Tallah Farms

How to grow green beans

noreply@blogger.com (United Farmers) — Fri, 13 Apr 2012 12:43:00 +0000

Green Beans are the second most commonly grown vegetables after tomatoes. They are very easy to grow. There are many varieties to choose from. You can grow pole beans or bush beans. Pole usually take longer to grow and you'll need a trellis for them to climb. Check your seed packet for sowing and harvesting times.

You can grow also grow them in containers.

Green Beans are very prolific and you can continue to harvest them throughout the season. Just make sure you keep picking them in order for them to continue producing. You can also do succession plantings for a continuous harvest.

Planting

After all danger of frost is gone, plant seeds 1 1/2 inches deep 3-4 inches apart in 24" rows.
Green Beans are not cold tolerant and need warm soil of 65 degrees or better. They grow best in full sun with well watered soil.

Harvesting

There are several factors to consider when harvesting green beans. You'll get the best flavor and texture if you pick you beans at the right time.
You should usually try and harvest your beans when the plants are dry. Let the morning dew evaporate before harvesting.

The bean pods do not need to reach a certain length before harvesting them.
Some of the pods will be long and thin, others will be short and fat. The size variance will not affect the flavor of the green bean. The more important factor is texture.
The green bean pods should be firm, crisp, and show no visible bulges. A bulge will indicate that the green bean is over-ripe. It will still taste good but might have a limp texture. A perfectly ripe green bean will make a snapping noise when broken into pieces. This is why some folks call green beans "snap beans".

As the plants will continue to produce green beans over a long period of time, great care should be taken to not damage the plant when harvesting green beans. Use one hand to hold the stem and use your other hand to pick the bean. The blossom end of the stem will usually still be attached to the bean after you pick it. If you don't hold the stem, you risk breaking off other blossoms or branches or yanking the whole plant out of the ground by the roots. Take care of your green bean plants and they will take care of you.

After harvesting green beans, store them on the kitchen counter with the stems on. Once you remove the stems, keep them in the refrigerator.

The stems usually snap off easily.
If you want to wait more than a few days before eating your freshly picked beans, blanch them in boiling water for 3 minutes. Then plunge the beans into ice water for 3 minutes. This will help the beans retain their bright, green color. Place the cooled beans in an air tight bag and put them in the freezer. They will keep for up to 1 year.

When the season is over, pull up the plants and toss them in your compost bin.

Tag: string beans, green beans, how to grow green beans, bush beans, kentucky wonder beans, pole beans, planting beans, harvesting beans, wax beans, freezing beans, canning beans

How to grow carrots

noreply@blogger.com (Tallah) — Wed, 11 Apr 2012 12:21:00 +0000

Carrots can be sown outside in soil from around the middle of March until the end of June or July. Carrots will germinate in 2 to 3 weeks and take between 2 to 4 months to mature fully, depending on the variety chosen. Check your seed packet for information on growing length of times and preferred sowing times.

Carrots need full sun. Chose a sunny spot to plant them in.

Carrots love loose, loamy and sandy soil. So, before sowing the carrots, ensure the ground has been well dug over and is free of weeds and stones. If the ground is a bit hard or you have heavy clay soil, dig in some sand or peat into the soil to lighten the soil up, but not fresh compost or manure. In fact, carrots should not be grown on a patch which has been manured during the previous year.

It helps to use row markers and some twine to mark out the line along which you will grow your carrots.

Carrot seeds are very small and it's easy to sow to many. One way to avoid this is to mix the seeds with sand before sowing. Another tip is to mix the seed with radishes. The radishes will grow first and when you harvest the radishes this helps to thin the carrot seedlings.

Sprinkle the seeds along the line about every 1 1/2 to 2 inches. And the make the rows 6-8 inches apart. (Once the seedlings are large enough to handle the can be thinned out.)

Cover the seeds with about a 1/2 inch of soil. Do not plant them too deeply. Planting them too deep will prevent them from growing.

Water them generously. Keep the carrots well watered during dry hot weather.

Very gently cover the seeds with a tiny bit of soil. The seeds barely need 1/2 inch of soil above them to germinate, and the most frequent reason for a crop to fail to emerge is the seeds being planted too deeply.

Water generously.

When the time comes to harvest the carrots, use a garden fork to loosen the ground around the carrots before pulling.

Carrots can also be grown in containers.

Tag: carrots, farming, hobby farm, chickens carrot soffle, carrot cake, carrot top, carrot seeds, planting carrots, all about carrots, farming carrots, growing carrots, harvesting carrots, eating carrots, cooking carrots, orange carrots, organic carrots, natural carrots, carrot muffins, shredded carrots

FAQ: Raising Backyard Chickens

noreply@blogger.com (United Farmers) — Fri, 30 Mar 2012 00:04:00 +0000

Q: Do you need a Rooster to have eggs?

A: No. Not at all. All you need is a hen. You need a Rooster however to fertilize the egg for baby chicks.

Q. How long does it take before a hen starts laying egss?

A: When baby chick reach the age of 4-6 months old they then will start laying eggs.

Q. What’s the difference between a pullet and a hen?

A. A pullet is a female chick under the age of 1 year old. A Hen is a female chicken 1 year or older.

Q. What’s the difference between a Rooster and a Cockeral?

A. A Rooster is a male chicken 1 year or older and a cockerel is a male chicken under the age of 1 year.

Q. Do chickens really come home to roost?

A. Yes. If you have a chicken coop or pen, you can leave the door open and when the sun starts to go down, chickens will own there own, go back to their pen or coop. They’ll climb up on their roost for safety and go to sleep.

Q. When can my baby chicks go outside?

A. When their feathers grow in fully.

Q. How many eggs can a Hen lay?

A. A Hen can lay 1-2 eggs a day. They lay more in the spring and summer?

Q. What is a broody hen?

A. A broody hen is a hen who is trying to hatch out eggs by sitting on them all day and all night, only taking breaks once a day to eat, drink, and go poop.

Q. How long does it take to hatch an egg?

A. About 21 days.

Q. Why are some eggs brown, some white or even blue or green?

A. Different breeds of chickens lay various hues of eggs.

Q. Does it hurt when a Hen lays an egg?

A. I don’t know. I never laid an egg before. LOL

chickens, pullets, hens, roosters, backyard chickens, chicken coop, hens, hen house, hen barn, chooks, chook house, baby chicks, raising chickens, fried chicken, chicken eggs, nesting boxes, nesting, chick, poultry, poultry barn, poultry raising

How to grow summer squash

noreply@blogger.com (United Farmers) — Wed, 28 Mar 2012 19:10:00 +0000

Summer squash does everything but plant itself! If you're looking for a vegetable that's easy to grow and produces huge yields, you can't beat summer squash. Anyone who has grown zucchini can tell you how prolific these plants can be.

Summer squash is really easy to grow just keep in mind that it needs full sun, warm temperatures, fertile soil, and steady moisture. Almost any friable, well-drained soil in a bed that receives full sun will suffice, but for the best production a little preparation is required. Work in plenty of organic matter (compost, well-rotted manure) to loosen the soil, help the soil conserve moisture, and provide an abundance of nutrients the plants will need throughout the season. A soil pH of 5.5-7.5 is satisfactory with 6.0-6.7 being preferred. Once you supply these requirements and plant the seeds, you basically need only wait until harvest usually about 7 weeks later.

Summer squash is also easy to grow in containers. So, even if you have limited garden space, you can grow squash (particularly the bush varieties) on your patio or deck. A 5-gallon or larger pot can contain one or two zucchini plants?and the production will be phenomenal!

SEEDS OR PLANTS?

Seeds are the way to go. Plan for one plant per person in your family, tops. Any more and you'll be up to your elbows in squash come midsummer! Direct sowing is preferred to transplanting seedlings. Like most cucurbits, squash plants can't tolerate having their roots disturbed. Most summer squash varieties are ready to harvest in 50 days, give or take a few days.

Because they mature quickly and require warm weather, you can plant them following early spring crops like peas, lettuce, or spinach. Direct sowings any time from spring (after all danger of frost is past) to midsummer works well with most summer squash varieties. In fact, waiting to plant a few seeds in midsummer will help avoid problems from vine borers and other pests and diseases common earlier in the season.

Sow the seeds one-inch deep, spacing the plantings about 18 to 30 inches apart in the bed, depending on the variety. Follow seed packet instructions. Allow plenty of growing space for vining types. Where space is limited, grow only the bush varieties.

If you have a short season or want the earliest possible crop, start a few seedlings indoors, preferably in peat pots, two weeks before the last frost in your area. When setting out the plants, be extra cautious not to disturb the roots when transplanting them.
CULTIVATION

Here are three cultivation tips to keep in mind for prime summer squash. Plant in a warm soil. If the soil is below 60 degrees F., summer squash seeds are more likely to rot in the ground before sprouting. The ideal soil temperature for germination is 70-90 degrees F. Seeds will sprout in 6 to 12 days. Provide plenty of nutrients. Summer squashes are heavy feeders. If you incorporated organic matter into the soil prior to planting, there is no need to fertilize early in the season. However, when the plants begin to blossom and set fruit, a side dressing of balanced soluble fertilizer is beneficial.

Water deeply. A steady water supply is necessary for the best quality fruit.

Water deeply once a week, applying at least one inch of water. Shallow watering promotes shallow root development that is detrimental to yields. Don't judge the moisture content of the soil by the dryness of the surface, if the soil is dry four inches down, water. If the soil is moist at that depth, the plants will be fine. Wilting in scorching, mid-afternoon sun is normal for summer squash. They will recover when the sun goes down.
GROWING TIPS

To improve overall summer squash production, consider using the following three techniques.

Raised beds.
To get summer squash in the ground as early as possible in the spring, plant it in raised beds. Raised beds warm up faster and drain more readily than the surrounding ground. You should be able to get an earlier start.

MULCH.
While squash prefers full sun and warm soil, extreme heat and drought can stress the plants, reducing production. Mulch is essential to keep the soil around the roots moist and to regulate soil temperature. When the seedlings are two inches tall, apply a loose mulch of clean straw, hay, grass clippings, chopped leaves, shredded newspaper, or any mixture of these materials. As the plants mature, you can add more mulch to keep them happy.
Black plastic mulch is also recommended, especially to warm the soil in the spring.

HARVEST TIPS

Although summer squash can get quite large and still be edible (zucchini can become as large as a baseball bat if left on the vine too long), you're forfeiting quality and hindering subsequent yields if you allow it to get too big. Like most vegetables, summer squash is tender and tastiest when harvested young before seeds are fully developed. Harvest when the skin is still soft enough to be penetrated by a thumbnail. Pick zucchini when it's about 4 to 6 inches long. If you like stuffed zucchini, allow them to grow to 8 inches. Crooknecks and straightnecks are best 6 to 8 inches long. Patty pans should be harvested when 3 to 5 inches in diameter.

Here are two things to keep in mind when you harvest summer squash. Cut the fruits from the vine carefully. Using a paring knife or garden shears, cut the stem about an inch above the fruit. Don't try to twist or yank the squash as you could rip the skin or damage the plant.

Frequent harvesting increases yields. With all summer squash, regular picking will keep the plants in production all season long. Think of each plant as a squash assembly line. When the plants are going gangbusters in midsummer, you may have to harvest two or three times a week!
squash, zucchini, crooked neck squash, yellow squash, planting squash, cooking squash, how to peel squash, harvesting squash, winter squash

Chickens Photos

noreply@blogger.com (Tallah) — Wed, 11 Jan 2012 22:17:00 +0000

White

Orphintons, Rhode Island Reds, Barred Rocks

Our Horses Tamar and Islam

noreply@blogger.com (Tallah) — Fri, 06 Jan 2012 19:00:00 +0000

Growing Spinach in the fall and winter

noreply@blogger.com (LM) — Tue, 03 Jan 2012 16:06:00 +0000

We started this spinach in mid december

Sow: Sow seeds as early as 6 weeks before last frost or as soon as you can work the soil. Plant seeds 1/2 deep and about 2-3 inches apart in beds or rows. In areas with a longer cool weather, for a continuous harvest make successive plantings every 10-12 days. You can also start seeds indoors and transplant when about 2-3 inches in growth.

Care: Spinach grows best when growing in moist, nitrogen-rich soil. Spinach plants form a deep taproot; for best growth, loosen the soil at least 1 foot deep before planting.

Spinach does not perform well in hot climates. If you use a cold frame or heavyweight row covers, you can grow spinach all winter in many parts of the country. In colder regions, try planting in fall (October) and protecting the young plants through winter for a spring harvest. In regions where the soil doesn’t freeze, try planting spinach in February for a March harvest. I've had great success in the winter were I live (zone 7) growing spinach in our mini hoop-house.

Spinach seed doesn’t store well, so buy fresh seeds every year. Sow them ½ inch deep and 2 inches apart in beds or rows. If the weather isn’t extremely cold, seeds will germinate in 5 to 9 days. Spinach produces beautifully in cool fall conditions, but it’s tricky to persuade the seed to germinate in the hot conditions of late summer. Sow seed heavily, because the germination rate drops to about 50 percent in warm weather, and water the seed beds frequently—even twice a day—because watering helps to cool the soil.

Our Horse Tamar

noreply@blogger.com (LM) — Mon, 02 Jan 2012 10:36:00 +0000

Tamar loves to pose for pictures

Growing Broccoli

noreply@blogger.com (LM) — Sun, 01 Jan 2012 14:20:00 +0000

As well as growing cabbage and starting them from seed, I've also started broccoli from seed for the first time as well as brussel sprouts.

Now, I must admit, I didn't exactly follow the instructions below when starting my seedlings. And there's a possibility that my broccoli could develop "button heads". The are area I planned on sowing them in wasn't quite ready, therefore the transplants were in their starter trays awhile. I started them indoors sometime in November.

Last year, I purchased starter plants and harvested a few small heads, but nothing worth raving about. No oohs and aahs. I'm hoping this year, we'll be hollering and freezing up a bunch. If it gets too cold we'll cover them in the small hoop houses we made. The little bit we did get last year, made it through the winter. Here's tips on how to grow Broccoli...

Broccoli is a hardy vegetable of the cabbage family that is high in vitamins A and D. It develops best during cool seasons of the year.

When broccoli plants of most varieties are properly grown and harvested, they can yield over an extended period. Side heads develop after the large, central head is removed. Two crops per year (spring and fall) may be grown in most parts of the country. New heat tolerant varieties allow broccoli to be produced in all but the hottest parts of the season.

Transplants are recommended to give the best start for spring planting, because transplanting gets the plants established more quickly. Thus they can bear their crop with minimal interference from the extreme heat of early summer. Fall crops may be direct-seeded in the garden if space allows or may be started in flats to replace early crops when their harvest ends.

When to Plant

Transplant young, vigorously growing plants in early spring. Plants that remain too long in seed flats may produce "button" heads soon after planting. For fall crops, buy or grow your own transplants or plant seeds directly in the garden. For fall planting, start seedlings in midsummer for transplanting into the garden in late summer. To determine the best time for setting your fall transplants, count backward from the first fall frost in your area and add about 10 to the days to harvest from transplants. Remember that time from seed to transplant is not included in this figure.

Spacing & Depth

Plant seeds 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep, or set transplants slightly deeper than they were grown originally. Plant or thin seedlings 18 to 24 inches apart in the row and allow 36 inches between rows. Broccoli plants grow upright, often reaching a height of 2 1/2 feet. Space plants one foot apart in all directions in beds.

Care

Use starter fertilizer for transplants and side-dress with nitrogen fertilizer when the plants are half grown. Provide ample soil moisture, especially as the heads develop.

Harvesting

The edible part of broccoli are compact clusters of unopened flower buds and the attached portion of stem. The green buds develop first in one large central head and later in several smaller side shoots. Cut the central head with 5 to 6 inches of stem, after the head is fully developed, but before it begins to loosen and separate and the individual flowers start to open (show bright yellow). Removing the central head stimulates the side shoots to develop for later pickings. These side shoots grow from the axils of the lower leaves. You usually can continue to harvest broccoli for several weeks.

Common Problems

Aphids — Watch for buildup of colonies of aphids on the undersides of the leaves.

Cabbage worms — Three species of cabbage worms (imported cabbage worms, cabbage loopers and diamond back moth worms) commonly attack the leaves and heads of cabbage and related cole crops. Imported cabbage worms are velvety green caterpillars. The moth is white and commonly is seen during the day hovering over plants in the garden. Cabbage loopers ("measuring worms") are smooth, light green caterpillars. The cabbage looper crawls by doubling up (to form a loop) and then moving the front of its body forward. The moth is brown and is most active at night. Diamondback worms are small, pale, green caterpillars that are pointed on both ends. The moth is gray, with diamond-shaped markings when the wings are closed. The damage caused by diamondback larvae looks like shot holes in the leaf.

The larval or worm stages of these insects cause damage by eating holes in the leaves and cabbage head. The adult moths or butterflies lay their eggs on the leaves but otherwise do not damage the plants. The worms are not easy to see because they are fairly small and blend with the cabbage leaves. Cabbage worms are quite destructive and can ruin the crop if not controlled. They are even worse in fall plantings than in spring gardens because the population has had several months to increase. About the time of the first frost in the fall, moth and caterpillar numbers finally begin to decline drastically.

Questions & Answers

Q. How large should the central head of broccoli grow before cutting?

A. Harvest the central head when the individual florets begin to enlarge and develop and before flowering begins. Size varies with variety, growing conditions and season of growth; but central heads should grow to be 4 to 6 inches in diameter, or even larger. Late side shoots may reach only 1 to 2 inches in diameter.

Q. What causes small plants, poor heading and early flowering?

A. Yellow flowers may appear before the heads are ready to harvest during periods of high temperatures. Planting too late in the spring or failing to give the plants a good start contributes to this condition. Premature flower development also may be caused by interrupted growth resulting from extended chilling of young plants, extremely early planting, holding plants in a garden center until they are too old or too dry, and severe drought conditions. Small heads that form soon after plants are set in the garden are called "buttons" and usually result from mistreated seedlings being held too long or improperly before sale or planting. Applying a starter fertilizer at transplanting gets the plants off to a good start but cannot correct all the difficulties mentioned.

Selection & Storage

Since broccoli grows best in cool weather, your garden plan should produce a fall and spring harvest. The large central head is the spring harvest and smaller side shoots will be ready in the fall. Harvest when the head is large and firm, with a compact cluster of small flower buds with none open enough to show bright yellow flowers. Look for bright green or purplish-green heads. Yellow flowers and enlarged buds are signs of over-maturity.

Store the broccoli, unwashed, in loose or perforated plastic bags in the vegetable crisper of the refrigerator. Broccoli left unrefrigerated quickly becomes fibrous and woody. Wet broccoli quickly becomes limp and moldy in the refrigerator—so wash it just before using. Store fresh broccoli in the refrigerator for 3-5 days. Old broccoli may look fine, but it develops strong undesirable flavors. It tastes best and is highest in nutritional value when storage time is brief.

Nutritional Value & Health Benefits

A member of the cabbage family and a close relative of cauliflower, broccoli packs more nutrients than any other vegetable. Broccoli contains large amounts of vitamin C and beta carotene which are important antioxidants. In the United States, broccoli has become the most favored cruciferous vegetable (cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, and all forms of cabbage). Researchers have concluded that broccoli and other cruciferous vegetables should be included in the diet several times a week. Consuming foods high in antioxidants can reduce the risk of some forms of cancer and heart disease. One half cup cooked broccoli contains the following nutrients as well as many other trace nutrients and phytochemicals.

Nutrition Facts (1/2 cup cooked fresh broccoli)

Calories 23
Dietary fiber 2.4 grams
Protein 2.3 grams
Carbohydrates 4.3 mg
Beta carotene
Vitamin C 49 mg
Folic Acid 53.3 nanograms
Calcium 89 mg
Iron 0.9 mg

university of Illiinois

Growing Lettuce

noreply@blogger.com (Tallah) — Thu, 29 Dec 2011 15:54:00 +0000

Sow: Seeds into beds thinly. Drills about 1/2" deep and 12" apart.

Then thin them out about 6"-12" apart, depending on the variety.

Care: Lettuce loves cool weather. They do not like heat. If you grow lettuce in the winter it can tolerate the cold. However, use a cloche, hoop-house, cold frame or plastic wind tunnel if temperatures get to cold.

Harvest: Cut outer leaves and use as needed. Additional leaves will continue to grow or cut the entire head depending on the variety.

Containers: You can grow lettuces indoors or out in containers. Sow the seeds directly into containers or sow a few seeds in seed pots and transplant when they reach about 2" inches. It's best to plant the seed directly in the area they'll mature in. Lettuce really doesn't like to be transplanted. However, I've had great success in transplanting. The above lettuce I started from seed out side and later transplanted into a larger raised bed.

Growing Garlic

noreply@blogger.com (Tallah) — Thu, 29 Dec 2011 09:33:00 +0000

Sow: Plant cloves in October through February. Plant up to 4 inches deep and in rows about 12 inches apart

Soil: Garlic likes loose soil it will in heavy wet soils, so add sand and organic matter or a soil conditioner before planting if you have heavy clay soil.

Harvest: When the lower leaves turn yellow or brown, pull up and leave to dry in
the sun for 10 days on a rack. Then remove the outer layer of skin before storing
in a cool place.

Containers: You can grow garlic in containers indoors or out. You can also clip the green stems and use for cooking.

Growing Cabbage

noreply@blogger.com (LM) — Sun, 25 Dec 2011 13:53:00 +0000

Currently I'm growing cabbage that I started from seed for the first time. Last year, I planted a few transplants I purchased from my local feed store. I'm happy the seedlings have taken off and are doing quite well.

Cabbage is a hardy vegetable that grows especially well in fertile soils. There are various shades of green available, as well as red or purple types. Head shape varies from the standard round to flattened or pointed. Most varieties have smooth leaves, but the Savoy types have crinkly textured leaves.

Cabbage is very easy to grow...

if you select suitable varieties and practice proper culture and insect management. Always regarded as a good source of vitamins, cabbage recently has been shown to have disease-preventive properties as well.

Growing Cabbage Depending on which variety you grow, you can harvest cabbages in spring, summer or winter. Space plants 12 to 24 inches apart in the row, depending upon the variety and the size of head desired. The closer the spacing, the smaller the heads. Early varieties are usually planted 12 inches apart in all directions. Early varieties produce 1 to 3 pound heads and later varieties produce 4 to 8 pound heads. Sow cabbage seed 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Keep the seeds moist and thin or transplant the seedlings to the desired spacing. The plants removed may be transplanted to another row or flat.

When To Plant

Transplant early cabbage soon enough that it matures before the heat of summer. Many varieties are available and two or three varieties with different maturities can provide harvest over a long period. Hardened plants are tolerant of frosts and can be planted among the earliest of cool-season garden vegetables. Cabbage is easily transplanted from either bare-root or cell-pack-grown plants. Late cabbage must be started during the heat of mid-summer, but it develops its main head during the cooling weather of fall. It may be transplanted or seeded directly in the garden. In summer, if possible, place seed flats or seedbeds where some protection from the sun is available, either natural or artificial. Try especially hard during this season to transplant on cloudy, overcast or rainy days for minimizing shock from the direct sun of summer.

Cabbage can be harvested anytime after the heads form. For highest yield, cut the cabbage heads when they are solid (firm to hand pressure) but before they crack or split. When heads are mature, a sudden heavy rain may cause heads to crack or split wide open. The exposed internal tissue soon becomes unusable. Harvest and salvage split heads as soon as possible after they are discovered.
In addition to harvesting the mature heads of the cabbage planted in the spring, you can harvest a later crop of small heads (cabbage sprouts). These sprouts develop on the stumps of the cut stems. Cut as close to the lower surface of the head as possible, leaving the loose outer leaves intact. Buds that grow in the axils of these leaves (the angle between the base of the leaf and the stem above it) later form sprouts. The sprouts develop to 2 to 4 inches in diameter and should be picked when firm. Continue control of cabbage worms and other pests. If this control cannot be maintained, remove and destroy or compost the stumps, because they serve as a breeding ground for diseases and insect pests.

Common Problems

Yellow or fusarium wilt is a relatively common disease that causes the leaves of plants to wilt and die. The first sign of the disease is yellowing and browning of the lower leaves. The plants are stunted before wilting occurs. Grow yellows-resistant (YR) or yellows-tolerant varieties. Most modern hybrids have this tolerance or resistance bred into them.
Blackleg and black rot are two diseases that cause severe losses. The plants may be stunted, turn yellow and die. Blackleg is named for the black cankers on the stem. The taproot often rots away. Black rot can be recognized by large, V-shaped, yellow-to-brown areas in the leaves, starting at the leaf edge. The veins turn black. Soft rot usually follows black-rot infection.
Control is essentially the same for blackleg and black rot. Both diseases are spread by seed, transplants and insects. Buy seed that has been hot-water treated to kill the disease organisms. Do not buy transplants that are wilted, are an unhealthy shade of green, or have black spots on the stems or leaves.
When you find diseased plants in the garden, collect the leaves, stems and tops; and burn or dispose of them. Do not put diseased plants into the compost pile. Avoid cultural practices (crowding, overwatering, planting in poorly drained soil and inadequate insect control) that support the disease organisms of black rot and blackleg. If possible, grow black-rot-resistant varieties.

Questions & Answers

Q. What can I do to prevent my cabbage heads from splitting?
A. Splitting is caused by the pressure of excessive water taken up after the heads are solid. Cutting the roots (spading on two sides of the plant) or breaking the roots (lifting and twisting the head to one side) can often reduce excessive splitting or bursting, but it also damages the plant and requires that the head be harvested relatively soon.
Q. What causes cabbage to develop seedstalks rather than solid heads?
A. Cabbage plants "bolt" (form premature seedstalks) when they are exposed to low temperatures (35 to 45 degrees F) for extended periods. Such chilling may happen if plants are set out too early or if an unseasonable blast of cold assaults the garden. After the plants have stems as large as a pencil, they are subject to this "cold conditioning," that initiates the flowering response.
Q. What is flowering cabbage?
A. Nonheading varieties of cabbage (similar to flowering kale) have been developed for ornamental uses. They have colorful white, pink or red rosettes of leaves surrounded by green or purple outer leaves. Most colorful during cool fall weather, they should be started in early summer to midsummer and set out with fall and winter plantings of regular, heading varieties of cabbage. Flowering cabbage (and flowering kale) are edible as well as ornamental.
Q. Why do butterflies fly around my cabbage plants?
A. Those butterflies (white or brown) are probably the moths of cabbage worms. They lay eggs on the plants. The eggs hatch into the worms that cause considerable damage unless controlled. Most control strategies are aimed at the developing larvae rather than the mature moths themselves.
Q. What causes large, lumpy swellings of my cabbage roots? The plants also are stunted.
A. Swellings and distorted roots on stunted, wilted plants may be symptoms of clubroot disease. This disease is caused by a fungus that remains in the garden soils for many years once it becomes established. It is spread by movement of infested soil and infected transplants. Other related cole crops (like broccoli and cauliflower) also may become infected. If you suspect that you have clubroot disease in your garden, ask your local extension office for help. If, in fact, you have clubroot in a location, destroy infected plant parts (including the roots) and for at least 4 years avoid planting any member of the cabbage family there, including radishes, turnips and ornamental relatives of cabbage.

Selection & Storage

Harvest large, unsplit heads of green cabbage. Look for tight, heavy heads, free of insects and decay. Fresh, uncut heads of cabbage can be stored in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Cover loosely with a plastic bag or use perforated bags. Do not wash cabbage before storing, the extra moisture will hasten deterioration.
Green cabbage — Green cabbage is sometimes called Dutch White. The outer leaves are dark green and the inner leaves are smooth and pale to medium green. If you plan to eat the cabbage raw, use within a few days. Cabbage that you plan to cook can be stored in the refrigerator for about two weeks.
Savoy cabbage — Crinkly, with waves of blue-green leaves, Savoy cabbage is a beautiful sight growing in the garden. These thin, richly flavored leaves are ideal served raw in salads or cooked. Cooked Savoys do not have the strong sulfur odor of green cabbage. Savoy only keep for about 4 days in the refrigerator so buy it when you plan to use it.
Red cabbage — This variety is usually smaller and denser than heads of green cabbage. The flavor of red cabbage is slightly peppery and it is very susceptible to color change. Cook red cabbage with vinegar (or other acidic ingredient) or it will turn an ugly blue-gray color. Always use stainless steel knives and cookware when preparing red cabbage to prevent color changes.

Nutritional Value & Health Benefits

There are literally hundred of varieties of cabbage. The most popular varieties in the United States are green cabbage and bok choy. As with broccoli, cabbage is a cruciferous vegetable and may reduce the risk of some forms of cancer including colorectal cancers. Cabbage is also high in beta-carotene, vitamin C and fiber. Other substantial nutrients in a half cup cooked cabbage include the following.
Nutrition Facts (1/2 cup cooked green cabbage)

Calories 16
Dietary fiber 2.9 grams
Carbohydrates 3.6 mg
Vitamin C 18.2 mg

How day length affects vegetable production

noreply@blogger.com (Tallah) — Wed, 07 Dec 2011 22:24:00 +0000

The two primary environmental factors that affect plant growth are temperature and day length. Temperature is easy enough to understand: Every plant species has a temperature range in which it will grow, and optimum temperatures in which it will thrive.
Day length is a little more complicated, especially in combination with temperature. Understanding the relationship between the two can lead to more successful season extension and variety selection.

The first thing to know is

that the term day length is a misnomer. Scientific research has confirmed that it's actually the length of the dark periods, not the length of daylight periods, that controls plant growth. This fact was discovered long after day length became a widely used term in horticulture, and the name has stuck. Understanding the importance of dark periods can come in handy for the grower, though, because it can be used to trick plants about day length and force them into bloom outside their normal season. More on that later.

Many plant species have day length triggers that determine when they grow vegetatively and when they bloom. They may be long-day plants or short-day plants. Some plants don't react to day length; they are called day-neutral.

Figuring day length

Day length is a function of latitude all places on the same latitude have the same amount of daylight on any given day. Day is equal to night 12 hours each at the two equinoxes, which mark the beginning of spring and the beginning of fall. The winter solstice marks the shortest day (longest night), and the summer solstice marks the longest day (shortest night) of the year. In the winter, days are longer the closer you get to the equator and in the summer, days are longer the farther you get from the equator. Compare day length in Maine and Florida in summer and winter:

Location	Day length at summer solstice	Day length at winter solstice
Portland, Maine	15 hrs., 26 min.	8 hrs., 55 min.
Miami, Florida	13 hrs., 45 min.	10 hrs., 32 min.

Most plants don't grow when day length is less than 10 hours. Even if the temperature is kept within the optimum range in a climate-controlled greenhouse, most plants will just sit dormant until the magic 10 hours of light per day arrives. See the chart below for examples of the period when day length is less than 10 hours.

Location	Dates when day length is less than 10 hours
Atlanta, Georgia	December 8 to January 4
Washington, D.C.	November 19 to January 26
New York, New York	November 14 to January 30
Portland, Maine	November 8 to February 4

Because most plants don't grow with less than 10 hours of daylight, winter greenhouse production requires supplemental lighting as well as supplemental heat. Lights can be turned on shortly before sunset to extend the length of the day. Or they can be turned on in the middle of the night for a short period of time, a procedure called night-interruption lighting.

This brings us back to the fact that it's the dark period that's important to plants: The short days of winter have long nights. If a grower breaks up those long nights by turning on lights in the middle of the night, some plants will act as though the night is short (and therefore the day is long) and behave just as they would in the middle of summer. Many bedding plant and cut-flower greenhouses use night-interruption lighting to force flowers to bloom in winter.

Even for growers who don't use supplemental lighting, the facts about day length are pertinent. Here are some examples of why day length may be a factor in gardening success:

Cauliflower starts to develop a head when days get shorter. That happens sooner in northern than in southern regions, which means cauliflower will produce sooner in Maine than in Virginia. Cooler temperatures during head development also lead to better flavor. So cauliflower is an easier crop in the north than the south.
Basil doesn't grow during the short days of winter, even in a tropical greenhouse. Supplemental lighting and heat are required to get good winter yields, and in most places the energy costs are not justified by the income from a basil crop.
Flower growers are especially subject to the rules of day length because many of the most popular cut flowers have day length triggers. Rudbeckia, for example, grows vegetatively in short days and flowers under long days. If you plant them in early spring, they will grow big, healthy plants and send up bountiful long stems as the days get longer in summer. But if you plant them in late summer hoping for a fall crop, you will get few flowers on very short stems because the day length is too short to trigger blooming.

Many other facets of food and flower production are affected by day length, temperature, or a combination of the two. If you have ever wondered why certain crops don't grow as well for you as they do in other parts of the country, day length may be a contributing factor. If you aren't attuned to the day length in your location, get a sunrise/sunset calculator and mark your calendar with the dates when you have 10 hours of daylight, 11 hours, 12 hours, and so on. Over time, you will begin to notice correlations between day length and your garden's activity.

By Lynn Byczynski

A rainbow over our farm

noreply@blogger.com (Tallah) — Tue, 29 Nov 2011 15:20:00 +0000

I went outside yesterday and saw this rainbow. My husband was outside but I couldn't see him. As I walked over to the pasture to admire the rainbow, I called for him. When I got near the fence

he was already there, hunching down taking this photograph. It was one of the most beautiful rainbows I ever saw. I thank God for allowing me to see it with my husband. It was truly a blessed sight.

Pallet Chicken Coop

noreply@blogger.com (United Farmers) — Fri, 18 Nov 2011 08:25:00 +0000

Here's a new chicken pen I made out of free pallets.

The effects of time change on livestock

noreply@blogger.com (United Farmers) — Sun, 13 Nov 2011 08:40:00 +0000

All my hens suddenly stopped laying eggs a few weeks ago. I didn't know why, so I went online and researched it. I learned hens need at least 12-14 hours of light to produce eggs. With a few adjustments, such as installing a light in their henhouse, they're laying again. Here's an interesting article on the time change and how it affects livestock.

Over the weekend, most of the U.S. “fell back” for daylight saving time. First adopted in the United States in 1918 in an effort to conserve fuel used to produce electricity during World War I, this biannual time adjustment has experienced its fair share of criticism over the years. While some say it saves energy and gives us more daylight for outdoor activities, like exercising, running errands or working on the farm, others say that it throws off humans’ circadian rhythm. As debates over the effects daylight saving time ensue, it’s important to remember that the time change can also impact our animals.
Just as humans have internal clocks, so do livestock. Many times livestock routines are formed by human activities, and psychological and physiological stress can occur if those routines are disrupted. For example, if a cow is used to being milked at a certain time each day and suddenly the farmer arrives an hour sooner, the cow will not feel that it is the proper time to be milked and may resist. Much the same, if the farmer waits an hour later, the cow will be more than ready to be milked because in its mind, the farmer is “late.” Physical effects can occur, as well, as the cow’s udder will continue

to produce milk and pressure will build up due to the delayed milking time.
Other animals experience effects of daylight saving time, too. Livestock accustomed to being fed at a certain time will be disappointed when they visit their feeder only to find it empty. Just as humans can get grumpy when hungry, animals do as well. They don’t care if your alarm clock, your microwave, the DVR, your cell phone, your wristwatch, the laptop, the iPad, and the morning news all agree that time has changed, they just want to eat breakfast!
Some simple ways to avoid livestock issues surrounding daylight saving time include gradually adjusting farming schedules so that animals do not experience a dramatic change in routine or simply “following the sun” instead of the clock when partaking in your daily farm activities. Just remember, when the rooster crows, it doesn’t check the clock first.

Make a Wood Planter Container

noreply@blogger.com (United Farmers) — Fri, 11 Nov 2011 23:49:00 +0000

Today were going to make a small raised bed or this could also be considered a container garden. I found these pieces of wood when I picked up my pallets. There were 12 pieces all equal in size.

I simply nailed the sides together.

Then I added some well composted soil. Next...

For this container I planted Swiss Chard seeds. Swiss chard is a grows best in cool weather..

Make Your Own Gardening Labels

noreply@blogger.com (United Farmers) — Sat, 05 Nov 2011 09:10:00 +0000

Some things are just ridiculously expensive. You can save money if you just take a little time to think things out and use a little ingenuity. Sometimes I'll just browse around hardware stores, looking at supplies - but with an eye to use it for something else. You know those really cheap plastic blinds you see in places like Family Dollar or Walmart? Well I purchased a set (the longest in length) and I cut them into the sizes I wanted. They make great gardening labels.

Okra Seeds

noreply@blogger.com (United Farmers) — Fri, 04 Nov 2011 12:58:00 +0000

To save okra seeds allow the pods to dry out completely.
Peel the pods open and place dry seeds in a jar or paper envelope.

Look what I found still growing....

noreply@blogger.com (United Farmers) — Fri, 04 Nov 2011 09:25:00 +0000

Tomato seedlings.
The seeds sprouted from some of the tomatoes that fell from the vines.
I'll put these in water and see what happens. Hopefully I can grow these throughout the winter.

The GREATEST, BESTEST MOM EVER!! In the entire universe, world and all the planets including Zotran and Momopolis.... that haven't been discovered yet!

noreply@blogger.com (Tallah) — Thu, 03 Nov 2011 14:41:00 +0000

My mom got these for me!!! Aren't they pretty? We can scratch these off the wish list. We're making progress.... THANKS MOM! I LOVE YOU. Now I can really get some work done!.....

I don't know how much today? And I'm not sure if I should use them for work or dress?...

I'll make a decisions soon... I'll just sleep on it.

Fall Colors Around The Farm

noreply@blogger.com (United Farmers) — Wed, 02 Nov 2011 08:06:00 +0000

Growing Peppers

noreply@blogger.com (Tallah) — Thu, 29 Sep 2011 03:33:00 +0000

Tip: Grow peppers in black containers. Peppers love heat and the containers will keep them warm. Add a match to the soil, place it in the bottom of the pot. Matches contain sulfur and peppers love sulfur.

A day in the year at our farm

noreply@blogger.com (Tallah) — Sun, 18 Sep 2011 19:07:00 +0000

summer bounty

okra

preparing to can and freeze

yellow and zucchini squash

swiss chard transplants

cabbage

red onions

Okra flower and flying hornet

braided garlic

lettuce

eggplant, cantaloupe, tomatoes

Mustapha our cockerel

heirloom tomatoes

fresh eggs from our hens

jalapeno peppers

Plymouth Barred Rock

preserving cucumbers...making pickles

harvesting spinach and mixed lettuce greens

tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes

freshly harvested basil

chickens helping in the garden

sweet baby watermelons

Okra. I love okra

and... ant's love okra too.

sunflower...my first time ever growing them

This was our year at our farm Tallah. There are plenty more pictures I'll be posting soon of other vegetables and herbs we grew. Thank you for stopping by. We hope you enjoy your visit.

tags tomato sauce canning tomatoes okra eggs Tallah farms sunflower chickens pullets Plymouth rock garlic spinach peppers Swiss chard Boston Bib lettuce summer cockerel

Basil how to propagate

noreply@blogger.com (United Farmers) — Sat, 08 Jan 2011 12:00:00 +0000

Instructions:

Cut the basil about 4-6 inches and place in water and in a sunny until they form roots, then transfer to a small pot with rich organic soil.