The Folding Rule

Episode #112 - Help Out a Fellow Woodworker!

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Mon, 13 Jul 2009 22:45:00 +0000

Todd Clippinger . . . American Craftsman

Join me in supporting a great woodworker, patient teacher and a talent craftsman in his bid for the DIY StudFinder 2009 Contest. Watch the video and click on the link to give Todd your vote of confidence!

Todd's Gallery on Lumberjocks.com

Episode #111 – A Simple Set of Planter Boxes

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Fri, 10 Jul 2009 05:33:00 +0000

This is a great weekend project. I used extra materials from previous projects so this was a double bonus as I got to clean up the shop a bit.

Comparison of Planter box (left) finished with Krylon Spray Stain
and Unfinished Planter Box (right)

This set of planter boxes was built with two 1x6x8 and 6 1x4x8 pieces of cedar, a half sheet of ¾ CDX exterior plywood and a half sheet of 3/8 clear cedar soffit.

The Kreg Jig

Assembly was simple and fast frame and panel construction using the Kreg Jig.

Krylon Spray Semi-Transparent Stain Pallete

The finish was also simple and fast using Krylon Spray Exterior Semi-Transparent Stain which is a new product by Kryon.

Planter box (left) finished with Krylon Stain & Asphalt Emmulsion
Unfinished (right) planter box

The interior of the planter boxes was waterproofed with asphalt emulsion. Since this is an outdoor project, final touches include wire screen covered drain holes and TiteBond III Exterior glue.

It was a pleasure to get a chance to try out Krylon’s newest product. A number of other Internet woodworkers had the same opportunity. You can check out their awesome reviews by the links below.

Well, this project was a sorely needed distraction. It was fun to build something quick and fast with some immediate gratification in less than a weekend! This weekend I have no excuses so its back to work on the engagement chest.

UPDATE: The planter boxes where delivered this weekend. They look great on the deck . . . now we just need some flowers!

Frame Shop for The Clearwater Gallery
Sisters • Oregon

To help inspire your own planter box, a set of SketchUp plans for a deck planter box and a window planter box are available for download.

Episode #110 – Planing Wedges Make Great Clamps!

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Sat, 04 Jul 2009 23:33:00 +0000

Close-up of front panel of an engagement
chest camped against the bench edge
with a leather faced planing wedge

Having lived with my Modified New-Fangled Workbench for sometime, the two of us have enjoyed a love – hate relationship. However, there are a number of features that I have come to appreciate and depend on when working at the bench. Chief among these are the planing beam and planing wedges.

Today was no exception as I utilized the planing wedges to firmly secure the casework of an engagement chest to clean up the joinery between the front and end panels. A heavy fleece blanket protected the end panel resting on the shop floor.

The planing wedges slide along the upper edge of the bench on a T-track. They are leather lined and are locked in place with two ¼-20 T-bolts and star knobs. By securing the rear star knob first while the forward knob is loose, it is possible to gain an extra degree of clamping pressure by tightening the forward star knob against the work wedged against the leather face. The leather provides a firm grip while protecting the work.

I am considering a new bench in the near future, however at the top of my list of desirable features is the planing wedge and beam.

Episode #109 - Ancient Caves, Historic Rustic Lodge & Antique Furniture

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Fri, 03 Jul 2009 15:25:00 +0000

“We were just making furniture”
George Mason
Mason Manufacturing • Los Angeles • California

Well, a bit of time has passed since my last post due to a lot of work to complete before going on a short summer holiday. We surprised the kids with a layover at The Oregon Caves Chateau and I discovered a unique opportunity to examine a wonderful collection of Monterey Furniture. Beth & I stayed in Room 211 and the kids stayed in Room 304. I enjoy the architecture of the National Parks, so this was a real treat on many levels.

Oregon Caves Chateau
(Photo - Historic Hotels & Lodges)

Oregon Caves Chateau - Room 211
(Photo - Historic Hotels & Lodges)

Oregon Caves Chateau - Room 304
(Photo - Historic Hotels & Lodges)

The Oregon Caves Chateau, considered a masterpiece if rustic architecture, was designed and built by Mr. Gust Lium (1884-1965), a local contractor with an outstanding degree of design talent. Lium’s architectural work stands up well against the great rustic architects of the period. The six-story chateau, straddling a steep mountain canyon, was designed to allow diverted stream water from the waterfall and trout pond to flow through the third floor dinning room.

Monterey Chair - Main Lodge
(Photo - D. Pruett)

Details of Hand-Wrought Iron
Hardware & Hand Painting
Monterey Chair - Main Lodge
(Photo - D. Pruett)

Monterey Chair & Writing Desk - Main Lodge
(Photo - D. Pruett)

Detail of Hand-Wrought Iron Hardware
Writing Desk - Main Lodge
(Photo - D. Pruett)

The Oregon Caves Chateau is home of the world’s largest public collection of authentic antique Monterey Furniture. The National Park Service owns the furniture collection. Entering the chateau is like stepping back in time to the early 1930’s since the lodge and all the rooms retain the original furnishings.

Hand Painting Detail of
Monterey Desk - Main Lodge
(Photo - D. Pruett)

Drawer Detail of Monterey
Kneehole Desk - Main Lodge
(Photo - D. Pruett)

Monterey Chair - Main Lodge
(Photo - D. Pruett)

Hand Painting Detail
Monterey Chair - Main Lodge
(Photo - D. Pruett)

Los Angles Furniture Retailer, Barker Brothers, had the foresight in 1929 to contact by George and Frank Mason of Mason Manufacturing to create a line of furniture embracing the Spanish Revival Movement. The design influences were rooted in 16th & 17th Spanish and early California mission era furniture.

Detail of Monterey Chair - Main Lodge
(Photo - D. Pruett)

Distressed lumber, leather, hand-painted finishes and hand-wrought iron hardware are indicative of the whimsical Monterey look. George Mason’s company produced a full line of furniture and accessories that continued through 1943. Tip a piece over or look on the back of case goods to see the “Monterey” name and sometimes the logo, a horseshoe, burnt into the piece by a branding iron.

Monterey Furniture Brand & Logo

Oregon Caves Chateau
Monterey Furniture NPS Inventory Label
(Photo - Historic Hotels & Lodges)

Monterey Furniture was instantly popular and the fashionable estates of the time were graced with this unique furniture sold through Barker Brothers Furniture stores. Notable celebrities that owned collections of Monterey Furniture included Will Rogers, Clark Gable, Gene Autry, and Walt Disney. Today, Monterey furniture is a collectible and prices are rising as people rediscover the furniture.

Happy Fourth of July!

Thank you to the brave men & women
protecting our freedom and serving
our country in the Armed Services
of the United States!

Some Interesting Oregon Caves & Monterey Furniture Links
Oregon Caves National Monument
Historic Hotels & Lodges – Oregon Caves Chateau
Architecture in the Parks – Oregon Caves
Roger Renick Fine Arts & Antiques – Monterey Furniture Section
Roger Renick’s Book “Monterey- Furnishings of California's Spanish Revival”

Episode #108 - String Inlay

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Thu, 11 Jun 2009 05:36:00 +0000

Beginning to Experiment with String Inlay . . .

Something to do While Waiting for Glue to Dry

I had a great day in the shop today completing the main glue up of the engagement chest. So, what to do while the glue dries? Well, I have been reading a lot about Federal Furniture. I have read everything within grasp from books to online sources. I am fascinated with the furniture of the time period as our country was coming into its own. This interest has been spurred somewhat by my son's passion for history. I am particularly drawn to the fine embellishments that characterize this furniture.

Spurred by burgeoning success with a handmade scratch stock, I decided to play a bit with stringing while the glue dried on my engagement chest project. This is still a work in progress but I am encouraged.

I made a small in-line stringing scratch stock blade from a 1/4-20 fender washer. I outlined the profile with a drafting template and used my 10 inch disk sander to grind out the initial shape. A large bolt served as a convenient handle. The blade was then honed and polished with a series of graduated wet / dry sandpaper. The teeth were cut with a small triangular jeweler's file.

The blade was then mounted on a 7/8 inch hardwood dowel with a 1/4-20 threaded brass insert in the end. The blade is secured with a brass washer and an allen-head 1/4-20 cap screw. A piece of 4/4 scrap jatoba served as a makeshift stock.

The results were somewhat crude but very encouraging. Many questions arose from this little experiment, not the least of which is how to make sharp beginning and ending cuts. Oh well, enough for now. Time to remove the clamps and go to bed!

Resources & Inspiration:

Line-and-Berry Inlay: Add eye-catching inlay using motifs from 18th-century Pennsylvania furniture, by Steve Latta (Fine Woodworking)

String Inlay: Fine lines of contrasting woods add an elegant touch to furniture, by Garrett Hack (Fine Woodworking)

Making and Applying Decorative String Inlay with Jeff Williams, inlay specialist for the Irion Company. A video Tutorial produced by Keith Cruickshank from Woodtreks

Lie-Nielsen Inlay Tools

Episode #107 – Engagement Chest Update & Scratch Stock in Action

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Sun, 31 May 2009 16:11:00 +0000

Shop Made Scratch Stock in Action!

I had a very productive day in the shop yesterday. I even had time to shoot a bit of video showing the scratch stock in action. I had time to practice with the scratch stock and developed enough confidence to put it to use on the engagement chest.

Engagement Chest Dry Fit

As an update on the chest, I have completed veneering the 8 panels, cut the curves on the bottom rails, cut the panel grooves in the rails & stiles and cut the tapers on the legs. I even had a chance to scratch quirk beads on the panel rails. They turned out great and it was very satisfying to know that they were done with a tool I made myself!

Episode #106 – Quirk Bead Scratch Stock

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Thu, 21 May 2009 02:35:00 +0000

An Easy to Make Quirk Bead Scratch Stock Blade

It was almost a year ago to the date that I built a scratch stock. My inspiration came from a finely written blog entry by Kari Hultman on her wonderful blog The Village Carpenter. Ever the experimenter, I chose to use a cap head allen screw to secure the blade. I also added a couple of steel straps to the top of the scratch stock to reinforce the blade slot from the force of the set screw. The first stock I built broke the first time I tightened the set screw, splitting along the grain at the blade slot.

My scratch stock has been patiently sitting on my shop bench under my hand planes awaiting a profiled cutter. I finally got around to shaping a cutter and giving it a quick test run on some scrap jatoba. I was very pleased with the results. This scratch stock has a relatively long flat face so it is better suited for cutting profiles on flat work opposed to detailing curved work. I cut my blade stock with a jigsaw and metal cutting blade from an old cabinet scraper.

My first profile is a quirk bead. I am thinking of adding this detail to our niece’s engagement chest. We will see. I know I will need to now put in some practice with this seemingly simple tool so I can confidently produce a smooth bead profile.

Kari offered some important advice on her blog regarding sharpening the blade. It is very important to polish and hone all edges! I ended up flattening the sharp tip of the blade which made it much easier to use. This also made for a nice narrow flat bottomed quirk. I also discovered lightly spritzing the wood with alcohol before the final couple of passes produced a quirk bead as smooth as a baby’s bottom! The final result has just the slightest hint of hand work which is very satisfying.

Return Bead • Uncut Stock • Bead & Quirk

Click to download PDF

Scratch Stock Related Links

Episode #105 - Engagement Chest Update

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Tue, 19 May 2009 17:02:00 +0000

Dimensioning Lumber & Frame Construction

Things are moving along nicely in the shop. Last week, lumber was rough milled and final dimensioned. While lumber was adjusting to shop conditions, I made a set of full-scale drawings (visible in the background above the frame) and generated a cutting list.

Last weekend I assembled the frame for the chest. Next step is to clean up joinery, shape the bottom rail curves and cut the leg tapers.

The panels will be ¼ MDF with flat cut cherry for the outer veneer and flat cut maple for the inner veneer. I like using light colored veneers inside cabinets and chests because it brightens the inside making viewing contents easier for the owner. I used this technique very effectively on a cherry display pedestal (shown in photo below) last year.

MDF makes for a dimensionally stable panel eliminating seasonal movement and ultimately a solid construction since these panels can be glued into the frame.

The solid wood frame is jatoba (aka Brazilian Cherry in the U.S.), a hard dense wood that machines well. I purchased the lumber locally at Crosscut Hardwoods in Portland with a gift certificate from my very supportive wife. The selection at Crosscut is outstanding. It almost seems like a "wood library" as you walk down the aisles, appreciate the aroma from many varied wood species while reading the descriptive labels at the top of each bin.

Episode #104 - Best Laid Plans . . .

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Mon, 18 May 2009 06:05:00 +0000

The Kraus House - Aurora, Oregon

This weekend Beth and I planned on a quick weekend get away trip to Sisters, Oregon thinking the kids would be away on activities until Sunday afternoon. Well, the operative words there are “thinking the kids would be away”. Turns out we didn’t have that quite figured out as well as we thought!

We quickly came up with a Plan B. We had a great weekend antiquing, eating out at some favorite spots and catching a couple of movies. It’s the woodworking I saw while antiquing that I want to share. We visited the small town of Aurora several miles South of Portland. The Aurora Colony was a utopian society established by Dr. William Keil similar to the communal settlement he established Bethel, Missouri.

Today Aurora is a wonderful small town that is a local Mecca for antiques and collectables. We found a number of treasures to bring home that weekend. I took the opportunity to take a few photos of some marquetry I noticed on furniture in several of the shops.

I have started to study and practice marquetry in my shop. You don’t have to spend much time at the scroll saw or sand-shader to appreciate the fine details that marquetry adds to furniture.

I was surprised to note that I didn’t have to look long before I found my first example. Unfortunately I have no specific details on the pieces to share other than close-ups of the marquetry. Well, I am certainly motivated for my next piece!

Episode #103 - Cherry Blossom Marquetry Panel UPDATE

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Fri, 08 May 2009 04:48:00 +0000

I was pretty excited the other day when I took the cherry blossom marquetry panel out of the vacuum press. I had to wait to see the final result as had regular work the following day. This morning I was up bright and early and started removing the gum tape from the finish face. I then mixed up a batch of 1/2# cut Hock Blonde Shellac. I'm pretty pleased with the results . . . not bad for my first marquetry panel. I learned a lot that I will apply to the next panel!

Episode #102 - Grand Slam Tools Home Run 4-Pack Arrives!

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Fri, 08 May 2009 03:45:00 +0000

Hey guys, I just had a very cool package dropped off on the front porch. I’ve been waiting anxiously ever since placing my order when I first heard these tools were in production.

Knowing Tommy, I knew this would be a quality set. Now that they have arrived in my shop, I must say I am not disappointed!

The custom packaging makes for an absolutely excellent presentation for this tool set. The “dugout” paring blocks (1:6) are the perfect size. The maple mallet is awesome with tight, dense grain that is well turned and exquisitely balanced. The mallet is turned from an actual major league hard maple baseball bat billet at the premier major league bat manufacturer right here in the USA!

However, the marking gauge, well it is in a class of its own. It is light but yet has a solid feel. The brass adjusting knob lends a real sense of class. The gauge bar slides very smoothly and the custom made Hock blade is wicked shaaarp!

I had to quickly remind myself to NOT run my thumb along the blade as I was admiring the marking gauge.

This marking gauge works perfectly right out of the box! Order your set today at Grand Slam Tools!

Episode #101 – Sand Shading

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Wed, 06 May 2009 05:12:00 +0000

After spending a very pleasant afternoon cutting on the scroll saw I was faced with approximately 20 small pieces of veneer representing the various pieces of this cherry blossom motif. The cutting went very well.

I learned to be flexible and go with the process. As each piece was cut free of the packet, I placed them on an off-cut tray sitting to the right of my saw. The next step was to get set-up for sand shading.

My sand shader consists of an old No. 8 cast iron skillet, an electric hot plate and some fine white quartz sand. My wife picked up the cast iron skillet for me at a second hand store. Try as we may, we could not locate a used electric hot plate so I ended up purchasing one new from a local hardware store. The sand was purchased a pet supply.

As each piece was selected for sand shading I would refer to the original drawing to identify areas to be shaded. I used some scrap veneer to get a feel of how hot the sand was and the time needed for a light shading. Turns out that with the hot plate set to medium I could put the veneer in the sand and get a perfect degree of shading by counting to 5.

After sand shading each piece was returned to the cut-off tray. Heat from the sand shader made each piece of veneer dry and brittle with a slight curve. The next step was to re-hydrate the pieces with a small bit of water on my finger tip. Each piece was then placed in a “press” made from two scrap pieces of ¾ inch Baltic Birch Plywood covered with wax paper. The weight from the top plywood platen was all that was needed to flatten each piece of veneer as it absorbed the water and gently dried.

I was pretty excited as I started to assemble the pieces into the background veneer. A thin green border was applied followed by a wide banding of mitered mahogany. My favorite part of every veneer project is putting the assembly into the vacuum press. I have a small heating pad on top of the press covered with a heavy moving blanket to keep the temperature high enough for the plastic resin veneer glue to cure under heat and pressure.

As I write this blog entry this evening the vacuum press is running. I will be fun to share the results within the next few days!

Episode #100 - First Foray into Marquetry

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Sun, 03 May 2009 17:34:00 +0000

Cutting veneer and packet assembly

First Foray into Marquetry . . . A Great Way to Celebrate Episode 100!

Packet Assembly

The last several months have been exciting for my small shop as I have been accumulating supplies and initial equipment to begin exploring marquetry. I have been considering this for some time since it is a natural extension of veneer work. Thanks to stimulating conversations initiated by Neil Lamens, I have been augmenting my woodworking reading with the likes of Silas Kopf and Paul Schurch.

Cutting Packet with a Scroll Saw

The video clips embedded in this post were initially recorded to share with Neil my fledgling progress. I thought they would be interesting to include giving context to the process. As every other aspect of woodworking, I am self-taught at this juncture. In that vein I have been doing a lot of reading, as well as, watching a few select DVDs to the point of almost wearing them out!

Cheery tree in full bloom

Building an engagement chest for our niece has catalyzed my interest in marquetry. I have always been very practical and having a project to pursue has always provided a solid impetuous to learn and apply a new skill. I thought that a small piece of marquetry would be a nice detail to add to the bottom of the storage tray inside the chest. Beth and I decided on a small branch of cherry blossoms.

Using my kitchen window as a light board

Sketch of a branch with cherry blosoms

It turned out I had had a lot of inspiration right outside our kitchen nook window as the cherry trees bloomed in all their splendor this last month. I used the back-lighted window as an inexpensive light board and worked out a sketch that hopefully will not be too challenging to execute.

My first marquetry exercise

Close-up detail of my first marquetry exercise

My first exercise was a simple 4x4 packet using some scrap veneer to get a feel of the process. I mad no attempt to work with grain or do any sand shading. This packet basically gave me a feel of packet assembly, scroll saw work and assembly. As expected, I made a lot of mistakes, but more importantly, I learned volumes.

Cutting veneer and packet assembly

My second exercise is a bit larger piece adding the complexity of working with grain patterns, color and sand shading. I am feeling a bit less intimidated by the scroll saw and my cuts are starting to flow with less effort. I also significantly reduced my saw blade breakage rate; 10 blades on the first 4x4 packet compared with 3 blades on the larger packet! I’ve noticed that good lighting at the blade and my shop magnifying eyeglasses have been a significant help.

Close-up detail of veneer selection

Episode #99 - Springtime is Perfect for Outdoor Projects

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Thu, 30 Apr 2009 18:47:00 +0000

Fresh Fallen Snow Greeting my Work Day

Springtime is perfect for outdoor projects. Well, almost! One of the great pleasures in life is to share our skills with friends. Our family has been blessed with friendship from a family we have grown to know and love in the little town of Sisters, Oregon.

Set-up for Work at the Frame Shop
(notice the tarp set up for weather protection)

Newly Installed Step
Of course now the weather is nice!

Close-up of the Newly Installed Step

Early this week I had the distinct pleasure of lending a helping hand adding a step to the low deck that greets visitors to their newly relocated frame shop. It sounded like the perfect deal. Helping our friends, enjoying the fresh Central Oregon air and getting a bit of sun after a long cold and overcast winter in Portland. Well, I was in for a surprise. It was a good thing that I erected a tarp before getting to work. I think the snow flakes that fell as drove to the shop were a warning.

Snow Falling as I Drive to the Frame Shop

That day I experienced the full range of Central Oregon weather; snow, hail, rain and even a quick burst of sunshine! By the end of the day, the step was completed and I warmed my chilled bones in the hot tub while more snowflakes fell.

Well, it isn't woodworking in the shop but it sure was fun!

Episode #98 - A Hide Glue Repair

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Tue, 21 Apr 2009 17:28:00 +0000

Repairing an Old Drawer with Animal Hide Glue

Last night I was startled awake from a woodworking daydream by a loud crashing sound from our home office. The side and bottom fell out of drawer of our antique oak desk when Beth was trying to get a box of staples from the rear of the long drawer. Sounds like a repair brewing! Well this desk is an older "antique" oak English library desk. Beth and I bought it 25 years ago from Square Nail Antiques in Santa Cruz, California. It is a great desk, but honestly it is nothing super special . . . just a good sturdy desk that has served us well.

Now there are many ways to approach this repair. Given my interest in "blended methods", I chose a traditional method using animal hide glue. It was very interesting to examine the (machine cut) dovetails, drawer bottom groove and the 3-ply drawer bottom. To get things going, I gently scraped away the old glue and brittle shellac from the dovetails and drawer side.

I was met by a surprise when I retrieved my hide glue jar from the refrigerator. A small patch of mold had begun to grow along one edge of the glue. Serves me right! It had been awhile since I had fired up the glue pot.

I quickly mixed up a fresh batch and got to work repairing the drawer.

In no time at all the drawer was in the clamps and I had a fresh batch of hide glue for up coming projects.

Episode #97 - Building an Engagement Hope Chest

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Fri, 27 Mar 2009 22:06:00 +0000

As a woodworker, can you imagine a more wonderful way to celebrate an engagement than the gift of a hope chest? I was quite surprised and honored when my wife asked that I build a cherry hope chest as an engagement gift for our niece Casey. Casey and her fiancée, Matt, will be married this September. The entire family is looking forward to celebrating their engagement this June. Sorry to share so much personal information here, but I think you all will get the point that I need to get my rear out in the shop since time is clicking by rapidly!

I just finished ordering veneer supplies for this chest. You will note that the SketchUp drawing is somewhat bland appearing. This was no accident since Beth and I were still exploring veneer options for the top and side panels. We finally decided on flat cut cherry for the side panels and eucalyptus burl for the top.

FLAT-SAWN CHERRY VENEER
Click veneer image for link to Veneer Supplies

Why eucalyptus burl? Great question. Since Casey and Matt live in California, and because our family has roots in California, we wanted to incorporate an interesting native California species. With that in mind I was considering burl veneers from redwood, madrone or eucalyptus. After investigating these species, I eventually settled on a beautiful piece of eucalyptus burl veneer that will make a striking contrast to the cherry solids.

EUCALYPTUS BURL VENEER

Click veneer image for link to Veneer Supplies

Cherry is perhaps my all time favorite primary wood species. From a historical perspective, cherry has some interesting symbolism relevant to an engagement gift. In China, the cherry blossom represents feminine beauty and the Japanese believe cherry blossoms exemplify the ephemeral nature of life. Cherry blossoms also symbolize clouds given their nature to bloom en masse.

Now, I have a number of (potential) surprises up my sleeve that I will share during the progress of the project. I also have a hard time point at the end of April to have of the casework complete. More on that as April approaches! That leaves the month of May to complete the inner tray. “A simple tray shouldn’t take you that long” you might say . . . I hope I don’t prove that wrong as the tray is one of my surprises!

Episode #96 - Spring Project List

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Wed, 11 Mar 2009 16:19:00 +0000

Benchtop Aid for the Festool Domino

A Peek Preview of My Spring Projects List

My wife Beth wants (as a woodworker this should sound familiar!) me to build a 3-panel cherry-wedding chest for our niece. Beth wants exterior metal veneers, curly maple inner veneers and a solid cherry frame. She is considering having our landscape artist friend paint a small landscape on the center panel (18x24). I don’t have a lot of time to dally with the wedding chest, as Beth would like to deliver the chest when we visit her brother’s home in Fall River this Spring.

I also will be working on an oak gallery display shelf and a new jig to facilitate more effective use of my Domino joiner. I am just starting to sketch the design for the chest while working out wood and materials concerns.

I do a fair amount of loose tenon joinery with “dominos” and a Festool Domino. I always jury-rig a temporary assembly system fashioning of a support and backstop to support rails, stiles, and any other project pieces. This jig will take advantage of the T-Track system that runs around the top apron of my bench. It is designed to sit on the end of my bench and is fully adjustable to accommodate the common rail & style sizes I use. For benches without a T-Track system, a modified version of this jig could easily be made that utilizes standard bench clamps.

Episode #95 - Cherry Fine Art Print Bin Delivery

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Fri, 27 Feb 2009 22:03:00 +0000

This project was a commission for The Clearwater Gallery in Sisters, Oregon. It was built with wild Oregon cherry I purchased from Hardwood Components, Inc . . . a local family run hardwood mill that specializes in native Oregon hardwoods. After getting some rough dimensions from the gallery, I worked out the design for the project over several evening using SketchUp.

Gallery owner Julia loading fine art prints

I used my vacuum press to veneer the bottom of the shelf with rift-sawn cherry and to press the carpet covered shelf insert. Finish schedule was two coats 1/2# clear shellac to minimize blotching followed by a single coat of 1# amber shellac and 6 coats of wet sanded Original Formula Waterlox. A final buffing with two coats of clear wax finished off the project.

Episode #94 – A Fine Art Print Bin

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Tue, 24 Feb 2009 20:18:00 +0000

A Fine Art Print Bin Made From
Wild Oregon Cherry

Pressing the Carpeted Support Panel with a Vacuum Press

I just completed the art print bin being built for The Clearwater Gallery in Sisters, Oregon. This was a commissioned piece to hold shrink-wrapped art prints in the gallery. The owners felt that a wooden print bin would fit the character of the gallery better than a commercial steel bin.

Completed Fine-Art Print Bin

The design was worked out with SketchUp and finalized with a mock-up built with pine and MDF using a Kreg Jig and pocket screw joinery. The only change from the original design was to increase the height of the back support and to add a set of lower supports between the legs.

Original SketchUp Rendering

SketchUp Working Perspective

Pine & MDF Mock-Up

Final SketchUp Rendering

The project was built with Wild Oregon Cherry that I got from a family run hardwood mill. I showcased Hardwood Components, Inc. in Episode #86. For storage and portability, the design features a knock down system using black oxide allen-head cap screws, brass washers and threaded steel inserts. The print bin shelf is veneered with rift sawn cherry and covered with black commercial carpet to provide support and traction for the art prints.

Leg Detail

Leg Leveler Detail

Carpeted Shelf Support

The support legs have an adjustable leveler to help remove any rocking on uneven floors in the gallery. The floors are wonderfully finished original wood with a lot of character, including a couple of bullet holes from a prior conflict when the gallery was a store that catered to early loggers working in the nearby forests.

A Brass Makers-Mark Completes the Project!

Delivery to the gallery is scheduled for tomorrow.

Episode #93 - A Print Bin . . . My Next Project

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Wed, 18 Feb 2009 05:51:00 +0000

Original Concept

My next project is well underway. I have been working hard to get this project designed and built in time for delivery this month. Because of the rush, I haven't been very good at recording the project progress. I am building a "print bin" for The Clearwater Gallery in Sisters, Oregon.

Initial Thoughts in SketchUp

The purpose of a print bin is to hold art prints that have been shrunk wrapped on foam core. This project is being built from the wild Oregon cherry I picked up at Hardwood Components in Episode #86.

Final Design with Taller Back,
Lower Braces & More Graceful Leg Profile

I started out playing with ideas in SketchUp and then built a full sized mock-up out of inexpensive pine and MDF. Once I convinced myself the design was sound I had it reviewed by the owners of the gallery. The only modification suggestion was to extend the back approximately six inches to provide better support of the print collection. This was a quick change in SketchUp. After that I was off dimensioning stock.

Quick Mock-Up of Pine & MDF
with Pocket Screw Joinery

This project breaks down for easy storage and transportation. It bolts together with 1/4-20 x 1 black oxide button head bolts, brass washers and steel threaded inserts. Full plans and completed photos to follow. I am busy applying finish so I can deliver at the end of the month!

Episode #92 - Scroll Saw Blade Holder

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Sat, 31 Jan 2009 07:48:00 +0000

A Six-Tube Scroll Saw Blade Holder

This was a quick and fun shop project. The material came from a small 2/4 board of gum cherry that was left over from another project. It took care to wrap the grain with respect to the sides and back. I almost missed this and had a “T-Chisel” event which caused me to re-do part of the project. Well, actually I had no choice, as I know the recipient has a critical eye!

This is a six-tube scroll saw blade holder designed for a woodworker that will be doing a fair amount of scroll saw work for marquetry. It was specifically designed to accommodate a small assortment of saw blades, drill bits and an Archimedes drill necessary for efficient marquetry work at the scroll saw. I initially considered applying an antique patina to the copper drill holder. Given the sailing bent of this woodworker, I elected to leave a brightly polished tube reminiscent of the bright copper and brass work found on sailboats. All in all, a nautical theme and an excuse to incorporate metal in a woodworking project.

The small pieces were cut square with my new crosscut sled. I used SketchUp to make and adhesive drill guide template to accurately drill the ¾” holes for the scroll saw blade storage tubes. The copper drill tube was fashioned from standard off the shelf plumbing parts polished with a series of charged buffing wheels on the drill press. A small test tube sits in a ½” hole for drill bit storage.

The finish was my standard cherry finish, two ½# cut coats of clear shellac to prevent blotching followed by 6 coats of thinned WaterLox finished with two coats of hand rubbed clear wax. The final touches are my brass makers-mark and 4 thin silicone rubber feet.

This project is now in the mail on its way to an exciting shop! I’ve included a set of links for materials, supplies and inspiration for this project. Plans are also available to jump start your scroll saw blade holder. Organization and readily available tools always makes for more efficient shop production and, hopefully, more inspired work!

Useful Scroll Saw Blade Holder Resources

Six-Tube Scroll Saw Blade Holder Plan Set

Shellac Part I

Shellac Part II

Archimedes Drill – Garrett Wade

Sloan's Woodshop - " The Scroll Saw Store"

WaterLox

Episode #91 - Using SketchUp For Project Templates

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Sat, 31 Jan 2009 05:00:00 +0000

Using SketchUp to Make Project Templates

I just finished a project that required boring a series of eight accurately spaced holes. I did the original design work for the project using SketchUp. Now, at best, I am a fledgling user of SketchUp. After all, I'm excited to say I just figured out how to use the "Follow Me" tool! It is a great tool and I eagerly soak up any information I can which helps me become a better and more facile user. One thing I do know, just like any other activity (i.e. cutting dovetails) the more you practice the better you become.

I used one portion of my SketchUp drawing to make a drilling guide template. I’ve done this before with great success, most recently using SketchUp to design the curve profile for a corbel that supported a cedar outdoor towel rack. Using SketchUp to make a project template gives me the chance to work out design options and accurately locate center point placement.

If you haven’t yet given SketchUp a test drive, consider doing so as it will most definitely become a valuable tool. Its great for doodling sketches of future projects and finalizing the design of the next project you take to the shop. Just remember, the more you use it the better you will become!

Some Useful SketchUp Resources for Woodworkers

Google SketchUp

Fine Woodworking's Design, Click & Build Blog

Fine Woodworking Article - A Quick Course in SketchUp: This powerful 3D drawing program is easy to use-and it's free. Tim Killen

Dave Richards Very Cool Lumberjocks SketchUp Blog: Dave's SketchUp Blather

The SketchUp Show Podcast

Steve’s Cutlist and Layout Plugin for Sketchup

Episode #90 - Hide Glue Primer

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Tue, 27 Jan 2009 22:13:00 +0000

I am interested in hide glue for a number of reasons. The first of which is the "romance" of using a traditional method that has its foundations as far back as Ancient Egypt and the cabinet shops of Colonial America. I also appreciate the pace of using hide glue . . . slow while getting set-up and quick when applying the glue. I also like the reversibility of hide glue and the fact that it accepts stain and finish without leaving telltale glue marks like that pesky spot of PVA that you missed during final clean up. All that said, hide glue is not the main glue in my shop, but I am adding it to my shop armamentarium. You can experiment with this fascinating and historic glue inexpensively. Trust me, you won't regret the adventure!

A Hide Glue Primer

Properties of hide glue

Hide glue is thermoplastic - softens to a liquid state when warmed and solidifies when cool
Hide glue is hydroscopic - in other words, it has an affinity for water which means, for wood working purposes, it responds to some degree with changes in relative humidity just as wood does and more importantly, a hide glue joint can be "reversed" with warm water
Hide glue is an animal protein (collagen) - when hide glue cools (dries) the protein structure contracts (on a molecular level) which has the effect of clamping
Hide glue grading - hide glue is graded in terms of "gram strength" (GEEK FACTOID: gram strength is a measure of how many grams of force it requires to depress a 1/2” plunger 4mm. into a 12.5% protein solution of the glue at 10° C). Hide glue gram strengths range from 85 to 379. The important point to know is the higher the gram strength, the quicker the set. The general recommendation range for for woodworking applications is 135 - 251 gram strength (192 or 195 is considered the all around glue for most woodworking applications).

Some Work Flow Considerations for Using Hide Glue

Mix a large batch of hide glue and pour into a set of ice cube trays. Store the premixed "hide glue cubes" in the freezer. Add the cubes to the glue pot as needed to keep a batch of working hide glue ready at the bench.
The general rule of thumb for mixing hide glue is one cup of dry glue to one cup water, vary the amount of water depending on the desired consistency. Add the glue to the water and allow to soak for 30 minutes. Stir occasionally while gently heating to 140 F°. Be careful to not "cook" the glue as this will weaken the glue by breaking down the protein molecular chains.
On a day when you are planning on working with hide glue, the second thing to be turned on after the shop lights is the glue pot!
Your glue pot can be covered with plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator overnight. After a week of use (heat-cool-heat) it is best to discard and start with a fresh batch.

Modifications to Hide Glue

To make hide glue liquid at room temperature (longer open time / slower drying) add approximately 5 tablespoons of urea for each cup of dry glue.
To make hide glue be made waterproof add 1/2-1% aluminum sulfate.
To make hide glue flexible add approximately 5% glycerin (based on the weight of glue), with increasing increments of 2-3% to achieve greater flexibility.
To increase the " wetting properties" of hide glue add approximately 1% vinegar.

The Basics of Hammer Veneering with Hot Hide Glue

Both surfaces are brushed with glue and placed together. The top veneer surface is also coated with glue to act as a lubricant. The "hammer" is then pushed across the veneer surface from the center outward to force out the excess glue. The glue will begin to cool and gel immediately and holding the veneer in place. For large work surfaces, make sure the surface is warm. Have a heat source (heat lamp) nearby for a longer working time.

Hide Glue & Veneering References

The definitive hide glue resource and "hide glue guru" is Eugene Thorndahl of Bjorn Industries in North Carolina. Eugene has the most experience with hide glue. Bjorn Industries has the widest variety available of hide glue gram strengths.

Bjorn Industries
(704) 364-1186

This link provides a good photo essay of mixing up a batch of hide glue on the Frets.com website.

Hide Glue Resources on Fine Woodworking.com

A great source for the "gold standard" for glue pots . . . Hold-Heet Glue Pots

The Best Things

Hide Glue Brushes

Make Your Own Hide Glue Brush!

Patrick Edwards - Old Brown Glue

Episode #89 - Make a Hide Glue Brush

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Tue, 27 Jan 2009 05:30:00 +0000

Make Your Own (Non-Metallic)
Hide Glue Brush!

I have been gearing up for a particular project. In preparation I have been doing a bit of research on using hide glue. For the purist, it is best to use a glue brush without a metal ferrule. The reasoning behind this is the metal ferrule can potentially cause a black stain. There are brushes available for hide glue but there are rather expensive. For the time being, I am spending shop funds on materials and tools.

The focus of this blog is to show an inexpensive alternative to an expensive glue brush. Perhaps just enough to experiment before making a decision to purchase a brush or continue to make your own.

To make your own hide glue brush, all you need is an inexpensive chip brush, a sail needle, and some waxed sail cord. Start by removing the metal ferrule and drilling 3/16 holes in the indentations left by the ferrule. Next, sand the bristle bundle flat so it will mate up with the end of the brush handle.

The following photos show how to stitch the bristle bundle on to the end of the brush handle. It is pretty easy to do with a sail needle . . . just take your time. Tie square knots and keep everything neat and snug!

The next step is a bit more complicated. However, if you have the courage to remove the metal ferrule and sand a bristle bundle flat than you are up for whipping the handle end! Whipping is a type of knot that secures the end of a rope and is perfect for finishing your glue brush. For the sailors and Boy Scouts in the crowd this will be a snap!

This is the result when you are done . . . a perfect brush for use with hide glue. Now all you need is some hide glue and a glue pot!

Some Interesting Glue Brush Links

Solo Horton Brushes

Tools For Working Wood - Glue Brushes

Demco

Indiana University Libraries Preservation Department

Episode #88 - Wood Defect Repair

usnerdoc@mac.com (David R. Pruett) — Tue, 27 Jan 2009 05:12:00 +0000

This episode features a quick video with some tips showing how to repair a wood defect with colored epoxy and cyanoacrylate glue (CA Glue).

Why do I need to do this you might ask. Well I am working on a small project from a single board of cherry with some really interesting grain. It is a small box type project and I worked hard to match the grain. As a result, I have no extra material so I had to push forward and make a small inconspicuous repair of a series if thin checks and a small crack. I think these features add character and interest to cherry.