Condors soaring higher as the thermals warm in the early morning air at Colca Canyon; brown, white or multi-colored baby alpacas awaiting their next bottled milk snack on the lawn of Las Casitas de Colca; modern day Peruvian highlanders in international orange jumpsuits and helmets utilizing the ancient Inca rope pull/log roller technique to move heavy road equipment across an arched bridge over a rushing river in Machu Picchu township — all of these are part of the broad Peruvian experience.
 
I just returned a few weeks ago from a remarkable and truly mind-changing visit to Peru.  This modest country in terms of ’self-promotion’ contains the widest possible options for visitors to learn and grow as individuals.  A culture deeply rooted in the land itself expresses its history through the daily living of the people, in the historical remains of many cultures dating back several thousand years, in the constant growth of the Andes by millimeters a year and in the booming economy holding firm even in current times.
 
A few highlights from this recent trip:
 
Sunday service held in the church next to San Francisco Monastery in Lima — Quechua sung by the voices of devout Catholics who stem from the highland people of Peru and still express their long-lived history in the costumes they wear at festive occasions which occur almost every week.  Cathedrals and churches are altar-adorned and made of wood carved from trees imported from Central America — deep mahogany wood twisting in Baroque curves reminiscent of Bernini’s marble columns in St Peters - Rome.  Here in Peru the complex altars are draped in gold not only melted from early Inca gold artifacts looted after the conquest but embellished by silver art created from silver extracted from the mines of this land. 
 
The Cathedral of Lima holds the remains of the Spanish conqueror, Pizzaro.  Huge and richly decorated it shows the enormous wealth of the country and its deeply Catholic heritage brought by the Spanish.   Nearby the Aliaga family whose ancestor traveled with Pizzaro has been living in Peru since the 16th century and now hosts elegant dinners in their private 20-bedroom home located just a few steps from the Plaza.  This building modestly presents itself to the street behind substantial wooden doors.  Dinner is delicious and eaten after canapés and cocktails served in the spacious and historical lounge.  Everything is presented in rooms which have lasted centuries overlooking internal shrub- and tree-planted courtyards.  One feels transported back centuries and gets the feel of “once upon a time.”
 
I was able to see the annual Potato Festival celebrated in the main Plaza des Armes of Lima.  The plaza was filled by bands and dancers from all the regions of the country giving expression to this most essential vegetable sustenance here in Peru.  The Inca even invented a way of freezing and drying potatoes to make them last for several years — dessicated but retaining all the nutrients and vitamins needed for survival. 
 
Nature along the coast has beaches festooned with flocks of pink flamingoes whilst red-headed turkey vultures hunch on the nature park signage in a relaxed pose awaiting their next potential meal.   The dry desert of the Peruvian coast reminds one of the Skeleton Coast of Namibia with dunes, windswept barren rock-strewn surfaces but here in Peru, the Andes sends water down long rivers and streams allowing pencil-thin lines of liquid nourishment to nurture smallholdings of vegetables, wheat and other grains.  The long descent from the mountains ends in outlets to the sea rich in wildlife and feeding occasional flocks of goats tended by peasants living a precarious and transient existence along the coastal road.  Just beyond these islands of plant richness, the dessicated desert takes over again.
 
The mountains are a world unto themselves — high passes at 16,200 feet descend into valleys like Colca with an almost Grand Canyon-like eroded riverine depression splitting the high fields of corn, quinoa and wheat.  Huge and even active volcanoes such as the three famous ones near Aerquipa dominate the area which is full of deep mines and grasslands of the high Alto Plano.   Aerquipa produces fine weavings in the small factories which handle the products of the alpaca, vicunya or other camelids who inhabit those grassy plains.  
 
Machu Picchu is mentioned here not last by intent but because it’s impressive site at 8,000 feet is a fitting summation of all that the history of Peru can present.  Dominated even at this elevation by higher peaks and sited dramatically above a deep lush valley, one can even hike the famed Inca Trail to the Sun Gate where the Inca astromoners could determine by the sun breaking through the 3 openings along this ridge of mountain, the solstices and equinoxes every year.  The Inca Trail was the “information highway” of it’s day connecting Cusco with Machu Picchu.  Along it’s 27 miles of up and down at high elevations, teams of runners going at top pace ran from outpost to outpost using the still undeciphered “quipus” (threaded counters knotted in a yet unknown language telling of crop quantities, of citizen censuses, of armed and administered parts of the empire … all needed to run the Inca government during its time in ascendency) as informational sources for their rulers.
 
There is so so much more but this short set of paragraphs should give a sense of this remarkable country and lead you to want to learn more and to visit there as well.

Looking for a quick little get away that won’t break the bank?  Portland, Oregon is it. There is so much to do and see in Portland the whole family will come away satisfied. 

If the peaceful tranquility of a garden setting is what appeals to you, there are two choice and both close by.  Visit the International Rose Test Garden in Washington Park where you can see 7,000 rose bushes and spectacular views of the city.  Next to the International Rose Test Garden is the Japanese Garden.  It has been proclaimed as one of the most authentic Japanese gardens outside of Japan and has an unsurpassed view of Mt. Hood.

Museums are a plenty with oldest museum in the Northwest, the Portland Art Museum, which is internationally renowned for exciting art experiences.  Located in the heart of downtown’s cultural district, the Museum’s campus includes an outdoor sculpture court and historical interiors. Tour the world and travel through history in magnificent permanent collection galleries, six stories of modern art and special exhibitions.  Each Sunday features activities for families.  In the World Forest Center Discovery Museum you can see the forest from a bird’s-eye view or take a wet-free raft ride in Class IV rapids. Climb underneath the forest to see the life below, or try your smoke jumping skills! Round out your adventure with video journeys to Siberia, China, South Africa, and Brazil.  If you are the scientific type , one of the nation’s leading science museums, Oregon Museum of Science and Industry is 219,000 square feet of brain-powered fun! Five enormous halls bring science to life with hundreds of interactive exhibits and displays. You can experience an earthquake, take part in live lab demonstrations, see a movie in the OMNIMAX Dome Theater, explore the universe in a world-class planetarium and even tour a real submarine!

No town big or small is complete without activities for kids and of course Portland has that.  Trek through the tropics amid the sounds of birds, monkeys and other creatures. You’re not in West Africa, you’re in Portland at the Oregon Zoo’s African Rain Forest exhibit. After you’ve survived the steamy tropics, dry off in the savanna, where giraffes, rhinos and hippos graze. From the crest of the Cascade Mountains to the coastal waters of Peru, travel around the world in an afternoon.  Want to cool down?  Enjoy indoor ice skating at the Lloyd Center Ice Rink, located in Oregon’s largest mall. The ice rink is a fun place to skate and build memories.  If you prefer a good old fashion Amusement Park, Oak Amusement Park has rides, go-karts, roller skating, picnic grounds, an historic dance pavilion and waterfront views making this jewel of an amusement park only minutes from downtown Portland.  Safe, wholesome, affordable family fun is always on the menu along with fries, hamburgers, corn dogs, cotton candy and more. Families can come for a whole day of fun without breaking the bank.

This is just a small sampling of what Portland has to offer.  

So if you are looking to get there, just think planes trains or automobiles. One can either take an hour and a half flight from Oakland, a scenic 8 hour drive from San Francisco, or a ride on the Amtrak Starlight Coast.

Greg doesn’t have your average desk job. He’s a movie producer and he’s here filming Gulliver’s Travels with Jack Black, Emily Blunt and very friendly Jason Segel. So I took the bus to Oxford, then another bus to Woodstock and visited him on the set at Blenheim Palace.

I had been there once before with my sister in the 70s when we were both in college, and it was great to go back. Oxford is a fantasy - a university town from the 13th century, as is Blenheim - a storybook palace in the spectacular English countryside. Before I connected to Woodstock I enjoyed visiting the churches, the libraries and the school buildings of Oxford, where some of Harry Potter was filmed. The sophisticated nature of the tourists in this town makes for a very different tourist experience. The first time I went I was 21 and actually was able to handle Michelangelo prints - by myself - with plastic gloves they gave me. It was for many years a highlight of my life. And this time the Ashmolean Museum was sadly closed for renovations, but I could still sense a trust that the locals have in the visitor as I roamed the historic schools that make up Oxford. No guards. No rules. It’s close to a perfect world.

It took me a while to find Greg. First I found the sword department. There are soldiers in this movie. Pretty cool, but I decided not to try and borrow one. Then I saw a princess up on top of the palace. But Greg was out to lunch. I mean, where do you go in Woodstock?

As I was checking out the scene of massive amounts of production equipment, I heard his voice from behind talking to a colleague. Walked right by me, but fortunately, silver hair and all (both of us) he recognized me once I called his name. We spent the better part of the afternoon catching up in between takes (and more takes) and whatever else went on. Jason (playing Horatio) filled me in on the plot while Greg was busy. From what I could tell, it looks pretty hysterical. Look for it in June of 2010.

Visit http://www.joshfriedmantravel.com/  for my complete set of photos from this trip and other posts.

07 May 2009

2025 hrs
1st course is a soup with chunks of crayfish. The base is fois gras. It’s served in a porcelain egg, the top of which is removed as it is served and placed on the plate. All is color coordinated. Subtle earth tones. It’s fantastic. Who ever heard of a broth of foie gras?

Delicate crayfish veloute, royal of fois gras

2039 hrs
2nd course over. Need to research what celeriac is. Scallops were sliced very thin and tasty with black truffle. Could have passed on this course which is too bad because it’s only in the last couple of years I’ve started to enjoy scallops. So far best I had was last year in Cabo.

Invited to visit the Kitchen. This is really becoming fun now.

Rose of marinated scallops. Lamb’s lettuce and celeriac. Black truffle sauce.

2042 hrs
3rd course. The colors are orange, white, browns and the halogen light from above glitters in this amazing sauce. It’s frankly difficult to figure out exactly what’s here as the menu is vague and the waiters’ English could be a little clearer. Mushrooms are amazing but there are only two.

My Alain Ducasse champagne is refilled. Brut. 50% chard. 50% Pinot. Made by Lanson.

One of the waiters takes a swig of red wine before going back to his customer. That’s the way I’d do the job.

Restaurant is getting livelier as a group of men arrived. It’s a small place so the noise is noticeable, but certainly fine.

Roasted Chicken and Lobster, sweetbread, creamy juice.

2057 hrs
Halibut et al. The citrus sauce is fantastic. The fish is a small chunk, served warm, over a brothy citrus sauce. To the side, tomatoes (no, they’re actually kumquats sliced thin! Or mandarini cinesi*) and swiss chard. But discrete . The fish is served over an aubergine puree.

Bread dish is pain du pi (sp? - as in hair my Sardegnan waiter explained) We’re speaking Italian now and it’s easier.*

Braised halibut, citrus and swiss chards, eggplant condiment.

2114 hrs
How does one find potatoes this small? Maybe ¾ of an inch in diameter. But very flavorful. This mini rack of lamb is again, full of flavor. The meats falls off the bone. Mini vegis are cute. Like the other courses so far, the plate is bathed in sauce, this one from the lamb.

A very hot young couple just sat down next to me, but they’re pretty private. She’s wearing leggings with a tight top that just covers her bum and he’s wearing tight white jeans and a tighter black t-shirt. I’m assuming it’s not a business dinner.

Roasted rack and saddle of lamb, spring vegetables.

2130 hrs
Just met the chef, Jocelyn Herland (a guy). The kitchen is shiny and beautiful, and you cannot see it from the dining room. But he told me, with a nice French accent, that it’s important to emulate the environment in the dining room for his cooking staff.

2148 hrs
I asked for a small break before the cheese course. I’ll pass on a detailed analysis as I’m not a connoisseur nor huge fan of cheese courses. Even though I lived in Europe during college, I never got into the cheese course thing. That part of me (the chocolate cake, ice cream thing) is pure American [I will say there were 4 cheeses, each with its own condiment in an adjacent dish - Tuscan goat (from Ducasse’s Tuscan hotel/restaurant (call me for details and reservations), camembert, (unknown), and blue cheese with a tasty pear condiment. Also, beside light crackers, the bread course served was a slightly sweet hazelnut. About the same size as biscotti.

2215 hrs
Should I have a chocolate praline or Ducasse’s signature Baba. I think my new Sardegnan friend is bringing me both. Vediamo. Nope, he brought me a pre-dessert. Hope I’m not getting him in trouble by posting this. (oh god, he brought me both too!). And there’s an ice cream which tastes like a combination of vanilla and chili pepper. I had a choice of 4 rums to pour over the baba and I chose a Dominican one, inspired by Cuban invention. The bottle and mystique won me over. The gold leaf on the chocolate ganache has melted. It was the tiniest, and coolest, little flake. When you bite into the little cake you feel the layers and hear them crunch in the mousse. And there is nocciola (hazelnut) in there somewhere. I can sense it.

Praline-chocolate biscuit, milk/salt flower ice cream
Baba like in Monte-Carlo

2303 hrs
Finishing my coffee. Good night.

Visit http://www.joshfriedmantravel.com/  for my complete set of photos from this trip and other posts.

Onboard meals and beverage service was of very good quality; the entertainment options are so numerous that you could in theory be occupied for the whole 10 hour flight and need to take 5 more journeys to see all the offerings.  Comfy “sleep suits” in various sizes are provided to make your flat bed, duvet-covered and mattress- padded horizontal overnight completely comfortable.  Angled single seats face forward and inward on the side aisles downstairs and on the upper deck.  Downstairs on the main deck there are a number of side-by-side seats with a drop-wall for couples or friends traveling together in the center section.  Unusually, the seat flips over and is converted instantly into the flat bed.  The bed side of the seat has its own seatbelt for placing around you as you sleep.

Maybourne Hotels London:

All three of the Maybourne Hotels are known by their reputations and long history.  The Connaught - Claridges - The Berkeley.  Each hotel occupies a unique niche within this family of hotels. 

Claridges was the “adjunct” hotel to Buckingham Palace as the place VIPs, diplomats, and guests of the Queen were discretely and elegantly housed if they were not staying at the Palace itself.   She is renewed and refreshed, maintaining her long history.  The restaurants, bars and dining facilities are updated but still maintain their traditionally elegant energies.  Staff wear morning suits or dark outfits to discretely serve the top flight guests who stay here.  We were able to visit a number of suites and rooms redone by Lord Linley using his design talents with furniture using fine woods to create classic decor done to a new standard.   And as the new standard in England is “nonsmoking”, the former “Humidor” has recently been transformed into an intimate cocktail bar where a select number of guests can fill its private spaces while enjoying the very top quality liquors or liquers as they wish. 

We had a very special treat at Claridges.   Below the ground floor, in the Claridge kitchens, we were greeted by The Chef who asked his younger colleague to guide us in the art of creating appetizers.   With hilarity and good humor, the chefs guided us amateurs in creating a selection of sushi rolls, pipetted horseradish-cream smoked salmon cones as well as getting to taste fois-gras nibbles and other specialities.  A complexity of kitchen work-stations work together to produce just about everything from scratch for the discerning palates of those enjoying the fine cuisine at the hotel..

The Connaught is completing its major rennovations with the addition of new suites in a co-joined building to the original Grande Dame hotel.  Skirting the façade on the south and east sides of the hotel is the marvelous ‘conservatory restaurant’, Espelette, serving many of chef Hélène Darroze’s lighter menus.  The redone lobby “lounge” is done in subtle colors and welcomes both hotel guests and visitors from Mayfair to stop for tea in the afternoon or drinks pre-theatre or pre-dinner.  Relaxed and inviting, it is the perfect place after a day spent in London.  Soon to open its doors more widely to the neighborhood is the very trendy, happening Connaught Bar, done in cool blues and aluminum highlights and featuring new cocktails and inventive nibbles.  If a more quiet yet intimate drinking area is desired, the Coburg Bar and its dynamic staff will ensure a place for excellent conversation and laughter.  A new grand apartment is in the making.  Today you can enjoy the marvelously distinct “Prince’s Suite” where all the wood carvings and décor are hand-crafted as part of support for the wood-carving artists in Afghanistan.  This unique room is a special treat for the most discriminating guest.

The Berkeley just off Belgravia and Knightsbridge across from Hyde Park is an elegant retreat.  She is the newest of the buildings in the group but is home to Boxwood Café, entered from the street on the side of the hotel, Marcus Wareing’s amazing 2* Michelin restaurant, the bustling and very happening Blue Bar for late night drinking and discussions, and the charming Caramel Room where lunch, afternoon tea and breakfast are served with style and panache.   As London attracts people from all over the world, the staff at the Berkeley reflects this multi-national flavor, ensuring all guests will have someone who specially is attuned to their wishes.   The Spa and the rooftop pool are particularly appreciated here.  You can splash about overlooking Hyde Park and retreat into the Spa for a wide variety of treatments.   And the bathrooms are universally spacious with excellent Asprey Purple Rain amenities.   Showers with either rainheads, massage or full spray facilities, deep tubs for soaking and marble marble everywhere.   Service is attentive throughout the hotel and decor in the rooms is subtle and generally done in muted tones.  Several large suites have balconies and one of the top suites has a large ’solarium’ leading out to an expansive balcony which overlooks the Belgravia neighborhood.

All in all, the trip to London gave me an opportunity to once again re-connect with some old hotel friends and learn for the first time the pleasures of Virgin Atlantic.  You should “check out” the Upper Class lounge in London …. you almost don’t want to come home because it is such a great place to hang out!!!

I stayed at the Casanova Hotel, which put me in the mood for love from day one. Day two, three and beyond did nothing but improve my mood. The hotel is centrally located within walking distance of the Plaza Catalunia. Barcelona is a heaven for the lovers of great food at reasonable prices. This city has one of my favorite restaurants in the entire world, Los Caracoles. It’s reputation was started by serving heaping platefuls of snails. I remember eating them there 50 years ago,costing 20 cents for a full plate. It costs a lot more now and the Los Caracoles menu has expanded to include exquisite continental food of every description.

For lovers of bike riding, Barcelona is one of the greatest cities to visit on two wheels. A program of hop-on-hop-off bicycles is a recent innovation. The city is blanketed with bike racks filled with bikes for the taking. It’s called bike sharing. For the cost of what you’d pay to ride a bus, you can get an electronic card that entitles you to help yourself to any available bike at the computerized bike stands. The bright red almost new bikes are kept in top condition for maneuvering the mostly flat streets.

For those who would just as soon not pedal around the city, Barcelona’s metro subway system is easy to negotiate, even if you don’t speak Spanish.  This city has become the playground for the British, so English is widely spoken. For those who would rather take a taxi, you can get to almost any point in the central district for about $6.

Lovers of architecture can find examples scattered throughout the city. Look for the charming structures of Barcelona’s prince of building design, Antoni Gaudi. He was the flag bearer of the late 9th-century Modernista movement, so beloved that he was made a saint. His 10 structures, with their sense of tremendous exuberance and playfulness,is led by Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia Church. Gaudi’s work easily is one of the city’s top tourist attractions. Seeing this church of dripping concrete is a must.

This is a great time to visit. Barcelona is the financial capital of Spain but its economy is in the doldrums. It is experiencing the same crisis that happened in America. Housing was greatly overbuilt and the bubble burst. Dried-up credit has the Catalans wincing. Unemployment is running in the double digits. And Americans with dollars see welcome signs everywhere in the form of bargains.

Those who love the distinctive music and dance of the Catalans, don’t fail to enjoy the free show and concert put on every Sunday in front of Barcelona’s Cathedral. The locals come out in their Sunday finery to hold hands in a circle as they wait for the mainly flute and woodwind music to begin. What follows is a joy to watch.

Those who love people watching, the pedestrian mall is a primo attraction. Las Ramblas extends from the Plaza Catalunia for a half mile to the Mediterranean water’s edge. The wide street of Las Ramblas is lined with restaurants, flower stalls and shops. What has to be the biggest collection of Mimes, some in the most elaborate and even outlandish outfits, are scattered all along Las Ramblas. It’s a photo opportunity that is unique.

Barcelona is the gateway to the Mediterranean and Norwegian Cruise line has established it as its home port. Other cruise lines also operate from the city’s new cruise terminal, making the city a wonderful starting and ending point for a Mediterranean cruise. For design and convenience, this cruise terminal ranks among the world’s best.

It’s easy to fall in love with this town. It captures the flavor of Spain more so than any of the country’s other cities. And, it’s a great location to enjoy following a cruise on the Mediterranean.

Ed Arnow writes travel columns for the Contra Costa Times, the Oakland Tribune and three other San Francisco East Bay daily newspapers. He can be reached at Brentwoodbuzz@aol.com

My recent experience on my flight to Brisbane and return from Sydney has left me with so much excitement.  VAustralia is a definitely a new dimension in air travel.  The in-flight service is refreshing, fun and offers the friendliness, graciousness and hospitality that is so much of the Australian Culture from the in-flight staff.  They always have a smile and time for a chat; making each passenger feel so welcome and special.  The comfort of the seats and roominess in either International Business, Premium Economy or Economy Class is so impressive.  In the International Business class section the seats make into completely flat beds.  I loved the nice soft pajamas that were given out to wear and keep in the Business class section..  Both International Business and Premium Economy class have their own bar areas  You do not feel like you are traveling in a cattle car in any class of service.  Especially nice too is the mood lightening and the special effects of stars in ceiling after the evening meal service.  Also the recessed mood lighting on the sides of the cabins are so nice and soft.  I must mention, too, the great food.  Both dinner and breakfast were quite good and the food tasted so fresh.  There is also a great wine selection.  The fully touch tone monitors are state of the art and offers the latest in-flight entertainment.
 
VAustralia is definitely doing some very clever and witty implements onboard from the clever animated safety procedure cartoon that really draws ones attention to the coffee cups in both Premium Economy and International Business Class that rest on a saucer and when you pick up your cup the saucer reads; “I am your flying saucer”.  How fun to have a chuckle to see how Branson has made flying fun.  All I can say is that VAustralia is true value for money and puts the fun back into flying,

Getting to the Land of OZ can be fun when you fly VAustralia, A New Style in Air Travel.

VILLA MICHELANGELO

Their restaurant “La Loggia” offers the finest regional cuisine. I great place from which to  visit the beautiful Palladian Villas. Also nearby is Verona and Lago di Garda. There is  an 18 hole golf course nearby, Golf Club Colli Berici.

A secluded country retreat and a perfect place to stay after visiting the busy and crowded city of Venice.

VILLA MARGHERITA and VILLA FRANCESCHI, both owned by the Dal Corso family. Located in Mira with easy access to Venice. Mira also has wonderful shoe outlets!!

VILLA MARGHERITA – 17th Century. 19 roomsOn the banks of the Brenta River built as a residence for a noble family. More of a Country Inn than a Villa. Very personalized service. One could easily stay here and take daytrips into Venice. 

VILLA FRANCESCHI  has 22 rooms in two buildings, the Barchessa and the Pardonale, surrounded by a large park. Very large bedrooms beautifully decorated with antique furniture. The  diningroom  tables were set with Murano drinking glasses and there was also a special display of exquisite Murano pieces.

VILLA DEL QUAR a Renaissance villa 12 miles north of Verona, 28 rooms.  A Relais & Chateaux property with a 2 star Michelin restaurant surrounded by vineyards and gardens.  This is the Valpolicella wine region and there was a beautiful wine cellar for tastings and purchases of the local wines. On one side of the villa there is a  large swimming pool, with a gazebo bar, for the hot summer days.

PALAZZO  CA’ SAGREDO in Venice, located on the Grand Canal between the Rialto Bridge and Ca’ D’oro . 42 roomsThis is a National Monument which was closed for 50 years and has just undergone a 7 year renovation. No expense was spared in this renovation. A gigantic staircase with ceiling frescos from 1734 leads up to the greeting area. Everything is on a large scale and this was,to me, the most impressive of the Palazzos I visited in Venice. And the Rialto area is fun and trendy. 

JDB offers a Baer Esccape credit of $15.00 for each room night at each of the following properties between now and April 30, 2009.Villa Michelangelo, Villa del Quar, Villa Margherita and Villa Franceschi.

Definitely, check this place out. www.perfumersapprentice.com   

I’ve visited Rio several times over the last few years and always felt welcome and safe.  I won’t deny there are dangers - as with any big city - but if you use good common sense you can enjoy a safe trip, drinking in the incredible sights, sounds and delicacies of Rio.  My best travel tip is to pack light - leave behind any flashy clothes and jewelry - just bring the basics:  a pair of shorts, a tank top and good pair walking shoes -  and you’re ready to go!

For first time visitors I recommend staying in Ipanema. This is a safe, upscale neighborhood with many wonderful options for hotels and restaurants. My favorite is a Golden Tulip boutique hotel, THE IPANEMA PLAZA (http://www.ipanemaplaza.com.br/en-us/default.asp) , which caters mostly to European and South American tourists. The rooms are comfortable and immaculate and the staff are friendly and eager to help with an impressive ability to bounce effortlessly between 4 or 5 languages.  There is also a daily breakfast-buffet included with the cost of the room, which consists of three tables of hot and cold food - scrambled eggs, ham, bacon, sausages, ‘pão de quejo’ (a delicious local cheese-puff snack), various cheeses, meats, rolls, cereals, yogurt, and an array of fresh tropical fruit.

One of the best features about the Ipanema Plaza is the location.  Situated on Rua Farme de Amoedo, you are centrally located  - just one block from Ipanema Beach, and one block from GAROTA DE IPANEMA the corner Restaurant-Bar where the famous song ‘The Girl from Ipanema’ was written by Antonio Carlos Jobim and Vinicius de Moraes.  There is great shopping within two blocks on Visconde de Pirajá where you will find the latest fashions in Rio, with great buys for shoes, dresses, accessories, summer wear and
much more. Just three blocks away there is also a wonderful artisan open market known as the “Hippie Fair”, held Sundays 12 -5p in Praça General Osario.

My most recent trip was with a friend who owns a catering business, Diana’s Creative Catering of Malibu. Together we set out to learn about the culinary delights of Rio.  Her goal was to experience traditional Brazilian food, so our first stop was for Feijoada, the national dish of Brazil.  Feijoada is a thick black bean stew with pork, beef or sausage, served in clay pots. Typical side dishes are rice, manioc, or fried bananas - and there is always bowl of chili peppers close by for those truly serious about *spicy* food.  A traditional Brazilian drink to accompany is the national drink of Brazil - the Caipirinha - made of sugarcane alcohol, sugar and lime.  Since Feijoada can take hours, even days to prepare, some restaurants may only offer the dish on certain days of the week, however you can find Feijoada daily at the charming CASA DA FEIJOADA (Rua Prudente de Moraes 10) - just past the Praça General Osario.

If you want to experience an elegant buffet with authentic Brazilian dishes, don’t miss the Saturday afternoon brunch at the CAESAR PARK HOTEL’S GALANI RESTAURANT, on the 23rd floor of the Caesar Park Hotel.  You can enjoy the stunning birdseye views of Ipanema Beach with a buffet that will rival any offered by the finest hotels around the world. Executive Chef, Helbert Moura offers the best of Brazil’s traditional dishes with his personal touch combining the unique flavors of Brazil with an impressive first-class presentation.

For a really special dinner try one of Rio’s top restaurants, LE PRÉ CATALÁN (http://www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-1988-sofitel-rio-de-janeiro/restaurant.shtml) , located in the 5 Star SOFITEL in Copacabana. This restaurant is super chic - and you can experience the incredible views of Copacabana Beach while enjoying the ultra modern interior and creations of Chef Roland Villard.  Mr. Villard offers an exquisite combination of Brazil’s ingredients in a French-style preparation.  I recommend their ‘Tasting Menu Amazonia’ which offers 8 small courses with Amazonian fruits, vegetables and fish, and Amazonian fruit granité to cleanse the palate in between. This is a meal you will never forget.  Chef Villard personally comes to every table to explain the preparation of each dish (brush up on your French for this!)  Each meal is served with incomparable beauty and paired with wines from around the world.  A ‘do not miss’ experience, and a very special meal. I highly recommend this for any ‘foodies’ visiting Rio.

Our next stop was APRAZÍVEL (http://www.aprazivel.com.br/)  located high atop a winding hill in Rio’s historic Santa Teresa district. The setting is tropical with open air breezes and non-stop vistas over downtown Rio and Guanabara Bay.  Aprazível serves contemporary Brazilian cuisine with delicious signature dishes, such as their Peixe Tropical, an Amazonian fish served in orange sauce with coconut rice and baked bananas. Aprazível is a wonderful stop if you want to incorporate a visit to the charming
hilltop district of Santa Teresa with a unique dining experience overlooking a panorama of Rio.

Another wonderful restaurant district for meandering is Rio’s very vogue Lebon neighborhood. Many great restaurants are situated on Rua Dias Ferreira, where you can enjoy reading menus posted for viewing on the sidewalk until you find one that strikes your fancy.  Any restaurant with sidewalk seating or a good window seat will give a perfect vantage point to watch the ‘beautiful people’ of Rio pass by.  Make note that some of Lebon’s more ‘in’ restaurants are extremely popular, such as the famous SUSHI
LEBLON, which is frequented by Brazil’s and Hollywood’s stars. (Tom and Katie Cruise were there the week we were in Rio) - For these ‘hot spots’ reservations are recommended.  

Rio has a near endless selection of food and restaurants to accommodate any budget or preference.  Glance through the options when you arrive by purchasing a copy of VEJA RIO (http://vejabrasil.abril.com.br/rio-de-janeiro) , a local magazine listing Rio’s restaurants. Also, ask the locals for suggestions! Cariocas (the name for Rio’s locals) are delighted to help and may know of a good restaurant that just opened.  

Regardless of whether the music, culture or sights initially brought you to Rio, the meals will certainly be a part of the memories you take home!

(Stay tuned for my next article in honor of Carnival on the *Sights and Sounds of Rio!)*