The Non-Blonde

Chanel Gardenia (Les Exclusifs EDT)

2013-05-21T00:07:00.002-04:00

As Chanel makeup line is evolving and becoming more innovative and sophisticated than ever before, the fragrance line seems to be taking steps in the opposite direction. We all know that everything was reformulated, diluted and cheapened (while the retail price climbs higher and higher); Chanel Gardenia, formerly part of the boutique line that included Cuir de Russie and Bois des Iles, was assimilated into Les Exclusifs range, the big vats of EDT (now also in somewhat more reasonable bottles and the extrait is back as well). While I was never a huge fan of Chanel Gardenia I did have some respect for its very blonde elegance. However, testing the most recent version of the eau de toilette left me more flabbergasted with Chanel than ever before.

It's no secret that Gardenia was never a true gardenia scent. As a matter of fact, Turin/Sanchez labeled it as a "Not Gardenia", and who can blame them? While gardenia as a note is pretty hard to capture in a realistic way (the flower is nearly impossible to extract and tincture), there are many interesting approximations on the market, older and new (here are several favorites-- without searching and just from immediate memory: Goutal Un Matin d'Orage, JAR Jardenia and Bolt Of Lightning, Arquiste Boutonniere no. 7, Isabey Gardenia, Tom Ford Velvet Gardenia, Ineke Hothouse Flower, and the brilliant Serge Lutens Une Voix Noire). So what exactly is the point of a gardenia with none of the sultriness, sweet and salty aspects, or heady sensuality?

I can't figure it out. And I tried. I swear.

The current version of Chanel Gardenia opens with an abstract approximation of a very polite white floral. It's not quite tuberose, not quite orange blossom and only offers a hint of a beachy tropical humidity that may or may not be related to gardenia. I smell green leaves, something ripe and almost interesting behind the shockingly synthetic floral veil, but this hint of hope fades away quickly. The whole thing is as fake as a Taylor Swift relationship and has little presence, an ephemeral sillage and barely any personality. Chanel Gardenia is not bad: it's difficult to dislike something that's trying so hard to be pretty. And Gardenia is pretty in a very inoffensive and utterly forgettable way.

I like whatever is left on the skin after about five hours. It's a milky musk with a beachy undertone. If I had to choose between Gardenia and, say, Jennifer Aniston's fragrance there's no doubt I'd go with the smooth and more balanced Chanel, but that doesn't say much, does it? Chanel Gardenia in its current formula is the ghost of something that could have been great. The structure and cheekbones are there, just not the curves and flesh.

Chanel Gardenia ($130, 2.5oz EDT) is available at Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue flagship store, Chanel boutiques and chanel.com.

Images: La Chanelphile, Hprints, Chanel website and an old online auction.

Want: Diane Von Furstenberg Fall 2013 Dress

2013-05-20T13:30:00.000-04:00

DVF Fall 2013 looked extra promising when I saw the Fashion Week photos. I already earmarked a few looks (I add a couple of DVF classics to my wardrobe every season and wear them year after year), including Look No.30 from the runway seen here on Zoe Saldana (from her Friday night appearance on Jimmy Fallon's show). Obviously, this is a version of Diane von Furstenberg's classic wrap dress with an added keyhole neckline and more elaborate sleeves. I adore the print (there are some other great prints and patterns in this fall collection, including the one Diane herself was wearing at the end of her show). I have to say that I like Zoe in this dress a lot better than Cara Delevinge who modeled it. Zoe's Louboutins are prettier (and probably comfier. As much as I worship at the altar of DVF, the shoes are often so badly molded I can't stand in them for too long).

Photos of Zoe Saldana via Zimbio; DVF show via Style.com.

Hourglass Gypsy Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo

2013-05-20T12:45:00.001-04:00

Reviews of Hourglass eye shadow duos write themselves at this point. I received this duo in Gypsy directly from Hourglass and it joined the other ones I already have: the dramatic Prism, elegant tone-on-tone Suede, and classic Dune. Gypsy is a high contrast cream ivory/bronze combination with a smooth almost metallic shiny finish (no glitter or any particles).

The silky texture of Gypsy is the usual Hourglass luxurious fare. Both colors are easy to blend and can be used together or for a single shadow look. These are basic year-round shades. Nothing innovative about ivory and bronze, but it's the quality and performance that make Hourglass duos a must-have for me. They're among my quick and easy no-brainer makeup products: pretty and quick. Gypsy can also be the base of a hot summer with a touch of teal, turquoise or aqua along the lash line.

I always use a primer and find that Hourglass eye shadows maintain their intensity and finish from morning till night including on humid summer days. I hope eventually Hourglass will release a few more color combinations, and I definitely have to add Lagoon and Exhibition to my collection at some point. They've been calling my name for a while-- and just think of pairing Lagoon with Gypsy!

Hourglass Gypsy Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo ($38) is available at Bergdorf, Barnyes, and Sephora. The product for this review was supplied by the company free of charge.

Histoires de Parfums- 1740 Marquis De Sade

2013-05-19T23:45:00.000-04:00

"The imagination is the spur of delights... all depends upon it, it is the mainspring of everything; now, is it not by means of the imagination one knows joy? Is it not of the imagination that the sharpest pleasures arise?" ---Marquis de Sade

I can't say that I'm particularly crazy about Histoires de Parfums' decision to name this particular perfume after the 18th century uber-creep, Marquis de Sade. I do get what they were after, sort of. This Histoires des Parfums fragrance is meant to appeal to the dark side in all of us. It's unquestionably sexy, thick and leathery, seductive in its sweetness and very unique. The perfume is intriguing and at times cerebral. It's also addictive. I've been borrowing the husband's travel spray bottle pretty often, despite its being as non-spring a fragrance as they come.

There's something almost oily in the opening of 1740. In theory there's also bergamot in the top notes, but on me this thing goes right into the core and base with no niceties to break the ice. It always reminds me at first of Annick Goutal's Duel, before Histoires takes the Marquis even darker and sweeter. There's lots of spices, something that smells suspiciously like body heat (no cumin, surprisingly), a syrupy molasses-like note that is both dangerously poisonous and tempting, and leather. Lots and lots of soft black leather.

The gourmand honeyed thread that runs parallel to everything else going on in 1740 is what makes it stand out among other leather perfumes. It's so sweet you want to dive in and lick every last drop, just when the whip is cracked and you smell that this is not your grandma's kitchen with its pie drizzled with maple syrup. It's the other kind of delicious, the one that's less caloric but just as much fun. 1740 is also a shapeshifter. At times it smells quite impolite (the blending of labdanum and leather will do that, creating a carnal musky aroma), and other times the Marquis wears his aristocratic face and intellectual robe. It makes you stop and think about the thing you're smelling. Is it skin? is it the kitchen? or are you in a dungeon? Marquis de Sade, after all, spent long years in various prisons (and an insane asylum), including the Bastille.

I wear 1740 without hesitation. I love leather and adore immortelle, so it sits well with me. I don't think it's particularly masculine, despite being designated for men (and placed on the far right of Luckyscent's gender spectrum). Yes, it does smell fabulous and refined on the husband, so men with no fear of immortelle should go ahead and sample, as should everyone else. After all, I hear the Marquis didn't discriminate either.

Notes: Bergamot, Davana Sensualis (artemisia), Patchouli, Coriander, Cardamom, Cedar, Birch, Labdanum, Leather, Vanilla, Elemi, Immortelle.

Histoires de Parfums- 1740 Marquis De Sade ($125, 60ml EDP) is available from Luckyscent, Henri Bendel, BeautyHabit, MiN NY, and Aedes.

How To Shop For Vintage Perfume? Ask The Non-Blonde

2013-05-16T21:30:00.000-04:00

Sooner or later in your perfume journey the allure of masterpieces of the past will become too tempting to ignore. Or maybe you have a vague memory of something a beloved relative used to wear and you're yearning to find it again. No matter the reason, you are going to start looking for vintage perfumes, and if you're new to this particular obsession it can be confusing, overwhelming, heartbreaking or disappointing (and sometimes all of these at the same time). Here are a few points to consider if you're about to take a dive into the rabbit hole of vintage perfume.

1. Online shopping should be your very last resort. Eight, ten and even five years ago eBay was a great place to buy vintage perfume for pennies. So few people were interested in old juice and sellers offered these bottles as an afterthought. Nowadays it's a lucrative enough field to have professional crooks who buy empty bottles and fill them with who knows what. There are fake labels, watered down juice stretching that Chanel No. 5 drop into two bottles, and plain old thieves. On top of that there's also the issue that always existed: old juice may have turned on its own because of inadequate storage. You need to be aware that there's a risk there even if the seller is honest and reliable-- some things are out of his or her hands, and refund and return policies have become more complicated. If you've never smelled a certain perfume you'll have a hard time knowing if that's the real stuff in the bottle and proving that you even deserve a refund. So beware and rethink before you sink a crazy amount of money (that would have bought you a couple of new Amouage bottles at Luckyscent) into what may or may not be Chanel 46 (most likely it's not).

2. The safest and most satisfying way to get vintage stuff is in your immediate circle. Ask friends and relatives if they may have unwanted old bottles in the back of their closets. Some of the best stories I've heard about perfume treasures involved the linen closets of spinster aunts and grumpy old neighbors clearing out their attics. In the same way, yard sales and estate sales are also a great place to find stuff. People with no interest in perfume are prone to offer an unopened Guerlain gift set from the 60s next to their VSH tapes of Friends and for a similar price.

3. Thrift stores and Goodwill may hold some fine gems. Real antique stores are more tricky since many dealers prefer to only handle empty bottles (I don't even want to think about the priceless juice that went down the drain the process), and some of them have already caught up to the growing interest and raised their prices accordingly.

4. Don't disregard the cheapies. Of course, we all want to find that bottle of original Djedi. But with the dwindling supplies and growing demand for big names it's harder to find the grand perfumes from their heyday at even semi-reasonable prices. However, less known brands and even downright cheap ones from the 1950s, 1960s and even 70s are still worth a sniff and some of them are going to knock your socks off. Same goes for Avon. Most of the miniature bottles are beyond tacky, but the actual fragrances, especially those from the 70s were made with better raw materials than a lot of today's mainstream dreck. Have a sniff at Timeless or Charisma and you'll see what I mean.

Are you a vintage shopper? Please share your tips, ideas and experience, bad or good.

Photo: Life.com.

Those Were The Days- Fashion, Models, Makeup Part II

2013-05-16T13:08:00.000-04:00

This is the second part of our little trip back in time to the land of pink frosty lipsticks and other pleasures thanks to the amazing collection on Top Models Of The World.

Perhaps one of the best 1980s fashion looks:

And the worst:

Color!

Linda was the face of Yardley in the mid-90s. Is anyone familiar with Baroque perfume?

I loved Princess Stephanie:

Ads for musk perfumes were always hilarious:

I can't even:

Anjelica Huston:

Oh, Gia:

And finally, this one is for Lawrence in Ohio:

Guerlain Terracotta 4 Seasons Tailor-Made Bronzing Powder- Brunettes

2013-05-16T11:05:00.000-04:00

Nobody does bronzers like Guerlain. Every year they dazzle us with limited edition items from their Terracotta line in gorgeous designs inside and out. But today I'm going back to the "regular" Guerlain Terracotta 4 Seasons Tailor-Made Bronzing Powder because it's a repurchase-- I was 3/4 of the way through an older version of the 4 Seasons bronzer and even hit pan when I dropped the compact and what was left shattered to pieces (to the delight of the cats). I cleaned up and got rid of the mess, so I'm not sure which one I had before, but I replaced it with this Guerlain Terracotta 4 Seasons Tailor-Made Bronzing Powder in Brunettes. I could have just as easily gone with Blondes. Maybe I really should have done it, because as I know very well from my experience with Terracotta Light Sheer (the mosaic one that also has shimmer), Blonde is actually easier for me to wear.

In any case, Guerlain Terracotta 4 Seasons Tailor-Made Bronzing Powder in Brunettes is a beautiful product. The texture is matte but it imparts a certain understated glow to the skin. The four parts of the bronzer are different variations of natural bronze and the compact is large and wide enough so you can maneuver your brush between the four quarters and pick as much or as little as you want from each. The base undertones of this Guerlain bronzers are very warm and summery. I don't recommend using it as a contour, despite the perfect finish because it's just too sunny, at least on my neutral green not-quite-NC30-35 skin.

The pigment level in this Guerlain bronzer is beyond intense. I swatched gradually and you can see that the dark part is really dark. I used a regular blush brush for swatching, but obviously that's too dense for what most of us need. I recommend a very fluffy long haired brush that can create a sheer veil of color for the perfect sun-kissed look. The new limited edition Dior Summer Blush Brush is one, fan brushes will also perform well here (Laura Mercier, Louise Young or Hakuhodo), as will Yachiyo brushes (only touch the tip to the product-- that's more than enough) and Hakuhodo G5537 and G5538.

Bottom Line: a staple.

Guerlain Terracotta 4 Seasons Tailor-Made Bronzing Powder- Brunettes ($75) is available from the counters and at Sephora.

Packing Perfume For a Mini Vacation

2013-05-15T19:03:00.000-04:00

I remember my mother packing for a trip abroad years ago. She had an elegant refillable purse atomizer that she bought for the occasion at a nice cosmetics store. She decanted Chloe by Karl Lagerfeld, her one and only signature perfume, from the big bottle into the travel sprayer and that was it. She was all set. The other day I had a small moment of panic. The husband and I were unpacking our stuff in the little room at the B&B where we were staying for a three day getaway. For a brief moment I wasn't sure I actually packed the handful of perfume decant I selected to bring on the trip. The idea of not having the scents I wanted, and worse: not having perfume at all (!) was intolerable. Within a second I found my decants in the zippered compartment of my bag, not to mention that the husband was happy to share the samples he had packed (Tam Dao, Tom Ford Grey Vetiver, Frederic Malle Bois d'Orage, L'Artisan Mechant Loup), so I wasn't in real danger, but not having some Shalimar with me felt wrong.

Packing perfume for a trip, long or brief, requires thinking about what I'd like to wear in the near future. Sometimes I take a couple of samples I'm testing, but for the most part I want to have fragrances I'm already certain will make happy and comfortable. I always have something that feels like it's part of me (hence Shalimar), a few things I'm loving at that particular point in time, something for an evening out, another that will suit the weather, a comfort scent for night (not sleeping in my own bed surrounded by cats requires help), a sunny perfume that feels good outdoors... the list goes on. Here's what I packed this time:

Mona di Orio- Eau Absolue. The husband actually wore it for dinner. A perfect balance between day and night, rain and shine, femme and homme.
M. Micallef Rose Extreme- Brightens the day and stays on.
Vintage Shalimar (EDT)- Because it feels like home.
La Via del Profumo- Tawaf. A sultry jasmine and then some.
Dior- New Look 1947. Because right now I'm utterly in love with this sophisticated floral and want to wear it all the time.
Sonoma Scent Studio- Champagne de Bois. Woody and outdoorsy, yet cozy.

I could have easily packed a couple more, just to be on the safe side, but I tried to be reasonable. How about you? Do you have a fragrance you must have on hand while away? Were you ever stuck anywhere scentless?

Photo of Marlene Dietrich via Straight, Stirred Up, With A Twist.

Those Were The Days- Fashion, Models, Makeup Part I

2013-05-15T13:44:00.000-04:00

Last weekend I spent more time than I'm willing to admit browsing the archives of Top Models Of The World. The site has photos from fashion shows, scans of fashion and beauty editorials from old magazines and vintage ads featuring famous and less famous models. Usually I look for older stuff, but I was sucked in by items from the 1908s and 90s, pictures I've seen on the pages of the actual magazines during the times they were the only ~~connection~~ lifeline to the fashion world. I picked some of these gems to share with you.

Ines de la Fressange in Chanel was elegance personified:

Even in this kind of an outfit:

The same goes for Iman in Dior:

Even Guerlain and Famke Janssen didn't escape the 80s:

Madame Sarkozy:

Nobody escaped the mullet:

Janice Dickinson in saner days; Cosmo in less smutty days:

Aziza taught us how do apply blush:

Pretty much my fashion ideal circa 1982:

Serge Lutens took his creative vision from Dior to Shiseido:

The gentleman in the next two photos is Uncle Karl:

Jerry Hall and Joan Severance in French Vogue:

Kimora, before Baby Phat and reality TV:

Cindy was already regretting the pleated pants:

No idea what's going on there, but bunny!!!

Stay tuned for part 2 tomorrow!

La Prairie Agate Cellular Treatment Eye Shadow

2013-05-15T11:23:00.000-04:00

La Prairie Cellular Treatment Eye Colour shadows are a splurgy treat. All La Prairie products are, as a matter of fact, and they're hard to resist because the textures really are that awesome. Agate, a neutral wet sand color, is a perfect base color for many makeup looks. On my eyelids (that are naturally darker than my arms) it's a barely-there color that's perfect either for an almost bare look or as a companion for La Prairie Eye Colour in Hematite, one of my favorite blue eye shadows in the known universe.

The texture is gossamer silk and it blends effortlessly. The finish has a light low-key glow that reflects the light ever so slightly. La Prairie Agate is beautiful, understated, wearable, and versatile. The packaging is elegant-- just look at the outside of the compact. It would have been better, though, if the eye shadow came with a usuable brush instead of the silly sponge applicators. It can also be a slippery slope, as all their products happen to be (see also the lipsticks in Quiet Berry and Midnight Plum, or the Cellular Glow cream blush).

Bottom Line: don't say I didn't worn you.

La Prairie Agate Cellular Treatment Eye Shadow ($45) is available from top department stores.

Ten Masculine Perfumes Women Should Borrow

2013-05-14T21:00:00.000-04:00

Regular readers know that I don't care even one bit about gender labels assigned to perfume. As the husband is fond of saying, it's not like the bottle's hiding something under its tail. Thankfully, most of my favorite perfumers and perfume houses subscribe to a more unisex or shared view, but there are still masculine perfumes that I highly recommend women would at least try, as they're just too beautiful to miss. Here's my list:

Ormonde Man. Similar to Ormonde Woman, just a bit more streamlined.
Guerlain Vetiver. And any vetiver, really. If you love green grassy and earthy perfumes you'll enjoy the complexity of this note.
Speaking of Guerlain, their entire masculine line is worth trying. Derby, even in its thinner reformulated version; Coriolan and its newer incarnation; Arsene Lupin (previously known as Dandy). The latter is one of my favorite perfumes in general, masculine or not.
Histoires de Parfums 1740 (De Sade). A rich and spicy leather that will get your imagination flowing.
Chanel Egoiste. It's a variation on the theme of Bois des Iles. You can't go wrong with that.
Terre d'Hermes (especially the parfum). It may be a bit of a cliche on a man, but we give this iconic perfume a new life. Kind of like those of us who used to borrow our fathers' Ralph Lauren Polo.
Speaking of best-sellers, Thierry Mugler A*Men. Who doesn't like a good gourmand?
All the MPG masculines, especially Parfum d'Habit, Iris Bleu Gris, and Centaure. Way better than the brand's feminine offering.
Anything Amouage. My current top picks are Interlude Man and Lyric Man, but really, each and every one of them is brilliant.
Penhaligon's- Sartorial. Steam and lavender. Like borrowing his crisp white shirt.

Photo of Katharine Hepburn in Sylvia Scarlett via Dr.Macro.

Clarisonic & The Middle Aged Woman

2013-05-14T13:06:00.000-04:00

Once upon a time during our 1980s teenhood most of us equated clean and clear skin with the rigorous cleansing and scrubbing that removed every last bit of oils from the surface. Those were the days of Noxzema for cleansing and Oxy5 (or 10) when that failed. The result, of course, was usually tight, dry and flaking patches of skin, but hey-- isn't dry better than greasy?

Most of us know better now.

Our skin is more complex than that. We want it soft, smooth, and supple. We want it to look healthy and full of life, which means well-hydrated. And we want it clean, which means a full removal of makeup, grime, goop and skin debris. We also know that active skin care as well as nourishment is more effective on clean skin, so removing dirt and dead skin cells is just as important for moisturizing as it is for clear pores. These days I achieve this sloughing through gentle chemical exfoliation (glicolic, lactic and mandelic acids) as well as as by using a Clarisonic brush a couple of times a week.

It's nothing new. I bought my Clarisonic about two and a half years ago, so I've certainly had enough time to figure things out. I liked it from the very beginning because this is a very effective tool, but my love for it has grown the more I've learned and as I've refined its use. It can be summed up as "If it hearts you're probably doing it wrong". Here are a few points to consider:

1. Clarisonic has several brush head options. Unless your skin is ultra thick and coarse, go with the Delicate brush head. There's absolutely no reason for anything abrasive to touch your skin.
2. The one and only secret for using the Clarisonic is to hold it parallel to the skin, touching lightly, and just moving it in circular motions, never ever ever (ever) pressing or pushing it. It takes a while to fully get it because the first instinct is to brush or "help" it. Don't. Just don't. The whole point is the sonic oscillation that does the work, just like with your sonic toothbrush. You already know not to scrub your gums forcefully, right? The same goes for your face.
3. Use your favorite rinse-off cleanser. Skip the stuff that comes with the brush and don't start experimenting with new skincare when you first learn to use the Clarisonic.

I see two main benefits from using this little gadget: an improved skin texture, as the brush truly removes the stuff that doesn't belong on my face; as a result, everything else that I apply to my skin is more effective: serums, creams, oils-- they all go in faster and work better. The result is a more hydrated, clearer, and healthier looking face. As far as I'm concerned this isn't about scrubbing and exfoliating. It's about getting my sort-of-normal-leaning-dry-42-year-old skin to look its best.

I have the basic Clarisonic brush ($159) that comes with a charger that sits on my bathroom counter. I usually use it in the shower 2-3 times a week with various creamy rinse-off cleanser or whatever I'm testing at the time. I only use the Delicate brush heads which I sanitize with alcohol every once in a while (and once with Listerine when that was the only thing I had on hand) and replace when the hair looks like it has seen better days. I love my brush enough to consider also getting the travel-friendly Clarisonic Mia. Both can be found at Nordstrom, Sephora, Beauty.com, and Dermstore.

Images: Top Models Of The World and Clarisonic.com.

Dior Addict Extreme Lipstick: Fireworks & Paparazzi

2013-05-14T11:53:00.000-04:00

It's true that Dior has too many lip products named Dior Addict in several variations. It makes it hard to keep track, remember what you already tried or even get excited about new Dior Addict releases. I guess I'm a bad blogger for taking my time getting around to playing with Dior Addict Extreme Lipstick, but when I finally picked them a month or two ago, I was utterly delighted with them.

Dior Addict Extreme is a less shiny and more intensely pigmented formula than the regular Dior Addict lipsticks. They last longer and leave a darker stain without compromising the moisturizing and soothing effect. I get about 6 hours of wear and the stain survives a drink and a snack.

I chose two colors: Fireworks (756), a medium classic red, and Paparazzi (866), which is a red plum. My own lip color makes both of them pull a bit more rosy, but as I apply two even coats with a brush I get a good coverage that's more true to the color in the tube. These Dior lipsticks feel comfortable, nourishing and don't accentuate lines and scars, making them a great choice for long days or important events.

Bottom Line: yup, Addict is a good name.

Dior Addict Extreme Lipsticks ($31 each) are available at the counters and from Sephora, in store and online.

Currently- May 2013

2013-05-14T00:08:00.003-04:00

Book
Mrs Queen Takes The Train by William Kuhn. An Elizabeth II novel. One is utterly amused.

Music
Linda Draper- Sleepwalker from her new album Edgewise (out May 21st). I heard the song the other night on WFUV and I can't wait till iTunes have it.

Perfume
Histoires de Parfums- 1740 Marquis de Sade. A spicy ambery dark leather. No idea why I never reviewed it. Will rectify soon.

Makeup
Coral lips and nails. But less expected than that, I rediscovered the jar of MAC Blue Brown pigment and fell in love all over again.

Frequently Worn
Light jersey dresses of every length. Scarves and funky jewelry make them less boring.

Food
Cranberries, tomatoes, carrot juice. If it's red or orange I will eat it.

Shame Inducing Guilty Pleasure
Indulging in more royal biographies.

Bane
The vacuum cleaner is on its last legs. These appliances don't die of old age in our house.

Joy
A few days off.

Anticipation
Kittens.

Wishlist
Anything Maiyet, but especially their Gehry bags.

Random Thought
If the upcoming Estee Lauder perfume Modern Muse is Lauder's "most comprehensive women’s scent statement since the 2003 launch of Beyond Paradise" (WWD, May 3, 2013) or as their global brand president "the most important fragrance moment we’ve had in a decade", what exactly do they call Adventurous (2011), Amber Mystique (2013), Azuree Soleil Whatever (2007), Beautiful Love (2006), Beautiful Precious Drops (2006), Beautiful Spring Veil (who cares?), Beautiful Summer Bouquet (2006), Beautiful Summer Fun (2007 and 2008), Beyond Paradise Blue, Beyond Paradise Summer Fun (seriously), Brazil Dream (2008), Bronze Goddess (too many to count), Emerald Dream (vile beyond your dreams, 2006), Intuition Summer In Bloom (2004), Pleasures Artist's Edition (I don't want to know), Pleasures Baie Rose Peony Splash (2009), Pleasures Bloom, Pleasures Delight, Pleasures Eau Fraiche, Pleasures Exotic, Pleasures Jasmine Violet Splash, Pleasures Pop, Pleasures Sandalwood Amber Splash, Pleasures Summer Fun, Private Collection Amber Ylang, Private Collection Jasmine White Moss, Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia, Pure White Linen and five more flankers of this flanker, Very Estee (2012), Wild Elixir (2011), Wood Mystique (2011) and of course Sensuous in three concentrations, two extra flankers and Gywneth Paltrow without pants?
I call it a cynical company that has lost respect for its customers.

How about you? Please share your thoughts, recommendations, loves and banes.

Top image: Woman and Cats (1969) by Will Barnet

Dolce & Gabbana Eva Illuminator & Tan Blush: Highlighting & Contouring

2013-05-13T15:50:00.003-04:00

Among the many face products in the Dolce & Gabbana line there's also The Illuminator -Glow Illuminating Powder in two shades: Eva 3 and Shimmer 6. The latter is pink-based, so I skipped it, but Eva, a nude beige powder with a smooth finish, seemed like the right choice.

Now, despite the name and some of the marketing materials this Dolce & Gabbana Illuminating Powder is not a highlighter. It's a light reflecting powder that's more of a finishing product than a topical illuminator. Eva works along the same lines of Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powder in the way it diffuses light and creates a soft glow with no visible particles (Hourglass Ambient Lighting comes in several shades, though, and some are more glowing than others). I like the silky softness of this powder, but it's colorless and subdued that when it comes to allover sheer light diffusing and a perfect photoshopped finish I much prefer the loose powder from NARS (that I still need to review. I know, it's been months), and for adding a visible glow Hourglass is far superior.

The other side of the shade/illuminate equation is contouring. With my facial structure I do this less on my impossible to find cheekbones (I have none) but more to narrow the nose and define my jawline. Dolce & Gabbana Luminous Cheek Color in Tan #22 is a good product for this purpose. This nude tan blush has no hint of orange. It's a very neutral shade, light enough not to require an hour of diffusing but visible and effective. The texture is soft and smooth (Dolce & Gabbana blushes have many fans because of their silky finish), and it's easy to work with.

The packaging of Dolce & Gabbana products is sturdy and detailed. One might not be crazy about the blinding gold, but it's luxurious and nice in its way. The Illuminator's (half decent) brush comes in a separate pocket attached to the compact's velveteen pouch. Blushes are packaged more traditionally with a scratchy little brush inside the compact.

Bottom Line: Tan is definitely worth trying if you're after a nice contour powder. The Illuminator is overpriced for its quality and performance.

Dolce & Gabbana Eva Illuminator ($50) & Tan Blush ($45) are available from Saks and Sephora.

Charlotte Tilbury’s House of Rock’n’Kohl At Selfridges

2013-05-13T12:38:00.002-04:00

Another reason to wish I were in London this summer: Selfridges (aka The Other Mothership) will host Charlotte Tilbury’s House of Rock’n’Kohl, a week long beauty event ( June 17 to 23) that will include makeovers, beauty advice and panel discussions with a variety of figures, as well as makeup bag clear-out sessions. This is an interesting event not just because Charlotte Tilbury is one of the biggest names in makeup artistry (are you following her YouTube channel?), but due to the fact that this isn't a brand/product-driven affair. The focus is supposed to be looking at beauty at a social and cultural context (I'm curious what that means to Selfridges). There are some celebrities and visual artists expected appearances and a light installation portrait of Kate Moss will be unveiled in one of the store’s windows.

If you're in London the week of June 17 to 23 will you be going? I'm very curious about this event and would love to hear opinions and impressions.

Photo of Charlotte Tilbury at Milan S/S 2013 Fashion Week last September via contessanally.blogspot.com. Info about Charlotte Tilbury’s House of Rock’n’Kohl At Selfridges via WWD.

Dior- New Look 1947 (La Collection Privee)

2013-05-12T23:17:00.000-04:00

“We were emerging from the period of war, of uniforms, of women-soldiers built like boxers. I drew women-flowers, soft shoulders, fine waists like liana and wide skirts like corolla." ---Christian Dior quoted in The New Look: The Dior Revolution, by Nigel Cawthorne. London: Hamlyn, 1996

When I first smelled New Look 1947 from Dior La Collection Privee shortly after it was released my first thought was that this 2010 fragrance is a natural descendant of the original line of classic Dior perfume. Not because this soft floral resembles any of the familiar masterpieces, but it has a marvelous elegance that really says: Dior!

Perfumer François Demachy was charged with creating an olfactory homage to Christian Dior's 1947 iconic fashion collection, The New Look. To do so he blended the ultra-feminine tuberose & co. in a wonderful abstract way that doesn't let any of the often heady components take over or create a noisy drama. Instead, we get a soft and powdery floral, a bit dreamy and languid, that walks in measured steps fully aware of its pedigree and lineage. New Look 1947 is a modern interpretation of a classic idea: a heart built around the iris-rose-jasmine trio is as French as they come, but the cheeky tuberose with its touch of green replaces the traditional aldehydes in elevating the core floral notes.

Similarly, one might expect to have a smooth and creamy vanilla-sandalwood base to hold everything together, but the sandalwood available to us these days is usually not of couture quality. Dior La Collection Privee aspires to represents the true character of this luxury house, thus inferior materials have no place there. Instead, we get a very similar effect through the use of ylang-ylang and benzoin. For a moment there I could almost smell a phantom Mysore sandalwood. The beautiful dry-down of Dior New Look 1947 is as abstract as the rest of it, and just as luxurious. It's a long-lasting, soft and intimate. The fragrance is incredibly lady-like and polite, it remains in one's personal space for most of the day, adding a chic finishing touch to whatever else you're wearing.

Notes: Tuberose, Ylang ylang, Iris, Damask rose, Sambac jasmine, Peony, Vanilla, Benzoin.

Dior- New Look 1947 ($155, 4.25oz) and the rest of La Collection Privee are available at Bergdorf Goodman, select Neiman Marcus locations, Dior boutiques and Dior.com (at least in the USA).

Top image: Christian Dior 1947 couture show via Dior.com.
Second image: Christian Dior The Bar look, Spring/Summer haute couture 1947, Corolle collection. Photo: Patrick Demarchelier via http://en.vogue.fr .

Happy Mother's Day

2013-05-12T00:00:00.000-04:00

Photo of Catherine Duchess Of Cambridge: Getty via Zimbio

Faberge- Woodhue (Vintage Perfume)

2013-05-09T21:01:00.000-04:00

I remember Fabergé in the 1970s as a drugstorish brand, and honestly, I'm more familiar with their shower and bath products to which I'm horribly allergic. But looking at some of the old bottles and packaging from the 60s I now realize how pretty they are, and like many products of yore, have an elegance missing today even from more expensive items.

Woodhue by Faberge originally came out in 1944 and was released in both a masculine and a feminine version. The bottle I found in full packaging is the feminine Cologne Extraordinaire from the 60s or very early 70s. I knew very little about it when I got the bottle except that it's supposed to be rather unisex and obviously wood-themed. I was thrilled to discover that Woodhue is a woody chypre with a spicy undercurrent. The wood, a somewhat thin cedar-sandalwood blend, smells appropriately aged and smooth, laced with something that smells to me like cinnamon and clove. The juice in my bottle has little to no top notes-- citrus, jasmine (and some say orange blossom as well). It's all about the base, which isn't a bad deal, since we're talking a really nice sandalwood here, a pungent musk and a mossy vetiver that has a vintage feel to it.

Fabergé perfumes disappeared years ago. Another company bought the rights to the names and perhaps also the formula, but I have no idea what they smell like. Personally, I'm more curious about the Parfum Extraordinaire concentration of Fabergé fragrances; I don't think I ever came across the bottles you see in the ad above. You can also read Barbara's impression on Yesterday's Perfume. Don't skip the comment section there for even more information.

Chanel Le Vernis Taboo (583)

2013-05-09T13:55:00.001-04:00

While my biggest love of this season when it comes to nail polish is bright coral (see Chanel Lilis and NARS Vertebra, both Summer 2013 limited edition releases), the rainy spell we're having calls for something else. Enter Chanel Taboo (#583) that was released this spring. Taboo offers something nobody does quite as well as Chanel Le Vernis: an incredibly complex multi-colored shimmer in a shade that's hard to define: kind of plum with burgundy and purple genes.

Chanel Le Vernis Taboo has a metallic finish that downplays the shimmer, making it a grownup choice. It's far less purple than Vendetta, making it a bit less edgy, in my opinion, and very wearable (and also quite flattering against my skin). I agree with Sabrina from The Beauty Look Book that Taboo changes with light. My photos were taken a few weeks ago in full blazing sun. It becomes more purple or slightly more plummy red under different light sources (yellow or low artificial light brings out the red).

I love this particular formula of Chanel metallic/shimmer polish-- it goes on without streaking and is relatively long-lasting (tip-wear starts around the third day, but I'm notoriously rough on my nails).

Bottom Line: another Chanel classic.

Chanel Le Vernis Taboo ($27) is available at the counters and online.

Anne Hathaway's Blond Style

2013-05-09T12:26:00.001-04:00

Anne Hathaway debuted her new blond hair earlier this week at the Met Gala (photo below). Her hair and makeup sort of followed the punk theme of the evening, so it was interesting to see what elements of that Anne chose to keep afterwards. The photo above is from the 2013 Tate Americas Foundation Artists Dinner that Anne Hathaway attended last night (Wednesday) in NYC. She's still very very blonde, but the style is softer with a 1960s vibe.

Makeup-wise, both looks feature a natural pink lip color and a very defined eye: lots black eyeliner, shimmery silver eye shadow. It's bolder than what we're used to see from Anne, and quite flattering. After all, her big brown eyes are one of her greatest assets. One noticeable difference between the Met Gala look and the one from yesterday is the eyebrows. Anne's punk makeup left her eyebrows at what appears to be their completely natural state, while the sleek look also included a more precise eyebrow.

What do you think? Do you like Anne Hathaway's blond hair? Should she keep the edgy makeup?

Photos: Getty via Zimbio.

Rochas- Tocade

2013-05-08T21:24:00.003-04:00

Let's start at the end, because I know there's some misinformation out there: Tocade, a 1994 Maurice Roucel creation for the house of Rochas, is still in production. The perfume license of Rochas is held by Procter & Gamble (their Prestige department, I hope) and the company employs perfumer Jean-Michel Duriez, so we can assume that he's responsible for the current formulation and for any change made from the original Roucel version. Now, in the US Tocade as well as the other Rochas fragrances are mostly available from online discounters and mall kiosks, usually priced under $50, but in Europe it's sold full price at regular perfume stores (such as Marionnaud in France).

Now that this is out of the way we can actually talk about Tocade, a little rosy gem with a delectable (read: yummy) musky vanilla base. Looking at the official note list (bergamot, freesia, green note, geranium, rose, jasmine, orris, muguet, orchid, cedar, patchouli, amber, musk, vanilla. Via Atlas Olfactif) one might assume that Tocade opens light and fresh. But the bergamot and green notes merely keep the rose and powdery notes from taking over too quickly.

As the rose fully unfolds it reminds me of another under-appreciated perfume: Cabaret de Gres. It's not that these modern fragrance from classic fashion houses smell the same (Cabaret is very much a chypre while Tocade is firmly in the oriental camp), but there's something about the rose-orris-muguet heart that feels related. Then the fun begins. Maurice Roucel has a way with gourmand notes and Tocade is another example of that. The base of this fragrance is a thick and slightly chewy amber enriched with patchouli and a smoky vanilla. I consider the vanilla note the main event here: it takes the powdery rose into Turkish delight territory, rosewater scented milky rice pudding and a slightly burnt vanilla bean. It's irresistible.

My Tocade bottle is older and probably of the original formula (a red box with gold print, red cap with a blue neck). I haven't smelled the current formula but Luca Turin still gives it five stars in The Guide.

Top image: young Jane Fonda via Stirred, Straight Up, With A Twist.

Lancome Timeless Taupe Color Design Infinite 24H Cream Eye Shadow

2013-05-08T12:35:00.000-04:00

When Lancome first launched their Color Design Infinite 24H cream eye shadow range I chose to take the road less traveled by and picked Forever Noir, an intense shimmer black. Yes, of course I knew Lancome also offered a taupe (and also khaki, jade as well as several other beauties), but just how many taupe colored eye shadows does one need?

As many as possible, apparently.

Lancome Color Design Infinite 24 H is a long lasting non-budging cream eye shadow. Timeless taupe has a beautiful metallic finish, a smooth and soft texture, and the color itself is among the most perfect taupes: not too brown, not too gray-- just right. I've heard it compared to some of the most legendary discontinued Shu Uemura taupe eye shadows, but I think it stands beautifully on its own.

Lancome Color Design Infinite 24 H eye shadows come in a little glass pot with an inner press lid that keeps air out of the product. I wish all brands that make cream eye shadows would add this little device because it prevents drying and flaking.

Bottom Line: a must have.

Lancome Timeless Taupe Color Design Infinite 24H Cream Eye Shadow ($24.50) is available at the counters, Sephora and lancome-usa.com.

Chanel Rouge Coco Shine Cavaliere & Rebelle

2013-05-08T11:17:00.000-04:00

My recent purchase of Chanel Rouge Coco Shine in Pygmalion from the Summer 2013 collection reminded me how much I love this range of sheer-yet-pigmented lipsticks. Since Chanel released Rouge Coco Shine two years ago I've managed to use up at least two of the six colors I had, so I went back and checked what else was in there.

Rebelle (#63) and Cavaliere (#65) were partof the original 2011 release and are still available (though probably not for long: Chanel lists them in the "Encore" section of the website). Rebelle is a bright red, somewhere between a tomato and an apple. Cavaliere is a purple/brown raisin color with far less shimmer on the lips than appears in the tube. Both are pretty and right on trend. Both lipsticks leave a stain behind that lasts longer than the shiny finish. They're easy to apply and quite low maintenance.

Bottom Line: pretty!

Chanel Rouge Coco Shine Cavaliere & Rebelle ($34 each) are available at the counters and from chanel.com.

Amouage- Lyric Man

2013-05-07T23:57:00.000-04:00

I always keep some Lyric Woman by Amouage on hand for special occasions. It's a brilliant incense rose perfume, polished and glowing like a diamond. I have no idea why it took me so long to fall in love with its counterpart, Amouage Lyric Man, a masculine rose perfume that is somewhat mellower than Lyric Woman, and smoother around the edges.

Amouage Lyric Man opens quite green and almost zesty. It adopts a tree bark quality as the fragrance folds and becomes sweeter, while the angelica note takes center stage. I can't get enough of it as I adore angelica in just about any form-- herbal, syrupy or rooty. It's my catnip. This is where Lyric Man wins over Woman for me: the note exists in both, but Lyric Man is... more angelic, I guess.

The dry-down of Lyric Man is another marvelous example of the way Amouage uses incense. It's not smoky, churchy or meditative. Instead, the frankincense is infused with spices, especially saffron, that somehow feels like the natural transition from the green angelica heart. It smells sumptuous, rich and very very luxurious.

But what about the rose?!
Amouage Lyric Man deserves its own place in my list of rose perfumes for anti-rose people. The rose is obviously there, and I can smell it in every stage of the development. But it's almost abstract, or at least doesn't try to imitate a live flower. Instead, perfumer Daniel Visentin who created Lyric used the beautiful rose note to support and even contrast the other things that are happening there. The velvet feel of the petals against the harder edges of bergamot and galbanum or the sharpness of the spices. The rose is almost low-key but not quite: just when you think that Lyric Man is a wood, spice, and frankincense perfume you breathe it in and realize just how refined and elegantly woven is the olfactory fabric that makes up this complex scent.

Some men prefer to wear Lyric Woman because it's bolder and darker. The frankincense in the base of Amouage Lyric Man is gentler than in Woman, where I find that it can be a bit too much at times. Perhaps that's why my very personal preference is for Man and why now I'm intensely coveting a bottle-- I know that I'll wear it a lot more than the diva Woman.

Notes: Bergamot, lime, rose, angelica, orange blossom, green galbanum, spicy ginger, nutmeg, saffron, pine, sandalwood, vanilla, musk, frankincense.

Amouage Lyric Man ($255, 50ml EDP) is available from Luckyscent, MiN NY, Aedes, Bergdorf Goodman and select Neiman Marcus locations.

Top image by Joseph Christian Leyendecker, circa 1915.