Out of the loop? Do a search for “Bobby Petrino motorcycle accident”.

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James asked:

I’ve had my sv for 1 season now. I get about 124 miles on my tank or 200 km (I’m from Canada). when I bought the bike it had Power commander . 2 brothers exaust and k and n air filter. is this normal.. I deffinitely dont think so… what should I do to see what is wrong

There are far too many factors involved for me to give you a definite answer.

Some things to consider:

• Modern bikes come lean from the factory (for improved fuel economy and pollution control). If the fuel map in your Power Commander is making the fuel mixture more rich, this will use more fuel.
• Miles per tank is not a good figure for tracking fuel mileage, because it’s nearly impossible to gauge how much gas is remaining at the bottom of the tank or how much gas is put in at every fill. Save your gas receipts and start tracking miles per gallon, or kilometers per liter. This will give you a baseline to compare against.
• Your riding style makes a great deal of difference in how much fuel you burn. The more you twist the throttle, the more gas you’ll use.
• Riding in stop-and-go traffic is hell on fuel mileage. Conversely, the best fuel mileage I’ve ever gotten from an SV was when I rode at a rock-steady 70 miles per hour on an entire tank of gas.¹
• Winter gasoline blends have more oxygen blended in, and thus lower energy content. You’ll see less fuel mileage with winter blends.

My take? If you’re into riding two wheels for the fuel mileage, get a scooter. During the winter months, I’m lucky to get 35 MPG when I use my SV to commute daily. If I were smart, I’d ride the DR200 for its 70 MPG.

1. I got 68.5 MPG in case you’re wondering.

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I’ve been reading Deep Survival: Who Lives, Who Dies, and Why, a book about those who live to make it home — and those who don’t.

It’s a book that attempts to explain why reasonable people do unreasonable things. Things like riding a snowmobile straight up a snow-laden hillside under a severe avalanche warning. Or choosing to raft down a river swollen with floodwater. Things that never seem to end well.

It’s a thought-provoking book, particularly for those of us who enjoy some of life’s more adventurous pursuits, like carving up mountain corners or riding fully-loaded bikes across rain-slicked precipices.

And, it even has some sections directly relevant to my interests:

Now, as we accelerated above [the land], touching it but lightly, it was soft as angora. But if my motion was disturbed, then this delicous frothy blanket would erupt into a thousand shards of rock and scalding sand, and all would resolve at once into the harsh reality of this lifeless lake. That’s what falling was all about. Riding was transcendental; it was rolling the karmic wheel in order to ascend with angels out of the temporal hell of the flesh. Falling was to reenter the world as it was, the low world. Falling, we were all fallen angels.

It’s a good book. I recommend it.

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Faab asked:

I am planning to change the coolant with a premix coolant of Castrol.
Castrol is off course a well known brand.

In the technical PDF is written:
“Castrol Motorcycle Coolant is not recommended for engines a magnesium alloy”

Question now:
Do you know if the engine uses a magnesium alloy?

This is a great question, but one that I’m going to have to answer in a roundabout way. Why? Because I’ve been unable to find a reliable, definitive source that can confirm that the SV650′s engine does not use any magnesium alloys.

So, let’s approach the question from a different angle.

Traditionally, magnesium alloys have been used in Volkswagen air-cooled engines and certain high-end vehicles.

…Porsche used magnesium alloy for its engine blocks due to the weight advantage. There is renewed interest in magnesium engine blocks, as featured in the 2006 BMW 325i and 330i models. — Wikipedia, Magnesium, Applications

In my experience, a vehicle that has specific requirements due to uncommon characteristics will have wording to that effect in the service (or owner’s) manuals. Here’s what the official Suzuki SV650 Service Manual says about coolant:

Use a high quality ethylene glycol based anti-freeze, mixed with distilled water. Do not mix an alcohol base anti-freeze with different brands of anti-freeze.

Note that there’s no mention of anything out of the ordinary aside from using high quality ethylene glycol. This matches my long-standing assumption that the SV650 — like the vast majority of motorcycles produced today — has an engine primarily made out of aluminum.

I use Pro Honda HP coolant in my SV, which is ethylene glycol based like the Castrol Premixed Motorcycle coolant you mentioned. The Honda coolant says it’s “specifically designed for use in aluminum engines.” I’ve been running Honda coolant in my SV for a few years now and have experienced zero issues with my engine or cooling system. Does that prove anything? Not really.

Long story short: I’m pretty darn sure that Pro Honda and Castrol motorcycle coolants are safe for use in an SV650 because its engine is aluminum. Am I 100% sure? No, at least until an engineer at Suzuki writes me back with a definitive answer.

One last thing: The second half of Suzuki’s coolant recommendation is very important. If you’re switching to a different kind of coolant in your SV than before, make sure to completely flush the cooling system with distilled water. You do not want any of the old coolant to remain in the system as different coolants have different additives which can react badly when mixed.

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I have no idea of the original source of this image.

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In this guide, we’ll flush the brake fluid in a 2007 SV650. These instructions should work for second generation (model year 2003 and onwards) SV650 models. First gen SV owners should also be able to follow these same basic instructions, with minor modifications. For the final word, consult your owner’s manual.

This guide is for those who are new to wrenching so it’s written at an exhaustive level of detail. If you’re experienced at performing your own maintenance, click here to skip right to the summary.

WARNING! Working on brakes requires patience and attention to detail. A mistake could be deadly. If you are at all unsure about what you’re doing, STOP and consult an experienced mechanic. By reading this guide, you are agreeing to this website’s disclaimer.

Step 1: Gather the Required Tools

• 8mm wrench
• 10 mm socket
• ratchet wrench and short extension
• phillips screwdriver
• 4mm hex (allen) wrench (if working on rear brake)
• 1/4″ flexible tubing (preferably clear plastic)
• container to hold used brake fluid (preferably clear plastic)

Step 2: A Note About Brake Fluid

You must start with a new and unopened bottle of DOT4 brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means that it will absorb moisture from the surrounding atmosphere. More moisture in brake fluid results in a lower boiling point, and boiling brake fluid is a very bad thing. You’d like your bike to stop when you squeeze the lever, don’t you?

Brake fluid hygroscopy is the reason why Suzuki recommends that you change the brake fluid in your SV650 every 2 years. Even though the brake fluid is in a closed system, moisture in the atmosphere can still pass through brake lines and seals.

Step 3: Remove the Master Cylinder Cover

If you are flushing the front brakes, locate the front master cylinder. On a naked SV (SV650N), the front master cylinder is the metal box attached to the front brake lever perch. On an S model, the front master cylinder is the plastic cylinder mounted near the front brake lever perch.

If you are flushing the rear brakes, locate the rear master cylinder, which is a translucent plastic box tucked under the seat on the right side of the bike.

Before you begin, remember that BRAKE FLUID WILL EAT YOUR PAINT so make sure to place some rags underneath the master cylinder to catch any drips.

If you accidentally spill brake fluid on a painted surface, immediately flush the area with lots of clean water. Do not rub.

The screws on the rear master cylinder cover are nearly impossible to remove without pulling the cylinder assembly away from the bike. Use the 4mm hex (allen) wrench to remove the bolt holding the plastic trim cover in place. Gently pull the trim cover to remove it from the bike. Then, use the 10 mm socket to loosen the rear master cylinder mounting bolt.

Then, pull the rear master cylinder clear so the cover screws are accessible.

Next, use the phillips screwdriver to remove the master cylinder screws. The screws are soft and easily stripped, so take care when removing them.

Remove the thin rubber seal that sits under the cover and set it aside. The master cylinder is now open.

Step 4: Set Up the Bleeder

Locate the bleeder on the caliper. The following photo shows the location of the bleeder on the rear caliper. The front bleeders look exactly the same.

Remove the rubber cap.

Then, place the 8mm wrench over the bleeder nut. Do not start turning the wrench. Simply fit the wrench in place.

Take the flexible plastic tubing and fit one end over the bleeder nipple. The other end of the tubing goes into the used brake fluid receptacle. Your setup should look something like this:

Step 5: Flush

Flushing the brake fluid requires the following basic steps:

1. Pump the (rear) pedal or (front) lever a few times.
2. Open the nut on the bleeder using the wrench.
3. Slowly pump the pedal or lever while keeping an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder so that it does not drop below the LOW marking.
4. Close the nut on the bleeder.
5. Add new fluid to the master cylinder.
6. Repeat.

By pumping the pedal or lever, you’re building pressure in the brake system. This helps the fluid to flow when you open the bleeder valve. While the bleeder is open, pumping the pedal or lever will force the fluid out the bleeder, into the tubing, and eventually into the container.

It’s crucial to keep the fluid level in the master cylinder high enough so that air is not sucked into the system. Like moisture, air has a negative impact on the effectiveness of the braking system.

These are the basic steps I follow when I work by myself. If you can find someone to help, you can streamline the process by asking them to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder and add new fluid as you pump the old fluid out of the system.

Step 6: Bleeding the Brakes

When you’re sure that you’ve flushed out all of the old fluid, repeat the basic steps again and look for tiny air bubbles in the clear tubing. Keep repeating the basic steps until air bubbles no longer exit the caliper. (This is also known as “bleeding the brakes.”)

Once the old fluid has been replaced with new and there are no more trapped air bubbles in the system, close the bleeder valve nut. Use the remaining new brake fluid to fill the master cylinder.¹ Put the rubber seal back in place and replace the master cylinder cover, taking care not to over-tighten the cover screws. Remove the tubing from the bleeder nipple — watch out for brake fluid drips — and replace the bleeder cap.

Now, pump the lever or pedal. It will feel “soft”. Keep pumping until the feel firms up. Don’t worry, it may take a little while to build enough pressure.

Sit on the bike and put it into neutral. Slowly roll the bike forward (or backwards) a few inches and test the brake action. The brakes should work properly and bring the bike to a complete stop.

DO NOT RIDE until you check your work AND test the brakes. Even then, take it easy on your first ride and give yourself plenty of stopping distance.

After flushing the front brakes, the front brake lever may feel a little softer than usual. So what I do is use a strap to squeeze the lever against the throttle grip and let the bike sit that way overnight. By the next morning, the lever will feel better than ever.

Summary

• 8mm wrench
• 10 mm socket
• ratchet wrench and short extension
• phillips screwdriver
• 4mm hex (allen) wrench (if working on rear brake)
• 1/4″ flexible tubing (preferably clear plastic)
• container to hold used brake fluid (preferably clear plastic)

Buy a new and unopened bottle of DOT4 brake fluid.

1. Remove the master cylinder cover.
2. Fit wrench over bleeder nut and attach tubing to bleeder nipple.
3. Place the other end of the tubing into container.
4. Pump the lever or pedal, then open the bleeder valve and pump to flush out the fluid.
5. Add new fluid while preventing air from entering the system.
6. Once the fluid has been replaced in the system, bleed the brakes.
7. TEST BRAKES BEFORE RIDING!

Fin.

1. The rear and SV650S front master cylinders have “H” (high) markings. The SV650N front master cylinder should be filled to the top of the sightglass.

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That’s the plan, yes.

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I’ve been known to keep an eye on the phrases entered into search engines that caused people to stumble across this humble blog. Sometimes these plaintive cries for help are even answered.

This particular search query was too good to pass up:

Is Stacy at bolty a girl?

SPOILER ALERT!!!!

Yes.

Now, I’ve been told that I write like a man, so I can understand a little confusion. But I bet Fuzzygalore’s never gotten this question!

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Just a hint of what I’m going to be up to for the next 10 weeks or so.

One of the perks of being an employee at a land-grant university — cheap tuition!

Kyle, your request may be fulfilled sooner than you think.

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… but I’ve found myself in a bit of a rough patch personally and professionally, and fighting a two-front war has left little room for much of anything else.

Riding doesn’t bring me much joy anymore, to be honest. I ride to work. I ride back home. I repeat this 5 days a week. It’s transportation, not therapy.

As for this blog, it’s certainly not going away, but updates are going to be infrequent — at least until I can get my shit back together again. If you’d like to be informed when I resume posting new stuff, toss your email this way.

What a depressing post. Sorry about that! I appreciate every one of you who’ve been following along these past five¹ years. I look forward to many years more — if I can just clear this neverending series of whoops…

1. Wow, seriously, 5 years of blogging already? Just realized this and it kinda blows my mind a little.