The Tool Tutor

How To Choose A Saw

2011-10-14T19:59:00.000-04:00

Circular Saw, Reciprocating Saw, Jig Saw, drywall saw, hole saw, handsaw, and a hacksaw. These are just the saws that I carry with me everyday, not to mention all the specialty saws in my home and shop. Now, I can admit it “My name is Curtis and I am addicted to tools”. Luckily my chosen profession allows me to feed my addiction with little guilt, however for the average homeowner the basics will usually have to do. In this on going article I will list the saws needed for everything from basic household repairs to advanced home improvement projects, which models I prefer and why. Check back each month for the next saw in the series.

Battery vs. Electric

This will be brief don’t buy battery powered saws unless you will be consistently cutting far from a power source. They are underpowered, run out charges quickly, and not adequate for most building jobs. Don’t get me wrong I do own a set or two and use them occasionally for convenience but do not recommend them over electric tools

This Month's Featured Saw:

Circular Saws

The most common type of power saw is the Circular Saw it is typically used for crosscuts (across the grain) and rips (cuts with the grain) in dimensional lumber or plywood. With a little practice most people can master cutting with a circular saw. This type of saw is very versatile and can handle most cutting tasks; in addition it is quite compact which makes it ideal for storing or transporting.

Styles

Circular Saws come in several varieties, the traditional style known, as a sidewinder in which the motor is located on the left side, is lightweight and compact. A left-handed version which is opposite of this type is also available not only for left-handed people. Many people find this version easier to operate and to see the cut line. A Worm Drive is another type of Circular Saw. This model has the motor on top instead of the side and is much heavier it also has considerably more power. This model is more common on the west coast and was invented and used for framing houses during the 1950’s housing boom in California and has remained very popular by professionals.

My preference

I have and use both types sidewinder and worm drive and to be honest I love them both. I keep the Milwaukee sidewinder in my truck and use it all the time. Because its bigger and heavier I keep the Skill Saw Worm Drive in my shop. I would have to say the worm drive cuts smother, easier, and straighter on long cuts. But for cross cuts and general cutting I prefer and recommend the Sidewinder.

7 Tools Everyone Should Own

2011-10-14T16:42:00.001-04:00

Whether you are a homeowner or just have a desire to build with these basic tools you will be able to accomplish most house hold repairs and endless small projects. Having the right tool for the job is very important when performing repairs of any type, this well-rounded set of tools will be enough for any homeowner to maintain their home or as the beginnings to a great tool collection. Buy quality tools, take good care of them, and they will last you a lifetime.

1. Measuring Tape
It’s very hard to be accurate with no or a low quality measuring tape and accuracy will defiantly make home repairs more pleasant. I prefer Stanley’s Fat Max Tape mostly because of its strength and durability.

2. Drill
A Cordless Drill is a must have these days. They can drill holes from a pinhole to 6” with the right bits and can drive any screw, nut or bolt. With the recent advancements in battery technology cordless drills have as much or more power than electric drills depending upon the models. For Drills I prefer Makita tools although there are many other good brands of drills. Drills and Impact Drivers is a previous post that provides a deeper look into this tool.

3. Hammer
Obviously everyone need a good hammer! I prefer a straight claw as a posed to a curved claw hammer. Not just because it looks cooler, but because it reaches under things easier. Pick on that matches your size and strength.

4. Speed Square
Shaped like a right triangle this very handy tool has many useful marking already on it for marking angles and roof pitch. But mostly it allows you to mark straight lines and can serve as a guide for cutting.

5. Multi-tip Screwdriver
Having an all-In-one screwdriver is very handy. For the times when you have 3 different types of screws in one table, plus it’s less to carry and less to keep track of. Kline Tools would be my choice for screwdrivers.

6. Channel Locks
This sliding jaw type of wrench that can grab up to 2” diameter pipe. This tool is very handy for turning nuts and bolts to plumbing repairs.

7. Circular Saw
This Saw is the workhorse of wood saws. It can be used for most cuts on most projects. From cutting 2x4’s in half or cutting a long thin strip of plywood this saw will be able to handle almost any thing you throw at it. For Circular saws I use Milwaukee Tools because of their quality and ergonomic design. For more information on saws please read How to Choose a Saw

Every item on this list is available at Amazon.com where you will find the best prices on new tools. Buying used tools is also an option, Should I Buy Used Tools? Will answer any questions you have when buying used tools.

Should I Buy Used Tools?

2011-10-14T16:40:00.001-04:00

Buying used tools is a great way to save a little money without sacrificing quality. Although you do need to be cautious when buying used tools, if you follow a few simple steps you will be able to build a high quality tool collection for around half the cost of buying new tools. Some of the best places to buy used tools include local pawn shops, Craigslist.com, EBay and of course, friends and family.

There are other options that are tempting but more risky. Places such as flea markets where there may be no power to test the tools (and usually no way to find the seller if you were taken advantage of) can be dicey. Buying used tools “off the street” is another bad idea. I have been lured in a couple of times when working in some areas of town that have numerous “street vendors” walking around from job site to job site with a handful of tools for sale. Buying tools like this is a bad idea. These tools are almost always stolen and it can be extremely risky dealing with some of these individuals. After they make the sale, you could very well be their next victim. Whether it’s that day or another day, once they see what you have they will remember and likely be back.

Inspect Carefully Before you Buy
Careful inspection is very important when buying used tools. Look each tool over thoroughly to make sure there are no cracks in the plastic or metal housings. Check that all moveable parts move freely and operate properly. Plug the used tool in and give it a hard test; not just a quick squeeze of the trigger. Bring a piece of scrap wood with you for a test cut or to drive a screw through. If the tool has a set of accessible brushes then remove them and inspect for damage. You can tell a lot about a tool’s condition by just looking at the brushes. Please read, “Why should I buy tools that have ‘Brushes’?” for more on inspecting the brushes. Damaged cords are not usually a big problem; cords can be easily replaced for around $10.00. A damaged cord could be used as a bargaining chip to get a lower price.

Should I Buy Used Cordless Tools?
Buying used cordless tools is generally not a good idea unless they appear to be brand-new or at least have a brand-new battery. A cordless tool’s battery can appear to have full strength and power but quickly drain out. This is especially true with older model cordless tools. New cordless batteries cost around $60.00 and up, so to buy new batteries for used tools may end up costing more than new tools.

Conclusion – YES….. IF you have done your homework
When buying used tools you should expect to pay anywhere from 30% to 50% off retail pricing, depending upon the condition of the tool, the type of tool, and where you are buying the tool. Your best bet for getting a good deal and knowing what you are getting is Craigslist. With this option, you should be able to give it a good test and you will have the most negotiating room. This is also the most labor-intensive method; mostly because of the potential travel involved. Whichever sellers you use for buying your used tools, inspect them carefully, test thoroughly, and negotiate fiercely.

Remember, when buying used tools you should have a thorough understanding of the tool and the retail pricing before you begin shopping.

How To Water Proof Your Home

2011-10-02T11:37:00.000-04:00

Water Proofing Your Home

Water proofing your home is very important! From the roof to the basement (or crawl space) interior spaces must be kept dry. Water infiltration of any sort can lead to major problems such as mold, insect infestations, rotted wood, damaged masonry, or in extreme cases, even building failures. Water Proof your home now to prevent damage later. Because of their proximity to a home’s failing gutter system, rotted exterior trim boards are very common. Gutters and downspouts must be maintained; they are the number one cause of water into a home. Other common causes of water infiltration are poor drainage around your home, clogged splash blocks and underground drains, or even a leaky hose bib. Detecting water leaks can be very tricky but if you take a logical and methodical approach most homeowners should be able to detect their own leaks.

The first step is to fully understand how your home’s water shed system works, and the general principals of water flow. Gutter backups are the most common cause of water coming into a home. However many people will insist that their basement gets wet because the water table rises during wet weather. This is almost never the case! I have run across this problem before but it is very rare and usually only in extreme conditions or very low lying areas. The best procedure for water proofing your home would be to start at the top with a roof and gutter inspection and “Follow the Water”. Inspect down spouts and splash blocks, and make sure the grade is sloping away from your house.

Roof and Gutters

-Inspect roof for obvious signs of damage or missing pieces. (This can sometimes be done with binoculars)

-Inspect and clean out gutters, as needed (this should be done a minimum of two times a year for most homes)

-In springtime check that all gutters and fasteners are firmly attached (heavy snow or ice can pull them away from your home)

-Also make sure your gutters are not bent down in the middle (from snow or ice) and they flow properly.

If water is heaping over the edge or running down the side of your house because of a gutter problem then damage will occur and your basement may get wet.

Down Spouts, Splash Blocks, and Under Ground Drains

-Inspect all downspouts to make sure they are attached to the gutters properly and are connected to your house.

-Also confirm that any elbows, bends, or connections are properly attached and clear of debris.

-Make sure your splash blocks (the concrete or plastic blocks at the bottom of your downspouts) are in place and sloping away from your house.

-Some homes have under ground drains instead of splash blocks, these drains can be very prone to clogs.

-Try to confirm that under ground drains are flowing properly by using a garden hose to flush them out.

Grading and Drainage

-All dirt, mulch, grass, side walks, patios or whatever surrounds your house must slope away from the house and continue sloping for at least 8 feet.

-Make sure all splash blocks and downspouts slope with the grade.

Methods For Water Proofing Your Home

Keeping water away from the house is very important when water proofing your home. However, with some homes this is not enough or not an option at all. Installing a Drain Curtain and waterproofing membrane to your foundation walls is very effective for most conditions. But, because it requires complete excavation around all foundation walls, it is very costly. This is messy and expensive and should be done only as a last resort.

Installing a sump pump is an effective method for keeping a basement dry. When positioned in the low spot (or trouble spot) of a basement it should pump away all water under the slab before it creeps up into your home. (This water would likely be coming from poor exterior drainage NOT a rising water table)

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6 Ways Make Your Home More Energy Efficient

2011-09-22T16:32:00.000-04:00

Seal your cracks and gaps now and save this winter

1. Inspect your Doors and Windows

Doors and windows are one of the biggest causes of energy leaks. Check all weather striping around doors for obvious tears or holes. Simply locking windows and doors makes an amazing difference on some home’s energy loss. It is hard to maintain energy efficiency when every door and window has the equilivilant of an inch hole in them from the seal not being pushed tight. Also, keep your dryer door closed and check your dryer duct for rips and holes. Make sure it is sealed where it exits the house.

2. Turn down your water heater temperature

On the front of your hot water heater there is a metal panel, remove this and you will see a temperature dial. All homes and water heaters differ slightly but experiment with your unit, lowering the temperature to the bare minimum that you will need for a comfortable shower. This is usually just below average for the summer and just above or right on average in the winter. At the bottom of your heater there is a drain (typically for a hose to connect to) this is to drain the lime sediment out of your unit to prevent corrosion. The lime can damage your heating elements and cause them to fail and be much less energy efficient.

3. Install a Programmable Thermostat

This is a great way to save money when you are not home. You can also adjust your thermostat manually but it is much easier and more energy efficient to “set it and forget it”. For around $60 or so you can get a very nice unit and usually install it yourself with little trouble. Before you purchase a new thermostat, just make sure you know what type of HVAC system you have.

4. Install Window Tinting

Similar to a very lightly tinted window in a car, the windows in your house can be tinted as well. Typically, it is so faint you won’t even notice the tinting was done. However, you will notice in the energy savings! I have seen the average temperature in a room drop 8 degrees after being installed. How’s that for energy efficiency!

5. Install an Attic Exhaust Fan

Attics can get very hot and humid which leads to the same for your house. Proper venting is essential for any attic but typically not sufficient to keep your attic cooled. Adding an attic fan with a built-in thermostat and humidistat will help to keep your attic cool all summer long. These fans are around $120 but depending upon your situation and skill level, you may need an electrician or handyman for installation.

6. Install Blown-in Insulation

Adding a foot or two of cellulose insulation to your attic is a great way to become more energy efficient. This is a big job but it can make a huge difference in your heating and cooling requirements. If you buy the insulation from Home Depot or Lowes you can rent the blower for free. Depending on the size of your attic, you could still easily spend over $1,500 on materials. However, this energy saving project may qualify for a energy efficiency tax credit.

For more details on Energy Tax Credits:

http://www.energystar.gov

Tax Credit:10% of cost up to $500 or a specific amount from $50 - $300

Expires:

December 31, 2011

Details:

Must be an existing home & your principal residence. New construction and rentals do not qualify

5 Best Places to Buy Tools

2011-09-11T11:50:00.004-04:00

There is nothing I like more than getting a great deal on tools. I have bought all types of tools from all types of vendors. Some have been great deals and some have been not so great. One time back in my younger (more naive) days I bought a couple thousand dollars worth of tools from a traveling tool salesman. Before the advent of Internet shopping, these guys were somewhat common along the East Coast. They would drive around, usually farm to farm, trying to sell their truck full of tools. I got suckered and bought them all. Keeping in mind that I am a carpenter; somehow he talked me into buying $2,800 worth of low quality, specialty, auto mechanics tools. At least this did inspire me to learn a lot more about how to repair my truck but needless to say, it was not the deal of the century. However, on the other side of the coin, I have found great deals on tools as well. Home Depot has a “returned and reconditioned rack” hidden somewhere in all their stores. If you are in the right place at the right time (good tools go quickly and sometimes employees have an advantage) you can get GREAT DEALS. I have bought many tools this way and received up to 50% off on top quality tools. Buying used tools is another way to save a little money. Buy high-grade quality tools and purchase carefully. Pawnshops, EBay, and Craigslist are all good sources for used tools. I have had good experiences buying and selling used tools at all of them.

In recent years I have joined the online revolution and have been buying most of my tools on the Web. I must admit I was very slow and reluctant to begin making such purchases but finally came around. What made me change my attitude towards shopping online was that everything is cheaper! And I didn’t have to show up at Home Depot at 5:30AM, hopeful for a possible bargain. With a little searching, you can find the absolute lowest price in the country in minutes, and 9 times out of 10 it is on Amazon.com. Because they use many smaller suppliers, all competing for your business, they can assure you of the lowest prices. If you exert some patience, shipping can be very low cost or free. Waiting a couple days for your tools to arrive is the biggest drawback but the cost savings definitely makes up for it.

Here are my top 5 favorite places to buy tools:

1. Amazon.com

Consistently the lowest prices on tools with low or no shipping costs.

2. EBay

Great deals can be found on both new and used tools.

3. Local Pawn Shops

Great deals on quality tools can be found with lots of patience, persistence, and caution.

4. Home Depot

Very convenient, competitive pricing, most items in stock and available, with some patience and persistence deals can be found.

5. Lowes

Very convenient, competitive pricing, most items in stock and available.

An example of how much cost difference there is between

stores would be this Makita cordless combo kit. Home Depot and Lowes are selling it for $233.99 and I have seen it on Amazon for as low as $198.99. This is just one example of how Amazon.com can consistently beat almost any price. So, buy quality tools and buy them cheap!

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Drills and Impact Drivers

2011-09-10T16:58:00.002-04:00

Buying a Cordless Drill or Impact Driver is a great way to start a tool collection or just upgrade a what you already have. My very first power tool was a 9-volt Makita cordless drill and let me tell you, I was psyched! I thought I could build anything with my new cordless drill. It had power, (so I thought) it could drill, drive screws, it did it all. Then I tried my friend’s new 12-volt Dewalt drill. WOW, what power! (So I thought) and this conversation could continue on and on through a set of Dewalt 18-Volt tools and then a set of Milwaukee 18-volt tools and a few others along the way that came and went so fast they are not worth a mention. And yes, I still have and use most of the aforementioned tools. Although with new developments in cordless batteries in the last few years, I tend to pick them up less and less. The new Lithium-ion batteries out-perform any “old school” battery by leaps and bounds. Not only are the batteries longer lasting, much lighter, and faster charging, but the tools have more power as well.

In the process of building a deck on his home, my friend complained that his “old school” 18-volt cordless kit was not holding charges very well and running out of power. I lent him my Makita 18-volt Lithium-ion combo kit that includes a drill and an impact gun. The Makita Drill will out drive any older model drill and is half the weight. The Impact Driver is even lighter and will sink a 3 1/2-inch screw like a hot knife through butter. That was 3 weeks ago and needless to say, I can’t get them back. (Luckily it’s my extra set.)

Some nice features of the Makita combo set include:

• Ultra light frame and batteries

• Built-in belt clip (not included on all models)

• A built-in flashlight (something I didn’t know I needed until I had it)

• Quick charge batteries or extended life batteries

But the best feature of all is the Makita Drill feels good in my hand, has great balance, and provides uncompromised performance. These drills are the workhorses of my toolbox. I use them daily and have owned this set for over two years now. They have been dropped from ladders, fallen off the back of my truck at 45 mph TWICE (in their soft case), and even worse, they have been used by my helpers. Even after all that, they work as good as the day I bought them. I must mention that one of my four batteries is starting to go bad, but probably due to leaving them in extreme cold most of the winter.

So pick up a Makita Impact Driver and you will never want to drive a screw with anything else again. At least not until they come out with another new model.

Makita Drill Makita Combo kit Milwaukee Combo Kit

What’s so great about a Grinder?                        Visit The Tool Tutor Stores:

Do I Have to Remove my Wallpaper?   The Tool Tutor Gift Shop

Painting Tips and Tricks   Skeleton Crew Work Gear

Coping Crown Molding                                                      The Tool Store

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For The Love of Tools    In Home Construction Lessons

An Easier Way to Cope Crown Molding

2011-09-10T16:07:00.002-04:00

Cutting and installing crown molding can be very tricky, especially for a beginner. One of the trickiest parts is getting the mitered joints to line up in the corners. Most carpenters cope the inside corner joints with a traditional coping saw. This allows for a perfect join even if the wall is not square. Traditionally, coping crown or other types of molding is done with a coping saw. This saw has a very thin blade with a bow frame. after you cut a miter for a inside corner, you need to cut with the coping saw along where the miter cut begins on the front of the molding. cutting out and removing the tip of the miter cut and some out of the back of the piece

Using a traditional coping saw can be very difficult and takes a lot of skill and practice. Another method for coping is to use an angle grinder. Angle grinders are very useful for a variety of jobs from carpentry and millwork to masonry and metal work.

To set a grinder up for coping:

-Use two 80 grit sanding discs approximately 4” across.

-Line them up back to back with a grit facing out in each direction.

-Attach them to the grinder as you would with a standard cutting wheel.

-Now that you are set up, you can use the grinder to relieve the back of the crown molding as you would with standard coping saw, but A LOT faster.

Using this method takes a little practice because a grinder is very aggressive. Use a light touch and start at the thicker parts of the wood, moving to the thin tip of the crown moldings very carefully. To finish up the little details of the trim, use the edge of the wheel barely touching the molding.

This method of coping crown molding will save you countless hours and lots of aggravation not to mention coping blades.

What’s So Great About A Grinder?

2011-09-09T20:59:00.006-04:00

The Angle Grinder is probably one of the most underrated and unknown tools in my toolbox. Even when people DO know what an angle grinder is, they rarely realize how useful it actually can be. Buying a grinder can be a great addition to any tool collection. Grinders are inexpensive, very durable, very versatile, and can be used on a variety of jobs. They come in several of sizes, most common and the most controllable is the 4-inch model, which represents the size of the disks it takes. Disks come in many shapes and sizes and can cover a variety of tasks.

Using the correct disk or cutting wheel is very important since disks come in a variety of materials and thicknesses. Disposable metal and masonry-cutting wheels are the most commonly used disks. These disks are specific for each material and grind away as you use them. Hence they are only good for a handful of cuts until they shrink to the size of a half dollar and become trash. These disks, even though disposable, can cut just about anything put in front of them; assuming you are using the right disk for the right material.

A Diamond edged dry cut blade is another type of masonry cutting wheel used mostly for cutting ceramic tile and natural stone. This set up will take care of almost any cut when working with ceramic tile and can be used instead of an expensive wet saw. Granite and marble fabricators also have many uses for a grinder from making the cutout for your sink to polishing the stone smooth with water-cooled diamond grit sand paper. The grinder can also be used for sanding and shaping wood, sheet metal fabrication, sanding and polishing welds in metal and much more.

Some of my favorite uses for my grinder are using it to cope trim, quick cuts in metal (that would take forever with a hack saw), cutting circles and shapes in ceramic tile, sculpting wood, and cutting patio pavers. It’s not a tool I need every day but when I do, I sure am glad it's in my toolbox.

Do I HAVE to remove my wallpaper?

2011-09-01T07:25:00.008-04:00

Removing wallpaper has cost me more time and money over the years than I care to count. The process is very unpredictable and of course, very time consuming. So, do you HAVE to remove your wallpaper? No, not always!
My procedures for removing wallpaper are as follows:

• First test a spot or two to see if it will pull off easily and in one piece. (Ha Ha Ha! Almost never happens.)
• Next, mist with extremely hot water and attempt to saturate. Now test a spot with a scraping knife and more hot water. If the paper starts to come off somewhat easily then continue until all paper is removed.
• If the paper is not coming off by misting with hot water, you can switch to DIFF wallpaper remover or a wallpaper steamer. Any way you do it this
part is no fun!
• After all the paper and glue is removed, prime with oil based primer (low odor now available). The primer will seal in all the glue you couldn’t remove and prevent cracking in the final finish.

At this point you could paint, but 95% of the time the walls look mutilated from all the scraping and water. So it’s time to skim coat all affected areas with drywall compound then sand, prime with drywall primer, and finally paint.

The uncertainty of wallpaper removal is the part that gets me every time. Between not knowing how long it will take and destroying the walls, I HATE IT.So my new approach is to leave the paper up and in tact. (Unfortunately heavily textured paper MUST go – sorry!)

Here’s how it works:

• First I prime everything with oil-based primer especially the seams and edges.
• Next, tape, mud, and sand all seams, caulk all corners.

You will now have very smooth flat walls ready for drywall primer and paint. This new procedure is still a lot of work but the final product looks great and it’s a lot easier than removing everything.

As a final word of caution, if you have anything other than smooth well-attached wallpaper then I recommend complete removal.