One sure sign that rock climbing has hit the mainstream is its recent appearance in several current television ads.  Miller Lite injected a humorous look at climbers into its “un-manly” series.  Heating and air-conditioning company Service Experts also used humor in a pitch featuring an “expert” ice climber.

For a more realistic, non-humorous look at the sport, there’s Citibank.  With stunning aerial photography and jaw-dropping helmet cam footage, Citi’s ad is a thirty-second testimonial to the awe-inspiring beauty and sheer thrill that attracts so many to the sport.  In fact, with such eye-popping visuals, the message of the ad itself is almost lost.

Ancient Art's Corkscrew Summit - photo credit: mountainproject.com

When the average viewer of the Citi ad recovers from the vertigo induced by it, questions usually follow.  My friends know I climb, so I find myself fielding these questions all the time, the most frequent of which is, “is it real?”  A legitimate question, I suppose, given modern green screen technology, digital imagery and computerized special effects.

The short answer to “is it real?” is a resounding “yes.”  However, Citi has used a little poetic license.  The climbers portrayed in the ad are no ordinary couple, but in fact professional rock climbers Katie Brown and Alex Honnold.

Katie Brown - photo credit: prweb.com

Brown, 29, has been climbing since age 13, and winning climbing competitions ever since.  Honnold, 26, is considered by many to be one of the best free solo climbers on the planet today.  He was recently featured on CBS’ 60 Minutes and in National Geographic’s Alone on the Wall.

Alex Honnold - photo credit: nerverush.com

The magnificent rock formation Brown and Honnold climbed is called Ancient Art.  It is part of Fisher Towers near Moab, Utah.  I had my eye on this very climb during my recent visit to Moab last summer.  Unfortunately, extreme heat and insufficient time kept me from assuming that same pose achieved by Brown atop this most iconic of desert towers.

Brown and Honnold I’m sure made easy work of Ancient Art, a climb well below the grades to which they are accustomed.  But for a climber of more modest abilities, Ancient Art can be quite challenging.  It is four pitches, 275-feet, and rated 5.10.  The exposure on the final pitch and the signature corkscrew finish make it the most popular climb on the Towers.

So next time your favorite television show is interrupted by those breathtaking images from the Utah desert, you can rest assured that what you are seeing is not the product of Hollywood magic, but indeed a 100% real showcase of two of today’s most talented climbers on one of the sport’s – my sport’s – most spectacular playgrounds.

(Credits: Homepage thumbnail courtesy of s_mestdagh on Flickr)

Bill Urbanski

Weekday lawyer, weekend farmer, and climber every chance he gets, Bill is a sub-3-hour marathoner who has stood on the summit of every state highpoint in the lower 48, and has spent nearly 3 weeks on Denali in Alaska.

 

In recent years, the CampTheSummit team has been drawn to New Hampshire for a variety of adventures: rock climbing in Rumney, winter ascents of Mount Washington to name a few.  Last Saturday, Patrick and I loaded our duffel bags with crampons, boots and ice tools in hopes of adding ice climbing to the list.  In the event ice conditions were not favorable, we threw in our packs and trail shoes for a hiking alternative.

Well, we never did get on any ice, but we did manage to find a trail. It was however a trail unlike any other we had ever encountered before – it was the Presidential campaign trail.  Tuesday was the first in the nation Presidential Primary in the Granite State and we were at ground zero.

We spent a good deal of time in and around Manchester, the state’s biggest city and consequently the epicenter of political activity.  One of our first stops was the Occupy New Hampshire movement where we scored a “bird dog” list, a comprehensive listing of all presidential candidates’ schedules.  Using this list, and checking individual candidate websites, we made the rounds from event to event.

As members of the media, the CTS team had up close and personal access to major political candidates, attending a town hall meeting with Speaker Newt Gingrich, a private house party with Governor Jon Huntsman, and a rally with Senator Rick Santorum.

Patrick working the Jon Huntsman event

Meeting non-candidate celebrities was also part of our experience and in many ways was more interesting and entertaining.  Faux candidate Vermin Supreme provided us with pure American political drama at the Santorum rally. (Supreme is the only candidate to support full funding of time travel and is the only one who regularly wears a boot on his head).  We met fellow Pennsylvanian and MSNBC political commentator Chris Matthews at a Barnes & Noble book signing.  One highlight in particular was meeting the Huntsman girls – Jon Huntsman’s daughters who have been stumping for votes along with their Dad.

After a full day of politics on Sunday, Patrick and I turned our sights on the Whites and drove into the North Country in search of snow.  We found it in places like Franconia Notch, the Cannon Cliffs, and on the grounds of the famous Mount Washington Hotel.  At the Appalachian Mountain Club lodge in Crawford Notch we were treated to a photography exhibit featuring the work of legendary alpinist Bradford Washburn.

Patrick shooting the Mount Washington Hotel

Our day concluded with a visit to Dixville Notch, near the Canadian border, where in the Ballot Room of the Balsams Hotel, we witnessed the first nine ballots being cast in the 2012 Presidential Primary.

For a couple of outdoor enthusiasts, it was disappointing not to swing our ice tools and kick our crampons into New Hampshire ice, but the weekend of Presidential politics was a thoroughly unique experience, and it was packed with every bit of adventure we’ve come to expect in our more regular, non-political, natural pursuits.

Cannon Cliff

Bill Urbanski

Weekday lawyer, weekend farmer, and climber every chance he gets, Bill is a sub-3-hour marathoner who has stood on the summit of every state highpoint in the lower 48, and has spent nearly 3 weeks on Denali in Alaska.

 

Watch this unlikely batter between a mountain biker and a snowboarder on a downhill snow course.

Patrick gensel

Patrick is a lover of all things adventure and photography. When he is not at home in Northeast PA, he can be found traveling with his camera and climbing. One of his most memorable experiences outdoors is his recent summit of Mount Rainier.

    

Wolverine’s patented ICS (Individual Comfort System) technology is back in 2012 with a splash of color in several new trail hiker styles.  For those unfamiliar, ICS is a gel disc that sits in the shoe’s heel, just under the OrthoLite® footbed.  Simply pop out the disc and spin it to your desired level of comfort.  Positioning of the disc also allows those who have issues with under- or over-pronation to add cushioning to the outer or inner heel.

Once you have the ICS disc dialed in to your individual needs, you can hit the trail in comfort and with confidence.  I took the new 2012 Pulsar for a spin, and in addition to the comfort, for a low-cut trail hiker, I was instantly struck by the stability of the ride.  An external heel counter adds ankle support and action frame stabilizers provide a secure ankle wrap to prevent lateral movement.

The Pulsar is also equipped with breathable GORE-TEX® waterproof membranes, and rugged Vibram® outsoles with Claw-Trax™ traction – a great combination to keep your feet dry and your footing sure on just about any terrain you will encounter.

I consider myself a runner first and hiker second, so shoe weight is always a factor for me, even in a trail hiker.  My size 10 Pulsars tipped the scales at 18.9 ounces, a surprisingly low figure for a shoe that provides the features and noticeable level of security normally found in a much heavier and clunkier hiking boot.

Stylish and comfortable, with the ruggedness you’d expect from Wolverine, the Pulsar will be available in four vibrant colors for men, and five for women.  Coming this February to your favorite outdoor retailer, the Pulsar is expected to sell for $165.  Also available at www.wolverine.com.

Bill Urbanski

Weekday lawyer, weekend farmer, and climber every chance he gets, Bill is a sub-3-hour marathoner who has stood on the summit of every state highpoint in the lower 48, and has spent nearly 3 weeks on Denali in Alaska.

 

This girl is a machine! Plan and simple. She conquers in competition, she conquers outdoors, and she is only 18 years old. I had the opportunity to watch this girl compete at last years Winter Burn at PRG, and she was just incredible to watch, so graceful and determined. There is no doubt in my mind that she deserves this send.

Patrick gensel

Patrick is a lover of all things adventure and photography. When he is not at home in Northeast PA, he can be found traveling with his camera and climbing. One of his most memorable experiences outdoors is his recent summit of Mount Rainier.

    

Initially I had my doubts about the Omni-heat liner found on many of Columbia’s products, but after a few cold mornings, where this jacket repeatedly warmed up in little to no time at all, I am sold on those little silver dots. Omni-Heat technology works by reflecting your body heat back at you to help recycle said heat. This jacket is insulated with Columbia 700 fill-power down which works in tandem with the stretch side panels to efficiently retain heat.

One thing that I found unique about this jacket is the inclusion of thumb holes in the jacket cuffs. While the thumb holes are a great addition, I find the cuffs to be a bit cumbersome when trying to look at my watch. I almost have to take my arm out of the sleeve to look at my large face watch. That said, I believe the cuffs play a major part in the heat retention of this jacket, and for that I find it to be only a minor inconvenience.

All of the pockets on this jacket zip shut which is a great, but not always common feature on a jacket of this sort, and the internal breast pocket has revived the batteries of my electronic devices more than once. Though it is not packable in its own pocket, the included drawstring bag packs it down to a convenient stashable size.

The Columbia Reach The Peak™ Hybrid Down Jacket retails for $180.00.

Patrick gensel

Patrick is a lover of all things adventure and photography. When he is not at home in Northeast PA, he can be found traveling with his camera and climbing. One of his most memorable experiences outdoors is his recent summit of Mount Rainier.

    

The allure of the desert tower has long held sway over my climbing Psyche.  When I first laid eyes on Devils Tower in Wyoming in 2004, I knew I had to climb it – and I didn’t even start climbing seriously until 2009.  I’ve since climbed Devils Tower twice, and I will climb it again.

So before flying west to join Patrick for the return trip east, I researched several classic towers located along our expected route back.  There was the Grand Canyon’s Mount Hayden, Ancient Art with its mesmerizing corkscrew finish, and perhaps the most famous of all desert towers, Castleton in Moab.  Unfortunately, my hopes of reaching these lofty summits were dashed by a compressed travel schedule and the oppressive late summer desert heat.

Independence Monument Beta

Undeterred, I traced our prospective route and discovered Independence Monument, a 450 foot monolith within Colorado National Monument, just outside of Grand Junction.  It was farther north, which meant it was cooler, and it was practically right off the highway.  And, as chance would have it, 2011 marked the 100^th anniversary of its first ascent.  It was perfect.

The first ascent of Independence Monument was completed on June 14, 1911 by Colorado National Monument’s most fervent promoter and its first superintendent, John Otto.   Otto drilled numerous holes in the soft sandstone and pounded pipes into the holes to form a ladder of sorts.  The pipes have long since been removed, but the ever-eroding holes remain, and the route, still bearing Otto’s name, is now free.  Today, locals recreate Otto’s first ascent with a climb and a ceremonial flag raising on the summit each Independence Day.

Patrick on the approach

Our assault on Otto’s Route began at the home of Charlie and Diane Winger in Montrose, Colorado, about an hour away where we had stayed the night before.  Charlie and Diane were up a 5:00 AM whipping up a breakfast feast of Belgian waffles and fruit smoothies.  It was perfect fuel for the monumental climbing they lay ahead.  Charlie and Diane drove with us to the trail-head, and Charlie even hiked the forty-five minute approach with us.

When we arrived at the base, we found that the trail-head sign-in book was correct – while there were many hikers along the trail, we were the only climbers.  We had the tower to ourselves.

Patrick loaded his harness with his rack: set of nuts, stoppers, cams with several duplicates up to #2, one #3 and one #4.  I brought along a larger set of tri-cams to add to his weight.

Patrick stemming the first pitch

As I belayed and Charlie snapped pictures, Patrick worked quickly and efficiently on the 5.5 first pitch of 140 feet.  Charlie wished us well and departed as I began to clean the pitch, hauling a second rope in my pack as I climbed.

Patrick had set a hanging belay at the first set of anchors, and I climbed past him to a large ledge where we transferred gear so I could lead.

Pitch two is 70 feet and 5.8.  The beta suggests protecting the crux with a #4 cam towards the top of an overhanging off-width crack.  Thinking I had not yet reached this point, I used my #3 and pulled through the run out section only to discover bolted anchors just above.  The #4 was never placed.  Otto’s pipe holes had provided all the measure of security I needed.  Indeed, I placed just two pieces of gear on the entire pitch.

Patrick in the Time Tunnel

Patrick took back lead on pitch three.  It begins as a class 4 scramble and ends with a traverse through the “Time Tunnel.”  Patrick unwittingly added a slight variation by scrambling up and over the signature Tunnel.

We had now reached “Lunchbox Ledge,” which as advertised is a large, comfortable ledge with excellent views.  The ledge is so large there was no need to set an anchor.  Patrick belayed my lead on pitch four as though he was belaying from the ground.

The final two pitches were two of the most unique pitches I’ve ever climbed.  Pitch four is a blank sandstone face with no place for pro.  Pitons however are available to sling, and a few steps chopped by Otto a century ago were protection enough.  I considered stringing four and five together, but opted instead to bring Patrick up to the chains, if for no other reason than to provide him with a better view of the final pitch.

Looking up at pitch five

Pitch five begins as a 5.0 no pro needed crawl up a sandstone ramp of increasing grade.  About twenty feet up, I plugged a #2 tri-cam in one of Otto’s pipe holes – perfect placement.  The crux is fifty feet up as the ramp becomes vertical and an overhanging roof must be negotiated.  There are two pitons under the roof, but I chose to sling only the first one.  The final moves are fairly juggy, but with an excessive amount of gear hanging off my harness, and almost non-stop laughter as I pulled through, I think I made it more awkward than it needed to be.

From the final belay station, which is also the first rappel station, there remains just a six-foot hop up to a spacious flat summit.

Patrick and I spent about twenty minutes at the summit where the weather was perfect and the views were magnificent.  We signed the summit register, took the obligatory summit shots and it was time to descend.  With three single rope rappels from the top, and a final double rope rap, we were back on the ground.

Patrick and Bill - Obligatory summit shot

Independence Monument was very enjoyable, very unique, and I would commend it to anyone who is a solid 5.8 trad leader.  I also suggest you take the time to read up on John Otto.  He is considered by many to be the John Muir of western Colorado.  A skilled trail builder, and an avid conservationist, he was also an eccentric patriot who was jailed three times for “insanity.”  He married at the base of Independence Monument, only to have his wife leave him weeks later when she realized she could not adjust to his hermit-like lifestyle (he was fond of saying, “I live in a tent and I pay no rent”).  But the enduring legacy of John Otto is the 20,500 acre tract of canyon land just outside Grand Junction that, because of his vision, his labor and his persistence is now preserved for us all as Colorado National Monument.

Bill Urbanski

Weekday lawyer, weekend farmer, and climber every chance he gets, Bill is a sub-3-hour marathoner who has stood on the summit of every state highpoint in the lower 48, and has spent nearly 3 weeks on Denali in Alaska.

 

Czech BASE Team – Swiss 2011 from MarrtyCZ on Vimeo.

Patrick gensel

Patrick is a lover of all things adventure and photography. When he is not at home in Northeast PA, he can be found traveling with his camera and climbing. One of his most memorable experiences outdoors is his recent summit of Mount Rainier.

    

I am sure those of you who read this site often have heard this story before. It was August of 2010 and Me and two others had just finished a successful summit of Devils Tower via the Durrance Route and were beginning to make the 1200 foot descent when we were caught off guard by an early afternoon thunderstorm. Winds picked up to nearly forty miles an hour blowing our two sixty meter ropes over our heads like they were paper. As we descended, our situation got worse when our ropes got stuck and it began to lighting fiercely. Seemingly stranded on a three by five ledge several hundred feet off the ground, and being pounded by rain, this was the first time in my life I had thought to myself “Shit, I’m gonna die.” So my question for everyone is, have you had an experience like this? how did it make you feel, how did you keep panic at bay and what did you do when you ultimately survived?

Stressed to the core

After several hours of struggling with ropes and weathering the storm, we arrived in the bowling alley, humbled and severely dehydrated. It was an experience I won’t soon forget.

Patrick gensel

Patrick is a lover of all things adventure and photography. When he is not at home in Northeast PA, he can be found traveling with his camera and climbing. One of his most memorable experiences outdoors is his recent summit of Mount Rainier.