The Boulder Wine Blog

GET OUT AND VOTE!!!

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Mon, 03 Nov 2008 14:08:00 +0000

Drink Red Wine, Live Longer?

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Wed, 04 Jun 2008 16:52:00 +0000

A new study has been published indicating that resveratrol, a compound found in red wine, is probably much more effective at improving overall health than previously thought. For those of us who enjoy a glass or two or red wine with dinner, this is welcome news.

In an article published today in the New York Times, Nicholas Wade writes, "Red wine may be much more potent than was thought in extending human lifespan, researchers say in a new report that is likely to give impetus to the rapidly growing search for longevity drugs. The study is based on dosing mice with resveratrol, an ingredient of some red wines." full article

Burgundy Tasting at Superior Liquor on Feb. 23rd

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Wed, 13 Feb 2008 02:57:00 +0000

Zephyr Adventures has teamed up with Superior Liquor to promote its newest wine travel destination - Burgundy! Zephyr's six day, five night Burgundy Walking Wine Adventure tour aims to keep travelers out of the van and in the vineyards to learn first hand about the very special wines from this unique region. Boulder's own Allan Wright of Zephyr Adventures will be enticing potential travelers with free samples of Burgundy wines at Superior Liquor on Saturday, February 23rd from 2 PM - 6 PM. He will also be available to answer any questions about this or other wine adventures offered by Zephyr. For more information contact either Superior Liquor or Zephyr Adventures.

Book Review: To Cork or Not To Cork

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Wed, 06 Feb 2008 02:54:00 +0000

Although cork has enjoyed a monopoly as the wine bottle closure of choice for several hundred years, the use of cork has recently become one of the most hotly debated topics in wine today. When it comes to cork everyone seems to have an opinion, and usually it is a strong one. Unfortunately, most of these opinions are based on emotion, and few are based on fact. In To Cork or Not To Cork George M. Taber dispels much of the myth, mystery and misinformation surrounding the debate over cork.

Before To Cork or Not To Cork most of the data from studies on closures had been scattered among trade journals, conference notes and private industry. Even in the digital age, it was difficult for those whose livelihood depended it to make informed decisions about closures, and consumers were for the most part left in the dark - sometimes as strategy. Taber's ability to research a topic rivals that of David McCullough. He conducted countless interviews with winery owners, lab consultants, cork industry professionals, winemakers, and inventors and manufacturers of alternative closures. He scoured through numerous studies examining the performance of different closures, and he presents the information in a format which is both incredibly informative and entertaining. In fact, at times To Cork or Not To Cork reads more like a suspense novel than a book on cork taint.

Taber takes his readers on a journey through wine closure history from the time wine was stored in large clay amphorae and sealed with mud, to modern times in which we have primarily used cork to seal glass bottles. Recently, however, in a reaction to problems with cork quality, producers have been experimenting with closures such as the crown cap, screw cap, plastic plugs, technical corks and glass stoppers. The studies Taber cites on the performance of both cork and alternative closures are fascinating and at times complicated, but his clear and concise writing keeps those of us who were not Chemistry majors from becoming lost. His framework of poignant and entertaining anecdotes is the perfect backdrop for a subject that is probably considered mundane by most.

No matter what your opinion on closures is now, it will likely be different after reading To Cork or Not To Cork. I am not suggesting that you will shift radically from one camp to the other, but you will have much more information from which to draw. Like all great debates, each side has its merits and faults. Taber presents research and anecdotal evidence supporting both sides of the debate, and at times you might find yourself leaning toward whatever side is being presenting at the moment. Taber does not tell the reader there is right or wrong in this debate. He leaves the final verdict for the reader to decide. Even the casual wine drinker will find this book enjoyable, but for the connoisseur, collector, winemaker or cellar rat To Cork or Not To Cork is a must read.

2005 Le Vieux Donjon, Chateauneuf-duPape

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Fri, 16 Nov 2007 04:16:00 +0000

Chateauneuf-du-Pape is a great Autumn wine, and I have been drinking quite a bit of it lately. Current releases are from the fantastic 2005 vintage. It seems like in 2005 you couldn't go wrong in the Southern Rhone. No matter what style of wine you wanted to make, Mother Nature cooperated. So, it was of little surprise to see a Chateauneuf-du-Pape among the top three in Wine Spectator's Top 100 Wines of the Year for 2007.

I purchased three bottles of Le Vieux Donjon from Liquor Mart (Boulder,CO) a few months ago as part of a mixed case of Chateauneuf-du-Pape of my choice. By the way, if you live in the area you can get 25% off cases of wine at Liquor Mart through Decmber 31, 2007 by following this link - 25% OFF!!! I was planning on cellaring them for several years before opening a bottle as most CdP's need a few years of rest to come together and start drinking well. However, because it was announced today that the 2005 Le Vieux Donjon was voted the #3 wine of 2007 by Wine Spectator, I could not resist giving it a taste.

As in 2003, 2005 was very warm in the Southern Rhone. The wines tend to be big, muscular, rich and modern. In 2005 Le Vieux Donjon was able to take advantage of these growing conditions and produced a wine with enough fruit to reflect the heat of the growing season, but enough restraint to show that it is a traditional wine at the core.

Tasting Notes: The 2005 Le Vieux Donjon is made from 75 percent Grenache, 15 percent Syrah and 10 percent Mourvedre and Cinsault. It is surprisingly drinkable now, but this one will be a stunner in just a few short years. It has a nose of cherries, raspberries, roasted meats, and white truffles. The palate reveals notes of cherries, strawberries, pepper, olives, licorice and Provencal herbs. It has medium body, but its structure gives it a sense of weight and depth one would not expect from looking at the wine in the glass. Made with traditional winemaking techniques, including cement fermentation tanks and aged foudres, the 2005 Le Vieux Donjon is a great Chateauneuf-du-Pape from a great vintage, and a wonderful representation of the appellation. 92 pts. find it

1999 Cardinale Proprietary Red

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Wed, 17 Oct 2007 02:50:00 +0000

Winery: Cardinale

Wine: 1999 Cardinale Proprietary Red

Winemaker: Charles Thomas

Appellation: 53% Napa Valley, 47% Sonoma

Estimated Cost: $90

Cardinale, which is one of Jess Jackson's boutique wineries, has always been one of my favorite walk-in tastings in the Napa Valley. The winery is located just north of Yountville on Highway 29. The tasting room is usually uncrowded, and they have a beautiful, large balcony with great views to the north overlooking the entire valley. Recently, however, they changed their format to tasting by appointment only. The tastings are now guided by a wine educator and include artisanal cheeses as well. Such tastings can be very educational, but I usually prefer to taste on my own without the influence of a winery representative telling me what the wine tastes like or what score was given by what critic. Nonetheless, the wines are top flight, the views are fantastic, and $35 is a very fair price to pay for tasting several vintages of wine which sells for $125 per bottle upon release. Click here to arrange a tasting.

Tasting Notes: The 1999 Cardinale Proprietary Red is an elegant red consisting of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot. More recent vintages seem to be made from grapes grown in Napa County, but the '99 Cardinale includes 47% Sonoma County fruit. The wine has a powerful, deep and complex nose. Notes of Black cherries, blackberries, hoisin sauce, chocolate and new leather emerge as it sits in the glass. The mouth feel is elegant, rich and expansive with beautifully firm structure. Enjoy this one with Colorado lamb. Although it seems to be difficult to find at less than $90, keep an eye out for this one on either WineBid.com or WineCommune.com. You might be able to find some in the mid-seventies on either of these two auction sites. 93 points. find it

2002 Dominus Estate Proprietary Red

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Thu, 27 Sep 2007 05:28:00 +0000

Winery: Dominus Estate

Wine: 2002 Proprietary Red

Winemaker: Christian Moueix and team

Appelation: Yountville, CA

Estimated Cost: $125

The 2002 Dominus Proprietary Red is a great wine, maybe even a classic. Dominus Estate is owned and managed by Christian Moueix, who's family also owns ten chateaux in Bordeaux including Chateau Petrus - one of the world's most sought after wines. Christian Moueix oversees the operations of each of the ten properties owned by the Moueix family. I found this wine to be a perfect balance of European elegance and California power. The blend consists of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot, and 3% Merlot. The wine spent approximately 18 months in barrels, 40% of which were new. In the glass it is deep ruby/purple at the core and a lighter, garnet red at the rim. Its alluring nose is rich with blackberries, cassis, wet stone, smoke and licorice. On the palate, the '02 Dominus delivers tons of ripe, red raspberries, black cherries, blackberries, crushed rocks and mocha wrapped around a core of firm, finely grained, sweet tannins, which gracefully expand and unfold while contributing to this wine's sixty second finish. The oak is present, but subtle and lends a hand only when asked. The '02 Dominus is evolving at a glacial pace for a Napa red, and its substantial structure suggests that it will be at least another five years before this wine is fully mature. Decanting this complex and concentrated wine several hours in advance of consuming it will greatly enhance its performance. 95+ pts. find it

Denver Food & Wine Classic

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Fri, 07 Sep 2007 12:03:00 +0000

The Colorado Restaurant Association and Southern Wine & Spirits really did a fantastic job of organizing what was a wonderful event. If you live in the Denver area and are at all interested in food and wine do not miss this event next year. The ticket price of $50 is nothing short of a bargain as you will likely consume at least $75 worth of food and wine. The wines were all selected by Southern Wine & Spirits and were premium wines for the most part. Although Southern includes a few luxury wines in their catalog, they were not being poured at this event. It is possible, though, that they were available in the VIP section, which I did not explore.

I tasted over 40 wines at the event, however, if I found the wine to be innocuous, poor or pinot noir I most likely did not assign a score. I kid pinot noir, really. It makes decent wine, but a good one is just very hard to come by. The food was provided by area restaurants, which included locally owned establishments as well as chains. In fact, one of the best food samples served was Outback Steakhouse's seared Yellowtail. It was sashimi like in that it was just kissed by the grill and melted in the mouth.

If it had been a competition I would have given Best in Show to the 2005 Far Niente Chardonnay, which I reviewed in a previous post. The following is a list of wines and scores from the event. Normally I use Robert Parker's 100 point scale to assign ratings, but because I was tasting so many different wines in such a short period of time in an uncontrolled environment I used the 10 point scale (borrowed from Alder Yarow's Vinography) for this event. The wines within each category are listed in no particular order.
Wines rated 9.0 - 9.5
1. 2005 Far Niente Chardonnay
2. 2006 Dr. Loosen Bernkasteler Lay Kabinett

Wines Rated 9.0
1. 2005 Summerland Winery Paradise Road Viogner
2. 2005 Conundrum
3. 2005 Dutton Goldfield, Dutton Ranch Russian River Chardonnay

Wines Rated 8.5 - 9.0
1. 2006 Dashwood Suvignon Blanc
2. 2006 Aussieres Blanc
3. 2006 Goldwater Sauvignon Blanc
4. 2006 Summerland Winery Pinot Noir Wolff Vineyard Edna Valley
5. 2005 Summerland Winery Chardonnay (Central Coast Collection)
6. 2004 Hanzell Vineyards Sonoma Chardonnay
7. 2006 Silver Unoaked Chardonnay
8. 2005 Nickel & Nickel Darien Vineyard Syrah
9. 2005 Nickel and Nickel Ponzo Vineyard Zinfandel
10. 2003 Trefethen Merlot
11. 2003 Swanson Merlot
12. 2005 Cosumano Nero d'Alvo

Wines rated 8.5
1. 2003 Castello di Meloeto Chianti Classico
2. 2005 Colosi Rosso
3. 2003 Raymond Merlot

Wines rated 8.0 - 8.5
1. 2003 Raymond Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
2. 2004 Dutton Ranch Cherry Ridge Vineyard Syrah

Denver Food & Wine Classic on Sunday, Aug. 26th

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Thu, 23 Aug 2007 18:20:00 +0000

Re-published from Denver Food & Wine Classic website:

Southern Wine & Spirits of Colorado and the Colorado Restaurant Association Education Fund are pleased to present the 3rd Annual Denver Food & Wine Classic presented by US Foodservice, the largest single-day food and wine tasting experience in Denver. Join more than 3,500+ food and wine enthusiasts on Sunday, August 26th from 1:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. on the Pepsi Center grounds for a tasting of more than 300 featured wines, spirits, and cuisine from over 30 of Denver’s finest restaurants, wine auction, steel chef competition and culinary demonstrations.

The goal of this event is to help raise funds for the Post-News Charities, the Colorado Restaurant Association Education Fund, and a new beneficiary this year, Kroenke Sports Charities, (Denver Nuggets, Colorado Avalanche, Colorado Mammoth, Colorado Rapids, Pepsi Center, CityLights Pavilion, Paramount Theatre), which provides fitness, education and recreation programs to thousands of children throughout the metro area each year. The Denver Food & Wine Classic hopes to raise more than $150,000 this year.

2003 Chateau Joanin Becot

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Mon, 20 Aug 2007 03:45:00 +0000

Wine: Ch. Joanin Becot

Appellation: Cotes De Castillon, Bordeaux

Winemaker: Sophie Porquet and Jean-Philippe Fort

Estimated Cost: $23

A few weeks ago I received an email from a reader named Chip which read, "Gee, Brad. Those wines sound great, but what about wines for cheap-asses like me?" Well, Chip... here is a great wine for a cheap-ass like you. Chateau Joanin Becot is located in Cotes de Castillon, which is an up and coming, but not widely known region of Bordeaux. Cotes de Castillon was not included in the Bordeaux Classification of 1855. In fact, it was not even a recognized Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée until 1989. Situated in the Right Bank just east of St. Emilion, Cotes de Castillion has become a hot spot for young, talented, entrepreneurial winemakers hoping to start their own labels. Real estate prices in the Medoc are cost prohibitive for such ventures partly due to the increasing trend of large corporations gobbling up established chateaux.

Merlot and Cabernet Franc are the most common varietals grown in Cotes de Castillon, but Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Petite Verdot are grown there as well. The wines vary in quality, but the good ones are often great values as they are much less expensive than wines of similar quality from other regions. The 2003 Joanin Becot is a fine example of the value to which I am referring. I love throwing this wine into the mix during blind tastings because it is guaranteed to pick off a few wines two and three times its price. Okay... I will admit the "Miracle on Ice" reference is a bit of a stretch, but this is still a damn good bottle of wine for under twenty-five bucks!

Tasting Notes: Dark, inky purple to the rim. Medium body, lots of ripe fruit with notes of plum, blueberry, blackberry and vanilla. 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc. Very nice structure suggesting this wine will improve with a little bit of age. Oak and tannins present, but integrated. Although very showy, opulent and hard to resist now, this wine should be a real beauty with just a few more years in the cellar. It is imperative to decant this wine a few hours before consumption. 91 points. Find it

Boulder Food & Wine Festival a Success

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Thu, 16 Aug 2007 02:36:00 +0000

Organizers, participants and attendees should be commended for helping to make Sunday's inaugural Boulder Food and Wine Festival a grand success. The festival included samples from some of Boulder's finest restaurants and wines from about twenty Colorado wineries. I was there early in the day, and attendance appeared to be very strong. The Daily Camera estimated attendance at about 2,000 people, which I do not believe to be exaggerated. Some of the highlights were Mateo's prosciutto and olives, Q's peach cobbler, a delicious veggie flatbread served by The Kitchen, and Aji had people lining up for seconds of their shrimp ceviche. The wines from Colorado have a long way to go before they can compete with wines from more prominent regions, but I didn't see anyone leaving the festival dissatisfied with the event. Boulder's food and wine scene is definitely coming of age, and the festival's impressive attendance shows the city's potential for more events like this. I just hope next year they'll be a little more accepting of Boulder's heritage and let me use the same entrance as everyone else.

Boulder Food & Wine Festival this Sunday

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Sat, 11 Aug 2007 17:30:00 +0000

Don't forget that the inaugural Boulder Food and Wine Festival is this Sunday, August 12 at Central Park in Boulder. If you are wondering where Central Park in Boulder is you are not alone. I have lived in Boulder for 17 years, and I was wondering the same thing. It turns out that the park with the band shell at the southeast corner of Canyon and Broadway has a name! The festival, which will feature Colorado wines along with creations from some of Boulder's finest chefs, runs from 12pm to 5pm. It will be a great opportunity for those of us who have not sampled many Colorado wines to see what this budding wine region has to offer. For more information visit Boulderwinefest.com. See you there!

1996 Chateau Lagrange, Saint Julien

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Thu, 09 Aug 2007 04:24:00 +0000

I really had no intention of opening up this bottle anytime soon, but in a response to a reader's comment regarding my review of the 1996 Leoville Barton I recommended the '96 Lagrange as a close second for about 40% less. Since it had been about four years since I tasted this wine, I figured I should taste it again to confirm that my memory has served me well. Unfortunately, my memory for this wine was about as good as Alberto Gonzales' memory of his own role in the firing of eight U.S. attorneys.

Ruby red, lots of wood on the nose with hints of red fruit, cigar box and leather. Although very good, it lacks the depth and complexity of the '96 Barton. The tannins feel as if they are predominately from the oak, and it is a bit thin and has a short finish. Lots of earthy notes as well, and although the '96 Lagrange isn't all that funky, here is a great shot of Bootsy anyhow. 88 points. find it

1996 Leoville Barton, St. Julien

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Thu, 26 Jul 2007 11:37:00 +0000

Producer: Chateau Leoville Barton
Vintage: 1996
Appellation: St. Julien, Bordeaux

A beautiful wine with lots of deep, rich, dark fruit, wet stone and leather. Ruby red/purple with no visible signs of fading. It completely takes over the palate, expanding and unfolding, with a finish that seems to go on and on. Don't worry that this wine is already eleven years old as it probably has another fifteen years of life left in it. We tasted this next to the 1990 Gruard Larose, which currently does not seem to be drinking nearly as well. Do not hesitate to look for other vintages of Leoville Barton, too, because their quality to price ratio is usually unsurpassed in Bordeaux. 93 points. find it

Larkmead, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Wed, 25 Jul 2007 11:46:00 +0000

Producer: Larkmead Vineyards
Wine: 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
Winemaker: Andy Smith
Estimated Cost: $50

Medium body. Tons of forward, red fruits such as cherry and raspberry with a handful of blackberries thrown in for good measure. Warm and soft with lots of oak. Inviting and pleasing with a moderate finish. Should be a crowd pleaser. 88 points.

What To Drink On My Birthday?

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Sun, 22 Jul 2007 01:43:00 +0000

Although I have a decent collection of nice wine, I have a hard time opening the really good stuff. No matter what the occasion I always find myself saying something like, Oh, it would be infanticide to open that one. Or I might think, I don't care if it is Thanksgiving, there were only 120 cases of this stuff imported. Other times I will look at what the wine is worth today and say to myself, No wine tastes that damn good! This wine is for selling, not for drinking. Although it pains me to do so, we decided that since Saturday was my birthday we would open up a couple of bottles of the good stuff.

We started with a beautiful chardonnay from one of the world's greatest terroirs, Batard-Montrachet. The wine was a 2001 Grand Cru from producer Bernard Morey. Although the '01 white Burgundies were for the most part overshadowed by the epic 2002 vintage, do not ignore 2001. There were some incredible wines produced in '01. While '02 generally produced rich, flamboyant wines with great fruit, the '01s I have tried have shown great structure and focus. In a blind tasting, however, I am sure I would guess the '01 B. Morey Batard-Montrachet to be an '02 due to it's richness and intensity. According to Burgundy Online, "While the white wines are in the barrels Bernard likes frequent batonnage (stirring up the lees or sediment at the bottom of the barrel to make wines thicker or “fatter”) and uses only natural yeasts." Golden in color, the wine is lush with notes of apple, pear, vanilla and lemon zest. The finish is extraordinary with creme brulee lingering on the palate for minutes. Although I do not believe this wine is available anymore, if you ever come across it I highly recommend you give it a try. 93 points.

We then moved on to one of our favorite Cabernets - Shafer Hillside Select. I have been hoarding a few bottles of the 1996 vintage, and as far as Napa Valley Cabernet goes it doesn't get much better than this. The '96 Hillside is at its pinnacle, so if you are holding onto any you will find that your patience has been rewarded. Fully mature, it has a rich bouquet of cherry reduction, cigar box, lavender, coffee and leather. Ruby red and medium bodied with firm, finely grained tannins, it feels like a top Pauillac in the mouth. Every component is so perfectly integrated that this wine is difficult to describe. The secondary flavors that come with maturation are present, but the wine has also retained its inviting array of lively red and black fruit. Lots of chocolate and espresso on the palate as well. 96 points. find this wine

Am I sad that I now have a few empty bottles of prized wine sitting in the recycling been? Not even a little bit. Both wines were drinking beautifully, and there is nothing worse than opening up what was once a great wine to find that it has passed its prime. Best of all, I was able to share the experience with my favorite tasting companion, traveling partner, dive buddy, cycling partner, confidant and best friend - my wife.

Marquis Philips, 2004 Shiraz 9

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Fri, 20 Jul 2007 20:51:00 +0000

Very dark, inky purple. Lots of dark fruits, berries, raisin and vanilla. Deeply extracted. Although this wine was made with top quality fruit, it's heat and oak can be overpowering. Not a subtle wine. Certainly fun and enjoyable, though. I have had this wine on several occasions, but I found a perfect pairing for it last night - consumed from a plastic cup at the movie theater while enjoying a tub of popcorn. 88 points. find it

Trespass Vineyard, Cabernet Franc

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Wed, 18 Jul 2007 01:45:00 +0000

While I was visiting Napa Valley a couple of years ago, my friend Geordie and I scheduled a day of tastings on Spring Mountain. This was much less of a commute for Geordie as he and his wife live at the top of Spring Mountain, almost directly on the Napa and Sonoma county line. I know.... I feel bad for them, too. The best tasting of the day went to Paloma Vineyards, which is owned and managed by Barb and Jim Richards. I'll write about them in a future post.

The worst tasting went to Philip Togni Vineyard where we were led around by the abrasive and arrogant Brigitta Togni, who was about as hospitable as one of Michael Vick's dogs. Before the tour and tasting each guest was interrogated by Brigitta in order to determine whether or not they were qualified to taste Togni's wines. We were also told how wonderful their wines are and that most other winemakers in the Napa Valley don't really know what they are doing. Apparently, none of us passed the interrogation because at the end of the tour we were each given a taste of their second label, Tanbark Hill - from a bottle which had been opened nine days earlier. Thanks for coming.

Overall, we had a great day. Our last tasting was at Pride Mountain Vineyards, and it was at Pride where I learned about Trespass Vineyard. I don't recommend tasting at Pride as their tasting room is more of a gift shop than a tasting room. Although their Reserve Cabernet is usually outstanding, the rest of their portfolio is good, but overpriced. They unfortunately do not even pour the Reserve Cab in their tasting room either, which is really the reason you just drove twenty-five minutes up the mountain. Thanks for coming.

The tasting room associate at Pride told me about a small, family-run winery at the base of the mountain called Trespass Vineyard, which produces about 600 cases per year of nice Cabernet Sauvignon. I called Trespass to schedule a tasting for the following day, and the owners, Donny and Dana Gallagher, were more than happy to accommodate us.

When the Gallaghers acquired their vineyard it was a small, undeveloped, five acre out lot at the end of a cul-de-sac sandwiched between Spottswoode Winery and a residential development. They immediately fell in love with the piece, and decided to fulfill their dream of starting their own label. There is no winery on the site, but the Gallaghers have built a small, stone patio in the middle of their vineyard for the purpose of hosting tastings and sharing their special property with others. The views from the base of the mountain are breathtaking, and on many evenings the Gallaghers find neighbors sitting on the patio in their vineyard enjoying a beautiful St. Helena sunset. The name Trespass is tongue-in-cheek as they happily invite others to enjoy their land.

The Gallaghers brought along a bottle of their 2002 Cabernet Franc to the tasting and offered it to us before we tasted the Cabernet Sauvignon. I immediately fell in love with this wine. I had not been very impressed with Napa Cabernet Francs up to this point, but Trespass gets it right. It is certainly not an "Old World" style Cab Franc with earthy, gamey notes and fierce tannins. On the contrary, St. Helena's warm climate and volcanic soils seem to coax all of the inviting, hedonistic characteristics of the grape to the forefront while leaving less desirable herbal properties behind. They had initially planted the Franc to blend with the Sauvignon, but realized during production that they had a "stand alone Cab Franc," and decided to bottle it separately.

I enjoyed the two vintages of Trespass Cabernet Sauvignon we tasted as well, but the Cabernet Franc is a unique and delicious wine not to be missed. I also highly recommend scheduling a tasting of Trespass with the Gallaghers if you are ever in the Napa Valley. It is an off the beaten path experience with great wine, great people, and great scenery that you won't soon forget.

Winery: Trespass Vineyard

Wine : 2002 Cabernet Franc

Winemaker: Charles Hendricks

Estimated Cost: $40 (find it)

Tasting Notes: Deep ruby/purple to the rim. Medium body and with a pretty nose. Gobs of blueberry, blackberry and Asian spice wrapped around a core of seamless, mouth filling tannins. Great, lingering finish. 93 points.

Winery: Trespass Vineyard

Wine: 2003 Cabernet Franc

Winemaker: Kirk Venge

Estimated Cost: $40 (find it)

Tasting Notes: Similar to the '02, but where the former can be popped and poured this one needs a few hours in the decanter to open up. A bit more restrained than the '02, which is typical for the vintage, this wine provides plenty of hedonistic, blue fruit and firm structure. The wine improves immensely as it sits in the glass. 91 points.

Seghesio Family Vineyard: Big Wines, Big Value

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Thu, 05 Jul 2007 05:12:00 +0000

Since our first child was about six months old my wife and I have been going out at least once a week for date night. Sometimes we go to the movies, sometimes (rarely) we'll go to the gym, but usually we'll go to a nice restaurant. Last night was date night, and we had a great bottle of wine with dinner. In fact, it was really great, and I was going to write about it today until I realized that it is Independence Day. The wine we had last night was a '96 Bordeaux, and no red blooded American writes about French wine on the Fourth of July. That would be akin to treason, no? I mean, if I were to write about French wine on Independence Day I might as well start wire tapping U.S. citizens and outing CIA agents!

Sorry folks, that ain't me. I'm a patriot, and it's U.S. wine your going to read about in this post, whether you like it or not. Actually, I do think you will like it, or I would not waste my time writing about it. The varietal, Zinfandel, is considered to be indigenous to the U.S., and is rarely grown outside of California. I love a good Zin for its attractive, fruit driven nature, which begs to be enjoyed sooner than later. Most winemakers working with Zinfandel are able to create ripe, round, rich, jammy wines, and are not hesitant about allowing the alcohol to rise above 15 or 16 percent. The wines tend to be bold, powerful and delicious, yet for the most part short lived due to their low acid and moderate tannins. Another interesting tidbit about Zin is that they are usually head pruned (as in the image to the left), which gives each Zinfandel vine an aura of individuality.

Not as highly sought after as Cabernet or other noble grapes, many Zinfandels are a tremendous value. There are several boutique producers whose Zins are nothing short of stunning, however, when I reach for a Zin it is usually because it is a great food wine. It pairs well with anything from burgers and brats to pasta or filet mignon. One of my "go to" Zins has always been Seghesio because even their entry level wine is usually very enjoyable, and representative of the varietal. Many red wines at this price point are so manipulated and blended with other varietals that they show no varietal typicity whatsoever. The Seghesios have been producing wine in Sonoma County since 1895, and the winery is still a family owned operation today.

I tasted two Seghesio Zins today, and neither disappointed. The first was the 2005 Sonoma County Zinfandel, which can be found for about $16 a bottle, and the second was the 2005 Home Ranch Zinfandel, which can be found for about $32 a bottle. I preferred the Home Ranch Zin as it provided a broader, more sophisticated aroma, flavor profile and mouthfeel, but the Sonoma Zin was a close second.

Visually they are almost identical, with the Home Ranch being ever so slightly darker at the core. The nose on the Home Ranch is distinctly more attractive with notes of dark fruit and earth, where the Sonoma is very light and peppery. The Sonoma Zin is also lighter and brighter on the palate, leaning more toward red fruits, vanilla and pepper. It has a medium body, and it finishes nicely, although somewhat short. The Home Ranch is more complex and offers some dark fruits and earthy notes with well integrated oak and pepper. It is also richer, has more weight and a longer finish than the Sonoma. However, if I were going to purchase one or the other I would choose the Sonoma because it is such a good value. Seghesio produces approximately 30,000 cases of wine per year, so either of these wines can be found at better area wine shops.

Far Niente Winery: Fast Cars and Fine Wine

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Thu, 28 Jun 2007 02:16:00 +0000

My father has been racing cars since the early Sixties. His first race car was a Fiat Abarth Zagato 750, which is affectionately known as a "Double Bubble." An example of the Double Bubble can be seen to the right. Since then he has seemingly had more race cars than I could list on this page. He still races to this day. In fact, as I write this he is at Mid-Ohio Raceway in Lexington, Ohio, racing his latest and perhaps his greatest car - Jo Bonnier's 1970 Lola T210, which can be seen below the Fiat. What does this have to do with wine, you ask? For me everything, because it was through his racing that I was introduced to Far Niente.

In spite of my obvious lack of mechanical ability and interest, I was my father's pit crew through most of my teenage years. It's not that I don't like racing or watching him race, but I don't enjoy working on cars, and I'm not very good at it either. I can remember at one race really doing a number on his Lotus 23B by severely over tightening the bolts securing the intake manifold thereby cracking it. Oops. That same weekend I met Gil Nickel, who was the owner of Far Niente Winery. To the left, Gil can be seen racing his own Lotus 23B.

If my dad was bent because I trashed his engine he really didn't show it. He knew I wasn't very mechanically inclined, so I guess he figured he probably should not have had me anywhere near a rare, vintage race car in the first place. The intake manifold would need to be replaced, but it would survive the weekend. At the end of the day my dad said that one of his friends from California was pitted close by and we should stop in for a visit. That friend was Gil Nickel, and it didn't take long for him to become my new hero. He had shown up with a semi full of exotic race cars and a reefer truck full of Far Niente wines.

When we returned from the race I called The Wine Merchant outside of Baltimore, MD to see if they carried Far Niente wines. They said they did, so fake I.D. in hand I drove the few miles to the store intent on buying a half case. Upon seeing the price, my elation turned to dismay as I realized it would be many years before I could afford to buy a single bottle of Far Niente, let alone six.

I was fairly obsessed with Far Niente for quite some time after that, but my experience was mostly limited to the few times I could convince my father to order a bottle at a restaurant. Through racing, my father and Gil kept in touch over the years, and that connection has made Far Niente somewhat of a family favorite. A few years ago, however, we called Far Niente to schedule a tasting with Gil, and were shocked and saddened to learn that Gil had passed away after a battle with cancer. His passing is a great loss to the Napa Valley, but his passion for producing great wine lives on through his family.

Year after year Far Niente's commitment to excellence is on display in their current releases. I tasted both the 2005 Chardonnay and the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon this week, and was not disappointed. It seems, however, that starting with the 2002 vintage Far Niente's Cabernets have been made in a more fruit driven, soft and oaky style, where in the past they shared more characteristics with their counterparts in Bordeaux. The recent vintages of Cabernet have all been very good, but it's not really the style I prefer.

Their recent Chardonnays have been outstanding, and 2005 is probably the best of the past five vintages. The '05 was aged on the lees for about nine months and it did not go through malolactic fermentation (ML). Far Niente was one of the first Napa Valley wineries to forgo ML when making chards, and it has helped in making their Chardonnay program a tremendous success.

I recommend scheduling a tour and tasting at Far Niente whenever visiting the area. Although the fee is now up to $50, they taste visitors on five different wines including their current releases and a couple of library wines as well. It's a beautiful winery, and the grounds and the caves are fantastic. Furthermore, the tour ends with a visit to the barn where some of Gil's cars are garaged. If you are into classic cars and great wine, Far Niente is not to be missed.

Winery: Far Niente
Wine: 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Winemaker: Stepahnie Putnam
Estimated Cost: $95

Tasting Notes: Dark ruby/purple to the rim. Notes of butterscotch, vanilla, blueberry, blackberry and blackcurrant. The oak is a bit too prominent for me at this stage of its development, and it seems to overwhelm some of the fruit. This should not be a long term problem for the wine, and probably is not a problem for most tasters. Although I like the flavors oak imparts on wine, I am sensitive to it and think that many wineries are a bit heavy handed with oak. The finish on this wine is nice and long, and the wine is seamless from front to back. 90 points.

Winery: Far Niente
Wine: 2005 Chardonnay
Winemaker: Stephanie Putnam
Estimated Cost: $42

Tasting Notes: Very Burgundian in style. Rich and mouthfilling, but not at all flabby. Notes of pears, apple, vanilla and beeswax. Oak is toasty and nicely integrated. Nice minerality as well. Although I am generally not a fan of California Chardonnay, Far Niente's 2005 is an exception to the rule. 93 points.

Spottswoode Winery, 2006 Sauvignon Blanc

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Thu, 21 Jun 2007 03:41:00 +0000

What better varietal to write about on the eve of the Summer Solstice than Sauvignon Blanc? I had originally intended to cover several red wines from a few of the lesser known communes of Bordeaux, but today turned out to be the first really hot day of the summer. It was one of those days during which you involuntarily keep waving your hand in front of your car's A/C vents to see if they are still working. As the day wore on and the mercury continued to ascend, my enthusiasm for tasting a flight of young, powerful, tannic reds waned. Eventually, I decided that only a maniac would want to taste young Bordeaux on such a day, and I am arguably no maniac. So, when I got home I didn't even bother with the rigmarole of scanning through my CellarTracker database to find what I already knew was the perfect wine for such a day - Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc.

Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery is best known for their perennially fantastic Cabernet Sauvignon, which is why a few years ago I scheduled a tasting at the winery. It is a leisurely and educational tour and tasting, and it is one of the better tours in the Napa Valley. Tastings without a tour are currently not an option. Only two tastings per week are scheduled, so if you are interested in visiting Spottswoode make reservations several weeks in advance. It was at this tasting I was introduced to Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc.

The tour began on the covered porch of their Victorian style house on Madrona St. in St. Helena, which has been converted into offices. I was eager to taste their current release Cabernet Sauvignon, which at the time was the epic 2001 vintage. As we waited for a few stragglers to show up, they poured each of us a glass of the 2004 Sauvignon Blanc to start with. Not thinking too much about it (because I was there to taste the Cab), I took a sip while chatting with some other guests, and was immediately blown away. Damn! That's some good Sauvignon Blanc, I said aloud. I didn't even know these guys made an SB! Soon, accolades from various other guests could be heard as well.

Just about that time the stragglers finally arrived and the tour began. The stragglers, by the way, had just come from visiting David Arthur Vineyards and were pretty shellacked. Apparently, their tour at David Arthur got a little out of hand, and they ended up doing a bunch of tequila shots with the tour guide. Did I mention that Spottswoode tours begin at 10:00 a.m.? Yikes! Actually, they were very nice people, but this tour must have seemed rather somber when compared with their first tour of the morning.

The tour ended with a poolside tasting of the Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, which was outstanding, however, I joined their mailing list for the Sauvignon Blanc. Like their Cabernet Sauvignon, you can bank on Spottswoode producing one of the best SB's in California year after year. I often serve this wine when we have guests on warm summer days. Regardless of their experience with SB, after their first taste of Spottswoode it seems they always ask what they are drinking and where they can buy it. This is a great summer wine and SB is a great food wine as well. Although the price is on the high end for Sauvignon Blanc, you certainly won't be suffering from buyer's remorse after your first taste. In fact, you'll probably be a little sad you didn't buy more.

Producer: Spottswoode Winery

Wine: 2006 Sauvignon Blanc

Winemakers: Rosemary Cakebread and Jennifer Williams

Estimated Cost: $34

Tasting Notes: Crisp and tropical. Straw colored with hints of grapefruit, melons, honeysuckle, peaches and vanilla. Nice weight for a Sauvignon Blanc, but still balanced with underlying minerality and acidity. Finshes long. Still early in its development, it should improve over the next several months and drink well through 2010.

Relic Wines, 2004 Alder Springs Syrah

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Wed, 13 Jun 2007 03:38:00 +0000

Winemakers looking to make great Syrah should take a page out of Relic Wines owner/winemaker Mike Hirby's book. Furthermore, readers traveling to the Napa Valley should try to schedule a tasting with Mike. If the thought of tasting with the owner and winemaker conjures up images of sitting around a white tablecloth with a stuffy, old, self-important, elitist then you've got the wrong guy. Mike is committed to one thing only when it comes to Relic, and it is not his ego - it is making great wine. When tasting with Mike his passion and enthusiasm for wine are apparent, and his laid back demeanor and affable personality will immediately put you at ease. Currently, he tastes by appointment only at Behrens and Hitchcock, which is at the top of Spring Mountain on the Napa/Sonoma county line. Try to schedule back to back tastings with Relic and B&H, but plan on either spitting or having a designated driver. Spring Mtn. Road is narrow and steep with numerous tight curves.

Before becoming a winemaker, Mike was a sommelier at Primitivo in Colorado Springs. I sat down with him for a brief, virtual interview earlier this week to learn a bit more.

How did you become interested in wine?
I was first introduced to quality wine in college when a friend told me about a wine sale at the local wine shop. We were on a budget, so this was pertinent. I became entranced by a particular bottle of Ridge Zinfandel from Geyserville, and my life has never been the same!

What was your first winemaking gig?
After an ill-fated trip to learn how to make wine in the Cotes Du Rhone in Cairanne, I moved to Napa Valley and started working for Behrens and Hitchcock. I was the Assistant winemaker from 2000-2002. I was hired as the Winemaker for Realm Cellars in 2002.

How did you become involved with Behrens & Hitchcock?
A friend I met at a local wine shop my second day in Napa Valley told me to apply to work harvest at a GREAT winery, not just a good winery, so I called Les, met him in my loaded-down, dented 1988 VW at his winery. He jokes that he took one look at my beat-up car and hired me on the spot, which is more or less true.

Relic's motto is "Modern wines the old way." What is it about using primitive winemaking techniques that compels you to do so?
Making wine the old way, I have a chance to experience the miracle of winemaking - the sense of working with nature and looking through the "magnifying glass" to taste the communion of earth and human endeavor. You could call this terroir. As soon as I start to make a wine simply to sell, the miracle has vanished. By taking the risks that are inherent in "the old way," the wines are not simply products, but expressions of something else entirely. Something ancient.

What is your favorite varietal to work with?
My favorite varietal to work with is Syrah! It can be made so many different ways, with dramatically different results. It is a fantastic paintbrush.

Outside of the B&H umbrella, what is your favorite wine?
Today that would be a 2002 Joseph Roty Mazy-Chambertin enjoyed recently,because it had the modernity of CA Pinot Noir, but with a fantastic focus that I just have not seen in CA. My mind will probably change tomorrow!

What is your favorite appellation outside of California?
Tough question! My favorite appellation outside of the US is probably one of the following depending on the day: Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Chevalier-Montrachet, Chambertin-Clos-du-Beze, or Cote-Rotie.
What is Relic's production?
Relic's 2006 production will be around 750 cases. We may grow to about 1500 cases eventually, but not anytime soon.

Where can readers find Relic wines?
People can buy Relic Wines directly from us via our mailing list! But there are also great restaurants in NY, Las Vegas, and HI that have our wines. Look for Union Square Café in NY and Alec's at the Wynn in Vegas.

Producer: Relic Wines
Wine: 2004 Alder Springs Syrah, Mendecino County
Winemaker: Mike Hirby
Estimated Cost: $54

Tasting Notes: A huge wine. Deep purple to the rim. Notes of white pepper, plum, blueberry, raspberry, smoke and game with grippy tannins. Finish goes on and on. Still very young. Some may find the tannins to be too much at this point, but they will mellow with a little bit of time in the cellar. I have had very few California Syrahs which are its equal. 93 points

Teachworth, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Blend

noreply@blogger.com (Brad Rothman) — Sun, 03 Jun 2007 05:43:00 +0000

I consider myself to be a reasonably tough critic. Many times I agree with the most prominent writers, but other times I find myself wondering what the hell all the hype is about. This being my inaugural post, however, I've decided to start out on a high note.

For those who are simply interested in what I think of the wine, and not my experience at the winery, this one is a BUY. It will undoubtedly be one of my highest scoring wines ever at 97 points, and I highly suggest readers get on their mailing list before this producer is discovered by Parker. Full tasting notes are available at the bottom of this post.

The story of tasting with Joan Teachworth should be of interest to anyone with children, and especially to those thinking of having children.

My wife and I travel to the Napa Valley several times a year for tasting. Of late, our travels have been somewhat hampered by the addition of two children over the past three years. Last month, however, we once again made the pilgrimage to the holy land of Cabernet with our two little ones. My sister, brother-in-law, their two little ones, and my father and his girlfriend also made the journey. It was a fun crew, but I very quickly learned that such a group doesn't go well with the private tastings I usually schedule when traveling to the Napa Valley.

I had one such tasting scheduled with Teachworth Winery. Of course, the baby sitter we had arranged pulled a no show, so my wife graciously volunteered to watch the two infants while my sister and I went to the tasting - just as long as we agreed to take the two toddlers. I was hesitant, but the kids seem to entertain each other, so I figured they would just run around on the lawn while my sister and I would enjoy a pleasant tasting with Joan Teachworth.

As soon as we stepped into Joan's home I realized I had made a big mistake in bringing the kids. The Teachworths, you see, are art collectors. Their taste is eclectic, and although displayed in an informal and comfortable way, they have lots of artwork and sculptures throughout the home. Some pieces are worth more than others, but to tell you the truth I couldn't tell which ones were worth $50 and which were worth $50,000 - all I knew was that the kids seemed to be on a search and destroy mission. Although my blood pressure soared to new heights while trying to keep the kids from smashing what might be family heirlooms, Joan was as relaxed as a hippie in a hookah bar.

She poured each of us a glass of the '02 Estate Blend (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) and offered cheese and cherries grown on the property. As I began to take in the nose one of the two kids started banging away on the piano. Although they are both pretty sharp kids neither is a childhood prodigy. After steering them away from the piano we decided it might be best to move to the deck to keep the kids out of trouble. No sooner than Joan had cautioned that the deck was very high (about 35') and could pose a danger to the kids, my niece began climbing up the railing. We pulled her away from the precipitous drop, then my 2 1/2 year old son discovered the retractable screen - THWAP! THWAP! THWAP!

At that point Joan sensed our worry about what they might do next and suggested a walk around the property. We quickly agreed. As we started to walk, things began to get better. It was a beautiful day, my stress level was subsiding, and I finally got a chance to taste from the glass and ask Joan a few questions. The kids darted ahead, but as we approached the bocce ball court (Joan is an avid bocce player) my son came waddling back toward us with a frown on his face. In his saddest and whinniest voice he said, I pee-peed through my diaper and now my pants are wet.

Could this get any worse? Embarrassed, I placed my glass on a barrel and excused myself to go change him. Clearly unfazed Joan said Oh, just take off his pants and let him go in the woods. It's really no big deal.

Upon returning from the car he promptly spilled my wine - on purpose. Luckily, the glass was spared from breaking. Of course, when I picked him up in a failed attempt to keep him from spilling the glass in the first place he screamed and cried as if I were about to beat the tar out of him - never mind that he has never been spanked in his life. Now I just wanted to get out of there. Fast. But Joan insisted that she loves kids, and suggested we go down to the pool where there is a lawn for them to run around on. She poured me a refill, and off we went.

As we made our way down to the pool we talked with Joan a little bit more about her vineyards and winery. It didn't take long, however, for the kids to discover the flower garden and pick some of her flowers. They then raced across the lawn as we tried get a few more words in with Joan. While talking with her I thought I heard a sprinkler head in the background. You know that sound when a sprinkler head returns to it's starting position? At first it sounds like ch-ch-ch-ch with a 1/4 second pause in between the ch's. Then it returns rapid fire chchchchchchchch with no pauses. That was the sound.

A few seconds later I hear my sister shout - Oh my God, a snake! Turns out, my son had found a 5' long rattlesnake at the edge of the lawn and was laughing hysterically while "playing with it." Luckily, he wasn't bitten, and the snake retreated as I cautiously scooped up my son. At that point we decided to not tempt fate anymore than we already had and call it a day. Assuring us that they would be intact upon our return, Joan kindly offered to watch the kids while we went to our next tasting. We declined her offer, of course, and unfortunately had to cancel with Diamond Terrace, which was our next tasting.

The moral of this story is always bring your nanny when traveling to the Napa Valley.

Producer: Teachworth Winery

Wine: Estate Cabernet, 2002

Winemaker: Phil Steinschriber

Estimated Cost: $100

Tasting Notes: Deep purple/black to the rim. Extremely concentrated, but this is no fruit bomb. Alluring nose of blackcurrant, blackberry, plums, lavender, cigar box, new saddle leather and lead pencil. Slowly builds and unfolds in the mouth revealing layer after layer. A backward, brooding, monumental wine. Not for the faint of heart. It will require several years of cellaring before it is ready to drink, but it's clearly a 25 - 30 year wine. One of the best Cabernets I've ever had the pleasure of tasting. 97 points. find it