Jamie gets Rasta to approach her arm in order to touch the target and get a treat.

When some people think of bird training, often the first thing that comes to mind is trick training. They envision the cute routine they saw at a theme park somewhere. While it is very beneficial to a bird to experience all types of training, for the average companion bird, training generally refers to “target/touch training” (aka clicker training).

Target training is a simple process in which a bird learns that when he touches a target stick presented by a trainer, he will earn a reward. It is an example of positive reinforcement training which helps build human/bird bonds while giving us a valuable tool with which to correct behavior problems.

The term target training is self-explanatory: it is the process that allows you to target your bird to different locations without force or bloodshed. Are the wheels beginning to turn yet?

Following are some of the most common behavioral concerns we are contacted about. Each of them are easily solved with basic target training.

“I can’t get my bird back into his cage!”

“I can’t get my bird out of the cage!”

“My bird won’t go into a carrier!”

Do these sound familiar? By positioning the target in a way that causes the bird to have to go into the cage or carrier to touch the target stick or by opening the cage door and positioning the stick outside the cage, your bird will be the one making the choice to go in or out and you will no longer have to be the forceful, bad guy!

As Rasta continues to get comfortable with Jamie’s arm, the target in positioned so that Rasta makes contact with her arm.

“My bird won’t step up!”

If your bird is truly afraid of your hands, target training will not convince a bird to step up for you. The one thing that will override your bird’s desire for a treat is the concern for his safety. However, once you have established even the most basic training, you can use it to teach your bird that your hands are not something to be feared.

A few years ago, Jamie did some work with a client’s alexandrine parrot, “Rasta”, who had a fear of hands, a problem she solved completely with target training. In a series of steps which involved using the target to get him to slowly inch closer to a hand (held very still), Rasta slowly discovered that her hand meant her no harm. Once his comfort level increased, she started positioning the target in a way that prompted physical contact with her arm and then eventually, Rasta agreed to step onto her arm briefly to touch the target and earn the reward.

Targeting instigated a learning experience that taught Rasta that hands are not scary. This video demonstrates the final steps in his training: CLICK HERE

Eventually Rasta agrees to step onto Jamie’s hand because his experiences with her hand so far have been good ones.

It appears that the biggest obstacle people have with target training is getting started – or more precisely, getting their bird to get on board with the idea. A typical comment is: “I place my bird on the training perch and he flies off before we ever begin.”

Sometimes people bribe their bird to stay put with the very treats they intend to use during training and he is already filling up on the treat he was supposed to EARN. Full birds have no interest in treats – earned or otherwise and there is no longer a reason for your bird to stick around.

Many people give up at this point convinced their bird isn’t interested in training. The truth is that the bird has not yet experienced training.

This is such a common complaint that I now automatically suggest that training begin with the bird in the cage. If your bird will come to you at the side of the cage to accept a treat, you are already on your way. Being inside the cage takes flight out of the equation and his focus will on you and your activities at the side of his cage.

As long as you introduce the target stick in an acceptable way (so there is no fear of it), it is easier to get a caged bird to touch it so you can click and reward and they can start to make the connection about what training entails. Once your bird understands training and the benefits of it, he will be much more likely to remain on the perch for a session.
Our DVD series, One Day Miracles addresses these and other types of behavior problems that are solved with basic training: Click here to learn about One Day Miracles .

The tip of the week is normally a post only for our Facebook page, but someone suggested I also post this one here for reference purposes….

BEHAVIOR TIP OF THE WEEK

Without a doubt, this is the most common question we get here: “my bird loves me, hates everyone else” or “my bird loves everyone but me” or “I used to be the favorite, now my bird likes someone else better”.

If you have not yet figured this out, brace yourself, this is going to sting: your bird is self-serving. He thinks HE is the most important cog in the wheel and will do whatever is necessary promote what is in HIS best interest. He will favor whoever proves to be the most beneficial to him.

From our point of view, it appears that the affection we get from our bird is love or a show of gratitude for the great toys and yummy snacks. But the reality is that their relationship with us is all about their survival and safety. It always comes back to their needs and we either fit into their plan or we don’t.

Before you go running for the tissues with hurt feelings, consider this: you are just as self-serving. Your bird is in your house today because it was in some way beneficial to you. Either you wanted a bird because you thought it would be a fun addition to the family, or were looking for something to nurture and love, or caring for needy birds fills your cup. Whatever. In there somewhere is a benefit to you.
Magically, somewhere in the midst of all this selfishness, humans and birds build bonds with the strength of super glue. Just never forget we all have our bottom line – this will help you understand your bird’s behavior.

In almost all cases, a bird will have a favorite person and there is nothing wrong with that. It is NOT acceptable, though, when your bird rejects, or worse, attacks everyone else. Birds select long term mates in the wild and we have seen footage of small birds attacking a predatory bird in defense of its mate or nest. This instinct is what causes our birds to sometimes “defend their territory” when someone comes too close their chosen person, especially during breeding season.
But birds are also social flock animals. A flock has an unwritten agreement to protect each other. They often all play a role in teaching the young members about foraging and safety matters. Everything about a flock speaks to a bird’s feelings of safety and security.

This problem isn’t just about our feelings of rejection when we are denied a relationship by a bird. Without a flock a bird feels vulnerable. Having a bird that will not tolerate the entire family, or will not be handled by everyone, affects the emotional well-being of the bird.
Part of our job as bird owner is to make sure that our birds have a permanent home with us and to prepare them for any unthinkable future events. What will happen to your bird if you die and your bird hates everyone else in the house? How long will you be able to keep your bird if it repeatedly attacks family members?

So how to solve the problem?

Remember your bird’s bottom line, that self-serving nature. If you want to earn a place in your bird’s world, you have to show him that you, too, have value from his point of view – not just the chosen person. Training is the fastest and most effective way to demonstrate what you can bring to the table.

While you are establishing your worth, ask yourself why your bird has chosen another person? What do they have or do that you don’t? Was there an event which caused the bird to back away? What is the favorite person doing right that you can utilize? And, this a hard one, is the favorite person working against you without realizing it? Sometimes the chosen person doesn’t want to risk their status as favorite and will find reasons to keep things as they are. Almost always the person doesn’t realize they are doing this.

If you are the favorite, try to back off a bit to allow a new relationship to blossom with another family member (it’s probably best if that happens one person at a time). Sometimes your presence will hold the bird back rather than make him feel more at ease.

If your bird has switched their allegiance away from you to another person, there is a reason for it and you will have to respect this decision. This happens a lot with people who travel often or are away from home for long stretches. Try to understand and sympathize with your bird’s reasons for moving on to someone who feels more reliable. The bird’s well-being has to be the main consideration and you will be doing your bird a huge service by being magnanimous in this matter.

As always, proceed slowly and let a new relationship grow naturally and comfortably – especially since you are trying to show your bird that you have value and can be trusted as a companion.

You may never be the favorite person, but your bird should respect you enough to interact politely with you at all times.

Galah on a climbing net

People who are new to parrot keeping will agree on one thing: having a bird in the house is a challenge. There is a lot of reading you should do to understand a bird’s needs and wants, and how to keep them safe in the human environment. This is all vital information.

Here, though, are some tips that I have stumbled across during my own journey with my birds that you won’t find in the parrot care books. I wish I had known these things from the beginning…

Challenge Your Bird

It is so easy to get the idea in our heads that the perfect life for a pet bird is one that offers convenience and leisure. Nothing is further from the truth. The companion birds that do best are the ones whose humans have figured out that there is a link between their bird’s physical and emotional health.

Unfortunately, most cages are set up having toys and food bowls conveniently within a few steps, offering no encouragement for activity. However, a bird’s body is not designed to sit idly all day, nor is its mind. Arrange your bird’s cage in a way that creates the need to move and plot out ways to accomplish tasks.

Obviously foraging is an ideal solution but placing food and water bowls at opposites ends of the cage or even in difficult to reach places can get a bird up and moving during the day. Place favorite toys (or strips of paper) on the outside of the cage so your bird has to hang and reach to get them. When your bird is active, it is occupied and happy.

Your job is to keep your bird healthy both physically and emotionally. It is not to make life easy. This is the human presumption of the “good life” – it is not a good life for a bird.

Fix Problems Immediately

The minute you experience an unwanted behavior, it should be dealt with – even the small ones. Unaddressed problems only ever escalate over time and what you are experiencing today will be worse in a couple of months.

An example: whenever your bird sees your hands at rest, he will go to them and prod them until his insistence is distracting enough that you give him the neck rub he is demanding. This sounds pretty harmless, but there will be times when it is inconvenient. The prods might develop into nipping when you resist.

The cycle began when you didn’t stop his insistent behavior early on. You have taught him that you will give in to his demands if he pushes you. You can expect that lesson to rear its ugly head in many other ways as well.

Behavior is a lot like muscle memory in that default behaviors will develop in response to certain things. The longer you allow a pattern of behavior to continue, the more ingrained it becomes and the harder it is to eliminate. It isn’t easy to break a habit – so don’t let it develop.

Blue and gold macaws with tasty “ball”

Get Your Bird To Play With His Food

As I have said so many times before, getting your bird on a healthy diet is the single most important thing you will do as a parrot owner. However, converting to that diet can be a tricky business. One thing goes without saying – if your bird never goes near the food, it is guaranteed that it will never be eaten.

For a very young bird, the weaning process involves presenting adult foods to them every day for exploration. The more often you can get that beak dipped into a pureed or soft food or wrapped around a piece of carrot, the more familiar the taste and texture becomes and the more likely it is to be sampled.

This holds true with older birds as well. A game I have always played with my cockatiels is flicking a small wad of paper to them soccer-style. They chase the paper ball everywhere. One day I decided to do it with some frozen peas that had spilled on the counter. That was the day my tiels discovered yummy peas, and the day I discovered a new trick.

I have used this method of food introduction with every stubborn bird I have had since. While I don’t necessarily hurl food at all the birds, I figure out a way to bring them to the new food, since bringing the food to them is so often unsuccessful. It’s all about trickery.

I have learned over the years is that you have to be proactive and forward thinking when you are a bird owner. Try to always be a step ahead by keeping a clear picture in your mind of the bird you want yours to be five years from now.