CatCluez

Protect your domestic cat from predators in urban settings

2013-05-16T21:27:00.001-07:00

This week in Santa Cruz, CA - a Coastal California town near where I live - a wild mountain lion was roaming around in the downtown area near a local river. The mountain lion got trapped in the concrete-sided aquaduct, was tranquilized and safely returned to the wild, as it should be.

Of course you would be concerned about the safety of your own domestic cats, if a mountain lion sauntered into your own neighborhood. One of the local witnesses said her cats came inside on their own when the mountain lion was in the area. Smart cats, but if you have outside-only cats, they could be threatened by a wild predator like Puma concolor.

Baxter inspects the enclosure

A possible solution to a threat like this is a secure outdoor enclosure for your outdoor cats which can protect them and still afford them the outdoor experience. Materials for such a structure can be obtained at local hardware stores and is fairly inexpensive. Commercial products specifically designed to protect small pets from larger predators in urban and some rural areas are available, but can be much more costly.

Our cats are indoor-outdoor cats. We have designated an outdoor area for them which is both cat-proof and predator-proof. It protects them from local predators, it prevents them getting into scuffles with neighbor cats and the local scavenger population (skunks, raccoons, etc), protects them from street accidents, and gives them a place to go "be cats" as they run around, eat grass and play. The main protective structure is components from a portable dog kennel which we purchased online. The entire "cage" is modular so parts can be reconfigured for different arrangements. It is very sturdy, long-lasting and not bad-looking.

Reclaimed tree-cutting refuse
makes a great jungle gym for our 3 cats

We have equipped the enclosure with cat-friendly items like high shelves, and a large "scratch tree" which is made from stumps and large branches. Our "cat run" is very effective and practical. Nothing is permanently installed or constructed so it can be moved, reconfigured, enlarged, etc. We have employed a number of other "cat fence-in" products in the area to keep our cats inside the area and keep other cats and small critters out, but people can come and go as needed.

I highly recommend folks with cats (and other small pets) to consider this kind of protective solution if you at all concerned about large predators in your area. Of course you will gain all the other benefits as well, and your pet(s) will be happy and safe.

As always, I am happy to answer questions and would certainly enjoy the opportunity to help you make your household safer for your cat.

Cat "hacks" other cat's food box and seals treats

2013-03-17T14:00:00.001-07:00

Even though we have set up individualized feeding stations for each of our three cats in order to keep their diets separate, occasionally, they discover and invent ways to circumvent our efforts. Fortunately, this is a rare occurrence.

Baxter has his own food box, just like the other two cats in our household. Baxter has observed Brodie exiting his own food box and has discovered an opportunity to enter the box at a special time when the kitty door is still open as Brodie passes through it. Baxter simply enters the kitty door before it closes behind Brodie, thereby "hacking" his way into the "forbidden zone" of Brodie's food box.

"Smart" is a relative term, however. Despite the fact that Baxter is determined to, and successful at getting into Brodie's food box, it just so happens that, in this case, the food in Brodie's box is exactly the same as the food in Baxter's box. Baxter thinks the food in Brodie's box is somehow better than his own food. The only difference is the location, and the fact that the food in Brodie's box is Brodie's food, and not Baxter's food. In our household, Baxter thinks he "owns" everything so this is his way of trying to convince us that he now owns Brodie's food.

Individualized feeding stations works very well 99% of the time. Once in a while we have a "glitch" like this one. Still it is a great way to isolate diets of cats in multiple-cat households.

Your Cat's Diet: "Going Raw" may significantly improve health and happiness

2013-03-11T14:39:00.000-07:00

This is the third and final installment of a 3-part series of posts about the benefits of a raw food diet for your cat. Here are links to installments #1 and #2.
Addressing concerns about raw pet food and converting your own cat to a healthier diet

If you are concerned about things like bacteria and disease, fear not. Commercially-made raw food is carefully prepared and naturally treated for harmful organisms. It does not contain the "guts" of animals - where the bulk of harmful parasites are found (stomach, intestines, etc.). These items are removed as part of the processing. Have you ever noticed your cat leaving you a "present" of mouse guts? That's why. Your cat knows what to do, avoiding the "bad" parts. The "good" organs like the heart and liver are typically included in raw food products, and these are parts your cat will readily consume from live prey anyway.

Some of the bacteria we hear about in the news is already present in the digestive flora of your cat, and your cat's digestive system is fairly short, and very well equipped for the consumption and digestion of "live" food. If you're still concerned, make sure your raw food is frozen solid for at least three days, that will also help ensure purity. Raw cat food is as safe as any regulated pet food, and doesn't contain harmful chemicals or substances your cat cannot digest.

This 12 minute video may shed some light on your concerns as well:

Converting your cat to a raw food diet Of course, the best way to get your cat accustomed to a raw food diet is to start her off young, so she doesn't become used to kibbles and mainstream cat food. Converting a "spoiled" cat to raw food can be a small challenge. It can take a few days, or a few weeks to convert a cat to a raw food diet. Some cats take to it right away, others are a little more stubborn. Cats love routine so getting them from one routine to another can be challenging, but once they get used to the new routine, they usually just settle in. Persistence is key, you may need to be the Alpha Cat in your household for a while.

Here are some things you can try if your finicky feline does not immediately take to raw food

Try to get samples of various raw cat foods to try on your cat. Better pet stores may have samples of some of the more popular raw food products.
If canned food already part of diet, conversion may be easier. You can try switching to 100% canned food, then to raw.
If your cat is already on a mostly kibble diet, upgrade to better kibble (more protein, less grains/vegetables)
If your cat just refuses the raw food altogether, don’t force him to not eat. Liver failure can occur within days, sometimes in as little as 12 hours.
Try mixing raw and canned food
Put crushed kibble on top of the raw food
Try ground up dried chicken liver on top of raw food. Freeze-dried chicken liver can be found at better pet supply stores. Make sure it's 100% just chicken liver and nothing else.
Put a small amount - teaspoon or so - of raw food next to a bowl of regular food, this can help your cat associate the food she is used to with the raw food.
You can try raw chicken necks (also available at better pet supply stores). Do not cook them.
Spread an all-meat baby food on the raw food
You can try 100% dried fish sprinkled on raw food
No or low sodium chicken broth or tuna juice - slightly warmed, poured over the raw food sometimes helps

Cat owners who are successful in switching their feline companions to a raw food diet are often amazed by their cat's health improvements. Few ever go back to commercial cat food, and all are helping to improve the long-term health and happiness of cats everywhere.

If you simply cannot afford a 100% raw food diet for your cat(s)

What ever you do, eliminate the dry food (kibble) if at all possible. Replace it with high-quality, high-protein canned cat food. Include some raw food if you can as a supplement or as treats. High quality doesn't mean "Fancy Feast" either. Most high-quality cat foods are found in smaller independent pet supply stores. Some larger commercial retailers stock some of the better products. You may have never heard of some of these brands as they are not mass marketed. The "mass" market is not interested in high-quality cat food. Cheap cat food is what the mass market wants. Cheap means lots of additives, fillers, chemicals and other things your cat was never meant to consume, some of which can actually harm your cat and possibly shorten her lifespan. If you feed treats, choose only pure meat, or cat-specific raw treats. You can dice some non-ground meat from your grocer and cook/boil it lightly (but completely), or you can choose from many excellent freeze-dried treat products. If you purchase pure-meat treat products, it doesn't matter if the packaging says "for dogs" or "for cats." As long as it is pure meat (actual pieces of meat), you can feed it to your cat, but only feed pure meat treats to her as an occasional treat. Your cat's diet needs to be balanced and cat-specific.

The following list will help you find high quality alternatives to a 100% raw food diet. Note your cat does not need all those vegetables added to many canned foods, and should not consume grains, potatoes or other carbohydrates either. Make sure the product you choose contains at least 10% "crude protein" (more is better), no grain (rice/wheat), and little if any vegetable ingredients. Be sure to check with your veterinarian about any dietary changes to your cat's routine. I also strongly recommend against purchasing any pet food products imported from or processed in China that you intend on feeding to your cat in large quantities (as her primary food source). All of my recommendations below (with one exception) are either of domestic origin, or other reliable, healthy sources. You can find these products in most independent pet supply stores. The proprietors of the independent stores are an excellent source for information about better pet food products. and in many cases they can be found on the web for better prices, especially if you buy in larger quantities.

The links below will allow you to purchase the items directly from Amazon, but you can also shop around the web for better pricing/shipping if you like.

Canned Cat Food:

Nature's Logic varieties, typically at least 40% crude protein.
Weruva varieties, typically at least 40% crude protein.
Old Mother Hubbard "Wellness Core" varieties, typically at least 10% crude protein.

Note: The above recommendations are for products from manufactures who have addressed recent concerns over BPA in pet-food cans.

Pre-packaged Treats:

PureBites treats. Other varieties are available.
Wildside Alaskan Salmon - (this one is such a huge hit with our three cats, we continue using it, even though it is processed and packaged in China)
Bravo Bonus Bites treats. Several varieties are available.

Others:

Stella & Chewy's - They offer raw, freeze-dried food which can be given as primary diet or as treats. You can also purchase small sample packages.

Always consult with your veterinarian before attempting any changes to your cat's diet.

Good Luck!

Many thanks to Vanessa Hill of The Raw Connection in Carmel, California. Her knowledge, expertise and personal experience with raw pet food has been helpful in the research of this article, and invaluable to the well-being of our own three cats. Here are links to series installments #1 and #2.

Your Cat's Diet: "Going Raw" may significantly improve health and happiness

2013-03-10T20:23:00.000-07:00

This is the second installment of a 3-part series of posts about the benefits of a raw food diet for your cat. Here are links to installments #1 and #3.

My own experience with a raw food diet for out cats

In the last several years, an increasing number of cat owners have begun reaping the rewards of raw-food diets. Their cats are healthier and happier, making fewer visits to the vet, having increased energy, and probably living longer, happier lives.

My experience with raw pet food begins with the story of our own cat, Brodie, who is now 10 and behaves like a kitten. My wife Nona, related this story to a friend who had asked about raw food diets for her cats:

Brodie, our 9-year-old cat had been losing weight for a long time and was lethargic. He had been successfully treated for pancreatitis and a bladder infection but still couldn't gain weight and was still lethargic so I start researching online and I discovered a book written by a veterinarian, Elizabeth M. Hodgkins, titled "Your Cat: Simple New Secrets to a Longer, Stronger Life."

Dr. Hodgkins formerly worked for Hills (Science Diet manufacturer) and she talks about kibble as being a bad diet for cats for several reasons. She says it is basically made of cereal and has flavoring sprayed on the outside of it to make it palatable to cats. Since cats evolved as obligate carnivores they don't do well on grains. Also kibbles don't contain the moisture that cats need - drinking water doesn't provide them with enough liquid because they were originally desert animals and don't get as thirsty as they should and therefore they need to eat food that contains moisture.

In her book, she talks about cats treated in her practice and talks about how she treats her patients for various diet-related problems. She feeds her own cats a raw diet and she encourages her clients to do the same, but if they can't handle that, she suggests a high-quality canned food diet.

After getting Brodie on raw food exclusively, he gained 11 ounces in one month and had been maintaining that weight. He hardly sheds any more and he plays like a kitten. The change in his health has been remarkable. The other two younger cats are doing very well, and we are confident they will be healthier long term since we started them on this diet early.

Dr. Hodgkins points out that cats haven't changed much from the wild, desert creatures they were before they were domesticated and they need a diet close to that of their ancestors. They need more protein than most canned cat foods contain and they need a grain-free diet.

Dr. Hodgkins makes a compelling case and Brodie seems to prove her right.

A raw food diet for your cat consists of uncooked, minimally processed protein-rich natural meat products specifically formulated for cats. There are many to choose from. I have provided a list below. Of course, you shouldn't simply feed your cat ground-turkey from the corner grocery store. Meat intended for consumption by people is expected to be cooked thoroughly. It probably contains a fair amount of bacteria, and it doesn't contain the dietary supplements your cat needs. Raw pet food is specifically formulated with the intention of being consumed uncooked so there are extra precautions in place to ensure quality and purity.

List of raw food product manufacturers

Always consult with your veterinarian before attempting any changes to your cat's diet.

The Next installment will provide information on how to convert your cat to a raw food diet.

Here is a link to installment #1.

Your Cat's Diet: "Going Raw" may significantly improve health and happiness

2013-03-09T18:49:00.000-08:00

This is the first of a 3-part series of posts about the benefits of a raw food diet for your cat. Here are links to part #2 and #3.

Why a raw food diet may be the best thing for your cat since prepackaged catnip.

A lot of science suggests we humans should include more raw food in our diets, like fresh-picked fruit and uncooked vegetables. Mass-produced foods most of us eat, and feed to our pets is actually not that healthy. Cooking and/or processing removes valuable nutrients and introduces less healthy elements. Many "diet" foods contain things like "high fructose corn syrup" which is a substitute for cane sugar and other naturally-occurring sweeteners. Our bodies don't know what to do with many of these substances so they don't do us any good, or they can cause us harm and create environments friendly to inflammation and disease. Your body knows what do do with cane sugar and other foods which actually occur in nature.

It's the same way in the pet food industry, only worse, since the pet food industry is not regulated nearly as much. In many pet foods, unhealthy additives and fillers are often included to boost volume, enhance flavor, improve shelf-life, ensure package integrity, and reduce costs. A diet consisting of mostly commercial cat food is a lot like a diet of breakfast cereal, candy bars and soda-pop. Your cat may love that premium-priced "life-stage" cat food, but it may actually be more effective at improving your cat's susceptibility to disease and shortening your cat's life. "Life-stage" and other special varieties of cat food products are just marketing to get you to buy a particular product. A life-long diet of kibbles will dehydrate your cat's kidneys over time, causing early kidney failure, very common in traditionally-fed cats.

In the wild, and in your back yard, cats don't eat kibbles with wheat and cranberries or salmon beef liver paté. Cats are predators, technically "obligate carnivores". They are designed to chase, catch, kill and eat rodents, birds, small reptiles, bugs and insects. It's what they do. Your veterinarian will tell you that small bones from fresh prey clean and strengthen teeth, and that those nasty critters your little hunter brings in the house contain just about all the nutrients she needs.

Feeding your cat a raw food diet can do a lot of good for your cat, and you, including easier cleanup and less waste for the litter box, including reduction in odor, and possibly reducing your veterinary bill. Raw cat food contains live enzymes necessary for good health. It takes significantly less time to digest, and many cat owners report significant outward improvements like coat health, mood improvements complete elimination or significant reduction of diseases like diabetes, kidney failure, skin problems and crystals in urine. At Bright Haven Wholistic Animal Retreat in Sebastopol, California, animals are fed a 100% raw-food diet and they routinely have cats who live 20 years and longer.

Raw food is available frozen, or in freeze-dried forms. It typically costs more by the package than mainstream canned and dry food, but when you look at the actual numbers - compare the actual protein and nutritional substance, not to mention the possibility of lower vet bills, the cost may actually be less than you think and who can put a price on a happier, healthier cat?

Some useful resources on cat health and raw-food diets:

Always consult with your veterinarian before attempting any changes to your cat's diet.

Here are links to installments #2 and #3 of this series.

Photographing your cat: A 5-minute essentials guide

2013-03-09T18:40:00.001-08:00

In just 5 minutes, learn some cool techniques for getting great shots of your feline friend(s).

What is needed:

A camera
A cat
Some light

If you are comfortable fiddling with your camera's settings and spending a little more time to get your shot, you have even more flexibility for great pictures.

Your Subject

Get close.
Tell a story.
Capture candid moments that do not look staged.
Take pictures at your subject’s eye-level.
Include meaningful elements in your shot and show kitty enjoying himself.

Lighting

Good lighting is the most important part of getting great pictures.

Use natural lighting as often as possible.
Strong lighting from one side of your subject generally provides the most pleasing effect.
Morning and afternoon light are generally the best times to make natural-light photographs outside.
Avoid using your flash unless there are bright elements behind your subject.
Avoid red-eye by turning your flash off or try to prevent your subjects from looking directly at the camera. Many cats will be startled by some camera's pre-flash systems, it is best to avoid startling your cat in the first place by just not using the flash.

Focus

Make sure kitty's eyes are sharp. If your camera does not allow you to control focus, make sure kitty's face is near the center of the frame, hold the shutter button down half-way, and recompose your shot if you like, without changing your distance from kitty.
Brace yourself and/or the camera against anything solid and unmoving whenever possible.
Press the shutter button slowly and deliberately.

Exposure

Avoid bright highlights and scenes with very bright and very dark areas.

Composition

There are rules. Some have been used by great artists for many years, some rules are meant to be broken, some just make sense.

Don't put kitty's face right in the middle of the shot. Put him off to the side a little, Imagine your scene split up in to nine squares. Where the lines intersect are good places for kitty's face/eyes. If your camera has Automatic Focus and/or a single AF point: Allow the camera to establish focus on kitty's eyes before taking your picture, activate the AF-lock (holding the shutter-release button down half-way is one way to do this), and recompose the shot without changing focus.

Be aware of foreground, middle ground and background elements. Avoid elements that interfere with your intended subject, like that wayward house-plant vine sticking down behind kitty's head.

Avoid strong linear elements touching a corner of the frame.

Above all, have fun!

Hardware Cloth Keeps the Squirrels out of your Suet Feeder

2013-03-02T11:26:00.002-08:00

Squirrels are cute and everything, but can be a real nuisance. Especially when you're trying to feed just the birds. We had invested in a weight-sensitive seed feeder, and a cage for other seed feeders. We had been hanging a suet block feeder out at one of the ends of the bird feeder structure's arms. Recently we discovered a squirrel had found it.

So we had a number of options. We could increase the height of the post, and install a post baffle, but because the deck railing was 36" high, the baffle would have to be positioned at least 4-feet above that, making it very difficult for us to actually reach the feeders to refill them.

After doing a little research I decided to try 1/2" hardware cloth. I bought a yard of 24" wide hardware cloth (mesh) from the local hardware store. I cut and bent it to fit inside the suet feeder. It needed to be a tight fit so the suet blocks could still be inserted easily.

After about 20 minutes of cutting and bending, I finished. On testing, the squirrel tried several times but gave up after a few days. The mesh is large enough so the woodpeckers and other birds can dine to their heart's content.

Now entertaining our cats go a little less expensive!

DIY: Food Boxes help manage unique dietary needs of several cats

2013-02-02T01:25:00.000-08:00

Private feeding stations with cardboard boxes and electronic cat doors to manage up to five cats' different dietary needs.

If you have several cats in your household, you probably know how difficult it can be to keep each cat away from another cat's food if one or more of your cats is on a prescription diet from your veterinarian, or if you have an overweight cat who needs weight-management formula.

Make your own Food Boxes to isolate up to five cats' food access to ensure they can each meet their individual dietary requirements.

New Outdoor Kitty Shelves

2012-09-09T15:51:00.002-07:00

Making it easier for cats to come and go.

Original kitty shelves

After about two years of weathering and cats jumping on them, it was time to replace our original aging cat step shelves to our external kitty door. The originals were composed of basic 1/2" plywood covered with plastic grass to provide good grip for claws and help clean messy paws. One of our cats is older and has hip problems so the shelves were spaced accordingly to make it easier for him to negotiate.

The old shelves were starting to get ratty-looking, coming loose and would make loud "clunk" noises when the cats would jump onto them as the screws were beginning to come loose. We also have one cat who likes to nap on one shelf, making it difficult for the older cat to get past the napping cat. So there were a number of reasons to replace the old shelves. Cats love new things as well, so it would give them all a little adventure as they discover the new shelves.

New kitty shelves.

The new shelves are wider and offer more options for access. They are also made of plain wood (pine) shelving as opposed to plywood. I stained and waterproofed them, so they should last well. The black metal brackets I had used for the old shelves were still in good shape, so I repurposed those and installed them below the new shelves with galvanized roofing screws. This provided better stability and safety. Plus it looked better, too. These shelves should be a bit more durable.

The small shelf up by the cat door remains unchanged. It is designed to easily slip in and out of the window frame for cleaning.

Climbing Tree observation platform

I also used a length of the new shelving in a different place on the exterior wall. We have a cat climbing tree made from stumps and large tree branches in the cat run area so I mounted the other shelf on the wall above the climbing tree. One of our cats loves high places so he will surely enjoy the new higher vantage point.

I will be installing additional lengths of shelving on the exterior wall in the cat run soon to provide even more places for them to nap and play. In the mean time, they will have more to do and better access for a while.

After all the new shelves were up, I puttied the screw holes left over from the old shelves. I'll touch up the wall paint after the putty has cured.

These kinds of projects are fairly simple and great for improving the life and mood of your cat.

REVIEW: Pet Mate Cat Mate(R) Elite Selective Electronic Cat Flap

2011-11-25T11:59:00.000-08:00

I can't tell you how many different pet doors I've gone through. I still have a box full of them. I have used many different types from very basic, to advanced electronic versions which recognize only your own cat. One electronic pet door stands out from the rest as a great product which just works, 100% of the time.

The Cat Mat(R) Elite Selective Electronic Cat Flap is one of those products that just works. It is quite sophisticated, but well-made and practical. It uses RFID (Radio Frequency Identification) technology to only allow pets wearing either of the two included special collar tags to come and go through the flap. It will support up to seven different pets wearing the special tags.

The collar tags are non-magnetic and do not use any batteries like some other products. The unit includes an integrated weather strip, and hardware for installation in doors up to 2" thick. You can also order a wall-install liner separately, which fits in the wall, between the interior and exterior sections of the unit.

Programming requires a little concentration, but the included printed instruction booklet is very good. There is also a separate booklet for installation. The unit uses 4 "AA" batteries and is very good on battery life. It can be set for "In and Out", where pets wearing the collars can come and go freely, "In Only", so pets can only come in and not go back out, "Out Only", so pets can go out and not come in, and "Locked" which prevents any pets from passing through the door.

How it works:
Your cat pushes on the clear hard plastic flap, the unit scans for a recognized collar tag, and opens the flap. It operates the same in both directions. Unless a cat is wearing one of the RFID tags, it cannot pass through the flap.

Of course, as with any new thing in your cat's life, she may require a little training. It is not difficult if you are consistent and persistent. The manual includes a section on training your cat to use the product. My cats were already used to pet doors so they took to it fairly quickly.

Baxter demonstrates the Elite Selective Electronic Cat Flap

I have purchased two of these units since 2008. Both are still working perfectly. The product is available in white or brown, and there is a more advanced model available which adds some additional electronic features.

What I like about the Pet Mate Cat Mate(R) Elite Selective Electronic Cat Flap

Easy to install and program.
Sips battery juice.
Collar tags don't use batteries.
Comes with everything you need to install and set up (except batteries).
It just works

What could be improved-upon with Pet Mate Cat Mate(R) Elite Selective Electronic Cat Flap

The collar tags are a little large for a cat (1.25" diameter).
The "click" sound of the flap when it opens may be a little loud for some. You might think twice about installing the product near where people sleep.
The unit cannot be set to allow a cat to pass through if the batteries die. So, if the unit's batteries are dead when your cat tries to use the door, it will not operate, so kitty could get stuck outside.

Manufacturer's website

DIY: Keep your feline "escape artist" from climbing your wooden fence

2011-09-09T17:41:00.000-07:00

Cats have serious claws. They can climb just about any porous surface - to a point. As long as your cat can't jump and land on the top of the fence without using her claws on the way up, this solution should work for you.

Xappa, the Escape Artist

In my case, I had already installed some cat netting on a wooden fence, but my "escape artist" was able to make a cat-size hole through the netting in the corner of the yard where she could get good leverage. It took her weeks of working the netting until she was able to squeeze through.

To remedy the situation, I obtained two 24" x 36" sheets of clear lexan, the kind of material used for picture framing, and plastic windows. I chose clear because it was available locally and would not be very visible. I got some exterior wood screws and some "fender washers" from the hardware store and put the two sheets up where the two fences met. I aligned one 24" side against the top of the fence, and 36" side along inside corner where the two fence lines met. I carefully drilled some holes and secured the sheets with 2 to 3 screws along each edge. I also made sure the edges of the plastic sheets lined up well in the middle because I didn't want any "rough spots" that could be used as a claw-hold.


Two plastic sheets up in the corner, one screw to go...

Fender washer and screw

When it was all done, it was hardly visible and the escape artist had been foiled. She was unable to dig her claws into the smooth hard surfaces, and since she couldn't get up into the netting without using the fence to climb on, the solution worked and I could relax knowing she was safely contained once more.

REVIEW: "Ideal Hefty Pet Side Sliding Window Insert"

2011-09-03T19:23:00.000-07:00

For a long time I was looking for a good-looking locking pet door that would work with a horizontal sliding window. I had seen the kind that installs in full-sized sliding doors, but hadn't ever seen one designed specifically for horizontally-sliding windows, which are similar to sliding glass doors, but smaller.

I discovered this item while I was shopping for an electronic pet door for another purpose. This product is a made-to-measure insert which lets you easily install a pet door in the window frame in a horizontal sliding window. I already had built a plywood structure for a smaller cat door, but it was ugly and drafty. This product seemed like a much better solution. The cat door was larger than the one I was using, so our older cat would be able to use it more easily, it provided a two-way locking mechanism so the cats could be locked in or out, it looked very functional attractive. It was available in two colors, I chose white and placed my order.

It arrived in perfect condition. The built-in window pane is glass and the construction is aluminum, very well-made. It also includes some weather stripping, a security lock and good instructions.

I removed the old home-made plywood insert and installed the new insert in the window frame. I had to use weather stripping on both sides of the insert, so the weather stripping that came with the product was about 1/2 of what I needed. Fortunately I had some lying around the house.

To secure the sliding window up against the insert and to prevent being able to open the window from the outside, a block-type lock is provided which requires that you drill a hole in your window frame. I opted to cut a piece of wood to drop-in between the left side of the window frame and the right side of the window slider so I wouldn't need to drill into my window frame.

We've been using this product for about two weeks now and it is working perfectly. It looks good, is secure, and weather-tight, and lets more light in becuase of the glass pane above the pet door section. I highly recommend this product to anyone wanting to control their cats in and out access through a horizontal sliding-window and maintain an attractive look.

I purchased this item from the following website:
http://www.moorepet-petdoors.com/

REVIEW: Four Commercial Cat Barrier and Fence/Enclosure Products

2011-08-24T22:19:00.000-07:00

Updated!

See new product resource added at the end of this post.

You want to keep your cat safe when she is outside. There are many risks; other cats, predators, disease, traffic and other dangers. - and if your cat likes to "roam", you know what I mean. Black cats are especially vulnerable around Halloween.

The purpose of a cat barrier/cat fence is to give your cat access to the outdoors while keeping her safe. Most barriers are also designed to keep neighbor cats and other animals out. A cat barrier can significantly reduce many of the greatest risks to your cat; give you peace of mind, and help keep your vet bills down. An effective cat barrier may also prevent the need for a completely enclosed cat run area which can get expensive and can make your house look like a zoo. Your "inside" cat may even be able to safely enjoy the outdoors. This can do wonders for making her happier and healthier.

There are a number of different types of cat barrier and fence products which let you turn your cat's natural environment - your yard, into a cat-safe outdoor play area without cramping your sense of decor. Each product takes slightly different approaches to the protection of your favorite feline. They are all similar in that they use variations of plastic netting and a series of hardware brackets and/or posts. Some of these cat fence products are reasonably unobtrusive and do not adversely affect the look of your home or yard. You can greatly improve your cat's protection, and still not feel like you're living in Fort Knox.

All of these companies sell their own complete cat barrier products, solutions and accessories. Several companies sell components separately, so you don't have to purchase complete products to get the components you need for an effective protection solution. All of these products can be assembled and set up with basic tools and none use electricity or electronic deterrent methods.

The products and components covered in this article are as follows:

Affordable Cat Fence

This is a "fence-topper" product which uses 36" wide plastic mesh which can be attached to an existing chain-link, masonry, or wooden fence with large washers every 4-6 feet. The mesh is hung from one-piece metal stanchions attached to the fence at regular intervals.

What I like about the Affordable Cat Fence product

Metal brackets or "stanchions" are only one piece, easy to install and they position the top of the plastic netting higher up.
Plastic mesh netting is not very visible

What could be improved-upon with the Affordable Cat Fence product

Plastic netting itself is thin and tears easily.
Plastic netting is attached with large washers at regular intervals. In order to keep a determined and strong cat from getting under the edge of the netting, the netting has to be stretched tight and washers have to be spaced only inches apart which greatly increases the installation time and makes it more time-consuming and harder to make necessary repairs.
Appearance of the completed installation is not as visually attractive as components from other companies.
After several years in the sun, the netting expands, droops, and becomes brittle and weak.

Cat Fence-In

Cat Fence-In "fence topper" installed

This product is also a "fence-topper". It uses 36" wide thin plastic netting with a strong plastic band woven into one edge. The band is secured along an existing masonry or wooden fence, and the non-banded side of the netting is hung from articulated rod-brackets attached to the fence at regular intervals. Cat-Fence-In also offers tree guards, special hardware for using their product with gates and other products for different situations.

What I like about the Cat Fence-In product

Plastic netting attaches to the fence with a thick plastic band which is very effective at keeping cats and other critters from getting under it.
Plastic netting is not very visible
Metal brackes are adjustable and attractive

What could be improved-upon with the Cat-Fence-In product

Netting itself is thin and tears easily.
Plastic band can actually cut the netting if it is "worked" by a determined cat long enough.
After several years in the sun, the netting expands, droops, and becomes brittle and weak.
The two-piece brackets can loosen up over time and cause the vertical part to drop, lowering the edge of the netting and opening a possible escape route. Occasional inspection is important.

Purr...fect Fence
This product is available in two configurations; a free-standing post-based system, and a "fence-topper" for existing wooden or chain-link fences. Posts are driven into the ground and topped with spring-loaded articulated "arches". A tough plastic mesh is attached with zip-ties. In the free-standing product, the mesh hangs down to the ground and a strong metal wire mesh "chew guard" is installed along the bottom to prevent cats and critters from getting under it.

What I like about the Purr...fect Fence product

Very secure
Can be adapted to just about any yard or outdoor space
The company provides an instructional video to help you set up and install the product

What could be improved-upon with the Purr...fect Fence product

Expensive (as compared to other solutions)
Time consuming and tedious to set up.
Requires ground soft enough to drive in 18" x 1-1/2" pole stakes and 12" wire stakes.
Not very attractive and is very visible

Portable dog kennels from Options Plus

10' x 15' Options Plus dog kennel installed

This company offers modular metal kennel components which can be fitted together in a wide variety configurations. You might not think of using dog kennel components for a cat enclosure, but I've noticed many kennel products specifically marketed as "cat enclosures" are too small and not modular enough for different sizes and configurations. Options Plus offers several kennel sizes, styles and finishes, roofs, panels and accessories. The kennels are constructed from 5' x 6' panels connected with simple metal brackets.

What I like about the dog kennel products from Options Plus

Very secure and sturdy
Sets up fairly easily

What could be improved-upon with the dog kennel products from Options Plus

Components are large and cumbersome
Panels shorter than 5' wide would be nice for more flexible configurations

Recommendations
All these companies have great customer service. They are also good at helping you determine what you need for your particular situation. If I had to pick one, the most practical seems to be the Cat-Fence-In product, however, my experience has shown the best solution seems to be combining components of several products for a customized solution that fits your needs.

There are many other enclosure products available in many shapes, sizes and configurations for both indoor and outdoor applications. This review only covers the four products I have actually used in the process of providing safe, outdoor space for our 3 cats.

Update...

I am adding the following website resource as a very promising option for cat containment. Although I have no personal experience with their products, the modular "Cat's Den" system looks very durable and practical.

http://habitathaven.com/

Conciencious pest control without needless killing or cruelty

2011-08-07T21:19:00.003-07:00

Some wild animals that live around humans are considered pests. Around our area, we have raccoons, skunks, opossums and some rodents. Most of these critters are attracted by food and/or shelter. It is unfortunate that many people who are dealing with these critters, believe the only way to get rid of them is to kill them. This usually involves poison, shooting, or worse, and there is no guarantee more will not return. It is my opinion that these solutions subject animals to needless pain and suffering. Many larger "pest" animals also help reduce populations of harmful insects like small rodents, grubs, spiders, termites, and critters harmful to gardens.

Here are some suggestions which come from the most common issues I hear from people regarding their pest problems. In my opinion, the best solution is to make your home undesirable to "pests" - avoid providing access to the things pests want.

Most people I have spoken to who have a raccoon or skunk problem for example, reveal that they feed their own pets in areas which are not protected from wild critters. In addition, a common practice is to put food in the pet's bowl, and leave it alone. If the pet doesn't consume the entire serving, it sits around. The smell of pet food is extremely irresistible to many wild critters and they can smell it a mile away, especially if it has been sitting for a while. If the feeding area is outside or in an area accessible, to critters, it will attract the riff-raff.

Pets should be fed, then the excess food should be removed. This not only reduces the time the food is out, but it is also healthier for pets. Most veterinarians would probably agree, "free-feeding" your pet is not as healthy as controlling mealtime yourself.

Many people feed their pets in an indoor area, but also have a basic pet door which any critter can pass through. An automated pet door which allows only the family pet (s) to come and go will ensure only "authorized" pets have access to the food, and will keep all others out. Wild critters might smell it, but once they realize they can't get to it, they will eventually move on. Scavengers are opportunists.

In addition to good pet feeding practices, pest-proofing your home is a good idea. Close or screen-off gaps, holes and cracks where critters can get in and under. Of course you need to be sure to not trap any critters anywhere. In our case, we had a family of skunks living under part of our deck. We did some research and discovered they like to have "escape routes" near their den. We screened off their "back door", and after verifying they were no longer using their den, we closed off the rest of the area. The skunks are gone, and we sleep with a clear conscience, knowing we "evicted" our four-footed squatters without causing any pain and suffering. In addition, your own pets will be safer from potential injuries and disease. Makes Sense!

Laundry Basket Becomes a Cat "Battle Tank"

2011-07-10T19:04:00.000-07:00

Here's a fun thing to try. If you have one of those soft-sided folding laundry baskets, try inverting on the floor some day and see if your kitty will take an interest. Put a treat under it if you like. Our cat Baxter loves to dive under things (bags, boxes, papers), so this was a natural for him.

For Baxter, laundry day, is ambush day. He loves the dual purpose material. He can see through it, but still feel like he's hiding. It's hilarious to watch him lie in wait until an unsuspecting friend walks by. Then it's all over for his "victim".

DIY: Automated bamboo birdbath spout for under $10; good for birds, fun for cats

2011-05-08T19:42:00.000-07:00

Our cats love to watch the birds. The more activities we can create for birds outside our windows, the more entertained our cats are for those long lazy days of spring and summer. The birds have plenty of water and it's all fun to watch. If you already have a drip irrigation system, this little project will add a nice look and great functionality to your yard or garden. The materials for one of these spout poles was less than $10. I made two of these spout poles in a few hours.

If you don't have a drip-irrigation system, you will need a drip-irrigation timer to fit an outdoor faucet or "hose bibb", some 1/4" drip-irrigation hose, a drip irrigation "emitter" or "bubbler" and a few fittings to put it all together. Emitters are available in several flow rates. I used a 1/2 gallon per hour emitter. Make sure you follow the manufacturers directions for assembling and using the drip irrigation components and be aware of any local ordinances regarding drip irrigation systems and back-flow safety requirements.

The body of the spout pole in my case is a 2"diameter bamboo "lodge-pole." Any size will do as long as the hollow inside at the top of your spout is at least 1-1/4" across. Another smaller length of bamboo - about 1/2" - will serve as the spout itself. The smaller piece should not have any cracks.

Cut your bamboo lodge pole to length. You will probably want to bury it at least 9" in the ground, perhaps more for added stability. Make sure you leave at least 2" of open hollow above the top joint, and make sure your pole is tall enough - once buried in the ground - for the output end of the spout to clear the top of your birdbath.

Prep your spout
Cut your spout as long as you want, but make sure you will be able to reach all the joints with a drill bit so you can drill out the joints to allow the water to flow through.

Cut one end of the spout at a fairly steep angle to form an oval-shaped "catch basin" to catch the water from the drip-irrigation emitter. The "output" end of the spout can be any shape you like.

Prep your spout pole
Drill a hole at a slight downward angle just above the top joint. Make sure you drill a hole that is no larger than the "input" end of your spout. You may need to sand or file the hole a bit larger to get your spout to fit snugly.

Drill a 1/4" hole in the pole on the opposite side of the spout high enough so the emitter will be positioned above the catch basin end of the spout. Drill another 1/4" hole directly below the first hole, just above the joint. This will be the drain hole. You don't want your pole to fill with water in the rain!

Insert your drip irrigation components
Thread one end of 1/4" drip-irrigation hose into the top 1/4" hole. Push it in and work it towards the top of the pole. Pull enough through so you can attach the emitter. Attach the emitter, and pull the hose back down into the pole till the emitter snaps tight against the back of the hollow.

Insert your spout
Work the spout into the body of the pole. The "catch basin" you created by cutting the input end of the spout at a steep angle should fit nicely below the output end of the emitter. Make sure the spout is snug.

Install your pole, and attach the drip-irrigation lines. Turn on the water and enjoy!

Keep your older kitty toasty and comfortable with a heated pet pad

2011-04-17T00:03:00.000-07:00

Our older cat Brodie has hip problems. He can still climb pretty well. He loves the lap, but the lap is not always available for nap-time. We have a multi-level cat condo with enough room for each of our three cats to have his own elevated spot. To give Brodie a warm soft spot to curl up, we put a medium sized heated pet pad in his space on the condo platform and topped it with several layers of folded towels. Some of the heated pads are too warm for our kitties and most of the pads don't have temperature controls. Having a couple layers of towels add cushy softness and help disapate the heat. He is quite comfortable with this arrangement.

It is important to distinguish between heated pads and heated beds with sides. The pads we use and what I am recommending here are flat or padded, allow maximum flexibility, rarely get dirty if you keep them covered, and most have a removable cover anyway so it can be washed if necessary.

We have three of these heated pet pads and they are all fairly low wattage (about the same as a light bulb), so you can keep them on 24/7 during the cold season. If you are concerned about power usage or safety, you can use an inexpensive appliance timer to turn it on and off automatically. Just make sure the appliance timer is electrically rated for the pet bed.

In warmer months, Brodie prefers a "cool" bed, so in the Spring, we remove the heated pet bed and just give him layers of towels.

DIY: Give kitty a view of the world outside from an enclosed yard

2011-03-26T19:28:00.000-07:00

Finished kitty "peephole"

We equip our yards with secure areas to protect our cats from other cats, predators and dangers from the street. This frequently includes installing fence-top barriers which prevent our cats from getting on top of the fence. Cats love to be up high so they can survey their domain. Since we do not allow our cats to get up high enough within the fenced area to see very far, they cannot see the "outside world"at ground level very well, except through the cracks between the fence boards which must be frustrating for them.

Brodie sees something interesting

In an effort to help our cats be able to see more of the outside world - with both eyes at the same time - watch other cats, critters and birds at our bird feeders, I created several little windows in the fence at about kitty eye-height. The holes are large enough so the cats can see outside with both eyes, but small enough so they can't actually fit through the hole.

The view

To make the peepholes, I drew a template on of a piece of cardboard, cut it out and marked the fence board. I drilled a pilot hole. Then I used a jigsaw to cut out the shape. I created two of these in different places so several cats could use them at the same time. We owned the property and fence, and the holes I created look out into our own "unprotected" yard where our cats never go, so there were no issues with neighbors, etc. Alternatively, we could have removed the fence board and put one in place with a peephole, then replaced the original later on to "repair" the hole.

Our cats loved their new views on the world and used the peepholes all the time. We had a couple chickens for a while and even they used them. Of course, if your cat can come and go from the yard freely, these kitty peepholes do not make much sense, but they sure are cute.

VIDEO: Cat vs. Beetle: WIN

2011-03-18T19:13:00.000-07:00

Our cat Binky makes lunch of a Mt. Hermon June Beetle. Originally posted on YouTube in July 2010. Running time: about a minute.

VIDEO: Cat vs. Beetle: FAIL

2011-03-17T19:16:00.000-07:00

Our cat Binky is a hunter. Fortunately, he doesn't bring in "big game", only the occasional yard bug. Sometimes the bugs have other plans. Originally posted on YouTube in July 2010. Running time: about a minute.

DIY: Kitty Kafe

2011-03-16T15:07:00.000-07:00

Protected access for our cats to fresh grass and a nice view of birds and squirrels

Kitty Kafe installed

Our three cats share the back yard with our two chickens. The chickens have "cleaned up" the back yard by consuming all the nice green grass the cats love to chew on.

The front yard is not normally accessible to the cats or the chickens so there is plenty of green grass. We decided to build a protected caged-in area which could be accessed from the back yard, through a kitty door in the fence. The "Kiitty Kafe" is made from a 32" cylinder of 6" mesh 16-gauge wire wrapped with 1" chicken wire mesh, sunk into the ground and weighted down with medium-sized rocks. The access ramp is a piece of plywood surround by a shield of chicken wire mesh.

Entry way from back yard

The Kitty Kafe gives the cats access to a grassy part of the yard while protecting them from neighborhood cats and night critters. It also doubles as an observation platform where our cats love to watch all the activity around our bird feeders. Our chickens have never tried using a kitty door, so, until they do, Kitty
Kafe will be a chicken-free zone.