haha!

We blew up our innertube and took photos yesterday to show how cute and practical this suit is. One of the things I’m most proud of with my swim suit pattern is that is has great coverage and fits really well. The perfect suit that will not slip or slide and stays put while you play and swim.

I’ve been sewing this suit for Rose for many years {and variations of it} and it’s perfect every summer. I had this fabric in my stash and also used a lining fabric for a fully lined suit. I’ll give some fabric and lining links below.

To see photos of tiny Rose in this suit or purchase this pattern click the buttons below.

Other swim patterns and tutorials to try

• How to sew swim elastic perfect every time
• Swimsuit hack – add a side seam
• The best swim patterns for kids
• Free swim shirt sewing patterns
• Free toddler swim suit pattern {only one size}

How to turn a one piece suit into a two piece

Ok! let’s dive into the the sewing! This won’t be a full sewing tutorial as whatever pattern you are using for your suit should have the full instructions. This will just be some basic tips that you can use to create a two piece suit from your one piece pattern. The buttons below will give you more information about my girls basic suit which I am using here in this tutorial.

• Swim fabric from Raspberry Creek and knitFabric {dot} com
• Swim lining fabric
• These are some places I have ordered quality swim fabric {the kind that holds up well to water and sun, but there are probably many other places to get swim fabric.

New to sewing swim? Check out this tutorial for sewing swim elastic.

Here you can see my lining fabric, swim fabric and elastic. I’m using 3/4″ elastic for the waist and chest and 1/4″ for leg and arm openings. I do not use any special elastic. I have not had trouble with it breaking down. I find that the fabric wears out before the elastic, so I don’t bother to buy swim elastic.

Here are my trace off pieces from the original swim pattern. I traced a size 12 in length and size 8 in width.

Now it’s time to create the bottoms. Match the bottom hip sides. Use a pair of underwear, other swim suit or measure the rise of your child to determine how high it should go. Add 1″ for elastic then cut.

Here are the bottoms cut and the elastic casing folded over.

Let’s do the same for the top. Line up the underarm, and again measure with a sports bra, swim top or measure down from the shoulders. Cut enough for elastic casing to fold over. I had about 1.5″ of extra middle paper after cutting away the top and bottom.

Now you have your four pieces and are ready to cut. Cut one of each from swim fabric and from lining mesh. Remember to check out the original girls swim post and the shop listing if you want to purchase. Also see my tutorial for sewing swim elastic for tips.

The post One piece to two piece swim sewing hack appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

When you use zippers often, you know the price can add up. Not only that, but I’m always needed different lengths, so buying a large pack of one size isn’t always efficient either. A few years ago I started buying zipper by the yard and now its {almost} all I use for bag making and other zipper projects. Today I’m going to give you some tips for using these kind of zippers.

Zipper tab video quick look

Here is a quick video tutorial of what is in the photos below. I will saw it was very hard to video the machine method, so the photos are better to look at for that. Between the photos and video you should be able to see both methods well. If you can’t see the video check your ad blocker or switch browsers.

How to use Zipper by the yard

I love the cost factor and the flexibility of zipper by the yard. In the photo below you can see I’ve created a single normal zipper and a double zipper {great for bags and sweatshirts} I’ll show you how to use the zipper tabs to create each kind of zipper, plus how to add the tabs to the tape.

Where to buy Zippers and Tabs

These are the zippers and tabs seen here in this post. I buy them from Amazon. There are so many colors and options, here are just two basic colors that I have bought.

• Beige Zipper
• Black Zipper

Let’s first look at the tabs and tape and talk about what they look like.

Zipper tape: has a right side and a wrong side. The right side has the teeth showing. The wrong side will have no teeth or just barely showing teeth.

Zipper tabs: the wrong side is flat and the right side has the bump attached to the pull.

When putting the zipper tabs on the zipper tape I always work with the teeth AND the tape right side up towards me. Let’s talk about thread the tabs onto the zipper tape. NOTE: There is actually a tool that can help with this, but I just have found other methods.

Method 1: This is the one I primarily use and it works for me. I cut about 1/2 inch of the fabric off either side of the zipper teeth. Then, with the curved side of the zipper facing the tape, insert on side just a tiny bit in the tab.

Then stick just a little bit of the other side of the teeth into the tab, try to have the same amount on each side. From there I grab the zipper tape with my left hand, just below the tab and hold firmly, with the other hand pull the tab down over the teeth. It should resist just a bit, then slide down.

Once you have the tab in place you can add more tabs if you need more zippers or just cut the length you need. If you want to make a double zipper, those instructions are below. You can see my zipper tape ended up just a bit uneven, I just cut to even up when using.

Method 2:

Here is another way to thread the zipper tab onto the tape. This method you do not cut the sides of the tape. Install your zipper foot onto your sewing machine. We will be using it as a clamp to hold the tab. With the right side of the zipper tab up, place it under the raised foot, then lower to hold it in place.

From the back side of the foot, separate the zipper a few inches. Thread just a bit of the teeth into one side of the tab.

Add the other side of the teeth into second side of the tab. Grab both sides of the zipper tape.

Gently pull until you see the tape come out the bottom of the zipper tab. You may need to place one hand on the tab and one hand pull.

After the tab is securely on you can lift the pressure foot and remove the zipper.

Those are two ways you can thread tabs onto zipper tape. On last thing to mention is how to add a second tab to a single zipper. In this case you want the flat ends of the tabs to be together. So the first tab you thread as above.

For the second tab you will completely close the zipper teeth. Use the tab already on the tape to help close the teeth if needed. With the flat edge of the tab towards the teeth, press the tab onto the closed teeth.

It will go in a bit, then stop. Use a pin or something else small to place inside the top of the tab and pry the teeth apart. Once you get it started the tab should slide onto the teeth.

Now you have a zipper that slides both ways and it perfect for bag making and/or sweatshirts.

Projects to make with zippers

All of these projects below use zipper by the yard that I purchased and used just like described in the tutorial.

• School Pencil case with zipper
• Zipper pocket for bag making
• Diagonal Zipper case
• Zipper cross body bag free pattern

The post How to use zipper by the yard appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

I saw a set like this on an ad for a cheap foreign company and knew I could recreate it. I ordered some fabric, looked through my free pattern library and came up with this cute linen summer set. The look turned out so cute, and the ruffles were great too. I’ve never done a ruffled neck like this, but it turned out so cute! You can find all the details to create this look as well using two free patterns and the hacks found here.

Linen summer set

I used a beautiful faux linen with slight stretch from Sincerely Rylee fabrics for this project. I wanted a different color, but the others were sold out since I was a bit late to order. It has a great little bit of stretch, which makes it easy to work with and so comfy to wear.

I used two free patterns to create this look and will share the pattern hacks below to accomplish the design. The pleats and ruffles on the top are so fun! I think the ruffled neck is my favorite.

I should have lengthened the top about another inch and maybe sized up just a bit on the pattern for the fabric choice. We are pretty pleased with the final look though. Of course the pockets are a big hit.

The waistband and pockets are a different color because I ran out of fabric. I had 2 yards and I needed 2.5. I adjusted for this in the supply list below. I don’t mind the contrast, but that’s the reason.

The keyhole at the back neck makes this pattern work with woven fabric and adds a cute detail.

Summer set free sewing patterns

Here are the supplies you will need to sew up this fun linen summer set.

• Linen or faux linen… Mine is faux from Sincerely Rylee fabric. I used 2.5 yards for a size 10.
  • rustic linen
  • Any medium weight fabric will work for this, but softer is of course better
  • I think a double gauze fabric would be lovely too.
• Free patterns- Used here were:
  • Kids crop top
  • Family Pj free pattern
• Hook and eye closure or button/elastic closure
• Fabric marking pen
• 2″ wide elastic for pants
• Sewing machine and or Serger
• All seam allowance is 3/8″ unless otherwise marked

Print sewing patterns and trace out {or cut out} size desired, blending sizes as needed. For the crop top I lengthen by 5 inches {can measure child or use a shirt they like to add length} and also cut the arm/shoulder down to about 1″ wide from under arm curve.

For adding pleats to the front you need a piece of fabric just leave as a rectangle. You can see below how I have my pattern laid out on the folded fabric. A bit of room on the top/bottom and 3-5 inches of extra width.

Tutorial to sew a linen summer set

NOTE: 3/8″ seam allowance unless otherwise marked.

Use a fabric marker or tailors chalk to mark out pleats. I drew 5 with a single center and two on each side. If I did it again I would make two in the middle so I can press to the sides. It was hard to press the center flat. I love my water soluble pen for marking.

Fold the fabric so the center marking is on the fold, then pin or clip and sew a 1/4″ seam to create the pleat.

Repeat with each pleat, one at a time. Then fold fabric in half with center pleat or center of pleat{s} on the fold line. The bottom of the pattern won’t line up anymore as the pleats added width.

For the back you will just cut as the pattern is printed. Make sure to cut the higher back neckline. After you cut on the pattern on the fold, cut a key hole on the back center neckline. Mine is approx 3″ down and 1″ in on the neck. You can make it more rounded or keep leaf shaped like mine. Keep that piece you just cut out.

Take the cut out scrap and lay it on a larger scrap of fabric. Trace around the cut out and then 1.25″ out from the shape – this will be the facing.

Finish the outer edge of the facing with your serger or a zig-zag. Pin or clip right sides together to the back of the shirt.

Sew with normal seam allowance. Clip bottom if a V shape, if a circle shape, clip the whole curve.

Turn to back side and pin or clip in place. Press if necessary.

Top-stitch very close to folded edge, then on outer edge of facing as well.

With right sides together sew shoulder seams.

Measure around neck opening. You will need to cut a ruffle about double this length. Mine was 17″.

My ruffle is 36″ x 3″ wide. Adjust the length as needed, but cut it 3″ wide for the neck ruffle. Fold in half. Sew two gathering stitches along the raw edge of the strip. Need help gathering? Check out my gathering tutorial here.

Pull the threads to gather to the desired length. The ends of your gathered ruffle are open. Fold in 3/8″ on the end of the ruffle to finish the edge. Sew down this turned in edge.

Pin or clip to neckline, matching up the back edges. I like the serger finish on this ruffled edge. Fold the ruffle up and top-stitch to finish.

Measure the arm/shoulder opening. Cut your ruffles about 2x the length and this time 4 inches wide. Cut two of these.

Fold the fabric in half and sew gathering stitches on raw side. Gather to length of shoulder, then pin or clip, right sides together.

Sew ruffle to shoulder, then flip open and top-stitch. Repeat on other shoulder. With right sides of the shirt together, sew the side seams. Start at the edge of ruffle, then sew around the curve and down the side.

I serged around the bottom of the shirt, then turned up a 1/2″ hem and stitched on my sewing machine.

To finish the keyhole you need a hook and eye, or small button and thread elastic. I had a hook and eye so I used that. On the back side of the neck ruffle, sew each piece of the closure. the edge of the hook and the edge of the eye should line up with the edge of the keyhole opening.

When closed the fabric should touch or very nearly touch. Here is the inside and outside view.

I used a damp towel to blot the fabric pen markings. Now onto the cute pants!

How to sew linen pants from a free pattern.

Ok! Now its time to sew up the pants. These are much simpler, but I did hack a pattern just a bit, so I will explain what I did.

Here is the supply list again from the top.

• Linen or faux linen… Mine is faux from Sincerely Rylee fabric. I used 2.5 yards for a size 10.
  • rustic linen
  • Any medium weight fabric will work for this, but softer is of course better
  • I think a double gauze fabric would be lovely too.
• Free patterns- Used here were:
  • Kids crop top
  • Family Pj free pattern
• Hook and eye closure or button/elastic closure
• Fabric marking pen
• 2″ wide elastic for pants
• Sewing machine and or Serger
• All seam allowance is 3/8″ unless otherwise marked

Because I am adding a waistband and the family pj pattern is meant to just fold over, the first adjustment is to cut off 1″ from the top. I also lowered the top another 1″ because Rose likes it lower rise. Cut a waistband 5″ tall and the same width as the top of the pants.

I wanted to add side pockets, so do do that I need side seams. I folded the pants in half, matching the crotch at the fold. The front will be higher than the back. Cut the legs in half on the fold line. If The back side of the legs will wider than the front. For a wider leg look you can widen the front to match the back – see where I’m pointing in the second photo. Extend the side of the front leg to match the back.

Cut out two pockets {if desired}. Here is a pocket template if needed. Place the two side seams of the pant fronts side by side and with right sides together place a pocket edge on the side. It should be 1″ down from the top edge. {I cut my pockets on a fold, so it looks a bit strange here} Sew the pocket in place.

Fold the pocket open and top-stitch. Repeat with the pockets on the back sides, with right sides of fabric together.

Take one front and one back and line up the side seams with the pocket out the side. Pin or clip down the side and around the pocket. I sewed the whole thing with my serger, but I did reinforce the top and bottom angle of the pocket with a zig-zag first as those angles are hard on the serger.

Once you have sewed up the side you can open and see the pocket. Repeat with the other pair of legs.

Match the fronts of the curved crotch seam together and the back curved seams together and sew.

Match the center crotch seams and line up the inseams. Pin or clip down from the center. If the bottoms don’t quite line up due to pattern alteration, just trim a flat hem later.

Next lay the waistband at the top of the pants and cut to right size. Sew short end to form a circle.

Fold in half the long way and line up the seam of the waistband with the back seam of the pants. Pin or clip the three raw edges together. Sew in place, leaving a 3″ opening at the back.

Cut elastic 1″ shorter then childs waist, then thread through the opening. Overlap the ends of the elastic and sew closed. Pull elastic inside the casing and then sew the waistband hole closed.

You can leave the waistband as is, or sew two parallel lines of top-stitching to hold in place and add a bit of detail. Stretch the elastic as you sew the straight stitch lines to avoid puckers.

I serged the bottom edge of the pants, then turned under a 1/2″ hem. You can also turn up 1/4″ then another 1/2″ if you don’t have a serger. Now you can enjoy the beautiful matching linen summer set you just created!!

The post Linen summer set free patterns and tutorial appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

A few weeks ago I shared a new free pattern for a girls button front tank dress and Rose has already worn the dress several times, it’s so perfect! I wanted to make a women’s version of this dress and it just took me a few more weeks to figure out the top bodice so it fit well. I’m so excited for this version of the dress that I sewed up last week, and I’ve already ordered fabric to make another one.

Tank sundress with button front

Ok! Let’s dive into talking about this dress. First, it turned out just as I wanted, and second, it takes quite a bit of material for the skirt! As you can see it’s very full! This fabric was only 44″ wide, so I used 4.5 yards of fabric. If your fabric was 60″ wide you could use close to 4, maybe 5 for the larger sizes.

I added pockets {of course!} and I love this feature. The only thing that isn’t my favorite is that you can see some of the lines where I joined fabric vertically for my tiers. I think this will be better after a washing. And of course I could always iron {haha – who am I kidding}

I found these cute flowers at Hobby Lobby and if you shop when fabric is 40% of it would be a great deal. This dress would also be great in the double gauze that I made the kids version in a few weeks ago.

I took these photos so you can see the arm and back coverage, the top is not tight, but the coverage is perfect.

I may scoop my next version slightly lower in the front, but this is pretty good like this. You can also make a wider shoulder version, instructions are below.

Other summer dresses to sew

Here are some other free patterns and tutorials for dresses you should check out.

• Girls Tank Sundress
• Circle Dress sewing tutorial
• Babydoll dress free pattern
• Tiered dress free pattern
• Knit tank dress pattern kids
• Womens knit tank dress
• t-shirt dress free pdf pattern
• 15 dresses to sew post
• girls tank dress

Supplies for sewing a woven fabric tank sundress

Here is what you need to make this gorgeous dress. Right up front I’m going to remind you that LIGHT weight fabric is a must! My dress is nearly five yards of fabric, but is still super light and easy to wear as the fabric is light. I’ll like a few options below.

Here is the size chart for your reference. Waist is not nearly as important as the bust. This is your FULL bust measurement {measure right across the biggest part of your chest. I was a 36 and sewed as size M}

• Lightweight fabric. {Sincerely Rylee Airflow fabric}{Raspberry Creek Airflow} {blue shown in this post – from Hobby Lobby} {double gauze fabric}
  • 4-6 yards depending on size and fabric width
• Five to six 1″ buttons
• sewing clips – I have theses exact ones and they are 8 years old and going strong!
• Sewing machine and or Serger
• Download pdf pattern using blue button below

After you download and print the pattern you will assemble it so it looks like this. The pdf pattern is the printable bodice pieces, you will just cut strips of fabric to gather and sew for the skirt. More details on the pdf and in the tutorial below.

Button from tank dress sewing tutorial

You will cut out the pattern pieces from the printed PDF pattern first. You will have two back main, and four back sides. Four fronts and four front sides. Transfer the black line marking from the pattern to the fabric. All seams at 3/8″ or 1 cm. Sew with a serger or sewing machine.

With right sides together, take a back main piece and place one back side on the curve, matching the fabric marking. Ease the curves on either side of the marks. Pin or clip in place.

Here is the back with sides sewn. Repeat with the other back piece and the four fronts.

Press the seam allowance in towards the main body side of the bodice. Press on the front and back side of the fabric.

Take two fronts and one back piece and pin or clip at the shoulders. Sew the shoulder seams. Repeat with the other set of pieces. At this point you will try on – see below. If you want to take in the shoulders, cut 1″ off the outer shoulder, front and back laid together, easing the curve to just below the middle dart seam.

Here is my try on after sewing a muslin. I can take in the darts just a smidge, and I also folded under the shoulder to see if I wanted to make the narrow shoulder adjustment. Next time I may take a bit off the neckline and scoop the neck a bit more as well. Its easier to take off than add on, so I’ve given you the full coverage pieces to start.

Take your main and lining pieces and line them up at the shoulders and down around the front overlap. Do the same with the arm openings, making sure to match the center dart seams. Sew these pieces together.

With the back facing you, pull the front flaps through the shoulders. Press if needed. When I used the double gauze I did not press the fabric, due to the nature of the fabric. This fabric I did press.

Match the bodice sides, right sides and matching the center seam. Pin or clip then sew.

Top-stitch close to the edges along the neck and arm openings.

Arrange the buttons to see how many you need to use. I would not place more than 2″ apart. Arrange to your liking. Mark the button placement.

Sew the buttons to the bodice. Overlap the front edges 1″. Mark the buttonhole placement and sew buttonholes. Need help using your machine to sew buttonholes? Check out my buttonhole tutorial here.

Because this fabric likes to fray a bit, I like to put a drop of fray check on the button hole, let it dry, then cut it open. Button up the front and your dress top is complete.

Measure the bottom of your top to get started. We will now cut widths of fabric for the dress tiers. My fabric was 44″ wide so I did 2 pieces for the top tier, three for the second, and four for the third. If you fabric is 60″ wide I would may just do 1 – 1 and a bit for the first tier, then 2 and then 3…

My tiers are each 12″, for about a 34″ length skirt {after seams} I did a rolled hem for my bottom, but if you are folding under a hem, I would add 1″ to the bottom tier.

Fold the fabric in half, then half again to make cutting the widths of fabric easy.

Here is all my fabric cut for the tiers. Because I had two widths for the first tier I had side seams, which means easy pocket. If you don’t have side seams you can cut your fabric so you do. I just winged the pockets seen here, but if you need a pocket template you can get one here. {use the largest size} Cut four pocket pieces.

I sewed my pockets on the bottom of the first tier. I left 1.5″ from the bottom of the tier to make it easy to sew on the next layer, but you can see the pockets are low on the sides. With right sides together, sew a pocket piece to the two sides of the front panel and the two sides of the back panel. Make sure they are all in the same place on the fabric so they line up. Sew and open up.

Top-stitch along the edge of the pocket. Place the front panel on top of the back panel, lining up the pockets. Sew down from the top, around the pocket, and the 1.5″ inches at the bottom. I used a zig-zag on my sewing machine since all the turns are tough on the serger.

Now sew two gathering stitches on the top of this tier. Need help with gathering? Check out my gathering tutorial here.

Gather the top of the tier to match the bottom of the bodice. Keep the sides with the pocket at the bodice side seams. With right sides together flip the skirt up, and clip the layers together. Keep the 1″ overlap of the bodice secure then you sew. Sew with the gathers up towards you to keep them laying straight.

First tier in place! Sew the panels of the second tier together to from a circle. Gather the top of the second tier to match the width of the bottom of the first tier. Sew.

Repeat process with the the their tier if desired. Hem with a 3/4″ folded under hem or rolled hem.

You did it! Now you have your new favorite summer dress. I can’t wait to sew a couple more! It’s so comfy!!

The post button front sundress free pdf sewing pattern appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

I saw this shirt in a social media add for some super questionable company… and I knew I could make something similar. I loved the message and the combination of applique and embroidery, so here is my new favorite shirt and the tutorial of how I made it.

Made for More Applique t-shirt

I’m very pleased with how this shirt turned out. I bought the shirt and just grabbed some fabric from my stash for the words. I maybe wish there was a bit more contrast, but overall I love the look and design. All supplies will be listed below in the tutorial.

I’m still deciding if I want to shorten the shirt just a bit, although it worked great with these leggings I was wearing when I took the photos. If you are new to machine embroidery you should check out my beginner embroidery class.

More amazing Applique projects to try

• Double layer applique
• Multi-fabric applique
• Reverse applique
• Applique sign without a embroidery machine
• Sports Mom shirt applique

Applique and Embroidery shirt tutorial

Supplies I used:

• Tshirt {this one is from Hobby Lobby}
• Fabric scrap from stash
• Heat and Bond {or any applique backing}
• Embroidery clip scissors
• Embroidery machine with 9 x 9 hoop
• Two font designs I purchased
  • Narrow Sports Applique lettering
  • Handwriting machine embroidery designs
• Embroiery thread

Start by cutting a rectangle of your fabric slightly larger than your design will be. Fuse a piece of heat and bond to the back.

Remove the paper backing and set aside. I used two layers of medium tear-away in my hoop because of the stretch of the t-shirt fabric.

Add some placement marks on your shirt. I like to mark the center and either the bottom or top line of the design. Here I marked the top. Hoop the front of the shirt only, centering the hoop with the center placement marker.

Both fonts I used were purchased online, so I used a usb to transfer the letters I needed to my machine. I put two sizes of the MADE on my usb to see which one I wanted to use. Here is the design laid out.

On my machine I have the no-sew feature, so I used that to get rid of the for more letters. If you don’t have this, I would just create the MADE first and stitch it, then add the second part of the design.

For the applique stitch out the placement lines for all letters. Then add the rectangle of fabric.

Stitch the second placement/tack down layer for each letter, then remove the hoop from the machine. Use curved embroidery scissors {linked above} to carefully trim around each letter.

Then fuse the fabric to the shirt with an iron. {remember the heat and bond from the beginning? This is the second fuse of that material} Stitch out the final step for each letter, adding the satin stitch.

When the applique finished, I went back and un-did the no-sew of the second layer of letters. I arranges my for more letters so they overlapped the applique a bit, but you can adjust as you want. Stitch this out.

I ended up added the Bible reference for this phrase in the upper right hand, but you could add below or leave off. I love how this turned out and can’t wait to use this concept for other shirts and designs.

The post Applique and Embroidery Shirt tutorial appeared first on Life Sew Savory.

I’ve actually been wanting to make a dress like this for me. I bought this fabric thinking I would sew myself a tank dress… however, drafting a womens pattern is more involved and I didn’t even buy enough fabric, so this week you get a gorgeous tank dress for girls! The size range is great… 12M-14Y, although if your girl has a very developed chest, this dress may not fit well as the top is not shaped. More on that below… But… how cute is this tiered tank dress?? And today I’m sharing the free sewing pattern.

Gorgeous tiered tank dress free pattern

Rose and I are loving this new dress! As I mentioned above I have a plan to sew myself a tank dress, but I didn’t buy enough fabric and it takes longer to draft a womens woven tank due to shaping. {haha} Anyway, I sewed this up and Rose tried it on it’s just perfect.

This gorgeous tank dress is sewn from a light double gauze and even though it’s almost three yards of fabric {lots of gathers in the skirt}, but it’s still light and flowey.

The buttons on the front are functional, but this dress did go on and off without unbuttoning. Rose is wearing the size 10/12 for the tank {her chest is a 28″, so the perfect fit for this size}. The double gauze has a bit of give, due to the bumps in the gauze, but even a regular woven fabric would fit great for her in this size.

I also think this tank dress would be perfect over a fitted tee if you need to layer for spring. The skirt is so full and beautiful as well.

Other Summer dressed to sew

• Circle Dress Free pattern
• Babydoll dress free pattern
• T-shirt dress with tiered skirt
• Upcycle mens shirt to tank dress
• Knit fabric tank dress
• Tshirt dress with ruffles hack
• Onesie dress sewing hack
• Free dress pattern
• Tank pattern for woven fabric

Tiered tank dress free pdf pattern and supplies

Let’s jump into the tutorial. Here is what you will need to sew this tank dress.

• 2-4 yards of fabric. {the size 10 here used almost 3 yards} The size 14 probably needs about the same as the skirt would be the same fullness, the smaller sizes can use less fabric.
  • I used a fun double gauze fabric that is light and airy. Faux linen or other light woven fabrics would work well.
• 3-4 Buttons. Find a style and color that works for you.
• Download and print the 4 page pdf pattern using the buttons below.
  • The skirt tiered do not have printable pieces. The tutorial here and the pdf pattern have written instructions only.
• All seam allowances are 3/8″ or 1 cm.

Here’s what the four page pattern pieces will look like when assembled. You can either trace the size you want to use or cut out the pieces. Since this is only 4 pages I cut them out. Usually I trace and keep the original pattern. The back you will cut on a fold and the front you do not. You will need two backs and four fronts to sew this tank dress.

I would suggest sewing up the tank bodice, then when that is finished, cut and sew the skirt. There are suggestions for the skirt on the pdf pattern and I will also give a ton of details for cutting and sewing the skirt below in the tutorial.

Tank dress sewing tutorial

Time to get sewing! Now that you have prepped to sew {at least for the tank top} let’s dive in. Reminder, all seam allowances are 3/8″ or 1 cm. I sewed the whole thing with my serger. You can use a serger or a sewing machine straight stitch.

You should have two back pieces and four front pieces. Line up shoulder seams of one back and two fronts. Sew the shoulder seams on one set. Repeat this with the other set of tank pieces.

With right side up, lay the tank out. Place the other set on top with right sides together. Pin or clip the front opening and around the neckline and also the shoulder edges. Sew with your serger or sewing machine.

Now you should have these seams below sewn. If you used a sewing machine you will need to clip the curves on the seam allowance before turning. Bring each front piece through the shoulder to turn right side out.

Your tank bodice is now right side out. At this point I would suggest pressing and even possibly top-stitching if desired. I didn’t do either step with this double gauze, puffy fabric. If you iron it, the fabric gets flat and weird.

Next we will sew the side seams. On one side of the tank, move the open side seams close together, then will right sides of the fabric touching, match the center under arm seam. Pin or clip along the open side seam. Do this for both sides of the tank.

Sew the side seams, then fold the fabric back over to hide the seam inside the layers.

Now you have a tank bodice that is coming together. Overlap 1″ on the front pieces, pin or clip in place to mark overlap.

Arrange 3/4 buttons to your liking. Start at the very top of the neck and work down to raw edge. Do not place a button too close to the bottom or you will not be able to sew the skirt. After placing the buttons, I like to make the bottom of the button for hole placement.

Sew the buttonholes on your sewing machine. {tutorial linked if needed} Cut open the holes and then mark through the center for button placement.

Sew on the buttons.

I’m loving how this is all coming together! Now measure the bottom of your bodice, the skirt will be built off this measurement. Mark this circumference {mine was 28}, then decide how long you want the skirt to be. I wanted it around 30″ long.

You can measure your child from the shoulder top down to see how long you want the completed dress to be, or lay this tank over a dress that you like the length.

After you have your dress length {mine was 30}, divide that by three {or two if you only want two tiers} So I needed 3 tiers of 10 inches. You also want to add 1″ to each tier for seam allowance. This is how you decide the height of each tier.

Now for the width. Ideally you want each tier to be around 1.5x the width of the one before. So the first tier, my tank bottom is 28″, so my skirt tier should be around 42″, My fabric was 48″ wide, so I just went with 1 width of fabric. I kept my skirt simple, first tier 1 width of fabric, second tier 2 widths and third tier 3 widths of fabric.

If my fabric was wider than 48″ I would have not used the full width for the first tier. This is again for the size 10/12. For smaller sizes you will not want to use this much for your first tier. I cut all the strips.

For the first tier, sew the width of fabric in a circle, then gather that circle to match the size of the the bottom of the tank. Need help with gathering? See this gathering tutorial post. I used a two thread gather for this skirt, all tiers.

Evenly space the gathers. Pin or clip the gathers to the bottom of the tank top. Sew with your serger or sewing machine. Remove any gathering stitches you can still see.

For the second tier take the two pieces of fabric and sew the short ends into a circle. Gather the top of the tier.

Evenly space the gathers, then sew it to the bottom of the first tier. Remove any visible gathering stitches as before.

I like to hem the third tier before its on the skirt to make it easier to sew. I sewed the three pieces of the bottom tier into a circle, then sergered the bottom. Fold over a 1″ hem and sew with a straight stitch.

After hemming I gathered the top of the 3rd tier to match the bottom of the second. Sew it on and your tank dress is finished.

I was so thrilled to see this finished! It was a bit of work with all the gathering stitches and spreading out the gathers, but totally worth it in the end!! I would highly recommend the double gauze for this project, just so cute!

Here are a couple of outtakes from our photo shoot. {haha}

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