Effective February 25, 2012, Seoul subway fares go up to 1,050 won per trip with a traffic card (교통카드) and 1,150 won with a one-time card. The price for teenagers (청소년) remains unchanged, as long as they’re using a traffic card registered for them. It’s worth noting, of course, that these are just the starting prices, and go up the further you travel.

Seoul’s bus system also goes up incrementally. Blue buses that traverse the city (간선버스) are the same price as the subway, while the green buses that connect neighborhoods (순환버스 or 지선버스) go up to 850 won with a traffic card. The red buses connecting Seoul to Gyeonggi-do (광역버스) go up to 1,850 won with a traffic card, or 1,950 won if you’re paying cash.

On a brighter note, the new and seemingly coming-out-of-nowhere ITX connects Seoul to Chuncheon with two-story trains. While the subway serviced Gyeongchun line has done this for awhile, consider this the express / luxury / sightseeing train.

The two-story trains stop at Yongsan (용산), Cheongnyangni (청량리), Pyeongnae hopyeong (평내호평), Gapyeong (가평), Namchuncheon (남춘천) and Chuncheon (춘천) stations. As a result, it goes from nearly two-hour trip (and a transfer) to a one-hour, nineteen-minute trip (during the weekdays, it’s one hour, thirteen minutes). The second-story seats are sure to be popular, and the Gyeongchun line does offer some gorgeous views. It may still be faster to take a typical subway, however, depending on where you’re going and the time of day.

Photo credit: Ian Han

The time schedule comes courtesy of Kojects, which informs the world about Korean construction projects long before mere mortals like me get to hear about it. Check out the complete time schedule (Excel file, in Korean only); for the Cliff’s Notes version, look below.

ON WEEKDAYS,  trains leave from Yongsan every hour on the hour from 6am to 10pm, and from Cheongnyangni station at 8:45am, 9:45am, 3:45pm, 5:45pm, 6:45pm, and 7:45pm. Coming back from Chuncheon,  trains start back to Seoul at 6:10am, with trains every 30-60 minutes. Five out of the twenty-two trains terminate at Cheongnyangni, while the rest continue to Yongsan. If you’re heading to Gangchun (각춘), Cheongpyeong (청평), Maseok (마석), Sareung (사릉), Toegyewon (퇴계원), or Sangbong (상봉), note the trains make a lot fewer stops along the way – these stops are only serviced infrequently at best.

ON WEEKENDS, trains leave from Yongsan every hour on the hour from 6am to 10pm, and from Cheongnyangni station at 9:45am, 10:45am, and every two hours thereafter until 10:45pm. Coming back from Chuncheon, trains start back to Seoul at 6:10am, with trains every 30-60 minutes. Ten out of the twenty-seven trains terminate at Cheongnyangni, while the rest continue to Yongsan.

The catch is the price: the Yongsan-to-Chuncheon trip costs 6,900 won – a pretty big leap from the 2,750 won the Yongsan-to-Chuncheon subway trip asks, and more than even the most expensive Seoul subway ride possible (for you trivia buffs, Sinchang to Chuncheon costs 4,450 won, requires two transfers and takes over four hours to arrive).

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Not pictured is an announcement that the Gyeongwon line will reopen from March 15th. While rarely used by foreigners, this line connects Soyosan station (northern terminus of line 1) to Sintan-ri station. Also not pictured is the 100,000 won fine that starts on March 1st for smoking on bus platforms. We’ll see how well that’s enforced, but of recent there have been quite a few banners and volunteers holding signs informing citizens of the new rule and fine.

If you’re from the Western hemisphere, you might be interested in learning more about what you’re eating. This goes double if you’re on a diet, a cleanse, or just on a strict regiment of what you put in your body.. Like elsewhere in the world, virtually all pre-packaged food sold in Korea has a nutritional label fairly similar to those found in the Western world. The terms, of course, are in Korean – which is why it’s time to learn what those terms are!

There are many terms used on one single nutritional label, but thankfully those terms are the same.

열량 (yeol-ryang) or 칼로리 (cal-lo-ri), = kcal, or calories.

탄수화물 (tan-su-hwa-mul) = carbohydrates
당류 (dang-ryu) = sugars – in the context of a nutritional label, this shows the portion of carbohydrates that sugar makes up.

단백질 (dan-baek-jil) = protein

지방 (ji-bang) = fat
포화지방 (po-hwa-ji-bang) = saturated fat
트랜스지방 (teu-raen-seu-ji-bang) = trans fat
These are the two subsets – how much of the fat above is saturated or trans fat.

콜레스테롤 (kol-le-seu-te-rol) = cholesterol

나트륨 (na-teu-ryum) = sodium

설탕 (seol-tang) = sugar

비타민 (bi-ta-min) = vitamin – add the English letter after it to say which of the alphabet-inspired vitamins you’re talking about.

유당 (yu-dang) = Lactose (note that 우유, or u-yu, is milk)
구연산 (gu-yeong-san) = Citric Acid
즙 (jeub) = juice, as is how much of that grape-flavored product is really grape juice
회 (hwe) = quantity of something
제공량 (je-gong-ryang) = serving size
총약 (chong-yak) = total number of servings
1회 제공량당 함량 (1 hwe je-gong-ryang-dang ham-ryang) = 1 serving of this food contains…

총 2회 제공랴 (chong 2 hwe je-gong-nya): two servings total.

봉지 (bong-ji): a package, for ramen or cookies or things that come in packages.

조각 (jo-gak): piece, slice, strip, etc. – as in a slice of pizza or a piece of cake.

Hi Chris,

I was very fortunate to stumble across your blog after some searching on the internet. For the past year, I have been saving up for an international exchange to Korea. I’m happy to say that I was accepted at Korea University in Seoul, and will be arriving at the end of next month.

Something I’ve been worried about pertains to food and exercise in Korea. As a Type 1 Diabetic, I stick to a very healthy diet – I eat an abundance of whole grains like quinoa, fruits, vegetables and breads without wheat in them. I also stay away from milk (I stick to Soy), sticking instead to clean dairy sources such as eggs and yogurt. To keep my blood sugars intact, I also make it a point to go to the gym almost every day – my readings have been stellar as a result.

With all this in mind, do you think that I’ll be able to find these food sources in Korea (i.e. quinoa, etc.)? Are test strips and insulin available at local drug stores? Moreover, do Koreans have the same standard for physical fitness as Westerners? By this I mean a variety of weight ranges and equipment at fitness centers, various supplements such as whey powder, etc. I know Korea University has a ‘Tiger Dome’ complex, but I haven’t been able to find any information about the fitness area…

Thanks for any help you can provide,

D.R.

Photo credit: Jill A. Brown (CC)

D.R.,

If you had asked me this question a couple months ago, I would have had no idea. My girlfriend, however, has done a great job controlling her own Type 1 diabetes while living in Korea. She writes:

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I’ll note that she’s had no problem having insulin shipped from Canada, although the last time she ended up having to pay a small import tax.

As far as weight equipment goes, Korea has an increasing number of Western-style gyms, often promoting a three-month or six-month membership for a decent price. The quality varies from gym to gym, of course, but look for the 회트네스 (hwi-teu-ne-seu, or ‘fitness’ gone Korean) and 헬스 (hel-seu, or ‘health’ gone Korean) signs as you meander your new neighborhood. You’ll also find the public gyms for some light workouts – they tend to use your own body weight to offer resistance, but are good enough if one is close enough to you.

While your diets are a bit different, check out a fellow blogger in Korea: Alien’s Day Out. He blogs about being vegan in Korea, and there’s plenty of helpful information. Some foods (e.g. quinoa) are hard to find, while others (fruits and vegetables) will be no problem at all.

Bonus vocabulary: 당뇨병 (dang-nyo-byeong) is diabetes (the disease), while 당뇨병 환자 (dang-nyo-byeong hwan-ja) describes a diabetic person. Insulin is 인슐린 (in-syul-in), and sounds almost the same in both languages.

Do you have a question about travel or life in Korea? Please do a quick search to see if your question has already been answered, then e-mail me at chrisinsouthkorea AT gmail DOT com with your specific question.

While coming to Korea is never seen as a permanent thing, it still hurts to say goodbye to new friends. Whether life presents a better opportunity in their home country or the Korean experience turns sour, the process of making friends and connections never ends.

It’s not a unique experience, of course – having friends graduate college and moving away to seek their adult life is comparable. I suppose what happens in Korea, just like in college, the scale of relationships speeds up to high gear. Talk to a stranger at the bar, and in an hour you’ve shared a few drinks and grown close to someone. Meet them at an event and share a meal afterward, and you’ve already gotten past the small talk that would otherwise dominate the conversation.

In the next couple of months, a handful of good friends and overall cool people are leaving Korea, probably forever.

To the married couple in the military, may your next posting offer you all the opportunities and none of the drama.

To the married couple heading back to California, may your next business take off even higher and greater than your first one did.

To the engaged couple I last saw drunkenly walking in Hongdae, may your lives together grow richer and sweeter with time.

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To the new arrivals, a few tips for making the most of your friendships in Korea:

• Be approachable. This sounds obvious enough, right? Head down, headphones on, and obliviously moving through the subway is about as far from approachable as it gets. Part of being approachable is being open to changing your plans to enable a conversation to continue past the polite stages.
• Get out – and not just to the bars and clubs. The bigger bookstores invariably have an English-language selection, and there are dozens of expat-run or expat-oriented groups around Korea.
• Start creating. Whatever your field of expertise, create something. It can be a book, a song, a painting, a choreographed dance, a band, or a new app – you make the call. You did major in something in college / university, right?
• Along those lines, start collaborating. Reach out to friends of friends on Facebook and put one and one together. Whether a business opportunity or a friend ends up as the result, you’ll be better off either way.
• Carry name cards, whether you have a business idea or not. It looks great, and is a tangible reminder of who you met. There are plenty of resources to make them great – my personal favorite is a free e-book from Stephen Bammel at Korea Business Central (link directly goes to PDF).
• Never stop exploring. South Korea may be a geographically small country, but there’s enough to see to keep even the most committed traveler busy for years.

THE ambassador of Angola lives in the neighborhood. So does the ambassador of Portugal. And Canada. And Sweden and Columbia, for good measure. Walking to Gilsangsa is a geography lesson as much as anything else, and a reminder that power remains concentrated in the same spaces it was decades ago. This was Daewongak, one of three restaurants in Seoul where the well-connected would pull off back-door politics amidst food and gisaeng (female courtesans or entertainers, similar to the Japanese geisha). In 1987, Kim Yeong-han, the restaurant’s owner (a former gisaeng herself) donated the land to the Venerable Beopjeong Sunim after reading his book “Non-Possession”. Apparently, he hesitated for awhile, but eventually enabled the creation of a Buddhist temple, which opened in 1997.

A main hall holds a Buddha statue, and there’s also a statue dedicated to Kim Yeong-han For donating the land. What makes this place so wonderful is the story behind the temple’s creation, and the many meditation halls to contemplate the universe in almost complete silence. You’re still in Seoul, but it sure don’t feel like it.

A statue of Kim Yeong-han herself – her ashes were scattered around the temple.

Like any Korean Buddhist temple, it has the traditional bronze bell and other instruments to wake the spirits in the morning:

The big drum, a beop-go.

The side entrance to the main hall – despite the old look, it’s only about 15 years old.

Ratings (out of 5 taeguks - How do I rate destinations?):

Ease to arrive:

Foreigner-friendly:

Convenience facilities:

Worth the visit:

Some of the barbed wire surrounding the Yongsan Garrison – definitely not something I want to mess with.

The barbershop poles don’t just mean a place offers haircuts. The classic (but unverifiable) urban legend in Korea is that the number of poles indicates how many ‘services’ they offer – one pole for a ‘just a hair cut’ place, two poles for more, er, options… This is unverified and unverifiable, of course…

Say ‘neigh’ to the horse for good luck – seen in one of Suncheon’s market areas.

Cuckoo clocks, anyone? Definitely not something you see a lot of around Korea. Also seen around Suncheon.

I’m not sure why they plant these outside in the middle of winter. Seen in Seoul.

Pie-in-the-sky planning for future building projects in Incheon. Seen at the planning center near Songdo Central Park – definitely worth a visit if you’re around the newer part of Incheon.

Folks, this is what happens when you try biking in, on, or around ice. Seen in Daejeon.

South Korea’s public art, cleverly hidden throughout the city. It’s just one pole, but it brightens up an otherwise drab part of northern Seoul.

Chris,

I don’t have much time during this trip to Korea. What’s worth seeing and what’s worth doing in Korea in a short period of time? I travel for business, so I’ll be back this way in a few months.

Hurried traveler

Thanks in part to Korea’s public transportation system, getting in and around is amazingly easy. That there’s English everywhere you go on the subway (and on most bus routes) means the toughest part is figuring out where to go.

If you have 12 hours or less in Korea:

Easily the tightest turn-around – on one level you need to be most aware of where you are and how long it takes to get back to avoid missing your flight. Take the AREX to one of western Seoul’s stations and cut down on commuting time. Getting off at either Hongik University or Digital Media City reduces your commute by several miles (and several more kilometers) while still putting you in an interesting area of Seoul to enjoy. Hongik University is known by locals for its creative arts and party scene, while the Digital Media City offers a glimpse into Korea’s high-tech future.

The Korean Film Museum within the Digital Media City offers an excellent look into Korea’s film industry, complete with free admission and English-language audio guides. Hongik University is arguably more interesting during the afternoons, when the art galleries are open and the bars are still dormant. That said, if you fancy catching a beverage with the locals around, there’ll be plenty of places to wet your whistle around Hongdae (the local name for the university).

Photo credit: seoulcitybus.com

Another option is the Seoul City Tour Bus – arguably the easiest way to see a lot of the city in a little time. Much like a one-semester World History class, there’s not enough time to spend at any one place for long. Although you have the choice of where to get off and how long to say, the limited amount of time will probably leave you wanting to come back for seconds.

You’d be forgiven if heading to the big city didn’t seem plausible with such a short time frame. With that in mind, I would also highly recommend… staying in the airport. Huh? Let the record show that Incheon International Airport has been named one of the world’s best airports for several years, and has everything from fountains to information desks to a relaxing Korean-style spa. The Qi Ranger, another expert on travel and life in Korea, has this to say in a video about the airport’s amenities. That HanaTour desk mentioned in the video? Find their guided tours online.

If you have 12-24 hours in Korea:

A bit more time to work with, but still a tight turn-around. Staying in the Incheon area would definitely be an option – especially if this layover time is of an awkward nature (e.g. arriving at 6pm and leaving at 9am the next morning). Walking around Incheon’s Chinatown and Jayu Park are good places to sightsee – and learn a bit about the country’s more recent history. Ride the AREX to the Gyeyang stop, then transfer to the Incheon subway system and ride to Bupyeong. From Bupyeong, catch line 1 of the Seoul subway to Incheon station – the Chinatown area starts just across the street from the station’s only exit, while the park is a bit of a climb up the hill.

If you’re interested in entertaining children, the COEX mall – and the large aquarium – offers a balance of the familiar and the foreign. A kimchi museum inside the mall offers an extensive look into Korea’s fermented veggies, but save this for a layover without the kids. While you probably don’t want to make a mall your only stop in Korea, it’s worth a few hours of your time – especially if the weather isn’t cooperating. From the AREX, get off at Hongik University, then transfer to subway line 2 and ride to Samseong station in southeast Seoul. The mall is directly connected to the subway station out exit 6.

If you’d rather shop in a more Korean setting, head to the Samcheong-dong and Gahoe-dong area. Both are tourist-friendly areas offering ample amounts of traditional arts and crafts for viewing or buying. A number of art galleries call the area home, while a hanok village shows off some traditional Korean house styles. Start from Anguk station, line 3, exit 2.

For something a bit off the tourist trail, consider the Dapsimni / Janganpyeong Antique Market. Consider these dustier showrooms a better opportunity to view rather than buy, although the friendly shopkeepers may try to convince you otherwise. Dapsimni station on line 5, exit 1 (transfer to this line directly from the AREX at Gimpo station).

If that layover turns into a stopover: (24-72 hours)

At this point, Seoul becomes your oyster. With even 24  hours to work with, seeing multiple parts in Seoul is relatively easy. As a place to spend a full day, downtown Seoul offers plenty of stuff within walking distance. Pick one of Seoul’s five Joseon-Dynasty palaces, the Namdaemun (Southern great gate) shopping area, and the aforementioned Samcheong-dong for arts and crafts, and that can easily be a full day of sightseeing.

Do you have a burning question about travel or life in Korea? Do a search first to see if your question has been answered, then send me an e-mail – chrisinsouthkorea AT gmail DOT com.

Street food in Korea can be divided into two basic categories: Korean, and stuff adapted from abroad. The former category involves anything from dried squid (imagine a seafood-flavored beef jerky) to a fish-shaped pastry with red bean paste filling. From the Western world, you can expect to see hot dogs, corn dogs, and even some Turkish kebabs.

A distinctly Korean element of street food is alcohol, and there’s no better place to partake than a pojang macha. These orange tents offer some cuts of meat and other Korean foods, but the focus here is the alcohol. Beer and soju, to be exact. You’ll find these all over Korea, but most are near where people are already imbibing.

Some Korean street foods worth trying:

ddeokbokki (떡볶이) – rice cakes in cylindrical shape, cooked and soaked in a spicy chili sauce. A little messy potentially, so try not to walk in crowds while eating. It’s spicy, but not so much that you’ll need something else to put out the fire. Expect to pay about 2,500 – 3,000 won for a bowl and a few toothpicks to eat them with.

o-deng (오뎅) – picture a shish kebab, made of fish paste.  They’re best hot, and most commonly enjoyed while staying at the booth – all the better to drink the broth they’re soaking in! If you’re just picking up a snack, pass on a cup of the broth. It’s a bit more difficult to manage a pointy stick and a cup of near-boiling liquid, personally. These are usually about 1,000 – 2,000 won a stick – you might go through two or three until you’re feeling full.

soon-dae (순대) another street food more popular with the older generation, these require some decent-sized cojones to try. Why? These are Korean blood sausages served in pig intestines. Think about what a hot dog is really made of and get back to me. Until then, try it if you’re brave or are looking to impress your Korean friends. About 3,000 won a serving.

The bread in the shape of a cute fish – ing-eo-bbang (잉어빵) – while the bread is nothing special, it’s shaped like a fish and filled with red bean paste. Taste-wise it’s neither sweet nor sour – but it is definitely filling. Note that these are usually only available in the colder months, where three fish can be devoured for 2,000 – 3,000 won. These come piping hot – be careful not to burn yourself!

dalk-ko-chi (닭꼬치) – as close to a chicken shish kebab as you’ll find in Korea. Tender pieces of chicken play nice with the occasional veggie. The meat-on-a-stick is good as well. This will look the most ‘normal’ to Western eyes, next to…

Hot dogs! (핫도그) – the quintessential American snack / meal comes on a stick. It also comes as a corn dog, or covered in French fries – whatever the outside might look like, the inside is the same. Note that they may dunk your dog back in the fryer to reheat it up. This is normal, and will also prevent you from biting into a lukewarm dog – be patient for that extra minute or two!

Finally, a street food that’s less popular: beondegi (번데기), or boiled silkworm pupae. If this sounds like something out of Fear Factor or some other reality show, you may not be that far off. You will very rarely see a person under 40 actually eating these.

On the Western side of things, you’ll find Turkish kebab trucks and urban taco trucks around the two main expat enclaves: Itaewon and Hongdae. The exact locations change nightly, of course, but they wouldn’t be successful if they weren’t easy to spot – or right outside the best clubs! Take them as a good sign of an area worth exploring further.

Located within Jogyesan Provincial Park, 선암사 (Seon-am-sa, or heavenly rock temple) offers Seung-seon-gyo (the bridge seen above) as one of the temple’s National Treasures (Treasure #400). The scholars aren’t sure whether the temple started in either the Three Kingdoms Period (57 BC-AD 676) or the Unified Silla Period (676-935) – either way, it’s pretty old. While the first known name, Haecheonsa, was given in the 6th century, it was changed to the current name Seonamsa by Tosun Kuksa (the highest ranking priest) by the 11th century. He also consolidated several Buddhist sects into two – a Zen-based practice and a Kyo (or religion) based practice.

Things changed quickly during the 정유재란 (Jeong-yu-jae-ran) war, better known as the Japanese invasions in the late 16th century. Along with much of the country, many of Seonamsa’s buildings were destroyed during the war. Restoration came after the war, and a new plan to restore the temples to the original 11th century plans have been underway since 1992. With 18 National Cultural Properties, there aren’t too many Buddhist temples with more.With all that said, Seonamsa seems to play second fiddle to the nearby and more visited Songgwangsa. If you’re up for a three-to-four hour hike, it’s a 6.6km hike through Jogyesan to the other side of the mountain.

One of the engraved stones along the way – if anyone can read the Chinese, please comment!

Looking up at the front entrance at 일주문 (il-ju-mun), Cultural Treasure #96 dating back to the Joseon Dynasty.

This isn’t what you think – they’re tea leaves, I suspect. They serve as a reminder that while the Buddhist temples do serve as tourist attractions, they also serve as homes to the faithful monks.

The colors in this ceiling piece were a little too faded to make for a good shot, but I liked how the black-and-white contrast brought out the patterns.

Looking inside the 대웅전 (dae-ung-jeon), or the main hall.

One way to remember the temple’s history – treasure the pictures of the monks who helped create it.

Two stones remarking on the lives of a couple ancient monks.

Taken from the bus – the ride clocks in at about 45 minutes each way.

While not the largest or most interesting temple in Jeollanam-do, Seonamsa offers enough walking and sights to fill a half-day. It’s also close enough to the larger Songgwangsa. If you’re an intrepid hiker, you can see both in the same day. Alternatively, catch one of the two daily buses to the nearby folk village to enjoy another scenic area of Suncheon.

Ratings (out of 5 taeguks): How do I rate destinations?
Ease to arrive:

Foreigner-friendly:

Convenience facilities:

Worth the visit:

Directions to Seonamsa (선암사): from Suncheon station, walk straight to the main road and turn left. Head to the bus station, then wait for bus 1. It comes every 30-40 minutes, and takes about 45-50 minutes to arrive at the temple. It’s the last stop the bus makes. 1,100 won to ride the bus, and 1,500 won lets you into the temple. Note that from the bus stop to the ticket office is about a 10 minute walk, while the walk from the ticket office to the temple itself is another 20 minutes.

I love the texture of the bleachers – taken at Kyung Hee University in Seoul.

Gotta love dragonflies – and in a park where there are plenty of them around. Taken in a Seongnam city park.

Multi-lingual graffiti. Seen in Hongdae Park in Seoul.

Geometric skylight. Seen in Noksapyeong station.

It looks like a bar code, but it was really the reflections from around the D-Cube Mall near Sindorim station.

In case you wondered what Pororo did after a hard day’s work…