Mid-Michigan Flower Gardening

Clay, clay...go away

2012-07-05T20:13:00.000-07:00

We have the best clay in the county around here, just kidding... Unfortunately, most plants hate clay and refuse to do anything in it other than die. A girl can only plant so many containers until she notices that there are huge spaces that need to be filled in with something in the ground. Finally, a list of clay-friendly plants to take to the greenhouse after the next good rainfall (because that's the only time I can get a shovel into the ground).

Clay-Friendly Plants

Rudbeckia-Black Eyed Susan

spreads quickly, but is not invasive

Amsonia-Blue Star

adaptable--soggy to clay, sun to part shade
spring and fall blooms

Aster

fall blooms
available in a variety of colors

Baptisia

spring blooms ranging from white to yellow or purple

Canna

rhizomes can be removed, stored for the winter, and re-planted in spring

Coreopsis

spreads into a great groundcover

Echinacea-Purple Coneflower

birds and butterflies love this

Eryngium-Sea Holly

related to thistles
deer and rabbit resistant

Heliopsis-False Sunflower

blooms all summer
heat and drought tolerant

Hemerocallis-Daylily

many varieties bloom several times throughout the summer

Heuchera-Coral Bells

foliage plant

Liatris-Blazing Star

attractive to butterflies
popular cut flower

Monarda-Bee Balm

attractive to hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees
deer and rabbit resistant

Perovskia-Russian Sage

thrives in hot, sunny and dry environments
can be a bit invasive

Solidago-Golden Rod

grows between 2-5 feet tall

Achillea-Yarrow

attractive to butterflies
deer resistant

Vernonia-Ironweed

tolerates heat and drought

Yucca Filamentosa

blooms early summer

Sedum

full sun
blooms late summer/early fall

Bug Off!!

2012-04-30T15:42:00.003-07:00

We love our gardens, we hate garden pests. What do we hate more than pests...chemical pesticides. Most wildlife poisonings and surface water contamination comes from chemical pesticides. In North America, approximately 136 million pounds of chemical pesticides are used on lawns, gardens, and in the home. What to do? Never fear, because for almost any pest there is a natural remedy!

Natural Pest Control

Prevention:

The first step in controlling garden pests is to make the environment inhospitable. You can accomplish this by:

Pulling weak plants-If they are not already infected, they will be. Weak plants are a predator's dream. Pull them carefully, wrap them up in newspaper, and throw them away.

Build healthy soil-Use natural compost, mulch, and fertilizers to grow healthy, vigorous plants.

Clean your garden-weeds and debris are insect breeding grounds.

Keep the foliage dry-Wet leaves encourage molds, fungi, and pests. For watering tips, check out http://midmichiganflowergardening.blogspot.com/2012/04/its-just-water.html

Regularly disinfect-Keep your tools clean.

Members of the Umbelliferae family

Using Other Insects

Beneficial insects can be lured into your garden or purchased from catalogues. Beneficial insects prey on harmful insects and their larvae.

Brachonids, Chalcids, and Ichneumon Wasps-destroy leaf-eating caterpillar. Carrots, celery, parsley, caraway, and Queen Anne's lace will attract them to your garden.

Ladybugs-prey on aphids, whiteflies, mites, and scale. Plant daisies, tansy, or yarrow to attract ladybugs.

Yarrow

Lacewings-prey on aphids and their larvae. To attract them, plant yarrow, goldenrod, black-eyed susans, and asters.

Praying mantis-Love to eat almost all garden pests. You will need to order the eggs online and hatch them in your garden.

Nematodes-prey on cutworms, beetles, and root-weevil larvae. They are harmless to humans and pets. These will also be ordered online. http://www.greenhousecatalog.com/product/beneficial-nematodes/pest-control

DIY Products

1 tbs. Canola Oil

3-5 drops Liquid Ivory Soap

1 qt. water

Mix ingredients well and put into a spray bottle. Spray your plants from top to bottom and bottom to top, being sure to get the undersides of foliage. The oil will smother soft-bodied insects, such as mites, aphids, and mealybugs.

Spider Mites

2 tbs. Hot Sauce or cayenne pepper

3-5 drops Liquid Ivory Soap

1 qt. water

Mix well and let stand overnight. Transfer mixture into a spray bottle and use the same method as above to help control mites and other insects. Be sure to shake the bottle several times during application.

Aphid Infestation

2 tbs. baking soda

1 qt. water

Mix well and spray plants displaying fungal disease. You will need to re-spray every couple days until signs of disease are gone.

Fungal Disease

**Note**Sprays that kill harmful insects will also kill beneficial insects. Spray only infected plants. It is best to spray early in the morning. Re-apply after rain.

Other Pests

While they may not be what we typically think of when we think of garden pests, deer will eat up to 5 pounds of greenery per day. They are creatures of habit and once they find a great place to feed, the will keep coming back for more. Fortunately, deer can also be deterred using natural remedies.

1 c. Milk

2 Tbs. Cooking Oil

2 Tbs. Liquid Detergent

2 Eggs

2 Gallons water

Feel free to add a few drops of hot sauce, mix well, and spray area. Continue spraying the area until the deer give up find a new food source.

Enjoy!

It's Just Water...

2012-04-25T09:10:00.000-07:00

Have you ever wondered about watering your garden? I mean, it's just water, you spray the plants and be done with it, right? Wrong...Good gardeners will want to get the most out of their garden while conserving natural resources, and certain methods of watering at certain times of the day will accomplish both goals.

How To:

The needs of plants and the need to conserve water go hand-in-hand. To help form strong root systems, plants should be watered deeply and infrequently. Deep watering requires you to water slowly so that the water is absorbed into the soil rather than running off. Your garden needs 1-2 inches of water per week or approximately 1/2 gallon per square foot (more if it is extremely dry). It is best to use hoses and watering cans so you can target your plants. Using sprinklers is inefficient and can actually damage your plants. Too much water leeches important nutrients from the soil and blocks essential air flow to the roots.

When To:

The best time of the day to water your garden is early morning. Watering before the heat of the day has set in reduces the amount of moisture lost to evaporation and gives the plants the water they need to make it through the day. If the garden is looking dry, give it a light watering in the evening, after the sun has gone down. You do not want to soak your garden in the evening; sitting water encourages mold and disease. If you have to water during the heat of the day, you really want to be sure to target the roots and avoid getting water on flowers and foliage.

Additional Tips:

Never let your flowers get dry to the point of wilting. Wilted flowers are prone to disease.
Containers will need to be watered more often than in-ground plants.
Mulch, mulch, mulch!

Enjoy!

Tips for May

2012-04-24T19:37:00.002-07:00

Not many April showers around these parts...Hopefully that won't stop the May flowers!

When planning your spring garden, be sure to research the mature size of the plants you plan to include. This will ensure that each plant has enough space to form a solid foundation. The better the root system, the better your blooms!

When the plants in your veggie garden are wet, stay out! Walking through a wet garden spreads disease.

Recycle newspapers and grass clippings as mulch. Place the grass clippings over the newspaper to keep it from blowing away. Never use grass that has been chemically treated.

Mulch not only enhances the look of your landscape, it helps reduce weeds, control soil temperature, and retain moisture.

Plant Gladiolus bulbs in late May.

Wait until your daffodils are just about completely dead to cut them back. Cutting back too soon will result in less blooms next season.

Dandelions taking over your lawn? Harvest those greens!! They contain more vitamin A than carrots and spinach.

When you start purchasing annuals, look for plants that are short, bushy, and contain buds- not blooms. Tall, leggy plants that are already in bloom will have a shorter blooming season. Check for brown or yellow spots; greener plants are healthier plants.

Enjoy!

2012-04-15T19:41:00.001-07:00

Hi Everyone! It's been a little minute since I last posted. I have been toiling away the winter in a legal class that took me away....but I'm back, just in time for Spring!

A Facebooker recently asked about planting seeds. When planting seeds, the most important thing to do is carefully read the seed packet instructions. Keep the seed packets until the plants have grown. The seed packet will instruct you on such things as: whether the seeds need to be started in containers or if they can be sown directly into the ground, when to plant (some seeds like to go into the ground when it's cold and others need to wait until after all danger of frost has passed), and where to plant (a sunny location vs. a shady location).

Next, prepare your soil. In order to thrive, seeds require optimal nutrients. You will need to work in plenty of compost, which you can purchase at any garden center for around $5-$7/bag. You will need to work the soil approximately a foot deep. The soil should be loose, slightly crumbly, and moist. After you've worked in the compost, rake smooth.

Follow the packet instructions for planting. Generally, the larger the seed, the deeper it will need to be planted. Some smaller seeds will not be sown into the soil; they will be scattered on top. Water gently and thoroughly. The soil needs to be kept moist until seedlings spring up. NEVER let the soil dry out! Once the seedlings are about an inch high, you may want to thin them out. Seeds are cheap, so don't feel bad about pulling some up. Doing so will help ensure that you have enough space for the others to grow and fully bloom.

After your seedlings have developed three sets of true leaves, you will want to pinch them back. Just snip off the top of the plant with your fingernails. Pinching the plants allows them to bush out and develop stronger root systems. As always, consult the seed packet for recommendations. After your seedling are a couple inches tall, feel free to mulch which will help keep the soil moist.

Enjoy!

2012-02-13T17:50:00.000-08:00

Happy Valentine's Day!

Selecting Roses

Start by looking at the buds; all rose buds are not created equally. Look for buds that are unraveling at the tip. Roses generally open by unfurling a petal at a time in a spiral pattern. Next, gently squeeze the bud; soft buds have been kept in the cooler too long, and hard buds or "bullets" were cut too early and will not open. So, you want to look for firm buds that are beginning to open at the tip.

Caring for Cut Roses

Leave at least three leaves on each stem. These will help provide nourishment to the bloom.
Cut off any leaves that will be below your vase's water level. Leaves below the water will rot and shorten the life of your blooms.
Next, pour hot water into a bowl (as hot as your hands can stand), add a couple drops of bleach and floral preservative.
Place the rose stems in the hot water solution, being sure the buds do not touch the water. Let the roses sit in the solution for just a couple minutes.
Remove the roses from the solution one at a time, and trim the ends on the diagonal 1/4 inch using clean, sharp scissors.
Put the roses back into the solution until the temperature reaches lukewarm, appx. 1 hour.
Now, you can put your beautiful new roses into your vase. Start with a clean vase. Fill your vase with warm water, a few drops of bleach, and flower preservatives. Refrigerate your flowers for about 2 hours before putting them out.
When the water clouds, remove the roses, replace the old water with fresh hot water and a couple drops of bleach. Return the roses to the vase immediately.
When your roses start wilting, you can trim off about an 1/8 inch of the stem end (always on a diagonal), put the roses into a bowl of hot water for about an hour, and return them to the vase.

Using clean scissors and containers is very important if you want to extend the life of your blooms. Unclean implements will spread bacteria to your flowers. Use hot water and bleach to kill that nasty bacteria; do not just rinse.

Ants In My Plants

2012-02-11T08:25:00.000-08:00

You see them marching to their little hills, those annoying little ants. You're thinking to yourself, "Put ant spray on the list." But wait...before you decimate that anthill, read this blog!

Ants in your garden can be both beneficial and detrimental. The good news about ants in your garden is that they are predators; they will eat the eggs of many other insect species. They are also prey, and are a food source for birds. lizards, and toads which are all beneficial for your garden. Their tunnels aerate the soil, allowing water and nutrients to flow directly to plant roots. They store seeds in their tunnels, which encourages seed distribution. They are also nature's little composters; they remove dead plants and animals from the soil, which in turn are re-deposited as fertilizer. Some plants, such as peonies, may need ants to encourage flower opening (nobody is really sure if this is a myth or not). Acacia trees are actually protected by ants and will die without them.

Now the bad. Ants will protect the pests that will destroy your plants: mealybugs, aphids, and white flies.

Unless you find detrimental pests or plants that are dying because the ants are too close to their roots, you really shouldn't be worried about ants in your garden. If you notice they are out of control, before buying chemical pesticides, try spraying your plants with a 50/50 solution of apple cider vinegar and water. Ants do not like vinegar and it removes the scent trails that help them navigate their way around.

Happy Gardening!

Dream A Little Dream

2012-02-09T21:25:00.000-08:00

We've recently wrapped up a series on greenhouses and realize that while they are every gardener's dream, sometimes we must dream smaller. Cold frames provide many of the benefits of a greenhouse but on a smaller scale. Cold frames can be used as a storage space for overwintering less hardy plants, or a place to get a jump start on your seedlings.

Cold frames use the sun's heat so you need to place them in a sunny location, and they need to be butted up against an existing structure. The site must also have good drainage. If your plants are sitting in cold water every day they will die. If possible, try to pick an area that is slightly sloped. You may even want to build a slope.

There are several ways to build a cold frame. Things to keep in mind:

Do not to make it so wide that you cannot reach all the way to the back-3 to 4 feet is plenty wide.

Build the frame to fit the top windows, higher in the back than in the front.

Add weights to keep the windows from blowing open in storms. Use heavy duty hinges on the windows.

You will need props for the windows which will need to be opened when temps reach 45+ F.

On sunny days, you will need to open the windows so your plants don't bake, and on cold days you may want to cover the frame with blankets or burlap bags. Uncover when the sun comes back out.

How To Build A Cold Frame

Happy Gardening!

The Time Is Now

2012-02-08T22:57:00.000-08:00

If you plan on planting summer and fall blooming bulbs, it's almost time. It sounds strange, but spring blooming bulbs are planted in the fall, and summer/fall blooming bulbs are planted in the spring. If you think about germination, it makes sense. Our widget shows a mere 39 days until the official arrival of spring (yay!), so now is the time to start planning your summer garden.

Note: Not all bulbs are true bulbs; corms, rhizomes, and tuberous roots will all be referred to as bulbs. There are botanical differences, but, unless you are a scientist, the difference is negligible.

Most Popular Summer/Fall Flower Bulbs

Canna

*Rich, well-drained soil in an area that receives at least 6 hrs full sun

*Plant with only an inch of soil over the rhizomes; 18-24 inches apart

*When frost kills the foliage, dig up the rhizomes, dry for a couple days, and store

Dahlia

*Full sun (up to Zone 6) part shade for Zones 7+

*Rich, well-drained soil

*Requires ample watering

Daylilies

*Average soil; full-sun to part shade

*Rugged and extremely adaptable

*Generally does not do well when planted near trees

Gladiolus

*Stagger out the planting of these bulbs. Plant a batch and wait a week to plant another. This will provide a continuous bloom.

*Corms should be planted in well-drained soil, 4-6 inches deep, 6-8 inches apart.

Lily

*Requires well-drained, moist soil and full-sun

*Most bulbs will require 4-5 inches of soil covering; space 6-10 inches apart

As we get closer to spring and the threat of frost has lifted, we will follow-up with how to plant and maintain a summer bulb garden.

February To-Do's

2012-02-07T19:42:00.000-08:00

Start ordering seeds now to take advantage of early discounts and good selections.

Start slow-growers indoors. Celery, leeks, and onions need several months before they are ready to be transplanted outdoors. You can also start small-seeded flowers, such as petunias and begonias. Keep the seeds warm to encourage development of a strong root system.

If you are forcing bulbs indoors, now is a good time to check them out. If the tips have started and there's a couple inches of growth, move them to a cool, bright room. For more on forcing bulbs, check out our post, "Baby It's Cold Outside."

You can start forcing spring bloomers forsythia, dogwood, and crabapple by cutting the branches and putting them in warm water. Make long slanted cuts when collecting branches. Re-cut the stems to increase water absorption , and change the water every four days. Give them about 3 weeks to bloom.

Feed your houseplants. Dilute the strength by half. Houseplants will tend to become leggy this time of year, continue to pinch back new growth

Now is a good time to prune deciduous trees and shrubs.

Greenhouses Pt. 3...Let It Grow!

2012-02-05T15:10:00.000-08:00

The greenhouse is set up and ready to go, now it's time to get our grow on.
I would venture a guess that if you live in a particularly cold climate, you will be using your greenhouse to get an early start on your spring plants or finishing up the winter bloomers. If you live where the mercury doesn't dip below 55F. you should be able to grow year round. However, you will need to remember that many plants hate the greenhouse in the summer months. If you are planning to grow year round, you MUST do your research regarding ventilation. It is also important that you choose the correct plant for your growing needs; different varieties of the same basic plant will generally have different preferences. In other words, if you want to grow tomatoes, certain varieties of tomato plants prefer cooler/warmer temps than other varieties.

Another thing to remember when greenhouse gardening is that you will have to self-pollinate; there are no bees in the greenhouse to do the job.

What to grow?

Carrots, beets, turnips and other root crops do well in the greenhouse. They tend to be later bloomers and do well in cooler temps. You could plant these under your shelves, either in the ground or in boxes/planters. Lettuce loves cooler temps and has a shallow root system, so it's another crop that you can put under your staging area. Follow seed packet instructions when planting.

Tomatoes, peas, cucumbers, and pole beans need to be in tub-type containers. They will also need to be supported because they are vines. Trellises or tomato cones will look nice, but you could also use a dowel or a metal coat hanger bent into some sort of cool, functional shape.

Other crops:

Squash
Melons
Eggplant
Peppers
Corn
Spinach
Swiss Chard
Green Onions

And, of course, flowers!

Herbs make great bug repellent; plant them everywhere. Dill, fennel, parsley, basil and thyme love the greenhouse. In addition, you can also add onions and garlic to a jar of water, let stand a week, and spray plants. Greenhouses are very buggy places...You've been warned.

Housekeeping

Let's finish this series with some basic greenhouse rules. Every type of greenhouse will need maintenance. Just like different plants need different maintenance, so do greenhouses. One thing that applies to every greenhouse is that it must be disinfected on a regular basis. Use a scrub brush and a solution of diluted bleach to clean every area of the greenhouse, being sure not to get any on the plants. Rinse thoroughly with clean water. Before you start, make sure you open the vents or door so you don't poison yourself. In between bleach cleanings, spray the corners and walls with the hose nozzle on the jet setting; this will help control spider mites and white flies.

One more thing, be sure to clean your produce thoroughly before bringing it indoors. I warned you about the bugs and I'm sure you don't want to bring any leggy "hitchhikers" into your home.

Check out our other posts for great tips and info. If you plan to grow tomatoes, pay particular attention to our post regarding blight. Happy gardening!

Greenhouses 101 Part 2: Set-Up

2012-02-02T17:45:00.000-08:00

Ok, you've done your research and found a greenhouse to suit your needs, now what?

First, you are going to need a work area that is suitable for several purposes; this is the area where you will propagate, overwinter, rest, re-pot, and groom your plants. You can choose tables or benches for your work area, just make sure it will serve your purposes.Your work surface should be at waist height Next, you will want to invest in some shelves for a staging area, and hooks for hanging baskets (if your structure will support them). Try to get some type of slatted or woven-top shelving which will allow for air circulation and drainage. Don't forget about some flooring; pavers and pebbles work well and help with drainage.

Starting Seedlings

Setting up flats is a great way to start seedlings. The flats will need to be set up off the ground in a relatively sunny area of your greenhouse. Seedlings need at least 6 hrs of daily sunlight. Start with some good soil mix, fill the flat, and plant the seeds according to the packet directions. Spread out your plantings to once every two weeks (for edible plants). This will help ensure a continuous harvest. Water lightly; you don't want the seed floating to the top. Keep the soil damp, not soggy. If your soil starts to turn green, you need to water less. If you plan to keep the plants in the greenhouse, as they start to mature, they will need to be fed. Certain plants, such as tomatoes and cucumbers need to be fed every watering. Do a little research before planting. A good rule to remember, under-feeding is preferable to over-feeding.

When To Start Seedlings

First, you must find out in which Zone you live.

Generally, you can start your flower seeds about 8 weeks prior to the last frost in your Zone. Vegetable seeds generally need a longer germination time. For more info, check out http://www.ehow.com/info_8037112_start-vegetable-plants-greenhouse.html

Next: Greenhouse-friendly plants

"Mary, Mary Quite Contrary, How Does Your Garden Grow?"

2012-01-29T17:44:00.000-08:00

A friend who is interested in setting up a greenhouse has asked for tips and suggestions, so this blog will be Part I of the Greenhouse Trilogy...A greenhouse is a gardener's fantasy; a place where they can play mad scientist and control the climate. Imagine being able to grow anything, anywhere, anytime!

Greenhouses 101

Before Building

While the size and shape of a greenhouse is important, the material it is built of is the most important consideration. The material you choose will determine the cost, durability, and upkeep of your greenhouse. Before building, check with your local building inspector. They should be able to advise you on the best materials for your geographical region, as well as any necessary building permits.

Depending on the type and size of greenhouse you plan to build, you will need some accessories for proper climate control. Is your greenhouse small enough to be watered by hand or will you need equipment? You may need humidifiers, heaters, and fans. Your lighting needs will be determined by the location of your greenhouse. Ideally, you should position your greenhouse where it will receive the most sunlight, but not where it will get hot enough to kill your plants.

If you plan to make your greenhouse a year-round venture, you must make sure that you are in close proximity to an electrical supply, not extension cords. You also need a continuous water supply, hoses will freeze.

The flooring needs to have excellent drainage. This may require some extra excavation and materials. You will also want to keep the floor as clean as possible.

Do your research. Upgrades are costly, so plan wisely!!

Next: Set-Up

Fight The Blight...

2012-01-29T12:42:00.000-08:00

Have you ever grown tomatoes that end up looking like this?

Well, my friend, you may have had blight.

Either early or late, blight is a highly contagious fungus; a strain of which caused the Irish potato famine. Spores are often present in soil, and it is believed that commercially-grown garden center plants have spread the fungus to our own backyards. Part of the problem is that big-box retailers do not have employees who are trained to spot plant diseases and pathogens.

What You Should Know

Train yourself to spot unhealthy plants.

Signs of blight include:

- white, powdery spores

- large, olive-green or brown lesions on the leaves

- brown or open lesions on stems

**A single open lesion on one plant can produce hundreds of thousands of contagious spores. Fungicides can help protect unaffected plants, but nothing can cure blight once it breaks out except, perhaps, a hot, sunny day.**

What To Do With An Infected Plant

Pull the plant, seal it in a Ziplock style bag, and throw it away or burn it. Be careful! Remember, you do not want spores flying all over the place. Do not compost the plant, unless you want all your plants to become infected.

How To Help Prevent Blight

When purchasing plants, select wilt and nematode resistant varieties.

Choose different varieties that mature at different times. A good thing to know is that the earlier the plant matures, the more susceptible it is to early blight.

Do not plant tomatoes and potatoes close together.

Rotate your planting spot on a yearly basis.

When watering, only water at the plant's base and do it early in the day so that any moisture that does get on the plant will be quickly dried by the sun.

Use a staking system. Staking encourages air movement, reducing moisture on the foliage and helps prevent root rot.

Mulch

Remove the bottom branches, especially if they touch the ground. Remember, the spores are in the soil. Cut them with a pair of scissors or garden shears. Trim right at the plant's stem.

Monitor the lower leaves for early blight and the top foliage for late blight. Late blight is fast and aggressive.

Remove all plant debris from the garden in the fall. Blight can overwinter on plant tissue.

Make sure to thoroughly wash your hands and/or gloves after touching infected plants.

Hopefully, with these tips, your next batch of tomatoes will be healthy, nutritious, and above all, delicious!

No Big Mystery...

2012-01-28T20:04:00.000-08:00

In the last few years we have heard about heirloom vegetables, but what do we really know about them other than that they came from old seeds? Are there advantages to planting heirloom vs. commercial seeds and plants?

First of all, what the heck are heirloom plants? Just like heirloom jewelry, heirloom plants/seeds are passed down from generation to generation in a family. Each variety is genetically unique and has developed a resistance to pests and diseases native to their environment. Heirloom plants are sometimes bred into modern crops to improve their resistance; without heirlooms, food production is at risk.

The development of modern hybrid seeds has increased crop sizes and yields, but the crops have no flavor. Have you seen the tomatoes in the grocery store? Enough said. Hybrid crops are meant to be grown quickly and able to withstand shipping. Heirloom crops are meant to be home-grown and have that wonderful flavor that only home-grown veggies have.

Heirloom seeds/plants are generally more reliable than hybrids, as long as they are suited to your soil conditions. Heirloom crops are open-pollinated, meaning that you can save your own seeds and re-plant year after year, allowing you to develop a locally-adapted strain. This will also save you money since you don't have to buy new seeds every season. Heirlooms also provide a continuous harvest since, unlike hybrid seeds, they are not genetically programmed to all grow at the same rate. This give you great freedom to extend your growing season.

Finally, when you grow heirloom seeds, you are preserving history. Many heirloom varieties are over 100 years old. Every heirloom seed/plant has a story behind it and can be handed down for generations to come. Heirloom seeds just may be one of your family's finest, um, heirlooms!

"Cultivators of the earth are the most valuable citizens. They are the most vigorous, the most independent, the most virtuous, and they are tied to their country and wedded to its liberty and interests by the most lasting bands."-Thomas Jefferson

Happy Birthday To You...

2012-01-26T11:21:00.000-08:00

176 years ago today, Michigan was admitted as the United State's 26th state. Happy Birthday to the state that is my home! Today's blog is all about Michigan.

"If you seek a pleasant peninsula, look about you."

Ironton Ferry

Fortune 500 Michigan Based Companies
General Motors
Ford Motor Co,
Dow Chemical
Chrysler Group

Whirlpool
Kellog

Apple Blossom
Michigan's State Flow

Dwarf Lake Iris
Michigan's State Wildlower

Shop for Michigan Products:
http://michigan-made.com/shop/

http://www.michigania.com/

http://www.spoon.com/

Fun Fact: Michigan's shoreline is 3,288 miles long with 1,056 miles being inland shorelines

View of Lake Charlevoix from the top of Avalanche Overlook, Boyne City

Michigan is home to 53 award-winning wineries,

http://www.bowersharbor.com

awesome botanical gardens,

www.meijergardens.org

and orchards and farmers' markets abound!

Top 10 Lists...Pt. 4 Plants for Cheap People

2012-01-24T20:07:00.000-08:00

I love a bargain. If you love a lot of bang for your buck, these plants are right up your alley. You can find these flats of these plants at your local garden center for a fair enough price (even less at your local farmer's market) that you won't feel bad about pitching them at the end of the season.

Top 10 Sun Plants For Cheap People

Ageratum

Begonia

Celosia

Marigold

Nicotiana

Petunia

Portaluca

Verbena

Vinca

Zinnia

Top 10 Lists...Pt. 3 Houseplants For Lazy People

2012-01-23T05:37:00.000-08:00

Do you constantly forget to water your plants? Are you clueless about fertilizer?
Well then, these plants were created for you.

Top 10 Houseplants For Lazy People

Cast Iron

Chinese Evergreen

Croton

Dieffenbachia

Dracaena

Fiddle Leaf Fig

Jade

Peperomia

Norfolk Island Pine

Rubber Tree

Top 10 Lists...Pt. 2

2012-01-22T09:29:00.000-08:00

Got Bare Spots? Nothing can make your garden or landscape look worse than ugly bare spots. Fortunately, there are many varieties of ground cover to turn those eyesores into beauties. Ground covers are also excellent for planting on slopes and for erosion control.

Top 10 Ground Covers

English Ivy

Mazus

Lysimachia

Sweet Potato Vine

Ajuga

Ceratostigma

Setcreasea

Sedum

Vinca Major

Lamium

Top 10 Lists...Pt. 1

2012-01-21T20:49:00.000-08:00

Top 10 Plants For Forgetful People

These plants are extremely forgiving and drought tolerant

Begonia-Bronze Mix

Portaluca

Euphorbia-Breathless Varieties

Melampodium

Vinca-Periwinkle Varieties

Scaevola

Penta

Lantana

Helenium

Purslane

Baby It's Cold Outside...

2012-01-19T06:28:00.000-08:00

Brrrr...17 degrees here in Mid-Michigan today...Are you as ready as I am for Spring? Unfortunately, we still have a few months to go, but there is a way to have a little bit of springtime in the winter.
Forcing bulbs is a great way to bring gardening indoors during these bone-chilling months.

How To Force Bulbs

First, select top-rate large bulbs. Make sure the bulbs do not already have shoots and that they are not soft. High-quality bulbs are necessary because the bulbs contain the food energy for the flowers. Some bulbs such as, narcissus, crocus, and hyacinth can be forced in water, but you will need to discard them after they have finished their bloom cycle. If you would like to transfer those bulbs outside in the spring, then opt to force them in pots. Next, choose your pot; plastic or clay, whichever is your preference. Scrub all pots clean, and if you are using clay pots, soak them in water overnight before filling. Bulbs need a lot of moisture and excellent drainage. A soil mix of equal parts peat moss, potting soil, sand, and vermiculite/perlite works best. Mix thoroughly and add enough water to thoroughly moisten. Then, place some broken crockery or pebbles over the pot's drainage hole. Fill the pot half-full with soil mix. Continue adding soil until there is enough in the pot that the bulb tops reach the rim of the pot.

Bulbs must be planted with the top (pointed end) up. Plant them as close together as possible without having them touch. If your bulb has a flat side, plant that side towards the outside of the pot. The first leaves will form a nice border around the edge of the pot. Add enough soil to fill the pot and water thoroughly.

Now comes the most important part of the process. In order to force bulbs, you must trick them into thinking that they have sat through their winter dormancy period. The pots must be placed in cold storage. A basement, cellar, or refrigerator will do the trick. Wherever you store them, they must be kept in the dark. If necessary, cover them with other pots or black plastic garbage bags. Keep the bulbs moist during this time period. Early bloomers, like crocus, daffodil, and snowdrops, require 12 weeks of cold storage, while late bloomers, like tulips, require 16 weeks. When you see shoots that are 2-3 inches above the rim and fine white roots emerging from the drainage hole of the pot, you are ready to take the pot out of cold storage.

The plants will now need to be kept in a cool environment with indirect sunlight. Do not let the plants dry out. Feed weekly with half-strength houseplant fertilizer. Turning the pots daily will keep the stems strong and straight. In a couple weeks, your plants should be strong enough to be moved to a bright, sunny location. Keep in mind that these types of flowers do not like hot temperatures. Once the flowers open, it's time to move them back to indirect sunlight. This will prolong bloom time. After the plant has finished it's flowering cycle, cut the stems down. Allow the foliage to die back by itself. Store the pots in a cool, dry place until summer or early fall when the bulbs can be transplanted outdoors. Do not attempt to force these same bulbs again; their production will be weak.

I See, You See, We See....A Teepee??

2012-01-18T11:09:00.000-08:00

Today we have another gardening project for the kids. Of course, you will have to build the structure, but they can plant and care for the seeds, as well as have all the fun inside when it is fully grown

Building A Garden Teepee

Supplies:

pole bean seeds (soak in water overnight before planting)
3-6 Six foot long bamboo stakes (you can purchase these at Lowe's)
2 feet of strong twine
straw
a 6 sq. ft planting area

You can begin this project approximately 2-3 weeks after the final frost.

Begin by placing the stakes into the ground in a circle pattern. Place the stakes about 10 inches from the planting area edge, and be sure to leave a 2 feet wide space between two of the stakes; this will be the entrance into the teepee.

Gather the tops of the stakes, wrap and tie with the twine.

Plant the bean seeds according to the packet directions in a circle around the outside base of the teepee.

Thoroughly water the seeds.

Place a 2-3 inch layer of straw inside the teepee . This will make a nice floor for the teepee, and will help control weeds.

As the beans grow, manipulate and tie them around the bamboo stakes, In 6-8 weeks, they will cover the structure, and you will have your very own living teepee.

"Teach Your Children Well..." More Kid-Friendly Gardening Projects

2012-01-17T09:10:00.000-08:00

Some of my best childhood memories involve dirt. I don't know what it is, but kids love dirt! Here are some great dirty-for-a-purpose projects:

How To Make Seed Paper

Supplies:
several cardboard toilet paper tubes
a marker
white school glue
scissors
toilet paper
seeds-big, quick to germinate seeds such as beans, sunflowers, dwarf nasturtiums, and zinnia

Start by cutting toilet paper into strips. It works best if you just cut the paper up the middle into 12 inch strips.
Use the marker to mark the spots where you want to place your seeds-follow the guidelines for spacing on the seed packet.
Next, place a dot of glue on each spot that you marked on the paper.
Spread out your seeds on a small plate, and using your fingers or a pair of tweezers, place a seed on each glue dot. You can use the same seeds on each dot, or you can mix the seeds. Just be sure that the seedlings have the same sun and water requirements. In other words, don't mix seeds that require full-sun with those that require part-shade.
Once the paper is dry, you can store it by rolling it back onto an empty tube. Roll it so that the seeds are on the inside.
If you are ready to plant, lay the seed paper across the soil. It may need to be weighed down on the ends to keep it from blowing away. A small rock on each end should do the trick. Then cover with soil or compost--follow the seed packet directions for the depth of soil required.
Water thoroughly and often
Enjoy your flowers

I have to say it, toads freak me out! However, they are very beneficial to our gardens since they eat many of the insects that are known to damage plants.

Build A Toad House

Supplies:

4 inch clay pot-Feel free to decorate your pot, but, remember, half of it will be in the ground.

trowel

Choose a shady spot for the pot. Dig a couple inches deep, making the hole a bit larger than the pot. Place the pot on its side and bury it about halfway. Create a nice bed in the pot by placing moist leaves inside. Moisten the entire area to "cement" the pot into place. Toads drink through their skin, so place a small dish of water nearby.

Next: How To Build A Bean Teepee

The Worms Crawl In, The Worms Crawl Out...

2012-01-16T12:37:00.000-08:00

The other day I was thinking about how those of us who garden do something for the greater good every time we put a plant into the ground. Plants not only provide food and shelter for every living thing, they improve our air quality, and beautify our living space. My love for gardening was passed down from my grandmother, and I am, hopefully, passing that on to my little girl. It is important for us as adults to act as ambassadors of gardening to future generations. Nothing in the world will make your child want to learn more about gardening than a worm bin; even if it is for the eww factor alone, they will love it!

Vermiculture, otherwise known as worm composting, allows you to rapidly compost your family's food waste. Worm bins provide high quality compost, are self-contained, and odorless.

Worms prefer the temperature to be between 50-80 degrees F. So, if you live in the North like I do, your worm bin will need to be stored inside until mid-Spring.

How To Build A Worm Bin

**Many people prefer to build wooden worm bins, which is acceptable if you have the space for it. Just be sure that you do not use treated wood.

stackable bins

Container

2 rubber bins-not clear in color--worms do not like the light--clean your bin thoroughly and then fill with clean water and let stand for at least one day

Drill out 10-20 1/8 inch holes on the lid, 10-20 (total) on the sides, and 4-8 in the bottom of the bin that you will be using for the worms (top bin in the picture). This will be your aerated worm bin.

Place supports in the bottom bin. Styrofoam works fine. You just need to be able to keep the top bin from settling into the bottom bin. This will be your drainage reservoir.

Place the aerated bin inside the reservoir bin.

Fill

Now you need to fill the top bin with shredded cardboard and newspaper. Just put in a nice thick layer and cover with a thin layer of dirt. Next, add a layer of food waste. Then, sprinkle down with water until the top layer of the bedding is thoroughly moistened. Add one more layer of bedding and moisten thoroughly.

Now, you may be ready to add the worms, and you can, but it is really more beneficial to let the bin sit and rot for a couple weeks before adding the worms. You will need to purchase composting worms, which you can find online; you cannot use the worms from your yard.

If your bin will be outside, you need to make sure that the worms stay contained within the bin. Composting worms are a non-native species and can decimate hardwood forests. Keeping them fed and properly moist will help prevent them from trying to escape.

Food Scraps

The best food scraps for your worm bin are:

fruits and vegetables
tea bags
coffee grounds
eggshells

Use citrus, onion, spicy and starchy food scraps in moderation.

DO NOT USE meats, oily foods, and dairy scraps...A small amount of salad dressing on some lettuce that you're throwing into the bin is fine.

The smaller the food particles, the faster the worms will turn it into compost.

Maintenance

Water every other day and add food scraps at least once a week. Add more bedding as needed.

Do not remove any other creepy-crawlies that you may find in your bin, except centipedes. Your worm bin is an ecosystem and all those creepy-crawlies are helpers. Centipedes, on the other hand, are massive carnivores and will eat up all your worms.

Harvesting

The easiest way to harvest is to put on rubber gloves, move any uncomposted materials aside, pull out a clump of compost, and sit it on some plastic. Scrape the compost off in layers, allowing the worms time to move towards the center of the clump. Replace the bedding, then replace the worms.

This is such an easy project that presents numerous opportunities to teach children about ecosystems and the environment, as well as fostering a life-long love of gardening.

"I Think I Shall Never See A Thing As Lovely As A Tree"

2012-01-15T18:03:00.000-08:00

So now that you have your list of fast-growing trees, let's discuss how to plant and care for them.

For Your Consideration

Before planting, you need to think about where you want to place your trees. Trees need to be planted at least 10-15 feet away from your foundation and at least 5 feet from surfaces, such as driveways and sidewalks. Look above and look below-are their utility lines? Always be sure to call Miss Dig before beginning any project that involves excavation. If you plan on mixing trees remember, evergreens in back, then deciduous trees (those that lose their leaves), shrubs, and flowers in front. Layering trees this way mimics a natural wood line

Planting and Backfilling
You want to give your trees a healthy start by avoiding the stress of heat, so plant in the spring or fall. The hole where you will be placing your new tree should be 2x as wide as the diameter of the rootball and 2x more shallow than the root ball’s depth .If your soil is of poor quality, make the hole the same depth but 3-5x wider than the rootball. Uncurl any roots and straighten them so that they grow outward from the trunk. If the roots are left to curl, they will cut into the trunk as your tree grows. When backfilling the hole, be sure to leave the rootball 1/2-1 inch above the soil surface. If soil covers the the top of the rootball, it could lead to trunk rot. Firmly pack down the soil as you backfill. Do this at various intervals; do not wait to do this until the end or else your tree is going to topple over.

When backfilling, you want to create a berm of loose soil around the outer edge of the planting hole. This helps retain and direct water to the root ball. You will need to give your new tree approximately 15 gallons of water after the initial planting. Afterwards, you should check the tree at least once a week. You can then monitor and adjust your watering schedule according to the needs of the tree.

Staking
Next, you will need to stake down your trees if they are unable to stand on their own. Be sure to use soft, pliable tree ties. Never use wire as it will damage the tree's trunk. Be sure to place the supports as low on the trunk as possible. Check the stakes on a regular basis to make sure they are not damaging the trunk. Stakes should be ready for removal after 6-12 months.

Mulching
Finally, you will need to mulch. Cover the entire planting area with a 3-4 inch layer, making sure to keep the mulch at least 2 inches away from the trunk.