March 31, 2015: Winding Stair Gap (US 64) to Wayah Bald Shelter, 11.0 miles, 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

Author’s note: Journal entries are incomplete for March 28, 29 and 30. I’ll catch up on them shortly and get them posted. So what if things are a little out of order. I sure am. Meanwhile, let’s move on to the last day of March…

Huge day on the trail for only 11 trail miles. Steep initial ascent from Winding Stair Gap, then wonderful contouring up and around the ridges and through the gaps. Enjoyable ascent, felt strong. Reached upper side trail to Siler Bald Shelter. Dropped my pack there and headed in the opposite direction up the grassy slope of Siler Bald. Probably a half-mile to the summit, all in the open. So incredibly worth the time and effort. 360-degree views from peak. Best mountaintop so far.

Wayah Bald in view off to the north, my next objective. About five miles, didn’t think it would be too tough. Wrong answer. Just kept hiking up and up, around and around but honestly seemed to get nowhere fast. Old steep forest roads, then rocky, eroded trail. Crossed dirt summit road several times. Rested often. It was warm out, probably 70F at least. But the trail was exhausting me. Packed weighed on me, seemed heavier than normal. Maybe just not my afternoon.

Reached what I a thought was a high point, right at the junction of the Bartram Trail, a 100-mile route from Cheoah Bald SE toward Georgia. Gotta look into that more. Meanwhile…

Bartram Trail and AT coincide for a couple miles. Still more climbing. Reached a spring and stopped to refill my empty water bladder. Saddled up and continued on. Was at least another hour and two miles before I finally topped out at the paved path that leads from the parking lot to the stone tower on top of Wayah Bald (pronounced “why-uh”) at 5300 feet.

Turned and happily followed the walkway to the peak and the beautiful old stone tower. Lots of thruhikers hanging on the stone patio. A few touristy types also showed up. Climbed the tower for the fun of it, but the views were just as good from below off the side of the patio.

Could see to Cheoah Bald and Fontana Lake and thence to the Smokies. South the vista ranged to Albert Mtn and well beyond. Amazing jumble of peaks and valleys. Lots of wild country interspersed with farmlands and small settlements.

Called Fran and got the scoop on the snow at home on MDI, then headed down the one mile to the Wayah Bald Shelter. Set up inside. Now six inside a couple hours later. Long walk to water, but it’s good.

Windy and cool now at 6:30. Dinner is done and I will be soon. Will finish here then head for my book and bag. Nice spot here up high, probably 4500 feet. On steep slope with views through the trees. This morning started early, in the dark at 6:30am. Needed headlamp in bathroom to take shower as light had blown last night. Then finished packing up the pack with the new goods from the resupply box and the clean clothes from the washer.

Rolled outside to meet other hikers shortly before 8. Waited together for church van to take us to breakfast. Yep, the nice folks at the First Baptist Church make a pancake and bacon breakfast for hikers every morning for about a month in springtime. They were awesome folks and happy to feed us till we burst.

Stacks of pancakes, piles of bacon, banana bread, OJ and coffee. We sat around and really enjoyed. Church members, hosts and cooks sat at the tables with us. Wonderful conversation. Young pastor Jack offered a brief talk on their church and their faith. Tastefully done for all.

Van took us back to motel. At 9 hopped aboard the shuttle back to Winding Stair Gap, the bus driven once again by Ron Haven, the motel owner. He loves to talk and he’s a hoot and he loves his little town of Franklin.

Dropped off next to the highway at the gap, then headed upslope. Good day.

7pm… Sun turning the entire mountainside across from the shelter a brilliant orange. Wind is up, but it’s still warm out. I’m in the sleeping bag with a good book. Thank you, John Grisham, as always.

March 28, 2015: Muskrat Creek to Carter Gap Shelter, 12.5 miles, 10:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

No other footprints in the snowy woods told me I was the first hiker of the day to reach the peak of Standing Indian Mountain, a glorious and grassy summit with an otherworldly vista worthy of its reputation as “the Grandstand of the Southern Appalachians.” The summit is on a side trail (AT used to go right over the top) which is not clearly marked, so many people miss it. That’s so unfortunate.

I had Standing Indian to myself for a good half-hour before three other hikers showed up. Spread my lunch out in the sun and just sat and enjoyed the view from 5500 feet. Oh so nice. Jumbles of big mountains forever on the horizon.

A long and quite wonderful ridge walk followed after Standing Indian, and chugged along happily for hours, making good time and miles. Landed amid the rhododendron thickets at Carter Gap at around 4:30 quite pleased with my first entire day in the Nantahala National Forest of North Carolina.

Sun was still out big time and dried gear and warmed myself as I sat in a log and read and wrote some. Quite a contrast to this morning, when I recorded 20F at the ridge top campsite at Muskrat Creek. Ended up with just a dusting of snow left in the ground after all the wind blew through, but oh my was it cold. Kept sliding downslope in the tent. Guess my site was all that level after all. Slept but not that well. A bit in the cold side.

I lay in the bag determined not to move until the sun was up and over the campsite. Meantime I fired up the stove inside the tent (carefully of course) and cooked up coffee and cocoa and some oatmeal. Read some while waiting for the sun, which finally made its way overhead around 8:30. With cold hands and fingers, packed up the goods and took off, but until I’d had my latest start yet. No matter, I had all day and I didn’t care. One big mountain and 12 miles. No problem. Daylight till 8 anyway, why hurry.

To note, somebody at the shelter recorded 9F this morning. Whatever the real temp, it was cold.

Old log Carter Gap Shelter of 1977 days is gone. Spring in glen of rhododendron still same. Got some talkers here at the shelter. Blah blah blah. Bet they’re snorers too. It’s an ear plugs night.

Goodly number of hikers bailed on Chunky Gal Trail out to US 64 this morning. Cold weather enough for them. Dropping like flies.

March 27: Dicks Creek Gap to Muskrat Creek Shelter, 11.5 miles, 9:15 a.m. to 4:15 p.m.

Good night’s rest. Had bottom bunk in smaller room this second night. Made a difference. Ate breakfast out of the hiker box, cherry & cheese danish and fruit cup. Coffee from kitchen in main building.

Hostel like an airport terminal, busy busy with hiker scattering all over North Georgia, back to this gap or that gap or to town via hostel shuttles. These folks do a great job here, the most polite and helpful people you could ask for. Bob Gabrielson, the owner, shuttled a group of us back up to Dicks Creek Gap.

Eight miles to the NC border at Bly Gap. Slow going in the initial up hills in the mist and rain. Picked up the pace a few miles in and then just couldn’t slow down. Cruised right by the side trail to Plumorchard Gap Shelter, my planned lunch stop. Felt so good, just kept moving. Ate a granola bar on the go and made for Bly Gap.

Passed the GA/NC line and chugged up to the gap proper, where the famous old gnarled oak tree sits. Camped right next to it in ’77. Cold and windy at first, then calm. Enjoyed lunch at the tree. Love this special place.

Steep steep climb out of the gap and up Courthouse Bald, then more grinding trail up to Sharp Top. Nice lookouts, lots of wild country all around here. Now in the Nantahala National Forest. Good hiking beyond, much of it on contours with only a few minor ups and downs. Nearing Muskrat Creek, spied sweet ridge top campsite just up from trail with westerly aspect for afternoon sun.

Continued the 100 yards to the shelter to check it out just for yucks. Got a less than warm greeting from its denizens. Some BS about it being full or whatever (AT shelters are NEVER full; there’s always room for one more. That’s the maxim). Fine by me, have your shelter. And your noise and all the many tents around. Today I just didn’t care to argue with idiots.

Back to the ridge I pitched camp on this awesome site. Warm sun but wind picked up. Temp began to drop sharply. Forecast predicted temps in the 20s. Skies threatening. Cooked supper, then soon pulled everything in the tent. Put tights on for extra warmth.

Holy moly, it began to snow around 8pm. Wild! In no time there was a half-inch around the tent. Crazy wind too. Read book till my fingers got too cold. Damn, it’s cold out! Tuned in micro-radio for a little news and music. Howling outside the tent walls as darkness descends.

March 26: Top of Georgia Hostel, 0 miles.

Day off today, and why not? Beautiful place to do it. Up for 8am breakfast, a feast of scrambled eggs, sausage links, toast, OJ and coffee. Not bad for $8.

Spent most of the day in the main building at one of the big picnic tables writing and blogging. A lot of work, tried to catch up, but a bit difficult getting used to working without a real keyboard and mouse. Working with sketchy Internet and this iPad Mini and its touchscreen keyboard. I’m making it work but it’ll take some time to be more proficient for sure.

Also spent most of the day in hospital scrubs, the casual lounge wear of choice here at Top of Georgia, which gives you scrubs upon arrival, plus a towel. For $5 they do your laundry for you and deliver it to your bunk when done. Meantime you’re supposed to wear the scrubs while you get your entire kit washed and dried. Thing is, most of us around here just stay in the damn comfy things 24/7. Some hikers even wear them into town. It’s a hoot. I swear, sometimes I look around here and it feels like I’m a patient in a psychiatric ward. Perhaps that’s more close to the truth then I care really think about.

Dried out the tent in the yard. Partly sunny most of day but cool. Free shuttles run to Hiawassee at 1, 2 and 3 each afternoon. Hikers in and out all day. Busy place, but this is the season. Helped Tortoise Sal with her blisters, doctored them up as best as possible. One on the outside of each the size of a quarter. Ouch. Bad, buts she’s grateful for the help.

Note: In a week and some 80 miles of hiking so far I’ve had not even the hint of a blister. And I don’t plan on any. Chalk that up – with some luck – to my tremendous Lowa Renegade boots. Like wearing a comfy slipper but with awesome support.

Cherry tree and forsythia out front of hostel are in bloom. Springish right here, wish it were at home in Maine. Brutal winter. But good skiing!

Didn’t really get a whole lot of true downtime today I guess but it was a good day nonetheless. Met lots of nice people, chatted up a few. Good crowd out here on the trail. Fun people.

Hopped aboard the 6pm dinner shuttle to town. Made a Hardee’s to-go stop. Big chicken sandwich and onion rings, huge sweet tea. None of which survived the ride back up to the mountains and the hostel.

9pm now, still hikers milling about, conversation, games, guitar. Feeling quite relaxed and happy. Liking this thru-hiker thing all over. But then, damn if I didn’t know I would.

North into North Carolina tomorrow. Weather looks good.

March 25, 2015: Campsite south of Tray Gap to Dicks Creek Gap (Top of Georgia Hiker Hostel 1/2 mile below Dicks Creek Gap), 13.0 miles, 9:10 a.m. to 4:15 p.m.

Nice grassy campsite at old cheese factory site in high gap. Stars were out and cool winds were blowing when I went to bed at 8:00 pm. Read some of The Hobbit, then tuned in the mini radio for some music and news. Don’t think I lasted very long. Slept solid until 3:15 then rolled around and slept a couple more two-hour stretches. Sometime in the night it began to rain so I pulled the pack in close to the tent and zipped the tent fly closed.

Still raining at dawn, heavily at times. Not terribly interested in getting up, so I lay still and just listened to it rain. Around 8, got in gear and packed up. Stowed wet tent and set stove ablaze for coffee/cocoa mix. Donned rain gear, ate a granola bar and took off in the rain and fog.

Not a bad ascent of Tray Mountain, 1000 feet up but got there just fine. Couldn’t see a thing of course from the summit rocks so carried on. Passed up side trail to Tray Mountain Shelter. Hit the Swag of the Blue Ridge and just kept on trucking. Wonderful roller coaster walking, gap then peak, gap then peak. Shed the rain gear early on. Occasional bursts of showers only rest of day’s hike. Lunch at Addis Gap, then big grunt over Kelly Knob, the second 4000-footer for the day.

Original plan was to stop for the day at Deep Gap, but bypassed the shelter and kept on the long and winding and up and down road to Dicks Creek Gap and US 76. Both Addis Gap and Dicks Creek Gap brought back big memories of 1977 hike. Stayed at Addis and lunched at the concrete picnic table at Dicks. Last time I saw Mike Collins that year. Trail angel had bottles of water at the gap.

Ten minutes later the shuttle guy from Top of Georgia Hostel showed up and carted a group of thru’s to the hostel a half-mile west. This place I heaven on earth. Assigned bunk, jumped in hot shower, gathered up laundry in basket they gave me (they do it for you for $5). Got a cold Coke upon arrival.

Caught 5:30 dinner shuttle van into Hiawassee, about 12 miles west, provided at no charge to hostel guests. Chowed down big at Hardee’s. Lots of hikers smiling back at hostel. Got my name in for breakfast. Tried to dry the tent outside, but now it’s raining again. Maybe tomorrow. Arrived here a day ahead of schedule so am taking a zero day here tomorrow. That means I’m staying put. Relax, write, do not too much. Nice.

March 24, 2015: Low Gap Shelter to old Cheese Factory site, 13.4 miles, 9:10 a.m. to 5:15 p.m.

Brilliant day of walking. From Low Gap to Chattahoochee Gap the trail contoured wonderfully on old and growing in forest roads. Warm sun, blue skies, cool breeze. Great views of wild mountain lands through the bare treetops. Up and down on narrow ridge of Tennessee Divide to Chat Gap, another spot where I spent a glorious evening in ’77. Reminisced a bit, then pushed on to Blue Mountain Shelter for lunch. Awesome mountain top spot to camp, did so here in ’89.

Ahead, up over Blue Mtn, then long descent to Unicoi Gap, where more trail magic appeared. Moses and Slayer, 2014 thru’s, had a pot of mac and cheese cooked up plus burgers and soda. Topped my burger with a heaping of mac and cheese and downed an A&W root beer.

Long and sweaty climb out of the gap; 3 miles to the top of Rocky Mtn. Another tough one with a full belly. Rewarded up top with nice views from several great lookouts. Ambled on through the azalea and rhododendron tunnels to the campsite, a nice grassy clearing, apparently an old cheese factory site, so says the guide. Another excellent spring. Have yet to treat water. Why when it’s flowing right out of the earth clear and clean.

First time setting up new tent. Lime green, love it. Eureka Spitfire one-man. 7:53pm and sun is down. Getting cool. Big time gnats out today. Swallowed a half-dozen anyway. Didn’t think these guys bite, but I ended up with a few.

March 23, 2015: Mountain Crossings at Neels Gap to Low Gap Shelter, 11.5 miles, 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

Rain at dawn. Clearing by the time I got up at about 7:45. Great that Fran stayed at the hostel to last night, even on the bunk right above me. Hikers all over this morning, but in an orderly manner. Fran microwaved us cups of coffee. Could’ve waited for the store to open for coffee and breakfast sandwiches.

Hard to leave hostel, nothing unusual there. walked through the stone arch of the main building; only place where AT goes through a structure. Headed north to Bull Gap, where I’d camped in 1977. Fran hiked along to the top of Levelland Mtn, then we said another beautiful goodbye. Going to miss you my dear!

Bit of a roller coaster trail way over Wolf Laurel Top and Cow Rock Mtn. Long descent to Tesnatee Gap at 3500 feet. Lunched there with other hikers. Trail magic of sparkling water in cooler at gap. big ascent of Wildcat Mtn followed, tough right after lunch. Up on top of the ridge, reached section Fran and I hiked on 2008 trip to Atlanta and then to the mountains here.

Great but all too short ridge walk, then descent to Hogpen Gap. Someone had planted yellow daffodils at a couple spots on descent, the only sign of spring for many miles. Next 4.4 miles… fabulous high ridge walking along the Tennessee Divide. The Divide separates the major watersheds in this region of the country; all waters east of the Divide flow into the Atlantic while everything west flows into the Gulf of Mexico.

Blue skies, puffy white clouds, warm sun, cool breeze. Hiking on top of the world today!

Low Gap Shelter an old-style Georgia AT shelter, same one that was here in 1977 for sure. Spring and small stream. Nice sunny hollow, although sun is dipping below the ridge at 6:45. Three in the shelter, more than two-dozen tents scattered about.

Good day coming up tomorrow, about 13.5 miles to other side of Unicoi Gap. All good. Great, great hike this far.

March 22, 2015: Woods Hole Shelter to Mountain Crossings at Neels Gap, 3.2 miles, 9:10 a.m to 11:40 a.m.

Quiet night, good sleep. Intermittent showers this morning. Beautiful spot, this Woods Hole. I’ll be back.

Broke camp and headed up Blood Mountain. Trail used to go to Slaughter Gap, but has been rerouted. Like the new trail, which switchbacks up the south slope now. Eventually intersected the old trail inherited up, what I always thought was like an old carriage road. Threaded through the azalea thickets, then popped of on top at the beautiful old stone summit shelter at 4400 feet. Did not stay here in 1977 but enjoyed a very fine, if cold and windy, night here in 2001.

Dropped the pack and climbed the rocks to grab the grand southerly vista that ranges all the way to Springer Mountain and beyond. Outstanding! Love this spot. Cold and windy today, but no matter. Signed the register in the hut, then climbed back out on the rocks for a final look-see.

More great views to the south and east, then to the north opened up on the descent down the east ridge. Not sure, but figured I was looking at Tray Mountain, the Stekoahs and perhaps the Smokies up now. Wow.

Continued the long and winding descent to Neels Gap. Practically ran the last 100 yards to the highway. Waited for traffic, then dashed across to the parking lot of Mountain Crossings and there met Fran. Woo-hoo!

She and I and several other hikers enjoyed snacks on the stone patio, including a cold beer. Decided to alter the hike plan and grab a bunk here and call it a day, albeit a short one. After all, this place has everything pretty much. Complete outfitter store, food, hostel, showers, laundry, mail. Goodness, what more could a hiker ask for?

Had a blast hanging out at Neels Gap all afternoon. Hikers coming in and out, greetings all sound like e were all old friends. Took a most excellent and much needed shower (more on AT “hiker stink” later), did a load laundry. Hostel hasn’t changed much in decades, love it. Feeling like a real thru-hiker having made it to this special place.

Poked around the retail store but try as I might I simply couldn’t find a single thing I needed. Figure that’s a good thing. But other hikers, oh my, they spent bundles of cash on new gear. Mountain Outfitters does a pack shakedown, a complete and free assessment of what you’re carrying, which for an awful lot of people is way too much. So many have bought the backpacker farm here, if you will. And while that cannot guarantee success, it’s a step in the right direction.

Since Fran was here with our Subaru, we loaded up fellow hikers Don and Rachel and drove down into, about 15 miles. Despite our attempt to locate a Mexican restaurant that we’ seen a sign for, no luck. But luck was with us, as instead we landed at Steve’s AYCE Buffet. There we shamelessly chowed down on southern fried chicken, ham, creamed corn, corn bread, mashed potatoes and so, so, so much more. Peach cobbler with fresh whipped and side of vanilla ice cream for dessert. It was nuts and we enjoyed every delicious bite. 7:30 p.m. now and hostel is abuzz with happy hikers….

March 21, 2015: Gooch Mountain Shelter to Woods Hole Shelter, 12.3 miles, 9:10a.m.to 6:00p.m.

It was a big day for trail magic! Caught the wave just right, it being the weekend and all.

First trail magic of the day was at Gooch Gap, just 1.5 miles into the day. Church group had a big setup with a healthy breakfast spread. Nice, but being pretty full, I opted for a cold beer for my second breakfast, compliments of a hiker trash party still camped nearby.

Sweaty ups and downs followed all the way out to Woody Gap. Lovely day with nice views thru he the treetops.

Woody Gap was jam-packed with weekend hiker cars. Found a cooler of Powerade on ice on the south side of the gap. Across the highway to the north, however, I found a bunch of 2014 thru-hikers camped just off the trail. They were cooking hot dogs and hamburgers and there were chips, cookies and cold sodas. And beer. George the host and his friendly group were mostly from Florida.

“Eat as much as you want,” came the call.

Can do folks, can do.

And I proceeded to chow down a dog and two burgers, chips and soda, and a fine can of PBR. Yeah! The other beer choice was also a favorite: Yuengling. Couldn’t go wrong, but dared not have two.

With only 4 miles in the can and a belly full of food I started off into the afternoon sun. More than 8 miles of tough climbing lay ahead. First it was up to Preachers Rock and nice views east, then further up to top of Big Cedar Mtn. 72F, brilliant sun, quite warm. Pathway was terrific, hiking fantastic.

Wound around and up and downs knobs and ridges all afternoon. Lost myself in the miles of solo walking. Passed few people. Loved the day, seventh heaven for this hiker.

Blood Mountain – at 4400 feet it’s the highest point on the AT in Georgia – looked a long way off to the northeast. Chugged away feeling great, rambling along, cruising on the easy stretches and roughing it up the steeps.

Drank lots of water to day, two liters from my hydration pack and much more from spring along the trail. Cold, clear water coming right out of the ground since the start of the trail as been awesome. Nectar from the gods, this tasty water from the earth. So good that I haven’t yet treated any. No need. But there will be ahead for sure.

Called it a day at Woods Hole Shelter, nearly a half-mile off the trail. Sits on a wooded knoll, a wild and lonely spot with views up to Blood Mountain. Ridge runner for NPS or GATC, forgot which, plus six other hikers are here. Just four of us in the shelter. Gonna be a good night and a quiet one. Very welcome.

Nearly 9pm now and time to head for bed. Orange glow in the southern sky is Metro Atlanta. Cool but not cold here at 3750 feet. Up to Blood Mountain and down to Neels Gap in the morning. First resupply awaits there, and Fran will be there as well for a final goodbye before she drives back to Maine.

The hike is going as well or better than could be expected. I’ll take it. AT trail living rocks.