BowlingTips.com Pro Bowling Tips

Bowling Lane Surfaces and How To Play Them

[Your Name Here] — Wed, 11 Jul 2012 13:16:20 +0000

First, we are going to start by looking at bowling lane surfaces.
There are basically two different lane surfaces out there, Wood and Synthetic. We will look at both of these surface types, and how they both offer different finishes.

Wood Lanes

Wood with Water Based Lane Finish - This type of lane surface is very soft and will have a lot of friction, making any bowling ball read earlier than intended.

Wood with Epoxy Urethane Lane Finish - Normally this type of lane surface is just a bit harder than water based finish, but will still have a lot of friction again making the bowling ball read earlier than intended.

Wood Overlays - There is Guardian and Lane Shield, basically both do the same thing. They are film overlays that go on wood lanes to help make lanes last a bit longer without resurfacing. Both offer the same reaction, a lot of friction with early back ends.

The tough thing about wood lanes is, because there is more friction due to a soft surface, the shot ends up changing faster. With today's equipment available, the shot tends to breakdown instead of carry down, which means moving farther left or right to get to where oil still is. Carry down happens when plastic or urethane balls are used. The rest of the equipment breaks down the pattern even that Pearl ball is absorbing oil.

Synthetic Lanes

Brunswick Pro-Anvilane - This lane surface tends to be the most popular surface put in bowling centers today. It is the hardest surface, which means, less friction causing the shot to hold up longer. You can use more aggressive equipment on this surface without the ball rolling to early (depends on the shot). These lanes also have the 4 range finders on the back-ends located on the 10th and 15th boards.

AMF HPL - This is the second most popular synthetic lane surface. HPL is a bit softer than the Pro-Anvilane, which means, more friction, more back-ends, and the shot changes faster. HPL is still harder than wood lanes.

Softest to hardest surface goes like this- Wood, Guardian/Lane Shield, HPL, and Pro-Anvilane. A softer surface makes the ball roll earlier, and a harder surface makes the ball go longer before hooking(again depends on the shot).

Now, lets look at oil types/patterns, and some of the terminology that goes with it.

Oil Types/Patterns

Viscosity determines how thick or thin the oil is.

Lubricity is the measure of the reduction in friction of a lubricant.

Lane Carry Down is when the oil gets pushed down the lane causing the ball not to have as much back end due to the oil being down at the break-point.

Lane Breakdown is when the oil pattern starts evaporating or being absorbed by the bowling ball, thus causing the oil to disappear.

How to Play the Oil Pattern

Magic Number is 31? - Lets look at how long the pattern is, say we are bowling on a 41' shot, (MAGIC NUMBER IS 31), so take 41 minus 31 and you get 10. 10 will roughly be your break-point on that shot(Not always the case). So again if you are bowling on a 35' shot, minus 31, equals 4 which again will roughly be your break-point on that shot. The Magic Number of 31 is good just to get an idea of where the ball should be exiting the pattern or hitting the break-point.

Ratios - Another thing to look at for oil patterns is ratios. A 3.0 and lower are Sport Conditions(harder, less room for error). 3.1-4.9 are more of the Challenge Shots(still hard, but more room for error than sport shots). 5.0 and higher are your House/Recreational Shots(Easy, a lot of room for error).

Conclusion - Hopefully this has been a helpful start to understanding bowling lane surfaces and oil types/patterns. It is important to just enjoy the game of bowling, but remember there is always more to this sport than just tossing a round ball down the lane. As you can see, paying attention to the type of lanes you are bowling on are going to determine a lot of your needs before you even bowl. See if your mechanic or center will provide you with details of the shot on the lane to help get a better judgment on where to play and with what type of ball. Then let it fly!

How To Maintain Your Bowling Equipment

[Your Name Here] — Tue, 05 Jun 2012 18:36:33 +0000

Have you ever had a ball that after 30-50 games the reaction is about half
of what it use to be!? Yes technology is great, but does tend to have its flaws along the way. Why should we maintain our equipment? In this article we will discuss the reasons why maintaining your equipment is a GOOD thing.

One question you may have is, what happens to the bowling ball if I never clean it? Well, with today's equipment and technology being spilled into bowling balls, the cover stock of a bowling ball is very sensitive. Imagine a bowling ball acting as a sponge, obviously a bit harder than a sponge but with the same principles. Every time that ball goes down the lane, it's absorbing oil on every shot. Have you ever noticed the rings of oil going around the bowling ball? Some of that oil is actually going straight to the core of the bowling ball. I personally have found out the hard way why I should clean my equipment. I threw a Columbia Sport ball (one of my favorite balls of all time), but my downfall was I never cleaned the thing. Well after some time of oil going to the core, the reaction was about as good as a plastic ball. So I used it as a spare ball for a little bit until.... the ball cracked 360 degrees around. Ever since that happened to me I have always cleaned my equipment and performed better maintenance on my bowling balls.

What are some ways to clean and maintain your bowling balls? One thing that I recommend is using the same brand cleaner as the bowling ball company you are using. For example, with a Brunswick ball try a Brunswick Cleaner, with a Storm ball try a Storm Cleaner, etc. This is what I recommend since companies test ball cleaners on their own equipment. Everyone has differing opinions on which cleaners are best so try several and pick the one you like best. Some people prefer to apply the cleaner straight on the ball and some on a towel then to the ball, either way works. I also recommend a micro-fiber towel for the cleaning part of it, but any clean towel will work.

Another way to revive your bowling ball is to go to your pro shop and talk to him/her about resurfacing the bowling ball. This will help get the ball close to its original surface. This doesn't help get the oil out of the core, but at least will freshen up the cover stock for you.

There are some other commonly used methods of cleaning/maintaining a bowling ball or getting the oil out of the ball. One method is placing your bowling ball in a bucket of hot water, and possibly adding soap to it. Another method is using the dishwasher. Some have used their oven to cook out the oil. The Innovative Revivor Bowling Ball Oven is my favorite thing to use to extract the oil. Please be warned that it really is not good for the ball to be heated up to extract the oil out, but it does bring back the ball to life again. If you are to try some of these methods, make sure the heat does not rise above 120-130 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything higher than that will end up causing the ball to crack more rapidly. Think of a bowling ball like a basketball with air in it, the colder it is, the more the ball will contract, thus having what appears to be less air in the ball. The opposite is true with heat, the ball will expand, sometimes causing a lump in the basketball. Same thing will occur with the core of a bowling ball, it will expand and contract due to the weather.

My recommendation is to stick to cleaning your bowling ball with cleaner until the reaction is not there anymore due to the oil being soaked into the core. Then I would go to your pro shop and see if they can resurface your bowling ball for you. As a last resort I would try some of the heating methods to get some of the oil out of the core. It is tough to say how many games a bowling balls keeps their reaction, but dull bowling balls due to their porous cover stock tend to have a shorter life span than pearl bowling balls. I hope that some of these tips and methods work for you. These are just some of the ways to help prolong the life of your bowling ball. Remember that a bowling ball will not last forever, eventually Father Time does catch up, even with bowling balls.

(Please note that soaking or baking your bowling ball may void the manufacturer's warranty. We recommend checking your ball's warranty before performing these methods.)

Help aiming for beginners

[Your Name Here] — Fri, 09 Apr 2010 20:06:45 +0000

BY SCODADDY:

One basic rule I follow when aiming is to pick a target arrow to throw at. I am right handed and usually throw between the 2nd and 3rd target arrows to the right of the middle arrow. Then I stand around the middle dot on the approach and foul line indicators when releasing the ball. I throw a few shots and if I am missing to the right of the pocket then I move my feet to the right of my original approach point. If I miss the pocket to the left then I move my feet to the left of my original approach point. However, my aiming does not change. I keep aiming between the 2nd and 3rd arrow. So a simple reminder is to find a target arrow and keep it. Then if you miss left, move your feet left. If you miss right, move your feet right. Hope this helps!

When purchasing a performance ball...

[Your Name Here] — Fri, 09 Apr 2010 19:14:57 +0000

By Scodaddy

Just wanted to remind anyone who purchases a performance ball for the first time, or maybe even if you have bought them before, remember that the ball is going to require maintenance. Generally you will want to get a ball cleaner and a towel (preferably oil free or microfiber). Over time a performance ball will soak up the oil from the bowling lane. Once the ball soaks up enough oil it will lose its hooking ability and will not perform well. So what you want to do is to prevent as much oil as possible from being soaked into the ball. You may notice professionals on tv or maybe even league bowlers at your local center toweling off the ball. They are wiping the oil off the ball before it has a chance to soak in. After you have played a few games, even though you towel the ball after every shot there will still be some oil that soaks in. So what you want to do before putting the ball up for the night, is to use a cleaner to help extract the oil to the surface of the ball and then use your trusty towel to wipe of the extra oil. You will want to try and clean the ball evenly around the surface so make sure to cover the entire ball. Cleaning the ball with cleaner is really only necessary when you have finished bowling for the day. You dont want to clean in between shots or games. So to make sure your ball works well for a long time, keep it cleaned.
Also, on a side note, please keep your bowling balls stored in an area that does not have drastic temperature changes. Usually a locker or closet works fine. You do not want to leave it in your vehicle because the temperature can cause the ball to crack!

If You're Looking for 'Magic' to Revive Your Game, It Might Just Be a Stone's Throw Away

[Your Name Here] — Fri, 09 Apr 2010 15:13:37 +0000

BY TOM KOUROS : Reprinted Courtesy of Bowlers Journal International

IN THE MIDDLE AGES lived a sorcerer named Merlin. He performed many miraculous feats, one of which was to embed a sword in a huge boulder, making it impossible for anybody but the next King of England to remove it. Many tried, but all failed. Then a young man named Arthur stepped forward and easily unsheathed the sword.

Some time ago, a struggling bowler known as Sam entered a pro shop. There, a ball drilling sorcerer designed for him an artful creation of magical properties. As a result, Sam left that shop a new bowler.

The metamorphosis was astounding. In short order, his average skyrocketed and his teammates started calling him "The Slasher," denoting his new ball's effect on the pins.

With regard to King Arthur's feat, that still remains an enigma. Indeed, for hundreds of years, much has been postulated. Some say it was simply Merlin's black magic; others say it was Arthur's great strength. There are even those who believe that Arthur used something like WD 40 to get the sword out of that boulder.

But there's no mystery about Sam's success. It is known as the "exotic ball experience," and across this nation, pro shop wizards - better known as ball technicians - are increasingly arming average bowlers with the formidable equipment of today.

In that vein, I recall what I wrote years ago: "Physically, bowling is a sport comprised of two elements... accuracy and action. In terms of priority, develop your accuracy skills first. Once you are hitting the pocket on a regular basis, then begin enhancing your action technique. Keep in mind that, in bowling, action is primarily applying a torque (force) with the hand to the ball. This torque is comprised of three factors... lift, turn and extension. And be careful not to stress accuracy at the expense of action and vice-versa."

Well, since writing those words, the game has changed somewhat. It still requires the accuracy skills of the past, but the action aspect is a different story. Much of the ball action today is built into the bowling balls by the use of sophisticated weight blocks, dynamic balancing and modifying the coverstock with more or less porosity as the lane condition demands. It is a fact that revolutionary weight blocks and dynamic imbalancing have inserted much of the torque requirement into the ball, thus lessening the responsibility for the hand to apply a strong torque.

For example, the farther the weight mass is located away from the axis, the greater the torque effect it has on ball roll. Briefly, the principle is this: In order to overcome a resistance, you must expend a certain amount of effort. This is always the product of the force which you exert times the distance through which you move the force. What you lose in distance you gain in power and vice-versa; 10 ounces moving one inch is the same as one ounce moving 10 inches. A torque working through an angle is work, just as a force acting through a distance. Understand that the definition of work in physics is not quite the same as the dictionary definition. Work always implies motion. It is the product of a definite force acting through a definite distance.

To be sure, these modern balls have been a boon to bowlers young and old, as evidenced by the many honor scores registered of late. Where par in bowling was widely recognized for many years as a 200 average, that distinction has now been upgraded to a 220 average. And if you are still holding on to that ball that Aunt Sarah bought you for Christmas 12 years ago, do yourself a favor and get down to your local pro shop and modernize your weaponry. Trust me, no matter how talented you are, you can't compete using old, antiquated equipment in today's environment.

LPs are a thing of the past. Likewise, give that "old apple" a descent burial and get in on the fun.

Dealing with a Late Season Slump Is Like Coping with an Unexpected Summer Cold

[Your Name Here] — Wed, 03 Mar 2010 15:35:21 +0000

BY TOM KOUROS : Reprinted Courtesy of Bowlers Journal International

MOTIVATED BY SUMMER LESSONS, new equipment and/or strong resolution, thousands start off the bowling season with much exuberance and hope. Sure enough, the first half of the season was promising, as our average climbed to new heights. But by the flagging days of March, we were hit upside the head by a harsh reality check.

That's when some of us discovered how unpredictable this challenging sport can be as we played more and seemingly enjoyed it less because of something called a late season slump.

Rest assured, many of us have experienced this. And once affected by this malady, a bowler can't help wondering if the preseason practice and commitment were worth the effort. The initial excitement and enthusiasm is gone. Instead of eagerly anticipating the bowling night, we now dread it.

Yet bowlers often make a grave mistake during one of these downturns. They overreact. They go from one coach to another, or from one written source to another. This makes things like the swing and release even more confusing, which leads to even more complication and discouragement. And when confusion sets in, they realize little enjoyment when playing the game.

The cure is not always rooted in a review of one's methodology.

That's why the first thing to do when in a slump is to ask yourself if you are still having fun. If the answer is negative, then that is where you want to begin your efforts to "break" the slump.

Simply put, if you are not having fun, then you are not playing the game. Bowling is great exercise, but not manual labor. It's a game, and like other great sports, it's an escape from the harsh realities of life. In other words, if the top professionals can't perfect it, then it's unreasonable for you to have that expectation.

Over the years, many pros have told me they played better once they accepted that precept.

Average bowlers often get too serious about the game, trying to turn it into an exact science. They have little understanding of the mental game. As the season progresses, they tend to keep adding tidbits of methodology until their minds are glutted with technique and alternatives. Early in the season, their mental faculties were clear and unencumbered. They were patient and steadfast, working on a few fundamental keys. As they began adding one thing after another, their mental game became overburdened, eventually resulting in the inability of their minds to function in a highly sequential manner.

Slumps are periods when your physical or mental skills operate at a much lower level than normal. Even the most consistent pros are not as consistent as many people believe. A slump, however, is a continuation of poor performance without any upturns. In other words, a slump is a phenomenon introduced to your game which is preventing you from realizing the upturns. Aside from the major reason described above, slumps occur because of a bad habit, too little practice, too much practice, or a personal problem in your life.

To prevent bad habits from occurring, or to correct a bad habit, avail yourself of a qualified coach. "Eyes on the bench" are critical to a consistent high level of performance. And listen to one coach, not several. Remember the adage, "Too many chefs spoil the meal." Another good idea is to have yourself videotaped when bowling up to your expectations. Then you have something to gauge when a slump occurs.

Obviously, the cure for too little or too much bowling is to adjust your practice time. As for any personal problems you might have, they can best be addressed through counseling, with a friend or professionally.

Above all else, never forget why you play this great game... the challenge, the social aspect, the exercise, or just to have fun. That's a pretty exciting parlay.

Why Does It Take 16 Seconds Longer to Make a Shot Today Compared to Bowlers of Yore?

[Your Name Here] — Thu, 25 Feb 2010 22:23:52 +0000

BY TOM KOUROS : Reprinted Courtesy of Bowlers Journal International

RECENTLY, TIGER WOODS WON another golf tournament. What was unusual about this one was that his conduct on the links may have been as big a story as the victory. "Tiger in time warp," blared one headline. "For a man who supposedly has everything," wrote a cynical reporter, "Woods evidently needs a stop watch."

Yes, despite his popularity, the game's ruling monarch was admonished for slow play. On the 16th hole of the final round of the event, Woods and his opponent were "put on the clock" for falling a full hole behind the group in front of them.

That shows you how concerned golf's leaders are about the ever slowing play of the average golfer.

This is a wide spread problem, and also pertains to bowling. In fact, "slow bowling" has contributed to the dramatic decline of team bowling. Today, the average male rolls 16 shots a game, 4.5 of them strikes. This adds up to about 48 shots in a three game series, totaling 240 shots for a five man team series.

Now, consider that it takes the average five man team three hours to bowl a three game series, or 10,800 seconds. Using the same 240 shot denominator works out to an average interval of 45 seconds between shots today.

Back in the 1940s and early '50s, the average male rolled 19 shots per game, which added up to 57 shots in a three game series and 285 shots for a team series. This was an era when the pace of bowling was primarly governed not by rule or proprietorship, but mostly by the pin boys, who would pound the kickbacks with a bowling pin while uttering caustic remarks if you did not arrive on the approach when your turn came. Consequently, five men would normally finish bowling a three game team series in two hours, 20 minutes, or 8,400 seconds. That broke down to 29 seconds as the average interval between shots (8,400 seconds divided by 285 shots).

So, although today's bowler utilizes fewer shots in a three game series compared to the bowler of yesteryear, he squanders 16 seconds more between shots. This results in a five man team taking 40 minutes longer to bowl a three game league series. So, how did this insidious slow pace evolve?

We go back to the early 1950s to address that question. The introduction of a "miracle machine" went hand in hand with center modernization and bestowed innumerable benefits to proprietor and participant alike.

However, along with this cornucopia of beneficence came slow ball returns and a substantial number of minor malfunctions, such as a pin stuck in the ball door and 2for the machine's distributor "double feeding" the table, or a re spot cell failing to pick up a given pin in a spare leave. These seemed to be minor prices to be paid for such revolutionary advances (obviating the need for pinboys as well). On the other hand, it wasn't unusual to see the pinsetter clear away the dead wood, and set your spare leave, only to have your ball arrive on the ball rack some three to five seconds later.

In addition, it wasn't unusual for a 12 team league with five men to a team to have 25 to 30 nuisance calls (minor machine malfunctions) during the league session.

In consequence, these two factors took us from a normal two hour and 20 minute league session to one of two hours and 40 minutes.

The 7 p.m. league now finished at 9:40 instead of 9:20, and the 9:20 league now starting at 9:40 didn't finish until 12:20 instead of 11:40. That additional 40 minutes meant a lot to the bowlers, especially to those who had to be up at 6 a.m., or earlier.

But they stayed with it.

Then came the early 1960s when PBA style bowling found competitors waiting two lanes to either side before bowling.

If the PGA isn't using its stop watch for Tiger Woods, maybe they could loan it to today's league bowler.

If You Are Compensating on Too Many Shots, It May Be Time for Another Practice Session

[Your Name Here] — Mon, 22 Feb 2010 21:24:15 +0000

BY TOM KOUROS : Reprinted Courtesy of Bowlers Journal International

WHEN IT COMES TO TENPIN FORM, "Dave the Dilettante" personifies bowling balletomania. He assumes the stance with flair and grace, then employs a meticulous adagio style in the approach, his feet emulating the dexterity of a ballerina strongly influenced by George Ballanchine, the great choreographer.

He then glides to the foul line where, with great aplomb, he finalizes the shot with a breathtaking arabesque. Yes-sir-ee, our nimble danseur would be the uncontested master of the sport if bowling paid off on form instead of toppled pins.

Alas, it doesn't.

Bowling's ultimate challenge is to demonstrate a high level of accuracy, coupled with action skills, to realize the highest probability of effecting strikes.

Note the term "highest probability." One must accept the fact that good shots do not always strike. The bowling neophyte soon learns that perfection is impossible. As Earl Anthony often said, "It's the bowler who makes the least number of mistakes that prevails 3b a perfectionist doesn't exist."

The truth is there is yet another critical factor that must be addressed if a bowler is to achieve his or her true potential; that factor is compensation, which refers to making an adjustment in one's bowling shot in order to nullify a mistake that has been made.

Compensations are not the same as allowances. The difference: allowances are pre-planned. Compensations, on the other hand, are made spontaneously, many times instinctively and always while the bowler is in motion.

A good example of an allowance is when a righthander moves farther left on the approach when the ball is hooking too much.

A good example of compensation is exaggerating the swing to the right when sensing a leftward drift in the approach.

Another term often used by skilled bowlers for compensation is "saving the shot." The intelligent bowler, knowing the human susceptibility to making mistakes, is alert to compensating when sensing such is needed to give the shot a chance for success. For example, take the bowler who overstrides the key step (the step on which you put the ball in motion) and arrives at the foul line off balance. In our case, "Dave" would ease up on the swing to re establish some balance at the line. The true professional would maintain his swing leverage through the delivery and follow through even if he had to stand on his head. The priority is "saving the shot," not bowling form. Looking pretty doesn't always pay off.

An important theorem to remember about compensation is that usually a negative action in a bowler's shot can be nullified with another negative action, providing it is in opposition to the original negative action and equal in degree.

Let's consider again the bowler who has drifted to the left. We mentioned that this could be corrected by exaggerating the swing direction more to the right. Yet, it must be mentioned that there is another option for compensation... namely, increasing the speed of the swing, which will increase the speed of the ball, thus reducing the ball's hook span and most likely holding the ball's path to the pocket.

This is compensation by means of changing a bowler's basic plan of attack.

Finally, although compensation is extremely important and used by every skilled bowler, a strong attempt should be made to limit its use as much as possible. Compensation implies the need for correction. Therefore, the more you employ compensation, the more mistakes you are making. So, even though compensation will many times correct a mistake, the less need of compensation in your game will inevitably result in a higher strike percentage.

In other words, too much compensation in your game suggests the need for a coach and a little practice.

The Nuances of Leverage and How to Make It Work for You

[Your Name Here] — Mon, 18 Jan 2010 23:14:48 +0000

BY TOM KOUROS : Reprinted Courtesy of Bowlers Journal International

ACCORDING TO AN OLD SAW, "In bowling, every league member is potentially your instructor, like it or not." To this day, fellow leaguemates still give advice, whether solicited or not. The sound bytes I most often hear are, "Get the ball out on the lane," and, "Don't rush the approach. Coordinate your feet with your swing for good timing."

For a beginner, getting the ball out on the lane was good advice. It helped prevent a tendency to hit the ball early, while contributing to ideal positioning of the shoulders at the foul line.

As for timing, I bowled several years under the assumption that this was primarily one's attempt to develop an ideal relationship between the swing and feet throughout the approach. That assumption is still a popular view in bowling, but as I learned in a physiological-anatomy class, that assumption is wrong. Technically, timing refers to an athlete's neuromuscular control as determined by the efficiency with which the muscles engage and disengage sequentially in a given activity.

For instance, if a 5-step bowler places the ball into the swing while taking the first step, the rest of the approach will be disoriented unless instinctive compensations are made. This is a mistake in method, not bad timing. Only when proper technique is demonstrated can timing accurately be assessed; and only then can the problem be unmistakingly attributed to bad timing.

What bowlers generally misconstrue as timing is the way the ball and feet are synchronized throughout the approach. Says Webster, synchronization is "to happen at the same time; to represent or arrange so as to indicate coincidence or coexistense." The basic synchronization process for a bowler employing conventional 4-step technique would find the ball following the foot when being placed into the swing; and as the weight of that first step transfers from heel to toe, the ball begins to move down into the backswing. However, many professional and top amateur bowlers have learned to modify this convention by altering the synchronization between the ball and the feet. This is done in two ways — to increase or decrease leverage in the swing.

Leverage is the transference of power. The root of the word, lever, describes a rigid structure which enables a small force at one point to be multiplied into a much larger force at another point by strategic operation of the device. In bowling, leverage describes the transfer of power from a bowler's body to the ball at the point of release. And like a lever, a bowler's muscles can be used to create maximum power, or to diminish a delivery's power. Specifically, bowling leverage measures applied hand pressure in the downswing through an interrelated footwork and swing pattern and the accelerating force(s) applied in the release.

Most top bowlers understand that delaying the ball placement can increase leverage. This often proves beneﬁcial on heavily oiled lanes. On the other hand, placing the ball into the swing earlier usually reduces leverage substantially, which could prove beneficial when the lanes are hooking strongly. Note that altering your ball placement is not as popular as it used to be because of the many options modern bowling balls provide.

Whenever I worked with the best, I often looked for an error in methodology when I heard the complaint, "My timing is off." However, if the complaint was, "I lost my rhythm," I seriously considered it to be a timing problem. Rhythm is timing, a way of orchestrating each part of the body to move at the proper moment. And because of our unique physiology, one man's rhythm is another man's nemesis.

Finally, note that between seconds there are many micro-seconds, more than enough time to allow each bowler to play the game that best accommodates his body's timing without violating the fundamental form.

BowlingTips.com : Better Tips... Better Bowling

[Your Name Here] — Thu, 17 Dec 2009 19:58:30 +0000

Welcome to bowlingtips.com. We're looking forward to bringing you great bowling tips to help improve your game. Check back weekly as we will be adding new tips and tricks via blog posts, videos and more!

We want your game to be better, and we think our bowling tips can help!