Burritophile: Editorial Reviews

10th Ave Burrito (Belmar, NJ) reviewed by Chris (6/10)

Sat, 30 Aug 2008 18:25:02 -0400

A few blocks from the beach boardwalk of Belmar NJ is 10th Avenue Burrito- a place that claims to server SF style burritos. Can they pull it off? It's got the right feel, but the burrito itself falls a bit short.

This place is small- only a couple tables and some stools by the window sill. Heavily tattooed guys behind the counter take your order and make your meal. The menu is organized a bit confusingly. Under burritos are the options of bean, portabella, grilled chicken or steak. The included ingredients are standard- rice, beans, cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, sour cream and salsa. Guac can be added for an extra $1.65. However, they also have pork mole, veggie, fish and veggie burritos. What's not clear is that those latter four don't have all the included ingredients.

A fan of mole, i went for the pork mole. That's a combination i've not had before. It arrived a few minutes later. No foil, despite the burrito blueprint on the wall clearly showing how foil should be included. But it wrapped impeccably well. No foil, but this thing would have stayed together if i'd played football with it. I bit in, and it was nice and flavorful, and i was happy. But soon after, i realized it was all meat. The entire first half was nothing but meat, while the second half was mostly rice with bits of meat thrown in- not a good internal dispersal. While the meat started moist and flavorful, as i moved through it became drier and blander. By the end i really didn't want any more. The only other ingredient was cheese, which was melty though a bit sparse. The missing ingredients meant the burrito was one-dimensional. One of their standard burritos i would expect to have more flavors. If only their menu had been more clear on that point.

I also ordered some chips and guacamole. You get a monstrous basket of chips- thick and tasty but greasy. The guac is very chunky, but a bit bland. It didn't taste like much beyond avocado, despite the obvious bits of other ingredients in the mix. Unfortunately, it's $5 for this. Add a funky bottled drink and my lunch jumped to nearly $15. Not a good value. Best to go here with a friend so you can split the chips.

I'm a bit torn what to give this place, as i don't think i had the best that they offer. On the basis of my burrito, i'd score it a 6. But the extra ingredients in their standard burrito would have vastly improved the one i had. With luck, i'll find my way back to Belmar to try one.

Danny's Tacos Restaurant (Pasadena, CA) reviewed by Mark (7.5/10)

Mon, 25 Aug 2008 16:52:16 -0400

There is no denying the magic of a great San Francisco style burrito, but there are other styles. After spending so much time and energy pursuing the pinnacle of the burrito-maker's art, it is easy to forget how good a simple LA street burrito can be. The basic LA street burrito is finely chopped skirt steak, spanish rice, pinto beans, fresh onions and cilantro, doused with some variety of dried red chile sauce. You can find them all over Southern California, and I tend to give them all scores in the 5.5-6.0 range. I'm pretty sure that the carne asada burrito I just had at Danny's is what all of those other burritos were trying to be.

What made this burrito stand out against so large a field?

1. outstanding ingredient integration - I could see separate areas of meat and rice, but there was decidedly more meat than rice, and I never got any bites of "just rice". The beans, onion and cillantro were evenly distributed throughout the burrito.

2. ample and well distributed (smoky chipotle) red chile sauce - not so much as to dull the taste buds, but enough to ensure that every bite was well flavored, complemented by a few drops of lime juice.

There was nothing unusual about the recipe or any of the ingredients ... but the assembly really came together for me ... and reminded me again that great burritos come in all styles.

The guy who took my order spoke fine English and he even turned down the "Corridos" when I came in :-)

Burrito Loco (West Chester, PA) reviewed by Chris (6.5/10)

Sat, 23 Aug 2008 13:54:57 -0400

Right across High Street from the University of West Chester is Burrito Loco. Their slogan is "The Healthy Mexican Food Alternative", though i see little that makes them particularly healthier than anywhere else. More importantly, they call themselves a "California Style Taqueria", and in most respects they live up to that. But they do fall flat when it comes to meat.

The place could quite easily fit in anywhere in the Bay Area. It's bright, clean, yet a bit rustic. The tv was playing MTV and the Olympics instead of a soccer match. Most of the clientele appeared to be college kids.

The menu was a bit difficult to understand at first. Burritos come in three sizes, medium, regular and gordo. The gordo is massive- a close match for even the mighty super burrito at La Costena in Mountain View. I however stuck with the regular. I went for the `bergey' meat choice, which is a mixture of chicken with steak or beef (i presume ground). I went with the chicken and steak. Sadly, that's all the meat they offer. No pork at all. To do this properly, i then made it a `special', which adds guacamole and sour cream, for a buck extra.

It was served about 5 minutes after i ordered. This regular was probably a below-average in size compared to a super of the Bay Area. It was wrapped in loose foil. I opened, and dug in. It was mostly hot, but had a single cold spot near the bottom. The cheese was half-way melted. There was plenty of guac and sour cream. The rice, beans and salsa were all decent. This was would have been a good burrito if it weren't for one glaring problem- sparse meat. Only a few pieces of steak could be found, and i never found a single piece of chicken. It was nearly a veggie burrito. The meat itself wasn't bad; it was moist and tender, though bland.

One is able to order chips and salsa here, but really it's for a bunch of people. It's a massive basket that costs $3.25. I decided to abstain this day, but i did have a choice of three flavors of Jarritos. The burrito cost $7.85, which isn't a great price considering it wasn't particularly large and had only a third of the meat it should have.

Overall, i would call this a decent taqueria, and i would visit again if i lived closer. A worthy effort at making a Bay Area burrito, but still short because of the lack of meat.

Kaliente Mexican Grill (Princeton, NJ) reviewed by Chris (7/10)

Sun, 17 Aug 2008 16:59:53 -0400

Just a couple blocks down from the main downtown stretch of picturesque Princeton is Kaliente. Wedged between a Thai and and Indian place, this was a pleasant surprise find that i'd like to revisit.

When you walk in, on the wall behind the counter is the menu. First, you choose your vessel- burritos, tacos, etc. Then your choice of 6 meats (counting the veggie option), and then a choice of 4 salsas. Not only that, but you have a choice of 3 types of rice, 2 types of beans, and then all the toppings you could need, including sour cream and guacamole.

It goes without saying i went for the burrito. I was torn among the 6 meat choices. I went with the pork with salsa verde. I watched them create my burrito, completely packing in the ingredients, asking about every ingredient for inclusion. It was served wrapped in foil, squat and fat. I unwrapped. It looked like a Chipotle burrito. But there the similarities ended. The cubed pork was moist and tender and full of flavor. The verde salsa was nicely spiced with the right amount of kick. This was tasty! The cheese was melted and the ingredients distributed well.

But it was not without faults. It was so stuffed it was never assembled properly. I had stability issues from the first bite, and half way through it collapsed and i was forced to use barbaric utensils. The guacamole was pale green, very creamy. It wasn't as strong or as tangy as it should be, but nor was it tasteless. They also went a bit overboard with the cilantro.

While there is no salsa bar, one can order some chips and salsa. The chips were very good- nice and thick and cooked just right without being too greasy. I went with the ranchera salsa. It wasn't bad, but had little kick, just a bit boring.

What's really odd here is that you can order several Indian foods- samosas, khatti rolls, puri, or a mango lassi, and more. As a result, i think there is some common ownership of this place and the neighboring Thai and Indian restaurants.

The burritos here cost about $6.25 depending on meat, and the chips were a couple bucks extra. Not a great price, but not awful considering the amount of food. Sadly i did not see any Jarritos or other Mexican drinks.

Is Kaliente an authentic taqueria? No. Does it make an authentic SF burrito? Not exactly. Yet the end result is a tasty burrito that scores on most points, and misses on only a few. Definitely worth a trip if you're anywhere near Princeton and needing a proper burrito.

Green Street Taqueria (Pasadena, CA) reviewed by Mark (6.5/10)

Mon, 11 Aug 2008 15:45:39 -0400

I like this little oasis ... the charming lady at the counter, the little shaded sidewalk patio. I even kind of liked the music. It feels like a retreat. This is so much quieter and friendlier than anything on the bigger streets. I was soaking it in ... and then I felt this sudden urge to run in, push the guy behind the counter aside, and show him how to make a burrito!

I ordered a carnitas supremo (w/guacamole and sour cream). The first bite of rice was pretty good (considering that it was a bite of rice) ... highly seasoned. The second bite brought in some mild and fresh beans (also quite tasty if you were ordering a fresh bean burrito). It wasn't until the fourth bite that I found some pork (tender, shredded, nice flavor). When I got bites of onion, sour cream, guacamole, and carnitas I was pretty happy (in a mild, Pasadena, sort of way) ... but there weren't enough of those moments. This could have been a pretty good burrito, but it was made with too much rice and beans, and terrible integration.

I'm betting that the ticket is to order my burrito with HALF the normal rice and beans, and DOUBLE the normal guacamole and salsa.

Yucas on Hollywood (Los Angeles, CA) reviewed by Mark (5.5/10)

Mon, 11 Aug 2008 13:46:12 -0400

That cute little stand on Hilhurst, where the old Caja makes change out of a cigar box has now opened a a sit-down place a few blocks away ... and if you ask me it is a clear case of "plus Ã§a change, plus c'est la mÃªme chose" (the more things change, the more they stay the same). If you like exquisite subtlety in a small but otherwise boring burrito, have I go a deal for you!

Having already sampled the exquisite cocinita pibil, I decided to go for the big guns: a carnitas burrito with guacamole and extra salsa. Again I got a small burrito filled with a mixture of a subtly seasoned pinto-bean stew and shredded pork. At the bottom, I found a single (quarter inch cube) of avocado, and at one point I did taste some salsa ... they really went wild this time. Again the pork was tender and the bean stew subtle and delightful ... but again the pork was too shy to contribute any flavor.

They do a good local and business lunch trade. They clearly have a following. There is no question that considerable love has gone into the recipes and continues to go into each burrito. I just have very different expectations from a burrito, and this place doesn't speak to my taste buds.

Taqueria La Raza (Philadelphia, PA) reviewed by Chris (4/10)

Mon, 11 Aug 2008 13:36:09 -0400

A few blocks east of Temple University Hospital in north Philadelphia is La Raza- a clean, bright, friendly place that makes large, hot, but unsatisfactory burritos.

I ordered the carnitas burrito. Thankfully, the lettuce that comes with it was entirely on the outside, as a garnish for the plate. The massive slab was not wrapped in foil, and required a fork to eat. Two slices of clearly processed cheese covered the top, along with some crumbled cheese. Not a promising start. I dug in, and it was piping hot. The rice and beans were fine, but i detected none of the promised sour cream or pico. Worse, the cubed pork was sadly dry and devoid of any flavor. Even adding guac and salsa did not help, and after half way it was simply a chore to continue.

Before the burrito, i had some guacamole and nachos, chips arranged into the pile of guac to give it a flowering appearance. The chips were excellent, and the guacamole quite tasty, even with the included onion bits. The table has two squeeze bottles of salsa- one a mild red, the other a quite spicy verde. Too bad they didn't simmer the carnitas in the verde salsa- that would have been quite good. This was easily the best part of the meal.

For $6.50, this burrito is good value in terms of quantity, but not quality. But the chips and guac are not free- it's a whopping $5, because it's not a side, it's an antojito. They're good, but not -that- good. Overall then, too much for too little.

La Raza is a nice little place, perhaps with some good food, but burritos are not among them.

Dia de Pesca Si Food (San Jose, CA) reviewed by Chris (7/10)

Fri, 25 Jul 2008 12:13:08 -0400

I've been looking for a good place for seafood, particularly crab, burritos for a long time. When a coworker told me about Dia de Pesca, i knew i had to check it out while i was in the Bay Area.

This place is easy to spot from the street- bright green canopies and umbrellas, an all out-of-doors place that has a really nice feel to it. Immediately, i could see the draw for seafood lovers. Tilapia, snapper, salmon, halibut, tuna, prawn, scallops, crab and octupus are all available for a burrito. For non-seafoodies, the staples of asada/asado, verde, colorado, and their specialty chickenitza are available. I can't comment on those because i came for the seafood.

Dia de Pesca's grande is the equivalent of a super, but i had them leave off the cabbage and bell peppers. I went for the crab. It arrived about 10 minutes later, looking nicely built and amply portioned. The shredded crab could be tasted in every bite. The tortilla was a bit dry and flaky, but still flexible and solid. It had a minor tear from overstuffing but didn't collapse. The promised avocado (not guac), was more like a couple drops of food coloring- hardly there and without any flavor. The pico and cheese was likewise unnoticable.

There is no salsa bar, but chips and salsa can be bought for $1.50. Still stuffed from my marathon of burritos during the week, i decided not to sample them. Seafood grande burritos cost $7.76, while the regular meats are $7.25, a bit on the high side.

This was a decent but not outstanding burrito. The lack of guacamole and pico was the most disappointing aspect of this burrito- it could have been so much better. That said, Dia de Pesca is still worth a try if you're a lover of seafood. Without seafood, it's a 6.5. The unique ingredients are worth an extra half-point.

Papalote Mexican Grill (Mission) (San Francisco, CA) reviewed by Chris (8.5/10)

Wed, 23 Jul 2008 12:41:35 -0400

Back in the Bay Area on business, I gave this place a try on Cate's suggestion, and was not disappointed. I wish i could get here more often. I've only been here once, but it was a good visit. The place has a nice atmosphere- brightly colored walls, a modest but clean eating area, and the cooking is done in plain sight just behind the counter. It just says `eat here', and you should.

Burritos here are simply, excellent. Since i can't find it every place, i went with the chicken mole. It was solidly built, and despite a drive and a walk up to Toronado's to eat, the burrito stayed hot and melty inside. The flavor was supurb- the best mole i've ever had. That said, there were a couple faults. The excellent guacamole was found in limited quantities and only in the lower half of the burrito. Despite being a super, i found no sour cream at all. The mole is quite strong in flavor, and the extra guac and some sour cream would have been nice balancing flavors. Had they done this, they'd have gained an extra half-point.

There are plenty of options here too. Mole, chile verde, shrimp, fish, as well as the usual staples of pollo, carne asada. But veggies can be made happy here too- soyrizo, tofu. Not exactly traditional, but that's ok because they don't compromise on the traditional items.

There was no salsa bar, but chips and salsa are included. I couldn't place the flavor of the salsa, but it was unique and very tasty. Likewise, the chips were cooked just right.

The base burrito here is $6.25, plus 99 cents to make it a super. I've noticed prices of burritos in general have gone up recently, so this is not an unreasonable price. You can find bigger burritos, but these are more than sufficiently ample.

It's been a long time since i was able to review a place this good. If i lived closer, Papalote's would be a regular haunt of mine. Excellent burritos, plenty of choices, and a nice atmosphere to boot. This is seriously good eats.

Casitas Taco Al Carbon (Burbank, CA) reviewed by Mark (5.5/10)

Mon, 14 Jul 2008 18:48:42 -0400

A tale of two burritos: It was the best of burritos, it was the worst of burritos ... and I had a Dickens of a time figuring out why.

Saturday an errand took me through NoHo and I took the opportunity to grab a carne asada burrito (no lettuce, easy on the rice and beans) at Casita Tacos al Carbon on Magnolia ... and it was fully up to the standards I have come to expect from that gem. On my way home (through Burbank) I noticed a very similar sign on Victory. Today I paid them a visit and checked them out.

The menu was the same, the prices were the same, the salsa was the same, the tortillas were the same, and the lady at the counter insisted that all the meats were equally fine ... but then she also said there wouldn't be any lettuce in the burrito. Imagine my disappointment when I discovered dried up cubes of flavorless pork (shades of the Pasadena store) smothered in refritos and rice, with barely a hint of quacamole, salsa, and sour cream ... and lots of lettuce! It was edible if I drenched it in (the truly excellent tomato) salsa, but I lost interest in it by the time I was half way through it. This was not a good burrito.

I studied the printed menu, and found that this shop was part of the same chain as the great establishment on Magnolia, and the one that served up such different al pastor burritos to Gusto and me on Colorado. These places had so many things in common ... so why the wide swings in quality? Then I went to the web site, where the truth was revealed to me: this is a franchise operation. They sell you decor, menus and ingredients, to get you started in your own "quality mexican fast food restaurant". Quality food is not the result of a good recipe, or even (as I have so often seen) starting from the best ingredients. Quality food comes from the passions and sensitivities of the people who prepare it. This was clearly illustrated by my last two burritos ... the same recipes and ingredients, but one created by an artist and the other by a fast-food cook.

Thinking the franchiser might be interested in these dramatic differences in quality I called him, told him about the problems I had seen at some of the stores, and asked if he was interested. He said "no". The back of the printed menu says it all, when it proudly proclaims: "Our quality speaks to itself".