Real Estate Facts

Should you put technology in your home?

2016-10-28T08:30:00.001-05:00

Over 40% of homeowners are installing some form of smart technology that allows them to control their house from their phones or tablets!

For help designing a smart home check out our website (under build a custom home)

Kitchen Ready to sell!

2016-10-27T13:09:00.003-05:00

Make sure your kitchen is ready to 'wow' potential buyers. Remove fingerprints from stainless steel, and run a lemon through the garbage disposal to remove bad odors!

Sell your home for more

2016-10-27T09:42:00.003-05:00

Bathrooms can be a deal breaker for many buyers. Make sure yours is staged to perfection:

1. Hide the plunger or stack of magazines
2. Display a few fluffy white towels in a wooden basket
3. Make sure there are no leaks or dripping faucets

For more tips on how to sell you home for more: click here

Tax breaks for homeowners

2016-10-27T09:38:00.004-05:00

From property taxes to renewable-energy tax credits, make sure you take advantage of these homeowner tax breaks:

If death and taxes are the two things you can always count on in life, there probably should be a third: the bucketful of tax breaks Uncle Sam offers every year to encourage more Americans to buy a home.

For one, Americans are able write off virtually all mortgage interest, not only for your primary home, but for a second home as well under some conditions — up to $1.1 million of debt when you include home-equity loans that are used for certain personal expenditures, such as funding college education. In most cases, homeowners are also able to write off their property taxes.

“If you have taken out a homeowner’s loan, consider these deductions as Uncle Sam’s gift to you. These tax breaks will surely alleviate the financial burden of many taxpayers, especially those who are paying their mortgage,” says John Gregory, founder of 1040Return.com, a Baltimore-based tax-prep company.

–– ADVERTISEMENT ––

2. Interest on home-improvement loan: The IRS considers the interest on a home-improvement loan fully deductible, up to $100,000 in debt. In addition, interest paid on a home equity line of credit (HELOC) is also tax-deductible. However, as Greg McBride, chief financial analyst with Bankrate.com, notes, any portion of a home loan that is over 100% loan-to-value (meaning the loan is worth more than the value of the property) isn’t deductible. If you own a second home, the mortgage interest paid may be deductible as long as you spend at least 14 days or 10% of the fair rental days (whichever is longer) in the home, says Ray Rodriguez, Regional Mortgage Sales Manager for Cherry Hills, New Jersey-based TD Bank TD, +0.09%

All told, homeowners (65% of Americans in 2013, down from an all-time high of 69% in 2004) have opportunities for dozens more federal income tax deductions than renters.“(The code) is completely skewed,” towards homeowners, said Robert Moss, a longtime affordable housing advocate and now national director for government affairs for CohnReznick, a New York-based accounting and tax advisory firm. “There is not a direct way in the code to get a direct tax benefit from renting,” he said, adding that the only real federal benefit to renters, the Low-Income Housing Tax Credit (LIHTC) goes to investors, not renters, when they build affordable housing.

In fact, only 21 states and the District of Columbia offer renters any kind of tax breaks or credits — generally credits for what is considered to be the percentage of property taxes that is rolled into a rent payment. (In Maryland, the state calculates that 15% of a monthly rental payment actually represents payments for property tax by the landlord and that increased property taxes are passed on to tenants in the form of increased rents.) Other states offer property tax credits to low-income households when the property tax payments exceed a certain ratio compared to their income.

Still, Americans claimed $364 billion in mortgage interest deductions (MID) alone in 2011,according to the Congressional Research Service (CRS). All told, the MID will save taxpayers (or cost the government in lost revenue, depending on your point of view) $75 billion in 2015 that would otherwise go to the IRS. And if you think that’s a lot, until the 1986 Tax Reform Act, there was no limit on the amount of the mortgage interest deduction and it applied to however many homes were owned.

Americans who owned homes saved about $1,900 a year, on average, on their taxes with the deduction in 2012. This is particularly beneficial to first-time home buyers whose early monthly payments in a 30-year loan are mostly only interest. About half (48%) of American homeowners took advantage of the MID in 2011, the CRS said. What about the other half? Well, according to the CRS, they already paid off their homes (34%) or the mortgage interest deduction was less than the standard tax deduction (18%).

In addition, the exclusion of capital gains from the sale of a principal residence (up to $250,000 for single taxpayers and $500,000 for married couples filing jointly) is another well-known real estate-related deduction. That deduction returned Americans $26 billion worth of federal revenue last year, and is expected to save Americans more than $27 billion they would otherwise owe to Uncle Sam in 2016, according to the CRS.

Even with the bounty of tax breaks, the distribution of benefits among homeowners leaves many women and minority homeowners behind. According to a study by Trulia.com, a San Francisco-based real estate research firm, white heads of households are more than three times likely to be eligible to claim the mortgage income deduction than African-American heads of households (who are also 57% less likely to own a home in the first place than whites), citing data from the U.S. Census’ 2014 American Community Survey.

Women who are head of households are also one-third less likely to claim the interest deduction than men, the research firm said. Overall, only 12% of tax filers with less than $50,000 in adjusted gross income (AGI) claim the mortgage interest tax deduction, compared with 94% of those with income over $200,000 in AGI, Trulia said.

Still, if you own a home, you should maximize your tax breaks. Here are some some other home-owning related tax breaks you may be missing. :

1. Points on home mortgage and refinancing: If you bought a home in 2015 with a mortgage, then in addition to the mortgage interest (which may not be a lot if you bought late in the calendar year), you can probably write off the points (both origination and discount points) on your tax return, says Jackie Perlman, principal tax research analyst at H&R Block HRB, -0.02% . One point is equal to 1% of the principal loan amount. That’s because the IRS considers points to be prepaid interest.

The challenge is whether you’re eligible to deduct the points all at once, or whether you have to spread the costs out over the life of the loan. Generally, if you bought your first home using a loan or got a loan to build that first home, you can take the deduction all at once, the IRS says. For a second home, and often for a refinance on a first home, the IRS says you most likely have to spread it out. “You have to meet all the criteria in order to deduct them up front, otherwise you have to amortize them over the life of the loan,” she said. A good place to start, she says, is the IRS Tax Information for Homeowners guide.

3. Property tax: Property taxes are almost always tax-deductible, and more than half (54%) of American homeowners take this deduction, according to the Congressional Research Service, with American homeowners claiming $173 billion in 2011. As a result, about $30 billion will be returned to U.S. taxpayers in 2015, CRS says. Military service members (as well as clergy members) however can also write off real estate taxes and home mortgage interest even if they receive a housing allowance. Still, some things on your settlement document that might look like taxes really aren’t, says McBride. Transfer taxes, for example, and you can’t write off your attorney and appraisal fees, title insurance and credit report costs either, McBride notes.

4. Residential energy-efficient tax credit: If you made efforts in 2015 to make your home more energy efficient by installing equipment like storm doors, energy-efficient windows, asphalt or metal roofs, insulation, air-conditioning and heating systems, the IRS wants to give you a tax credit of up to $500. The credit has been extended as well through Dec. 31, 2016. “If you upgraded your home in 2015 by adding insulation, one of the most cost-effective upgrades you can make, you may be eligible for a tax credit on that investment,” said Ameeta Jain, co-founder of Long Beach, Calif.-based Homeselfe, a web-based residential energy audit site. “Not taking advantage of that is throwing away your hard-earned cash,” she said.

5. Renewable-energy tax credit: If you’ve installed equipment that uses renewable sources of energy, such as the sun and wind, to help power your home, you may be eligible for the Renewable Energy Efficiency Property Credit. You are eligible for this tax credit up to a whopping 30% of the cost of the equipment, installation included, so long as the equipment is placed in service by the end of December 2016. About 700,000 American homeowners have added residential solar equipment since 2010, according to the Solar Energy Industries Association.

6. Ground rent: There are rare situations in the U.S. for homeowners where the original owner still owns the land under your house after you’ve bought it, and you own the above ground property and “rent” the ground from the owner. The “ground rent” option reduces the cost of the home since you’re not buying the land. The IRS lets you get a break for this situation and thus “ground rent” amounts can be deducted if you have been paying the rent monthly or annually, so long as the lease is for more than 15 years. However, if you’re making a payment to capitalize the ground rent, to buy out the lessor’s interest to get out from under it every year, that payment isn’t deductible, the IRS says.

7. Income and interest on reverse mortgages: The IRS considers reverse mortgages as a loan advance not income, so the amount you receive isn’t taxable. But the interest accrued on a reverse mortgage isn’t deductible until the loan is paid off, so you can’t take a deduction each year for the interest as you might with the traditional mortgage interest you pay, says Gregory.

8. Private mortgage insurance: You may be eligible to claim the deduction for private mortgage insurance (PMI) or mortgage insurance premiums (such as those required on FHA loans) on your tax return. The deduction was set to expire after the 2014 tax year but was extended for both 2015 and 2016 tax years. Keep in mind that the deduction for qualified mortgage insurance premiums is reduced if your adjusted gross income (AGI) is over $100,000, and if it’s over $109,000 you can’t take the deduction at all. And you won’t get around that limitation if you’re married and filing separately, as the deduction begins to be reduced at $50,000 in AGI and disappears at $54,500.

9. Home expenses and improvement: If you make improvements to your property, you cannot write off the cost of home improvement, such as the materials and the labor. (Though you can write off the interest if you took out a home loan to pay Joe Contractor and purchase the materials.) However, when you sell your home, you can add the cost into the asking price of your property, which should diminish the capital gain when you sell your home, says Gregory of 1040Return.com. And while you can’t directly write off transfer or stamp taxes, as well as title insurance and costs of surveys, you can include them in your basis for what you paid when you bought your home.

10. Buying a home: The IRS allows first-time home buyers to withdraw up to $10,000 from their traditional IRA (and even Roth IRAs) penalty-free to help with the purchase of the home. Your spouse or even a parent, child, or grandchild can kick in another $10,000 from their IRA accounts, for a total of up to $20,000. You must use the money to buy, build, or substantially improve your first residence within 120 days of the withdrawal, says Perlman. You can also borrow half of your 401(k) balance up to $50,000 for the purchase of a home. But, the interest you pay on that 401(k) loan, unlike a mortgage loan, isn’t tax-deductible, she says.

Do it yourself painting

2016-10-27T09:33:00.004-05:00

Hiring a team of professional painters to paint the interior of your home can cost more than $2000! If you are trying to save money, these tips can help you paint any room like a pro! bit.ly/PaintLikeAPro

What are buyer closing costs

2016-10-26T20:10:00.003-05:00

Closing costs are the costs associated with buying or selling a home - buyer closing costs are more significant because the buyer is required to pay for the first years taxes and insurance as well as the legal fees associated with buying a home. This can sometimes mean that buyers are required to pay up to 4-5% of sales price in closing costs on top of paying for their down payment. There is a way to make the seller pay for the closing costs to make buying a home more affordable - contact me for more information.

What Colors Make a Room Look Bigger?

2016-10-24T11:23:00.000-05:00

Most people crave spacious homes. But, sadly, the reality is often quite different. The good news: If your bedroom or office feels cramped, that doesn’t necessarily mean you need to start knocking down walls or building additions to create a more open, airy ambiance. We have some answers!

A room’s size, after all, is as much a matter of perception as it is the nitty-gritty square footage. One easy way to create the illusion of space is to carefully choose the paint you slap on those walls.

Read on to learn what colors make a room look bigger, and get to it!

White

Designers love covering a tiny room in white paint, which promises to make even the smallest spaces feel a bit more grand. Because white reflects light, the room will feel brighter and more open. Plus, white walls give homeowners unlimited freedom to decorate (or even pick a fun, bright accent wall).

“White will make any room appear bigger and complement the natural lighting,” says Than Merrill, a real estate investor and host of A&E’s “Flip This House.”

Yellow

White isn’t the only color that reflects light: Yellow walls can have the same space-enhancing effect. In fact, neutral yellow creates a softer alternative to white. Just make sure you’re not going too yellow. Consider combining your citrus shade with white accents, like beadboard or trim, to add dimension to the room. Just keep the yellow creamy and soft—think banana or dandelion, not neon. Oversaturation is a real concern.

Cool blue and green

Blue and green can also impart brightness and depth. Our brains perceive these “cool” colors as receding, or being further away, creating the illusion of distance. Consider a sea-foam green or a soft, calming teal. Painting the molding and baseboards white will add clarity and dimension to your colorful space.

Gray

If white doesn’t strike your fancy but you still want a neutral palette (which, in addition to helping impart the perception of size, is also recommended for home staging), consider covering your walls in gray. Look for a gentle, calming shade that reminds you of soft summer clouds. Like white and yellow, it bounces light around the room to expand the space. But, unlike white, there’s no glare.

Deep jewel tones

While it might seem counterintuitive, dark, jewel-toned walls don’t have to feel confining. Consider rich, dynamic colors such as sapphire, emerald, or amethyst. Deep colors give the room a cavernous feel, softening sharp corners and blending the walls. This is especially effective in making extra-small rooms, like bathrooms, feel private and secluded. Just keep in mind that going dark can be a risky proposition: The wrong undertone or sheen could send your room wildly off balance (terms such as “cavelike” or “forbidding” come to mind). Consult a paint expert to help you choose the right color.

Monochromatic schemes

If you choose a lighter, softer color (like white, gray, or yellow), consider using a monochromatic scheme throughout the entire space. Choose rugs, furniture, and accents in similar shades—like a patterned rug in white and light gray. This creates a minimalist, clean look that makes the entire space feel larger. And that was the whole point, right?

How Long Does it Take to Close on a House?

2016-09-20T10:15:00.003-05:00

Closing on a home can now take an average of 50 days. I can help you navigate the home buying process! Click here

According to the latest report from The National Association of Realtors, detached single-family homes were the most popular this year!

2015-11-30T17:43:00.000-06:00

According to the latest report from The National Association of Realtors, detached single-family homes were the most popular this year!

Contact me for more information - click here

Want to really impress potential buyers at an open house? If you're short on time, here are a few easy ways to "wow" them before they come in:

2015-11-30T17:41:00.004-06:00

Want to really impress potential buyers at an open house? If you're short on time, here are a few easy ways to "wow" them before they come in:

Contact me for more tips.

Have you ever heard of your home's thermal envelope? Find out what it is, and 4 other ways to make your home energy efficient:

2015-11-24T12:31:00.000-06:00

Have you ever heard of your home's thermal envelope? Find out what it is, and 4 other ways to make your home energy efficient:

Your home is your place to rest, play, and spend time with your family. It should be a place of comfort, and this comfort need not come at a high cost. Many homes, however, waste a lot of energy in ways that can be prevented. Here are five ways to make your home more energy-efficient.

Replace or Weatherize All Windows

Windows are one of the biggest sources of heat gain and heat loss in a home. Both heat gain and heat loss rob you of comfort and keep your energy bills higher than they have to be, whether during the summer or winter months.

Windows rank high on the list because of air leakage around the frame and the heat that transfers through windowpanes. Old single-pane windows provide little protection against heat transference. If you replace these windows with energy-efficient windows you should see immediate savings and improved climate control in your home.

When choosing windows, consider the frame and not just glass. Frame material and frame design matters. Hinged windows allow less air leakage than sliding, single-hung or double-hung do. Avoid metal because these conduct heat. Choose insulated vinyl frames or insulated fiberglass frames for the most efficiency and durability.

Pay attention to glass efficiency ratings such as the U-factor and the solar heat gain coefficient. The right windows to choose depend largely upon regional climate. If you live in an area with hot summers and mild winters, you want glass that blocks out as much solar heat gain as possible.

Low-emissivity coatings on windowpanes reduce heat conduction through the glass, which benefits you by keeping hot air inside in winter and hot air outside in summer. There are other coatings and tints available, but you should still look for the Energy Star label. Only products that have met strict requirements by the EPA qualify for this special certification.

Seal the Home's Thermal Envelope

Air leakage through your home's exterior is another source of energy waste. Air infiltration makes your heating and cooling system work harder to maintain climate control. In order to find all of the hidden leaks, schedule an energy audit with an HVAC company. Until you do, seal the noticeable leaks. These can usually be found in the following areas:

Around window frames and doors
Beneath baseboards
Around flues and chimneys

When sealing leaks in most areas, you can use caulk, weather-stripping or expandable spray foam insulation. Another method to control air leaks is to replace poorly fitting doors or other features and to use hardware with a type that creates a better seal. One example is barn door hardware. This kind of hardware can create a better air seal in some cases because the door slides into place instead of swinging open. This creates fewer opportunities for gaps between the door and the frame.

Upgrade Your Home HVAC System

If your home's HVAC system is older than ten years, consider replacing it with a new energy-efficient system that is Energy Star certified. Improvements in design make these systems far more energy-efficient than any in the past. If they are sized correctly and installed correctly, you should see lower bills and improved comfort and improved air quality.

Upgrade Insulation

Most homes have only the minimum required insulation. Older homes might even fall far short of the minimum simply because the insulation has become too wet, or it has become compressed or it has shifted.

Adding insulation to the attic will have the largest effects. It doesn't matter which kind of insulation you use as much as it matters that it is properly installed, with no gaps, and that you use the recommended quantity for your region.

Adding insulation to exterior walls doesn't have to be a big remodeling project. Much of the time, it can be blown into walls by a contractor.

Use a Programmable Thermostat

These thermostats make a home more energy efficient in the following ways:

You won't have to remember to set the temperature lower or higher before you run out of the house each the morning, because you can program the thermostat to do it for you each day.
You can program different energy-saving temperature settings for special occasions, such as vacations, and you can still come home to a comfortable house.
Some new thermostats even allow you to check them remotely, sparing you from worrying about whether the home is getting too hot or cold while you are away.

By implementing these ideas, you have little to lose and a lot to gain in terms of comfort and savings. If it feels overwhelming or it is hard on your budget to make all of these changes at once, try to do them in steps. Each time you take even one step towards more energy efficiency, you will start saving money on energy bills.

For more information regarding buying or selling a home go to: http://www.mnrealty.info/

10 Tips on how to turn your new house into a home

2015-09-24T12:03:00.000-05:00

Once you make it through the entire home buying process and are holding the keys, take time to ensure the new house becomes your home. These 10 steps are a great place to start:

When you're moving into a new house, the more you know about it before you must know— during a high-pressure day, emergency, or crisis — the happier you and your family will be. Closing day took care of the legal and financial aspects of taking on ownership of your new home while move-in day got you and your stuff into the premises. We helped you, sanity intact, move-in with Three Sanity-Saving Tips For Moving-In Day. To top off this success, we've compiled a list of practical "must do's" to ensure settling in is the beginning of belonging.

Get off to a great start in your new home — new or resale — by attending to these "little details" which will also make this feel like "our home." Ignore them and they can cause problems down the road. Involve the whole family in dealing with these 10 tips and everyone will feel at home.

#1. Our New Passwords: Change codes and passwords for security systems and anything else you are taking over from the previous owner. Make sure the new version is significantly different, so it can't easily be guessed. Record passwords and keep in a safe place.

#2. Our New Keys: Change the locks on the house, garage, outbuildings, and gates. If you're happy with the existing hardware, a local locksmith can re-key or change the lock cylinder or replace the interchangeable core, depending on your system. Check window locks to ensure all are fully functional.

#3. Our Smoke/CO Detectors: Check with the local fire department to learn where smoke/ CO detectors and fire extinguishers are required or recommended. Interconnect units if possible. Check existing units for expiry dates. Never install a smoke/CO detector in your home without understanding how it operates whether it is hardwired or not. If not, install new batteries today and add a replacement date to your maintenance calendar. (This will also be a move-in anniversary reminder.)

#4. Our Manuals: Start a digital and/or paper folder for manuals for every appliance, detector, and operational device that could need repair or replacement. Jot down maintenance reminders on your maintenance calendar while you inventory what you have.

#5. Our Electrical Breaker Panel: Where is it? What does each circuit breaker connect to? Get out the labels and do a room-by-room check so you know what's what and record this by each breaker. If you have cable or other wired services, find out when the exterior and interior cables and hardware were last updated. You may be due for an upgrade.

#6. Our Water Shut-off: Where is the main shut-off? How do you turn off the water line to the refrigerator, dishwasher, washing machine, and every other potential source of leaks? Check temperature settings where applicable to suit your conservation plans. If the water heater or anything else, is rented, compare this arrangement to the cost of buying a new one.

#7. Our Furnace: Clean or replace filters in the furnace, range hood, air conditioner, and any other filtered appliances. Note times for the next clean on your maintenance calendar.

#8. Our Clean, Dry Home: Steam cleaning carpets is a no brainer, but make sure gutters and downspouts are cleaned, too. To ensure the house stays dry, check that the grading is correct all the way around the house. Are windows and doors properly caulked to keep interiors cosy and draft-free? If you'll be parking under sap-dripping evergreen trees, you'll need something to safely remove the sap, but not the car paint.

#9. Our Undisturbed Garbage: Ask neighbors about local pests and wildlife to make sure you prevent their invasion. That's a lot easier than getting rid of them once they settle in — pests, that is, not neighbors. A copy of the garbage pickup schedule is essential.

#10. Our New Closets: Don't make do with someone else's closets. Fit out closets with racks and shelving that suits you. Do it now instead of later wishing you had and you'll always be pleased you moved into your closets properly from the start.

For more information regarding buying or selling a home go to: http://www.zillowpress.com/benstrom/

How to get the perfect home!

2015-07-13T11:38:00.003-05:00

Selling your home can be tough regardless of market but finding your next home presents a completely new challenge – you have owned a home for a while and you know exactly what you want and what you don’t want but you can’t find that perfect place out there. I specialize in the complicated process of selling your home and helping you build the perfect custom home. The advantages to building a custom home is you get everything little detail the exact way you want it but the process can be difficult and that is where I help – I handle everything from helping you determine the perfect design, have that design drafted for a price that is acceptable, find the perfect contractor depending on area and type of home, and update you on the process throughout construction. It is a difficult process but with the right real estate consultant it can be far less stressful and an enjoyable process. Contact me today if you would like an experienced real estate consultant on your side while building your next home or to find out your exact home value!

For more information regarding buying or selling a home go to: http://www.mnrealty.info/

How to buy a home with no money down

2013-05-13T19:15:00.001-05:00

Buying a home with no money down has become more difficult since the crash but the USDA loan still offers a great way to buy a home with no money down outside the loop, that is the requirement you have to be outside a certain area

Contact Ben Strom for more information by clicking here

For more information regarding buying or selling a home go to: http://www.mnrealty.info/

What flooring is the most popular and will help your home sell?

2013-05-11T20:36:00.002-05:00

The best, most popular flooring to put in these days is laminate wood flooring - most homeowners below the $300,000 (which constitutes 85% of the market) mark are looking for wood flooring. You will spend anywhere from $1 to $5 per square foot but not matter what you spend you will always get your money back when you sell your home!

For more information on how to sell you home click here

For more information regarding buying or selling a home go to: http://www.mnrealty.info/

Rogers Housing Real Estate Market Information

2013-05-11T20:03:00.001-05:00

Rogers Housing Real Estate Market Information : for other housing information click here

Otsego real estate housing market information

2013-05-11T19:39:00.001-05:00

Otsego real estate housing market information - for more information click here

For more information regarding buying or selling a home go to: http://www.mnrealty.info/

St. Michael Housing Real Estate Market Information

2013-05-11T19:32:00.001-05:00

St. Michael Housing Real Estate Market Information : for other housing information click here

Month	Active Listings, $ Volume	Active Listings, Number of
Jun-12	$18,773,980	68
Jul-12	$17,028,900	62
Aug-12	$16,191,988	58
Sep-12	$15,760,488	53
Oct-12	$12,293,778	52
Nov-12	$13,427,995	58
Dec-12	$11,014,305	46
Jan-13	$11,897,900	50
Feb-13	$12,334,590	49
Mar-13	$13,275,440	53
Apr-13	$16,572,900	61
May-13	$15,900,100	57 For more information regarding buying or selling a home go to: http://www.mnrealty.info/

Big Lake Housing Information

2013-05-11T19:04:00.001-05:00

Big Lake Housing Information - for more information click here

Month	Active Listings, $ Volume	Active Listings, Number of
Jun-12	$28,020,078	135
Jul-12	$29,950,151	140
Aug-12	$29,903,481	144
Sep-12	$26,756,606	130
Oct-12	$26,797,917	131
Nov-12	$24,079,907	113
Dec-12	$21,378,617	109
Jan-13	$20,132,087	106
Feb-13	$23,677,388	118
Mar-13	$22,611,628	108
Apr-13	$25,836,317	114
May-13	$24,954,406	111

How to build a deck

2013-05-11T18:47:00.000-05:00

How to build a deck www.counselorrealty.com/bstrom

Once you have determined the basic design of your deck, the next step is to choose your materials. The most common choices are pressure-treated (P/T) lumber (usually Southern pine), redwood, or cedar. As a rule, pressure-treated lumber is the best choice for the substructure; the species you use for the visible parts of the deck will depend on your budget and the look you want.
The charts in this article will help you determine how much material you need, based on the species you choose. Although there is no such thing as an "average" deck, these instructions assume that your deck is attached to the house, is no more than 6" off the ground, and that there are no special load requirements. All design recommendations below are suggestions only, for estimating purposes. Always check local building codes before determining the final design.

Inside this document you will find information about:

Choosing Materials
Preparation and Layout
Building the Substructure
Decking and Railings

CHOOSING MATERIALS
Decking–If you choose pressure-treated lumber, you'll have a choice between 5/4 x 6 decking (1x5-1/2 actual size) or 2" material (typically 2x4 through 2x8, all 1-1/2" thick). The size and species of the decking you choose will determine the spacing between your joists. Recommended spacing for common decking boards is as follows:

Decking	Joist Spacing
5/4x6 P/T Southern pine	16" maximum
2 inch thick redwood, western red cedar, S-P-F, Hem-fir, Northern white cedar	24" maximum, 16" preferred
2-inch Southern pine	24" maximum

Determining Joist Size–2x6s through 2x10s are the most common sizes used for joists. The beams that carry them are typically 4x6 through 4x10, often "built up" from doubled 2-inch lumber. Pressure-treated lumber is generally less expensive than redwood or cedar, and can be used for the substructure even when the decking and railing will be other species.
In most cases, you'll want to determine the spacing between beams first, then use a joist size appropriate to that spacing. If the deck will be no more than 6' off the ground, a common recommendation is to space the support beams no more than 12' apart. As a rule, you'll only need one beam along the outer edge of the deck (a ledger bolted to the house supports the other end of the deck).

Beam Spacing	Joist Size (joists 16" o.c.)
Up to 8 feet	2x6 (Southern pine, Douglas fir, Western red cedar, S-P-F, or Hem-Fir) 2x8 (redwood, Northern white cedar)
8 to 10 feet	2x8 (all species listed above)
10 to 12 feet	2x8 (Southern pine, Douglas fir, Western red cedar, S-P-F, or Hem-fir) 2 x 10 (redwood, Northern white cedar)
Beam Spacing	Joist Size (joists 24" o.c.)
Up to 8 feet	2x6 (Southern pine, or Douglas fir) 2x8 (Western red cedar, S-P-F, Hem-Fir, redwood, or Northern white cedar)
8 to 10 feet	2x8 (all species listed above)
10 to 12 feet	2x8 (Southern pine, or Douglas fir) 2x10 (Western red cedar, S-P-F, or Hem-Fir, redwood, or Northern white cedar)

Determining Beam Size–Since support posts are often run through the decking to serve as railing posts, the specifications below are given for posts that will be spaced no more than 6' apart, with beams that are no more than 12' apart. With these spacing specifications, 4x4 posts are adequate for any deck less than 6' off the ground.

Beam Spacing (round down to nearest foot)	Miniumum Beam Size (doubled 2" material may be used in place of 4" thickness)
Up to 6 feet	4x6 (Southern pine or Douglas fir) 4x8 (Western red cedar, S-P-F, Hem-Fir, redwood, or Northern white cedar)
Up to 7 feet	4x8 (all species listed above)
Up to 9 feet	4x8 (Southern pine, Douglas fir, Western red cedar, S-P-F, or Hem-Fir) 4x10 (redwood, Northern white cedar)
Up to 11 feet	4x8 (Southern pine or Douglas fir) 4x10 (Western red cedar, S-P-F, Hem-Fir, redwood or Northern white cedar)
Up to 12 feet	4x10 (all species listed above)

PREPARATION AND LAYOUT
Preparation–First, prepare the ground under the deck by removing the sod. Slope the ground away from the house a minimum of 1" every 15' to provide drainage. Once the deck is finished, the ground should be covered with 6 mil. black polyethylene to keep weeds from growing.
Measure and mark the position of the ledger along the wall. The height of the ledger should be 1" below the bottom of the door plus the thickness of the decking, plus the depth of the joists if you plan to set the joists on the ledger and beams rather than using joist hangers. It makes no difference which way you set the joists, as long as your layout is consistent.
Mount a 2x6 ledger to the wall with 1/2" lag screws. The ledger must be level, and the lag screws should be long enough to penetrate the studs at least 3". Use two lag screws at each end, and one at each wall stud (typically 16" on center) in between. Install a "Z"-shaped flashing above the ledger to shed water, or space the ledger away from the wall with washers.

Layout–To establish the outside perimeter of the deck, measure out from each end of the ledger about 18" beyond the outside edge of the deck. Set up batter-boards as shown, then run taut strings from each end of the ledger to the batter-boards to establish the sides of the deck.
Run a third string between the batter-boards to establish the outside edge of the deck. Square the layout by measuring the opposite diagonals, then adjusting the ledger-to-batter-board strings until both measurements are equal. Take care to maintain the correct distance between the strings.

BUILDING THE SUBSTRUCTURE
Footing and Piers–Use a plumb bob from the string to establish the location of the footings. The holes for the footings must be deeper than the maximum frost penetration in your area, and deep enough to rest on undisturbed soil. It's a good idea to dig 6" deeper and fill the bottom of the hole with gravel, to allow drainage.
Mix concrete and pour the footings. To find the number of 90# bags of ready-mixed concrete you'll need for each 12x12 footing, measure the depth of the footing in inches and divide by 8. As you finish each pour, set a pre-cast pier on the footing so it extends about 6" above the ground level. Use a thin cement mix to bond the piers to the footings.
Posts–After the concrete has set, stand the posts on the piers. Use temporary braces and a level to plumb the posts. Once the posts are set, run a mason's line from the top of the ledger to each post and use a line level to mark it for cutting. The height of the post should be equal to the height of the ledger minus the depth of the beam that will be set on it.

Beams–Fasten post-to-beam connectors on top of the posts with nails and 1/2"x5-1/2" hex bolts, then set the beams into the connector. Plumb and square the assembly, then secure the beams as you did the posts. If local building codes require it, install 2x6 diagonal cross braces and secure them with 1/2"x4-1/2" lag screws.

Joists–Mark the joist locations on both the beams and ledger, either 16" or 24" o.c., as per your design. Set the joists in place with the crowns up.

If the deck is wide enough that you need two sets of joists (and if you set the joists over the beams rather than hanging them from joist hangers), splice the connections by overlapping each pair of joists at least 1' and nailing them together with 8d galvanized nails.

Install blocking between the joists wherever required. Blocking requirements are determined by your local building codes. Finally, nail the rim joist across the ends of the joists.
Stairs–Build any stairs you will need. Instructions for building outdoor stairs are covered in an accompanying brochure.

DECKING AND RAILINGS
Decking–Deck boards should be laid with the bark side up, and with both ends centered over a joist. Stagger the joints of side-by-side deck boards so they don't line up. Notch the boards around posts or other obstructions, leaving 1/8" space for drainage.
2"-thick deck boards should be spaced approximately 1/8"; most builders set a 16d nail between the boards as they fasten them. 5/4"'x6" pressure-treated decking may be placed with each board flush against the next; natural shrinkage will provide the proper spacing.
Fasten the deck boards at each joist. Use two fasteners per support point for decking up to 6" wide, or three fasteners for wider boards.

Deck screws or clips are generally better than nails, but all fasteners must be hot-dipped galvanized, aluminum, or stainless steel. If you use nails, blunt the points by tapping them with your hammer, to avoid splitting the decking.
Let the decking run over the edge of the structure, then saw the ends off after all boards are laid.
Railings–Secure the railing posts at each corner of the deck, and on each side of the stairs. Then secure the field posts, spaced equally between the corners but no farther apart than allowed by local building codes (typically 6'). Nail the sub-railings and cap rail in place, then add the balusters.

TOOL AND MATERIAL CHECKLIST

Level and Line Level
Mason's Line
Ready-mixed Concrete, Gravel
Shovel
Structural Connectors
Adjustable Wrench
Chalk Line
8d and 16d Galvanized Common/Box Nails
Lumber for Posts, Ledger, Beams and Joists
Railing Material
Stain
6 mil. Black Polyethylene
Plumb Bob
2x2s and 1x4s for Batter Boards
Wheelbarrow
Concrete Piers
Lag Screws, Hex Bolts w/ Nuts and Washers
Hammer
Measuring Tape
Screws
Deck Boards
Framing Square
Brushes and Thinner

For more information regarding buying or selling a home go to: http://www.mnrealty.info/

Does a newly sealed driveway help sell your house?

2013-05-06T06:38:00.001-05:00

Short answer: Yes

A driveway that is newly sealed and without large holes and cracks is the first thing a homeowner sees when they drive into your home. There have been numerous studies done but most indicate that a large majority of people decide on a home in the first 10 seconds. In 10 seconds they haven't seen much more than your driveway and maybe your front door so those are very important aspects of selling your home.

For more tips on selling your home visit my website and ask for a free brochure at bstrom.counselorrealty.com

Spring Housing Maintenance

2013-05-04T18:43:00.002-05:00

Winters are hard on houses, especially when they last as long as ours did. Every house needs certain maintenance including:

Gutters

Debris-choked gutters are a leading cause of water damage. Even a single clog of leaves can redirect water out of gutters and into your home’s walls. Be sure to follow proper safety precautions when inspecting your gutters, and when you’re in doubt, hire a professional.

Plumbing

Cold winters can be brutal on pipes. Get into the basement and check your plumbing hill washing the dishes, watering the lawn, or taking a shower–any time you’re pushing a large amount of water for an extended time. Look for leaks, drips, or even surface moisture. A small leak is an easy fix that will save on your water bill, but if a leak grows and floods, pipe repair will be the least of your problems. Recheck the pipes an hour later for signs of dampness and slow leaks.

Foundation

Runoff and freezing temperatures can cause cracks in your foundation. Be sure to seal these cracks as you find them, and consult a pro if you have any questions about hidden damage or any impact on your home’s structural integrity. Pay special attention to any areas where water might pool against the foundation, often caused by lost soil.

Air Conditioning / Ventilation

Your AC unit will get a workout over the summer, so be sure your vents are free of debris and your filters are new. If you use window-mounted units, ensure that window seals are tight and wall-mounted supports are securely fastened.

Seals

Heat and cold are both hard on rubber seals and caulking. Replacing seals around your doors and windows can pay for itself in just a month and requires very little effort, so there’s no reason to avoid it.

For more information that will help you sell your home go to www.counselorrealty.com/bstrom

How to sell your own home

2013-05-01T19:47:00.001-05:00

Selling a home in any market can be cumbersome but today's market presents new challenges

There are three factors that will determine whether your home will sell

1. Location

2. Price

3. Condition

Sometimes there isn't a lot you can do about the first two unless your you have a favorable loan to value which isn't all that common these days; and moving your house isn't very practical. Condition is the one thing that most people can affect.

First thing to do that won't cost any money is to give the appearance of better condition and how you do that is to clean up. It has been estimated that homeowners could loose as much as 7.5% off the sale of their home just from not cleaning and decluttering - on a $200,000 house that is $15,000!

Second thing to look at doing is sprucing up some appearances - sometimes when we see a problem day after day we forget it is there have a friend or a professional Realtor look for small things like missing molding, unfinished projects, water stains, etc. It is not always easy to critique someone else's home so make sure you find someone that will tell you the truth.

Third is to do a little remodeling new floors give a wow factor that won't destroy your budget, new appliances will always pay for themselves, but the most important part of your home in the entrance. A recent study indicated that 95% of home buyers make their decision on whether to buy a home in the first 10 seconds. You should buy a new front door, make sure the front is clean (no spider webs, dirt, dying plants, etc.), and don't store anything in the front of the house. You can do many things to make your home look nice but if they see dying plants or spider webs by the front door the rest won't impress them anymore since they have already made up their mind.

For more helpful hints and professional advice go to Ben Strom's website - there is so much to do in order to get a house sold and simply listing it with any old Realtor won't get it done. Contact me for a free consultation and more information by email

HOME OWNERSHIP IMPORTANCE

2012-07-24T00:57:00.000-05:00

Home Ownership matters…to people, to communities, and to America. Why?

For every two homes sold, one job is created in the U.S.

Each purchase generates as much as $60,000 in economic activity over time.

The home ownership debate

Some who care about creating jobs also argue that home ownership may be overrated, and that we might be better off as a nation of renters.

If that’s of concern to you, follow the debate about federal government incentives to home ownership—the outcome of which will determine whether the average American can still get an affordable mortgage and whether home owners can continue to deduct their mortgage interest as a benefit of home ownership.

To find a home click here

Buying a gas grill for your new home

2012-07-24T00:52:00.002-05:00

There may be no home cooking appliance with a wider price range than the outdoor gas grill. With models starting as low as $29 and climbing to $5,000 and higher, it is an understatement to say there’s is a model for every budget. When shopping for a gas grill, the motto “You get what you pay for” is especially fitting, explains Dan Marguerite, owner of Backyard Barbecue Store in Wilmette, Ill. Basement models, he says, offer poor performance, are cheaply constructed, and often fail to survive two summers.

Cost range: $29-$5,000 and up

Likely additional costs: Assembly, natural gas hookup or propane tank, cover

Average life span: 2-16 years

Sub-$50 range

Grills in the sub-$50 range are often of the tabletop propane variety. These units are constructed of thin painted sheet metal and cheaply fabricated components, all but guaranteeing a short lifespan. Brief 90-day warranties don’t offer much of a safety net.

When it comes to power, these grills are positively entry level, says Marguerite. The single, 12,000 BTU burner is satisfactory for grilling hamburgers and hot dogs but will be far less successful at charring a thick porterhouse. Still, when it comes to portability, these grills have no equal. If you are looking for a highly mobile tailgating grill, look to this sector of the market.

$50-$150 range

The biggest differences between a $50 gas grill and a $150 grill will be size and fuel source. Boasting cooking areas over twice that of their less expensive counterparts, these grills are the most economical options for families.

Models in this price range run on liquid propane stored in large refillable tanks (as opposed to the small disposable cylinders). Construction quality is moderate, featuring lightweight steel or aluminum bodies. However, the boost in price over the cheapest gas grill models yields an extra burner (albeit a low-powered one). Most are furnished with thin, steel-rod cooking grates that may warp from exposure to high temperatures, such as those from flare-ups.

$150-$350 range

Marguerite says buyers in this price range can expect to get “middle of the road” power, with burners putting out around 20,000 BTUs. Shoppers should expect a three- or four-burner grill, a roomy cooking surface, and perhaps even a storage cabinet and side burner—a separate burner used for boiling water or other independent cooking chores.

With widths of 20 to 24 inches and boasting around 400 square inches of grill surface, these units can simultaneously cook about two dozen burgers. Homeowners in cool climes who grill year round likely will lament the thin-body construction, says Marguerite. “These grills do a poor job of retaining heat in cold weather,” he says. At this price range, expect less-expensive porcelain-coated steel cooking grates that tend to chip, rust and need replacing at a cost of $30 to $60.

$350-$600 range

Constructed of heavy cast-aluminum or thick-gauge steel, and utilizing high-quality stainless steel burners, these units are built to last. Parts that do fail will be covered by five- to 10-year warranties.

Averaging between 400 and 500 square inches of cook surface, these units are not substantially larger than those in the $150-$350 category. But they are constructed of heavy cast aluminum or thick-gauge steel and utilize multiple high-quality stainless steel burners. Heavy-duty castors and solid-built carts make it easy to move these grills from spot to spot.

Grills in this category can handle enough food for 15 to 18 people. Buyers are urged to select a burner configuration that appeals to them as some models arrange them front-to-back versus side-to-side, which can complicate indirect cooking.

$600-$1,500 range

Units starting around $600 feature burners that reach 40,000 BTUs, power that will make short work of even the largest barbecue payloads. Precision controls and even heat distribution give home cooks the ability to simultaneously sear, cook, and keep food warm. To step up to a 36-inch grill that approaches 900 square inches of cook space, a shopper should expect to spend at least $1,000.

Constructed of high-quality stainless steel throughout, these grills will weather years of use. These first-class rigs often include heavy cast-iron grates, side burners, under-grill storage, and even a rotisserie spit and motor. Buyers also get the peace of mind that comes with improved customer service and best-in-class warranties that range from 10 years on burners to 25 years on the body.

$1,500 to $5,000 range

When you spend upwards of $2,000 on a grill, you’ll get a host of features and quality construction. These appliances boast six or more top-of-the-line burners. Almost standard issue these days is an infrared sear burner that can reach temps topping 700 degrees.

Most include a rear-mounted rotisserie burner with motor, interior and exterior lighting, and even a spring-assisted lid for effortless opening. With the best grills also come the best warranties, typically covering most components for 10 to 25 years.

Propane vs. natural gas

Homeowners should decide before buying a grill whether they intend to fuel it with propane or natural gas, says Marguerite. While many grills can be converted for around $50, it is best to buy one factory engineered for one fuel type or the other.

Owners of built-in units typically choose natural gas as there are no tanks that need filling and the cost to operate is roughly half that of propane. According to the U.S. Department of Energy’s most recent figures, propane costs $20.47 per million BTUs compared to natural gas’s $12.18. Assuming a homeowner grilled once a week, he or she can expect to pay about $40 per year for propane and $24 for natural gas. Marguerite says that his company charges $150 plus $7 per foot to connect a grill to a natural gas line.

Suggested extras

A good-fitting cover will extend the life of any outdoor appliance. Expect to pay between $30 and $50. Owners of propane powered grills should consider purchasing a $20 back-up tank so that a fully charged spare is always on hand. A $20 gas gauge will take the guesswork out of estimating a tank’s contents.