The Non-Blonde

Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Volupte (Luscious Pink/Rose Savoureux 23)

2009-11-20T12:13:00.002-05:00

I blame the YSL newsletter. It had a photo of their four nude colors for the wonderful Rouge Volupte lipstick that actually acknowledge that "nude" can be various shades and giving us options, instead of one generic beige that rarely looks good. Since their Exquisite Plum is among my favorite high drama evening colors, I was very happy to find an everyday, easy to wear neutral color that goes with almost any eye makeup and outfit.

Rouge Volupte in Luscious Pink is now my constant companion, together with my wallet, phone, sunglasses and car keys. I need it with me. The color is a warmer pink version of my natural lip color, and it lights up the face. It's not too pink, not too warm, just perfect for a happy, healthy, effortless look. This lipstick has all the great qualities of the Rouge Volupte line: creaminess, rich pigment, great coverage, superb lasting power and the feel of a lip balm.

Bottom line: Big, big love.

YSL Rouge Volupte lipstick ($34) is available from most decent department stores, Sephora and yslbeautyus.com (or the matching company site for your country).

All photos by me except the top one, which came from the YSL newsletter.

Jean Patou- Lasso

2009-11-19T20:08:00.003-05:00

There's very little information available about Lasso, an old and long-forgotten perfume from the house of Patou. It's not even clear when exactly it was launched. Some online sources are dating it as a 1936 release, the year Jean Patou died. But I've also seen various mentions of 1956 and 1957, which seems to be supported by ads from the late 1950s, stating Lasso was a new perfume.

One thing is for sure: Lasso was created with one thing it mind. Seduction.

The English version of these ads call Lasso "Your secret weapon", which is quite appropriate for this beautiful leather chypre. I could not find a list of notes, but some things are quite apparent. Lasso was not a Bandit clone. If anything, it's more closely related to Mitsouko, as before the more leathery drydown there's a rich fruity heart which smells more than a little peachy. It's a little powdery and I wouldn't be surprised to find out there's some heliotrope in there. The combination feels very round and smooth, no jagged edges and spiky heels. More like a velvet evening gown and matching satin shoes, but with more than a hint of tasteful cleavage, an elegant updo and heirloom jewelry. Lasso is well-bread but promises a little naughtiness if you linger close enough.

Just as it is unclear when Lasso was launched, I can't find any information on what year Patou has discontinued it. Bottles pop up here and there on eBay, and I've noticed they come in several shapes, and that there must have been both an EDT and a parfum extrait. As you can see, my own bottle looks different than the one illustrated in the ad. I have a couple of other vintage Patou perfumes in a similar bottle, but they are from different years, so it doesn't help to solve the mystery.

Lasso ad from Joan Thewelis on Flickr, bottle photo by me, handsome model: Peter.

Fresh Brown Sugar Body Cream

2009-11-19T15:35:00.004-05:00

The 1 oz tube of Fresh Brown Sugar Body Cream was a Sephora Beauty Insider GWP, and I must say I'm glad I didn't pay for it. I used to have several favorite products from Fresh and I still remember the wonderful scent of the Bulgarian Rose line. But that was before the company was sold to LVMH and lost its soul.

Kristen, The Beauty Addict, has already touched on the silliness of naming a product Brown Sugar while making it smell of lemon. The very synthetic citrus has nothing of the dark molasses-like aroma you'd expect from the name, and there's nothing rich or comforting in the cream's texture or performance. Maybe someone whose skin is dry and doesn't require deep nourishment from body creams would find it acceptable, but I don't. I kept testing the Brown Sugar cream under several circumstances (day, night, exposed skin, covered skin, cold day and balmy weather), but the result was always the same: within an hour of application I had to reach for another cream or lotion, because my skin was showing signs of dryness.

Bottom line: No.

Fresh Brown Sugar Body Cream ($35, 6.8 oz) is available from Sephora and Fresh boutiques. As I said above, the 1oz tube I have was a GWP.

Image: ehow.com

Laura Geller Eye Rimz (Potion)

2009-11-19T11:49:00.000-05:00

Sephora calls Laura Geller's Eye Rimz a baked eye shadow. The label on the actual box says "baked wet/dry eye accents", which is much more accurate. Using Eye Rimz as a plain dry shadow is a bit frustrating. The pigment is very dark and takes too much work to blend, there's a lot of fallout and the color itself (at least of Potion, the dark purple) was far less pretty than in the compact. But wetting the brush and using it as an eyeliner was a different experience. It goes on smoothly, creating a flawless line with a pearly finish that brings out the best of the color.

Used dry, Potion Eye Rimz was more of an inky violet. Wet application brings out the rich purple hues (cool tones). Lasting power is very good, but it flakes a little when used dry and I had to do several clean ups to keep my face from turning purple, so I can't recommend it as a dry shadow.

Bottom line: Only if you're looking for a purple cake eyeliner.

Laura Geller Eye Rimz ($26) is available from Sephora and dermstore.com. I ordered it from the latter.

All photos are mine.

Tom Ford Private Blend- Purple Patchouli

2009-11-19T00:27:00.004-05:00

Today's edition of "What was Luca Turin smelling?" is brought to you by Purple Patchouli from Tom Ford's Private Blend. Labeled in The Guide as a "harsh floral" and declared a green chypre "with a rasping floral accord reminiscent of those sticky spring blooms that smell halfway between fish skin and honeysuckle", it was probably not the biggest seller of the 12 original Private Blend perfumes. But not because of any fish skin issue, if you ask me. Purple Patchouli's downfall was most likely that it smells like a real perfume of yore- a dark, big flower looming behind a sweet leather screen. For some odd reason, people don't want to smell like this, and that's a very sad thing.

I don't know about patchouli. I don't smell much (if any) of it in Purple Patchouli. But it sure smells purple. While I agree with Dr. Turin about a chypre leaning, it's definitely not green when I wear it. It's sweet, but doesn't cross the line into candied violets, and have I mentioned this perfume is dark? There's certainly an image of a weird and exotic flower, a mutant orchid ensconced in a beautiful leather case. It's elegant, noticeable and feels very feminine, though I'm sure some men can pull it off. For me, it requires a hat and a matching nail polish. This season's Vendetta from Chanel comes to mind.

Purple Patchouli is one of several scents from the Private Blend line that are being discontinued . It is still available ($180 for 1.7 oz, $450 for 8.3 oz) from the top department stores.

Photo by Richard Avedon for a Harper's Bazaar fashion spread titled Ultra Violet, 1958.

Kanebo Sensai Cellular Performance Wrinkle Repair Cream

2009-11-18T14:20:00.002-05:00

One thing I've learned in the last four or five years is that skin care really matters. It won't make you taller, skinnier or smarter, but good skin care used consistently (religiously, actually) makes a world of difference in the way we look. And feel.

It's not always a question of price, gold packaging and a formula made of Martian minerals and unicorn tears. Independent studies and my own forehead have shown that the $22 No. 7 serum from Target is an extremely effective wrinkle correction substance (these studies say nothing about battle scars you get when fighting other shoppers over the last bottle on the shelf). But when it comes to face creams and moisturizers with anti-aging properties, the more research and advanced technology that goes in the product, the better it can be. While this means a hefty price tag, it's usually worth it.

I've been using Kanebo Sensai Cellular Performance Wrinkle Repair Cream for the last couple of months. I don't have any serious wrinkles (and we all know that there's only so much a face cream can do once they actually set in), but I can confirm a case of a very happy skin. The Cellular Performance cream does an excellent work on the nourishing front. My skin looks and feels plump and very smooth. A few days of use revealed an extra radiance, and no matter what- it seems to retain a high level of moisture, which is probably half the secret of the Kanebo Sensai products I've encountered so far.

I've been using the Cellular Performance cream alternately with my Holy Grail, Lancome Secret de Vie. The Kanebo Sensai product is thicker and takes a little longer to absorb, so I prefer it at night. When I wake up in the morning there's a visible difference in the liveliness of my skin. My husband, of course, has no idea what I'm talking about.

Bottom line: I wouldn't expect miracles, but it works very well.

Kanebo Sensai Cellular Performance Wrinkle Repair Cream ($240, 40 ml) is available from Bergdorf Goodman. I was provided with a press sample by the company.

Image: sensai-cosmetics.com

Paul & Joe Eye Color (Russian 19)

2009-11-18T13:00:00.003-05:00

I have a thing for teal and green eye shadows. We all need a bold, unusual color in our wardrobe, and teal is mine. I'm not daring enough to go all out with it, but I like blending teal with a neutral eye shadow, so there's just a hint of color to brighten the eyes.

Paul & Joe Eye Color in Russian (no. 19) is my current favorite. It's quite similar to Laura Mercier's Satinée Crème Eye Colour in Teal Cashmere, both in color, ease of blending and the ability to build the color. It has the advantage of being a pressed powder, which is quicker to get right (at least if you're me).

There's a great overview of Paul & Joe's makeup line over at The Beauty Look Book. We seem to be on a similar wave length, shopping-wise, which is a lot of fun. Lina usually covers the light and nude colors while I go for the dark ones. So stay tuned for some more Paul & Joe fun on both our blogs.

Paul & Joe Eye Color single eye shadow ($20) is available from Bergdorf Goodman, Beauty Habit and dermstore.com, which is where I purchased mine.

Photos by me.

Yves Saint Laurent- Parisienne

2009-11-17T19:44:00.005-05:00

The first time I tried Parisienne, the new perfume from YSL, I hated it. I thought it was one of those chemical warfare perfumes- all synthetic berries, plastic flowers and that ubiquitous modern patchouli note. It's not like I was expecting a lot. I can't stand Elle, YSL's previous release, and while I appreciate the idea of the original Paris, something there was lost in translation between the bottle and my skin. There's also the obvious reformulation of Paris (I assume it's IFRA-related. Luca Turin had mentioned damascone as one of the newly restricted ingredients), which no longer smells the way it used to when I made every attempt to wear it in 1989-1990. Combined with having Kate Moss, a model I absolutely loathe, being the face of the Parisienne campaign and the way was paved for that instant dislike.

I've done my duty, though, and tried it again and again. Eventually, I got used to that plastic feel- they call it a vinyl accord, I call it a cover-up for cheap raw materials. But I have to admit that a rose that doesn't turn sour on me is a welcome change, and the berry notes aren't half bad. They are sunny and cheerful, something I actually enjoyed here and there as a guilty pleasure when the weather started getting cold. Parisienne has a youthful feel without insulting one's intelligence or good taste. And it makes me think of wearing a poodle skirt, so it can't be all that bad.

Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne ($39 for 1 oz, $65 for 1.6 oz EDP) is available from Sephora and most department stores. I got a couple of samples with various online purchases.

Image: www.suzi.se/blog

The Moving Chronicles- Part 2

2009-11-17T18:44:00.004-05:00

Some things are obvious. Just like the wardrobe rule about editing your closet and getting rid of any item you haven't worn in the last three years (the number of years varies according to the style luminaries giving the advice), this is even more true about makeup and other cosmetics. I'm pretty good about this- tossing out mascaras at the 3 months mark and not keeping anything that looks or smells past its prime. So I don't foresee a lot of bottles and jars tossing out, though my cleaning lady's daughter might find herself with a lot more nail polish than she would be able to use in a lifetime.

One of my biggest vices is bath products. Long before I had beauty blogging as an excuse, the area around my bathtub looked like a mini Sephora. You can imagine what happened since. So now I'm on a mission to use as much as possible of the bottles I have out, not to touch any samples of bath products I have around and to try and finish at least one shampoo bottle and one shower gel before moving day. We'll see how it goes.

Then there's skin care. Moving is stressful enough, so the last thing I need is a case of skin freakout. So no testing of new creams, cleansers and serums until I'm settled in my new bathroom and beauty closet. All the samples I currently have waiting are going to be packed first and unpacked last, to ward off temptation. And as for the current products in my rotation, I'm going to check if I have travel size and samples of the same things, so I can put away as many pots and jars as possible. If nothing, it'd make me feel more accomplished and productive.

If you have any bathroom packing advice, please share in the comments.

Photo: Janet Leigh in Psycho (1960). Found on the Daily Mail website.

Le Metier de Beaute Nail Lacquers (Recherche Red)

2009-11-17T18:17:00.004-05:00

Trendy nail polish colors are fun. I've been playing with the darkest purple, taupe and gray, not to mention Chanel Jade, but in the end there's nothing like a sexy deep red. I was reminded of this when I first tried Le Metier de Beaute nail polsh in Recherche Red at my local Neiman Marcus. The color was stunning even in the ugly artificial department store light, and even more so when I gave myself a proper manicure later at home.

One of the best things about Le Metier de Beaute nail polish (other than the depth of their pigments, the shine and overall quality, that is) is the size. The bottles are very small and you're less likely to get stuck with a million barely-touched polish bottles. Let's face it: as much as I love many of Chanel's limited edition colors, one bottle of each is a lifetime supply for those of us who constantly change their polish colors.

Le Metier de Beaute Nail Lacquers ($15) are available from Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. The Le Metier de Beaute counter at my local Neiman in the Garden State Plaza is fairly new- only opened a couple of months ago, and the service is impeccable.

All photos are mine.

Guerlain Terracotta Light Sheer Bronzing Powder- Blonde

2009-11-17T15:14:00.005-05:00

I've loved Guerlain Terracotta Light Sheer Bronzing Powder from the very first time I tested it a couple of years ago and have gone through my first compact of this bronzer very quickly. My color has always been Brunette (02) and it gave me a lovely sun kissed glow. That is, until recently, when the change in my skin tone has become very obvious and Brunette became too dark for me.It's weird, really. I'm not exactly all alabastered out. I'm just a very pale version of myself, so many of my favorite staple products need to go down a notch or two pigment-wise.

I was chatting with the SA at the Guerlain counter at Saks spending some time at Chanel. It was the day I got new (and much lighter) foundation and concealer, which was all the face paint I had on at that point (and some basic eye makeup). The SA commented that I could use some color on my cheeks. She looked at me carefully and reached for Terracotta Light bronzer. In Blonde.

And it worked. Blonde or not, this was the perfect color to bring out some natural looking warmth without going into orange territory. You can see the colors side by side- Blonde is not all that light, after all.

The SA didn't use the regular Terracotta bronzing brush. Instead, she applied the powder with a foundation brush like the one you see here. I've been trying it, but I think I still prefer the fluffy round brushes.

Guerlain Terracotta Light Sheer Bronzing Powder ($50) is available from Sephora and most department stores. I bought it at Saks NYC.

All photos are mine.

Chanel No. 5

2009-11-16T23:04:00.003-05:00

Let's talk about Chanel No. 5.

Ask a random stranger on the street to name a perfume, chances are he or she would say Chanel No. 5. Let someone who has absolutely no interest in fragrance and doesn't wear any to sniff a No. 5 test strip and the person would most likely either recognize it by name or tell you which one of his or her acquaintances wears it. It seems to have always been part of our perfume skyline, beautiful and unmistakable.

Chanel No. 5 is very much an Art Deco perfume. From the use of the then-modern synthetic aldehydes over a classic and opulent rose-jasmine heart, to the elegant and statuesque overall construction. Just think of the Chrysler Building (built a few years after the 1921 launch of Chanel No. 5.

I have several bottles of the assorted formulations and strengths from various vintages spanning the last 25 years. The parfum extrait is the most recent, dating from around 3-4 years ago. While each concentration is an almost entirely different perfume in the way certain facets were treated, they are all still easy to identify as No. 5, no matter if it's sharper, more floral or sporting a very determined sandalwood-vanilla base. Since my No. 5 stash is a bit random and was collected as the bottles crossed my path, mostly from antique stores*, each one has its own attributes.

They all start with that familiar burst of aldehyde notes, the one we are trained to recognize simply as "perfume" and often also as "soap", probably because so many soaps- high end and generic- have been made to resemble this scent over the decades (at least until the idea that it's acceptable to smell like blackberries or a melon took over the world by a terrible storm). Then there's that abstract floral body, which by itself shaped the idea of a floral perfume for generations- Madamoiselle Chanel wanted her first perfume to smell man-made, like a couture gown, not like something that grows in the garden. It's the idea of a flower as depicted in an interpretative artwork.

When it comes to the drydown, some are woodier than others. I tend to favor the sweeter, more vanillic versions. I have half a bottle of the EDP from the late 80s which seems to suit me best on most days, but that's more a skin chemistry thing than a quality assessment. They are all beautiful, but I'm not really a floral-aldehyde fiend and the whole concept doesn't go with my personal style. It's more about a mood. Sometimes I like to play the part- wearing all black, minimal accessories and a vintage piece of jewelry. That's when No. 5 fits best.

Chanel (the fragrance house) has put in a lot of effort to protect their crown jewel over the years and maintain its integrity. I have yet to come across an (authentic) Chanel No. 5 that smells wrong or cheap. Changes and reformulations were made throughout the years, most notably when nitro-musks had to be replaced because of serious toxicity issues. The raw materials are also different between the formulations- only the parfum extrait today is made with Grasse jasmine. The EDT uses Egyptian-grown flowers. However, it seems that the draconian regulation imposed on the industry by IFRA are putting No. 5 in danger. While the concentration of the natural raw materials in the EDT is most likely below the specified level, it is unclear what will happen to the parfum. Chanel isn't very forthcoming with information (as far as I know they wouldn't even admit any changes were made since 1921), which has many perfume lovers worried.

My personal opinion is that if anyone can be the force who would bring back some sanity to the industry it is the house of Chanel. Having an iconic, national treasure status in France, Chanel No.5 must be worth defending and lobbying. It is remained to be seen if this would actually happen (don't hold your breath. There are other factors at play here).

*Chanel No. 5 in EDT and usually also EDP is available in several sizes from most half-decent department stores. The parfum can be found at Saks, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf and their like, and if you're lucky enough to live in Paris, also on the shelves of Sephora and many other perfumeries. One place to avoid is eBay. Chanel perfumes are extremely popular with counterfeiters, thieves and loathsome individuals who refill empty bottles with who knows what and sell it as vintage. Don't. Seriously.

The Moving Chronicles- Part 1

2009-11-16T19:31:00.005-05:00

We're moving. No, the blog stays right here, just the husband, cats and I are relocating 8 blocks to the south. The house we bought is in the same town and the same neighborhood, so it's not that big of a change. But it's our first move in more than ten years and we're a bit set in our ways, which means things are going to get interesting.

Realizing closing is only a few days away, I took a good look at our possessions. We're pretty practical when it comes to furniture. Life with cats forces you into a certain frame of mind. You can't get too emotionally attached to your couch and the only ones arranging things on horizontal surfaces are the felines. As a result, we're not big into knickknacks and haven't owned any breakable decor items since a certain orange tabby disposed of the last vase.

What we have are books. Their number has tripled since we've moved here.

Kitchen equipment. The small collection of vintage enameled cast iron pans circa 1960 isn't going to endear me to the movers.

The beauty closet, which is no longer a closet, as the content has somehow spread throughout the house. Beauty bloggers are a bit insane.

The perfume collection. I've gotten a few sweet emails offering advice about packing it right, protecting The Precious and not taking my eyes off certain irreplaceable items.

And nine cats.

Oy.

Shiseido Maquillage Lip Essence EX

2009-11-16T14:08:00.002-05:00

Every cosmetics user knows the agony of losing a favorite product to the big discontinued beauty counter in the sky. Sometimes (more often than not, actually) everything turns out all right, since companies tend to offer new products and better formulas. But sometimes a products just goes away, leaving us with a gaping hole in our beauty arsenal.

Smooch from Benefit Cosmetics was a weird little thing: a thin, watery, non-balmy lip treatment that performed miracles on chapped lips. I've gone through many tubes of this white runny substance and stocked up when realized it was being discontinued. But my stash has been running low and I started looking earnestly for a good alternative. While I haven't found an exact match, Shiseido Maquillage Lip Essence EX is the closest I've gotten so far.

Shiseido Maquillage Lip Essence EX is considerably greasier than Smooch, but still thin and not sticky (at all). It comforts and heals distressed lips, adding a light shiny coat that transforms a miserable look into a happy, healthy one. It also makes pretty but too dry lipsticks much more comfortable to wear, which saved several tubes in my collection from a back of the closet oblivion.

Maquillage is a mass market brand by Shiseido which, unfortunately, is only sold in Asia. The internet is a beautiful, beautiful thing and allows us to buy good stuff not available in our stores. Shiseido Maquillage Lip Essence EX (around $30) is available from various websites specializing in Japanese cosmetics. Google, as always, is our friend.

Photo by me.

Trish McEvoy Essential Pencil (Plum Brown)

2009-11-16T11:44:00.002-05:00

Lately I'm all about the ease and performance of lip crayons. Bobbi Brown made me a huge fan of her thick pencils, and I've been testing several others, with great success so far. Trish McEvoy Essential Pencils are a touch less creamy than the Bobbi Brown equivalent, but not so much as to make them inferior. Actually, for toting the pencils around in hot weather, something a bit less melty is probably a better choice. The Essential Pencils are still very soft and go on smoothly, giving good coverage and a comfortable feel. They can be worn alone, but I usually prefer them topped with a sheer gloss.

Plum Brown (number 10) is a perfect mauve, it has a somewhat brown base that makes look like a great autumn color. It goes well with my favorite Edward Bess lip gloss (Nude Satin) or with Givency Gloss Interdit in Rose Taboo, creating a polished and elegant look.

The staying power of the Essential Pencil is great. Some pigment survives a cup of tea, though I'd recommend doing some touch ups to restore the look back to perfection.

Trish McEvoy Essential Pencil ($22) is available from most decent department stores. I bought mine at Bergdorf Goodman.

All photos are mine.

Serge Lutens- Un Bois Sepia

2009-11-15T23:13:00.004-05:00

Un Bois Sepia is an odd one in Serge Lutens (sort of) exclusive/non-export* collection. Supposedly part of the Bois series, the spawn of Feminite du Bois, which are all variations on the original fruity-cedar theme, but I can't find an official confirmation for that (the official Serge Lutens website has gone from bad to worse). If my nose is to be believed, Un Bois Sepia is not more a part of the Bois series than Un Bois Vanille or Miel de Bois. It's quite different than anything else in that group and doesn't seem to find its place among the other Lutens creations, either.

Now, as far as I understand, Un Bois Sepia was reformulated approximately two years ago. I think it used to be darker and might have had a touch of moss somewhere in its green structure. I have a travel size atomizer (15 ml?) which I got at Bergdorf Goodman with my full bottle of Bois et Fruits a couple of years ago. This is the newer juice which feels a bit weak and has a more generic green opening.

The top notes make Un Bois Sepia appear like a somewhat classic male cologne. Something green, sheer vetiver, wood and just a little dirt, which on a bad day doesn't agree with my skin. It's the patchouli, I think, which is different than the rich chocolaty patch of Borneo. This one is not as complex and reminds me of the patchouli used in several mainstream fragrances such as Prada (the original women's version) and even Calvin Klein Euphoria without all the icky synthetic fruit. Un Bois Sepia is better, however, and on a good skin chemistry day it actually dries down to a very pleasant dry wood scent. Generally speaking, it usually smells better on my husband and I like it best as something that remains on my scarves or jackets. Still, it's easy enough to wear in a non-nonsense kind of way, even if I don't think it's quite worth the $200 price tag.

*As a Serge Lutens non-export, Un Bois Sepia was originally only available in a bell jar from the Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido in Paris (they sell online and ship in Europe). A couple of years ago, Uncle Serge began releasing some of the non-exports (Bois Violette, Bois et Fruits, Santal de Mysore and Un Bois Sepia) in the regular rectangular atomizer- first, exclusively at Bergdorf in NYC, later adding a few more doors, such as Luckyscent/Scent Bar in L.A., Aedes in NYC and Beauty Habit. The price of those bottles is $200. Don't confuse the limited edition/distribution of the above with the yearly release of one non-export in a regular bottle (with a black label, $140) that usually makes its first appearance at Barneys. This year we were graced with MKK, last year it was Borneo and the year before (if I'm not mistaken)- Fumerie Turque. Then there are Chergui and Chene which seem to have been added to the export line permanently (the latter has also been obviously reformulated in the last year or so).

Samples of Un Bois Sepia (and the rest of the Serge Lutens, export and not) are available from The Perfumed Court. The Posh Peasant also offers most of the line, but currently not this particular one.

Art: Tree O by Robert Cook

39

2009-11-13T10:00:00.000-05:00

Ferme tes Yeux- JAR

2009-11-12T22:58:00.005-05:00

Ferme tes Yeux means close your eyes.

"Close your eyes", Buffy* said to Angel the vampire, her lover, as she kissed him and stuck the sword in his gut and sent him to the hell dimension through the opened portal. Two years before she told him, "When you kiss me I want to die". But that was not her time. Yet.

I asked The Blond what he thinks about when he smells the opening notes of Ferme tes Yeux. His answer: "a wedding in hell". And he means it in the best possible way. It's funny, actually, since the one scent I remember from our wedding is the stargazer lilies from my bouquet. Their scent, blooming in the heat and humidity completely drowned the Panthere de Cartier I wore that night. The deathly part in Ferme tes Yeux is right there at the top, where the decay and animalic notes come jumping at you.

I was quite horrified the first time I smelled Ferme, three years ago in the dark and mysterious JAR alcove at Bergdorf Goodman. It's the last thing you'd expect to smell at this posh 5th Avenue location. The Undead, rot and carnal desires don't exactly belong among the Prada accessories and definitely not where JAR is hidden- right behind the Caron urns and Annick Goutal perfumes. But here I am, three years later, the proud owner of a bottle, one of my top ten scents of all times (for now) which I feel is so very personal to me (probably because only a dozen of people or so are insane enough to wear this thing in public).

So what's in there? The closest approximation to real civet money can buy, most likely, and Mr. Rosenthal, the perfume creator (Joel Arthur Rosenthal= JAR) didn't save it for the drydown. It's as in your face as can be from the very begining. Then there are the flowers. Big, lush, just past their prime (it's a favorite JAR theme, also explored in the magnificent Jardenia). I swear I can smell the lilies from my wedding, some ultra-indolic jasmine and something creamy, but probably not tuberose or gardenia. Maybe ylang-ylang on all its aphrodisiac qualities.

Then there's something spicy- clove or carnation, making the perfume smell like the deranged evil twin of the sparkling Diamond Water. Think of Helena Bonham-Carter as Bellatrix Lestrange just out of Azkaban. What would she smell like?
Things mellow down considerably in the drydown. A berry-like musk takes over, very velvety. If CB Musk and Uncle Serge's Muscs Kublai Khan had fornicated and spawned, the result would have been the sweet drydown of Ferme tes Yeux.

It's magnificent.

For more information and reviews of JAR and his creations, please see my older posts:

1. In which my scent twin and I visit JAR at Bergdorf.
2. A review of Diamond Water. Bring your own tiara.
3. The n00b point of view- my first encounter with JAR perfumes.

*Vampire Slayer, not my fat white cat.
For the Buffy geeks (recommended to switch into HD mode):

Photograph by Norman Parkinson.

A Quick Shopping Tip- Neiman Marcus vs. Bergdorf

2009-11-12T15:04:00.002-05:00

You probably got the email newsletters about the 40% sale going on at both Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. Since the Bergdorf one was at the top of my inbox, I clicked on it first to check what DVF items they had on sale. I found a top I really liked so I proceeded. During checkout, I realized they were about to charge me $16 for shipping and I couldn't find a free shipping coupon anywhere.

Now, Bergdorf and Neiman Marcus share not just the user interface but basically the entire site. As far as I could tell, the 40% sale is the same at both online stores, so I switched to Neiman, found the blouse- same sale price and used the current free shipping Coupon, SHOPNM.

So, if you're planning to indulge, do it at Neiman.

Laura Mercier Shimmer Lip Colour Lipstick (Violet)

2009-11-12T11:19:00.002-05:00

I was at the Laura Mercier counter with the intention to buy the Satin Lip Colour lipstick in Currant, a gorgeous deep rose plum. I tried it on the spot, and while the formula felt soft and weightless, the semi-matte texture was the kind that sinks right into the tiny scar on my bottom lip and make it stand out. Sadly, that meant I had to pass. But I was already there and in the mood for a pretty lipstick, so the SA directed me towards the Shimmer Lip Colour, a range of lipsticks with a soft, moisturizing texture.

Shimmer Lip Colour has an acceptable staying power (some pigment remains after a cup of tea), excellent coverage and is very comfortable to wear, leaving the lips feeling soft even after it's long gone. I liked many of the colors I saw and chose Violet, a medium mauve. While the Laura Mercier website describes Violet as a cool mauve, I actually think it has some red undertone, at least against my skin.

Bottom line: A crowd pleaser.

Laura Mercier Shimmer Lip Colour Lipstick ($22)is available from most department stores, Sephora and lauramercier.com. I bought mine at Bergdorf Goodman.

All photos by me.

Hermès-Elixir des Merveilles

2009-11-11T22:11:00.003-05:00

One of my mother's greatest acts of sorcery is making candied citrus peels. Taking stuff that's normally considered trash and turning it into an amazing, vanilla-laced delicacy, has always amazed me. The process involves several days and makes the kitchen smell heavenly from the beginning, when the peel is cooked in a sugar syrup, to the drying stage, when large trays of them are set to dry after being rolled in sugar with a touch of vanilla. Naturally, some of my fondest memories involve this scent.

Then there are the store-bought chocolate-dipped candied citrus peels, which are a quick and efficient way to my heart. La Maison du Chocolat has some really good ones, but I'm always willing to settle when Whole Foods' choclaterie offers them. The closest perfume version of this treat that I've found so far is Hermès Elixir des Merveilles.

The Merveilles series actually has three different perfumes. The original, Eau des Merveilles, is an eau de toilette, and is quite famous for its salty ambergris accord. It's a beautiful scent, worthy of its own review, but it does not satisfy a sweet tooth on a day one wants to smell edible. The parfum version, Parfum des Merveilles, is a darker, woodier version of the EDT. The subject of this review is the EDP, Elixir des Merveilles, which is technically a flanker. Composed by Jean-Claude Ellena (the other Merveilles were created by Ralf Schwieger and Nathalie Feisthauer), though not very Ellenistic in concept (chocolate? caramel? by the Overlord of transparent minimalism?), Elixir des Merveilles is a grownup gourmand, one that doesn't insult one's idea of tastefulness while still allowing you climbing into bed smelling yummy.

I've found several lists of possible notes that don't always agree with each other. There's no doubt we're dealing with a candied orange, cocoa or chocolate, creamy sandalwood and a patchouli-vetiver mix in the drydown that on the wrong day can smell a bit masculine, but I don't really mind. Then again, I own a bottle of Elena's Terre d'Hermes, the manly interpretation of the orange-wood theme, which I find to be invigorating and energizing.

While the chocolate-orange combination calls to mind winter holidays, celebratory liqueurs and truffle gift boxes, I actually like wearing it in warmer weather. I find that balmy days bring out more depth out of the Elixir, while it can be a bit flat on a cold day. Still, I know most people would rather avoid chocolate perfumes in summer and would enjoy it much better this season.

Elixir des Merveilles and its other relatives are available from Hermes boutiques and some department stores. The retail price for the 1.7 oz bottle is $100, but one look online would show you that it can easily be found under $40. Hermès website also offers a 13.3 oz (not a typo) bottle for $440. My husband called this bottle The Mouthwash, and frankly, it makes me wonder about the real cost of the juice inside and the enormous markup brought by the Hermès name.

Photo: browniepointsblog.com

Courtney Cox At The TV Guide Hot List Party

2009-11-11T20:02:00.002-05:00

I don't want to be mean because I like Courtney Cox, who other than her case of unmovable face has always seemed like a genuine person. But looking at photos from the TV Guide Hot List Party I have to wonder: at what point does it become a better idea to stop with the Botox and go for an eye lift? I'm not dissing Botox. Not at all. I've seen it done well with great, normal results. It doesn't have to be as extreme as Nicole Kidman's face, and you can bet your last La Mer jar that when I decide anti-aging creams and serums have done all they could for me, I'm heading straight to the surgeon's office and getting that line between my eyebrows smoothed out.

But here's Cortney Cox, a very beautiful woman whose face are becoming marble-like and not in a good way, but her eyelids seem to be heading south. She's only 45 and I know it's most likely a genetic thing, so when is it time to change course and go for the hardcore scalpel?

Photo: A Socialite's Life

Kat Von D Rock'n'Roll Eyeshadow Palette

2009-11-11T14:58:00.003-05:00

A couple of month ago I cashed some of my Sephora Beauty Insider points for the Kat Von D Rock'n'Roll Palette. I have to confess that I don't get Kat Von D or any of the body modification culture. I don't understand the aesthetics or anything else about it. I know I'm extreme: none of the women in my family has ever had her ears pierced for three generations, and even though my great-grandmother had hers done when she was very young, as far as my mom can remember, her grandma never actually wore earrings, not even clip-ons. It's interesting, considering they all loved jewelry and had several beautiful statement pieces, but regarded pierced ears as vulgar.

This might or might not explain why piercing and tattoos are so out of my personal comfort zone that I can't look at Kat Von D without cringing. I guess I'm not her target audience and never gave the makeup line a second thought until I accumulated too many points and had to redeem them for something, and the Rock'n'Roll Palette looked decent enough. Which it is, just not really good.

The colors are fine. I wasn't sure about the lavender purple one, but as you can see in the swatches, it's not quite s bright as in the pan. Still, not really my color and doesn't look very healthy against my skin, but that's what you get when you're clearly related to Martians. The two light colors- a shimmery white and a shimmery peach are actually super sheer. I had to pile on five coats to be able to take a picture. The other problem with them is glitter fallout. In the palette they both look more pearly than glittery, but once you apply the eye shadows, there's a lot of glitter landing on your cheeks, and that's over a primer. When swatching I only used a light lotion underneath and had to do some cleanup before I could take a clear picture. The dark glittery charcoal, on the other hand, has a lot less glitter than you'd expect from looking at the palette. It would have made a nice liner if it weren't so crumbly.

I'm spoiled, I admit. The products in my regular rotation, from Armani to Edward Bess, have taught me to expect gorgeous shades and superb quality. Kat Von D's below average color payoff and questionable texture are just not my idea of excellence in makeup. I understand that her prices are very attractive: the current eye shadow palettes in the regular line offer 8 colors for $34 (Dior Palettes run between $42 to $58), but even in the Kat Von D price range you can do better- Cargo palettes are great and priced at $32 and Urban Decay has several options between $30-38.

Bottom line: Don't look a gift horse in the mouth.

Photos of the palette and swatches by me, Kat Von D from hollyscoop.com.

Annick Goutal Myrrhe Ardente (Les Orientalistes)

2009-11-10T21:59:00.002-05:00

It seems that Myrrhe Ardente is the least popular scent in Annick Goutal's Les Orientalistes series, which is too bad because this is a beautiful and complex composition that deserves more than the label of a "root bear float". But I understand where it came from and why. There is something very earthy and root-like in the heart. Myrrhe Ardent is also a little different than the other Les Orientalistes. Somehow, it smells less personal, more like a "thing", which makes me a bit self-conscious when I'm wearing it in public.

I'm not really sure why it feels this way. After all, this is a much softer myrrh than the Mediterranean shrubbery of Diptyque L’Eau Trois, a scent I love and wear, and is the myrrhiest one I can think of. Myrrhe Ardent is sweet, resinous and has enough vanilla in the drydown to take the edge off the classic combination of myrrh and frankincense. It shouldn't remind anyone of religious rituals. Actually, It's so unique it doesn't remind me of anything in particular- I just enjoy the ride.

As others (like Kevin on Now Smell This) have observed, Myrrhe Ardente and the rest of the Les Orientalistes play well with each other and layer beautifully with other scents. I'll have to try his suggestion for layering it with Uncle Serge's Miel de Bois, and would also experiment with Un Bois Vanille (basically, almost anything layers well with UBV, and it wouldn't be the first Goutal do so- try it with Eau d'Hadrien). I like trying different ratios of Myrrhe Ardente and Ambre Fetiche. I tend to go overboard with the amber, but that's just how I roll. If you have more layering ideas, please share them.

Fill In The Blank

2009-11-10T18:50:00.002-05:00

I want to smell like Pamela Anderson because________________

Photo: The Superficial