... sending postcards

Japan Home Movie

2019-07-31T08:16:00.001-07:00

I took so many photos in Japan but didn’t really make it a priority to take videos (as usual). I always love when I stumble upon an old clip from our travels, but it’s usually something silly like one of us dancing in a hotel room or something we thought was amusing at the time. Those videos usually just end up on Instagram stories or never to be seen by the public, on a hard drive.

We did manage to string together this video of a bunch of clips from our time in Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka. Every time I watch it I want to go back to Japan ASAP. But it also makes me wish I spent a little time thinking about making compelling videos instead of it being an afterthought.

About a decade ago, we bought a tiny octopus-like device with flexible arms called a Joby Gorillapod. It was meant to screw our little point-and-shoot camera onto so that we could wrap it around a tree or prop it up on a bench to get pictures of the two of us when we were traveling alone and didn’t want to ask another tourist. So, when Joby reached out to us to see if we’d like to try something from their new range of equipment, we thought it would be fun given we were early adopters ;) JOBY has an entire section on their website dedicated to phone tripods and devices that are perfect for people who want to make creative videos.

I'm looking forward to trying out the gear they sent us. We already have a large rig for our Sony and a big clunky old tripod for the DSLR, so the Gorillapod Mobile Rig will be lightweight compared to the two - which means it’s more likely we’ll actually reach for it and makes it easier to travel with.

If you’re curious to see us testing it out, find me and on Instagram where I’ll be posting about using the rig in my stories in the upcoming weeks. - Mina

Staying At A Traditional Japanese Ryokan - Ikumatsu Kyoto

2019-04-15T15:25:00.000-07:00

Comfort is something that we really value when traveling, so sleeping on the floor doesn't typically sound like an ideal option... especially on vacation. We were, however, intrigued enough to stay at a traditional Japanese Ryokan, so we left our cozy bed at the Brighton and booked one night to check it out. The rooms in the 200-year-old building have been arranged in an authentic Japanese style with tatami mats and decorated with antiques and collectibles.

One night here was enough. A lot of Ryokans have onsens which probably give them more of a spa like environment. I might consider that someday, but I'll stick to regular hotels for awhile.

The people at Ikumatsu are really accommodating and friendly. Your breakfast is included with the stay. We shared one traditional Japanese breakfast and one "American" breakfast which consisted of scrambled eggs and cold cut ham. After eating, we tried on the yukatas they left for us (with instructions) in our pink room. The experience and serene atmosphere definitely made up for the poor night's sleep. - Mina

Next Stop: Osaka!

Find us on Instagram: @minaseville | @alexanderseville

Around Kyoto

2019-04-14T18:49:00.001-07:00

miscellaneous photos from around the city....

FIND US ON INSTAGRAM: @minaseville | @alexanderseville

The Brighton Hotel

2019-04-12T16:34:00.000-07:00

The Brighton Hotel was where we chose to rest our heads during most of our time in Kyoto. It's highly rated, really clean, and relatively inexpensive if you can find a deal. It's not a luxury hotel and the beds were very much on the firm end, but I loved the amenities. You can't go wrong with shower rooms that have rainfall nozzles and a Japanese Toto. I'd definitely consider staying there if we returned and wouldn't hesitate to recommend it. - Mina

Oden at Ebisugawa Enraku | Kyoto

2019-02-13T18:54:00.000-08:00

When our tea ceremony was over, our friends took us to one of the most popular restaurants in Kyoto: Ebisugawa Enraku. They wanted us to try Oden, a traditional dish in Japan. Consisting of fishcakes, boiled eggs, daikon, and konjac, it's basically a soup. The aforementioned ingredients are stewed in a soy-flavored dashi broth to make a one-pot meal. I'm not certain if Ebisugawa Enraku does this, but I've read that some restaurants keep the broth as a "master stock", meaning they replenish it while it simmers over months, sometimes years, to add depth and complexity to the flavour.

This finally answered our question of "What is that?" when we saw a bunch of foreign-to-us items stewing next to the cashier at 7-Eleven or Family Mart. Ebisugawa Enraku, however, doesn't serve convenience store oden. The quality is one of the reasons it's loved by locals for a nice evening out.

We can see how this can be a comfort meal in the evening or during cold months in Japan. Honestly, we preferred the sashimi. I think this is something that would be so much more enjoyable if the flavours were introduced to your palate at a young age or if you're a huge seafood fan. We're grateful for friends who introduce us to new things - this was such a fun experience.

The restaurant is beautiful and, while they do have chairs, we sat at a chabudai on the floor which, at 6'2, Alex always struggles with. I'm fairly flexible and it does take some getting used to. Eating soup over a table while sitting cross-legged can be challenging!

Ebisugawa Enraku also serves izakaya dishes that we'd love to try if we ever find ourselves in Kyoto again. - Mina

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@minaseville | @alexanderseville

Ippodo Tea Co. in Kyoto

2019-02-09T12:19:00.000-08:00

At the beginning of 2009, we met a couple from Japan at Mara House in Luxor, Egypt. When we lived in Montreal, they visited and we showed them around... and when we went to Kyoto, they graciously drove us around the city and played tour guide.

One of the places they took us was Ippodo Tea Co. which is a shop for premium tea, like ceremonial matcha. There is also a tearoom attached where the aim is "to communicate a fuller appreciation of the charm and allure of Japanese green tea through tea classes and other activities".

We were taught about the different kinds of matcha, about the ideal water temperature, and used a timer to make sure we got the perfect steep. Our friends kept calling the dark green drink "super matcha". The actual name is Koicha and it's the highest grade ceremonial matcha (it was quite strong). I'd say matcha can be an acquired taste, especially if you are used to having your tea sweetened. They kindly sent us home with some Uji-Shimizu, which I enjoyed with almond milk. I've since grown to appreciate matcha more, even without a sweetener.

We're so thankful to our friends for this experience that we would have never thought to do on our own. I'm thoroughly embarrassed that our equivalent was taking them to La Banquise in Montreal where, in true Japanese fashion, they politely said they enjoyed cheese curds and gravy. Perhaps poutine is an acquired taste, too? ;)

Social media is mostly a nuisance but it's amazing to me that we've been able to keep in touch with a couple we met over an evening tea in Africa because of it and that, so many years later, we were able to share a different kind of tea together again. - Mina

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@minaseville | @alexanderseville

Kosumosu (Cosmos) コスモス

2019-01-24T13:38:00.000-08:00

When our friends picked us up for dinner, they took the scenic route and drove by this field of flowers.

It was so much more beautiful in person than I captured from the car as we sped by. - Mina

Kamo River 鴨川 Part II

2019-01-23T15:53:00.001-08:00

To get back to our Ryokan, we had to loop back to the Kamo River after exploring Gion. The people we saw screaming into the river earlier were still at it despite the fact that we were in Gion for nearly and hour... We walked along the opposite side and I snapped some photos, of course. - Mina

Gion | Kyoto 祇園, ぎおん

2019-01-22T12:19:00.000-08:00

After our walk along Kamo River, we headed to the Gion district of Kyoto secretly hoping to spot a geisha. Apparently, in Kyoto, the local term is actually geiko which means "a woman of art" whereas geisha denotes "artist". I'm not sure of the exact distinction but it's worth knowing if you're participating in someone else's culture. Unfortunately, the geikos eluded us but we did get to do a little window shopping and explore a new neighborhood so, all was not lost. - Mina

Kamo River 鴨川 Part I

2019-01-20T11:53:00.001-08:00

While bikes seem to be the preferred method of transport for the residents of Kyoto, we opted to explore on foot. A popular place for a leisurely stroll and/or a picnic is on the banks of the Kamo River.

Kamo River is a favorite spot for tourists and Kyotoites alike to hang out. Cyclists and joggers pass by while many people sit contemplatively on the grass. Restaurant patios face the river, and the energy of the area is very relaxed, with children noticing but reacting calmly to the sight of a heron landing on the stepping stones to find a fish.

We experienced some sort of performance art happening that day where people took turns shouting what we believe to be horoscopes... even our Japanese friends were perplexed and weren't sure what to make of it but their explanation may have just been lost in translation. You can watch the video below to see if you can figure out what's happening.

This was a lovely start to a full day exploring Kyoto. If we ever visit again, we might pack a bento box and sit down for a picnic like the locals. - Mina

Sushi no Musashi in JR Kyoto Station 寿しのむさし

2019-01-12T06:29:00.000-08:00

On our way home from the famous Fushimi Inari Shrine we took the convenient route of stopping for dinner at Sushi no Musashi in the Kyoto train station. Despite its location, it's popular with locals and tourists alike. Kaiten-zushi (回転寿司) translates to "rotation sushi". Plates wind through the restaurant on a conveyor belt and you can just pick up whatever you're craving. Your bill is determined by the number and style of plates left on your table.

Yoshiaki Shiraishi invented this style of dining when he has issues staffing his small sushi restaurant and managing people on his own. The idea came to him while watching beer bottles on a conveyor belt at an Asahi brewery. It took him 5+ years to develop the design and speed of the operations. The very first conveyor belt sushi restaurant was opened in 1958 and now they're famous around the world... including a certain touch screen one that we've visited more than a few times.

Sushi no Musashi has the most unique assortment of sushi options we’ve seen at one place: eggplant, roast beef, raw horse & mane (???), baby sardine, and grilled corn nigiri, in addition to high quality favorites. If that isn't enough, you can also make custom orders. It's a spot worth adding to your list if you're in the area.

Fushimi Inari Taisha 伏見稲荷大社 Part II

2018-10-10T12:44:00.001-07:00

The hike up Inari mountain takes about 2 hours, winding through torii gates, forest, and shrines. In Shintoism, torii symbolically mark the transition from the mundane to the sacred, a feeling that was especially felt as we hiked through thousands of the distinctive vermillion colored gates.

Along the route, we saw cat photoshoots, older gates being repainted, and a variety of shrines. From the top, we watched as the sun set over Kyoto before making the journey back down to the temple at the base of the mountain before it got too dark.

Fushimi Inari Taisha - Part I

2018-09-21T01:56:00.000-07:00

Kyoto is full of historical sites and shrines - none more famous than Fushimi Inari Taisha. Dedicated to Inari, the shinto god of rice, the shrine winds it’s way up the mountain side.

The shrine grounds are bustling with street food vendors, providing visitors with energy for the climb. Tourists gather around the massive entrance pillars to get their selfies, and worshippers cleanse with water and, and submit offerings of ema. Ema translates to "picture horse" and are small wooden cards to write wishes and prayers. Traditionally, in ancient times, a real horse was donated but over time it became plaques of a picture of a horse, and ultimately became what they are today. We wonder who the first cheapskate genius was that gave a picture instead of a real horse. You can purchase them to hang on the shrine. Apparently, they are burned in a ritual to liberate the wish from the writer.

We waited in a small line for Takoyaki (battered and fried octopus balls) because, although it really didn't seem appetizing to us, we thought if it's going to be good anywhere, it would be in Japan. We should have mentioned that we didn't want Bonito / Katsuobushi (dried, fermented, and smoked skipjack tuna). I've said it before, I imagine it's what fish food tastes like. So, like a bunch of 5 year olds, we scraped it off and took a few bites of the dough because we couldn't deal with the texture of the octopus. A lot of people love Takoyaki and it's all over Japan... it's just not for us.

We also thought it was a good idea to drink out of an overpriced pulpy orange before climbing over 10k steps... this wasn't our proudest travel days in terms of using our brains. This is a lot of complaining, but we did really enjoy ourselves despite the dehydration and hunger. Learn from our mistakes: bring your own water and pack a lunch if you're not in the mood to be adventurous with food, since there aren't too many options.

Stay tuned for our trek through the iconic torii to the top of Inari Mountain.

Kyoto | Day One

2018-08-27T20:27:00.002-07:00

After a 2 hour pleasant shinknasen ride from Tokyo, we arrived in Kyoto and headed to our hotel. The ride was extra comfortable since we didn't have to deal with our luggage (because it had been shipped from our hotel in Tokyo). Typically, we wouldn’t trust a service like this, but Japan is nothing if not safe and reliable. Our bags were wrapped and waiting for us on arrival.

We spent our first day exploring the quiet residential neighborhood near our hotel, and took in the sunset before grabbing a late dinner. We ordered from a vending machine (as one does in Japan), and enjoyed some Japanese comfort food of soba noodles with duck broth and katsu curry.

Tsukiji Fish Market | Tokyo

2018-08-23T19:22:00.001-07:00

Tsukiji Fish Market is among the most famous tourists destinations in Tokyo. It’s a working seafood market that serves as the wholesaler for restaurants in Tokyo, Japan, and the rest of the world. Walking around the market you can find just about any type of fish, shellfish, or sea creature imaginable. Trolleys speed around, and men chop gigantic tuna with huge knives while chain smoking. It’s not fancy, organized, or calm but it is an interesting experience to see the efficiency of an operation so important to the Japanese economy and cuisine.

After you’re done gawking at the eels, tuna, and crustaceans, there are a variety of tiny restaurants offering the freshest sushi meal you’ve ever had. We lined up for Sushi Dai on our first trip to Tokyo, years ago. It was purported to have the freshest fish and best set menu. This time, on our last day in the city, we opted (mainly because the line at Sushi Dai was too long) to try a nearby competitor.

Like most of the restaurants in the area, the spot we dined at had a very orderly system for dealing with the queue. A woman came out and handed everyone a laminated menu (in English for us). In addition to the usual sushi, chirashi don, and sashimi, they also had something we hadn't seen or heard of before: Nakaochi Scrape. I suppose they were asked enough about it to also have an explanation (and photo) of what it was right on the menu. Nakaochi is essentially the tuna left over on the bone, after the fish has been filleted. There are restaurants in the market where they will serve the entire rib and you literally just scrape off the meat. The place we ate at served it over a bed of rice with pieces of sashimi. Alas, while our meal was okay, the restaurant we chose just didn’t offer the same welcoming experience and quality of Sushi Dai which we would wholeheartedly recommend waiting for if you can spare the time (and we never recommend waiting in lines).

When you’re done, consider picking up a chef knife or other kitchen utensils from one of the supply stores near the entrance. (Although, a Japanese chef recently told us that Kappabashi was the place to go for these things.)

Some of the pictures below are graphic and intense, so, if you find that you are easily queasy or turned off by meat prep, I'd skip looking at the photos. It's probably for the best that we ate before going through the market...

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Sunrise Over Tokyo Tower

2018-07-24T17:11:00.000-07:00

I woke up before sunrise (and Alex) on our last day in Tokyo, sat on the window seat and watched the light change on the buildings and the clouds turn from shades of purple to blue. Seeing the city wake up from my own private perch was a perfect way to spend my last morning in one of my favourite cities in the world. - Mina

F I N D U S O N I N S T A G R A M

@alexanderseville | @minaseville

Tokyo Tower

2018-07-23T07:30:00.000-07:00

On our last evening in Tokyo, I took a million photos of the tower because I didn't want to ever forget this incredible view. We felt so lucky to be here. - Mina

Around Tokyo

2018-07-21T12:38:00.000-07:00

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Japanese Metro Signs

2018-07-19T23:13:00.000-07:00

Nothing shows Japan’s love and reverence for cartoons and comics quite like the various instructional posters you see while traveling on the metro lines throughout the country. Some caution against running for the (anthropomorphic) train, others show you how animals wearing suits would use the turnstiles, and there was even one promoting “molester eradication”.

Park Hotel | Tokyo

2018-07-17T14:06:00.001-07:00

The first time we visited Tokyo, nearly a decade ago, we stayed in Shinjuku which made it very convenient to explore the west side of the city. On this trip we opted for a hotel closer to the central/eastern side, for a change of scenery. We ended up finding the Park Hotel Tokyo, located in Shiodome. It’s close to the famous Tsukiji Market, the serene imperial gardens, and the restaurants of Roppongi.

The hotel is located above the 25th floor in a skyscraper and the lobby is in a 10 floor high atrium. While we were there, sculptures were on display around the hotel from various Japanese artists. It was like having a museum right in the hotel. Some of the rooms even have murals painted on the walls .

While our room didn't have a mural, it did have an incredible view of the Tokyo skyline, including the Tokyo Tower. We spent a little time each morning and evening sitting on the window seat watching the Shinkasen bullet trains snake their way through the city, the lights, the reflections, and just taking it all in.

F I N D U S O N I N S T A G R A M

@alexanderseville | @minaseville

Tokyo Subway

2018-07-15T08:31:00.001-07:00

The best way to travel around Tokyo is undoubtedly the subway system. Several different lines crisscross and circle the city, making it easy to traverse the megapolis in a very short amount of time. On top of this, it's also ridiculously clean and many stations are adorned with art displays.

Your journey on the Tokyo metro starts at the ticket machines. Whether you're buying the single trip ticket, or the re-loadable Pasmo pass, the machines offer an intuitive, English menu for selecting the fare. We opted for the Pasmo cards so we could avoid waiting for the machines each time. Once you've paid, the task of determining your route and platform are also surprisingly straightforward. The various lines are color coded, and each station is numbered and labeled in English, making it easy to navigate your way around the city efficiently.

Though the stories of overpacked subway cars during rush hour are true, outside of the morning and evening rush you end up waiting a very short time for each train, and can often find a seat. The stereotypes of Japanese politeness are reinforced when you see people line up, let people exit the train first, and then carefully squeeze into their spot on the train. Our rides were fairly relaxed, and the system is so safe and efficient that we saw many children commuting by themselves. In fact, it's apparently common for children as young as 6 to commute on the subway and run errands by themselves - quite a contrast from the attitudes in North America.

When you've finally reached your destination station, you can usually find high quality restaurants within the station themselves. The most famous example is probably the Michelin starred sushi restaurant made famous by the documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi, but each station has a different variety of restaurants and stores (or even huge malls, in the case of stations like Shinjuku). Shimbashi Station (pictured here a few times) is much smaller than Shinjuku, but still had some gems to discover.

Purikura プリクラ - Japanese Photo Booths

2018-05-10T11:33:00.000-07:00

After some impressive miming and horrendous pronunciation of Japanese words around Akihabara, we were pointed in the right direction and these glorious images were the result. Shut up, they're not creepy at all!

Snapchat (and now Instagram Stories) has essentially rendered the novelty of these obsolete, but I had to do this while we were visiting Japan and dragged Alex along... I want to say he's a good sport but I know he had just as much fun as I did. There is an entire culture surrounding purikura, that has been explained extensively elsewhere, so I'll include a few links below if you're interested in learning more or looking for inspiration to seek out one of the booths during your next trip to Tokyo. The experience of making these photo strips is so much more exciting than gazing into your phone camera. - Mina

(◡‿◡✿)

(づ｡◕‿‿◕｡)づ

**(ﾉ◕ヮ◕)ﾉ*:･ﾟ✧

What is Purikura? Some behind the scenes pictures, cost info., and a 360° view

How to Purikura Like a Pro
Allegedly, the "ultimate guide" (I didn't read it)

A somewhat instructional video
The screens move fast and you have to follow the posing prompts, then run from the green screen room to the decorating room....

How to get Purikura on your phone**
(This is obviously complicated if you don't speak Japanese... lucky for me, Alex found it more intuitive than I did and made it happen without instructions)

(˵◕ ɛ ◕˵✿)

Akihabara

2018-05-09T06:45:00.000-07:00

In search of the famous Purikura Japanese photo booths, we made our way to Akihabara - the area of Tokyo where these strange machines are located. It was an adventure trying to explain what we were looking for to anyone who would listen. We got distracted by some shops and then pulled into the obnoxiously loud, cigarette smoke-filled world of arcades. Alex garnered a little audience while playing a drumming game, but quickly got bored and gave his lives to some kid.

This neighbourhood would be a dream for gamers, cosplayers, and possibly pervs. We probably would have enjoyed it more if we were any of those things, but it was interesting to check out anyway. Did we find the photo booths? You'll have to stay tuned to find out. - Mina

Kudanshita Warayakiya

2018-04-25T11:35:00.000-07:00

There weren't many restaurants near the park we were wandering around. We stumbled onto a beautiful narrow building wedged between two fast food restaurants, a dentist, and a bunch of commercial real estate. Hungry, and kind of tired, we figured we'd take our chances without checking reviews. Sometimes, it's a challenge to navigate Tabelog (Japan's version of yelp) on the phone and we weren't in the mood to decipher translations.

If you're going to luck out anywhere for good food with minimal research, it's going to be in Tokyo. Kudanshita Warayakiya is a beautiful restaurant. They had an English menu for us, and the staff was incredibly friendly.

We ordered bonito with wasabi and salt, which had a really unique flavor because of the way it was "cooked" (it's mostly raw, just seared). They had an entire section on their menu that was fresh food from "the market of Tosa" - mostly fried vegetables and meats. "Otooshi" was served to us, which was described on the menu as "a simple dish served at restaurants and pubs to accompany alcohol before the ordered dishes come out. They are served whether an order is placed or not, and can be chargeable." It was ¥380. They had Japanese Nabe Hot Pot dishes that we didn't try. Instead, we opted to share the garlic and salt yakisoba that was found under the "Rice of Tosa" section.

When they served us our otooshi, we had no idea what it was and since no one spoke English it was fun trying to figure out what we were about to put in our mouths. We ultimately determined it was some sort of corn dish with the help of the translate app and Google images. The food was delicious, the service was excellent, and the ambiance was amazing, but we did discover that they serve horse and whale at this restaurant, so, if that's something that offends you, don't add it to your list.

Tokyo Imperial Palace & Kitanomaru Park

2018-04-20T11:25:00.000-07:00

In the middle of Tokyo sits the residence of the Japanese Emperor, the Imperial Palace. In practice, it’s just a large park surrounded by a moat with no "palace" to see (in the sense of one specific building), but a collection of lakes, gardens, bridges, and nicely curated walking paths. It’s pretty much the exact opposite experience of visiting Shibuya crossing, so it provided a nice balance to the activities of the previous days.

...and photos from the same spot in 2008! :)

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