I had most problems with the stations named after people. Where I’ve been able to discover the origins of the name, that’s what you have, but a few have me stumped and appear in their original form. I will also confess to one translation being a total guess, but I’m not telling which one.

I also know that the H Line has now been extended to add “Hospitals”, but I was unable to find an online version of the latest map. Even the map on the official site still finishes at “Patrician’s Park”.

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The horses he chose, Gato (Cat) & Mancha (Spot) were 15 and 16 years old respectively. Both were wild Criollo horses, direct descendants of the horses brought to Argentina by the Spanish in the 1500s, and neither had been broken, having spent their lives up until that point loose on the Pampa.

Gato and Mancha

Tschiffely set off with his two sturdy companions on the 24th April 1925, leaving from the Sociedad Rural in Palermo, equipped with a rifle, a pistol and silver coins to pay Indian guides he would meet along his way.

The journey proved to be arduous, crossing jungle, swamps and at one point crossing the 5,900 metre Paso del Condór in Bolivia, but Gato & Mancha were more than up to the challenge. They may not have been up to the pedigree expected by Argentine society at the time, but Tschiffely wrote of them, “Their sturdy legs, short thick necks and Roman noses are as far removed from the points of a first-class English hunter as the North Pole from the South. Handsome is and handsome does, however, and I am willing to state my opinion boldly that no other breed in the world has the capacity of the Criollo for continuous hard work.“.

Gato fell lame in Mexico after being kicked by a mule but Tschiffely and Mancha continued onwards and 3 years, 4 months and 6 days after leaving Palermo, they arrived on 5th Avenue in New York on the 20th September 1928 (the date is now National Horse Day in Argentina) to a heroes welcome.

Gato & Mancha lived out their well-deserved retirement in Argentina and they died aged 36 and 40 respectively in the 1940s. Their preserved remains are displayed in the Emilio Udaondo museum in Luján. Tschiffely died aged 59 and is buried on an estancia in Ayacucho.

A more detailed account of the journey can be found here.

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Less than a week later and there is already controversy as the mayor of Buenos Aires, Mauricio Macri announced this morning that Line A will be closed for “between 2 weeks and 2 months” from a yet-to-be-determined date in January to allow improvement work to take place so that new trains can run on the line.

So, tragically, this looks like the end of the line for the 99-year-old wooden trains that currently run on Line A, although as they are unable to say how long the work will last or in fact when it will start, nothing is yet certain.

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The centre, around the Obelisco, has lots of hotels and for many first-time visitors may seem like an obvious choice. However most of the hotels in the area are either soulless corporate chains or are more geared to large tour groups and many of those have seen better days. One exception is the Casa Calma which exudes a very relaxing, un-centre vibe and since the pedestrianisation of the street outside it lives up to its name even more.

Nearby San Telmo offers a much cooler and urban selection and is the perfect place to go your own way and hang out in a hip loft for the duration of your stay. San Telmo is also home to great value hostels some of which have hotel-quality double rooms at very hostel-like prices.

However, it’s Palermo that rules the roost when it comes to finding somewhere different and special to spend your time in Buenos Aires. Anywhere will be in walking distance of a huge variety of shops, bars and restaurants and with many hotels boasting leafy, shady gardens the danger is you’ll find yourself spending more time lounging around than getting out and exploring.

Highlights include Home, with its swimming pool, garden and weekly cocktail nights, Fierro with a fantastic restaurant offering one of the best Sunday brunches in the city, and the funky Mine, slap-bang in the middle of trendy Palermo Soho.

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Mural, San Telmo

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I’ve recently had 2 such writeups that I would recommend you also take a look and see what people get from my tour and thanks to both Dominika and Angela for taking the time to document their time with me!

• Buenos Aires Local Tours with Jonathan
• Buenos Aires by Foot…and by Train…and by Bus!

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Bust of Juan D Perón, CGT Building

The CGT (Confederación General del Trabajo, the umbrella trade union movement) headquarters are on Azopardo, on the block behind the Engineering Faculty on the not very interesting side of Paseo Colón. The building was opened in 1950 and doesn’t appear to have changed much since. The movement itself played a vital role in Peronism and at its height represented more than 6 million workers and 2,500 unions.

CGT Building Entrance. Note the busts of Perón & Evita.

Following Evita’s death on 26th July 1952, her body was quickly embalmed and displayed in public in the Ministry of Labour building (which currently features 2 enormous murals of her) for the grieving nation to pay their respects (more than 2,000 people needed treatment for injuries sustained in the rush of trying to get closer to the body). In August the body was moved to her old office in the CGT building, where it was kept under lock and key and only visiting dignitaries and ambassadors were allowed to visit. I was told that Dr Pedro Ara held the only key and even Perón had to ask permission to see the body.

Evita’s Office, CGT Building, Buenos Aires

Kept here whilst plans were being made for the construction of a huge monument in her memory, plans changed in December 1955 when Perón was overthrown by a military coup and fled into exile. It was made illegal to possess any image of the Peróns, or to even say their names and Evita’s body was taken from the office by the incoming regime and disappeared without a trace. 16 years later it was revealed that the body had been buried under an assumed name in Milan. Initially taken to Spain to be with Perón once again, her body made it back to Argentina in 1975 after Perón’s return and subsequent death.

Eva Perón’s National ID Card – note the number 000001

The office today is a small shrine to the woman and the legend, the walls are adorned with images of her and newspaper clippings of the important events surrounding her life.

Newspapers on display

Entrance to the office is free, simply turn up at the CGT building between 11am and 5pm and ask to see the offices. You’ll be taken up by a delightful gentleman called Alfonso, who is a sprightly 82 years old and talks affectionately of the times, as a 20 year-old, he stood in the Plaza de Mayo shouting Evita’s name as she stood on the balcony of the Casa Rosada.

Evita’s office and the 82 year-old guide

It’s a fascinating place to visit as there aren’t many rooms in Argentina that have held so much history over the years. As a museum it’s very small, and there’s very little to see beyond the newspaper clippings on the wall, but it’s brought to life by the guide who answers any questions you might have.

CGT Building, Azopardo 802

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