The Non-Blonde

Jean Patou- Chaldée (Vintage EDT)

2009-12-17T23:37:00.003-05:00

George Hamilton and his friends in the leathery orange face cult didn't create anything new. As a matter of fact, you can blame Jean Patou, Coco Chanel and the rest of the 1920s high society and trendsetters. Having a tan was no longer limited to those working in the fields, and instead the evidence of a leisurely lifestyle: vacationing in the Riviera, yachting and playing tennis. The bronzed look became desired and fashionable women started using lotions and potions to help them achieve it.

Jean Patou, whose casual sportswear designs (try not to think about sweats with the word "Juicy" printed on one's butt) were all the rage, offered his clients what is now considered the first suntan lotion, Huile de Chaldée. The product gained popularity, and just like today, when tanning oil-inspired perfumes are quite popular (Beach by Bobbi Brown, At The Beach 1966 from CB I Hate Perfume, just to name a couple), a matching perfume called Chaldée followed in 1927.

Modern beach scents have something tropical going on, usually coconut, and lots of musk. Apparently, in Patou's days, the glitterati vacationed amidst hyacinth, orange blossom, jasmine and lots and lots of powder.

To the 21st century nose, Chaldée smells less like the beach and a lot more like an old-fashioned powdery-floarl perfume. I love hyacinth and an ambery drydown is usually right up my alley, but Chaldée can be trying at times. It might be the lilac, a note which can be difficult for me to pull off, or maybe something fussy in the composition as a whole. I have two bottles of the EDT from the 80s, one clearly in better shape than the other. Both have some pretty moments and I like putting some on and thinking of faraway times and places, but generally speaking, Chaldée is not my favorite from the Patou archives.

Chaldée, like the rest of the Ma Collection, has been discontinued and is getting increasingly harder to find, especially at a decent price.

Poster of the Huile de Chaldée ad from 1929: art-and-posters.com (priced at $1200, if you're interested).
Artwork from the 1920s by Romoli Filippo and Edgar Franklin.

Lunch In Beverly Hills- Sarah Michelle Gellar

2009-12-17T18:06:00.002-05:00

There's something very effortless and stylish about Sarah Michelle Gellar. Lip gloss (it could be a Chanel Glossimer in Summer Plum) , a long deconstructed layered necklace, a comfy cap and a Classic Chanel bag. It goes perfect with her skinny jeans. I can't help it- no matter how many crappy movies about Great Danes she would make, I still love her. I'm going to dig into my closet and see if I have the right black blazer.

Photos: Socialite Life

YSL Gloss Pur (Pure Plum 6)

2009-12-17T12:23:00.003-05:00

It doesn't matter how many times I complain about the scent of YSL glosses, I still buy them for the color, shine and overall gorgeousness. Gloss Pur in Pure Plum (#6) is no different. The same weird mineral fragrance that really doesn't belong in a lip gloss tube, but such a fabulous shade, texture and shine that I reach out for whenever I want a sleek but not too dramatic look.

Depending on the amount you apply, it can serve as top coat for a lipstick or stand alone. When swatching on my hand or straight on the brush (see photo) the pigment looks a lot richer than it is on the lips, but I suspect it has a lot to do with the natural color of the lips- mine are quite dark. So when I wear Pure Plum it looks like a sheer red plum. It's the kind of color I can wear everywhere, though the high shine makes it a bit dressy.

Like all YSL glosses, the staying power is about average and it's not too sticky.

Bottom line: A staple.

Yves Saint Laurent Gloss Pur ($29) is available from all YSL counters. I bought it at Sephora.

All photos by me.

Gucci Flora (Eau de Toilette)

2009-12-16T23:36:00.003-05:00

I guess the universe was trying to tell me something, since for the last couple of months almost every time I bought cosmetics anywhere- online or in store- someone has shoved a sample of Flora by Gucci into my bag or package. I smelled it before and wasn't very impressed, but as the samples started to accumulate, I realized I'll have to properly test Flora and review it. You don't want to mess with the universe.

So how is Flora? It's floral, alright. And fruity, and has some osmanthus and patchouli in it somewhere, which makes it as trendy as they come. As far as fruity-florals go, Flora isn't bad or juvenile, even though it's obviously geared towards the young, shower-fresh loving crowd. I'm thankful it never goes syrupy or vulgar. Actually, Flora is very sheer, almost gauze-like, and very inoffensive. It'd work as a lovely gift for a young girl when you don't want to alarm her parents, as well as for someone older you're not quite sure actually wears perfume (not that I'd recommend giving something as personal as a fragrance to someone you don't really know, but people have done weirder things during the holidays).

Pale and inoffensive fruity-florals are really not my thing, but the worst thing I can say about this Gucci creation (actually, it's a Proctor & Gamble Prestige perfume, as they hold the Gucci perfume license) is that the world according to IFRA is a boring place. Flora is well done for what it is, and as I discovered with the much superior Nuit de Cellophane from Serge Lutens, I actually like the fruity aspect of osmanthus when combined with other lush flowers. So, basically, Flora is Nuit de Cellophane's timid, virginal cousin who was raised by strict religious parents and was never allowed to have any fun.

Bottom line: Go for the real thing.

Flora EDT by Gucci ($52 for 1 oz) is available from Sephora and most department stores, from Bergdorf down. You can get free samples everywhere under the sun.

Perfume ad: Gucci.com

Are You Having A Bad Day?

2009-12-16T15:29:00.001-05:00

This photo of Clint Eastwood from a 1971 Playboy fashion spread (indeed) just might improve your day.

Photo from superseventies.tumblr.com

Paul & Joe Lipstick And Lip Liner (Reckless 63, Fig 6)

2009-12-16T13:03:00.004-05:00

Between the lovely packaging and the gel-like texture of Reckless, Paul & Joe's limited edition lipstick, there was very little chance I wouldn't like it. Add to it a perfect (for me) day-to-night red and you've got a big, big love.

Not everyone wears red lipstick during the day, but if you have an olive skin and a penchant for darker colors, Reckless just might be your next favorite lipstick. It's not too dramatic and wouldn't get you mistaken for Gwen Stefani, but it's right on trend and looks very flattering. Paler faces would probably keep it to night time, where it's right at home.

It's interesting to note how rich and deep the pigment wears, despite the balmy texture. When I first tested Reckless, I expected it to be almost sheer because it felt like a gel. Yet, the coverage is great and it's a real woman's lipstick.It stays on relatively well and doesn't feather. You'll need to reapply after lunch, which would be a great excuse to pull out the beautiful tube and admire it again. I just love the paisley print on the outside and the embossed flower on the lipstick itself. It's these small touches that make Paul & Joe makeup such a treat (not to mention a great gift).

When I was at Bergdorf I also got a Paul & Joe lip liner. Number 6, Fig, didn't look like a perfect match when I tested it on my arm (as you can see in the swatch). It has more brown than Reckless and I didn't think they'd go together. Apparently, I might be wrong, as the liner looks softer when applied to my lips and the lipstick covers and blends with it nicely. Still, I admit I'd rather pair each one with other lipsticks and liners, because I wouldn't risk the Pamela Anderson look.

Paul & Joe limited edition lipstick in Reckless -63 ($20) and Fig lip liner ($16) are available from Bergdorf Goodman and beautyhabit.com.

Photos by me.

Strange Invisible Perfumes- Narcotic

2009-12-15T23:43:00.002-05:00

It's tuberose.

Yes, there's smoky vetiver even in the opening, a creamy blend of sandalwood and orange blossom that feels decadent and the official notes also mention vanilla, but Narcotic from Strange Invisible Perfumes is orchestrated to show all that tuberose can do to one's senses. The result is stunning, not safe for work or for meeting your future in-laws and would probably send the wrong message on a first date. Yes, it's that wicked.

Narcotic is Fracas raised by wolves. It's untamed and uncivilized, refuses to wear shoes and should do something with her hair. It's also a lot of fun and a reminder what natural perfumery can achieve. As is the case with all the scents from Strange Invisible Perfumes, the parfum version is superior both in depth and in staying power. Hints of white flowers can be found on my pillow or scarves the morning after, and they are just as delicious.

A commenter mentioned that the Strange Invisible Perfumes line is no longer sold at Barneys, which is really a shame. This line deserves much better exposure than it currently gets. Samples (as I purchased) and full bottles are available online (siperfumes.com) and from the boutique on 1138 Abbot Kinney Boulevard, Venice, California.

Image from thedirtythirties.tumblr.com

YSL Touche Eclat and Chanel Stylo Eclat Lumiere

2009-12-15T23:09:00.002-05:00

YSL Touche Eclat has been around forever. I still remember many years ago when my mom bought this miracle pen for the first time. The concept of a concealer-highlighter was quite revolutionary and for a while YSL was more or less alone in this arena. I can't be sure, but the formula has probably changed and improved over the years. They have added several shades, which helps a lot, though my last visit to the Yves Saint Laurent counter at Saks found three SAs peering over my face trying to determine my undertone. It went something like this:
SA 1: "well, you're not pink. Do you have blue undertone?"
SA2: "No, she's not blue. You're not blue, Dear"
SA3: "Maybe yellow? I don't know"
SA1: "Green! What goes with green?"

Thus I was officially diagnosed as a Martian.

The chosen Touche Eclat shade, by the way, was No. 2. I use it as a highlighter and blend it with a soft concealer brush under my eyes and often apply a tiny amount above my upper lip to enhance the Cupid's bow. But Touche Eclat is not really a concealer, and at times I want something just as light, with the same texture, but also a little coverage. I've tried several products at various makeup counters and ended up with Chanel's Eclat Lumiere. It's actually labeled a highlighter as well, but testing and side-by-side comparing has shown that it gives me just a bit more coverage where I need it, like around the nose. I use Medium, No.35, which is a good match and slightly darker than my Touche Eclat. I couldn't take a decent photo that shows the shades and the difference, so the picture above is all you get, together with the recommendation to try both and see what works for you. And use a real brush when blending. Both pens have an applicator with plastic bristles that aren't good enough for the delicate blending task.

YSL Touche Eclat and Chanel Stylo Eclat Lumiere (both sell for $40) are available from most decent department stores and the companies' websites. I usually buy them at Saks or Bergdorf.

Photo by me.

Lorac Baked Matte Satin Eye Shadow (Posh)

2009-12-15T13:55:00.002-05:00

It was a beauty emergency. Just before the move and the frenzied packing I misplaced my most-used basic eye shadow: Le Metier de Beaute in Nude. It's a seemingly nondescript matte beige color that not only blends with just about anything else I use, but is also just a smidge of a shade lighter than my skin, so it opens up the brow bone and makes everything look better. But I couldn't find it (two weeks later I discovered that I placed it in my purse, thinking this way it would be accessible at all times. Ha!). I needed something quickly and the seven minute drive to Neiman Marcus seemed too much (more the parking situation at the Plaza and the place itself. I really wish Neiman would relocate to Riverside Square Mall, which is infinitely better).

On the way to Whole Foods I dropped by Ulta and looked for a quick fix. You'd think that finding a perfect nude matte eye shadow should be easy, but it was the age-old story of too pink, too yellow, too shimmery, too grainy... Until I looked at the Baked Matte Satin eye shadows by Lorac, and it was clear that Posh was as close as I'd be able to get to perfection that day.

It's an exact match to my skin (hence no swatches. It just doesn't photograph well on my arm), has a very fine texture that doesn't flake or crease and plays nicely with any other eye makeup I'm wearing. It lacks that superior feel of the LMdB, both in the perfect silkiness and in the way Nude almost highlights, but it's still an excellent eye shadow and a great alternative.

Bottom line: I think I might need the Baked Matte Satin eye shadows in Insider (indigo blue) and Social (walnut brown).

Lorac Baked Matte Satin Eye Shadow ($22) is available from Ulta and Sephora, online and in store.

All photos by me.

Strange Invisible Perfumes- Musc Botanique

2009-12-15T00:10:00.002-05:00

It was a nice coincidence that today's post on Perfume Shrine is the first in a series exploring musk. It's a fascinating read about this ancient and multifaceted ingredient and note and a great introduction to Musc Botanique from Los Angeles perfumery house Strange Invisible Perfumes.

Musc Botanique belongs to the carnal/dirty side of musks. It's raw and human, and after the unsettling opening it settles and melts right into my skin. Herbal and almost chewy, the top notes remind me of Ambre Sultan, of all things, but that part doesn't last very long. The rest of the scent is all body, texture and warmth. Sometimes I could swear I smell something rosy and a hint of tuberose, but I think it's my mind's interpretation of a certain sensation. It is somewhat floral and the official notes mention geranium, which explains the rose impression. There's also a ripe, fruity element in the heart, as I find in other (in)famous big musks like the one from CB I Hate Perfume and Uncle Serge's MKK.

All in all, Musc Botanique is a delightful treat for musk lovers in both its formulations- parfum and EDP. I've tried samples of both (purchased from Strange Invisible Perfume website) and my preference is for the parfum, because it's longer lasting and feels even more luxurious. But the EDP is just as fabulous if you don't mind reapplying after a couple of hours.

Musc Botanique and the rest of the SIP line is available online from the company's website (siperfumes.com). Select scents including this one can also be found at Barneys.

Photo of Marilyn Monroe by Edward Clark, August 1950 from life.com

Dior Addict Lipcolor (Decadent Plum 993)

2009-12-14T17:27:00.003-05:00

Because you can't have too many purple lipsticks.

The Dior SA urged me to try it on. The somewhat metallic finish scared me at first because the texture looked a bit too severe in the tube and I was worried it would cling to the scar on my bottom lip and look like a mess. But the color was, indeed, very pretty and I couldn't remember if I've tried Dior Addict in the new formula before, so I had to check it out.

They weren't kidding about the weightless formula and glide-on texture. It really is that great, which helps a lot when it comes to dark lip colors. The new Dior Addict is a real treat: great coverage, comfortable texture (though it's not moisturizing, just wears nicely without drying), lasts for hours (survives a drink, though requires reapplying after lunch) and looks pretty.

Decadent Plum (#993) is definitely a bold color, but not so much as to turn heads when I wear it in the middle of the day. It's red-based and doesn't make teeth look yellow. Actually, the color is so pretty that even my husband noticed. That's an achievement, if you consider the number of lipsticks, purple and others, I tend to try and wear. I suspect it can look great on many a complexion, unless one is suspiciously orange (but if that's the case you have bigger problems than finding the right lipstick).

Bottom line: Worthy of the swankiest holiday party.

Dior Addict Lipcolor ($26) is available from most department stores. While Sephora carries the line, Decadent Plum is not on their website, so it might be in a somewhat limited distribution. I bought it at my local Bloomingdale's.

Photos by me.

And The Winner Is...

2009-12-14T15:49:00.003-05:00

The Winner of the very special Tauer Perfumes giveaway is:

Fernando

Please send me an email and let me know how to contact you.

I want to thank Andy for his wonderful generosity and everyone else for participating- new and old readers. I'm especially happy to "meet" longtime readers who commented here for the first time, and want to welcome all the perfume lovers who have just discovered this blog.

Don't forget: Andy's Advent Calendar is continuing on his blog. Please keep visiting this page for more links and opportunities to win his prizes.

Wishing you a wonderful holiday season!

Photo by Andy Tauer.

Andy Tauer's Advent Calenar, A Giveaway And Jelly Donuts

2009-12-13T00:05:00.003-05:00

I like the idea of Advent, even if as a Jew it doesn't have the same meaning to me as for those who actually observe the season. But the concept of an expectant waiting for something joyous and wonderful is very nice and goes well with other Midwinter themes.

For me, the most wonderful thing about Hanukkah has always been my mother's jelly donuts, which were the reason I counted the days till the first or second night of the festivities, when my mom would spend the whole afternoon making them. Oil-fried foods are a big part of the holiday's tradition (to commemorate of the oil that sustained the Temple's Menorah for eight nights and eight days and what once was your shapely thighs), and nothing is better than homemade donuts. The classic version calls for jelly, but we've also experimented with dulce de leche and Nutella (the husband's favorite). If you ask me, blackcurrant jelly is best, but those who didn't grow up on a very particular way of making Hanukkah donuts would enjoy it equally filled with any not-too-sweet jelly or jam.

As my gift to you and a contribution to Andy Tauer's Advent Calendar, here is my mother's recipe:

Nina's Jelly Donuts

For the dough:

A little more than 5 cups all purpose flour

1 pack dry yeast

1 1/2 cups warm milk

1 egg

2 egg yolks

4 tbs melted butter

4 tablespoons sugar

½ teaspoon salt

Frying:

1 bottle vegetable oil

Filling:

blackcurrant jelly/jam/confiture

powdered Sugar for sprinkling

How to:

1. Dissolve yeast in ¼ cup warm milk (100F degrees)

2. Mix together all dough ingredients, yeast mixture included. Add the flour one cup at a time, making sure how much of the last cup is needed. Knead together JUST until smooth and non-sticky. Don’t overdo it. Let rise for two hours, covered with a towel in a warm spot.

3. Halve the dough without much kneading, .

4. Roll out one half and flatten it until it’s less than ¼ inch thin.

5. Take an empty glass or a round cookie cutter of equal size and GENTLY mark with it circles on the dough leaf.

6. Place 1½ teaspoons of jelly in the middle of each circle.

7. Roll out the other part of the dough. Gently and carefully use it to cover the jelly-filled other half. Don’t let too much air inside.

8. Cut dough circles using the glass/cookie cutter. Make sure that the jelly is in the middle of each donut.

9. Put donuts on a flour-sprinkled baking pan, cover and let rise again for about 45 minutes.

10. Heat oil in a large (but not too deep) pan that has a cover. When it’s very hot put a few donuts in and cover for 5 seconds. Lift cover; check if the sides are already golden. If so, turn donuts and fry uncovered.

11. Fry until golden and nice, remove to a paper towel covered tray and sprinkle with powdered sugar.

Tips and Notes:

1. The reason you don’t want to over knead the dough is to not make it too dry and floury, which might result in donuts that won’t seal.

2. The same goes for the amount of flour in the recipe. It’s usually a little more than 5 cups, but add gradually.

3. Covering the jelly with the second part of the dough is easier than it sounds. Use both hands.

4. My mom adds peeled chunks of carrot in the oil. They absorb the frying odor.

5. Use the best jelly you can find.

6. These donuts freeze well and are great when defrosted and microwaved for about 35 seconds each. Just be careful, the jelly is hot.

7. Gym membership not included but very much needed after a week of snacking on these donuts.

And now to the real giveaway: a Thuja root box with a full bottle of the winner's choice from Tauer Perfumes, shipped directly from Zurich. All you need to do is leave a comment on this post. The contest is open to all.
I'll announce the winner tomorrow.

Photo of Hanukkah donuts: life.com

The Circle- Moominland Midwinter, Chasing Away The Darkness (And A scent to go with it)

2009-12-12T00:56:00.008-05:00

"There are such a lot of things that have no place in summer and autumn and spring. Everything that's a little shy and a little rum. Some kinds of night animals and people that don't fit in with others and that nobody really believes in. They keep out of the way all the year. And then when everything's quiet and white and the nights are long and most people are asleep — then they appear."

— Too-Ticky in Moominland Midwinter

My original intention was to write about Hanukkah, as it is the part of my heritage that relates to the season and the holiday I and my family celebrate. But since I'm not even remotely religious and my interest in latkes and dreidels is fairly limited (the former is bad for the waistline, the latter doesn't make much sense other than as a lame cat toy), I started thinking in more general terms. The season has been celebrated since the dawn of mankind, long before my people started deep frying stuff and putting candles in the window. If you think of it, both practices have purpose: keeping warm and bringing in the light during the time of the year it's bitterly cold outside and the night seems to never end.

Hanukkah and many of the other seasonal holidays are about chasing the darkness away- both the real darkness and the metaphoric one that might settle in our hearts when we tend to cocoon, be less active (while eating those latkes) and start believing winter is never going to end. One of my favorite books of all time, Moominland Midwinter by Finnish author Tove Jansson, explores this theme beautifully.

Little Moomintroll wakes up unexpectedly in the middle of winter, while the rest of his family and almost all the other animals he's ever known are hibernating. The world as he knows it has changed. Moominland is suddenly a scary, dark and lonely place and the sun doesn't shine. Strange creatures have taken residence in the once-familiar places. Something grumpy lives under the sink, The Lady Of The Cold passes by endangering everyone's lives and the Groke takes away every last trace of warmth by sitting on it. At the same time, other creatures are determined to make the best of the situation. Little My has taken up sledging using Moominmamma tea tray and wearing her floral tea cozy, the Hemulen has gotten into skiing and Too-Ticky fishes under the ice and builds a huge bonfire to welcome back the sun. Everyone else just wants Moominmamma's stores of jam, preferably strawberry.

Moomintroll learn valuable lessons about the circle of life, death, overcoming fear and loneliness by living in the moment and finally realizes that at last that sometimes it's best "if things aren't so easy". Eventually most of the jam is gone, but the world awakens and Moominland comes back to life.

My scent of choice for curling up with this book, a blanket and a cat or two is Theorema by Fendi. Yes, it was discontinued, which fits in nicely with the theme of life, cycles and letting go. It's also a beautiful, warm and happy perfume that comforts and celebrates all that is good in the season and reminds us that the sun really comes back, eventually.

A full list of The Circle's participants, past and future:

Sunday - November 29th: Guest blogger Jane Sibbett opens the Circle

Monday - November 30th: Guest blogger Wendel Meldrum

Tuesday - December 1st: Roxana Villa

Wednesday - December 2nd: Guest blogger Ida Meister

Thursday - December 3rd: Memory and Desire, Heather Ettlinger

Friday - December 4th: Memory and Desire, Jason Ettlinger

Saturday - December 5th: Guest blogger Jade Shute s

Sunday - December 6th ST. NICOLAS DAY Eve and Roxana

Monday - December 7th: Indie Perfumes, Lucy Raubertas

Tuesday - December 8th: Scent Hive, Trish

Wednesday - December 9th: Olive Bites, Catherine Ivins

Thursday - December 10th: Perfume Smellin' Things, Tom

Friday - December 11th: Lillyella, Nicole

Saturday - December 12th: The Non-Blonde, Gaia

Sunday - December 13th: Portland Examiner, Donna Hathaway

Monday - December 14th: Xenotees, Noelle

Tuesday - December 15th: The Beauty You Love, Lee

Wednesday - December 16th: Confessions of a Pagan Soccer Mom, Mrs. B

Thursday - December 17th: The Artful Gypsy, Wendy Amdahl

Friday - December 18th: Perfume Shrine, Helg

Saturday - December 19th: Notes on Shoes, Cake & Perfume, Wendy

Sunday - December 20th: Grindstone Girl's Daily, Kathi Roussel

Monday - December 21st WINTER SOLSTICE: Perfume Smellin' Things, Beth

Tuesday - December 22nd: Guest blogger Davis Alexander

Wednesday - December 23rd: Guest blogger Greg Spalenka, Artist as Brand

Thursday - December 24th: Fringe, Dennice Mankarious

Friday - December 25th: Asking Leah, Leah

The Circle image by Roxana Villa
Illustration from Moominland Midwinter by Tove Jansson

Guerlain Parure (Vintage Extrait de Parfum)

2009-12-10T21:23:00.003-05:00

It's interesting to note that Parure, the classic (and discontinued) Guerlain, was a 1975 creation. It smells and feels more iconic and timeless than a mid-seventies release, a contemporary of Charlie and not of Mitsouko.

If we must label Parure, it is a rose-leather chypre. A category that is most likely (and tragically)extinct in today's perfumery-according-to-IFRA. You can no longer find such abundance of oakmoss and gorgeous, opulent rose in perfume. Younger people (when did I turn into an old fart?) would most likely find it dated and unwearable. They probably haven't encountered so much oakmoss anywhere but on their grandmothers' dressers, so I doubt it would be revived anytime soon, even if we ever manage to kick IFRA bureaucrats out of our perfume bottles. But those of us with a longing for the real thing, for perfume that smells like perfume and makes us see and feels things (other than "fresh and clean"), need to at least sample this treasure.

Parure is dark and elegant. It wears a custom made hat and never leaves the house without lipstick. It has a plum-rose heart that allows the perfume and its wearer to feel all the joie de vivre in the world witout losing the backbone, the secrets and life experience of someone who has lived, loved and survived to tell about it. And have I mentioned the oakmoss?

Guerlain has reformulated, diluted and then discontinued Parure altogether. I remember reading it was Kim Cattrall's signature scent for years, who when heard it was being axed ordered and bought every single box she managed to find. Obviously, a few bottles managed to escape her, as I own a small bottle of the extrait (not in the gorgeous bottle you can see in the vintage ads, but in one similar to the classic Jicky), bought from a fellow blogger (thank you, Dane). I treasure and cherish every drop.

Vintage Parure ads: Okadi.com
Photo of Dovima by Norman Parkinson, 1952

Beauty And Fashion At The L.A. Premier Of 'Nine'

2009-12-10T15:17:00.003-05:00

Sarah Silverman is someone I desperately try to like and for various reasons that start with Jimmy Kimmel and end with her fashion sense, always fail miserably. I get that some people really don't care and are unwilling to put in any effort. I have my thoughts on it, but I can respect their choice. What I really dislike is when certain people go out of their way to not look good. Sarah Silverman is usually a prime example. The above was her look for the premier of Nine in Los Angeles. For comparison, Here's Penelope Cruz at the same event. Gorgeous, as always:

Then again, there was also Nicole Kidman defying logic, but at this point I'm about ready to give up on her:

Photos: Socialite Life

YSL Rouge Pur Lipstick (Sweet Dark Purple 151 Violine Sucree)

2009-12-10T13:53:00.002-05:00

There are four new shades of YSL Rouge Pur lipstick, and I was instantly tempted by Sweet Dark Purple (Violine Sucree, 151). Their Holiday Makeup Look actually features #150, Sublime Red, but I decided that I have quite a few true red lipsticks at the moment, and purple is a bit more versatile for me, so #151 was the one to come home with me.

Maybe I should have remembered that the Rouge Pur line is on the dry side. It feels weightless and never bothers my lips, but it doesn't add any extra moisture and requires some prep before applying (exfoliate, moisturize, blot). It's not too dry as to require topping with a gloss, though I play with various options when I want to tone down the color.

Sweet Dark Purple is a very berry shade and generally looks better in the evening. The texture makes it an excellent option for those holiday parties where you want to sip your champagne with constantly having to reapply your lipstick. It stays put beautifully. One warning, though: do an extra shot of Listerine and mind the rest of your makeup undertones, as the color can make teeth appear yellow.

Yves Saint Lauren Rouge Pur Lipstick ($30) is available from most top department stores. #151 isn't always in stock and it seems Sephora doesn't have any of the newer colors. I bought mine from yslbeautyus.com.

All photos by me. Fuzzy creature: Buffy.

Ormonde Jayne Isfarkand

2009-12-10T00:30:00.002-05:00

Isfarkand is one of the masculine offerings from London-based perfume house Ormonde Jayne has the line's signature structure and skeleton, which are evident from the very first notes. While there's a passing citrus note that fades on me almost before it begins, I'm getting a very peppery polished wood, that Iso Super E blast that seems to take over at first. It's not as aggressive and bracing as in some other ISO-heavy scents (think Terre d'Hermes), but it's there in spades.

The part that won me over (eventually. Isfarkand wasn't a love at first sniff) was the lime-infused cedar-vetiver that slowly reveals itself under the pink peppercorns. It's crisp, not fussy and has an elegant backbone that makes it especially people-friendly without compromising on having a character. Isfarkand is a great example of a truly modern perfume/cologne that captures the spirit of the time but doesn't settle or smells cheap.

Unlike some of my other Ormonde Jayne favorites (Tolu and Ta'if), Isfarkand has almost no sillage. I guess it makes the perfume very wearable for men who don't want to be too obvious about wearing scent. I like bigger statements, but since the longevity is excellent, I'm willing to live with the fact only my nearest and dearest would ever get to smell it on me. Interesting enough, Isfarkand, while being a men's cologne, doesn't work on my husband. It disintegrates into bitter shreds of wood and citrus before evaporating into thin air. A similar thing happens to him with Terre d'Hermes, which I wear happily, so it might be an Iso Super E issue. In any case, more for me.

Isfarkand (£68.00, 50 ml) is available from ormondejayne.com and the Ormonde Jayne boutique in London. They ship worldwide and I highly recommend ordering the full sample set, as I did, since these fragrances can be an acquired taste.

Photo by Ilva Beretta.

L'Occitane Shea Butter Extra-Gentle Lotion for Hands & Body

2009-12-09T19:28:00.002-05:00

Normal people wouldn't understand how a 5% shea butter lotion can be not rich enough for one's skin. But if you're like me and share the genetic material of a big lizard you might get it.

I was setting out the bathrooms in the new house and realized that: a) I still can't find the box with most of my full-size heavy duty hand creams, and b)I needed something with cat proof packaging. Since I was already on my way to the L'Occitane store, I picked what looked like the obvious choice, Shea Butter Extra-Gentle Lotion for Hands & Body in the pump bottle.

I'm a huge fan of L'Occitane shea butter products, but usually go for the big guns- the 15% to 25% thick creams. It makes a big difference, because while the Extra Gentle Lotion gives a quick relief right after I wash my hands, it only takes fifteen minutes before they feel tight and dry again and I need another fix.

Bottom line: I'm a freak.

L'Occitane Shea Butter Extra-Gentle Lotion for Hands & Body ($20) is available online and from L'Occitane stores. I bought it at my local mall.

Photo: ucsd.org

Le Metier de Beaute Emerald Isle Kaleidoscope Eye Kit

2009-12-09T12:56:00.003-05:00

Some reviews write themselves. In the case of Le Metier de Beaute Emerald Isle Kaleidoscope Eye Kit it's even easier. Between the packaging (sophisticated without overdoing it), superb quality of their makeup and the photos that show the gorgeous colors of this eye shadow set, there's very little for me to add.

The texture is as silky as they come, and since Le Metier de Beaute colors are meant to be layered, built and blended together, it's very easy to work with them and get beautiful results. I use a primer and the colors stay in place as fresh as when I apply them from morning to night.

The colors of Emerald Eye look very bold in the pan, but as you can probably see, while the pigment is intense (the swatches are of a single swipe applied with a flat brush with no blending or smoothing), they aren't that shocking when sitting on skin. Golden Flax is quite yellow and I always blend it well with the other colors to take the edge off. In small quantities it makes the eye pop and highlights nicely. A tiny dot in the inner corner of the eye is actually more flattering than silver or platinum colors. The other shadows- Emerald Dust, Bronzed Sands and Deep Russet are beautiful together or alone and work with just about anything.

Bottom line: Wishing to see more Kaleidoscope kits in my colors.

Le Metier de Beaute Kaleidoscope Eye Kits ($95) are available at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, online and in store. I bought mine at my local Neiman in Paramus, where the LMdB counter has recently opened and the service is the best in the store.

All photos by me.

Hanae Mori (for women) by Hanae Mori EDT

2009-12-08T23:53:00.002-05:00

You can blame it on Angel. After all, just about everyone else does. But I have a feeling it's more than Thierry Mugler's creation that created a social climate in which women of any age find it acceptable and desirable to smell like cheap candy. After all, "yummy" scents have existed before 1992. Just think of Nirmala, Molinard's 1955 classic that more or less (more, if you ask me) spawned Angel. Yet, we (as in those of us born before the 1980s) grew up associating womanly, adult scents with Shalimar, Cuir de Russie, Opium, Miss Dior... We dreamed about the day we would be allowed to wear wicked chypres and dangerous orientals or the Queen itself, Fracas. How disappointing it was to come of age and discover the shelves full of marshmallow fluff.

But we're here to discuss the original Hanae Mori for women, a perfume I usually tend to avoid at all costs. I was more familiar with the EDP, so when an EDT sample showed up here I remembered some people saying this Hanae Mori version was airier and less cloying. Which meant I had to try it.

The good news is that I survived.

I don't know what I expected from notes such as strawberry, blueberry, raspberry, red currant, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, vanilla, praline, patchouli and sandalwood. It was all pink, all the time. Regular readers know I actually like vanilla and many sweet gourmand scents. It's the sticky, sickly synthetic fruit notes that do me in every time. While I've definitely smelled worse than Hanae Mori, it was still like wearing a bag of pink marshmallow. And it's time I face reality and admit I simply cannot deal with strawberry in perfume. No way, no how, not in a million years.

While the late drydown is quite faint and pleasantly vanilla-like, it isn't worth the agony of smelling like I've had an unfortunate encounter with Strawberry Shortcake (and she won).

Hanae Mori EDT ($90 for 3.4 oz) is available from most department stores and the like, while online discounters offer it at half the price. My sample most likely came as a GWP from Sephora.

Photo: cafemunchkin.com

Currently

2009-12-08T16:05:00.003-05:00

Book
All the books, and I mean each and every last one, are still packed in 50 boxes. I've almost forgiven them for the nearly sleepless night it took to pack them; a night in which The Blond and I cursed Barnes, Noble, Jeff Bezos and every author ever lived for supplying us with these books.

Song
Mess- Ben Folds

Frequently worn outfit/item
Black yoga pants. Glamorous.

Perfume
Purple Patchouli from Tom Ford Private Blend.

Makeup
Le Metier de Beaute black eyeliner pen. A holy grail if there ever was one.

Food
Soup. Homemade, Whole Foods-made or the miso soup from the local vegan Asian place. Just give me soup.

Drink
Nothing compares to the first cup of tea we made in the new house.

Guilty Pleasure
Starbucks eggnog latte.

Bane of my existence
The thought of all the boxes still waiting to be unpacked.

Joy
The new house. Every last bit, even those that still require work.

Anticipation
My brother-in-law is visiting this weekend.

Wishlist
The two paintings above, Earth Song I and II by Ana Tzarev. They are going to look lovely on one of our walls.

Thought
Insert your favorite Tiger Woods joke here.

What are your recommendations, joys and banes? Please share.

Shiseido Perfect Rouge Lipstick (RS711 Venetian Rose)

2009-12-08T12:05:00.004-05:00

I was shopping in the city, testing several new makeup items and got my eye makeup done somewhere using some really intense colors when I realized my lip color didn't match and none of the lipsticks or glosses I was carrying seemed right. I was already heading to Barneys, so I stopped at the first makeup counter that caught my eye for a quick fix. That was how I discovered Venetian Rose from Shiseido Perfect Rouge line.

I tried it on and it was perfect: a cool rose that altered my natural color just enough so it didn't clash with my eye makeup. The pigment was intense and provided full coverage, and while it's a shade or two lighter than my normal rosy lipsticks, it is not so pale as to look weird. It looks quite natural, actually, which was the whole point that day.

Venetian Rose (RS 711) has a creamy finish and a moisturizing feeling even on a cold November day. Looking at the mirror and admiring the color, I realized I had nothing quite similar in my ever-expanding stash, so it went home with me. It was a really good choice as discovered later that day, since the lipstick stayed on for several hours with no need to reapply (it was already after lunch. The color survives a quick drink but not a full meal).

Shiseido Perfect Rouge lipsticks ($25) are available from most decent department stores as well as from Sephora.

Photos by me.

Tom Ford Private Blend- Neroli Portofino

2009-12-07T23:43:00.005-05:00

The last couple of days here were on the gray, dreary, freezy, slushy side. The lawn in my back yard is covered with a thin layer of icy snow and every venture outside requires layers and a winter coat. Some would opt for those cozy, cashmere-like scents. Sometimes I do, too, but not today. Instead, I decided to indulge in sunshine and memories of faraway places.

Neroli Portofino from Tom Ford Private Blend feels nostalgic. It has many of the characteristics of a classic cologne- the sharp bite of citrus, the white blooms of an orange tree, the almost-but not quite sweetness. You've smelled it before in many versions, but probably not in this intensity, because Neroli Portofino succeeds in bringing forth a vivid image of sunny, happy places in the Italian Riviera.

I've been to Portofino years ago on my honeymoon. I don't remember orange trees, but I do remember pines almost touching the water, the clean smell of the sea, the less clean smell of frito misto (deep fried seafood) from every tratoria and the color of the Italian sky in mid-September.

There's something very much alive in Ford's Portofino. It's not a complex scent and doesn't have layers of deep meaning or anything lurking in its folds. What you smell is what you get, and it's full of joy and much stronger than just about any other neroli-citrus cologne in this genre- it lasts on my skin for at least six hours and lingers on my clothes and the cats' hair (my Lizzy who constantly snuggles with me lately has been smelling divine the last couple of days).

There's no musk or powder in the drydown (and absolutely no similarity to Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier). Instead, there's a touch of ambery sweetness which I smell more strongly on Lizzy than on myself, balances and solidifies the perfume and keeps it from evaporating into the nothingness of too many light colognes.

This is not my favorite neroli- that title belongs to the discontinued original Neroli from L'Occitane, of all places, which is sweet, intense and attention-grabbing. I also don't feel the urge to get a $180 worth of juice in a full bottle, but I have no doubt that had a bottle of Neroli Portofino appeared in my possessions, it would have been used happily. It's fun, easy to wear and free of gender restrictions. It just is, like the trees, the boats and the water.

No cats were harmed in testing and writing this review.
Photo from some Italian tourism site. I forgot to save the source.

Makeup At Tom Ford's NYC Event

2009-12-07T15:07:00.004-05:00

Julianne Moore and Madonna show what red lipstick can do last night at the NYC screening of Tom Ford's movie, A Single Man.
Gina Gershon, whom I love (saw her in Bye Bye Birdie recently, where she played Spanish Rose. The girl can sing!) chose a decidedly less glamorous look for the same event, but her expressive eyes and perfect eyebrows sort of make up for it.

And, just because, here's Nick Rhodes from Duran Duran. Nobody did eye makeup as well him in the 80s. Looks like he's toned down the look, but I still have a soft spot for Nick and the guys.

Photos: Faded Youth Blog and Socialite Life