The Non-Blonde

A Souvenir From The Past

2009-07-09T22:53:00.005-04:00

My interest in vintage perfume started a few years ago, when I realized that things no longer smelled the way they used to. The solution was, naturally, eBay, where I found myself searching, bidding, sniping and often losing auctions to other perfume nuts (like the sealed bottle of Fath Iris Gris I lost to Patty of Perfume Posse) with the same mission and obsession.

A couple of the more interesting items one can find on eBay are old collections of micro-mini perfumes from the 60s and 70s. As far as I know, they were sold as souvenirs on duty free carts during flights from Paris. These boxes often contain the pure extrait de parfum version of then-popular scents, ones that either vanished completely or have been horribly reformulated.

I got this one a couple of years at the beginning of my vintage journey, and it took me a while to warm up to these scents and get them. Each tiny bottle held about 2 ml extrait, most of them are actual miniatures of the original.

Fath de Fath (Jacques Fath)- This was probably the reason I wanted this set. I was (still am) very curious about the legendary fashion and perfume house of Jacques Fath. The problem was that the top notes are completely dead (there was probably quite a bit of citrus there) and at first I thought the perfume has turned. Once I actually gave it some time, I discovered some of what hides under the rubble. There's a robust floral heart and a dark chypre base. It feels formal and formidable. Not sure about wearability, but since I have a full sealed bottle coming (of the vintage, not the reissue), one that hopefully was better stored and have retained more of its glory, I'm going to find out soon enough.

Fidji (Guy Laroche)- The 70s in a bottle. I remember playing as a kid with a bottle of Fidji my mom had around the house (a gift from a someone well-meaning but utterly misguided. She wore nothing but the original Chloe) and probably used to clean light switches and the telephone receiver. Other than time travel to my childhood, Fidji is also green and sweet, a happy scent from an era when you could evoke a tropical feeling without the smell of a pink drink and cheap suntan oil. Just add a silk pareo. The current reformulated EDT smells like the vintage parfum's poor and trashy cousin.

Magie (Lancome)- A sweet floral with more than a little animalic base. Some of the top notes are gone, but there's still enough here to enjoy. It's a bit too lush to be considered polite, which makes it a lot of fun, at least in theory. I wouldn't dare wear this version of Magie in public, but it might be just my skin chemistry. Jasmine is rarely my friend.

Empreinte (Courreges)- The big surprise in this collection. I knew close to nothing about Courreges Parfums and never heard of Empreinte before the little gold bottle landed here. I loved it from the very first sniff. It starts dry and peppery and has a hint of smoke, almost BBQ like somewhere in the heart, which would have put me off if not for the beautiful leathery drydown. It could easily be considered a masculine nowadays. I saw new bottles online of an EDT, but have never come across one in person, so no idea how they compare. Might be worth checking, though, because Empreinte is a great scent.

Climat (Lancome)- My sister had a bottle of the EDT in the very early 90s, but rarely (if ever) wore it. She was more into heavy orientals while I preferred big chypres, so Climat was quite neglected in its modest aldehydic non-glory. I never really got the point of this perfume until I smelled the vintage extrait and discovered it had nice cheekbones and a lot more character than I've assumed, but it's still not me. I suspect my sister would like it better nowadays, especially in the EDT (Sis, if you're reading this, ask mom what she's done with the bottle).

both photos are mine

What Would Heather Say?

2009-07-08T22:44:00.004-04:00

Winona Ryder is an 80s nightmare. I tried to decide what's the worst part of this outfit. My vote goes for the shoes. What do you think?

photo: Socialite Life

Blue Eye Shadows (and how to apply them)

2009-07-07T22:14:00.004-04:00

My teal Laura Mercier eye shadow was only the beginning. Apparently, an obsession was born.

Deep blue, azure, sea blue, sea glass, sea green, indigo... These eye shadow colors say summer, vacation, the French Riviera. They make brown eyes pop and can almost guarantee a good mood when wearing them. Most brands have something to offer, some are new (Lancome Declaring Indigo has just launched), others have been around for a while (Sue Devitt had actually released her sea-themed palettes last fall).

Palettes that include a neutral color or two are the most practical to carry in your makeup bag, but since most of us own enough cream, taupe and sand eye shadows, a single in a rich, stunning blue might be the best choice (Nars Tropic and Urban Decay Electric Blue are prime candidates) for the "if you only get one" category.

When it comes to application of blue (or any bright colored eye shadow, really), good brushes are the key, because it's all about blending. Sure, the models in those pictures look stunning, but unless your name is Daria Werbowy, you're not supposed to show up to work like that. Here are the basic steps for a wearable blue eye shadow look:

1. Apply a light, neutral base color all over, from lid to brow (ivory, cream, beige, whatever. Bobbi Brown Navajo is a good option).

2. Using a crease brush, apply a taupe/ light brown/any other neutral that's just a bit darker than your natural skin tone to the lid and crease. Now blend them together (a blending brush is an essential tool) until everything is seamless.

3. Apply the blue shadow close to the lash line from the inner part outwards. Use a bit more in the outer corner and draw the line upwards, if desired. It all depends on the shape of your eye and lid.

4. The blending brush is your best friend. Blend a little more. Tip: I sometimes use a little more of the taupe or cream at this point to take some of the edge off. Be more daring at night, but for a daytime look you only need a little, just a pop of color that makes things interesting.

5. Have you blended enough?

Eyeliner tip: a very thin not-quite-black looks best here (applied as close to the lash line as humanly possible). Lancome Artliner in Smoke, Julie Hewett cream liner in Newsprint Bleu and Bobbi Brown Long Wear Gel in Indigo Ink are my favorites. For a more subtle line you can also use a blue-black eye shadow applied dry or wet with the thinnest eyeliner brush.

Lisa Hoffman Vitamin A& C Serum

2009-07-06T22:38:00.003-04:00

Another chapter in the quest for the perfect serum, or: The secret of fabulous looking hands

I wanted to love the Vitamin A& C serum from Lisa Hoffman's skin care line. After all, it's a small niche brand full of good intentions. The ingredient list is short, precise and doesn't contain scary or questionable chemicals (unless you're from IFRA, and in that case the grapefruit peel oil might send you into convulsions, but that's not the point here). But despite the promised vitamins (Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbat is vitamin C and Retinyl Palmitate is vitamin A, both are good for you, as far as my googling could tell), most of what's in the silvery pump bottle is silicone, the same stuff that goes into most hair serums.

Not that there's anything wrong with it. But when it comes to my skin care needs, coating my face with silicon (it takes a little while to absorb) was not the right treatment. I gave the serum three weeks before I gave up, but it obviously clashed with my moisturizer and didn't provide the skin brightening I expect from vitamin C products.

Like many unloved skin care products, I started using the Lisa Hoffman serum on my hands. I do this often, as most creams and serums, even if I find them to be underachievers, are still more active than the average hand cream. While definitely not nourishing enough by itself (my hands can get very dry), I find that it's fabulous for locking the moisture from a good cream and making my hands look and feel very smooth. The antioxidants and vitamins can't hurt, either.

Lisa Hoffman Day & Night Vitamin A& C Serum ($95 for 1 oz) is available from lisahoffmanskincare.com. The travel size (0.5 oz) I received was a PR freebie.

Image: universaltimer.com

PXA 2009- Perfume Expo America

2009-07-06T00:42:00.002-04:00

Neither crazy weather nor NYC traffic were able to stop me on Thursday from attending PXA 2009, Perfume Expo America. I can't think of many trade shows that can be as exciting as one dedicated to all things fragrance. Many brands, old and new, set up booths to showcase their products and introduce them to retailers, distributors, suppliers and the media.

As a blogger who is equally fascinated with the artistic side of fragrance, as well as with the business and marketing aspects, this was an excellent opportunity to see, smell, chat and feel the pulse of the industry.

Getting acquainted with new brands is always fun. There are several interesting ones that are currently looking for distribution channels here in the US. I got samples of most and have started testing, so stay tuned for reviews of perfumes you most likely have never seen before. Other highlights were actually older brands. Weil perfumes have mostly vanished from the scene, but they are back now and ready to find new customers. Fans of the classic Antilope would be thrilled to see it back in production. According to the brand's rep, it's the same formula and nothing has changed from the original. I wouldn't bet any money on this statement and I'm not familiar with the vintage version, but from brief sniffing I really liked the new Antilope.

In a world where traditional family businesses are being sold to big corporations and losing both their identity and integrity, meeting Jean-Pierre Lerouge-Benard, the president of Molinard, and his daughter, Charlotte, was an unexpected joy. The house of Molinard has a lot more to offer than Habanita and Nirmala, including a line focused on certain notes and accords (including a bold chypre), and a new scent in honor of the house's 160th anniversary. Mr. Lerouge-Benard loves his perfumes, from the raw materials to the final product. He hates the word "juice", which he feels takes away from the mystery and the emotional reaction a fragrance should induce, and is proud to see a fifth generation join the family business.

I had a little disappointment at the Courvoisier booth. I love their EDP (labeled a masculine, but I share it with my husband) and hoped for an interesting addition to the line. While they are working on a feminine version (no release date or any other information available at the moment), their efforts have gone into making two weaker versions of the originals- an EDT and an aftershave splash. Both have lighter, airy notes at the top and are meant to smell "clean". Let's hope for something better in the future.

There were also new European skin care lines- alpine water and edelweiss flowers can only be good, right? Perfumes for kids (I admit not to get this concept. When my nieces are old enough to appreciate and enjoy scents, I'm getting them the real thing. I'm thinking a Lutens), and the house of Piguet still pushing Fracas instead of the new release, Futur.

Happy and scented, it was then time to deal with rush hour traffic back to Jersey.

Happy Fourth!

2009-07-03T22:11:00.003-04:00

Laura Mercier Satinée Crème Eye Colour

2009-07-02T22:21:00.003-04:00

It's not really summer until someone buys a teal eye shadow.

I was at Bergdorf just as the Laura Mercier counter was being stocked with new products. My curiosity led me to allow the young SA free reign over my face, and it was a lot of fun. The new Satinée Crème Eye Colour in Teal Cashmere is beautiful and somewhat muted (on the website they describe it as "dusty", which is pretty accurate). It's different than the aqua shades we've seen in previous seasons, and as the SA showed me, the color is very wearable. If you follow me on Twitter, you might have seen a twit or two from the counter.

The color looks scary right out of the tube (as you can see on my wrist in the swatch), but once you start blending it (a synthetic brush would do wonders, but you can also use your finger), things mellow down significantly. I've tried it as a sheer wash, but prefer it either as a pop of color near the lash line or blended with a cream base color on the lead and into the crease, as shown in the photo (yes, that's my eye).

Laura Mercier Satinée Crème Eye Colour belongs to a new generation of cream eye shadows. It has a beautiful finish with only the barest hint of light reflecting particles, it doesn't crease or melts (even in NYC humidity), and it stays put until you take it off as long as you apply it over a primer.

By the way, I also tried the new Limited Edition Medium Lip Watercolours. While I liked the concept of a blendable painter's palette and the Lip Prep (a lip primer/base) was fabulous, most of the colors were completely off. I wish there was a darker option (there's also a palette in Fair. Good for albinos), but since there isn't I went to the Chantecaille counter where I found a couple of true loves.

All photos are mine. Giselle up there is just a bonus picture as I was trying to keep her from taking off with the little eye shadow tube.

Laura Mercier Satinée Crème Eye Colour ($22) is available at most decent department stores and online. I bought mine at Bergdorf Goodman.

Crabtree and Evelyn filed for Chapter 11- Who didn't see it coming?

2009-07-02T00:46:00.006-04:00

Crabtree & Evelyn filed bankruptcy protection on Wednesday. According to WSJ, the company expects a 24.4% drop in retail sales for fiscal 2009 from 2008 (though online sales will probably increase 10% this year), and is over $24 million in debt.

Sad news, indeed, which leads me to try and remember when was the last time I shopped at Crabtree & Evelyn for anything other than their environmental oils. The answer was that I stopped buying their body products a few years ago. And apparently, I'm not the only one.

Last time I was at one of their stores I noticed those jumbo body wash bottles (they were selling three for the price of two, or something like that), but upon sniffing I realized they all had the same unpleasant plastic smell, which didn't much resemble the original labeled scent. I passed on that deal. New scents seemed to appear briefly, not impress anyone and go into oblivion. The Holiday trio (vanilla, chocolate and pomegranate, if I remember correctly) had shimmer in the bottles, seemed more like a BBW product and seriously lacked in the class department.

But the most annoying aspect and the reason I stopped shopping there was the discontinuing of favorite scent lines. I'm still hoarding half a bottle of the Rose Damask bath and shower gel which was so much better than the somewhat aquatic Rosewater. I also liked their Citrus body wash, the original Vanilla and the Azzemour home products. And there were lavender laundry detergent and linen spray that were sold for a brief moment. The point is that in the last five or six years you could never be sure a favorite product would still be there the next time you need it.

Since I refuse to pay inflated prices for a soap on eBay, I simply moved on. You'd think someone at the company would notice the crazy hoarding and the crazier bidding wars over some of the discontinued items and would come to a certain conclusion. Instead, they filled the store with those godawful Vera Bradley bags.

What do you think? Do you still shop at Crabtree & Evelyn?

Photo by G.M. Kowalewska

Jennifer Garner In White

2009-07-01T23:22:00.002-04:00

There's something about Jennifer Garner's look here- it's understated and very summery. She's all in white, a beautiful choice which manages to actually be interesting at a time when everyone seems to try a bit too hard not to match. And there's that little pop of color from the sole of her Louboutons...

The best thing, I think, is how appropriate and sane she looks. Lovely.

Photo: Just Jared

Ralph Lauren Romance Always Yours

2009-06-30T23:44:00.005-04:00

I remember buying a bottle of Ralph Lauren Romance in 1999, shortly after it came out. I was still captivated by all things Lauren (hey, I was young and even Jersey Girls dream of the Hamptons), and since I loved both the original Lauren (pre-mutilation) and the beautiful Safari and have gone through several bottles of both during the previous decade, I felt like I was supposed to love Romance just as much. The problem was that Romance belonged to the new generation of faceless, characterless perfumes that were meant for a new customer, one who wants to smell "clean", whatever that means, and would be horrified were someone to actually notice her scent. As you might have guessed, I wasn't that woman even ten years ago. I could never distinguish any of the specific floral notes and the whole synthetic mess thing didn't work with my skin chemistry any more than it suited my personality. I ended up selling the bottle almost full and never looked back.

Late last year, to commemorate a decade of making people smell like laundry detergent, L'Oréal, who owns the license for Ralph Lauren's name, launched Romance Always Yours. It's a variation on the same theme, an updated sequel, which actually is supposed to add something to the original, instead of the usual flanker MO of using an established name to sell an inferior product. Smelling a magazine insert got me interested to sniff the real thing at Sephora, and I liked it well enough, so when it appeared on one of the discounters' site for the ridiculous price of $22 and some change, I decided to get a bottle.

Romance Always Yours feels to me like someone tried (and mostly succeeded) to fix whatever went wrong with the original concept of Romance. I think it gives the washed-out floral a little character. It's still pink, still not my idea of a grand romance, but it's cute, likeable and wearable, while actually having a point of view.

The official note list makes very little sense. Have a look:

Romance notes:
Sun goddess Rose, Marigold, Yellow Freesia, Ginger, Chamomile Oil, White Violet, Lotus Flower, Musk, Day Lily, Patchouli, Oakmoss

Romance Always Yours notes:
Sun Goddess Rose, Freesia, Ginger, Lotus Flower, White Violet, Musk, Day Lily, Patchouli, Oakmoss

If there's any real oakmoss (in either perfume) it's in such miniscule amount, neither I nor an IFRA bureaucrat can detect it. I can't tell what really changed, added or tweaked, but the end result is that Romance Always Yours smells nice. It's not challenging or inspiring and I just can't see it as very romantic in a soul stirring way. It's a Doris Day scent and not a sultry screen siren, but there's a place for that even in my dramatic wardrobe.

Marina from Perfume Smellin' Things suggests some appropriate occasions to wear Romance Always Yours. Like her, I don't see a meet-the-parents event in my future, so I wear it when weeding my tomatoes.

StrangeBeautiful Nail Polish- The Yellow Challenge

2009-06-29T21:05:00.003-04:00

Previously on The Non-Blonde:
I fell in love with StrangeBeautiful nail colors and superb quality. My one complaint was about the concept- you cannot choose your colors and buy them seperately, and I wasn't sure all the colors in the series were wearable. To prove me wrong, StrangeBeautiful creator, Jane Schub., sent me the strangest color in Series 2, the mustard yellow.

I took the challenge, and must admit she was right. Once I got over the unfortunate associations of yellow nails, I could see this color is actually pretty. It's just a bit brighter than a good mustard and actually reminds me several bags and accessories we've been seeing the last couple of seasonsthis season. It's noticeable but not too loud, and worked nicely with the DVF prints I've been wearing the last few days.

The indoors photos were taken with and without flash, and I shamelessly used the cats to show the colors. Buffy and Lizzy were (mostly) cooperative.

All photos (and freakishly large hands) are mine.

News from JAR: Shadow Discontinued, Al Palazzo to Launch Soon

2009-06-28T21:36:00.004-04:00

My Bergdorf visit today was bittersweet. The JAR alcove has been calling my name, but when sitting down for a sniffing, only six scents were presented. Shadow is no more, according to the (wonderful) JAR rep because one of the raw materials is no longer available and couldn't be replaced. JAR doesn't reformulate, substitutes or compromises. Since Shadow could no longer be made the way it was conceived, it was sent to Great Fragrance Counter in the sky, to sit with Hermes Doblis, Shiseido Nombre Noir, Guerlain Djedi and Tauer Orris.

I don't know which ingredient was responsible to Shadow's demise, as JAR notes are kept secret. The SA said twice that it was an availability issue and not a consequence of regulation, so your guess is as good as mine. It's sad. I was very fond of this earthy, damp leprechaun of a scent.

The good news is the new JAR that is expected to be launched right before the Holidays. The name is subject to change, according to the SA, but most likely will be Al Palazzo and it takes the line in a new, interesting direction.

It was sweet. Really sweet. But not in a conventional amber or vanilla way. It moves from raw to burnt sugar, has a wet feeling but never crosses the line towards the cliché or the cloying. There's a burst of a bright green, herbal note (mint? tarragon?) and very little (if any) of the typical JAR darkness. I think I got something a bit spicy, but the It's probably more accessible than anything else in the line (other than maybe Golconda). There's only a small spray tester available at the moment, and JARs are meant to be dabbed, so this is only a partial impression. I'll need to go back (again and again), but I suspect this is a serious new love. It's quite gorgeous.

Image: Iris brooch by JAR from blog.jeaninepayer.com (a very interesting artist by her own right)

Currently

2009-06-28T01:40:00.003-04:00

Book
The Season of the Witch by James Leo Herlihy. Fiction in the form of a diary written by Gloria, a teenage runaway during the autumn of 1969.

Song
Astrud Gilberto's version of Manhã de Carnaval

Frequently worn outfit/item
White denim

Perfume
Tauer- Vetiver Dance. Apparently, this scent needs to age a little so the muguet note mellows down. All of a sudden I can't get enough of it.

Makeup
Bobbi Brown eye shadow in Espresso. I use it as eyeliner and as a brow corrector. Can't live without it.

Food
Grilled artichokes

Drink
Water. What else?

Guilty Pleasure
Loacker chocolate wafer cookies. I should just chain myself to the elliptical.

Bane of my existence
Flat feet

Joy
Photos of my two nieces.

Anticipation
The new Harry Potter movie.

Wishlist
It's time for some new Manolos.

Thought
Billie Jean is not my lover

What's on your mind and plate these days? Please share.

Art: Dream by Sabzi

A note to the good people at Chantecaille

2009-06-26T17:26:00.003-04:00

Dear Chantecaille People,

Having a spiffy new website is great. It gives us a sneak peak of new products, web exclusive- it's all good stuff. But don't you think that selling top-of-the line makeup requires color swatches that don't look like it's 1999? Seriously, Lancome, Clinique, Nars and others have figured out ages ago that people who shop online really like to see what they're buying. Your products are usually better than theirs, so why can't your website be? Otherwise we have to face the sour-pussed SA at Saks, and that makes us cranky.

P.S. The Bengali Tiger Compacts are to die for.

Love,
Gaia, The Non-Blonde

Images: Chantecaille.com

Two Jewelry Sales

2009-06-26T00:49:00.002-04:00

If you need a good pick-me-up this weekend, there are two jewelry sales taking place right now, offering some pretties at a good price.

Anna Sofia makes jewelry of Japanese paper. Sounds a bit crazy, but it works. She makes the beads by hand, glazes them and constructs earrings, necklaces and bracelets. I've bought several necklaces over the last couple of years and they always get me compliments- they really are quite unique. I think the earrings are the best items Anna Sofia offers, which is ironic because I don't wear any (my ears aren't pierced)...
To get a 20% discount, use the code Summer09 at checkout.

Another favorite store, the French retailer Olivolga is having a huge summer sale. It looks like everything is %30-40% off, and those of us outside the EU also get the VAT taken off at checkout (and free shipping over 90€). I've bought from them several times and was always very happy with the customer service. Shipping time to North America is about 10 days.
The necklace above (48.30 € ) is by Skalli.

Farrah Fawcett 1947-2009

2009-06-25T14:21:00.005-04:00

"God gave women intuition and femininity. Used properly, the combination easily jumbles the brain of any man I`ve ever met."

Farrah Fawcett

Photos: filmbug.com, tvguide, allposters.com

Erno Laszlo Multi-Phase Blush And Bronzer

2009-06-24T23:18:00.003-04:00

I've been a fan of Erno Laszlo skin care products for a while now (seriously, the pHormula No. 3-9 has been a life saver in several skin freakouts), so their expansion into makeup is a very welcome step. They've taken the one color fits all approach, which I don't always get, but since both the blush and the bronzer work so well on my skin, you will hear no complaints.

The picture above is a closeup on the blush. Both products are of the mosaic variety, which lets you see exactly which pigments are used. The blush has quite a bit of rose and plum in it, which looks natural and healthy. It's probably not for the coral lovers, but if you belong in my camp, the Erno Laszlo blush is worth trying. The powder is very finely milled and blends perfectly with anything else I have on. It stays on all day or night, but I haven't tested it on bare face- only over a foundation or a tinted moisturizer and always with a little powder to set things in place.

The bronzer is just as great and has become my favorite, especially for daytime since it's very low in shimmer. Photos online are making it appear more yellow than it actually is (and I've gotten similar results when I tried taking my own, but my camera sucks so no surprises there). It's comprised of six different colors, raging from sandy beige to terracotta. The blended result is exactly the right amount of sun kissed glow. I don't use much because I'm quite pale these days, but while testing I discovered the color is buildable, so if you've been fake tanning, it would still work nicely. If you have a very fair complexion you must test in regular daylight (department stores lighting is evil). I'm not sure how it would work on a cool toned porcelain skin- it might be a bit too much.

Erno Laszlo Multi Phase blush and bronzer ($38 each) are available from Bergdorf, Neiman, Nordstrom and Ernolaszlo.com. I got both as a PR freebie.

The Politics Of Scent

2009-06-23T20:31:00.006-04:00

One would think beauty and perfume blogs exist in a sparkly, sweet-smelling bubble, where the writers and readers go to escape daily life and not think of the economy, North Korea and Iran. But try as we may, we aren't really isolated and the outside world with all its ugliness can touch us and creep into what we're doing here.

The good news, I guess, is that even major brands no longer ignore the blogsphere. The bad news is that they're not forward-thinking enough to understand the concept, and try to manhandle it/us with the same belligerency they show in their normal business practice. Case in point is today's Guerlain vs. Octavian Coifan.

Octavian, a perfume historian, has been very vocal about the downward spiral Guerlain has taken in recent years. He spoke up about classic scents no longer smelling as wonderful and luxurious as before (cheapening of ingredients and over-regulating the use of raw material through IFRA). Now they want him silenced. They'd rather have Octavian (and the rest of us) post their press releases word by word without critiquing. They want us to help them promote their products without asking any questions they'd rather not answer. Or else.

Blogs are the one place you can find real reviews by people who are passionate about perfume and not about advertising budgets. We'll tell you what's great and what sucks. We talk about things the industry would rather hide. And they're terrified when they realize we can't be controlled and managed the way they're used from dealing with traditional media.

The griping and kvetching on the various blogs and forums is starting to get somewhere and annoy the snot out of marketing executives. Sometimes they try to retaliate. Longtime readers might remember why I and a few others have been boycotting a certain NYC-based perfume house, and it looks like it's time to give Guerlain the same treatment.

Guerlain and its owner, LVMH, have been getting a lot of well-deserved flack for destroying the wonderful tradition of the once family-owned house. They've been churning one mass-market scent after another in tastelessly expensive packaging that seem aimed at a very specific crowd, from the Russian mob to oil nobility.

Add to that the crapification of Dior perfumes to the point they are unrecognizable (just ask Luca Turin). They also eliminated Fendi perfumes (after discontinuing the good ones- the original Fendi, Asja and the legendary Theorema). It's safe to say that LVMH is not about the art of perfumery.

Of course, they are not the only major force in the industry that thinks their customers are a bunch of idiots who would buy any dreck as long as there's a fancy label. YSL perfumes aren't any better (have you smelled Elle???). The butchering of Jean Patou by Proctor & Gamble is lamented by many, and I hope the ghost of François Coty is haunting the boardroom of his company and poltergeisting the executives with Beckham For Her bottles.

If you've found this blog because you've been searching the net trying to figure out why your new bottle of Diorissimo, Opium or Joy doesn't really smell as good as it used to be, you're not alone. While I doubt the old classics can be resurrected in the short-to-medium term, there is an alternative. Don't give your money to companies who don't respect you. Instead, search the web for names such as Tauer Perfumes, Vero Profumo, Anya's Garden, Liz Zorn Soivohle, Roxana Illuminated Perfumes, Ayala Moriel, Strange Invisible Perfumes, Neil Morris Fragrances, Hilde Soliani, Mona di Orio, CB I Hate Perfumes and Aftelier Perfumes. Think of it in the same terms as the Slow Food Movement and supporting small, local businesses who have integrity and pride in what they do for a living.

Yes, I know it's becoming an almost political issue. It also smells better. A lot better.

Image: Pierre François Pascal Guerlain. Taken from lipstickpowderandpaint.com, original unknown.

Hilde Soliani Perfumes

2009-06-22T21:47:00.005-04:00

One of the best things about independent artisan perfumers is how they manage to melt even the hearts of those of us, cynical people, who've smelled too many mediocre (so called) major releases and have been watching the perfume industry go to hell in an overpriced bee bottle. It's been shown over and over that there are still real artists who put their hearts into their bottles, creating scents out of love and really good ingredients.

Hilde Soliani from Parma, Italy, is one such artist. Her scents tell stories of laughter, loved ones, her favorite places and cherished memories. Each one creates a sincere emotion, something so sorely missing from just about any mainstream release nowadays (what exactly does something like Magnifique make you feel?). Soliani is now launching a third group of perfumes. The first, Ti Amo ("I love you", 2005) was composed around flowers and their symbolic meaning. The second, Teatro Olfattivo Di Parma (2008) was inspired by her love of the local theater. The most recent one, Profumo e Gusto in Libertà is all about haute cuisine.

Sampling six scents from all three collection has reminded me once again not to judge a perfume by its notes or description. Notes are merely a suggestion , but the best thing is letting the fragrance show you what it can do. When it's well-made, that is.

Il Tuo Tulipano (from the Ti Amo collection)- It's a fruity-floral. A gorgeous, succulent fruity-floral that showed me what this much reviled genre can and should be when not created to please a faceless, senseless focus group. It's an embodiment of the color red- red fruit, huge red flowers. It makes me want to wear a pretty little sundress and go prancing somewhere, preferably with a red tulip or poppies in my hair. In this little vision-fantasy I'm also singing to the birds and butterflies and they don't attack me just so I shut up, just to show you what kind of magic Hilde Soliani has weaved.

Sipario (Teatro Olfattivo Di Parma collection) is another one I was supposed to hate. I don't do pineapple. I don't even like Ananas Fizz. But this Pina Colada scent is so much fun that it won me over with its happy, optimistic ways. It's the ultimate beach fragrance and would make one forget all the bikini neurosis and just have fun.

Vecchi Rossetti (Teatro Olfattivo Di Parma) is a delicate wood and flowers combination. I get more powdery violets than anything else, and it has an air of antique pink porcelain, carved wooden figurines and a well-stocked dressing table. It reminds me of the good perfumes of yore, pre-reformulations, when elegant leather notes didn't scare away young women.

Bell’Antonio (Teatro Olfattivo Di Parma), the most unisex of this group, is a holographic experience. Wear it and you're in an Italian coffee shop, where the roasted aroma is slowly surrendering to the cigarette smoke in the air. That's actually my problem with this scent. I love a good tobacco note in fragrance, but I absolutely hate the real thing and have been a life-long anti-smoking advocate. Wearing Bell'Antonio makes me and my clothes smell like a smoker, and I just can't deal with it. Interestingly enough, on my husband the perfume is much cleaner, but even the little tobacco he gets bothers him. It doesn't change the fact that it's a beautiful perfume, just not for us.

Acquiilsssssima is a new scent from the Profumo e Gusto in Libertà range. It was inspired by chef Claudio Sadler. It's clever, original and shows that not all marine notes were created equal. While it evokes salt water and fresh air, there's none of the horrible, stomach-turning note from synthetic Calone. Instead, you get a play on salty and sweet, like a transparent Fleur de Sel Caramels. There's a hint of spice and jasmine, of all thing, and the big surprise here is how well it all works together. This perfume (like all the others, actually) is complex, layered and always evolving.

Hilde Soliani perfumes are available from New London Pharmacy in NYC (beware of their utterly outrageous shipping fee) and Luckyscent/Scent Bar in L.A. (though they only offer Il Tuo Tulipano out of the Ti Amo range). The Perfumed Court has samples of all the scents from the first two lines. I can't wait for the entire Profumo e Gusto in Libertà to be available here, because two of the scents sound beyond scrumptuous: Saaliiisssiimo is a risotto with saffron and liquorice, while Doolciiisssimo is about a custard cream with cherry flavoured leaves of tobacco pipe. You can read more about them in this Perfume Shrine post.

Photo: Parma, Teatro Farnese by Judith Barath from worldisround.com

Winners of Tauer Un Rose Chypree Samples

2009-06-21T23:34:00.004-04:00

Kamo and Edwardian are the lucky winners of Andy Tauer's Un Rose Chypree samples. Please email me your address.

Also, if by any chance the person who left comment no. 52 (the anonymous one on June 20, 2009 9:25 PM eastern time) is reading this, please also send me an email (the address is here on the right).

Thanks to everyone who participated!

image: Tauer Perfumes

The Evolving Style Of Evan Rachel Wood

2009-06-21T22:53:00.003-04:00

I have a hard time figuring out what's going on with Evan Rachel Wood.

She was never into puppies puppies-and-rainbows roles, even when she was a cute, fresh-faced girl. From playing a young teen struggling with an eating disorder and ambiguous sexuality on the dearly departed series Once And Again (where are Zwick & Herskovitz and why won't they come and rescue the coming TV season?) to a disturbing role in every parent's nightmare, Thirteen. Then she really turned into her own mother's nightmare and brought Marilyn Manson home for dinner.

During her Manson years, Evan Rachel Wood's appearance became more than a little disturbing. Between the goth thing and a growing resemblance to Manson's ex wife, Dita Von Teese, she looked much older than her 19-20 year old self.

She didn't lighten up much even after she stopped sharing her bed and eyeliner with the prince of fugliness, but lately she's been looking almost normal, though not really like a 21 year old.

Photos: AllPosters.com, contactmusic.com and Just Jared

Top 10 Memorable Masculine Fragrances

2009-06-18T23:59:00.002-04:00

In honor of Father's Day, Elena of Perfume Shrine and I wanted to honor men and the scents they wear.

Fathers, spouses, old boyfriends, scent twins- they all have one thing in common: they (and us) create memories. Nothing is more emotionally triggering than scent. Think of your father's old cologne from the 70s (did he wear Old Spice? Did he later graduated to the original Polo?) or the Drakkar Noir of your first boyfriend. Did you ever date a man who wore Creed Green Irish Tweed and made you think of Cary Grant (the story is that GIT was created for him)? Did your little brother drench himself in Axe before his first date? Maybe you had a great teacher or work mentor who used to wear Grey Flannel, or had your heart broken by a Chanel Égoïste fan (I did). The point is that it's not just our Shalimar that creates special moments.

Things have changed since the days of the ubiquitous bottle of Polo, and the choices are many. Here's my list of (very) memorable masculine scents for the unforgettable men in our lives. In no particular order:

1. Tauer Perfumes-Lonestar Memories
Smoky, strong and outdoorsy at times, warm leather, herbal with a hint of Lapsang Souchong. More interesting and sophisticated than the cowboy image.

2. Tom Ford Private Blend-Tuscan Leather
Soft, smooth and as leathery as they come. Warm and inviting, evokes both a leather jacket and an old study full with leather-bound books.

3. Mazzolari-Lui
An animalic patchouli like no other. Sweet and dangerous (especially if over-applied).

4. Serge Lutens-Gris Clair
Burnt lavender. A bit brooding, yet clean and crisp.

5. Guerlain-Vetiver
A great classic. Citrus top over green vetiver. Perfectly tasteful.

6. Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier-Iris Bleu Gris
Dry to the bone, earthy without being dirty.

7. JAR-Shadow
Damp and mysterious. A visit to dark cellars and forgotten attics.

8. Frederic Malle-Vetiver Extraordinaire
Dry and bitter vetiver, yet still green. A scent to take over the boardroom before going out to take Manhattan.

9. Hermes-Terre d'Hermes
Perhaps the most popular in this bunch, yet somewhat controversial. Orange peel and minerals, crisp and strong.

10. Comme des Garcons-Monocle Scent One: Hinoki
Incense, evergreens, a forest floor.

Please visit Perfume Shrine for more unforgettable masculine fragrances.

Fashion, We Have A Problem

2009-06-17T23:16:00.002-04:00

This is what Ashley Olsen , Molly Sims and (the otherwise gorgeous) Lake Bell wore to the 2009 CFDA Fashion Awards.

Eleanor Roosevelt? Halloween customs? Was there a theme the other attendant of the event weren't notified about?

What say you?

Serge Lutens- Un Bois Vanille

2009-06-16T21:44:00.005-04:00

It occurred to me that while Un Bois Vanille was my first step into the Lutens universe, I never actually reviewed it beyond telling the world I was completely and utterly smitten. It probably had to do with being too busy cooing at my bottle.

My love affair with Un Bois Vanille has unleashed my passion for gourmand notes. The richness of the anise/licorice, milky coconut and roasted, caramel-like sweetness reminds me of making dulce de leche at home. It's too interesting and complex to be a simple comfort scent. It's darker than many other vanilla perfumes, and while I often see it compared to Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille, I find them very different. SDV is very boozy, and while I like it well enough, my skin neutralizes most of the interesting aspects of smoky incense and leaves me with something too simple. Un Bois Vanille has that Lutensic (Lutenesque?) magic that makes household items start singing and dancing.

Un Bois Vanille can be intoxicating by itself, but it's also a wonderful team player when layering. It works well with many other Lutens fragrances. Try, for example, with Louve, Rousse or Chene. But I also go outside the family: it transforms Eau d'Hadrien and makes it sparkle over the rich vanilla base. But the most wonderfully outrageous combination is something I thought about one day when I layered UBV with Fleurs d'Oranger (another good one): the next day I wore two (small) sprays of Un Bois Vanille and two dabs of Rubj (Vero Profumo). It just might be my greatest contribution to the world.

Un Bois Vanille ($120) is part of Serge Lutens export range and available wherever the other square perfumes are sold. In the US it means Barneys, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Blue Mercury, Aedes, Scent Bar (Luckyscent), Beauty Habit and probably a few others. Most of them also offer it online. If I remember correctly, I bought mine from Aedes.

Photo of homemade dulce de leche by audinou on flickr

The Many Faces Of Lancome Blush Subtil

2009-06-15T22:08:00.004-04:00

It wasn't that long ago that most of us only had one blush in our makeup stash at any given time. After all, once we've found our perfect shade, why would we need other colors? We'd go through compact after compact of the chosen blush, getting a new one as soon as we'd hit the pan and not give it any thought until the color or the formula were discontinued (which didn't happen that often back then). Remember those simple days?

I recently looked through my makeup cabinet and realized that blushing has become a serious business. I own blushes from many of the leading brands, but somehow managed to amass the most compacts by Lancome. Probably because I started using them in the late 80s and have kept buying them ever since.

The oldest one I have is Blush Subtil in Bronze Glow. I probably first bought it one summer when I was under the influence of too much sun and self tanner, otherwise I can't explain it. It's even worse to admit that I've gone through at least two. It's an almost metallic medium bronze that is way too dark for me and shouldn't be worn as blush at all. Lightly applied it can function as a bronzer, which is how I use it now (and only on summer evenings). If you're pale, stay far away. It'd give you the infamous muddy look.

Once I've realized my mistake, I turned to Blush Subtil in Cappucine. This one makes a lot more sense with my coloring, but it's very beige and only looks good if I have another color on my face to perk it up. It works best with a red lipstick, when the somewhat pale cheeks look sophisticated and not wilted (and in a dire need for some happy pills).

Next came Aplum, which is still my go-to color most days. It neutralize my green undertones and looks very flattering. It requires a light hand so my cheeks don't look painted, but generally it's almost fool-proof. Aplum is comparable to another favorite, Dallas by Benefit. If you're a Dallas user, chances are Aplum would work for you.

My latest discovery at the Lancome counter was that I can actually go much lighter than I've ever thought. It probably has to do with religious use of sun blocks and completely giving up on self tanners, but I've rediscovered my natural skin and it's a lot lighter than I thought. Cedar Rose is closer to Cappucine but with a distinct rosy pigment, and was my most worn color during the winter. Very pretty, very easy to wear, doesn't clash with most of my lipsticks.

Blush Subtil Shimmer in Violet Sunrise was a GWP. It's more challenging as it's a cooler color, lighter than Aplum, darker than Cedar Rose. Applied lightly it actually works nicely and is less vibrant than expected. It belongs to the "pop of color" department, but the shimmer isn't overwhelming so it's a nice summer color.

Lancome Blush Subtil and Blush Subtil Shimmer ($29.50) are available from every decent department store and Sephora, as well as their online outlets. I buy mine at my local Saks and Bloomingdale's.

Vintage (is 1982 considered vintage?) Lancome ad: paperpursuits.com