Cichlid species now exist in continents where they did not originally thrive, either through accidental introduction or intentionally, through aquaculture practices. To date, there are two thousand identified species of cichlids and many more are being discovered, year by year.

The Oscar fish, discus fish and the marbled angelfish come from one family. Many fish keepers take care of these species without realizing that they are in fact, scientifically related to each other.

There’s also a chance that you may have already met a species belonging to the Cichlidae family in a restaurant or even at home. The larger species in this family of fishes are caught or even bred for food.

Guidelines for the care of cichlids

Like other animals kept in captivity, there is a minimum amount of care that must be given to cichlids. This section of the article will cover the basics of taking care of cichlids. First, the aquarium or tank should have the right amount of water and the right, consistent temperature.

The goal is to produce an aquatic environment that is close to what the cichlids may find in nature. Many of the commonly available pet cichlids are warm-water fish and prefer a consistent temperature of eighty-two degrees Fahrenheit.

The temperature of the tank has a direct bearing on the activity and metabolism of cichlids, especially the fries. If you have cichlid fries in a warm tank, expect the little fishes to grow twice as fast and be twice as hungry for fry food.

Ideal temperature

Inversely, a low temperature tank produces less active and less aggressive cichlids. As a cichlid keeper, it’s your job to keep the tank’s temperature ideal – not too hot or not too cold. Do not place the tank outdoors or in a spot in the house where hot sunlight is streaming in unabated throughout the day. An electronic or digital heater would be ideal for a cichlid tank.

As for the pH level of the tank, cichlids love alkaline water (unlike goldfish and other fish species who prefer neutral to slighly acidic water). Use a pH kit to measure the alkalinity of the water (8.5 is a good pH level for cichlids). If you are going to do any adjustments, take some water from the tank and keep the cichlids in a separate tank before you add any chemicals to the water.

Do not add any chemicals to the tank while the fish are still in it, as this may cause shock or even death. Any sudden changes to the immediate environment of the fish should be considered a bad move. If you’re having trouble with acidic water, then you can use soda to adjust the alkalinity of the water easily (and cheaply, too!)

Installing a filter in the tank

Water filtration is also important for healthy cichlids. Between sponge filters and under-gravel filters, we highly recommend that you use sponge filters. If a sponge filter is installed correctly in a tank and cleaned regularly, it can be used for your cichlid tank for years. How about under-gravel filters? Under-gravel filters are not as effective and cichlids have a tendency of digging out the tank substrate (which is necessary for effective filtration).

Cichlids must be fed a variety of fresh, frozen and dry foods. The first step is to identify whether the cichlid is herbivore, carnivore or omnivore. If it’s a meat-eater, then pellets and flakes made with fishmeal should be given.

If the cichlid is a herbivore, then avoid giving fishmeal-based foods as this can lead to bloating and eventually, death. Omnivores can be given a combination of plant-based and fishmeal-based commercial foods. Live or frozen food can also be given; just make sure that the live prey/food is disease-free.

Did you know that you can provide cichlids with a natural food source in their tank? All you have to do is to place some rocks in the tank and allow algae to grow on the tanks. Cichlids (even the carnivores) will feed on the algae.

This will ensure that even if you fail to feed them regularly enough, they will not starve. Ideal care always begins in the tank – so avoid overcrowding the aquarium with too many cichlids and always check whether the heater and filter is working.

The size of cichlid aquarium you choose is very important. For newbies, a fairly large aquarium (at least 20 gallons) is a good way to start: it gives cichlids enough space so they do not end up fighting, plus it requires very little maintenance, which is advantageous for someone who is new to raising cichlids.

Make sure your cichlid aquarium has a filter and a water pump. Clean, toxic-free water is important for fish to live.

When decorating your cichlid aquarium, keep in mind that you need to recreate the cichlids’ original habitat. Put in some gravel or sand, limestone and flat stones, overturned flower pots, hardy plants, mini caves, and other structures that your cichlids can use to hide. More than just décor, gravel and sand help neutralize the water’s pH level, while flat stones can be used by some cichlids when they are ready to lay eggs.

It is also important that your aquarium has a lid. Cichlids can be quite aggressive, and sometimes when this happens, they accidentally jump out of their aquariums. Safeguard your cichlids by keeping your aquarium covered but leaving enough opening for oxygen and carbon dioxide to be exchanged.

Find a permanent place for your cichlid aquarium. Keep it away from direct sunlight or any heat source, and minimize moving your aquarium. Too much heat can be bad for your cichlids. To keep the water temperature stable in your cichlid aquarium, install a water heater. This will make sure your cichlids are not affected by the changing temperature in your geographical location.

When you have gotten your cichlid aquarium set up, wait at least a day. This will stabilize the water and allow chlorine to evaporate.

After you have set up your cichlid aquarium, here are some precious tips to make sure your cichlids are comfortable and happy and no fighting ensues among them.

• Start your aquarium with one or a small group of fish. It is not a good idea to crowd out your tank because the natural nitrogen cycle takes some time to get up and running in a new aquarium.
• Clean the sides of your cichlid aquarium at least once a month. Soap is not to be used when cleaning because this may leave traces that can be toxic to your cichlids.
• Feed your cichlids just enough. Too much food will make your cichlids sick, plus it can contribute to the deterioration of your aquarium water quality.
• Change your cichlids’ aquarium water regularly. A 25 percent change every week is good enough. Make sure you also clean the filters during this time.
• If you have to mix cichlids with other fish, make sure the ones you put in have the same habitat requirements as your cichlids, or else they will not be able to survive in this new environment.

Remember that setting up a good cichlid aquarium is just one of many ways for you to keep your cichlids happy and healthy. Proper diet, good water quality, and safety are also considerations in prolonging the life of your cichlids. As a newbie, consult with experienced cichlid raisers and pet shop owners or do your research so you know what the proper environment for your cichlids should be.

Before you start cichlid breeding, it would be good to know what type of breeder your cichlid is.

1. Open brooders – Open-brooding cichlids are those that spawn on open surfaces such as rocks, leaves of plants, logs, and gravel or other substrate. Discus fish, German blue ram, and angelfish are among the cichlids that breed in open spaces. Open brooders usually lay as much as 10,000 eggs. The male cichlid guards the territory while the female cichlid fans the eggs to increase oxygen supply and leads the fry in foraging. Strange cichlid-breeding behaviors such as leaf turning and fin digging have been seen in some cichlid species in South America and America.
2. Cave brooders – Cave-brooding cichlids lay their eggs in caves and other areas that are covered by rocks, plants, and flowerpots. Examples of these are the Kribensis and the convict cichlids. Some strange cichlid-breeding behaviors such as digging a pit to lay eggs have been observed in certain cichlids. Among cave-brooding cichlids, biologists have noticed that parents and free-swimming fry communicate through body movements such as shaking and flicking of pelvic fins.
3. Mouth brooders – The third type of cichlid breeder is one that carries the eggs and fry in its mouth to protect them from predatory fish. Ovophile mouth brooders such as the African cichlids incubate their eggs in their mouth after laying them and may even continue keeping the fry in their mouth for many weeks. Other mouth brooders are larvophiles, which means they first lay their eggs in the open or in a cave, then once the eggs have hatched, take the larvae into their mouth to keep them safe. Cichlid-breeding species that carry their fry in their mouth are mainly females.

Factors affecting cichlid breeding

The ability of the female cichlid to breed depends on factors such as her health, age, and species.

Other external factors that affect cichlid breeding are water quality and temperature. Cichlid breeding and hatching become more conducive when water temperature is between 76 and 78 Fahrenheit and the pH level is alkaline.

The environment also plays a big role in making cichlid breeding possible. Cave brooders feel much more secure in laying their eggs if there are hiding places, so if your cichlid is this type, make sure your aquarium has many of these.

Cichlid breeding is not always successful the first time, because young and inexperienced female cichlids may not be able to carry their eggs for the full term. But over time, they will learn how to breed successfully. As a cichlid raiser, you need to be patient. Cichlid breeding is not carried out mechanically but occurs when the time is right.

Here are some tips to keep in mind when you are buying cichlids:

• Do your research. Before buying cichlids, read up on them. Do they have special needs? Will you be able to meet the requirements of raising them? Many times people take in pets with very little knowledge about caring for them that these animals end up ill or, worse, dead.

• Buy only from a trusted source. Here is where your network of friends and acquaintances come in handy. Seek out experienced cichlids owners from among your network and ask for advice on where to find a trustworthy shop that sells cichlids. You can buy cichlids online, from a local pet shop, or from an experienced cichlid breeder. What is important is the seller can be trusted enough to sell you healthy cichlids and will be happy to replace them if something goes wrong.

Buying from a local source has its advantages because you can go to the store yourself and observe the fish firsthand so it gives you an idea of what you are getting into. On the other hand, if you are looking for special breeds, these are often not available locally but through online shops.

• Be observant. Check the overall appearance of the cichlids you want to buy. Do they look active and alert? Do they swim straight or do they tilt? (Healthy cichlids swim in a lateral matter.) Do they stay too close to the surface and seem like they have trouble breathing? Do they have flat-looking fins? Do they have red raw spots on their bodies? Are their fins ripped and ragged? These are bad signs. If you notice any of these in the cichlids that you check out, turn around and run to the opposite direction. That is not a good place to buy your cichlids.

• Ask questions. Never be ashamed to ask questions from a potential seller. While much of the information you have may come from online or library sources, nothing beats firsthand experience. Asking questions is a good sign and means that you are discriminating and will not just take anything they give you.

• Find out the store’s return policy. This is to make sure that if your cichlid falls sick after you take it home, you can return it and be reimbursed or have it replaced with another.  

• Do not make hasty decisions. You don’t have to make a purchasing decision the moment you step into a store. Observe the cichlids you want to buy. Ask questions. Do additional research. Ask advice from the experts. Think it over very well. Buying cichlids is not something you should do on impulse.

Remember, caring for fish is not an easy thing to get into. So think it over very well before taking your cichlids home. By being committed enough to see them through all the way, you are doing your cichlids a big favor.

There are many reasons why cichlids get sick. These can be caused by infections from bacteria, fungi, or parasites or by environmental factors such as poor water quality.

Here are some common cichlid diseases that you should watch out for:

• Malawi bloat – This kind of cichlid disease is common among African cichlids and fish that are on a mostly vegetable diet. Symptoms include loss of appetite, swelling of the stomach, white feces, rapid breathing, and sulking at the bottom of the tank. At its advanced stage, Malawi bloat can damage the liver, kidney and swim bladder, and the affected cichlid may diet within 24 to 72 hours.

There is a lot of disagreement on the true causes of Malawi bloat, but some say it is caused by a protozoan that naturally resides in fish intestines, proliferating when the cichlid is not fed properly or when the water is dirty. Treatment for Malawi bloat entails adding Metronidazole and Clout to the water, changing up to 50 percent of the water, and removing the filters.

• Swim bladder disease – This cichlid disease affects the swim bladder, an epithelium-lined abdominal sac responsibility for fish buoyancy. Cichlids affected by swim bladder disease float at the top of the water or find it difficult to stay on the bottom of the tank.

Poor diet is one of the major causes of swim bladed disease. When a cichlid is not fed right, it can have intestinal gas or blockage, irritating the bowel and giving bacteria or parasites the chance to wreak havoc on the swim bladder. You can minimize swim bladder disease by not feeding your cichlids too much protein or dried food and introducing lots of fiber-rich food such as zucchini, squash, peas, spinach, carrots, and lettuce.

• Cotton wool disease – This is characterized by a whitish gray coating on the skin, ulcer, damaged fins, patches on the gills, and erosion of head tissue on fish. It is extremely contagious.

The fungus that causes cotton wool disease is found in many aquariums feeding on leftover food and fish carcass. Maintaining aquarium hygiene and preventing chilling, injury, and other forms of stress are some things you can do to prevent your cichlids from catching this disease. The best way to treat cotton wool disease is by salt bath immersion, gentian violet application, or fungicidal medication.

• Fish tuberculosis – An extremely dangerous cichlid disease, fish tuberculosis is highly contagious and can wipe out an entire aquarium population. It can even be contracted by humans through cracks on the skin and cuts when they are fixing or cleaning the tank.

Among the symptoms of this cichlid disease are loss of appetite, sunken stomach, white exterior blotches, and frayed fins. If you suspect that one of your cichlids may have this disease, remove your entire aquarium population and place them in a hospital tank, making sure to separate the sick cichlid. Treat these new tanks with antibiotics like Melafix or Pimafix and make sure your old tanks are disinfected and the substrate bleached thoroughly or thrown out.

• Hole-in-the-head disease – Also known as hexamita, this disease is typical among cichlids and other freshwater fish. Its symptoms are appetite and weight loss and small depressions on the head (thus the name “hole in the head”). There are many reasons for this disease, among them poor water quality and poor diet. Some studies have indicated that there could be a link between hole-in-the-head disease and the lack of vitamins C and D as well as phosphorous and calcium.

Most cichlid diseases are caused by poor water quality and diet, so clean your aquarium regularly and feed your cichlids right. It’s always good to be ready for cichlid diseases. Keep yourself well informed by reading books, researching, and networking with others so you know how to raise your cichlids happy and healthy.

Among the more than 2,000 species of cichlids, there are a few types of cichlid that have gained popularity among aquarium enthusiasts around the world. There are many reasons for their popularity. Some are well-loved because of their stunning appearance, while others for being hardy cichlid species that are easy to keep, feed, and breed.

Here are five of the most common cichlids that have become popular aquarium fish:

• Angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare) – Originating from the Amazon, Orinoco, and Essequibo rivers in South America, the angelfish has become one of the more popular cichlids because of its unique, elegant appearance, inquisitive nature, and mild-mannered disposition. They are not shy toward humans and will even swim toward the glass or come up to the surface when it’s time to feed. Aquarium owners easily take to them because they are easy to feed and tolerate a wide range of water conditions.

• Oscar fish (Astronotus ocellatus) – Also called oscar, tiger oscar, velvet cichlid, or marble cichlid, the oscar fish comes from South America and have even  been considered food fish. Hardy and tough, they can tolerate a wide range of water conditions and high toxin levels. This fast-growing fish (it can grow beyond 18 inches) will eat a range of food, including pellets, live food, and flakes. Make sure you feed them enough live food so they stay healthy and their colors stay bright.

• Convict cichlid (Archocentrus nigrofasciatus) – This type of cichlid is a good fish for beginners because of its small size and its ease in keeping and breeding. They are not fussy about food or water conditions. When keeping convict cichlids, one needs to recreate their original habitat, putting in rocks and artificial caves—they’ll eventually use these for breeding—into the aquarium. They tend to burrow into the substrate, so external filtration is best for this type of cichlid.

• Discus fish (Symphysodon sppi) – Another favorite among aquarium enthusiasts, the discus fish is probably one of the more socialized cichlids. They are probably one of the few schooling cichlids and, in their original habitat, live in large groups. They require much social interaction for them to enhance their character, so when getting discus fish, it is wise to get more than two of them. Their breeding tanks are simple at best—no substrate needed, simple filtration system, and a lot of spawning sites. The aquarium water should be soft enough to let the eggs develop properly.

• Jack Dempsey – Named after a boxing heavyweight, Jack Dempsey cichlids are easy to breed and feed and can live up to 10 years. It is their stunning coloration that piques people’s interest. When they are young, Jack Dempsey cichlids show a tan or light gray color with some turquoise specks. As they mature, their colors turns purple gray with some blue and green highlights while its specks turn gold.

Before you decide to bring home one of your own, it is important that you understand cichlid behavior. This will temper your expectations of your new cichlid and help you adjust to it during the initial weeks. Raising cichlids is not a piece of cake, but once you have gotten used to it, you will find pleasure and joy in growing and breeding them.

Aggressive temperament

It is probably the first thing that any cichlid beginner finds out: Cichlids are aggressive.

Put a couple of cichlids into a tank and one of them is bound to dominate, while the rest of the bullied population will retreat to their caves.

There are many reasons why cichlids display aggressive behavior. It can happen when another fish encroaches into their territory or tries to steal food or a potential mate. In such cases, a cichlid shows aggression by flaring its gills and spreading its fins to make it look as large as possible. If the other fish isn’t deterred, one may progress to tail beating in which a cichlid attempts to show its strength by pushing water at its rival. This escalates to a face-to-face combat, which includes mouth wrestling and lip locking and, finally, chasing each other in a circle and attempting to bite the other.

Cichlid breeding behavior

Breeding behavior among cichlids vary. Some lay their eggs on open surfaces such as rocks, leaves, logs, and substrate—this type of cichlid is an open brooder. Others, on the other hand, need to retreat into caves or crevices to lay their eggs. For this type of cave brooders, it is important that the aquarium has many caves and other hiding places. Still another form of cichlid breeding is mouth brooding, in which the mother fish carries her eggs in her mouth until they hatch.

Breeding cichlids are a joy to watch. In some open-brooding cichlids, both the male and female parents are involved in caring for their brood, with the male guarding the territory against predators and the female fanning the eggs to increase oxygen supply. There have been some cases of female cichlids eating their young. This is often seen in mouth brooders. Because mouth-brooding cichlids carry their fry in their mouth, they often go hungry during the entire breeding process and end up eating their fry once hatched. This is why when you suspect that you parent cichlid could be eating its young, it is important to put it in a separate tank to preserve your baby cichlids.

Coloration

Some cichlids have also known to change their colors depending on mood or maturity. Many male cichlids turn dark when it is time for them to breed. One particular cichlid, the rift lake species, shows shyness and dominance through color. When rift lake cichlids are stressed or timid, they look pale, but they turn dark or show off vibrant colors when they display their aggressive streak. Some cichlids, like the Maylandia crabro, for example, change coloration when they are stressed, such as when they have recently been moved to a new tank.

Once you have adjusted to your cichlids, you will discover more unique behavior in them. Find pleasure in getting to know your cichlids, and you will find that they will reciprocate your positive behavior.

Cichlid sizes range from as small as one inch to as large as 36 inches. Their shapes also vary: some are laterally compressed while others are elongated and cylindrical. They are mostly found in freshwater, although some can tolerate short periods of being in brackish or saltwater.

Some cichlids, like the tilapia or tilapiines, are food fish that are now cultured largely in many parts of Asia. Others have become popular aquarium fish—for example, the oscar fish, discus fish, and angelfish—because they are small, not picky eaters, and easy to breed.  Still others, like the Cichla species, are considered game fish. For example, the peacock bass of South America has become one of the more popular sportfish, generating more than $8 million a year in revenue among anglers.

Cichlids are generally aggressive, and it is wise to put a small group of 8 to 12 of them in one tank rather than keeping a pair, in which one might end up being picked on. It also helps to put in many hiding places such as caves and plants for some cichlids to retreat into when one cichlid starts becoming aggressive.

Diet

What makes cichlids unique is their complex set of muscles in which both the upper and lower pharyngeal bones work together to process food. This allows cichlids to eat a wide variety of food.

Cichlids are generally herbivores that eat algae and plant life. Every now and then, they also feed on small animals like invertebrates. Some cichlids such as the tilapia are detritivores, feeding on all types of organic material. There are also cichlids that eat a variety of small animals. For example, one type of cichlid feeds on snails, while another feeds on sponges. There is a certain cichlid that feeds on the parasites that are found on catfish.

Breeding

There are four types of cichlid breeders. The open brooders lay their legs on the surfaces of rocks, leaves, or logs. Open-brooding cichlids are hands-on parents, with the male cichlid watching over the territory while the female cichlid caring for the fry until they hatch.

The second type of cichlid breeder lays its eggs in caves, crevices, holes, or any other hidden place. This kind of breeder has been observed to communicate with it young through fin flicking and shaking.

There are also the ovophile mouth brooders that snatch up their eggs and keep them in their mouths until they hatch. Among them are the cichlids found in Lakes Malawi, Tanganyika, and Victoria. The opposite happens with larvophiles mouth brooders that lay their eggs in open surfaces or in caves then take the hatched fry into their mouth.

Some cichlids are monogamous while others are polygamous, although this form of pairing isn’t consistently found in specific species. All cichlids, however, are hands-on parents that contribute significantly in caring for their brood during the breeding process.

There have even been instances in which cichlid parents extend their caring across generations by also lending a hand in raising the offspring of their own brood.