The Non-Blonde

Oscars 2012 - Live Blogging The Academy Awards Red Carpet

2012-02-26T18:05:00.012-05:00

The first minutes of red carpet arrivals can be awkward. Sometimes even Ryan Seacrest has to consult his notes on the celeb status of some people. Thankfully, tonight opened with some serious glam from Penelope Ann Miller in Badgely Mischka (all I ever envied about blondes) and Milla Jovovich in Elie Saab (one for the non-blondes). Maybe not the most original looks, but oh so stunning:

Berenice Bejo. I don't mind the dress, but the red hair is borderline atrocious. It's nearly the same shade as her face and looks home-dyed. Badly:

Jessica Chastain's dress is probably going to have lovers and haters. Yes, it's a bit costumy, maybe a little over the top, but you know what? It's the Oscars. And at least it's not another sequined blush thingy.

Now, someone needs to say this: George Clooney can and should do much better than Stacy Kiebler. And better than her Las Vegas dress, and better than the rosette on her hip. There, I said it. Call me, George.

Viola Davies in emerald green and her own hair is lovely. I wish we'll see more natural hair on red carpets.

Michelle Williams gets extra points for wearing red and being lovely.

Rooney Mara. I don't know what I think of her (other than too much sternum), I just want to stare. You can join me.

Am I the only one who thinks Busy Phillips' earrings were tacky and looked like cheap 80s baubles?

Another lovely one in red: Emma Stone. I loved the dress, the husband didn't. In any case, Emma wins. Always.

Now, I can't believe I'm saying this, but I liked (most of) J Lo's dress and loved her makeup. Jennifer's makeup was never as subtle. It works.

Doesn't work: Sandra Bullock's dress. Is the fit wrong? Was it a last minute choice? Sandra doesn't look very happy.

More to love: Natalie Portman in a vintage 1954 haute couture Christian Dior gown, Gwynwth Paltrow in a white cape, and Penelope Cruz doing the princess thing successfully.

All photos: Zimbio

Hermès- Équipage

2012-02-23T22:50:00.001-05:00

The 1970s are not necessarily heralded for tasteful fashion and imagery. There are a few exceptions, though, especially in fragrance. They remind us that not all men wore polyester suits with lapels up to here and chest hair down to there. On Savile Row, Tommy Nutter made some the most exquisite suits, reinventing the classic style for his celeb clients of the new generation. On rue du Faubourg in Paris there was and is Hermes.

Equipage, a masculine Hermès fragrance was composed by Guy Robert and Jean-Louis Sieuzac in 1970. I was born that same year, so my perfume sniffing years were still way ahead, so I can't tell how Équipage was perceived then. Today, when smelling both my "vintage" (circa late 80s) bottle and the current version at the Hermes boutique, Équipage give the impression of an old world elegance and refinement. While it's generally a green leather masculine, I'm the one wearing Équipage in our house, as the husband isn't very taken with mossy perfumes on his own skin (I suspect he finds them a bit dated).

Lovers of herbal perfumes will enjoy the green blast in the opening of Équipage. I get clary sage more than anything else, which I love-- it's has complex presence that includes minty facets as well as an almost medicinal bitterness. I love this style of opening notes much better than the generic citrus you find in most masculine scents nowadays. There's life beyond bergamot, after all.

The lion part of Hermès Équipage happens in a wood-paneled, leather-upholstered room where just a hint of pine smoke or incense perfumes the air. There's also a carefully chosen antique vase on the vintage table that holds a large bouquet of colorful flowers that liven up the room. There are enough fresh carnations there to lend a clove note (which is why I never bought a bottle for my dad, dentist's son, who loathes clove). Sometimes I could swear I smell galbanum, but that is most likely just the effect of the other bitter green notes.

As Équipage dries down on my skin, most of the greenery disappears and what's left is a very chypre-like oakmoss-patchouli-vetiver base. It's an almost Bandit-light thing, perhaps a little closer to the original Armani (1981). The base is gender-neutral in my opinion, as long as one likes these kind of thing and enjoys bitter leathers. The sillage is pretty minimal, at least from my old bottle, and the staying power of this EDT is about 6 hours on skin and longer as elegant remnants on scarves and sweaters.

I'm very happy that Hermès keeps Équipage around, even if they don't advertise or promote it in any way. It deserves more attention and recognition, especially from a certain potential consumer who appreciates finer things, has an eye for vintage accessories and really wants to smell a bit different among the Creed and Tom Ford wearers.

Notes (via Bois de Jasmin): marjoram, clary sage, tarragon, carnation, lily of the valley, cinnamon, pine needles, hyssop, liatris, patchouli, vetiver, oakmoss, amber, coumarin, and tonka bean.

See more reviews of Equipage on Now Smell This and Bois de Jasmin.

Hermès Équipage is available from Hermes boutiques and top department stores as well as online. Older bottles are relatively easy to find.

Photo of Tommy Nutter circa 1970 from thebespokenfor.net.

Lorac Translucent Touch Up Powder

2012-02-23T13:18:00.000-05:00

My usual color in Lorac Translucent Touch Up Powder is actually TL 2, the light-medium option. However, the one you see here is TL 2.5, and I got it because it provides a little extra support and coverage when using a tinted moisturizer (see yesterday's post).

Lorac's translucent powder is very fine and light. It's not drying at all, so I can't comment on how it will perform if you have oily skin. Mine is dry, but I like a polished, finished-to-perfection makeup look, and Lorac's powder is one of few products that give this result without messing up the delicate balance. The little velveteen puff that comes in the compact is utterly useless. If you like puffs, get a good one, but I prefer to use brushes, either a dense one that pushes powder onto the skin or a fluffy one that gives the lightest possible dusting for quick touch-ups.

Bottom Line: a makeup bag staple

Lorac Translucent Touch Up Powder ($32) is available at Sephora and Ulta, in store and online.

Top photo from myvintagevogue.com

Shu Uemura Hard Formula Brow Pencil Seal Brown 02

2012-02-23T12:40:00.000-05:00

Shu Uemura Hard Formula Brow Pencil is a unique product in the brow-savers category. "Hard Formula" doesn't even begin to describe this texture, which causes quite a bit of skepticism at first use until you get the hang of it. Shu Uemura's brow pencil is, indeed, hard. Very hard. It doesn't yield, so you need to use it in short and precise strokes, otherwise it will pull the skin. The hard formula ensures the pigment will never move and migrate. It also prevents patchy application-- you will not be able to draw a long thin line, exactly because you're not supposed to do it.

Instead, the pencil that only releases pigment on contact with the natural oils of the brows, allows to fill in patchy brows, making them more even and better defined. It just takes a little longer to notice that the pencil actually draws something-- it's far less obvious than when working with a regular pencil or a powder.

Now, personally, I still prefer the control I have when using a brow powder and a good brush. Mostly because that way I can mix a few colors together until I get the right shade. Also, since my brows are pretty full, the powders hold on perfectly and I never have issues with smearing and fading. But those of you who need extra help are likely to find the Shu Uemura Hard Formula pencil to be a brow saver.

Swatching this Shu Uemura pencil was not easy. But I wanted to give you a good idea about the color of Seal Brown 02. It's a cool dusty dark brown that matches dark non-black eye brows. It has no red and hardly any warmth, which is important to me. The finished look I get is wonderfully natural. I can't tell I did much with the brows, but the sparse areas are just a little fuller.

Bottom Line: for just about everyone.

Shu Uemura Hard Formula Brow Pencil ($23) is available from shuuemura-usa.com or at the counters if you're lucky enough to have them in your countries.

Photo of Joan Crawford: Stirred Straight Up With A Twist.

Aftelier Chocolate And Saffron Body Oil & Hair Elixir

2012-02-22T23:51:00.001-05:00

Aftelier Chocolate and Saffron Body Oil & Hair Elixir should probably come with a warning label for people on a strict diet, because it's bound to cause serious cravings (I'm chomping on some milk chocolate as we speak). The scent of this oil is so scrumptious it's almost indecent. It's a very lightly spiced chocolate with a hint of what I can only describe as yellow flowers. Chocolate and warm sun on your skin-- can it get any better?

The Chocolate And Saffron body oil/hair elixir is part of perfumer Mandy Aftel's expanded Aftelier line. I didn't know what exactly to expect, but the instantly-absorbing texture caught me by surprise-- made of jojoba oil and fractionated coconut oil-- leaves no grease behind. It's incredibly softening and gentle on the skin. Also, once I got brave enough to try the oil/elixir on my hair the effect was similar: smooth, soft, and wonderfully smelling without weighing down (I have very thick long hair).

The effect of the elixir on my gator skin lasts for 4-6 hours (much longer on my hair), the fragrance remains close to the skin and doesn't invade other's space. It's ideal either under chocolaty perfumes (Aftelier Cacao) or by itself before bed, especially if you prefer soft and non-distracting scents. As long as you can deal with the forming addiction. Just make sure you shake the bottle well before use, as the heavier parts tend to sink to the bottom.

Aftelier Chocolate And Saffron Body Oil & Hair Elixir ($40, 3.5 oz) is available from aftelier.com, where you can also purchase samples of this one and the other four scents. The products was sent to me free of charge by the perfumer.

Photo: levanacooks.com

Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20 (and tips for dealing with winter skin)

2012-02-22T14:18:00.000-05:00

'Tis the season. For wan, pale flaky skin, that is. I do my best and employ all the big skincare guns, but some days are just not pretty, especially while having even the mildest cold. I know that for many, the first instinct (well, second, after hiding under the blankets until spring brings better skin days) is to cover it all up, but you know this never ever works.

My three part solution is simple: First, moisturize. It's a no-brainer, but don't experiment. Use something tried and true that you know will work for your skin. I've been using Embryolisse Lait Creme Concentre ($16 at BeautyHabit) and it makes me feel better instantly.

Then, use a hydrating primer. I'm a huge fan of primers and never ever put on my makeup without one, no matter what. Yes, they work. Yes, they make a difference. It's a matter of find the right one(s) for both your skin and your base makeup. A good primer will enhance the performance of whatever you apply on top, including a tinted moisturizer. I'm on my second tube of Smashbox Photo Finish Hydrating Primer, which works wonderfully with every tinted moisturizer I have: Laura Mercier SPF 20, Smashbox's ones and LMdB Peau Vierge. They all do their thing better with some support.

The last step is a good tinted moisturizer. Peau Vierge is my go-to product, but I've had several days lately that my skin was paler and greener than usual. None of my foundations and tinted moisturizers looked right. Now, I'm not Snow White. I'm olive with a clear Mediterranean look, but I'm also pale, so all those light-medium shades with lots of yellow pigment rarely match me even on a good day. Luckily, a quick rummaging in my foundation drawer brought forth this Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20 in Nude, the second to lightest shade.

The texture of Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20 is wonderfully light and truly moisturizing. It adheres to the skin with magical ease, and smooths things just enough to give a healthier and more even look. It makes me appear... dare I say it...? Human. And alive. The swatch you see is a) too heavy, and b) not blended. Still, you can see how close it is to my natural color and that the texture is very light. The primer makes this base color last for as long as I need it and helps create the smooth appearance. Laura Mercier's tinted moisturizer is among the finest I've come across. Having an SPF 20 doesn't hurt, either.

Bottom Line: I wish they offered more shades, for days I look a little more alive.

Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20 ($42) is available from the counters, Sephora and lauramercier.com. The one you see here was a GWP.

Laura Mercier Topaz Luster Eye Colour

2012-02-22T13:02:00.000-05:00

I love the texture of Laura Mercier Luster Eye Colour shadows-- it's smooth and iridescent while still maintaining a low-key sophistication that makes them an easy choice on a daily basis. Topaz, a hard to describe taupe with a pink cast, is something I often use to bind and blend other colors together. It's a color that lends itself to many looks, from the typical understated Laura Mercier ones to the less neutral. It always works.

The high level of shimmer creates some mess in and around the compact, but on a well-primed lid I don't get any debris. It stays put, remains pretty and holds its own against other high quality eye shadows.

Bottom Line: a basic.

Laura Mercier Topaz Luster Eye Colour ($22) is available at the counters and from lauramercier.com.

Salvatore Ferragamo- Attimo Pour Homme

2012-02-21T22:26:00.000-05:00

The first few minutes of wearing Salvatore Ferragamo Attimo Pour Homme are so magnificently ridiculous that I almost laughed. It has that citrusy sharp accord that has become a trademark of department store's masculine fragrances, and then turns into an equally familiar and annoying typical "cologne" with a designer name slapped on it. It's just a logo on a modern-looking bottle filled with juice that smells like hundreds of similar others and is as nonthreatening as they come.

It gets better, though not to the level of a nice pair of Salvatore Ferragamo shoes. We're not that lucky.

Behind the synthetic citrus, synthetic pepper and synthetic herbs there is a pretty nice spicy heart. Cardamom and saffron with an incense vibe are always welcome in my book, and not just on a man's skin. If Salvatore Ferragamo's Attimo was truly composed to showcase this accord (preferably with better ingredients) I would have added it to my wardrobe in an instant. It's such a waste that instead of taking this stylish and beautiful idea and making Attimo a perfume worthy of our attention, the powers-that-be wanted to first drown it in generic citrus and then allowed it to fade into a watery nothing. They call it vetiver and white musk, but it's just that synthetic woody musky whatever that plagues designer perfumes nowadays (the husband doesn't smell a thing once the sharpness fades).

Notes: marjoram, cardamom, mandarin, saffron, pimento, patchouli, vetiver, labdanum and white musk.

Salvatore Ferragamo- Attimo Pour Homme ($79, 3.4 oz EDT) is available at Ferragamo boutiques and most department stores, soon it will probably make an appearance at the discounters, where it belongs.

Attimo Pour Homme ad starring actor Alessandro Gassman from a pres release.

Alexa Chung (And Stella McCartney) In Stella McCartney

2012-02-21T16:41:00.000-05:00

The mystery of Alexa Chung's status as a style icon continues. Here she is a shapeless and unstyled Stella McCartney gown during the designer's London Fashion Week show. I don't think she could have looked more bland if she tried, which is unfortunate for such a beautiful woman. I'm not even talking about her aversion to combs.

Speaking of unfortunate, the worst in that event was Stella McCartney's own inexplicable dress. Too many of McCartney's designs give the impression of good intentions gone terribly awry (that's how I'd classify the dress ALexa Chung was wearing), but Stella's ass dress doesn't even have that going for it.

Photos via Zimbio.

Chantecaille Brilliant Gloss- Modern

2012-02-21T13:34:00.000-05:00

Obviously, the story of Chantecaille Brilliant Gloss in Modern is more about the texture than the color. Modern is this light rosy beige that has little to add to my natural lip color, but just like other Chantecaille lip products (I have them in most forms), the Brilliant Gloss has the feel of a skincare product that enhances and pampers the lips. It's a gloss, so lasting is typical for a liquid goo, but it doesn't fade just from talking and the great hydrating sensation is there even after the color is gone.

I've been using Chantecaille's Modern to mix in other colors or to top darker lipsticks. It tones down shades that are too intense for daytime and adds its high shine finish. All in all, this is a great products and I'm eyeing several more interesting colors in Chantecaille's Brilliant Gloss range.

Chantecaille Brilliant Gloss ($32) can be found at top department stores, Space NK and from chantecaille.com. The one shown here was a gift with purchase item.

By Kilian- Amber Oud (Arabian Nights)

2012-02-21T00:43:00.000-05:00

An amber and oud composition sounds like playing it safe-- putting together two popular, not to say irresistible, notes. We could have called it a cheap trick, but we're dealing with a By Kilian fragrance, so if there's one certain thing, cheap it is not. Annoyingly, By Kilian's Amber Oud from the Arabian Night series once again forces me to do away with the snark, take a big sniff and wonder if one can get a mortgage on a cat. It's so absolutely delicious.

Other perfume in this By Kilian range are more hardcore oud. I think I like Pure Oud the most, as difficult as it can be at times because it takes over the senses. Amber Oud is much cuddlier. The oud is cleaned and scrubbed quite a bit, leaving only a hint of the medicinal quality of its scent, and even that is well-concealed under a pile of ambery goodness.

As perfumer Calice Becker composed Amber Oud for By Kilian, she put together the best of all worlds. There's soft and smoky incense that goes beautifully together with the dark oud that holds the fragrance together. I think it's even more balanced and refined than Incense Oud, a lovely perfume and the gentlest one in By Kilian's Arabian Nights series. Amber Oud is magical because of this balance and because the amber itself is fantastic. It straddles the line between the intoxicating and edible-- if you read Victoria's review of Amber Oud on Bois de Jasmin you'll see her analysis of the gourmand aspect on all its complex layers. She's spot on in her comparisons to other dazzling and rich perfumes that seduce with their vanilla, smoke and other oriental treasures. Amber Oud is all that, with that added mystery of, well, oud. It looks and smells like a million dollar, or better-- Aladdin's Cave of olfactory wonders. Sorry for the well-beaten cliche. The stuff really goes to my head.

Notes: amber, oud, bay leaf, cedarwood, vanilla.

By Kilian Amber Oud ($395, 50ml EDP or $235 for the 4 x .25oz travel set) is available at MiN NY, Luckyscent, Aedes, Bergdorf Goodman and Saks 5th Avenue. The sample was sent to me free of charge through the company's Facebook page (anyone can register).

Artwork: Magic Carper Ride by Viktor Vasnetsov.

Janice Dickinson Attends London Fashion Week

2012-02-20T13:11:00.000-05:00

I came across some photos of Janice Dickinson arriving at the Vivienne Westwood Red Label show for London Fashion Week. All I could think of was that Vivienne Westwood shouldn't make anyone look this miserable. So I rummaged through some older magazine covers for a reminder how stunning Janice Dickinson used to be. It's not about age, of course. It's just really awful plastic surgery (and probably some unfortunate choices):

And speaking of not having fun at London Fashion Week, judging by the model's face at the Michael van der Ham show, the chunky gold particles over the eye lid and in the crease are probably as uncomfortable as they look:

Photos of Janice Dickinson and models during London Fashion week via Zimbio.
Magazine covers floating around the net and belonging to the publishers.

Shu Uemura ME 856 Medium Brown Eye Shadow

2012-02-20T12:36:00.000-05:00

The photos speak for themselves and for Shu Uemura ME 856 Medium Brown eye shadow. It's taupe, the pigment level is quite intense, it comes in the familiar Shu Uemura metallic finish, and the texture is lovely to work with. I've been using it in combination with NARS Soft Shadow pencils-- this season's Dark Rite and the previously released Aigle Noir. I start with the pencil, contouring the lash line and drawing the crease, then blending Shu ME 856 (using a MAC 217) all over the lid and just above the crease. The textures work well together, ME 856 tones down the other color and the end result looks a lot more complex and sophisticated than one would expect.

The texture of Shu Uemura eye shadows, even after last year's change/reformulation, is phenomenal. It takes very little work to apply, stays put and never loses its luster, even after long hours (I always use a primer). The metallic finish can be quite bold, which is why I tend to use it in the above low-key way and not pile it on. However, as the comparison below shows, the legendary Le Metier de Beaute Cortinthian, which is extremely similar to Shu's ME 856, is even more metallic, and that rarely stops any of us from using (and worshiping) this color.

Shu Uemura ME 856 Medium Brown Eye Shadow ($15) comes in the refill packaging that fits into Shu's new Prima palettes. Available online (if you're in the US) and at top department stores if you live anywhere else.

Guerlain Les Voyages Olfactifs Collection- London

2012-02-19T23:54:00.090-05:00

The thing about Guerlain perfumes is that it's hard to stay mad at them. Even when I try. Even when they put rhubarb in a perfume (and package it in a ridiculously large bottle and charge a hefty price for it). Take London, the fourth perfumes in Guerlain Les Voyages Olfactifs Collection. Even rhubarb and tea notes don't make me remember London when I smell this cheery youthful perfume. I dare say that even if Guerlain had slapped a picture of The Queen on the bottle it wouldn't have made close my eyes and think of England.

I didn't expect to particularly enjoy Les Voyages Olfactifs - London and initial sniffs at Bergdorf and in Paris didn't make me sing Rule, Brittania! when smelling the bottle or spraying my wrist. I gave London neither much skin space nor time and attention until I had a generous amount of it at my disposal, and I admit to doing that somewhat begrudgingly. Rhubarb? In an exclusive Guerlain perfume? Yeah, right.

The thing is that for a very modern fruity-woody perfume that aims at the fresh and hip crowd that will not be caught dead in vintage Parure or Mitsouko, this is a really nice option. It's not too sweet, doesn't smell like a cheap body spray, doesn't leave a chemical after-taste and all in all, Les Voyages Olfactifs - London is an easy to wear perfume that feels balanced, pleasant and very current. It opens up with a lightly caramelized fruity accord that is carefully toned down with citrus. The rhubarb crumble or cobbler is delicious and homemade, nothing industrial about it. My skin tends to amplify the warmer notes and sweeten the tea, so it begins to smell almost like a Guerlain perfume as time goes by. The sheerness of the tea causes me to spray heavily (maybe that's why they make you buy a jug of the Les Voyages Olfactifs Collection perfumes: I felt a similar need to spray with abandon with the other ones I sampled. In any case, the violet is there but less pronounced than we normally expect from Guerlain, the wood-vetiver dry-down is perhaps the weakest link of the composition as it smells barely of wood or of vetiver-- it's both are watered down and washed out as to not offend the sensibilities of youth. I would have liked more punch and drama, and a bit of a London stormy weather.

Still , I can't argue with wearability and the understated fashion sense involved in making this perfume. It's not me and not for me, yet if I were to introduce the young and impressionable to Guerlain I'd choose this series and not any of the Aqua Allegoria thingies.

Notes: black tea, rhubarb, bergamot, grapefruit, rose, vetiver, violet, cardamom, cedar.

Guerlain Les Voyages Olfactifs Collection- London ($225, 8.3 oz EDP) is available at Bergdorf Goodman and select Guerlain locations around the world. A press sample was sent to me free of charge from the company.

Art: Iris Egbers for The Sunday Times.

L'Artisan Parfumeur- Fleur de Carrot

2012-02-17T00:00:00.001-05:00

Fleur de Carrot from L'Artisan Parfumeur came out in 2000 in a special and huge splash bottle decorated with a paper crown of carrot tendrils. To be honest, it looks a little ridiculous next to the refined regular L'Artisan bottles (I also have a similar limited edition bottle of Ananas Fizz with a pineapple crown. It probably looked like a good idea at the time). In any case, this Olivia Giacobbeti composition was discontinued some time between 2005 and 2006, leaving no sillage in its wake.

And that's a major issue with L'Artisan's Fleur de Carrot. And not just the sillage-- Fleur de Carrot dearly lacks presence. It took me months to even get a general feel of this fragrance because it's usually pretty much gone by the time I finish getting dressed. I finally figured out a way to trap enough of the scent around me. It requires not just practically bathing in Fleur de Carrot but also spraying my clothes and trying to get as much as possible between my skin and a cashmere wrap or a sweater. And then pulling a blanket over my head and breathing in. I wish I were kidding.

Fans of certain iris perfumes are familiar with a damp earthy carrot facet of these fragrances. The chillier the iris, the carroty it smells in the opening. Thus, one might expect some of the iris spirit to show up in Fleur de Carrot . However looking at the listed notes forces you to reconsider. This L'Artisan perfume was constructed to smell of baby carrot, cucumber, tarragon, lettuce, apricot, and ginger. Basically, throw it in a bowl and add some balsamic vinegar.

The idea of Fleur de Carrot is freshness. It's a whiff of cool air through the kitchen garden in summer, here for just a second and then it's gone. It smells very pale green like a homemade herbal iced tea with a hint of fruit but no actual pulp or juice, where someone has already strained all the herbs out of the pitcher, so the tea is quite weak. The carrot is also too abstract-- it lacks the rooty earthiness and there's nothing here to chomp. The composition smells like it has absolutely no base to anchor it and create a strong impression. It's fun while it lasts and if I apply an enormous and embarrassing amount I finally get a faint remnant of crystallized ginger to remain on my skin. But the frustration of having this pretty little nothing fade away so quickly makes for a very unsatisfying experience in the end of the ~~day~~ five minutes of green salad.

Watercolor by Maree Clarkson.

Michelle Williams In Dior

2012-02-16T15:09:00.000-05:00

Apparently all it took to make Michelle Williams really smile on the red carpet is a pretty princess dress. Michelle chose this Christian Dior Spring 2011 Couture gown for the premiere of "My Week With Marilyn" in Paris. It looks like this dress makes her happy, and I feel the same seeing her like this. Michelle Williams usually goes for a much more austere style; we've rarely seen her in anything lavish in the last couple of years. I also love the bold statement of the lips and nails: she really went all out there in the glamour department. I hope this means not just happier times for Michelle but also a softer and longer hairstyle in her future.

All photos of Michelle Williams in Paris by PacificCoastNews.com via Zimbio.

Kevyn Aucoin The Sculpting Powder - Medium

2012-02-16T12:23:00.001-05:00

Sculpting and contouring can be a scary concept with even scarier results. As someone who started using makeup in the 1980s, I remember those weird stripes of a dark blush placed where no blush should ever go in an attempt to make one's face look thinner and enhance the cheekbones:

I spent years trying to imitate the effect and make my cheekbones suddenly appear out of nowhere. Thankfully, I had the good sense to realize it doesn't work and never to leave the house sporting a brown zebra face. It was only years later when I discovered Kevyn Aucoin's work and books that I fully understood the idea and principles behind effective face contouring and learn what it can and cannot do for me.

The drawings in Kevyn Aucoin's book are one thing, but watching the magic happen is a lot more effective. Wayne Goss, aka Gossmakeupartist on YouTube has some of the best tutorials on the subject (the British accent makes everything even better):
http://youtu.be/Ow1rdFOlxnk
http://youtu.be/HHn3iKgB4Qo
http://youtu.be/cE2_hKQvrxc

I can't tell you how many times I watched these until I learned how to work with what I have. While I usually avoid messing around with my non existent cheekbones, I often contour my nose and chin using Kevyn Aucoin The Sculpting Powder in medium. The reason this product works (unlike the myriad of blushes and bronzers many of us have tried) is a combination of color and texture. The color of Kevyn Aucoin's Sculpting Powder in Medium looks quite dark in the pan and may seem muddy in the swatch (I applied it with the useless sponge that came in the compact, so you can see the color as clearly as possible). However, when actually contouring the face you need to use the lightest possible touch (and a good directional brush, not a sponge, please) to get the gossamer shadow-like effect. When you do that, you realize that the color of this sculpting powder gets a taupe/almost gray cast that-surprise!- looks like your skin in the shade.

The texture of Kevyn Aucoin's powder is whisper light and can be manipulated and blended to perfection. It's completely matte- there's no trace of shimmer or any of the light-reflecting elements that make contouring with a blush or a bronzer so horrible-- it's simple, really: a blush or a bronzer are meant to bring light and color to the areas you apply them. It's the exact opposite of what you're trying to achieve when shading for contouring purpose.

Bottom Line: this is the one.

Kevyn Aucoin The Sculpting Powder ($42) is available from Nordstrom, Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman and dermstore.com.

Things I Learned In (almost) Six Years Of Perfume Blogging

2012-02-15T23:15:00.001-05:00

Some would say I don't fully qualify as a perfume blogger since The Non-Blonde is technically a beauty blog. But considering I write an average of four perfume reviews a week by myself, I'm sure you can humor me. My focus in this list is perfume smelling, not the process of blogging about it. I don't know if any of you are interested in lessons learned through writing about perfume, but if so let me know.

While I've been sticking my nose into bottles and spraying my wrists many years (decades, actually) before I started blogging about it, the intensity and my perspective have changed significantly since I've begun talking about this in public. Things are a lot less casual since my days of strolling the counters looking for something shiny and new. My nose is always on a mission now and never rests. But the payoff is that I've learned a thing or three in the process:

1) No Note is left behind. I used to have a very clear idea of things I like and dislike. Something like "peach bad, amber good". I no longer get scared of note lists, though. I still like what I like, but some of the most evil notes may appear in sublime compositions. Le Parfum de Thérèse has melon, QED.

2) There are far less perfumes I truly dislike. It may sound counter-intuitive, considering the amount of dreck I get to inhale on an average week. However, as long as the perfume is not horribly and cheaply made, I can usually find a redeeming quality or at least a reason for its existence. It's perfume, after all, which instantly makes it better than a root canal.

3) Snobbishness is not what it used to be (and neither is luxury). Thirty years ago things were easy. One would go to their local department store to buy an expensive(ish) perfume, knowing they got a luxury product. In the same vein, ordering a perfume from the catalog carried by the lady in pink was... um... less so. Now, go find a bottle of an Avon perfume from the 1970s. Then let someone at Macy's spray you with Calvin Klein Forbidden Euphoria. Which one is the classy and elegant perfume?

4) Accidents will happen. It's easy to get into that place where I think I smelled so much and know e-v-e-r-y-t-h-i-n-g about the tastes and skin of my nearest and dearest. Then I send someone, let's say my mom, a bottle of Annick Goutal Gardenia Passion. After all, she's a white flower queen who loves tuberose and jasmine. She hated it. Oops.

5) Yes, it's 2012, and yes, one would expect someone who works at selling perfume not to be hung up on the masculine/feminine thing. But there will still be an occasional SA who will snatch the bottle of Boucheron Pour Homme from my hand just as I'm about to spray my wrist and scold me: "it's for MEN, you know". The only thing to do is grab the bottle back, smile sweetly and say: "It never stopped me before". Then spritz with abandon.

And here's a bonus list written by the husband: five things he learned as the long-suffering spouse of a perfume blogger:

Skin Chemistry is for real. It is amazing how totally different some perfumes smell on us. Like ALL of the Le Labo line.
I should make an effort to feel a scent emotionally before analyzing it rationally. As a left brain guy, my initial instincts are always to classify, break into notes, evaluate the composition etc. I've learned to try and ignore all that in the first few sniffs and let it effect me emotionally first.
To recognize and appreciate quality and originality even in scents that do not work for me personally. This is hard as I usually just conclude "this is not me" and move on, but I've learned, like in any other art forms, to value and enjoy even scents I can not wear.
To recognize and appreciate the artist behind the creation. From independent perfumers to world famous noses, they each have a style and a signature.
And last thought, isn't the EU in financial dire straights? May I suggest abolishing IFRA to pay for some Greek debt?

Photograph by Eric Maillet via Trendland.

Want: Victoria Beckham Fall 2012

2012-02-15T13:30:00.000-05:00

My approach to Fashion Week and designer collections has always been practical: what ready-to-wear items work for my not particularly glam lifestyle, give the most versatility in terms of day-to-night and will not look dated two years from now so that I can stretch the investment as far as humanly possible.

The answer is usually Diane von Furstenberg, and that hasn't changed this year. But browsing footage from various shows, I know what's going to make Fall 2012 even better: the above Victoria Beckham dress in both colors. The smart design and proportions won my heart. The flattering v-neck could not be more perfect as far as I'm concerned. Bravo, Victoria!

Photos: style.com

Laura Mercier Rose Flush Lip Plumper Gloss

2012-02-15T12:17:00.000-05:00

Laura Mercier Rose Flush Lip Plumper Gloss is... cute, I guess. As far as lip plumpers go, it's hydrating, comfortable and not irritating-- it plumps by adding moisture to the lips, not by making them sting, even though somewhere down the content list (see below) you can find Limonene and Linalool, two ingredients that are regulated by IFRA as potential allergens.

In any case, Laura Mercier Lip Plumper Gloss in Rose Flush gives an extra boost to the lips, smooths them a little and adds a natural rosy color that works anywhere. There's nothing very interesting about it, and as far as color complexity and lasting ability, Laura Mercier's Lip Glace line is far better (though it lacks true red options). Still, since Rose Flush was a GWP item I used it to the very last drop, alone or mixed with other products.

Ingredients:

Isononyl Isononanoate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polybutene, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Silica Silylate, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Glycine Soja Seed Extract (Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil), Simmondsia Chiensis Oil (Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil), Ricinus Communis Oil (Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil), Aroma (Flavor), Tocopheryl Acetate, Ceramid 3, Sodium Saccharin, Menthoxypropanediol, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Atelocollagen, Butylene Glycol, Citral , Limonene, Linalool, Benyzl Benzoate, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparabven, Butylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Ethylparaben. (+/-): CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77019 (Mica), CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), CI 19140 (Yellow 5 Lake), CI 19140 (Red 7 Lake), CI 17200 (Red 33 Lake).

Bottom Line: nice to have.

Laura Mercier Lip Plumper Gloss ($30) is available at the counters and from lauramercier.com.

DSH- Jitterbug

2012-02-14T22:16:00.000-05:00

According to the Wikipedia article discussing jitterbug,

" By November of 1945 after the departure of the American troops following D-Day, English couples were being warned not to continue doing energetic "rude American dancing." Time Magazine reported that American troops stationed in France in 1945 jitterbugged, and by 1946, jitterbug had become a craze in England. It was already a competition dance in Australia."

I can't dance to save my life, but I watched enough old movies to be somewhat familiar with the exuberant dance that was fueled by the the end of WWII and the exhilaration that came with it. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes was inspired by the era with its swing dancing and Dior's New Look when she created Jitterbug, "a vintage-style spicy-amber-oriental perfume".

DSH had me at vintage. And also at amber. And spicy-oriental.

Jitterbug is all that and more. The perfume smells as the list of notes (see below) reads: thick and full. There's something about the way it opens that makes me think of mulled wine, a homemade confiture and exotic perfume oils of secret blends. The vintage vibe is also apparent-- there's nothing modern about the way Jitterbug smells. I'm pretty sure that someone like my sister, who loves perfume but is attracted modern and decidedly airy compositions, will not enjoy this kind of fragrance.

One of the most striking aspects of DSH's Jitterbug is how carnal and dirty it is. I don't smell any civet or other animalics, but it's the flowers and spices that create the strong indolic impression. I'm never entirely sure it's a good idea to appear in public wearing this fragrance. It might give some people a very wrong idea. But I do it anyway, because dirty or not, Jitterbug is warm and very human. It's not exactly sweaty and I don't think there's any cumin there (the husband never complained, so that's a fairly good indication), but it does make me think of a crowded ballroom where the various perfumes of the dancers get mixed together with a healthy dose of sexual innuendos.

Top notes: Bergamot, Blackberry, Lemon, Pimento Berry
Middle notes: Bulgarian Rose Absolute, Clove Bud, Grandiflorum Jasmine, Siam Benzoin
Base notes: Amber, East Indian Patchouli, Frankincense (Olibanum), Labdanum, Musk

Jitterbug by DSH Perfumes ($70, 1 oz EDP, samples and other sizes also available) can be purchased from dshperfumes.com.

Photo: retronaut.com

NARS Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base

2012-02-14T13:37:00.000-05:00

NARS Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base is my new way of making magic. It's not the first or only eye primer that gets a standing ovation from me (see Paula Dorf and Kanebo Sensai), but it definitely joins them in my personal Hall Of Fame.

The texture of NARS Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base is very thin- it's a white liquid that dries down to an invisible silky film over the lid. It comes in a narrow tube with a sponge applicator, perhaps not my favorite dispenser in the universe (pans and tiny pots are less wasteful), but it's clean and effective. You do need to stir the applicator a little in the tube, to make sure you get an even coat on the sponge head, but once you do it's easy to get just the right amount. The primer performs as promised, making eye shadows go on smoother, makes the most of the pigments they contain and holds them in place. I'd say that it might not be quite as effective as the SuperGlue-like Paula Dorf eye primer, but for those who find the latter too tacky or heavy, NARS is most likely to provide an excellent alternative.

Bottom Line: an essential.

NARS Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base ($24) is available at select department stores, Sephora and narscosmetics.com.

Artwork: Marion Bolognes & Antoine Neufmars for Rouge Magazine, Japan.

Hourglass Prism Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo

2012-02-14T12:32:00.000-05:00

This is as pretty as it gets. Prism Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo is probably the first item you notice on the Hourglass display counter. The compact holds to gorgeous eye shadows that make for a very bold combination: a very high shimmer storm blue and a rich black infused with micro glitter that looks like a fantasy night sky. Prism is a "wow" product.

I can't remember how many times I looked at this Hourglass duo, played with the tester and sighed. So pretty, but when will I ever use it? Eventually, my love of shiny objects got the better of me and I took it home, trying not too feel too guilty about the unpractical purchase. I shouldn't have fretted. While Prism is obviously an evening eye shadow duo, a clubbing habit is not required. Even a boring 41 year old can wear it without looking ridiculous.

Before I get to my favorite way to wear Prism, I should mention that the texture (like all Hourglass eye shadow duos that I've tried) is phenomenal. It's smooth to the touch, provides full coverage and intense pigment while being easy to apply and blend. These eye shadows cooperated with every brush I've tried so far and never fail to look like a million dollar.

Now, as I said, Prism is not a "meet the parents" or a work interview combination (neither are the two colors even when applied separately). These colors are not for the meek, but if you're looking for a little glamour and can pull of certain blue shades it's worth trying. The blue is all silk. Patting it gently on the middle of the lid brings out brown eyes and flatters darker skin tones. You will want to use it with a light hand and a soft brush and blend the color into your base. This is not the kind of color I like in the crease (too much shimmer and a little too bright), so I've been playing with many options. My favorite as the backdrop? The matte dove gray shade (Empire) from Le Metier de Beaute's Splendid Frost Kaleidoscope (Holiday 2010). I use it in the crease and to help blend the shimmery blue side of Prism. Then I take a damp smoky eye brush (or a small pencil brush) to line and contour with the stunning glittery black. There's no fallout or mess involved, and as long as I keep the line clean and not exaggerated, the result is beautiful and never overdone.

Bottom Line: red carpet-worthy.

Hourglass Prism Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo ($38) is available from Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman and Sephora.

Happy Valentine's Day

2012-02-14T00:14:00.000-05:00

Photo by Edward Clark, 1950

Histoires de Parfums - 1876 Mata Hari

2012-02-13T23:56:00.000-05:00

Histoires de Parfums 1876 Mata Hari is a dirty spicy rose. But it's more complex than that. 1876 Mata Hari reveals itself in different ways to the people who wear it. Brian from I Smell Therefore I Am gets a medicinal vibe. Olenska of Parfumieren gets saffron. My own phantom note in this Histoires de Parfums creation is patchouli. These impressions should give you an idea about 1876. It can smell a bit larger than life as it doesn't apologize for going full force and being all femme fatale and seductive.

The opening is rosy and boozy. It sets the mood instantly as a heavy-lidded cleavagy kind of perfume. The lighter fruity accord barely registers on my skin (that's a first). Neither does the cumin. It's all clove and cinnamon with that patchouli-like backdrop that gives the rose its dark and scrumptious character.

1876 is more animalic than its Histoires de Parfums sibling, Noir Patchouli, but in a surprisingly quieter way. I fully agree with Brian that 1876 mellows down too quickly-- it's not a lack of longevity, because I can smell it at skin level 8 hours after spraying; but all those promises for a salacious encounter go down in a sweet fruity musk whisper. Still, there's a lot to enjoy in this fragrance, from the way it holds on to my sweaters to warmth sensuality. 1876 is perfumy and full of character without smelling retro (not that there's anything wrong with that), and has just enough mystery packed in between the spice, fruit and gothic rose.

Notes (via Aedes): bergamot, orange, lychee, rose , iris , violet, cumin, cinnamon, carnation, vetiver, guaiacum, sandalwood, musk, vanilla.

Histoires de Parfums -1876 Mata Hari ($205, 4oz) is available from Henri Bendel and Aedes. Anthropolgie stores also carry the travel spray size, priced very attractively.

Series of enhanced photos of Mata Hari circa 1905 from aslisuroboyo.multiply.com.