Courses on Horses

RECIPE - NEW SPRAY ! (Works for flies AND rain rot!!)

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sat, 13 Jul 2013 23:51:00 +0000

*UPDATED 8/31/2016*

While I think my recipe for "natural" fly spray has been my most popular post and one of the most popular conversations when people email me, I was never 100% satisfied that I was using a commercial product such as Skin-So-Soft. I mean, it WORKED and it was vastly a safer, healthier option than the poison-laden fly spray on the counters in the tack stores but I never liked not knowing exactly what all was in the Skin-So-Soft mix. (It definitely was not a "natural" fragrance! and artificial fragrances are some of the most toxic chemicals in our products today)

I decided to play mad scientist and play around with just natural ESSENTIAL OILS.

Friends - I have to say I am extremely excited and proud to say that the combo that I used not only worked well as a fly spray, (and kept the bot eggs off of him in the process) but FOR THE FIRST TIME IN HIS LIFE, my 9 year old gelding DID NOT HAVE A TRACE OF RAIN ROT. Not a trace. Nada. It BLEW MY MIND. Sorry if the all caps looks like I'm yelling but yes....I'm yelling!! haha Because I'm excited!!

I think the Lavender played a large part in it, although the ACV is very anti-fungal/bacterial as well. Whatever it is, it worked a miracle on my little boy. *please keep in mind that for rain rot, this works IN CONJUNCTION with a daily brushing.

Here's the NEW RECIPE!!

In a clean, empty spray bottle, (mine is 28oz.) mix together:

1/2 cup of any healthy, natural "carrier" oil. I used light olive oil. *I love coconut oil but only in warm months as the coconut oil coagulates in cool temperatures and will stop up your bottle. But in the summer, use it! It's wonderful!)
1 cup of vinegar (either white or apple cider vinegar will work)
40 drops of 100% pure Citronella essential oil
40 drops of 100% pure Lavender essential oil
40 drops of 100% pure Eucalyptus essential oil
20 drops of 100% pure Lemon Eucalyptus essential oil (can substitute Lemongrass oil)
Fill the bottle the rest of the way up with water and shake well.

Shake well each time before applying it to your horse and since the oil will quickly separate, it's best to shake periodically while using it, to keep it well mixed.

I spray this on the horses twice a day - morning and evening and it works!

(If you're exercising your horse heavily and he/she is sweating a lot,, then obviously, you will probably have to spray down more often)

Now, I'm positive that, since nothing works the same for each horse and each person, someone is going to email me and say it didn't work. All I can say is that it WORKED for me and if it doesn't for you, then play around with the oils. Add 10 more drops of Lemon Eucalyptus, Citronella or Eucalyptus until you get a combo that the flies in your area despise. You'll be glad you did.

By all means, email me and let me know what you think!!!

Woot! \o/

*IMPORTANT NOTE* - Please use only pure essential oils, NOT aroma therapy oils that are for FRAGRANCE only. There is a huge difference. I have been getting all of my oils from www.vitacost.com and have been buying "NOW Foods" brand and the "Aura Cacia" brand. So far, Vitacost has had the best prices I've found. Let me know if you find a cheaper supplier for quality oils! :)

UPDATE! 8/31/2016 : After reading an article that states that Lemon Eucalyptus essential oil is as effective as Deet, I now add Lemon Eucalyptus to my fly spray and have modified the recipe above. Depending on what I have on hand, sometimes I substitute Lemon Eucalyptus for the Lemongrass and if I have them both, I use both! I love the smell and they both work!

Here's a link to that article. http://www.treehugger.com/lawn-garden/cdc-confirms-lemon-eucalyptus-oil-as-effective-as-deet.html

"IS YOUR BLOG STILL ACTIVE?"

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sat, 13 Jul 2013 21:50:00 +0000

Every once in awhile, I get an email asking if my blog is still "active". I've not been quite sure how to answer that! :) The information is just as relevant today as when I wrote the first article back in 2008. And I still get emails every single week from people asking very specific advice for their horse and I do my best to personally respond to each one through email. Sooo...with that in mind, I guess the answer would be YES! The blog is still very, very active.

On THAT note, because every thing I've posted here and all of the emails I answer each week are a donation of my personal time without compensation, any amount you care to toss into my "tip jar" through the Paypal donate button over in the right hand column will be most graciously appreciated!! Hey! Even a dollar helps! :)

Thank you to all you loyal followers and to those who write me to tell me how helpful my blog has been. That was (and still is) my goal.
Stay in touch!
With much love,
Melanie

How do you take a horses' pulse?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 12 Nov 2008 00:27:00 +0000

Of course, the easiest way to take a horses' pulse is by pressing a stethoscope directly behind the front elbow, in the girth area and listening to the heart. Since a lot of people don't own a stethoscope and even if we did, we may be out riding and not have one with us, it's a good idea for every horse owner to know how to take a pulse without one.

You can take the pulse in numerous places on the horses' body where there are large arteries that can be felt directly under the skin.

One easy spot is directly under the jawbone. Press your index and middle finger into the hollow of the jaw, (the deep depression under the horses head, between the two large jawbones) and feel for the pulse.
The inside back of the front knee is another good place (below the knee, several inches below the chestnut)
Lastly, I would recommend taking the digital pulse at the back of the fetlock. The reason I advise this as the last place to take the pulse is because it is very difficult to actually feel a pulse there. By the way, if you DO feel a strong pulse at the back of the fetlock, it is a good indication that your horse is foundering or in the beginning stages of acute laminitis! It would be a good idea to watch your horse very closely. If you see any signs of or suspect founder, call a vet immediately.

You take the pulse by counting the number of times the heart beats in a minute. The quickest and easiest way to do this is to use a watch or clock that has a second hand and count how many times the heart beats in 15 seconds and then multiply that number by 4.

TIPS, Product Swaps & Household Remedies!

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sat, 23 Aug 2008 12:54:00 +0000

~ NOTE: I will be updating this post periodically, as other ideas come - so check back often! ~

We may not always have the "horse specialty products" on hand OR want to make our own in order to save some money. Here are a few products you may have around the house to use instead:

If you don't have Swat to put on wounds, you can use most products (meant for use on skin) that contains zinc oxide which will keep flies away. Some of these products are diaper rash ointments from Desitin, Burts Bees, Aveeno, Gerber, etc. There are several facial moisturizers that contain zinc oxide, such as Oil of Olay, Cover Girl and Revlon (Check the ingredients label for zinc oxide)

No gauze pads for dressing a wound that needs to be covered? No problem! Use diapers or feminine napkins (yeah, mini or maxi pads!) Don't be embarrassed! They work! If you're the shy type or afraid of being embarrassed, you can disguise them under medical tape or leg wraps. They are clean, they won't stick to the wound, they wick away moisture, they will hold your medications in and keep dirt and flies out! What more can you ask for? It's a great idea!

No leg wraps? Cut the toes out of panty hose or knee high stockings and slip right over onto the horses leg and over the wound! NOTE: Since it's better for some wounds to get air, you can use nylons, pantyhose or knee high stockings alone without other bandages or pads. It will allow the air to circulate to the wound but flies cannot lay their eggs on it. Just make sure the nylons are clean, are not too tight that they cut off circulation and change them when they get soiled.

Got thrush? Use vinegar (white or apple cider) or Listerine mouthwash! (any flavor) Both of these products are awesome at killing bacteria.

Need to soak a hoof injury or abcess? Mix equal parts of vinegar with water for an effective hoof soak that will kill germs and bacteria.

Need a whitener or spot remover? Or have a really dirty horse? Vinegar to the rescue again! (I buy gallons of the stuff!) Equal parts of vinegar and water can replace your current spot remover. For especially tough stains or badly stained tails, use full strength and soak for about 5 minutes. Just be sure to wash it out well.

TIP: Use those socks!

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Mon, 18 Aug 2008 15:20:00 +0000

I don't know about you but around our house, socks are strange creatures. I used to think my teenager thought of them as "disposable", (use them once and then throw them away). But I think it's more like the toys in Toy Story, I'm almost convinced that they come alive when we're not looking and some of ours just leave. Some of them hide in the sofa cushions, under the end tables and under the car floor mats but I think most just get up and walk out of the house on their own. (Actually, I think a few have discovered an escape hatch under the washing machine) I always have a laundry basket full of all sizes and styles of unmatched socks, waiting for the mate that never returns. Well, don't throw those single socks away! Save them for your horse! No, I'm not talking about using them as ear warmers...but now that I think about it, I guess a horse could be kinda cute with soft, fuzzy pink or blue ears!...and it might keep the gnats away! but here's more of what I had in mind:

Store them in a plastic bag or roll them up into themselves, making a big ball and throw them in your grooming kit, first aid kit or tack barn. When you need them, slip the sock over your hand like a glove for all types of uses:

Apply those goopy medication cremes and pastes. And it will keep your hands clean! (And the cotton socks will be a nice, soft touch to sensitive areas or wounds!)
Use to clean out the eyes, ears or nostrils;
Clean the sheath or anus;
Use as a soft, tack cleaning or polishing cloth;
Put one or two around the Thrush Buster or Blue Lotion bottle to help keep your hands from getting stained purple! (or hoof polish!)
Keep one in your pocket and spiff up boots right before going into the show ring!
Cut the toes or feet out of tube socks and use them for leg bandages! It will help keep the wound clean, help keep the medication on longer and keep out flies! (Note: If you're dealing with a wound on the hock, the "heel" part of the sock will fit quite nicely over the hock joint! If the wound is on the front of the hock, you can also cut a small slit in the sock that will allow the hock to stick out and give the hock joint more freedom of movement!)

These are just a few uses. Use your imagination and I'm sure you'll come up with even more handy ideas! I was so excited to find something to do with all of those lone socks. If you're really thrifty, you could wash and reuse them but for really goopy messes (and especially those "personal cleanings"), I will definitely pitch them. After all, in my house, I'm sure there will always be a steady supply of them!

Let me know what other uses you find for them!

My horse won't stand still!

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 14 Aug 2008 23:56:00 +0000

It's just my personal opinion that unless there really is a tiger in the woods , (like so many horses think), a horse should stand still when you need or want them to, regardless of what you're doing. It's extremely annoying and another of my pet peeves when it comes to a horses' manners. They should not be stomping and stepping all over you or trying to walk off when you're grooming, saddling, etc. It's not only annoying but it can be really painful when they step on you. If they're flinging their head all around in your space, or trying to gallop off as soon as your foot hits the stirrup, it can even be dangerous. Do your best to break this bad habit.

First of all, make sure you're being fair to the horse. Is the horse legitimately afraid of something? If so, be fair and help the horse deal with his fear. John Lyons, one of my favorite trainers, says it something like this: We can't teach the horse not to be afraid but we can teach him how to act when he is afraid.

If they're not afraid, then how old is the horse, what breed is it and how long are you expecting them to stand? Are you being reasonable? If a yearling has been in a stall all night, chances are they're going to be dancing around and ready to go! You and I would, wouldn't we?

Keep the horses' breed in mind. If you're dealing with a naturally high-spirited breed such as a Thoroughbred, (especially a young one!), put them in a paddock or someplace where they can blow off some steam for a few minutes before asking them to stand still for more than a couple of minutes. If you don't have a paddock, the second best thing you can do is lunge them for a few minutes and let them burn off some of that pent up energy before you ask them to stand while you put a gazillion of those tiny rubber bands in their mane.

I worked at a barn once that had about thirty of a wide variety of horses and ponies, everything from trail mutts and lesson horses to show ponies to retired race horses. When I would get Sylvia (a retired Thoroughbred race horse) out of her stall, I prayed that not one leaf would fly by or else I knew my shoulder was sure to be dislocated. It was like trying to hold on to a rope attached to the NASA space shuttle. At the opposite end of the spectrum, I absolutely loved getting out sweet Jack, a husky, bomb-proof Quarter Horse used for lessons. The trash truck came by one day and picked up a large metal dumpster and dropped it not far from us. I thought my eardrum had split and my heart was gonna stop (and perhaps Sylvia had just created a sonic boom when she tore off galloping across the pasture) but Jackie reached down to grab a snack and waited until he had grass sticking out of both sides of his mouth before bothering to raise his head to casually look around and see what all the ruckus was about. So keep your horses' breed, age and spirit in mind and make sure that you're making reasonable requests of your horse.

Another question: Has the horse had sufficient training to understand when they're supposed to stand still? Have they been taught the command "stand"? Do they know what it means? If they haven't been taught, then it would be silly to expect them to do it and even sillier and unfair to punish them if they don't.

Also, to be more successful in training, I think a horse needs to learn the patience needed to stand quietly while haltered and tied and the only way for the horse to learn this patience is to do it. Now, of course, I'm not talking about tying your horse up and going back in the house to watch the movie "Titanic". That's not only kinda mean, I don't think horses should be left unattended for long periods while haltered and tied. Too many get caught in the rope and they can panic and thrash. They can hurt themselves or develop a phobia about being tied which will totally defeat your purpose and is a royal pain to help a horse get over. (If a horse gets a phobia about being tied, you're in a for a very long battle in teaching that horse that it's okay to ever be tied again). If they don't get a phobia, almost all horses who get tangled in the rope get at least terrible rope burns and many horses have died because they hung themselves. So, don't leave them tied for hours unattended but haltering and tying them for an hour or so while you clean their stall, tidy the barn, oil some tack or whatever else you need to do is good for developing patience in a horse.

If the horse doesn't understand what the command "stand" means, then go back to the basics and teach them to "stand". I'm assuming they already know the commands "Walk" and "Whoa". So, with their halter and lead rope on, give the command "walk" and walk them around for a few paces or a minute or so. Next, give the command "whoa" and stop walking and praise them when they stop. Next, give the command "stand" and take a step away from your horse. If they start to move with you, give a slight tug backwards on the lead rope and give the command "stand". Hold a crop, lunge whip or your flat hand up in front of their face if you have to, something that tells the horse "stop moving". Do this until you can get them to stop and praise them lavishly if they stand still for even just a second. Continue to do this for about 5 minutes. Put the horse away or continue doing what you were doing to give the horse a break and let them think on what they've learned. Give them maybe fifteen or thirty minutes or an hour , giving it a little time to sink in. You can work on this several times a day, each time increasing the amount of time you work with the horse. Gradually, over a period of several days, expect the horse to stand for longer and longer periods of time. Horses are smart. They should get it quite soon, usually in just a day or two. And once they get it, reinforce it. Stay in communication with your horse. They like hearing your "nice" voice. Most horses enjoy pleasing you. Be consistant and reward your horse every time they do what you want and they will quickly make the connection of verbal cues and that "stand" means "stop moving!"

Once they understand the new word or vocal cue, they won't forget it. Once they learn something, you can skip a month without giving them the cue and when you give it to them the next time, they will remember. So, if you're absolutely sure they've got it and they don't do what you ask, then you know that they're just being disobedient.

If a horse won't stand still, punishment is quite easy. The philosophy is this: When you're working with your horse, their attention should be on you. Their attention should not be on everything going on around except you. A horse should always know that you are in charge. They don't get to make the decisions. If they want to move, they move on your terms, not theirs. If they want to move, make them really move! Using your halter and lead rope or bridle, (whatever is on the horse), hold them with one hand, drive them with the ends of the rope or reins in the other hand and make them move quickly in tight circles around you, (about 6 feet in diameter, not wide circles like lunging). Don't beat the horse, don't terrify the horse, just get their attention. Their eyes should be alert, their ears forward and their attention should quickly switch to being on you instead of whatever was making them fidget around in the first place. Moving in tight circles like that is hard on a horses' legs and hindquarters and they will begin to cramp up in a short amount of time. A few circles like this and standing still will suddenly seem like a really great idea to the horse. They will "ask" you if they can stop moving by licking their lips, which is a sign of submission. When you see that little licking of the lips, then stop. It may take three circles, it may take twenty but move that horse until standing still sounds like a really good idea.

With some horses, you may only have to do this once or twice. With other horses you may have to do it twenty times and with a real flighty horse, you may have to do it every single time you're ready for them to stand still but it's the most effective technique I've seen for a horse that won't stand. Be consistant. Always be consistant in all of your discipline (and rewards) and the chances are extremely high that you will be very successful in ground training your horse to behave in a way that makes spending time with your horse much more enjoyable.

My philosophy on horse training

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 07 Aug 2008 21:06:00 +0000

Before I begin giving training advice, I thought it would be a good idea to share my philosophies on training. Every horse owner I've ever met views, approaches and trains a horse a little differently. It seems to me that peoples' ideas on horse training are quite similiar to religion, meaning that even those who hold to the same philosophy don't always agree on every little detail and people can get quite passionate on their beliefs! Just for the record and in case you're interested, here are a few of my beliefs and practices.

There is no one way that is the best way to train a horse and there is no one technique that will work on every single horse, every time. What may work well on one horse may have little to no effect on another. Just when you think you have horse training all figured out, another horse will come along that will challenge everything you've ever learned and prove you're wrong in many areas and you're sometimes back to square one. Just as people have different personalities with different ways of thinking and looking at things, so do horses. You have to approach every horse as a unique personality and try different methods or "tricks" with each horse until you find what works.

Speaking of methods or tricks, this is a good place to say that you do not need a lot of special gear or equipment to train a horse. There are certain basic things that will make training easier and quicker, such as a halter, a lunge line, a baton (or flag) and a round pen but if you had to, you could train a horse to do what you want with nothing more than a rope and a long stick, (to use as an extension of your arm, or a driver like a lunge whip, not as a weapon)

I start with what I and others have had the most success with and go from there. If it doesn't work, then I consider it my responsibility to get into that horses' head and find out what he or she needs from me to understand what it is that I'm asking them to do.

I use primarily natural horsemanship training techniques that I've learned from varied sources over many years with a dash of Native American training thrown in.

I'm also really big into horse language, the way horses communicate with one another. I find it incredibly rewarding to know what a horse is saying to me by the carriage of the head, the movement of the mouth or the flick of an ear. It's equally, (if not more), fascinating to sit and silently watch a herd of horses interact and communicate with one another with just body language and rarely a sound. Their ways of dealing with one another are so simple yet their communication is so intricate and complex and I know I still have much to learn. It's an amazing experience to get a glimpse into their world and watch how they interact with one another. It's definitely one of my favorite things to do and I believe that learning to communicate with the horse in their language is a major factor in how successful you will be in training.

And I might as well admit it now: generally, I'm a sap...yep that's right, a big sappy mush. I love on horses, hug them and give them kisses. I baby talk them and nuzzle their velvet muzzles. I love to smell their warm, hay scented breath. Sometimes, (usually when no one is looking) I bury my face in their manes, neck or withers and fill my nostrils with their wonderful horsey scent. I think they are the most beautiful, graceful, magnificent creatures on the planet and most of the time, I am in awe of them....and yet I don't tolerate any nonsense or bad behavior for one single second!

This is my horse training philosophy in a nutshell: Love them to pieces when they're good but quickly, firmly and fairly discipline them when they're not.

I'm really passionate when it comes to ground manners. I've seen a countless number of people who never teach their horse basic respect and ground manners. It absolutely blows my mind to see people who allow the the horse do whatever the horse wants to do and then make the excuse: "Well, that's just the way he is." To that, I say "Horsefeathers"! Any horse and I will repeat: Any horse can (and should) be taught manners! Needless to say, a horse is a very large and extremely powerful animal. Even the most gentle, well mannered horse can severely hurt you, even when they're not meaning to. A 12 year old girl whom I knew very well was killed a couple of years ago in the blink of an eye. It was no ones' fault. That type of danger is just the nature of working with such large and powerful animals. While there is no foolproof guarantee that you can keep yourself safe 100% of the time, I believe there are certain things you can insist on that will improve your level of safety. #1 is that you absolutely must demand respect, for you and for that 2 to 3 feet around you, whether you like to call it your space, your box or your bubble. Now, as I said before, I love to cuddle with a horse and I never want them to be afraid of me or afraid to be close to me but they cannot clumsily fumble and step all over me and they can't force or intimidate their way into my bubble. When they come into my space, they must approach me as they would a lead or alpha mare - they must be paying attention and they must either ask politely or move in respectfully...not cautiously or fearfully but respectfully. There's a difference.

I firmly believe in the 3 second rule: When they misbehave, you have 3 seconds to let them know what is unacceptable. If you're teaching them something new and they do what you expect, you have 3 seconds to praise them and let them know they are on the right track.

I will never advise you to do anything that will make a horse fear you, only respect you. In most cases, you can effectively discipline a horse by simply making him think you're going to kill him without actually doing anything directly to the horse or anything that will hurt the horse. Also, there are several instances in which you can discipline a horse in a way that he doesn't know he's been disciplined. These are my favorite techniques. Using the nail for a nipping or biting horse is a good example (more on that in another post) In that situation, the horse thinks he has done something to himself. He doesn't realize that you have done anything to him and therefore, he has no reason to get headshy or afraid of getting smacked. Now, I'll say here that I have no problem with a firm smack now and then. It doesn't hurt the horse, in fact, you're much more likely to hurt your hand than you are the horse. A firm smack is often necessary when dealing with horses, especially if a situation occurs and you have nothing else to protect yourself or get your point across. Because of the 3 second rule and the way a horse thinks, you cannot take the time to go find a crop or other instrument for discipline. By the time you get what you went for, too much time has passed, the horse won't have a clue why you're disciplining them and the training moment is lost, so you have to issue a quick, firm smack right then on the spot when they commit the offense. You should always try to avoid hitting the horse in the face or head if possible. If you're being attacked, of course you're going to react accordingly and you will have to do whatever you have to do in order to protect yourself but hopefully those instances will be very rare. Whatever the case, a horse should never be beaten or abused. A horse should never be humiliated or belittled. They are majestic creatures that deserve respect, too. Mankind would have never advanced in the manner and speed in which he did had it not been for the strength and speed of the horse.

Read this snippet by Charles Chenevix Trench in A History of Horsemanship and see if it gives you goosebumps: 'God found it good to bestow on man a supreme mark of His favor, and so He created the horse...Man, encompassed by the elements which conspired to destroy him, would have been a slave, had not the horse made him king.'

How true it is! Imagine how the history books would have to be rewritten if we removed the horse from our past! The least we can do is show them some respect and allow them to keep their pride and beautiful spirit.

It is my desire that the relationship between horse and humans should always be one of mutual respect.

Ok, with that being said, let's talk some training!

How to stop nipping or biting

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 07 Aug 2008 20:13:00 +0000

A horse that nips or bites can be an annoying pest but don't feel bad or discouraged because it's actually a pretty common behavior in horses. The great news is: for most horses it's also usually pretty easy to fix.

When I was 14 years old, I bought a two year old Paint stud colt for $75 dollars. His mother was a big, chunky registered bay Quarter Horse mare and his father was a little paint pony. How that happened, I don't know but he came out as a chestnut and white paint with a black mane and tail and black stockings like a bay. I'm not exaggerating when I say he was breathtakingly beautiful. I was really into Native American Indians by that time and he looked like a painted war pony so I named him Red Cloud, after the famous Sioux Indian chief. An older lady sold him to me so cheap not only because he was of mixed breeding but also because he had never been handled, haltered or trained in any way! He had only been fed by people and nothing more. (Yeah, I was a crazy kid and thankfully, my dad didn't know anything at all about horses or I probably would have never owned Red Cloud and therefore would have never gotten all of that great experience in handling horses! Thanks Dad!)

Considering that he had never been handled, Red Could was actually a pretty nice guy but he was a biter from day one. I couldn't get close to him without him biting at me. Using the technique I'm about to share with you, I broke his biting habit in two days and he never bit me again. In fact, when I sold him a year and half later, he was still a stud but he was so sweet and gentle that you could do anything you wanted to: on, under and around him and an old farmer bought him from me as a present to his 3 year old grandson. That was 30 years ago. Since then, I've used the technique on other horses and I've given the advice to other people and the technique has stopped every single horse from biting.

Now when I talk about a biter, I'm not talking about a horse that is viciously trying to attack you! Unless you are a professional, do not go into a closed area such as a stall or corral with a horse that is violently and deliberately trying to hurt you. That horse has issues that probably can't be corrected by reading a book or webpage. Consult a professional that can come work directly with that type of horse. What I'm talking about is a generally well adjusted horse that just has a nipping problem.

Now there are some folks who will tell you that you should never hand feed your horse treats because it teaches them to nip. I totally disagree with that philosophy. Go ahead and give your horse treats if that's what you want to do. I have always given all horses I've been around treats by hand and yes, I have had a nipper or two but I've also quickly and easily broken that behavior and continued to hand feed the horse and have them never nip again. I will agree that hand feeding can teach a horse to nip (especially a young horse) but I also think it's a good opportunity for your horse to learn what is good to do and what is not. Horses are smarter than some give them credit for. They absolutely can learn that they can have treats but biting or nipping is just not the thing they need to be doing (and not something they will want to continue doing)

In the case of a mild biter or nipper, you can usually cure the problem within just a couple of days. Carry a thin, sharp object such as a nail or toothpick in your pocket or hand for a few days whenever you're going to be around the horse. Now before you freak out on me, we're not going to stab at the horse it. The objective is not to draw blood or create a wound. We're talking about a slight pinprick, something along the lines of being stuck by a thorn or a briar and you're not even going to prick the horse with it. You're going to allow him (or her) to prick themselves. Every time you get near the horse, be nonchalent and go about your normal routine but have the nail or toothpick ready in your hand with the pointed end facing out. Hold it in your hand so that it's hidden, with just the tip sticking out maybe a quarter of an inch. When the horse reaches for your hand to nip, hold the object so he runs his muzzle into it. You may have to slightly move your hand a little bit to "help" the horse prick himself with it but the objective is to try not to move your hand so that the horse doesn't realize that you're doing it to him. You want the horse to think they've hurt themselves. (Yeah, this really does work). When the horse gets pricked a few times, especially in the sensitive lips or muzzle, they think something along the lines of, "Wow, that hurt...that hurt me! That's not what I had in mind!" or "I don't think I'm gonna do that anymore." They basically learn that the action of biting hurts them. It usually only takes a few good pricks with the sharp object for them to stop nipping. It's exactly the same concept as a horse touching an electric fence or us grabbing a hot skillet without an oven mitt - - we usually only have to do it a couple of times and we learn not to do that anymore. No one, not even horses, are going to continue to do something that is painful to them.

What is rain rot?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Fri, 01 Aug 2008 14:29:00 +0000

Rain rot is also known as rain scald.

Now, before I explain what it is, I have to say this, which you may get a chuckle out of. I'm quite passionate about rain rot. Ha! That probably sounds pretty silly but it's true, partly because it profoundly affected one of our horses but also because when it did and I needed information on it, it seemed no two people and no two vet manuals said the same things. It was so confusing and frustrating that I wanted to scream. I didn't know where to get a straight answer, so I read everything I could get my hands on, asked a lot of questions of a lot of people and then experimented until I found what worked. Now I know that it doesn't have to be that complicated! I'm going to try to spare you that frustration and share what I've learned and try to help make some sense of it.

For years, I've been around many horses that had rain rot in varying degrees of severity. Our current horse, Shadow (a.k.a. Babebay) came to us at 5 months old with the worst case of rain rot that I've ever seen, so I've gotten quite an up close and personal education on the matter. Below is a picture of our little "Babebay" with a completely bald and raw back (in January!) that is both sickening and heartbreaking.

Keep in mind...this is a worst case scenario. Your horse doesn't have to look like this in order to have rain rot. Most rain rot is just little bumps and little tufts of hair. He had terrible rain rot under a heavy winter coat and I had no idea just how bad it was until I treated it and all of those tufts of hair sloughed off, taking all of his hair with it!

Here he is awhile later with hair growing back.

And a little later - hair all back! :D

Through what I've heard, some say it's a fungus and some say it's a bacteria. It is an infection of the skin, caused by a bacteria called Dermatophilus congolensis. If you're like I was, you probably don't really care too much what it's called, you just want it gone! It's ugly and disgusting but more importantly: it is an infection which often goes unnoticed and therefore untreated for what can be a long period of time. A secondary staph infection is very common with rain rot. I don't know about you but just the word "staph" is very scary to me. Also, as you can imagine, long term, untreated infections can really take away from the health, condition and overall well-being of your horse, which will also affect their mood and performance.

The bacterial infection causes what are basically sores on the horses' skin.. The sores are typically across the back, (wouldn't you know it - in the saddle area?), across the hindquarters and the neck. They can appear on the back legs as well but are more common on the larger parts of the upper body. These sores can be so small that they're barely noticeable or as large as an inch in diameter. These sores leak puss (how many ways can you say Ewww?), which sticks to the horses' hair, dries up and creates little hard, stiff, matted tufts of hair. When you scratch or brush your horse, the tufts of hair come off, usually bringing the scab with it. This leaves a bare spot of skin, which can be gray and dry or pink and raw looking. The longer the hair, the bigger the scab and matts of hair, therefore the bigger the bare spot is when the tuft falls off or gets plucked out.

Now, I've read things that say something like: 'studies have shown it is not itchy, painful or irritating to the horse' and on that...well, sorry folks but I have to say "horsefeathers"! A horse can sense the smallest fly landing on it's skin. How much more can their sensitive skin detect the irritation and the scabs? Maybe the presence of the bacteria on the skin isn't painful or irritating but I know that once a horse has rain rot that has developed into scabs, it is most definitely annoying! and it hurts when those scabs and matts of hair come off! Depending on how many scabs there are and how big they are, when you brush or curry your horse, it will flinch, jerk, maybe swing its head around or try to move away from you. I think it's pretty much common sense if you think about it - if your scalp was covered in scabs, don't you think it would be nonstop irritating and then painful when you tried to brush your hair? So, it's disgusting and painful and rain rot is a good term for it! It's a "rotten" little bug so let's figure out how to kill it!

Some say it can be gotten rid of and some people who have had it get in their barns or herds say that you can never get rid of it. Right now, Shadow shows no signs of rain rot and so I'm holding to the faith that you CAN get rid of it. Since the bacteria that causes rain rot can lie dormant on the skin for weeks (or months) before creating another outbreak, I know that rain rot is an incredibly stubborn problem and in order to get rid of it, you have to be serious about it and aggressive and diligent in your methods. The more horses that are involved, the more difficult it's going to be, without a doubt. I also have to say here that probably the only reason I was successful in getting rid of Shadows' rain rot is because we removed him from the large herd he used to be a part of, in which several horses had rain rot. Those horses weren't ours and I had no control over their treatment. If Shadow was still a part of that herd, I'm sure he would still have rain rot. So, you have to either be able to treat them all and if that's not possible, consider removing your horse.

The bacteria that causes rain rot thrives in wet conditions but contrary to what some say, your horse does NOT have to stand out in the rain for long periods of time in order to get it. Rain rot can appear in simply hot and humid areas, so those of us in the hot, muggy South are much more likely to see it than someone living in a hot, dry area out West.

Rain rot usually starts in hot months but absolutely can continue to live and thrive on your horses skin all throughout the cold winter months if it's not dealt with. It doesn't go away just because the hot, humid summer is over and your horse now has a thick winter coat. The bacteria and the infection are still there (and the sores and scabs).

Because it's a bacteria, rain rot thrives where there is little oxygen, much like the bacteria that causes thrush in hooves or how tetanus gets started in a wound that has closed over.

Rain rot gets a hold when the bacteria is trapped on the horses' skin and is then covered by dirt and loose hair and then moisture is added. (This moisture can come from the sweat of the horse, heavy humidity in the air or rainfall). This layer of dirt, hair and moisture acts as an almost airtight "blanket" lying on top, sealing the bacteria and moisture onto the horses
skin and sealing the air out! It's no wonder bacteria grows! This "blanket" of dirt and hair create the perfect breeding ground for rain rot to get started and explode in growth.

So - - These last two things tell you right away that the thing you can do to help prevent it (and treat it) is to keep that dirt and loose hair curried and groomed out. In fact, I'd go so far as to say that a good brisk curry and brushing every day is the #1 most important thing you can do in the battle against rain rot. Keep your horse clean enough so that air can get to your horses' skin and the chances of getting rain rot are much slimmer and the chance of clearing out a current case of rain rot is substantially better.

During the warm months, don't put a blanket on your horse when it's raining. By doing so, you're contributing to cutting off the air supply to the horses skin and holding in the heat and moisture - a perfect breeding ground for rain rot.

Rain rot is highly contagious and easily spread from horse to horse. It can be spread by sharing brushes or tack but it can also be transmitted by the horses just sharing space in which they're going to be touching or rubbing against one another. Needless to say, this means that if one has rain rot, chances are they are all carrying the bacteria and therefore all of the horses should be treated. If you are in a boarding situation where you cannot control the treatment of the other horses, then I know from experience that you're going to have an extremely difficult time getting rid of it. In that type of situation, you may never fully get rid of it but you can help keep it down so the horse doesn't continually have scabbing. If you can't do anything else in a barn sharing situation, don't share brushes and tack.

I also know from personal experience that some horses are much more prone to get rain rot than others. In a herd of 30 horses, one or two may get a terrible case of it that covers a large part of their body (and can seem almost impossible to get rid of), 5 may have one or two small spots of it that never grow (and never go away either), 1 or 2 may get a spot of it, (which goes away as quickly as it came), and the other 20 or so horses may never show any signs of it at all! I don't know if this is because of something as complicated as genetics or the immune system or something as simple as different amounts of natural oils in each horses' skin. I consider it just like some people are more susceptible to sinus infections or getting poison ivy on their skin than others and likewise, all horses' are different, too.

If you think (or know) your horse has rain rot, here is what I'd advise you do:

First, I highly recommend you call a vet. The vet will need to determine that it is indeed rain rot and not ringworm, which looks quite similar but is a fungus. A vet also needs to determine if the horse needs antibiotics, which they most likely will and I think is a good way to get started in getting rid of the rain rot. Notice I said get started in killing rain rot. Penicillin and other antibiotics are extremely effective at killing the rain rot but the problem is that even though they will clear up the rain rot on your horse, for awhile, that bacteria is still living and thriving on most everything in your barn: your tack, your brushes, your blankets and is just waiting to be redeposited on your horse, where it will cause another outbreak on your horse just as soon as the antibiotics have run their course.

I think penicillin or other antibiotics are fantastic to quickly get the infection and scabs to go away on your horse but you can't rely on antibiotics on a regular basis. I'd use them once, maybe twice but I firmly believe that overuse of antibiotics in any animal (including people), suppress the immune system and in the long run cause more harm than good. I definitely wouldn't use antibiotics any more often than once a year unless there is a very serious or life threatening situation that absolutely requires antibiotics.

As soon as the vet starts your horse on antibiotics, wash all of your saddle pads and blankets or sheets in warm, soapy, water. (I throw them in the washing machine) If your items are white, add a cup of bleach to the water. If your items include colors that you don't want to bleach, (or you don't like bleach) add a cup of vinegar. Vinegar kills bacteria, too. (White or apple cider vinegar will do)

Thoroughly curry and brush your horse and then wash and sterilize all of your grooming supplies. Yep, all of it. Fill a large bucket with hot, soapy water and add a cup of bleach or vinegar and just chuck it all in there and allow it to soak for 5 or 10 minutes. Rinse it well and lay it all out to air dry.

It's important to remove the scabs from the horses' skin so you can also remove the puss and surface infection. You can just brush and pick them off but your horse may not appreciate it. The easiest and least painful way to remove the scabs is to use Shapley's product M-T-G (which stands for Mane & Tail Groom). Be warned, it stinks a little bit and it is greasy but it's great stuff! The oils in M-T-G softens the scabs, makes them slid off easily and it also soothes the horses skin. Now, I need to warn you that when the scab comes off, all of the hair attached to that scab comes off, too so it is possible that your horse will have a bald spot every place there was a scab. If there are just a few scabs, no worries. But if there are a lot of scabs, then you're likely to have quite a bald horse. The good news is that once all of the scabs are removed, the condition will heal much faster. More good news is that M-T-G is famous for helping hair to regrow quickly, so you should see new hair growing in within just a few days.

For the first 2 or 3 days of your horse being on antibiotics, I would recommend not grooming them and not saddling up and riding them if possible. Not only will this give the raw areas time to heal, it will allow the antibiotics time to kill off the bacteria so you don't reinfect all of your clean tack and grooming supplies which would totally defeat the purpose of all of that disinfecting work. If you must groom or tack up, then I highly recommend that you wash everything that touched your horses' skin that day - again. Yeah, it's a pain but I think it's necessary in order to be sure you're killing off all of the bacteria possible.

After the first 2 or 3 days, you can then go into daily currying and brushing. It is extremely important to get rid of the loose hair and dirt and allowing air to get to the horses' skin. Don't drive yourself nuts and wear your arms out brushing one horse, trying to get every speck of dirt off of them. Just a brisk curry and brushing will do.

Also after the first 2 or 3 days, you will want to bathe your horse and then maintain weekly bathing until the rain rot is healed. Bathe them weekly for as long as it takes and about 6 weeks should do it, maybe a little less, maybe more. You can buy and use a antimicrobial shampoo but I know a homemade shampoo consisting of liquid Ivory dish soap and iodine works just as well, if not better! (and it's cheaper!) I've included the recipe for this shampoo and directions for bathing in another post.

Also weekly, (preferably around the same that you bathe your horse), you will want to sterilize everything that regularly comes in direct contact with the horses' skin: brushes, combs and all grooming supplies, saddle pads, blankets, fly sheets, etc. Wash them as described earlier.

I know it sounds like a lot but honestly, once you "get into the groove" of things and get yourself a routine down, it's really not that bad. (Unless of course, you own 10 horses and if that's the case, you have my sympathies for all of the washing and shampooing you're going to be doing.) I recommend that as you're heading out the door to go shampoo your horse, throw a load in the washing machine, and fill up a bucket of your hot, sudsy bleach or vinegar water and toss in only the brushes and things that have touched your horse in the last week. Once you've finished bathing your horse, you already have the hose out, so rinse out your grooming items and lay them out to dry.

Hey! look at the bright side! I suggest weekly. A lot of resources say you must bathe your horse and wash your equipment every day for a week! You can do that if you want but with using antibiotics and M-T-G and currying and brushing your horse every day, I really don't think it's necessary.

Ok, I know that was a lot of information so

Here's a recap:

Call a vet (is it rain rot or ringworm and are antibiotics necessary?)
Begin antibiotics (if prescribed)
Wash all of your pads, blankets, sheets and grooming supplies
Apply a product such as M-T-G to remove the scab, soothe the horses' skin and begin healing
Curry and brush your horse daily
Bathe your horse weekly
Wash all of your gear weekly and use only clean items on your freshly bathed horse.

I firmly believe that if you follow this regime, you can defeat rain rot! If you have other suggestions or a success story on how you beat rain rot, I'd love to hear it! Scroll down to the "About Me" section and click on "View my complete profile" to send me an email!

Best of luck!

RECIPE: Rain Rot Treatment/Shampoo

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 31 Jul 2008 21:44:00 +0000

Since there are only 2 ingredients and one of them is soap, I felt strange calling this a "recipe" but didn't know how else to label it so you could find it! :D

Oh and here's a little history for ya: There was a period of time when I had to ask and keep asking someone else how to make it and then I kept forgetting it before I could get home to make it! For some strange reason I had a real brain block on the measurements. I knew it was a 2-to-1 ratio, (in other words, twice as much of one ingredient as the other) but I just could not remember which ingredient you used twice the amount of! Yeah, this simple little recipe really made me feel like Ms. Bright Bulb! ;D

So...since I had such a hard time remembering it and could never find where I had written it down, I decided to include it in my recipes for others like me who may suffer from momentary lapses in memory or brain blockages! (There are others out there like me, right?) ;D

Okee-dokee...well, anyhoo....here's how you make it:

6 ounces of liquid Ivory dish soap
3 ounces of Iodine - (10% Povidone-Iodine Solution. Available at most equine supply stores)

I mix this up in the bottle that the Ivory dish soap comes in.

To use:

Thoroughly wet down your horse
Using a bath mit or "scrubby" plastic curry, lather the mixture (full strength) onto your horse, starting at the back of the ears, working it through the mane and working your way down and across their body to really work it into their tail, being sure not to forget their feet and under their belly. You do not want it getting into their eyes, so don't wash the horses' head or face with it.
Once the horse is completely covered, allow the mixture to sit on the horses' skin for about 5 minutes
Rinse well (and I would advise to rinse very well)

Your horse will be squeaky clean and super shiny! Bathe your horse with this mixture once a week for as long as it takes. I would recommend about 6 weeks but it could take up to 12 weeks.

Other helpful tips:

On light colored horses, do a "stain test" first, either on their belly or a small area on a fetlock or some small or hidden area. I know this is safe on chestnuts, bays, browns or blacks but it is possible that the iodine may temporarily stain the hair of ligher colored horses. If you really want to get rid of the rain rot and you don't mind your palomino being a weird shade of rusty "iodine-a-mino", then skip the stain test and get to shampooing!
Either before you bathe your horse or while you're bathing, wash or soak anything that normally comes in contact with your horses' skin such as saddle pads, blankets or sheets, ALL of your brushes, combs, curry combs, etc in soapy bleach water and this part is very important: Use only the newly cleaned equipment on the horse after you've bathed them in the iodine solution. This may sound like a pain, (and it can be) but once you get yourself "in the groove" and find little ways to save time, it's really not bad and it's so worth it to get rid of the rain rot! Before you head out the door to bathe your horse, you can just throw your blankets in the washing machine and toss all of your grooming supplies in a bucket of soapy bleach water and let them soak or wash while you're bathing. When you're finished bathing your horse, you have the hose out already, so just rinse out your grooming supplies and lay them out to dry.
You must ALWAYS sterilize all of your grooming equipment around the same time as you bath your horse so that you don't reinfect your clean (sanitized) horse with the rain rot bacteria that is living in your brushes and blankets.
Don't bathe your horse in this mixture any more often than once a week. Using it more frequently than that could really dry out your horses' skin and cause irriation.
Don't buy those tiny, little bottles of iodine from the drug store or supermarket. It will cost you a small fortune to buy enough bottles and that kind isn't really strong enough anyway. I buy the 10% Povidone-Iodine Solution, made by Horse Health Products, (which is a division of Farnam). A vet or equine supply store should have it and the large 32 ounce bottle only costs about $10 bucks.

As long as you keep up the cleaning and grooming of your horse and he or she is not constantly in contact with other horses' who have rain rot, using this mixture and these methods should get rid of it!

RECIPE: Fly Trap Attractant

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 30 Jul 2008 20:00:00 +0000

I love it when I can find recipes to make a natural product that is cheaper than commercially bought products. However, there are few things in this world that I despise more than annoying, disease-carrying flies and I have never made or found a better fly trap than the Rescue Fly Traps. If you hang them outside your barn in the sun, these traps actually work the way they claim and I absolutely love 'em! Depending on how bad your fly population is, in the first week of hanging it, it will trap hundreds, if not thousands of dead flies! Also, if you decide to buy them, go for the disposable plastic bag type. For some reason, the plastic bag type works far, FAR better than their new, reusable, hard plastic jar. For me personally, I'd rather just fork out the $3.99 for a good product that works really well and is clean and easy to dispose of. (Once that fly trap is full of dead flies, I don't want to touch it, much less have to empty it!)

Ok, if I've sold you on one of my favorite horse products in the world :D here is a picture of what it looks like and a direct link where you can purchase it:

Now, if you would rather make your own fly traps, here is a recipe for the attractant:

3 cups of water
1/3 cup of sugar
1/4 cup of white vinegar

Mix all ingredients together until the sugar is completely dissolved.

You can use several things to make the actual trap. A coffee can with a plastic lid, a heavy duty zip lock plastic bag or a glass jar. Just poke some holes in either the lid or the bag that are large enough for the flies to fit in, put in the attractant and place or hang the trap where flies are a problem. The flies crawl in and most drown in the attractant or can't find their way out.

Put the trap outside where it will be in the sun and make sure you place the trap out of the reach of the horses, especially if you're using the glass jar.

RECIPE: Bring 'em Running Bran Mash

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Wed, 30 Jul 2008 01:09:00 +0000

Here is a great recipe for a nutritious bran mash that your horse is sure to love.

2 Quarts of wheat or rice bran (8 cups)
1 cup of Quaker oats (or any rolled oats)
3/4 cup of applesauce
1-1/2 cup of hot water

Mix all ingredients together until the bran and oats are well moistened.

ADD-INS FOR VARIETY:

You can add a couple of tablespoons of honey or molasses for a little added sweetness;
For a crunchy surprise, try adding about a cup full of chopped apples or carrots, raisins, pears (or any of your horses' favorite fruit or veggie OR toss a tad bit of several different things in there! Get creative! Your horse will love it!);
For extra nutritional benefits, you can add a couple of tablespoons of oil
You can also add a little beet pulp (make sure it soaks for a few minutes in the mash before giving it to your horse)

This probably goes without saying but I have to say it anyway.... :D When making hot bran mash, always make sure it's cooled a little before giving it to your horse so it doesn't burn his or her mouth. :D

And just like we humans with our comfort food, remember that too much is not a good thing. Because of the high phosporus content (that can throw off a horses' calcium levels) you shouldn't feed a bran mash any more often than once a week.

Apple Cider Vinegar For Your Horses' Health

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 23:55:00 +0000

I began researching and getting into natural products in the early 90's. I found out back then that apple cider vinegar has a countless number of great uses for home and health.

I recently found an awesome website on apple cider vinegar, in particular this page that is loaded with uses for your horses' health! You can use apple cider vinegar for everything from a cooling linament, a nutritional supplement, a hoof care product, a cure for some skin conditions, a natural fly spray and more!

This page is definitely worth checking out! http://www.apple-cider-vinegar-benefits.com/horse-care.html You will be amazed at what all you can do with apple cider vinegar and SAFELY! with no dangerous chemicals!

Treat Recipe: Hor-Sa-Mores

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 21:28:00 +0000

I've had a request for recipes (thanks Amelia!), so I'll be searching through all of my old papers and books and post some recipes for treats and mash as well as natural products and remedies.

Your horse will definitely ask for "sa-more" of these delicious and healthy treats! You may even want to eat some yourself. Go ahead! Have one! They're yummy and safe for you to eat, too! :D

2 cups Quaker Oats (or any rolled oats)
3/4 cup of unsweetened apple juice (if you don't have apple juice, substitute applesauce!)
2 medium apples, diced
1/2 cup raisins
1/2 cup of raw, shelled sunflower seeds (Sidenote: NEVER substitute peanuts. Horses can't digest them.)
2 Tablespoons of honey or molasses
1 cup of wheat bran (can use rice bran)

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Mix all ingredients together in a large bowl.

Using a tablespoon, drop balls of "dough" onto an ungreased cookie sheet about 2 inches apart.

Bake for 15-20 minutes or until lightly browned. Cool completely before giving to your horse and place the rest in an airtight container for storage. (I keep them in the fridge)

HANDY TIP: You can also wrap this dough in plastic wrap (like Saran Wrap), roll it on the counter until it's in a roll like refrigerated cookie dough and partially freeze it. It will be so easy to cut into "cookies"!

Treat Recipe: "Nicker"doodles

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 20:37:00 +0000

Here's an easy recipe for yummy horse cookies. It doesn't take much time and you probably have all of the necessary ingredients in your kitchen!

3 cups of Quaker Oats (the original, long-cooking kind is the best, but you can use the instant or 1 minute kind if that's all you have)
1 large carrot, shredded (can substitute 1 large apple, diced)
1/2 cup of applesauce
1/4 cup of honey
1/4 cup of oil

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

In a medium bowl, blend together the applesauce, honey and oil and set it aside.

In a large bowl, mix the oats and shredded carrot (or apple) together. Fold in the applesauce, honey and oil mixture and continue stirring until it is all blended well together.

Roll into small cookies or balls, about 1 inch in diameter. (If too sticky, add a few more oats. If too dry to stick together, add just a little more oil.)

Place on a cookie sheet and bake at 325 degrees for 10 - 12 minutes.

Remove from oven and let cool completely before giving to your horse. Place remaining cooled cookies in a ziplock plastic bag for storage.

I know we all want to spoil our babies but remember that too much sugar is really bad for a horse. A couple of these treats a day is plenty and they'll love it! :D

HANDY TIP: If this is too sticky and messy to roll it with your hands, try this: Put the dough in a large sheet of plastic wrap (like Saran Wrap), roll it up tightly. Using both hands, press lightly and roll it on your counter top, into a roll (like refrigerated cookie dough) and then partially freeze it! It will cut off so easily!

How do you stop a horse from bolting their feed?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Thu, 17 Jul 2008 07:56:00 +0000

"Bolting" of feed means the horse is eating their grain much too fast. Bolting increases the chance that the feed won't be properly chewed and digested, (which can mean the horse won't be getting all of the nutrients from their feed) and it's unnerving and frustrating because of the danger that it may cause choking or colic.

There are many different reasons why a horse may bolt their feed. The most common reason is competition with barn or pasture mates (or a horse that has had to compete for their feed in the past). Help your horse relax by making sure they don't have to fight to eat and that they're not stealing one anothers' food. Separate horses at feeding time and make sure each one has their own feeding dish.

If you've done that and they're still eating too fast, there are several other things you can do to make them slow down and enjoy their feed a little longer:

Place a few smooth stones in their feed dish so they have to nudge around the stones to get the grain (Make sure the stones don't have any sharp or pointed edges that the horse will poke themselves with and that the stones are large enough so the horse doesn't pick them up in their mouth. Remember that you want eating to be a pleasurable experience for the horse and the object is just to slow the horse down by making them nudge around the stones to get to the grain, not to make them put the stones in their mouth). If done correctly, this is a very safe and effective technique.
In a solid feed rack, (not a slatted one) scatter the grain on top of their hay ration;
Put their grain in a deep feeding dish and then cover with chaff or hayledge (a finely chopped hay product) or some hay cubes.

Using any one of these techniques is a minor change in your feeding routine and your horse will be healthier (and safer) because of it!

At what age should a horse first be ridden?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 17:18:00 +0000

How young is "too young to ride" is often a heated debate among horse people. My opinion is just one of many but I hope that you'll take the time to research some things (don't just take my word for it) before you form your own opinion of when you should begin riding a horse.

Many people are under the impression that it's okay to begin riding a horse at 2 years old. When I'm talking to people with this belief, the next sentence that follows (without fail) is: "they run racehorses at 2 years old". And I might as well go ahead and say it: This must be one of my #1 pet peeves when it comes to horses.

What many people don't realize is that yes, racehorses are ridden at 2 (often at 1 yr old) BUT racehorses are usually retired by 6 or 7 years of age. Many are retired before that. The most sickening part is that many are permanently lamed and many have to be euthanized (put to sleep) by the age of 2, 3 or 4. I wonder how many yearlings are injured while in training and euthanized before they ever make it to the racetrack that we will never hear of?

If a horse survives the training for racing, and lives long enough to be retired, almost every one has arthritis and joint problems from being ridden so hard at such a young age and are no longer rideable after racing. To me, it's a sad, sad thing to see a horses life ruined at such a young age as 6 or 7, just to "entertain" and make money for people.

Before you begin riding a horse, please consider that a horses skeletal system is not matured until they are around 4 years old, (some breeds take even longer to mature). Their bones are simply not fully formed, not strong enough and not designed to carry a persons weight at 2 years old. Riding a horse too early causes all kinds of joint problems.   Update 8/31/2016: Please read this article:   TIMING AND RATE OF SKELETAL MATURATION IN HORSES, With Comments on Starting Young Horses and the State of the Industry

If you want to do what's best for your horse and help to lengthen their lives, it's best to begin "light riding" (such as in the ring or on easy trail rides) when the horse is around 3 years old, and no "hard" riding (such as galloping with a rider) until 4 years old or more. I know some people who do absolutely no hard riding until the horse is 5 or 6 years old.

There is lots of ground training that needs to be done and many ways you can spend time with and enjoy your young horse while waiting on them to get old enough to ride. And it's worth the wait. Think of the long run: If you are patient and allow your horses' bones the time to grow and mature, you can have a strong, healthy riding partner that can happily carry you well up into their twenties.

UPDATED NOTE 8/31/2016:

I know this is a subject that generates a lot of passion from horse owners and trainers.
I BESEECH YOU to read this informative article by Deb Bennett, Ph. D.

TIMING AND RATE OF SKELETAL MATURATION IN HORSES, With Comments on Starting Young Horses and the State of the Industry

How old is a foal before it can walk?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 17:12:00 +0000

A foal will begin to try to stand within just a few minutes of being born. They will be very wobbly and uncoordinated but should be able to stand on their own in about 1 hour. (If they are not standing on their own within about 2 hours, you should consult with your vet.)

By 3 hours old, they should be standing on their own and nursing from mama. :D

Incredible, huh?

How often does a mare go into heat?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 14:48:00 +0000

Mares are notorious for having inconsistant heat cycles, especially young fillies and mares over the age of 15.

A mare is normally IN heat about a week and OUT of heat for about 2 weeks (14-16 days)

Typically, a mare is in heat (also called "in season") for 4 to 8 days at a time, depending on the time of year and whether or not a stallion is present. "Teasing" by a stallions' presence can bring a mare into heat within a couple of weeks.

In the late winter or early spring, a mare may be in heat the full 8 days while in mid-summer through winter only about 4 days, so how many times per year she is in heat can vary greatly.

What age should you wean a foal?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 14:41:00 +0000

It is best to wait until a foal is at least 6 months of age before weaning. Weaning a foal anytime before that can result in many problems, not just nutritional but psychological as well.

Of course, all mares and foals differ. Most foals will begin to lose interest on their own but if a foal continues to want to nurse, (and the mare allows it), it is completely understandable for a foal to nurse up to 8 months old.

In the wild, mustang mares will often allow their foal to nurse up to 1 year old, or about 2 weeks before she gives birth to her next foal.

In domesticated horses, where people have some control, it's best to not allow a foal to nurse over the age of 8 months due to concerns about the mares health and well being.

How can you tell when a mare will give birth?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 14:09:00 +0000

The mares udder will begin to get bigger about 3 weeks before she gives birth. It will begin to swell at night and get smaller during the day.

Usually, the udder will stay full and large on the day before she gives birth. Colostrum may drip from the teats. The colostrum will dry and form what looks like wax over her teats, which is where the term 'waxing' comes from. Waxing normally means that the mare will deliver her foal within 24 hours but its not uncommon for waxing to occur 2 to 3 days before the mare gives birth.

When the little drops of wax fall off of the teats, milk will usually drip out and that normally means the foal will be born within 8 to 12 hours.

Notice I often use the words 'normally' and 'usually'? Well, that's because pregnant mares are much like pregnant women. When it comes to pregnancy, there is nothing written in stone! All horses are different, so your little foal can choose to make his or her dramatic appearance earlier or later. (Maybe they like the attention and like to keep us on our toes!)

I know horses have been giving birth for centures without our help but since we can have some measure of control in our domesticated horses, keep a close eye on your pregnant mare when it's close to her delivery time and have the vets' phone number handy or on speed dial. Most deliveries go perfectly fine but why not be safe instead of sorry and use the assistance (if it's needed) to ensure a healthy mom and baby?

How long is a horse pregnant?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 13:53:00 +0000

The period of gestation is the time starting when a baby is conceived in the womb until it is born.

A horses' gestation period is roughly 11 months (or 340 days). Of course, a pregnant mare is never that predictable :D so a range of 320 to 370 days is considered fairly normal.

What does it mean to float a horses' teeth?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Tue, 15 Jul 2008 10:28:00 +0000

In domesticated horses, it is very common for their teeth to wear unevenly and develop sharp points and sharp edges that can cut into their jaws or tongue. As you can imagine, this can make it very difficult and painful for a horse to eat. Also, when they can't chew properly, their food is not digested properly and a horse can very quickly loose weight and look in poor or sick condition, no matter how much food they're getting.

Floating a horses teeth is a term that means the vet or equine dentist takes a long handled rasp and files off any sharp points and edges on the horses teeth.

Eeek! Sounds painful, huh? I thought so, too. (The first time I saw a horses' teeth floated, I cried! Yes, I am a sap :D But every vet and equine dentist I've talked to and everything I've read says that this procedure is not painful to the horse because the sensitive nerves are located so deep within the tooth. (And horses' teeth are very long, some teeth are up to 4 inches!)

Although I may never be 100% totally convinced it's not painful, it probably is true. Whether it's true or not, I do believe a good equine dentist can make it comfortable (or at least tolerable) for the horse and let's face the facts: nobody (especially us humans) likes the dentist but it's something that we just have to do.

Like people, a horse should have regular dental checkups and if your horse looses some weight and you don't know why and/or drops a lot of grain from their mouth while eating, it is a pretty good sign that they need their teeth checked. I believe word of mouth is the best advertising so ask around with other horse people you know and find a good equine dentist or vet to take care of your horses' teeth.

How many teeth does a horse have?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Sat, 12 Jul 2008 13:14:00 +0000

Foals begin to grow teeth within their first week.

By one year old, they have a complete set of 24 temporary or baby teeth (called deciduous teeth)

By age 5, the adult horse has a complete set of permanent teeth:
Female horses have 40 permanent teeth
Male horses have 42 permanent teeth (the male has 2 canine teeth that the female does not have)

What does it mean when a horse won't eat?

noreply@blogger.com (Unknown) — Fri, 11 Jul 2008 16:58:00 +0000

Horses bodies are designed to be almost continual grazers. If given the opportunity, they will naturally graze about 22 hours out of every 24 hour period, so it's perfectly normal if you see your horse dozing for 30 minutes to an hour, a couple of times per day and not eating. However, if the horse doesn't graze on grass or hay for more than a couple of hours, it's an indication to take notice and check your horse out.

If you offer your horse a favorite treat or offer them some grain and they refuse to eat it, it is a SURE SIGN that something is wrong. It's what is referred to as "going off their feed" and a vet should be called. If you tell the vet on the phone that your horse is "off their feed", most vets will get out there quite soon because they realize the importance of it.

Unfortunately, there are so many different things it could be that this question cannot be answered here. It's one of those situations with horses that a veterinarian must diagnose.