The Non-Blonde

Jean Patou- Normandie (Ma Collection) Vintage Perfume

2012-05-24T22:30:00.000-04:00

Twenty three years after the sinking of the Titanic, ocean liner Normandie made its maiden voyage from La Havre, France to New York. It was a luxury ship, meticulously decorated with everything art deco, and designed to accommodate a massive first class of rich and famous passengers. To commemorate the event, Jean Patou launched a perfume, Normandie, composed by his in-house perfumer, Henri Alméras.

Jean Patou's Normandie is a full-bodied and elegant floriental with an emphasis on carnation and spice. Some compare it to Bellodgia, and as a matter of fact if I were blind-testing I could have easily mistaken Normandie for a Caron perfume. It's probably a result of the way the composition employs oakmoss for bitterness and grounding without the chypre structure. I also find Normandie related to Guerlain's Vol de Nuit, especially in EDT, with similar high cheekbones and casual elegance.

Normandie's opulent flower notes are abstract in the best possible way. The carnation stands out because of the spicy pairing with its sibling, clove. The oriental base is tightly restraint by dry wood and oakmoss that lend it the crispness and what today we'd probably consider a unisex appeal. If Jean Patou's Ma Collection perfumes were still available, that is.

The disappearance of Jean Patou's classic fragrances from the shelves has been lamented here and elsewhere for years. The abuse this perfume house suffered by the hands of Procter &Gamble, its previous owner, did nothing to endear this company to perfume lovers. It was announced last year that P&G sold Jean Patou and its catalog. It is yet to be seen if Ma Collection perfumes will be resurrected. One can only hope.

Notes: fruits, carnation, jasmine, rose ,vanilla, benzoin, oakmoss, cedar, woods.

Images of 1935 travel posters from hprints.com.

Hakuhodo K007 Eyeliner Brush

2012-05-24T13:46:00.000-04:00

I was just going over photos and drafts when I realized I never talked about Hakuhodo K007 Eyeliner Brush, a classic thin eyeliner brush, that I've had for longer than I remember. Actually, I have two or three of them, since I use and test so many eyeliners, and this brush is also good for pinpoint concealing.

There are many good eyeliner brushes around (not to mention that you can also use art brushes for this purpose). Most of them look alike until you examine them closely and compare their performance side by side using various eyeliners, until you find which brush is ideal for each task. The uniqueness of Hakuhodo K007 is in the shortness of its hair (weasel. It grabs all the pigment you need in one go). It's closest to MAC 210, though the base of Hakuhodo K007 is thicker. The short bristles make the head non-floppy and easier to control, especially for beginners and those whose hand is less steady.

Bottom Line: an essential.

Hakuhodo K007 Eyeliner Brush ($15) is available from hakuhodousa.com. They offer worldwide shipping.

NARS Como Larger Than Life Lip Gloss

2012-05-24T12:27:00.000-04:00

I don't remember being as enamored with a NARS lip product as I am with their Como Larger Than Life Lip Gloss. The color, a medium berry with the finest gold micro-shimmer, is natural and flattering; a "my lips only much, much better". The formula of NARS lip glosses has improved greatly and Larger Than Life has am excellent not sticky texture that feels comfortable and hydrating (thus a bit volumizing). It even stays in place and leaves a little color behind better than an average gloss.

The pointed tiny brush applicator can be a bit annoying. It's good for a precise application and helps avoiding over gooping the lips, but it takes a little more work to fully coat the lips. Still, when applying in a hurry and on the go, I truly appreciate the brush of NARS Larger Than Life gloss as a mistake-proof applicator.

Bottom Line: I'll finish the tube before I know it.

NARS Como Larger Than Life Lip Gloss ($26) is available at NARS counters, Sephora, and narscosmetics.com.

Arquiste- Infanta en Flor

2012-05-23T22:38:00.001-04:00

Infanta Maria Teresa of Spain was the long-suffering wife of Louis XIV of France. Neither a great beauty, nor as sophisticated as the Versailles courtiers (and the king's mistresses), Maria Teresa was shy and retiring, but kind to those who showed her respect. It is hard to imagine today what it was like for the Spanish princess to leave her country and meet with her husband (they were first married by proxy) who was also her first cousin on both sides. At age 23, Louis was already a seasoned king, highly involved in politics and international intrigue. The Infanta had little to fall back on, other than her personal items she brought with her and still carried the scents of home.

Arquiste's Infanta en Flor is a homage to the princess, carrying a fan perfumed with orange flower water. Her travel trunks might have contained lace, Spanish leather and perhaps some incense. Perhaps they brought her some comfort in the court of the Sun King. The fragrance, developed as a collaboration between Arquiste founder Carlos Huber and perfumer Yann Vasnier, is a refined and delicate scent. It's predominantly a cleaned up orange blossom, over sweetened resins and light, skin-level leather. I was curious about the immortelle note, as it can be quite assertive, thick, and sweet; but there's no maple syrup here and immortelle-phobes should not fear and avoid trying this Arquiste perfume.

Infanta en Flor is first and foremost pretty. You won't smell the leather until you get very very close, and even then, it's a smooth and non-animalic note, with an almost sheer quality that allows the floral elements of the fragrance to take center stage. I'm guessing that spraying Infanta en Flor may produce a bigger sillage than dabbing it the way I did with the samples I had, but even so, the lasting power and the way the fragrance holds onto skin are impressive for something that appears at first sheer and delicate.

Notes: orange flower water, Spanish leather, cistus resin, immortelle.

Arquiste- Infanta en Flor ($175, 55ml EDP) is available from Aedes and Barneys. Some of the samples I had were supplied by PR.

Art:
Infanta Maria Teresa of Spain by Diego Velázquez, 1652-1953
Painting depicting marriage of Louis XIV of France and Maria Theresa of Spain by an unknown artist.

Laura Mercier Perfecting Water Moisture Mist

2012-05-23T13:27:00.001-04:00

I have a minor addiction to face mists, mostly the kind that is more of a skincare product and adds moisture (I'm a bit wary of makeup fixative sprays, but I have a few and use them occasionally). There's something to be said for starting the morning with a refreshing spray of a "good for your skin" product to wake you up, plump up the face and give the moisturizer something extra to grab.

The ingredients of this mist (from Laura Mercier's website):

Aqua (Water), Maris Aqua (Sea Water), Glycerin, Betaine, Butylene Glycol, Artemia Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Carmellia Sinensis Lef Powder, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Trehalose, Pyrus Cydonia Seed Extract, Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran, 10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid, Sebacic Acid, 1,10-Decanediol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Disodium EDTA, PVM/MA Decadiene Crosspolymer, Potassium Hydroxide, Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate, Methylparaben.

Basically, this is a water-glycerin concoction, enriched with some plant extracts and seed oils. I know that some of you make your own sprays, which is a great idea for the crafty. I like this Laura Mercier's version because it's scentless and does exactly what it promises: hydrates and enhances the performance of my moisturizer. It's also refreshing, delicate, and non-sticky. I sometimes use it after applying my makeup to ensure a natural non-powdery finish. It is not a setting spray, so don't use it if what you need is to cement makeup into place; but it is a good and handy product for those of us who need all the hydrating we can get.

I've had my bottle for six months now and barely made a dent in it, despite frequent use. Thus, I'll say that unless you're good at making your own and feel happy with what you get, Laura Mercier's version is a reasonably good value, as the concentration requires a small amount.

Bottom Line: Love.

Laura Mercier Perfecting Water Moisture Mist ($38) is available at the counters and from lauramercier.com.

Guerlain Terracotta Blush Sun Shimmer Highlighter 02 Sunny Pink

2012-05-23T12:38:00.000-04:00

Fans of Guerlain's Terracotta line are always thrilled to see a new addition. There's something about the colors and formulas of these face products that transforms us even on the rainiest days of East Coast spring, and brings on the Mediterranean sun. Or so we tell ourselves. Sallow? Not when we can bronze and highlight with pretty colors and gossamer-like textures.

This spring, Guerlain released two shades of Terracotta Blush Sun Shimmer Highlighter. It's a liquid blush in a pump bottle. The color looks very intense at first, but can be sheered to almost nothing with minimal blending. I swatched by "painting" the blush on my arm, and you can certainly do that on your face and even build the color, but I prefer a more natural look, especially since it is a shimmery blush: a hybrid of a blush and a highlighter. Sometimes I mix some of this Guerlain Terracotta Blush Sun Shimmer Highlighter with my tinted moisturizer and apply to choice areas for an overall glow. Another favorite method is to stipple a little over the cheekbones.

I find that this Guerlain Terracotta product lasts well enough unless the weather is humid. I wore it last week when staying by the beach and discovered that by the time I was back at the hotel there wasn't much blush left, though the rest of my makeup was intact. The next day I topped it with a powder blush and all was well.

Terracotta Blush Sun Shimmer Highlighter comes in 02 Sunny Pink, which is the one you see here, and 03 Spicy Coral. Sunny Pink is a warm apricot pink, which is easy to wear. I had a look at Spicy Coral but found it too orange for me. If you're darker and/or have a nice glowing bronzy tan, Spicy Coral might be a very good fit.

Bottom Line: Pretty.

Guerlain Terracotta Blush Sun Shimmer Highlighter ($41) is available from Gueralin counters and Sephora. The product was part of a gift bag I received at a Bergdorf Goodman press event.

Etat Libre d'Orange- Fils de Dieu

2012-05-22T21:42:00.002-04:00

The full name of this perfume by Etat Libre d'Orange is Fils de Dieu, du Riz et des Agrumes. It means "Son of God, rice and citrus"; On the website of Etat Libre d'Orange it's also accompanied by the tagline "S/He brings on the sunshine". It's a big promise, for sure, and also quite poetic. Yes, this comes from the same line that brought us the abomination of Secretion Magnifique and some of its siblings. Thankfully, it seems like everyone has moved on.

Fils de Dieu opens up sparkly and sunny, half a step up from a really good lime-cologne (the ginger and general spiciness provide a more interesting twist from the very beginning). The herb garden has an Asian spice market feel, but still maintains an easygoing freshness that's friendly to all and gender-inclusive. I rarely find citrus notes and light accords so engaging, but here it not only smells good, but has me pining for more. If you ask me, perfumer Ralf Schwieger who composed this fragrance for Etat Libre d'Orange needs to teach a class or two on how to do a fresh opening accord without insulting the taste and intelligence of the market. Just about everyone could use this lesson.

It gets more interesting and complicated. The long list of notes starts playing here, offering several interesting facets, most of them around a gourmand theme. The star of Fils de Dieu's development is rice, and the composition takes it from savory to sweet, from what Candy Perfume Boy describes as "lightly spiced Thai curry" to one of my favorite desserts, a milky coconut rice pudding. Victoria of Bois de Jasmin observes that Fils de Dieu is related to Shalimar, and I get it. This fragrance takes the "oriental" idea quite literally, and the result is not just exotic, but also beautiful, modern, and very satisfying. What Etat Libre d'Orange offers us here is not exactly the cuddly comfort gourmand that wraps us up in its cashmere fuzziness and lulls us to sleep. Instead, Fils de Dieu is something to wear as one gets ready to take on the day: it's fortifying and pleasing, while unique enough to provide a personal touch to one's outfit.

Notes: Ginger, coriander leaves, lime, shiso, bergamot, Jungle Essence coconut, rice note, Jungle Essence cardamom, jasmine, cinnamon, French May rose, tonka bean, vetiver, musk, amber, leather, castoreum.

Etat Libre d'Orange- Fils de Dieu ($80, 50ml EDP) is available from MiN NY, Henri Bendel, Parfum1,and Luckyscent. The samples for this review came with various purchases.

Photo: Rice market in Vietnam, Wikimedia Commons.

Morphé Brushes- IB120 Jumbo Kabuki Fan Brush

2012-05-22T14:48:00.001-04:00

My Louise Young LY20 super fan brush gets lot of use. Enough so I'd go and look for a backup (it takes a while to dry). There are few options on the market for such a massive fan brush, so the one from Morphé Brushes (Italian Badger series) caught my eye.

Morphé Brushes claim to be cruelty-free, so that's a nice bonus. The Italian Badger series has pretty handles made of mahogany wood coated in a glossy finish. The handles are considerably shorter than the ones of Louise Young, and that's a minus for me, but I know many people prefer shorter brushes. Overall, Morphé IB120 is definitely comparable to the Louise Young fan brush in softness, density, and performance, as long as you're willing to deal with two issues: Morphé IB120 spreads wider (see last two photos below), so it covers a larger area, and it's not as thick and lush as LY20 (though it's close). Morphé IB120 also gives me issues with placing it in my brush roll (the taller LY20 doesn't get in the way as much), but that's really a minor thing for me.

I've had my Morphé IB120 for about 5 weeks now, washed it a couple of times, and while it lost a few hairs initially, I'm happy with this brush and use it as backup.

Bottom Line: can't beat the price.

Morphé Brushes- IB120 Jumbo Kabuki Fan Brush ($11.55) is available from morphebrushes.com. I bought mine at IMATS NY.

Fairydrops Scandal Queen Mascara

2012-05-22T12:06:00.000-04:00

Here's why I had to try Fairydrops Scandal Queen Mascara: a new(ish) product, cute packaging, a gimmicky brush, and the coveted "made in Japan" label. This spells irresistible, even if I have no idea who is Aya Yasuda, the TV personality credited with creating Scandal Queen for Fairydrops (I understand the brand has other products, but Scandal Queen is the only one offered at Sephora US).

I was curious about the wand more than about the actual formula. The brush head is slightly curved, which we've all seen before, but also consists of three bulbs, making the middle one stick forward. Sephora's website and the mascara box give this directions for use:

-Beginning with the middle ball, gently rock the wand back and forth as you draw and curl your lashes upwards.

-After initial application with the entire wand, use the tip to precisely define and extend target areas.

-Remove with warm water.

I have to say that at least for my lashes there was no dramatic effect that made Fairydrops Scandal Queen stand out. Unless one's eye shape is an exact match to the curve of this brush, coating the lashes evenly becomes an exercise in patience and fine motor skills. Even then, the fibrous formula might end up clumping on one side while looking sparse on another. Using the ball at the tip of the wand is not a new idea. Givenchy and a few imitators already showed us that this is a key in reaching the shortest wimpiest lashes and extending them with truly "wow" results. So, yes, this aspect of Fairydrops Scandal Queen mascara truly works, but the curve of the head makes it a bit awkward to maneuver. As for the promise for a good curling effect and hold, the mascara doesn't save you from having to spend quality time with your lash curler (the only part of applying makeup that I detest), and doesn't hold it any better than the average high quality mascara, but your mileage may vary greatly, depending on the cooperativeness of your lashes.

On the upside, Fairydrops Scandal Queen didn't bother my eyes, smudge, or migrate, so the formula is pretty decent in that regard. I just wish that if Sephora is already bringing interesting Japanese brands, they'll focus on the really good ones.

Bottom Line: meh.

Fairydrops Scandal Queen Mascara ($24) is available from Sephora, online and in store.

Fragrance For A Formal Event

2012-05-21T20:38:00.000-04:00

I'm scheduling this post to be published while I'm attending tonight's FiFi Awards gala. It's a formal event (black tie optional), and while my dress is cocktail-length (a better fit for someone my height and proportions), I'm thinking about makeup, accessories and fragrance that are all about glamour. Here's a quick list of perfumes that as far as I'm concerned go well with an evening gown. In no particular order:

1. Guerlain Mitsouko and Shalimar. You can't beat the classics, especially in extrait.
2. Vero Profumo- Onda. It takes no prisoners.
3. Amouage anything, but especially Lyric Woman.
4. JAR Diamond Water. The name says it all.
5. Panthere de Cartier (extrait layered with the the EDP), because I wore it for my wedding.
6. Tango by Aftelier, for a mysterious air.
7. Robert Piguet Fracas, because it's the queen of tuberose. Get your date to wear Bandit.
8. Mona di Orio Nuit Noire. Of course.
9. Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque. This is what Uncle Serge wears when he's out on the prowl. Good enough for me.
10. Tauer Un Rose Chypree. Opulent and romantic, even if you're wearing three pairs of Spanx.

Photo of model Dorian Leigh in a Robert Piguet gown by Richard Avedon, 1949, myvintagevogue.com.

Miley Cyrus & Nelly Furtado at the 2012 Billboard Music Awards

2012-05-21T13:49:00.000-04:00

I didn't give much thought to the 2012 Billboard Music Awards until I saw photos of Miley Cyrus redefining questionable taste and Nelly Furtado giving a bad name to stylists everywhere. I don't have many expectations from Miley Cyrus and I shouldn't be surprised to see her exposing way too much of everything (the rule about showing either boobs or legs is there for a reason). The hair could have been adorable if it were the only statement in Miley's look. As it is, it gives me porn vibes.

Poor Nelly Furtado. I like her eye makeup (everything else looks a bit caked). Her beautiful Alberta Ferretti dress deserves a much better styling. Everything else is clownish and confused: the nude pumps don't belong with this look, the necklace is overwhelming, the earrings are atrocious, and that black bustier delivers the death blow to elegance as we know it.

What say you?

Photos: Zimbio and Dlisted

Victoria Beckham's Cat Eye

2012-05-21T13:32:00.003-04:00

Victoria Beckham and questionably-coiffed David attended the 27th Anniversary Sports Spectacular benefiting the Cedars-Sinai Medical Genetics Institute last night. Those who said the cat-eye look over should take note of Victoria's makeup here. Nothing is passe until Posh says it is. I really like everything about her hair and makeup (the dress from Victoria's own Spring collection looks uncomfortable). And is it just me or did she let the inner side of her eyebrows grow back a little? VB used to go for the further apart look.

Photo of the Beckhams via Zimbio.

Sue Devitt Babylon Balanced Matte Lipstick

2012-05-21T12:34:00.003-04:00

The formula of Sue Devitt Balanced Matte Lipstick is much nicer than other matte lipsticks I've tried. It's creamier and more comfortable, doesn't make my lips look and feel parched (I prep with a rich lip balm, though), and has a satin finish. I still prefer more moisturizing formulas, but for what it is, Sue Devitt's lipstick is a very good option.

Babylon is a very warm almost coral pink. I wear it under various glosses that add a red or a mauve tinge, but most skin tones can pull it off as is, since this is a really pretty color in a full coverage formula. This Sue Devitt lipstick has an excellent longevity and barely transfers to glasses and such.

Bottom Line: long-wearing and reliable.

Sue Devitt Balanced Matte Lipstick ($20) in Babylon and nine other colors is available from Barneys and other select department stores, as well as from suedevittbeauty.com. The product was sent to me free of charge for consideration and review.

Kelly & Jones Notes Of Wine Collection

2012-05-21T00:07:00.001-04:00

As fragonerds we often compare our little hobby to that of oenophiles. We sniff the juice, take in the notes (real and imaginary), obsess about vintage and raw materials, and dream of France. Some of us buy wine fridges to store our precious bottles in a controlled environment and dream of having a perfume cellar adjacent to our bedrooms. That's where it usually ends, as wearing perfume is frowned-upon in wine tasting, and a grape note in perfume is pretty uncommon (I'm drawing a blank trying to think of any) and is most likely to smell too synthetic and grapejuicy.

Interestingly, Kelly of new the lifestyle brand Kelly & Jones was inspired to create her Notes Of Wine Collection after making the faux pas of wearing a vanilla-based perfume to a wine tasting and noticing how her fragrance affected her perception of the various wines. The Notes Of Wine Collection includes five eau de parfums. They do not smell like wine, but are trying to capture notes and nuances that appear in certain wine. They are supposed to go with wine and enhance the tasting experience. I can't comment on that aspect as I hardly ever drink, and I'm pretty much clueless about wine. So these are my impressions of the perfumes alone.

#1 Notes of Sauvignon Blanc: Notes of yuzu grapefruit, starfruit, green apple and a hint of camellia flower. This is the lightest of the Kelly & Jones perfumes, but it's not as weightless a citrus as I expected. As a matter of fact, it's more of a sheer golden fruity thing than a true citrus. There's something a bit metallic and green in the dry-down.

#2 Notes of Riesling: Aromas of fresh-picked white peach, anjou pear, bergamot and raspberry leaf. A surprisingly grown-up sweet fruity perfumes. Normally the combination of peach and pear would send me running up the vineyard's hills, but I survived and managed to actually enjoyed this bottled summer day. Riesling is actually restrained in the way it uses the fruity notes- not cloyingly sweet and none of the generic cheap musk we find in many mass-market perfumes of the genre. It dries down into a quiet smooth wood.

#3 Notes of Cabernet: Spicy notes of pink peppercorn, ripe black cherry, and tobacco flower on a base of vintage leather. This might be my favorite of the collection. Cabernet opens up with a vintage vibe, not just the promised vintage leather, but also a sepia-colored image, an attic full of treasures, sumptuous dark cherry, and oh that leather!

#4 Notes of Merlot: A blend of red currant, mission fig, rhubarb and lovely candied violet. this is another mostly-fruit perfume, sweeter than I hoped, with the red rhubarb drowning any hint of fig, at least on my skin. Still, Merlot is pretty and easy to wear, it smells very modern, for better and for worse, and I wish it had much more of a base.

#5 Notes of Chardonnay: Sweet honeydew melon, vanilla blossom, crème brulee, toasted oak. I had to brace and fortify myself before first trying Chardonnay. A sweet melon is among my most hated perfume notes, and that might be an understatement. However, I ended up fully enjoying Chardonnay. I get creme brulee, pipe tobacco and cough medicine, in an oddly appealing balance. This is going to be a love-or-hate perfume for most, and I'm firmly in the "love" camp. I never met a creme brulee I didn't like.

My overall impression of the Kelly & Jones Notes Of Wine Collection is very positive. These are truly nice fragrances, original enough to be worth my time and skin. They're well composed and are far beyond the gimmick I feared. I don't know if a professional nose was in any way involved in the creation of this collection. There was a moment or three where I smelled a familiar hint of that hay accord by Christopher Brosius (especially in #1, Sauvignon Blanc), but the Kelly & Jones perfumes are very far from his recognizable style, so I doubt he had anything to do with it.

The husband says that the fragrances smell closer to the feminine end of the spectrum, and he may be right. I do think that #1 Notes of Sauvignon Blanc and #3 Notes of Cabernet are unisex and will be easy to wear for a man. The sillage is polite, at least when dabbing, and longevity is pretty decent at 4-6 hours with moderate application.

Kelly & Jones Notes Of Wine Collection (each 1.69 oz EDP bottle retails for $84. There's a sample pack of all five fragrances at $20) is available from kellyandjones.com.

* With many thanks to Kelly Kreth who pointed me in the direction of Kelly & Jones Notes Of Wine Collection.

Photo of Lucy stomping grapes for wine-making from somewhere around the web.

The Sound Of My Childhood Is Gone

2012-05-20T21:04:00.000-04:00

Robin Gibb (1949-2012) and Donna Summer (1948-2012) were a major part of the soundtrack of my childhood. They'll be missed .

Keiko Mecheri Bespoke- Ambre Mirabilis

2012-05-17T19:14:00.000-04:00

I give up. There's no limit to the number of great and highly desirable amber perfumes. I love them, I wear them, and I want them all. Case in point: Ambre Mirabilis from the newly launched Keiko Mecheri Bespoke collection. I did roll my eyes a little when the concept was introduced. A bespoke perfume is something a bit different. But I smelled, tested, and retested several of Keiko Mecheri's Bespoke fragrances, and I sort of get it. Let's think of it as an even more personal, a "director's cut" series of olfactory fantasies. It makes more sense in this contest.

Ambre Mirabilis is an oriental perfume, sort of an Arabian Nights themed, sensual, spicy and just a little (very little) dirty. Perumer Keiko Mecheri combined the inside pleasure of the harem with the intoxicating aspects of the bazaar outside. The result is reminiscent of a 19th century orientalist art more than the true-to-life snapshot of Uncle Serge's Arabie. Regular readers may remember that as far as I'm concerned, Arabie is so realistic that I can't wear it and keep my food down at the same time; so Keiko Mecheri's way is very welcome in this case.

The first thing I smell in Ambre Mirabilis is a soft and slightly sweeten spice market. More coriander than cumin, maybe a hint of saffron or a nutmeggy touch. It's a soft and welcoming spicy accord, nothing aggressive or harsh there. There's opulence of rose-scented sweets, fruit preserved in spice and sugar, but it's all happening behind a light smoky screen, blurring and distorting the notes just a little. There's a mystery there: dim lights, silk screens, last night's burnt incense.

Keiko Mecheri's Ambre Mirabilis is as subtle and delicate as a woody amber fragrance can be. It has a dream quality, you see and smell it through a haze. I usually go for the heavy hitters, but I've fallen for this charming one. My sample (all gone now) was of the dab-on kind; I have a feeling that were I to spray myself liberally, the lasting power (about 5 hours, if I apply enough) would improve.

Notes: ambergris, taif rose, cedar, patchouli, spices and agarwood (oud).

Keiko Mecheri Bespoke- Ambre Mirabilis ($275, 50ml EDP) is available from MiN NY and Luckyscent. The sample for this review was supplied by MiN.

Art: Arabian Nights by Hans Zatzka, early 20th century.

The Ghosts Of Cannes Film Festivals Past

2012-05-17T13:22:00.002-04:00

Grace Kelly, 1955

Cary Grant and Kim Novak, 1959

Andy Warhol, Nico, and Vanessa Redgrave, 1967

Brigitte Bardot, 1955

Elizabeth Taylor and Michael Todd, 1957

Photos: Stirred, Straight Up With a Twist and magazine.motilo.com.

Lana Del Rey at the 65th Cannes Film Festival Opening Night

2012-05-17T12:58:00.002-04:00

I don't think I've ever seen Lana Del Rey looking so elegant and put-together. She attended the 65th Cannes Film Festival opening night wearing an Alberta Ferretti Fall 2012 gown and Chopard jewelry (seriously. Lana Del Rey in Chopard!). I'm still unsure what to make of her, but I can get used to this kind of glamour.

Photos: PacificCoastNews.com via Zimbio.

Burberry Sheer Summer Glow

2012-05-17T00:35:00.000-04:00

There are several gorgeous limited edition face/bronzing products for summer 2012. I decided not to go crazy with them this year and only get the most unique one I could find, which meant Burberry Sheer Summer Glow. As of today, I've had my Burberry compact for nearly two weeks and have worn it every single day in several ways. It's unlike any other face product I have, combining some features of a bronzer, highlighter, blush, and a finishing powder, and doing all that while maintaining a natural finish.

First, a warning: I'm somewhere between NC30 and NC35, though neither are a true match. If you're darker than that or your skin tone is richer and more yellow (I'm a neutral green), Burberry Sheer Summer Glow might not show up or do much of anything for you. The swatches above, made with an extra wide sponge applicator, are heavier than an actual application should be.

Burberry Sheer Summer Glow includes four shades, all ultra finely milled with an almost gossamer-like finish (again, when you apply with an appropriate brush). I numbered the shades clockwise: 1. medium intensity bronze, 2. peachy pink champagne highlighter, 3. ivory highlighter, 4. light tan. You have several options for blending and combining some or all, depending on the desired effect.

A large kabuki face brush, such as Burberry's own face brush (which I don't have), preferably of natural hair, is good for swirling over the four Summer Glow shades and applying for an allover sheer glow that gives the mildest, most subtle tan (think of it as an absolute opposite of the Jersey Shore/Tan Mom look). Other effects can be achieved by only using one or two shades on specific areas. Here's what I do: 1+2 mixed together as a neutral blush (and small medium dense blush brush will do). 1+4 as a bronzer, where you'd normally apply for a sun-kissed look. Then there's all the other stuff you can do by using Hakuhodo 210, 212, and S114: I used shade no. 4 for contouring (you can't detect any shimmer), 2+3 for highlighting, 2+4 either under or over a blush. No matter how I use Burberry Sheer Summer Glow, the effect is of an almost no-makeup look, with just lovely enhancements.

Bottom Line: drop dead gorgeous, if you got the right coloring.

Several other bloggers have already swatched and reviewed this product. Their skin tones are vastly different than mine, so it's worth your time to see how Burberry Sheer Summer Glow looks and performs on The Beauty Look Book, Messy Wands, and Cafe Makeup.

Burberry Sheer Summer Glow ($50) is available at Nordstrom and can also be pre-ordered from Saks.

My Favorite Masculine Fragrances

2012-05-16T17:55:00.000-04:00

In honor of the husband's birthday, I wanted to share a list of my favorite masculine fragrances. Not "best masculines for women", nor officially unisex ones; only fragrances that were created/promoted for men. In no particular order:

Guerlain Derby. Better in vintage form, but the current version is still miles ahead than most modern fragrances. Green, leathery, and oakmossy, Derby is all class.

Speaking of Guerlain, I have to add Arsene Lupin (formerly Arsene Luipn Dandy). An oriental leather, sleek, and elegant.

Terre d'Hermes (both EDT and Parfum). Vegetable, mineral and animal. Also very peppery and alert; modern in the best possible way.

Tauer Perfumes Incense Extreme. This is the cleanest and most austere incense perfume I know. Like stopping by woods on a snowy evening. Its opposite is Tauer's equally unforgettable Lonestar Memories. The prairie at high noon.

Mazzolari Liu is not very well-known beyond the most devoted fragonerds, but it should be. Some say it's all chest hair, but to me it's the million dollar patchouli.

Ormonde Jayne- Ormonde Man is the masculine version of the beloved Ormonde Woman. Can a man smell bewitching? If so, this is how.

Penhaglion Sartorial is a modern fougere, Duchaufour-style. It's formal and elegant, totally boardroom-worthy.

Tom Ford Private Blend Tuscan Leather. I'm cheating a little, because I don't think the Private Blend is marketed with gender in mind, but I suspect that when a man walks up to the counter, this will be one of the fragrances offered (especially now that Japon Noir and Bois Rouge have been discontinured).

Parfum d'Habit by MPG is another one that should be smelled far beyond our little crowd. Leather and vetiver in a perfect balance.

And last, I know I need to pick a vetiver, since it's such a favorite in our house. I waffled a bit, but I think the most beautiful of the one I know is Vetyver by Mona di Orio.

Hakuhodo Kokutan Blush Brush S

2012-05-16T12:35:00.000-04:00

I've been planning to add more Kokutan brushes to my little collection for quite a while, and last month's IMATS show was the perfect opportunity to do it. Hakuhodo Kokutan Blush Brush S (model no. H2282) has a narrow elongated head that blends blue squirrel hair with synthetic fibers, to achieve the ultimate softness. Like my other Hakuhodo Kokutan face brush, it feels heavenly on my skin, making applying blush an extra nice experience. Kokutan brushes are wonderfully luxurious, from the elegant ebony handles to the silky touch. And they perform beautifully.

I use this small(ish) Hakuhodo Kokutan with most blushes. I even tested it with a crazy intense color such as Chanel Rouge, and it worked (the key is being careful when collecting the products). It's also wonderful with mellow blushes that you want to gradually build up; the brush's softness allows you to work on it without stressing out the skin (especially important if you're sensitive and your cheeks turn red when you apply makeup, then lose that redness only to reveal that you applied less blush than is good for you).

The closest blush brush in my collection to the Hakuhodo Kokutan Blush Brush S is the RMK Cheek brush. It's similar in softness and width, but the Hakuhodo is slightly longer and has less bounce. They are mostly interchangeable, but the Kokutan is slightly more gentle.

Bottom Line: highly recommended.

Hakuhodo Kokutan Blush Brush S ($77) is available from hakuhodousa.com. They offer worldwide shipping.

Hourglass Suede Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo

2012-05-16T11:07:00.000-04:00

Hourglass Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo in Suede is a perfect makeup item. Yes, it's variations on a beige theme, but when it comes to our faces, beige is not a bad word. The shimmery duo includes an ivory and a taupish beige, and the way it's going to work for you depends on your skin tone.

I saw Hourglass Suede Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo on a pale, almost translucent skin of a woman with red hair and blue eyes, and it was a beautiful look that made her eyes stand out. Then there's me, whose eyelids are much darker (it's the green undertone plus the abundance of blood vessels). On me, this duo is nude perfection. Shimmer eye shadows don't really qualify as a "no makeup" look, but this is as close as it gets without losing the highlighting and brightening effect of Hourglass eye shadows.

The silky texture of Hourglass products is legendary. Suede goes on silky and smooth, needs little blending if any, and stays on, pretty and flattering over a primer, until you're ready to take your makeup off. It's also great over a cream shadow base, from Bobbi Brown and Laura Mercier to Ellis Faas. Pair with a black eyliner, and a red lipstick for the a gorgeous classic look.

Bottom Line: three more duos to get.

Hourglass Suede Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo ($38) is available from Barneys, Bergdorf and Sephora, online and in store.

Nez à Nez- Immortelle Marilyn

2012-05-15T21:44:00.000-04:00

Marilyn Monroe is as immortal as it gets, and she seems to be on everyone's mind lately: we have the TV musical Smash (a guilty pleasure, though I could have lived without the karaoke), Michelle Williams on Weekend With Marilyn, there was a TV mini series ,"Blonde", a fictional biography based on the novel by Joyce Carol Oates, and now we also have a fictional bespoke perfume, Immortelle Marilyn from Nez à Nez.

I wanted to raise a cynical eyebrow and perhaps not to like Immortelle Marilyn, but it was impossible. I was smitten from the first time I tried it. Marilyn Monroe according to Stephane Humbert Lucas, the creative force behind Nez à Nez, is sweet, nutty, soft and just a little heartbreaking. It fits.

The opening of Immortelle Marilyn is juicy red raspberry, tangy and sweet. This note melts nicely into the big and soft immortelle heart that is a bit dryer and more nutty than the usual maple syrup accord it creates, thanks to a generous dose of hazelnuts. I don't think it's cloying, but those who dislike immortelle in perfume are not going to come around. The deliciousness is somewhat tamed by a iris. I wish this note was even more amplified than it is here, but I shouldn't complain. We're given plenty of it, both the buttery aspect and the dry and powdery one, and since the iris here is not sweet at all, the gourmand notes are balanced and kept at a tasteful level.

Then there's leather. Soft, smooth and buttery, the leather note in Immortelle Marilyn whispers softly and absorbs some of the other notes into its folds. Did Marilyn borrow a leather jacket from one of the guys and wrapped it around her curves? This is a very feminine and sexy perfume, captivating and forever young.

Notes: Immortelle, Raspberry, Hazelnut, Ylang, Iris, Leather, Nutmeg, Musk.

Immortelle Marilyn by Nez à Nez ($165, 100 ml EDP) is available from Henri Bendel in NYC and Luckyscent.

Real Techniques Setting Brush

2012-05-15T12:16:00.000-04:00

The Setting Brush is one of three new Real Techniques tools that were recently launched (together with the Face Expert brush and a fine eyeliner one). This fluffy setting brush might be my favorite of the three, as it's not just good and useful, but also unique enough that I don't have anything similar in my not-so-small brush arsenal.

Real Techniques Setting Brush looks like a supersized domed blending brush. It's not crazy fluffy and long haired like the Hakuhodo G5537 and G5538, and it's packed much more densely. It's also a synthetic brush, and just as suitable for use with cream products as it is with powders. As a matter of fact, after the first round of testing when I tried the Setting Brush with just about every face and finishing product I own, I decided to keep it for use with creams: buffing concealer and blending cream highlighters.

It's the full round shape of the soft Setting Brush that makes it so good at buffing products. It's excellent to use it when going back to clean up under the eyes when it still has some foundation or concealer residue. The tapered head lets you go in and reach under the eyes just as well as the sides of the nose.

As you can see, I compared it with a brush of a similar size and function (though a completely different shape), Shu Uemura 14 (yes, I realize that I have yet to review it, but as is obvious from the photos below, it's rare to catch it clean, so I never got to photograph it). The Shu 14 brush is also used to apply highlighter, concealer or even foundation to small areas. The technique for using it is quite different, though. If you've ever watched YouTube videos by Korean makeup artist Jung Saem Mool, you probably noticed how she applies makeup in small, precise patting motions. It gives a flawless, full coverage finish, different than buffing but no less effective. These photos, I hope, show exactly why both brushes are ideal for different techniques using the same products.

The second comparison is to Sephora #57 Pro Airbrush. The latter has a full round head of dense bristles, but has always annoyed me by being slightly uneven (I understand that it's a quality control issue that only happened with some of the brushes in the series). It also has a little too much give for good buffing action.

The talkon bristles are as soft as expected. I did find a couple of hairs that were too long and oddly placed in the brush, which required microsurgery, but since this is a mass-market item and not a handcrafted brush such issues can happen.

You can see the brush designer, Samantha Chapman (of Pixiwoo fame) demonstrates the use of her setting brush here.

Bottom Line: I could use a second one.

Real Techniques Setting Brush ($8) is available at Ulta. I was sent the product for consideration by the company's PR.

Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics- Mystere Lipstick

2012-05-15T09:47:00.000-04:00

Mystere lipstick from Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics looks downright menacing in the tube. A metallic finish for a ruby red worthy of a witch's shoes can be quite a statement. Those of us with frosty makeup nightmares are also likely to look at Mystere suspiciously. But the lipstick was part of a gift bag, and I'm here to try stuff you don't have to, so I got a lipstick brush and hoped for the best.

I already have a couple of lipsticks from Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics and I love them very much. The formula is pliable, comfortable and leaves my lips feeling good and never parched. Mystere is no different, and as you can see, it can actually be applied almost sheer. It's a dramatic color, of course, and has a high shimmer content, but no actual glittery particles. Mystere is a pretty and fun evening lipstick color, and long lasting enough to make it a good choice when one doesn't want the color all over the champagne glass.

Bottom Line: deserves some love.

Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics lipstick ($19) is available from Henri Bendel, Fred Segal, and ybskin.com. I received the product as a gift during a press event.