The Non-Blonde

Aroma M Camellia Hair Oil

2013-05-23T13:49:00.001-04:00

You know that a product is special when you finish a generous sample and instantly order the full size, pondering getting a crate full of the stuff. I was good and only bought one bottle for now, but I must tell you: Aroma M Camellia Hair Oil makes my hair look and feel incredible. It also smells heavenly.

Many of you probably know Aroma M for the Geisha perfumes. Geisha Noire is on my short list of favorite perfumes and I'm in awe of the creativity and work of Maria McElroy. She has now added a face oil (review coming soon) and this Camellia Hair Oil that nourishes, softens, and leaves and incredible shine-- I have other excellent oils, but none makes my hair this shiny. The difference is very noticeable.

Aroma M Camellia Hair Oil is all-natural and uses organic essential oils (tuberose and rosemary, jasmine, and frankincense) and organic cold pressed oils of the best kind: camellia oil, argan oil, and jojoba oil. I apply to slightly damp hair, re-wrap my hair in a towel for a few more minutes and allow the oil to do its thing. No need to rinse. I also add a drop or two before styling (or rather what stands for styling in my case) and to tame frizz.

Ingredients: Organic Camellia Seed Oil,Organic Virgin Argan Oil, Organic Golden Jojoba Oil, Organic Rosemary Oil, Tuberose Oil.

Aroma M Camellia Hair Oil ($65, 1.6oz) is available from Luckyscent and directly from Aroma M website: aromam.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=aromam&Category_Code=5 (copy and paste the address, since it's a bit hard to find on the site). The original sample for this review was sent to me free of charge.

Jo Loves- The Mango Collection

2013-05-22T23:05:00.000-04:00

Jo Loves...- Mango Nectar, A Shot Of Oud Over Mango, A Shot Of Thai Lime Over Mango

Life Style entrepreneur Jo Malone sold her company to Estee Lauder in 1999 but stayed on board until 2006. She left her name to Lauder and had to start from scratch when she was ready to come back after a battle with breast cancer. The new company, Jo Loves, launched the first scents in 2011 and added four more in 2012, including the three fragrances of the Mango Collection which we'll talk about today. At first Jo Loves perfumes and candles were only available in the UK, but now they're shipping to the US.

I decided to start with the Mango Collection because this note used to be far out of my comfort zone.But Neela Vermiere has taught me a lesson with her wonderful Bombay Bling, so now I'm eager to see what else is out there.

Mango Nectar (notes: mango leaf, bitter orange, pink grapefruit, mango nectar, apricot blossom, jasmine, musk). This one is decidedly not for me. Mango Nectar is a sweet fruity-floral, very juicy, very sunshiny and a bit too Bath & Body Whatever. The opening is downright scary after the initial burst of orange juice-- it's all Tropicana all the time, but it mellows into a mellow white floral and sweet musk. Surprisingly, Mango Nectar is the least tenacious of the three on my skin, but in this case I'm not complaining.

A Shot Of Thai Lime Over Mango (notes: mango, kaffir lime, black pepper, freesia, mint leaves, white thyme absolute, vetiver) is the fun one. The fragrance opens with a huge kaffir lime note in all its green and lime-like glory. It's green, herbal and zesty in the best possible way. I can't get enough of this and if there was a matching body butter or even a shower gel I would have already ordered it. The mango in A Shot Of Thai Lime is not too sweet and maintains the green quality that makes this an exotic treat. The dry-down is more green- this time grassy thanks to the vetiver. It's also gender neutral and easy to wear.

A Shot Of Oud Over Mango (notes: mango, black pepper, freesia, oud wood) is the sexy surprise. Even if you're already over the oud trend in perfumery this Jo Loves fragrance is still worth your time, because apparently what oud has been missing all along is a lighthearted infusion of mango. Who knew? A Shot Of Oud is a game of contradictions: light and shadow, cool and warm. There's a hint of incense somewhere in the core, making the perfume even more interesting. A Shot Of Oud is obviously my favorite of the trio and the longest lasting in this Jo Loves collection. It's also an original and unexpected creation and the husband's favorite.

Jo Loves... The Mango Collection: Mango Nectar, A Shot Of Oud Over Mango, A Shot Of Thai Lime Over Mango (£45.00, 30ml EDP) is available exclusively from joloves.com. Please note that they can only ship this small size outside of the UK because of the currents restrictions and regulations (and shipping to the US is priced at £20.00. Ouch). The samples for this review were sent by the company.

Images-
Mango by Jean Heelen
A vintage seed packet via an online auction
Paul Gaugin, Woman With A Mango, 1892
Underneath The Mango Tree by Ruth Sampson

Estee Lauder Pink Ingenue & Peach Passion Pure Color Blush

2013-05-22T14:04:00.001-04:00

A gift-with-purchase event has allowed me to try a couple of Estee Lauder Pure Color Blush shades: Pink Ingenue 05 and Peach Passion 08 (also a Bronze Goddess bronzer in Light 01, which I'll talk about tomorrow). Estee Lauder Pure Color blushes are a solid performer with an excellent texture that is too often overlooked in favor of brands with an edgier image. It's a shame, really, because the pigment intensity is superb despite the almost sheer quality that makes these Lauder blushes work with one's skin without looking painted. The finely milled texture is one of the best you can find at your local Macy's.

Pink Ingenue is my favorite of the two. It's a very organic medium rose that adds life to the skin. It's more pink than Alluring Rose which is still my favorite, but still almost universal in its appeal. Peach Passion is not my thing. I know peach and orangeish blushes are summer favorites for many but they tend to clash with the green undertones of my skin. No matter how light and glowy Peach Passion looks when swatched it does nothing for my face unless I mix it with another color. Still, if this is your kind of color I do recommend that you give it a try- the finish is very pretty and on the right complexion I'm sure this is fab.

The swatches above were done very lightly with the crappy little brush that came in the GWP compact. I'd say that just any good blush brush you already own will suffice. The blushes have great color payoff and are easy to apply and blend. Estee Lauder Pure Color blushes meld with the skin very easily and last for the entire day (over a good base) with or without a finishing powder.

Estee Lauder Pink Ingenue & Peach Passion Pure Color Blush ($28 each) are available at the counters and from esteelauder.com. The products in this review were a GWP and didn't come in the regular Pure Color size/packaging.

Essie Apricot Cuticle Oil

2013-05-22T13:03:00.002-04:00

The only issue with Essie Apricot Cuticle Oil is that it makes me crave apricots in the worst way and we're still not quite in the right season for fresh local organic fruit. Other than that, Essie offers a nice treat for nails and cuticles in the form of a sweet (and delightfully smelling) oil that sinks right into the skin and doesn't leave any greasiness behind.

Essie Apricot Cuticle Oil is an instant feel good treatment. I'm not yet sure how much of the long time effect is really due to the oil itself and how much is the result of paying attention and pampering my nails and cuticles often, but the bottom line is that this is an effective treatment.

Looking at the list of ingredients (below) I was somewhat disappointed to discover that the only apricots in Essie Apricot Cuticle Oil come from the fragrance used in the product. The oil itself is a blend of cottonseed and and soybean oils enriched with vitamin A and collagen. Nevertheless it is a good and easy treat (not to mention cheap)-- you just brush it over nails and cuticles and massage it in. Do remember to wipe away any oil before applying base and color polish. Your nails need to be oil free for a manicure to hold.

Ingredients: Cottonseed Oil, PPG 15 Stearyl Ether, Polysorbate 81, Soybean (Glycine Soja) Oil, Vitamin A Palminate (A269), Vitamin E Acetate, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Fragrance, Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, D&C Violet 2 (CI 60725), D&C Red 17.

Essie Apricot Cuticle Oil ($8) is available at Nordstrom, Ulta, Target, and Beauty.com.

Art: Apricot Delight by Priska Wettstein.

M.Micallef- Pomelos

2013-05-21T23:07:00.001-04:00

Here's something easy and light for the oppressive summer weather we're heaving: Pomelos by M.Micallef. Despite the name (and the notes listed on Fragrantica), Pomelos is far less about citrus fruit than it is about powdery flowers. This 2002 Micallef perfume opens with a breeze carrying a whiff from a lemon grove and settles on the skin in a heap of tiny pollen-laden blossoms. The fragrance has the sheerest hint of fruit, mostly in the musky dry-down, a touch of fuzzy peach skin and peachy smelling iris (sounds crazy, but if you're familiar with the subtle iris note in Serge Lutens Daim Blond or Clair de Musc you probably know what I'm talking about).

Pomelos makes me think of a blush-colored silk dress. It clings to the body here and there but still looks and feels demure. So does the fragrance. The pretty heavy white musk of the dry-down is of the very clean variety, though it's not laundryish. The impression it gives is of a weather-blanched driftwood, which contributes to the summer beach in late afternoon image. Said shore scene is probably more of a wishful thinking than anything grounded in reality (or in actual perfume notes). What I do know for sure is that Micellef's Pomelos is a pretty chill perfume. It's casual and relaxing, somewhat lacking in longevity (about four hours unless I really go to town spraying) and a good fit for the heat and insane humidity of this week.

Notes: pomelo, lemon, tangerine, jasmine, rose, iris, lily of the valley, cedar, sandalwood, white musk.

Pomelos by M.Micallef ($89, 1 oz EDP) is available from Osswald in NYC and Parfum1.com.

Art: Pomelos by Pierre Farel

Ginnifer Goodwin: Two Makeup Looks

2013-05-21T15:10:00.000-04:00

I know that not all of you share my love for Ginnifer Goodwin, but I can't help it. I find her adorable and unique looking. She also seems to enjoy makeup and is not averse to taking some risks (yes, yes, I know. Her Met Gala look-- below-- was beyond atrocious, but I'm trying to repress that memory).

Ginnifer's Met Gala punk look

The two looks above are from last week. Ginnifer attended the Disney Media Networks International Upfronts sporting a cat eye and a purple (or fuchsia. Depending on the light and the angle) lip color. Her chosen outfit was less sharp. The Theory jumpsuit was simply not pretty or flattering, and even a blazer couldn't save it (to see a good jumpsuit have a look at the stunning Solange Knowles). I'm still trying to determine if the blush Ginnifer clashes too much with the lipstick. At least it's interesting.

Ginnifer Goodwin arrives at the Disney Media Networks International 'Upfronts 2013'

Ginnifer Goodwin and boyfriend, Josh Dallas, Vogue and MAC Cosmetics dinner hosted by Lisa Love and John Demsey in honour of Prabal Gurung

The other look from Monday night the previous week was softer. The shimmery taupe eye shadow took center stage (and complemented her Prabal Gurung dress), accompanied by natural looking lip and cheek. Those of you with a encyclopedic MAC knowledge may be able to identify the eye shadow(s) used-- the company was the co-host of the Vogue dinner honoring Prabal Gurung.

Which makeup look is your favorite?

All photos of Ginnifer Goodwin via Zimbio.

Shiseido High Beam White Luminizing Satin Face Color

2013-05-21T14:21:00.001-04:00

I love highlighters. I love them in liquid, cream and powder form. I love them golden, pearly or with a champagne tint. I love them shiny or muted. I just love the way highlighters can give the skin an extra shot of pretty. Shiseido High Beam White is probably considered a classic by now. It's the most subtle of its kind, as understated than Kevyn Aucoin Candlelight, but a bit easier to catch in a photo because Shiseido is pearly white. I swatched heavily using the scratchy little brush that came in the compact. Normal application (a small Yachiyo or Laura Mercier fan brush are far more suitable, as is Chikuhodo Z2) will not look as white and will add just a little bit of light where you need it.

Donating my face to science I once tried using Shiseido High Beam White as an allover finishing powder. Don't try this at home. As finely milled as Shiseido makes this product it is not a substitute for Guerlain Meteorites. The effect was like using Rouge Bunny Rouge Sea Of Unicorns or whatever they call their liquid highlighters (which I love. They're beyond beautiful) on your entire face over foundation. Not a good look for an adult woman.

In any case, Shiseido High Beam White Luminizing Satin Face Color is an excellent highlighter. If you're very warm-toned maybe it will be too white (Shiseido also makes a pale gold version that's too yellow for my green undertones), so do test at the counter before you decide.

Bottom Line: there's a reason why Shiseido makeup is so revered.

Shiseido High Beam White Luminizing Satin Face Color ($30) is available at the counters, Sephora and shiseido.com. It's part of the blush range.

Chanel Gardenia (Les Exclusifs EDT)

2013-05-21T00:07:00.002-04:00

As Chanel makeup line is evolving and becoming more innovative and sophisticated than ever before, the fragrance line seems to be taking steps in the opposite direction. We all know that everything was reformulated, diluted and cheapened (while the retail price climbs higher and higher); Chanel Gardenia, formerly part of the boutique line that included Cuir de Russie and Bois des Iles, was assimilated into Les Exclusifs range, the big vats of EDT (now also in somewhat more reasonable bottles and the extrait is back as well). While I was never a huge fan of Chanel Gardenia I did have some respect for its very blonde elegance. However, testing the most recent version of the eau de toilette left me more flabbergasted with Chanel than ever before.

It's no secret that Gardenia was never a true gardenia scent. As a matter of fact, Turin/Sanchez labeled it as a "Not Gardenia", and who can blame them? While gardenia as a note is pretty hard to capture in a realistic way (the flower is nearly impossible to extract and tincture), there are many interesting approximations on the market, older and new (here are several favorites-- without searching and just from immediate memory: Goutal Un Matin d'Orage, JAR Jardenia and Bolt Of Lightning, Arquiste Boutonniere no. 7, Isabey Gardenia, Tom Ford Velvet Gardenia, Ineke Hothouse Flower, and the brilliant Serge Lutens Une Voix Noire). So what exactly is the point of a gardenia with none of the sultriness, sweet and salty aspects, or heady sensuality?

I can't figure it out. And I tried. I swear.

The current version of Chanel Gardenia opens with an abstract approximation of a very polite white floral. It's not quite tuberose, not quite orange blossom and only offers a hint of a beachy tropical humidity that may or may not be related to gardenia. I smell green leaves, something ripe and almost interesting behind the shockingly synthetic floral veil, but this hint of hope fades away quickly. The whole thing is as fake as a Taylor Swift relationship and has little presence, an ephemeral sillage and barely any personality. Chanel Gardenia is not bad: it's difficult to dislike something that's trying so hard to be pretty. And Gardenia is pretty in a very inoffensive and utterly forgettable way.

I like whatever is left on the skin after about five hours. It's a milky musk with a beachy undertone. If I had to choose between Gardenia and, say, Jennifer Aniston's fragrance there's no doubt I'd go with the smooth and more balanced Chanel, but that doesn't say much, does it? Chanel Gardenia in its current formula is the ghost of something that could have been great. The structure and cheekbones are there, just not the curves and flesh.

Chanel Gardenia ($130, 2.5oz EDT) is available at Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue flagship store, Chanel boutiques and chanel.com.

Images: La Chanelphile, Hprints, Chanel website and an old online auction.

Want: Diane Von Furstenberg Fall 2013 Dress

2013-05-20T13:30:00.000-04:00

DVF Fall 2013 looked extra promising when I saw the Fashion Week photos. I already earmarked a few looks (I add a couple of DVF classics to my wardrobe every season and wear them year after year), including Look No.30 from the runway seen here on Zoe Saldana (from her Friday night appearance on Jimmy Fallon's show). Obviously, this is a version of Diane von Furstenberg's classic wrap dress with an added keyhole neckline and more elaborate sleeves. I adore the print (there are some other great prints and patterns in this fall collection, including the one Diane herself was wearing at the end of her show). I have to say that I like Zoe in this dress a lot better than Cara Delevinge who modeled it. Zoe's Louboutins are prettier (and probably comfier. As much as I worship at the altar of DVF, the shoes are often so badly molded I can't stand in them for too long).

Photos of Zoe Saldana via Zimbio; DVF show via Style.com.

Hourglass Gypsy Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo

2013-05-20T12:45:00.001-04:00

Reviews of Hourglass eye shadow duos write themselves at this point. I received this duo in Gypsy directly from Hourglass and it joined the other ones I already have: the dramatic Prism, elegant tone-on-tone Suede, and classic Dune. Gypsy is a high contrast cream ivory/bronze combination with a smooth almost metallic shiny finish (no glitter or any particles).

The silky texture of Gypsy is the usual Hourglass luxurious fare. Both colors are easy to blend and can be used together or for a single shadow look. These are basic year-round shades. Nothing innovative about ivory and bronze, but it's the quality and performance that make Hourglass duos a must-have for me. They're among my quick and easy no-brainer makeup products: pretty and quick. Gypsy can also be the base of a hot summer with a touch of teal, turquoise or aqua along the lash line.

I always use a primer and find that Hourglass eye shadows maintain their intensity and finish from morning till night including on humid summer days. I hope eventually Hourglass will release a few more color combinations, and I definitely have to add Lagoon and Exhibition to my collection at some point. They've been calling my name for a while-- and just think of pairing Lagoon with Gypsy!

Hourglass Gypsy Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo ($38) is available at Bergdorf, Barnyes, and Sephora. The product for this review was supplied by the company free of charge.

Histoires de Parfums- 1740 Marquis De Sade

2013-05-19T23:45:00.000-04:00

"The imagination is the spur of delights... all depends upon it, it is the mainspring of everything; now, is it not by means of the imagination one knows joy? Is it not of the imagination that the sharpest pleasures arise?" ---Marquis de Sade

I can't say that I'm particularly crazy about Histoires de Parfums' decision to name this particular perfume after the 18th century uber-creep, Marquis de Sade. I do get what they were after, sort of. This Histoires des Parfums fragrance is meant to appeal to the dark side in all of us. It's unquestionably sexy, thick and leathery, seductive in its sweetness and very unique. The perfume is intriguing and at times cerebral. It's also addictive. I've been borrowing the husband's travel spray bottle pretty often, despite its being as non-spring a fragrance as they come.

There's something almost oily in the opening of 1740. In theory there's also bergamot in the top notes, but on me this thing goes right into the core and base with no niceties to break the ice. It always reminds me at first of Annick Goutal's Duel, before Histoires takes the Marquis even darker and sweeter. There's lots of spices, something that smells suspiciously like body heat (no cumin, surprisingly), a syrupy molasses-like note that is both dangerously poisonous and tempting, and leather. Lots and lots of soft black leather.

The gourmand honeyed thread that runs parallel to everything else going on in 1740 is what makes it stand out among other leather perfumes. It's so sweet you want to dive in and lick every last drop, just when the whip is cracked and you smell that this is not your grandma's kitchen with its pie drizzled with maple syrup. It's the other kind of delicious, the one that's less caloric but just as much fun. 1740 is also a shapeshifter. At times it smells quite impolite (the blending of labdanum and leather will do that, creating a carnal musky aroma), and other times the Marquis wears his aristocratic face and intellectual robe. It makes you stop and think about the thing you're smelling. Is it skin? is it the kitchen? or are you in a dungeon? Marquis de Sade, after all, spent long years in various prisons (and an insane asylum), including the Bastille.

I wear 1740 without hesitation. I love leather and adore immortelle, so it sits well with me. I don't think it's particularly masculine, despite being designated for men (and placed on the far right of Luckyscent's gender spectrum). Yes, it does smell fabulous and refined on the husband, so men with no fear of immortelle should go ahead and sample, as should everyone else. After all, I hear the Marquis didn't discriminate either.

Notes: Bergamot, Davana Sensualis (artemisia), Patchouli, Coriander, Cardamom, Cedar, Birch, Labdanum, Leather, Vanilla, Elemi, Immortelle.

Histoires de Parfums- 1740 Marquis De Sade ($125, 60ml EDP) is available from Luckyscent, Henri Bendel, BeautyHabit, MiN NY, and Aedes.

How To Shop For Vintage Perfume? Ask The Non-Blonde

2013-05-16T21:30:00.000-04:00

Sooner or later in your perfume journey the allure of masterpieces of the past will become too tempting to ignore. Or maybe you have a vague memory of something a beloved relative used to wear and you're yearning to find it again. No matter the reason, you are going to start looking for vintage perfumes, and if you're new to this particular obsession it can be confusing, overwhelming, heartbreaking or disappointing (and sometimes all of these at the same time). Here are a few points to consider if you're about to take a dive into the rabbit hole of vintage perfume.

1. Online shopping should be your very last resort. Eight, ten and even five years ago eBay was a great place to buy vintage perfume for pennies. So few people were interested in old juice and sellers offered these bottles as an afterthought. Nowadays it's a lucrative enough field to have professional crooks who buy empty bottles and fill them with who knows what. There are fake labels, watered down juice stretching that Chanel No. 5 drop into two bottles, and plain old thieves. On top of that there's also the issue that always existed: old juice may have turned on its own because of inadequate storage. You need to be aware that there's a risk there even if the seller is honest and reliable-- some things are out of his or her hands, and refund and return policies have become more complicated. If you've never smelled a certain perfume you'll have a hard time knowing if that's the real stuff in the bottle and proving that you even deserve a refund. So beware and rethink before you sink a crazy amount of money (that would have bought you a couple of new Amouage bottles at Luckyscent) into what may or may not be Chanel 46 (most likely it's not).

2. The safest and most satisfying way to get vintage stuff is in your immediate circle. Ask friends and relatives if they may have unwanted old bottles in the back of their closets. Some of the best stories I've heard about perfume treasures involved the linen closets of spinster aunts and grumpy old neighbors clearing out their attics. In the same way, yard sales and estate sales are also a great place to find stuff. People with no interest in perfume are prone to offer an unopened Guerlain gift set from the 60s next to their VSH tapes of Friends and for a similar price.

3. Thrift stores and Goodwill may hold some fine gems. Real antique stores are more tricky since many dealers prefer to only handle empty bottles (I don't even want to think about the priceless juice that went down the drain the process), and some of them have already caught up to the growing interest and raised their prices accordingly.

4. Don't disregard the cheapies. Of course, we all want to find that bottle of original Djedi. But with the dwindling supplies and growing demand for big names it's harder to find the grand perfumes from their heyday at even semi-reasonable prices. However, less known brands and even downright cheap ones from the 1950s, 1960s and even 70s are still worth a sniff and some of them are going to knock your socks off. Same goes for Avon. Most of the miniature bottles are beyond tacky, but the actual fragrances, especially those from the 70s were made with better raw materials than a lot of today's mainstream dreck. Have a sniff at Timeless or Charisma and you'll see what I mean.

Are you a vintage shopper? Please share your tips, ideas and experience, bad or good.

Photo: Life.com.

Those Were The Days- Fashion, Models, Makeup Part II

2013-05-16T13:08:00.000-04:00

This is the second part of our little trip back in time to the land of pink frosty lipsticks and other pleasures thanks to the amazing collection on Top Models Of The World.

Perhaps one of the best 1980s fashion looks:

And the worst:

Color!

Linda was the face of Yardley in the mid-90s. Is anyone familiar with Baroque perfume?

I loved Princess Stephanie:

Ads for musk perfumes were always hilarious:

I can't even:

Anjelica Huston:

Oh, Gia:

And finally, this one is for Lawrence in Ohio:

Guerlain Terracotta 4 Seasons Tailor-Made Bronzing Powder- Brunettes

2013-05-16T11:05:00.000-04:00

Nobody does bronzers like Guerlain. Every year they dazzle us with limited edition items from their Terracotta line in gorgeous designs inside and out. But today I'm going back to the "regular" Guerlain Terracotta 4 Seasons Tailor-Made Bronzing Powder because it's a repurchase-- I was 3/4 of the way through an older version of the 4 Seasons bronzer and even hit pan when I dropped the compact and what was left shattered to pieces (to the delight of the cats). I cleaned up and got rid of the mess, so I'm not sure which one I had before, but I replaced it with this Guerlain Terracotta 4 Seasons Tailor-Made Bronzing Powder in Brunettes. I could have just as easily gone with Blondes. Maybe I really should have done it, because as I know very well from my experience with Terracotta Light Sheer (the mosaic one that also has shimmer), Blonde is actually easier for me to wear.

In any case, Guerlain Terracotta 4 Seasons Tailor-Made Bronzing Powder in Brunettes is a beautiful product. The texture is matte but it imparts a certain understated glow to the skin. The four parts of the bronzer are different variations of natural bronze and the compact is large and wide enough so you can maneuver your brush between the four quarters and pick as much or as little as you want from each. The base undertones of this Guerlain bronzers are very warm and summery. I don't recommend using it as a contour, despite the perfect finish because it's just too sunny, at least on my neutral green not-quite-NC30-35 skin.

The pigment level in this Guerlain bronzer is beyond intense. I swatched gradually and you can see that the dark part is really dark. I used a regular blush brush for swatching, but obviously that's too dense for what most of us need. I recommend a very fluffy long haired brush that can create a sheer veil of color for the perfect sun-kissed look. The new limited edition Dior Summer Blush Brush is one, fan brushes will also perform well here (Laura Mercier, Louise Young or Hakuhodo), as will Yachiyo brushes (only touch the tip to the product-- that's more than enough) and Hakuhodo G5537 and G5538.

Bottom Line: a staple.

Guerlain Terracotta 4 Seasons Tailor-Made Bronzing Powder- Brunettes ($75) is available from the counters and at Sephora.

Packing Perfume For a Mini Vacation

2013-05-15T19:03:00.000-04:00

I remember my mother packing for a trip abroad years ago. She had an elegant refillable purse atomizer that she bought for the occasion at a nice cosmetics store. She decanted Chloe by Karl Lagerfeld, her one and only signature perfume, from the big bottle into the travel sprayer and that was it. She was all set. The other day I had a small moment of panic. The husband and I were unpacking our stuff in the little room at the B&B where we were staying for a three day getaway. For a brief moment I wasn't sure I actually packed the handful of perfume decant I selected to bring on the trip. The idea of not having the scents I wanted, and worse: not having perfume at all (!) was intolerable. Within a second I found my decants in the zippered compartment of my bag, not to mention that the husband was happy to share the samples he had packed (Tam Dao, Tom Ford Grey Vetiver, Frederic Malle Bois d'Orage, L'Artisan Mechant Loup), so I wasn't in real danger, but not having some Shalimar with me felt wrong.

Packing perfume for a trip, long or brief, requires thinking about what I'd like to wear in the near future. Sometimes I take a couple of samples I'm testing, but for the most part I want to have fragrances I'm already certain will make happy and comfortable. I always have something that feels like it's part of me (hence Shalimar), a few things I'm loving at that particular point in time, something for an evening out, another that will suit the weather, a comfort scent for night (not sleeping in my own bed surrounded by cats requires help), a sunny perfume that feels good outdoors... the list goes on. Here's what I packed this time:

Mona di Orio- Eau Absolue. The husband actually wore it for dinner. A perfect balance between day and night, rain and shine, femme and homme.
M. Micallef Rose Extreme- Brightens the day and stays on.
Vintage Shalimar (EDT)- Because it feels like home.
La Via del Profumo- Tawaf. A sultry jasmine and then some.
Dior- New Look 1947. Because right now I'm utterly in love with this sophisticated floral and want to wear it all the time.
Sonoma Scent Studio- Champagne de Bois. Woody and outdoorsy, yet cozy.

I could have easily packed a couple more, just to be on the safe side, but I tried to be reasonable. How about you? Do you have a fragrance you must have on hand while away? Were you ever stuck anywhere scentless?

Photo of Marlene Dietrich via Straight, Stirred Up, With A Twist.

Those Were The Days- Fashion, Models, Makeup Part I

2013-05-15T13:44:00.000-04:00

Last weekend I spent more time than I'm willing to admit browsing the archives of Top Models Of The World. The site has photos from fashion shows, scans of fashion and beauty editorials from old magazines and vintage ads featuring famous and less famous models. Usually I look for older stuff, but I was sucked in by items from the 1908s and 90s, pictures I've seen on the pages of the actual magazines during the times they were the only ~~connection~~ lifeline to the fashion world. I picked some of these gems to share with you.

Ines de la Fressange in Chanel was elegance personified:

Even in this kind of an outfit:

The same goes for Iman in Dior:

Even Guerlain and Famke Janssen didn't escape the 80s:

Madame Sarkozy:

Nobody escaped the mullet:

Janice Dickinson in saner days; Cosmo in less smutty days:

Aziza taught us how do apply blush:

Pretty much my fashion ideal circa 1982:

Serge Lutens took his creative vision from Dior to Shiseido:

The gentleman in the next two photos is Uncle Karl:

Jerry Hall and Joan Severance in French Vogue:

Kimora, before Baby Phat and reality TV:

Cindy was already regretting the pleated pants:

No idea what's going on there, but bunny!!!

Stay tuned for part 2 tomorrow!

La Prairie Agate Cellular Treatment Eye Shadow

2013-05-15T11:23:00.000-04:00

La Prairie Cellular Treatment Eye Colour shadows are a splurgy treat. All La Prairie products are, as a matter of fact, and they're hard to resist because the textures really are that awesome. Agate, a neutral wet sand color, is a perfect base color for many makeup looks. On my eyelids (that are naturally darker than my arms) it's a barely-there color that's perfect either for an almost bare look or as a companion for La Prairie Eye Colour in Hematite, one of my favorite blue eye shadows in the known universe.

The texture is gossamer silk and it blends effortlessly. The finish has a light low-key glow that reflects the light ever so slightly. La Prairie Agate is beautiful, understated, wearable, and versatile. The packaging is elegant-- just look at the outside of the compact. It would have been better, though, if the eye shadow came with a usuable brush instead of the silly sponge applicators. It can also be a slippery slope, as all their products happen to be (see also the lipsticks in Quiet Berry and Midnight Plum, or the Cellular Glow cream blush).

Bottom Line: don't say I didn't worn you.

La Prairie Agate Cellular Treatment Eye Shadow ($45) is available from top department stores.

Ten Masculine Perfumes Women Should Borrow

2013-05-14T21:00:00.000-04:00

Regular readers know that I don't care even one bit about gender labels assigned to perfume. As the husband is fond of saying, it's not like the bottle's hiding something under its tail. Thankfully, most of my favorite perfumers and perfume houses subscribe to a more unisex or shared view, but there are still masculine perfumes that I highly recommend women would at least try, as they're just too beautiful to miss. Here's my list:

Ormonde Man. Similar to Ormonde Woman, just a bit more streamlined.
Guerlain Vetiver. And any vetiver, really. If you love green grassy and earthy perfumes you'll enjoy the complexity of this note.
Speaking of Guerlain, their entire masculine line is worth trying. Derby, even in its thinner reformulated version; Coriolan and its newer incarnation; Arsene Lupin (previously known as Dandy). The latter is one of my favorite perfumes in general, masculine or not.
Histoires de Parfums 1740 (De Sade). A rich and spicy leather that will get your imagination flowing.
Chanel Egoiste. It's a variation on the theme of Bois des Iles. You can't go wrong with that.
Terre d'Hermes (especially the parfum). It may be a bit of a cliche on a man, but we give this iconic perfume a new life. Kind of like those of us who used to borrow our fathers' Ralph Lauren Polo.
Speaking of best-sellers, Thierry Mugler A*Men. Who doesn't like a good gourmand?
All the MPG masculines, especially Parfum d'Habit, Iris Bleu Gris, and Centaure. Way better than the brand's feminine offering.
Anything Amouage. My current top picks are Interlude Man and Lyric Man, but really, each and every one of them is brilliant.
Penhaligon's- Sartorial. Steam and lavender. Like borrowing his crisp white shirt.

Photo of Katharine Hepburn in Sylvia Scarlett via Dr.Macro.

Clarisonic & The Middle Aged Woman

2013-05-14T13:06:00.000-04:00

Once upon a time during our 1980s teenhood most of us equated clean and clear skin with the rigorous cleansing and scrubbing that removed every last bit of oils from the surface. Those were the days of Noxzema for cleansing and Oxy5 (or 10) when that failed. The result, of course, was usually tight, dry and flaking patches of skin, but hey-- isn't dry better than greasy?

Most of us know better now.

Our skin is more complex than that. We want it soft, smooth, and supple. We want it to look healthy and full of life, which means well-hydrated. And we want it clean, which means a full removal of makeup, grime, goop and skin debris. We also know that active skin care as well as nourishment is more effective on clean skin, so removing dirt and dead skin cells is just as important for moisturizing as it is for clear pores. These days I achieve this sloughing through gentle chemical exfoliation (glicolic, lactic and mandelic acids) as well as as by using a Clarisonic brush a couple of times a week.

It's nothing new. I bought my Clarisonic about two and a half years ago, so I've certainly had enough time to figure things out. I liked it from the very beginning because this is a very effective tool, but my love for it has grown the more I've learned and as I've refined its use. It can be summed up as "If it hearts you're probably doing it wrong". Here are a few points to consider:

1. Clarisonic has several brush head options. Unless your skin is ultra thick and coarse, go with the Delicate brush head. There's absolutely no reason for anything abrasive to touch your skin.
2. The one and only secret for using the Clarisonic is to hold it parallel to the skin, touching lightly, and just moving it in circular motions, never ever ever (ever) pressing or pushing it. It takes a while to fully get it because the first instinct is to brush or "help" it. Don't. Just don't. The whole point is the sonic oscillation that does the work, just like with your sonic toothbrush. You already know not to scrub your gums forcefully, right? The same goes for your face.
3. Use your favorite rinse-off cleanser. Skip the stuff that comes with the brush and don't start experimenting with new skincare when you first learn to use the Clarisonic.

I see two main benefits from using this little gadget: an improved skin texture, as the brush truly removes the stuff that doesn't belong on my face; as a result, everything else that I apply to my skin is more effective: serums, creams, oils-- they all go in faster and work better. The result is a more hydrated, clearer, and healthier looking face. As far as I'm concerned this isn't about scrubbing and exfoliating. It's about getting my sort-of-normal-leaning-dry-42-year-old skin to look its best.

I have the basic Clarisonic brush ($159) that comes with a charger that sits on my bathroom counter. I usually use it in the shower 2-3 times a week with various creamy rinse-off cleanser or whatever I'm testing at the time. I only use the Delicate brush heads which I sanitize with alcohol every once in a while (and once with Listerine when that was the only thing I had on hand) and replace when the hair looks like it has seen better days. I love my brush enough to consider also getting the travel-friendly Clarisonic Mia. Both can be found at Nordstrom, Sephora, Beauty.com, and Dermstore.

Images: Top Models Of The World and Clarisonic.com.

Dior Addict Extreme Lipstick: Fireworks & Paparazzi

2013-05-14T11:53:00.000-04:00

It's true that Dior has too many lip products named Dior Addict in several variations. It makes it hard to keep track, remember what you already tried or even get excited about new Dior Addict releases. I guess I'm a bad blogger for taking my time getting around to playing with Dior Addict Extreme Lipstick, but when I finally picked them a month or two ago, I was utterly delighted with them.

Dior Addict Extreme is a less shiny and more intensely pigmented formula than the regular Dior Addict lipsticks. They last longer and leave a darker stain without compromising the moisturizing and soothing effect. I get about 6 hours of wear and the stain survives a drink and a snack.

I chose two colors: Fireworks (756), a medium classic red, and Paparazzi (866), which is a red plum. My own lip color makes both of them pull a bit more rosy, but as I apply two even coats with a brush I get a good coverage that's more true to the color in the tube. These Dior lipsticks feel comfortable, nourishing and don't accentuate lines and scars, making them a great choice for long days or important events.

Bottom Line: yup, Addict is a good name.

Dior Addict Extreme Lipsticks ($31 each) are available at the counters and from Sephora, in store and online.

Currently- May 2013

2013-05-14T00:08:00.003-04:00

Book
Mrs Queen Takes The Train by William Kuhn. An Elizabeth II novel. One is utterly amused.

Music
Linda Draper- Sleepwalker from her new album Edgewise (out May 21st). I heard the song the other night on WFUV and I can't wait till iTunes have it.

Perfume
Histoires de Parfums- 1740 Marquis de Sade. A spicy ambery dark leather. No idea why I never reviewed it. Will rectify soon.

Makeup
Coral lips and nails. But less expected than that, I rediscovered the jar of MAC Blue Brown pigment and fell in love all over again.

Frequently Worn
Light jersey dresses of every length. Scarves and funky jewelry make them less boring.

Food
Cranberries, tomatoes, carrot juice. If it's red or orange I will eat it.

Shame Inducing Guilty Pleasure
Indulging in more royal biographies.

Bane
The vacuum cleaner is on its last legs. These appliances don't die of old age in our house.

Joy
A few days off.

Anticipation
Kittens.

Wishlist
Anything Maiyet, but especially their Gehry bags.

Random Thought
If the upcoming Estee Lauder perfume Modern Muse is Lauder's "most comprehensive women’s scent statement since the 2003 launch of Beyond Paradise" (WWD, May 3, 2013) or as their global brand president "the most important fragrance moment we’ve had in a decade", what exactly do they call Adventurous (2011), Amber Mystique (2013), Azuree Soleil Whatever (2007), Beautiful Love (2006), Beautiful Precious Drops (2006), Beautiful Spring Veil (who cares?), Beautiful Summer Bouquet (2006), Beautiful Summer Fun (2007 and 2008), Beyond Paradise Blue, Beyond Paradise Summer Fun (seriously), Brazil Dream (2008), Bronze Goddess (too many to count), Emerald Dream (vile beyond your dreams, 2006), Intuition Summer In Bloom (2004), Pleasures Artist's Edition (I don't want to know), Pleasures Baie Rose Peony Splash (2009), Pleasures Bloom, Pleasures Delight, Pleasures Eau Fraiche, Pleasures Exotic, Pleasures Jasmine Violet Splash, Pleasures Pop, Pleasures Sandalwood Amber Splash, Pleasures Summer Fun, Private Collection Amber Ylang, Private Collection Jasmine White Moss, Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia, Pure White Linen and five more flankers of this flanker, Very Estee (2012), Wild Elixir (2011), Wood Mystique (2011) and of course Sensuous in three concentrations, two extra flankers and Gywneth Paltrow without pants?
I call it a cynical company that has lost respect for its customers.

How about you? Please share your thoughts, recommendations, loves and banes.

Top image: Woman and Cats (1969) by Will Barnet

Dolce & Gabbana Eva Illuminator & Tan Blush: Highlighting & Contouring

2013-05-13T15:50:00.003-04:00

Among the many face products in the Dolce & Gabbana line there's also The Illuminator -Glow Illuminating Powder in two shades: Eva 3 and Shimmer 6. The latter is pink-based, so I skipped it, but Eva, a nude beige powder with a smooth finish, seemed like the right choice.

Now, despite the name and some of the marketing materials this Dolce & Gabbana Illuminating Powder is not a highlighter. It's a light reflecting powder that's more of a finishing product than a topical illuminator. Eva works along the same lines of Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powder in the way it diffuses light and creates a soft glow with no visible particles (Hourglass Ambient Lighting comes in several shades, though, and some are more glowing than others). I like the silky softness of this powder, but it's colorless and subdued that when it comes to allover sheer light diffusing and a perfect photoshopped finish I much prefer the loose powder from NARS (that I still need to review. I know, it's been months), and for adding a visible glow Hourglass is far superior.

The other side of the shade/illuminate equation is contouring. With my facial structure I do this less on my impossible to find cheekbones (I have none) but more to narrow the nose and define my jawline. Dolce & Gabbana Luminous Cheek Color in Tan #22 is a good product for this purpose. This nude tan blush has no hint of orange. It's a very neutral shade, light enough not to require an hour of diffusing but visible and effective. The texture is soft and smooth (Dolce & Gabbana blushes have many fans because of their silky finish), and it's easy to work with.

The packaging of Dolce & Gabbana products is sturdy and detailed. One might not be crazy about the blinding gold, but it's luxurious and nice in its way. The Illuminator's (half decent) brush comes in a separate pocket attached to the compact's velveteen pouch. Blushes are packaged more traditionally with a scratchy little brush inside the compact.

Bottom Line: Tan is definitely worth trying if you're after a nice contour powder. The Illuminator is overpriced for its quality and performance.

Dolce & Gabbana Eva Illuminator ($50) & Tan Blush ($45) are available from Saks and Sephora.

Charlotte Tilbury’s House of Rock’n’Kohl At Selfridges

2013-05-13T12:38:00.002-04:00

Another reason to wish I were in London this summer: Selfridges (aka The Other Mothership) will host Charlotte Tilbury’s House of Rock’n’Kohl, a week long beauty event ( June 17 to 23) that will include makeovers, beauty advice and panel discussions with a variety of figures, as well as makeup bag clear-out sessions. This is an interesting event not just because Charlotte Tilbury is one of the biggest names in makeup artistry (are you following her YouTube channel?), but due to the fact that this isn't a brand/product-driven affair. The focus is supposed to be looking at beauty at a social and cultural context (I'm curious what that means to Selfridges). There are some celebrities and visual artists expected appearances and a light installation portrait of Kate Moss will be unveiled in one of the store’s windows.

If you're in London the week of June 17 to 23 will you be going? I'm very curious about this event and would love to hear opinions and impressions.

Photo of Charlotte Tilbury at Milan S/S 2013 Fashion Week last September via contessanally.blogspot.com. Info about Charlotte Tilbury’s House of Rock’n’Kohl At Selfridges via WWD.

Dior- New Look 1947 (La Collection Privee)

2013-05-12T23:17:00.000-04:00

“We were emerging from the period of war, of uniforms, of women-soldiers built like boxers. I drew women-flowers, soft shoulders, fine waists like liana and wide skirts like corolla." ---Christian Dior quoted in The New Look: The Dior Revolution, by Nigel Cawthorne. London: Hamlyn, 1996

When I first smelled New Look 1947 from Dior La Collection Privee shortly after it was released my first thought was that this 2010 fragrance is a natural descendant of the original line of classic Dior perfume. Not because this soft floral resembles any of the familiar masterpieces, but it has a marvelous elegance that really says: Dior!

Perfumer François Demachy was charged with creating an olfactory homage to Christian Dior's 1947 iconic fashion collection, The New Look. To do so he blended the ultra-feminine tuberose & co. in a wonderful abstract way that doesn't let any of the often heady components take over or create a noisy drama. Instead, we get a soft and powdery floral, a bit dreamy and languid, that walks in measured steps fully aware of its pedigree and lineage. New Look 1947 is a modern interpretation of a classic idea: a heart built around the iris-rose-jasmine trio is as French as they come, but the cheeky tuberose with its touch of green replaces the traditional aldehydes in elevating the core floral notes.

Similarly, one might expect to have a smooth and creamy vanilla-sandalwood base to hold everything together, but the sandalwood available to us these days is usually not of couture quality. Dior La Collection Privee aspires to represents the true character of this luxury house, thus inferior materials have no place there. Instead, we get a very similar effect through the use of ylang-ylang and benzoin. For a moment there I could almost smell a phantom Mysore sandalwood. The beautiful dry-down of Dior New Look 1947 is as abstract as the rest of it, and just as luxurious. It's a long-lasting, soft and intimate. The fragrance is incredibly lady-like and polite, it remains in one's personal space for most of the day, adding a chic finishing touch to whatever else you're wearing.

Notes: Tuberose, Ylang ylang, Iris, Damask rose, Sambac jasmine, Peony, Vanilla, Benzoin.

Dior- New Look 1947 ($155, 4.25oz) and the rest of La Collection Privee are available at Bergdorf Goodman, select Neiman Marcus locations, Dior boutiques and Dior.com (at least in the USA).

Top image: Christian Dior 1947 couture show via Dior.com.
Second image: Christian Dior The Bar look, Spring/Summer haute couture 1947, Corolle collection. Photo: Patrick Demarchelier via http://en.vogue.fr .

Happy Mother's Day

2013-05-12T00:00:00.000-04:00

Photo of Catherine Duchess Of Cambridge: Getty via Zimbio