coldfear

Desperate For Loving

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Mon, 23 Jan 2012 19:24:00 PST

Well im still keeping the couch warm these days but some of the Wolf Pack came to town to make some kills and I was able to get out and shoot some photos of the action. Desperate for Loving is the name of the climb so dont worry if you thought this TR was about my love life you are mistaken. My life is more like Desperate To Climb these days but my day is coming soon and the training is keeping me focused. I will have some more big post coming soon but wanted to keep the posts coming.

Kelly Dedel and Stephen Berwanger heading into one of the closes approaches in the valley "Desperate For Loving"

A gorgeous day in the valley!

Desperate For Loving is a great route that always seems to take on its leaders with a great mental challenge. Its a bit mixed with some great movement all the way up. I highly recommend this route if your in town and its in.

Stringer and Slow Turning hiding out in the morning shade

Stephen Berwanger "Stevo" Heading up the first pitch

Stevo glad to be out of the cave... I think ha

The Route

Stevo glad to be back in the South Fork no doubt

Stevo playing hookey in the CAVE

Kelly enjoying the second pitch. I love this picture of the desert like landscape climbing

My lovely and talented lady Kelly Dedel picking her way up her first real route. For only climbing about 10 pitches of ice ever she did an incredible job.

Those Greenies just cant get enough of Wyoming ICE!

The Regulators Episode 6 - Spindrift Disposition

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Mon, 26 Dec 2011 14:08:00 PST

Keeping the Regulators season going !

Early Season Ice Hunt

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Sat, 24 Dec 2011 07:41:00 PST

Im continuing to catch up from last years TR's and there are some great ones to come but here is a short and sweet one.

As soon as the first snow hits the hills every ice climber in the Rocky Mountains begins to hunger for the first taste of ice. We head into our secret shaded chimneys and elusive north faces with only one thought on our mind. Eventually after hiking or driving numerous miles we all get that day to sink our tools for the first time in the season. This time Kevin and Stevo made their trip to Cody to join Kelly and I on a hike in to my secret spot in the hills that provides ice from October to July!

Hiking into Skirmish and Coldwar you will be rewarded with climbing ice before anyone else and some incredible views.

Kevin Craig psyched to throw tools for the first time in the epic season to come.

Napping and climbing ice all in the same day...gotta love climbing in the valley.

Ice climbing in October at its best and a Mulkey hike pays off for the crew. Skirmish on the right and Cold War on the left

Stephen Berwanger (stevo) always smiling when on ice !

Kevin Craig feeling solid after a few months off the ice

Kelly enjoying her first time ice climbing after I gave her a very intense 1 minute lesson ha !

Kelly taking in her last glimpse of her first ice climbing adventure.

Kevin Craig enjoying the views of the valley after some early ice season climbing. This view is why climbing here is like no other place.

Incredible sunset on the way out to cap off a great day of climbing with good friends

Watch the video below about the trip.

National Geographic Wyoming

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Wed, 21 Dec 2011 19:03:00 PST

Super psyched and proud to be National Geographic Adventure Photo of the week. Thanks a bunch to Jay Beyer!

Click here to see the link

House Of The Rising Vein

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Mon, 12 Dec 2011 21:25:00 PST

Fresh from a kill on Spirit Mountain Doug Shepherd and I (Aaron Mulkey) did not sit fat and happy for very long. Within days of coming out of the mountains our appetite for another big climb began to manifest itself. Doug made the trip back to Cody within 4 days of being back home and was fueled up to rally once again. This time we set our sights on another area but after a short hike to scout conditions we were shutdown by the lack of ice and cold temps, so we decided to go back to a higher elevation area.

Chirstopher Guyer, Daniel Burson and Doug Shepherd at the Ford round table planning our next move after finding no ice in our first objective.

A bit bummed but still psyched we kept our spirits high as we traveled to the glacier lake trail. A cold nights bivy in the truck is never easy to wake up from energized and ready to crank, but we managed to crawl out of our warm cocoons. Daniel Burson decided to join us on this mission which helped spread the weight while hiking the Beartooths steepest trail. I had spotted some potential new lines a few weeks earlier but once hitting Glacier Lake we realized lots of new snow was going to make those climbs an epic approach, so we decided to settle on one of the Beartooths earliest ice routes to form "Funeral For A Friend".

Gettin our early approach on

You gotta love an alpine sunrise illuminating your route

Approaching The Bullet with the route laying on the far left side in a major chimney system

Aaron Mulkey giving his Blue Steel look

The route was in great shape and the weather was incredibly good. Normally this route can be a massive funnel of non stop spindrift challenging your every movement to progress upward. To our surprise we found a gorgeous vein of ice spilling down the chimney like taffy.

Daniel Burson moving through the lower chimney

Doug Shepherd taking the incredible vein pitch

Daniel Burson enjoying early ice climbing at it best

Moving quickly through the constricted chimney we were placed below a massive chockstone that marked the start of an engaging roof of groveling.

Aaron Mulkey groveling through the roof pitch

Moving through the roof and onto the slope above is where most people stop on this route but we decided to see if we could push it to the top. Unable to find gear on the next pitch in the chimney and not enough ice, we decided to climb the left wall to continue our progress and tread further onto new ground.

Daniel leading up the 3rd pitch wall

As we got to the next belay we found a small vein of ice rising upwards like a compass taking us out of the chimney system on climbers left. This pitch provided some really enjoyable alpine ice in a granite corner for 200+ plus feet.

Doug leading the ice corner pitch onto new ground above.

Daniel Burson livin large in an alpine ice paradise

Another vein of ice continued to draw us further up the mountain leading to the crux of the route. A short granite wall with bulbs of ice were like a connect the dot game as I figured out the right sequence of movement to complete the pitch.

Aaron Mulkey continuing up the vein of ice and through the mixed wall above

Daniel following the crux pitch and figuring out the sequence

A few hundred feet of steep snow led us to the top and we celebrated yet another new route and an incredible day. We decided to call our new extension of Funeral For A Friend "Funeral for another friend" in dedication to Joe Puryear who died while climbing in Tibet a few days earlier. Joe was a friend to many and an inspiration to all.

Excited about our new route !

Celebrating Halloween Alpine Style enjoying my summit treat !

Check out the video of the route

No Dougie Left Behind

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Thu, 24 Nov 2011 19:08:00 PST

Doug Shepherd mid way through the massive chimney system

Doug Shepherd left Colorado in the afternoon and our plan was to meet in Cody and then proceed to the trailhead and begin hiking under the full moon. At the brink of moonlight Doug and I began our trek back into Spirit Mountain where we had gotten a weather beat down nearly 6 months prior in the spring. I had scouted the mountain the weekend prior with my girlfriend Kelly. Our first date began with hiking up to the mountain in hurricane force winds and snow and then hiking over a pass into another valley to check conditions. Who knows how that didnt scare her off but for some reason she stuck around where most of my partners would have turned around ha.

Kelly mid way through the two miles of ice covered talus fields.

Doug and I reached the base of the mountain around 2am and quickly built our man cave and got some rest before sunrise. We awoke to blistering winds and the threat of a storm looming over the peak of the mountain, but we were fired up to giver. Realizing the route we’d spotted route last spring was not in, we opted for the most obvious chimney system on the mountain. We knew it had been previously attempted but spindrift, time and a chockstone pitch had frustrated the previous attempts. There was very little snow and we could see ice in the chimney, so we didn’t stand around very long discussing other options.

The red line marks the major chimney system.

Doug Shepherd heading up the first pitch through mixed terrain

Here you can see just how big the mountain is from a photo Tanner shot of Doug and I climbing

Aaron Mulkey heading up the 3rd pitch

Dougie heading up through easy ground above the 3rd pitch

Mulkey climbing a nice little vein of ice on the 4th pitch

Doug on one of the crux pitches of the chimney that took some gentle balance and swings with very little gear

The route was spectacular! From the very first pitch, Doug and I were having a good time. As we got into the chimney system, the wind became non-existent and we felt like we were entering the heart of the mountain. After the chockstone pitch, as you stare up a steep snow couloir, the mountain tricks you into thinking the hard climbing is over… but two more pitches of hard climbing protect the summit celebration.

Mulkey heading up the slopes above the 6th pitch

This is the large slope above the 6th pitch that would be very threatening if avalanche conditions existed

Mulkey climbing through the overhanging chockstones of the 2nd crux pitch

To achieve victory, we had to work to earn each piece of protection and elevation gained on the last two pitches. Our celebration was short as it was getting dark and a storm was beginning to take over the summit. Neither of us had been on the mountain before and the walk off wasn’t straightforward. As Doug packed up some of his gear, I walked toward the edge of the mountain where I believed the walk off began. I decided to hike off the edge, take a closer look and make sure it was the walk off I had pictured in my mind from a photo. Once I realized it was the right spot, I waited a few minutes, thinking Doug had seen me walk away and knew what direction I was heading. A few minutes later, as a massive storm started blowing in snow and darkness, I hiked back to the top of the mountain (about 20 feet), but saw no sign of Doug. I began yelling his name and walking back to where we had summited (200 yards away). I still could not find Doug! Minutes earlier we were celebrating one of the best days in the mountains, and then I lost Doug! I felt sick to my stomach. I began wandering around and yelling at the top of my lungs but the 40mph winds thwarted any chance of him hearing me and the blowing snow and clouds were cutting my visibility every second.

Doug enjoying the nice ice runnel on the upper crux pitch.

oh he was screaming....

Doug climbing the last pitch to the top which was not an easy one.

I love this shot. Doug enjoying the top views as I freeze below in the depths of the mighty chimney.

As darkness took over I wandered back to the walk off hoping I would see his headlamp, but still no signs of Doug. At this point, I began to think the worst…thoughts of Doug slipping off the edge…falling to the base, but I tried to stay positive. The top of the mountain was now engulfed in a full-on blizzard and I did not have enough clothes to survive a night out in the cold. Neither did Doug. After huddling in the rocks for a while, I decided the best option was to go down. I hoped that Doug had found the other way down or was in front of me. After making my way to the valley below, I sat on a rock, turned my headlamp off and just prayed to see a light in the darkness somewhere. I flashed my headlamp periodically, hoping for some sign that he was still alive. I decided to head over the pass towards camp and hoped that he would be sitting in the tent, wondering where I was. I knew that hope was far-fetched. As I descended over the pass towards camp, in the distance, I could see what looked like fireflies in the valley below. I knew that two of our friends, Tanner Callender and Chris Guyer, were coming up to climb in the valley. I began yelling at them as I got closer, asking them if Doug was with them. Eventually, I made it back to camp but found that Doug was not with them.

Moments before loosing Doug

Suddenly, two of our other friends showed up. Unknown to all of us, Rusty Willis and Daniel Burson were hiding in the dark in their tent with plans to scare the crap out of us. When they overheard the situation, everyone’s tone changed. Quickly, they split into two teams and began the search as I tried to re-fuel so I could head back out and retrace our steps. I was physically and mentally exhausted, but could not rest until I found him.

Rusty and Daniel made quick time heading over the pass, into the other valley where the descent leads. As they crested over the pass, they caught a glimpse of Doug’s headlamp high above and in the distance. Doug was still on top of summit plateau ridge, trying to gain his bearings and looking for signs of me. Prior to everyone leaving on the search, we created a way to communicate via headlamp. When Rusty and Daniel confirmed they found him, they communicated this to me and then I was able to communicate this to Chris and Tanner, who were heading towards the base of the mountain.

If you’re in the climbing game long enough, you will eventually have a friend or two pass away. Sadly, I am no stranger to those feelings but this time was different because I was fully immersed in the situation. Difficult thoughts and emotions consumed me. It’s hard to describe the emotions that pulsed through me…the thoughts of him being lost or even worse, dead…were some of the most difficult moments in my life. As they brought Doug off the mountain, he was blitzed physically and mentally and we began to get fuel back into his system right away.

There were many lessons learned on this trip, but the number one was don’t leave your partner’s side, no matter what. Wanting to save time and move fast, I thought going ahead to evaluate the walk off would save us time, and I just assumed Doug saw the direction I had hiked. Doug knew I was leaving but never took notice of the exact direction and, in a sea of boulders, it’s very easy to get lost. Now Doug and I always use the Buddy System and we haven’t lost each other since!

Here is the video of the route which started of the first Episode of The Regulators

The next TR takes you on to another new route in a series of FA's that gave Doug Shepherd and myself an early season stoke

NEW Conditions Page

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Sun, 20 Nov 2011 17:46:00 PST

A new look is in the works with Coldfear, and the conditions page is one of the most valuable pages for many of you. Click the link on the toolbar on the right for the Coldfear conditions page or click HERE. Pics will be placed on the Coldfear Facebook page as well. I recommend you LIKE the Coldfear Facebook page for updates.

The Hat Trick

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Sun, 13 Nov 2011 09:42:00 PST

"Climbing into the dark, catching the last bit of light is a great reminder why we climb"

The Hat Trick

Experiencing the world through endless second hand information is not enough but it’s what fuels the progression of ourselves. I have found the edge of my seat and the thrill of the next adventure through the eyes and words of others.

Injuries can happen so quickly; like one touch of the reset button, everything changes. A crowd cheers in celebration as I rise off my back from the turf and stare into the goal. My eyes see the ball in the back of the net but my body is not as excited about the ligament that just snapped down my leg like a rubber band. I would like to say it was the biggest futball (aka soccer) game of my life and I scored the winning goal for my team in some world class match, but it was only a pick up game and the team needed a player. The success of impressing my girlfriend and scoring a hat trick was shortly celebrated as I rose to my feet and could barely walk. A day and an MRI later, I’m told my ACL is blown and I have torn Meniscus Lateral and Medial and will need surgery right away.

"Some of my last moments with two good legs"

My body hit the reset button which created a reboot of my entire system physically and mentally. This is my first big Injury of my life and perhaps the most memorable timeout ever given. I was given two choices: either lay down and let it beat me up and cripple me or take a chance to sit in the back seat and take in a new view. So far the backseat has provided a new outlook, which has refueled new inspiration and appreciation for the mountains. Like a child if you take something away from me I want it even more and this time it’s my favorite playground. Mountains have always been the oxygen in my blood keeping me going; no matter how bad things got, they would always keep giving. The reset has been embraced creating a new drive and sense of empowerment.

"My last trip into the Beartooths in October with Doug Shepherd and Rusty Willis"

The day after my injury I had planned to be in Canada for the Banff Film Festival to support Rab and get out with my boys Stevo (aka Stephen Berwanger), Kevin Craig, Kenny Gasch and Tanner Callender. It was surely going to be a grand adventure full of incredible ice climbing and laughs with the boys but the injury made changes to my winter itinerary. Making the call to tell these guys I wasn’t coming was incredibly difficult, but as I made the calls an overwhelming feeling of stoke came over me. I was suddenly the armchair climber getting my thrills and psyche through others’ outings. Each day they went climbing, I awaited their story of success like an anxious child awaiting the next gift.

I realized the power all of us have to provide energy and inspiration to others. This exchange comes through many veins of communication such as blogs, fbook, forums, twitter and the simplest and effortless form of a simple phone call or text from your partners climbing stouts. This will be the first time in 13 years of ice climbing I have had to take the bench for the beginning months of the season and I believe there is a lesson to be learned from the Hat Trick that caused my delisting off the roster.

Within the injury lies a Hat Trick of goals for myself:
Physical Goal: My body is being given a period of recovery for the many miles of adventures it has endured. I know I’m the worst at giving my body recovery time and as John Frieh told me the day before my injury, Training= Work + Recovery/Rest, “Always”. Connie at the Alpine Training Center in Boulder, Co has been writing my training since September and has taken my training to the next level this fall. She has also preached to me about recovery but it has been so hard to embrace that philosophy even though I know it’s the right thing to do. Sorta like your parents telling you not to do it just makes you want to do the opposite. This timeout will be good on many levels of rest but will not be a full timeout on training. Connie has been given the difficult task to write training for a one-legged athlete for awhile. Training for the Ouray Competition was our goal but now it’s training for recovery and the true testing grounds. I will come back to the outdoor Octagon stronger then ever.

Training with Connie at the Alpine Training Center has been incredible for me"

Mental Goal: There is nothing more mentally challenging then a serious injury for an athlete. Kelly Cordes is one of the first guys that come to my mind when I think of climbers who have trained hard mentally and physically through injuries to kick them in the ass and rise above. I choose my own path of recovery mentally and it is surely going to be a first ascent of new terrain for myself but will be fueled by my incredible comrades providing plenty of motivating visual and mental climbing porn. I have already begun to experience a new energy and appreciation for the mountains. Along this path I have also realized the importance of the connections we gain through others’ adventures and how we are all fueled by each other to push the sport and ourselves further. Our motivation is simply a click away. Mountain ranges and climbs are more visually accessible then ever before and perhaps this is why athletes are accomplishing more now than ever in the mountains. We all serve a purpose to each other no matter if you have never climbed before or you are a seriously accomplished climber; we fuel each others’ drives and inspirations through our own actions.

Future Goal- Sitting now in the back of my seat I have seen things not visible from the edge of my seat which has changed how I view my world. We are all the makers of our authenticity and we will never know our full potential unless we push ourselves. The unknown keeps me awake at night but is also what I fear most. It’s this sense of passion and fear that creates a balance in my life. I want to share authentic experiences with my partners and others through visually-inspiring moments.

"I cant climb for a couple of months so I think I found my rehab plan"

I keep thinking I need to keep “winning” but I now realize I have already won.

My Life Be Like

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Tue, 20 Sep 2011 21:10:00 PDT

This was filmed all in one day on a gorgeous spring day in Cody, Wy. Solo of Bozos Revenge in the South Fork Valley and a quick run down the Shoshone River in Cody, Wy with a nice workout to finish the day. As I like to say " Life Is For The Living"

Winchester Goose Route Video

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Sun, 11 Sep 2011 22:01:00 PDT

Enjoy!

Winchester Goose Tower!

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Mon, 05 Sep 2011 19:36:00 PDT

Tanner Callender and myself made a couple trips into my 2nd favorite playground over two weekends. The first weekend we had high hopes of finding some Alpine ice but after getting to the NW face of Spirit all we got was a great view of the Bearstooth which was very worthwhile. The next day we got a super early start at 12pm and headed for the steep faces of Spirits North side. We ended up finding a great line we named Winchester Goose Tower!

The pass between Spirit Mtn. and the Bearstooth

The Infamous Bearstooth

Tanner enjoying our "Alpine Start "

Taking it in

Our Route- All pitches are 200ft rope stretchers to really good ledges. After gaining the Ridge on the 5th pitch the climbing gets much easier until the last pitch gaining the top of the tower.

Getting to the base of the walls was very interesting. Early in the morning you want some kind of crampons.

Tanner heading up the first pitch

Tanner heading out on the 3rd pitch. We were psyched how good the rock quality was

Tanner gaining the ridge line after the 4th pitch. It was getting super late and we realized our 12pm start was not going to get us to the top so we ended up bailing into the couloir off the ridge.

As we headed down we got a super good visual of our tower and began making plans to come back the weekend to complete the route in a day. We knew we had gotten the hardest climbing done and with a 4am start from the trailhead it was going to be all about moving fast and light to reach the top quickly.

This is a better, different angle to view our route line

We left the car around 4:30 am and got to the wall in perfect timing as the sun hit it

Me heading up the second pitch

I guess rock climbing isnt so bad !

Coming up the 3rd pitch

Me heading up the 4th pitch with some very memorable movements

Myself on the lower part of the 4th pitch

Tanner the Outlaw

Tanner on the lower pitches

Tanner heading up the easier terrain towards the tower

Tanner doing the last moves on to the top of the tower!

Psyched to be on top of the tower after 8 long pitches of incredible climbing

rappelling of the tower on to the ridge

Tanner running up the remaining easy terrain to the top of Spirit Mountain

Celebrating a successful day and plenty of daylight !

The route is super good quality and provides climbing at a moderate grade around 5.9. Its in a very impressive place with inspiring views! I would go back to climb it in a heartbeat and I dont consider myself a rock climber ha

Heading off to the top of Spirit looking into Glacier Lake area.

As Tanner and I head off the top of Spirit and down one of glaciers on the south side we ran into this guy who came up the glacier with NO Helmet or Crampons and decided to follow us down. Within a few steps he slipped and self arrested and I quickly decided I did not want to have to be responsible for this guys death so we roped him in and lowered him down the glacier to where he could safely walk off. Im amazed how dumb people can be and they put prepared people in a bad situation to where all the sudden we were liable for him. I had long talk with the guy but who knows if he will have learned.

Climbing the Grand

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Wed, 31 Aug 2011 21:28:00 PDT

Video that goes with the story below!

Clarity In Motion

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Sun, 28 Aug 2011 19:01:00 PDT

The mountains have always been my refuge but this trip was less about the climbing and more about finding my own balance. Life knocks you off your feet every once in awhile and regaining that balance can be a struggle between family, friends, love, work and your own issues. I have managed over the last few years to keep both feet on the ground which leaves balancing life a very easy task but also allows great things to pass me bye when Im not willing to take risks. I have taken my fare share of risks in the mountains but those risks are always rewarding no matter the outcome. There are so many other risks to take in life and I have recently learned I dont seize these opportunities and overcome my fears I will never know the rewards. Life and climbing are much alike and even after 12 years of climbing Im still learning.

The sky burns with brilliant flames over my head as the mighty Tetons cast a canopy in front of me. Starting with a lightly lit trail leading to the heart of the Grand Teton I begin the nearly 6000ft elevation gain into the darkness. Headphones on and blazing trail I make it to the lower saddle around 11pm and also got some bonus elevation gain due to getting off route (rookie move). I reach the warmth of my sleeping bag and my body begins to shutdown with only one thought remaining in my mind, to re-boot in the morning.

Stevo (Stephen Berwanger) had been in the Tetons for a couple days getting his first tool swings since the 2011 Bozeman Ice Festival where he completely blew his shoulder out on Black Magic. Stevo loves ice and and will chase it no matter what month it is and this time his chase led him to the Tetons. We decided to hook up for a day of ice and rock and we got every bit of what we asked for. We had the Black Ice Couloir on our mind but once we saw there was no ice in the bottom and were told it wasnt worthwhile anymore we decided to climb the Enclosure Couloir and then climb the Northwest ridge of the Grand Teton to the top.

The morning started off right!

I have heard the stories of the Valhalla Traverse and it lives up to everything I have heard. The quality of the dirt is much like soupy potatoes and the rock is similar to a bag of chips.

Stevo enjoying his second day of throwing his ice tools. The smile on his face could be seen from Idaho!

Almost a thousand feet of icey goodness.

Incredible place...

Climbing 5.7 in ice boots always makes you feel a little less highly about your skills as a climber

Stevo shouldering the load and pullin hard on that newly purchased shoulder

Mommas dont let your kids grow up to be climbers that get caught in lighting storms. We got lucky to find a place to dive into while the lighting storm passed. Nothing like climbing with lighting rods (aka ice tools) on your back high on the mountain. I will upload some great storm video soon.

This was just another great pitch of climbing with some fresh sun after the storm

My turn to carry load and find some friction in my ice boots

Stevo "Take rope not pictures Mulkey"

Clarity is much easier to chase then it is to catch and perhaps we are never meant to fully find it, the journey it which we seek it defines who we are. My love and passions have taken me to some spectacular places and I believe the best is yet to come I just hope that place is ready for me!

The High Road

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Mon, 15 Aug 2011 22:04:00 PDT

The mountains are in incredible place for me that always bring resolve to my life no matter the weather or season. There are few things in life that hold that power over a soul. Obstacles in life are in everyday event but obstacles in the mountains are life changing. Much can be learned about ones love for the mountains and we can only hope each trail out leads to a better life.

Looking For The Edge

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Tue, 09 Aug 2011 21:49:00 PDT

Why would you want to search for the edge of the world ?

Deep within one of Wyoming's mountain stained towns on a weathered bar stool this question emerged over a bravely ordered margarita. A Whiskey seasoned cowboy over hears our conversation in the barrel sized pub within scope distance of the mighty Wind River Range. This would become the finish line for many of my adventures to come but little did I know it would be where the story would begin. The random discussion was fanned across the sparsely occupied bar top as we discussed exploration in the mountains and searching for the unknown. The set of tattered dusty cowboys at the end of the bar perked up and asked " Why would you want to search for the edge of the world". Stunned the cowboys wanted to partake in the conversation we quickly fired back our thoughts and the conversation would last for another hour. The drive I feel to seek out the unknown is a fearful yet fulfilling need. I once heard Hendri Coetzee say something like " We fear the unknown but its also the unknown that attracts us".

Been Here ?
An email from Forrest McCarthy of Jackson, Wy streams across my screen with a few pictures of a river and a short brief on a backyard run. I didnt know Forrest at this point, but anyone willing to hike untold miles with a heavy pack, map and a hope is a guy to stay away from for most people. Emails began to stream back and forth and before I knew it I was shouldering my boat nearly 8 miles into the Wind River Range.

Tom Sunderland- " We are following this trail to where"

trying to transport myself to the putin

Did I mention these crazy guys were coming with us ?

Forrest is a well know explorer and carries his raft all over the Wyoming Mountains and when he said he had a possible un-run river in the Wind River Mountains I signed up instantly. I started looking at the proposed mission down the East Fork River and the topo lines got closer and closer and my thoughts began wondering if these rubber pushers knew what they were getting into. Im always up for watching some carnage but this river would take us many miles from any trail or help. I enlisted the young trusty epic appetites of Tom Sunderland and Nathan Danforth who have survived previous Wind River Missions with me.

You cant tell but I have a huge grin ear to ear

Once at the trailhead i decided it was time to become an Alpacka Rafter. This was Forrest's pack with his raft and all supplies needed for the next two days.

Argh... here is my stuff needed for the next two days. I told Forrest he should be a kayaker for the next 4 hours and I would carry his pack but for some reason he wasnt convinced. Notice the sick Cilogear pack? yes this thing is light and almost waterproof. basically I shoulder my kayak and carry all my heavy gear in the pack. It works super well and since it is all waterproof light weight fabrics it doesnt soak up water in my boat and I can keep all my food and supplies in it. WINNING!

Tom Sunderland Firing up some mank (add water)

Notice the Mosquitos in the pic ? They were horrible the entire trip off the river. Resting during the hike in was not welcoming by the swarms of mosquitos.

Tom Sunderland busting through the whole in one of the fabulous gorges!

Forrest showing us how its done!

This bigun marked the end of day one for us. There is a possibility the lower is runnable but its gonna be spicey. This is after about 7 hours of paddling and a 4 hour hike . Lots of great drops throughout the day and over 2000 feet of drop to come the next day!

A fire in the middle of nowhere and miles of unknown whitewater ahead.... Life doesnt get much better!

Day 2 was off to a great start and I was all smiles on this one

Wyatt Roscoe pushing the limits of Alpacka Rafts and styling it

Hands down these guys owed plenty of booty beers but damn they were going big

Tom Sunderland getting his wake up call for the morning

Nathan Danforth thinking he has found graceland!

This is why I explore

Forrest boofin rubber

More water would be great but were not complaining

We covered almost 18 miles of river during out East Fork River mission and I would go back in a heartbeat. We needed more water although it was probably ideal for Forrest and Wyatt it was a bit low for us. Double the water and this creek is an instant classic with miles of easy read and run class 5 with some big drops scattered throughout the run and some very cool gorges. I think we only portaged maybe 10 times which is damn good all things considered.

Normally the breeds of rafters and kayakers dont mix but we moved incredibly fast and the team worked well together. Forrest and Wyatt are very talented guys and I would be happy to paddle with these guys (almost) anywhere!

I bet the edge of the world would have a great view

I told those Cowboys if there were an edge of the world we would find it and come back to tell them all about !

The Winds Trip Teaser

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Mon, 01 Aug 2011 19:38:00 PDT

Just recovering from an incredible trip chasing the unknown in search of whitewater treasures deep within the Wind River Mountains. There is something about these type of missions that purifies why I kayak or climb. I will have a full write up with photos soon but for now these will hopefully get you psyched for the full story!

Rab Partnership

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Tue, 28 Jun 2011 12:55:00 PDT

I have been with Rab for over a year now and have been nothing but impressed with the quality of products and caliber of people working for Rab. This partnership is going to be a storybook of numerous adventures taking there products through some of the most intense tests of all "Mulkey Missions".
Read Here For More Info

Stay tuned in for many many updates to come!

We Be Killin It

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Fri, 25 Mar 2011 16:12:00 PDT

"The state of Wyoming is wealthy in oil and gas, but who knew it would be so rich in first ascents? My partners and I continue to explore the deep unknown backcountry, and while our exploring takes us on many long days of scoping nothing but sage brush and snow-covered peaks, occasionally we find a few gems.

The past few winters have been very good to me, and it seems like this winter, my streak continues of successful hunting missions. Doug Shepherd and I started hunting up high this year in October deep within the Wyoming/Montana mountains. We returned to a project we had attempted in spring 2010 when we encountered a massive storm that blew us all the way back to the trailhead without even getting a tool out. Our second attempt was successful, with a big day of climbing and one of my favorite routes to date. Everything played out well until the top, where Doug and I were seperated in a white-out storm shortly after celebrating our FA of Central Chimney. Hours later, we were reunited back at our tent. We continued our fortunes over the next three weekends, establishing more incredible routes that seemed to be pure luck and timing in a range that is well-known for epics and horrible weather.

Mulkey climbing Tapout, North Fork Valley. Photo by Tyson Bednarz
As the mountain snows got deeper, we began hunting back in the shadows of the desserts of Wyoming, where timing and luck once again followed our efforts. Every year, I feel so lucky to have such incredible partners that continue to allow me to lead them blindly into the unknown. Doug has certainly been one of those partners who has been infused with the addiction to explore, logging numerous hours behind the windshield between Fort Collins, Colorado, and Cody, Wyoming. The last few months have been incredibly motivating with great friends and partners fueling my tank to explore, and I can only imagine what the next couple months of spring hunts will bring!
Doug and I took a break from adventures to raise money for our good friend Echo Oak who was recently injured in a 200-foot-plus fall and survived. We decided to climb for 24 hours straight in the South Fork Valley to attempt as many routes/pitches as possible. Starting at noon on February 19 and ending at noon on February 20, we were able to climb 21 pitches and survive a massive ice and snow avalanche that barreled over our heads at 1 a.m. on the climb Moonrise. The full moon of the evening was never enjoyed as we were pounded all night in 0-degree temps and six to eight inches of snow through the night. Raising more than $4,000, we decided it was obviously all priceless as we got back to town and saw the smile on our friend Echo's face.

Thanks to all my incredible partners who make these routes possible and follow me in blind faith!

This season's new routes so far:

Central Chimney (V WI4 M6R, 2200') Aaron Mulkey/Doug Shepherd
Funeral for Another Friend (IV WI4 M6+, 1,200') Aaron Mulkey/Doug Shepherd/Daniel Burson
Ice Fairies (WI5, 600') Aaron Mulkey/Doug Shepherd
Talk is Cheep (WI6 M7R, 40m) Aaron Mulkey/Tanner Calender/Chris Guyer
Tapout (WI5+, 45m) Aaron Mulkey/Tanner Calender/Chris Guyer
Just a Fad (WI5, 60m) Chris Guyer/Aaron Mulkey/Tanner Calender
Knights of The Round Table (WI5, 60m) Aaron Mulkey/Tanner Calender/ Chris Guyer
Mummy Joe (WI4+, 20m) Hillary Eisen/Aaron Mulkey/ Doug Shepherd
Splitsville (WI4 M6R, 240m) Aaron Mulkey/Rachel Gadys
Lunch Meat (WI4 30m) Stephen Berwanger/ Aaron Mulkey
StringTease (WI5 40m) Stephen Berwanger/ Aaron Mulkey
Dutch Rudder ( WI5+ 100M) Aaron Mulkey/ Tanner Calender
Dates of ascents: October 2010 through March 25

Click for Climbing.com Article

The Regulators Episode 5- Loaded Gun

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Tue, 22 Feb 2011 13:18:00 PST

The Regulators 5- The Hunt from Aaron Mulkey on Vimeo.

24 Hours Of Cody

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Tue, 08 Feb 2011 21:04:00 PST

Many people have heard the amazing story of my friend Echo Oak's ice climbing accident in the South Fork Valley on January 15. After falling over 200 feet and then surviving a night outside, in freezing temperatures, without shelter, Echo is out of the hospital and on the road to recovery. However, her medical bills are bound to be bigger than the fall she took and the road to recovery is long.

The world class South Fork Valley located outside Cody, Wy is well known for its difficult approaches and steep unrelenting pitches of incredible ice climbing. In an effort to raise money for Echo Oaks recovery Doug Shepherd and Aaron Mulkey propose the unimaginable. They will climb as many pitches/routes as possible in 24 hours starting Saturday February 19th at noon until February 20 at noon. Climbing through the night the two will accomplish an amazing physical and mental conquest. Please come to the South Fork Ice Festival to support the conquest and cheer them on as they set out to climb for 24 hours in one of North Americas toughest climbing areas. If your not able to make the event please see below for other ways to support the Fundrasing Event.

There will be three ways to support their efforts to raise money for Echos Recovery Fund.

1. Sponsor each pitch they climb with a dollar amount. Such as 10 dollars for every pitch they climb during the 24 hour period. You can either do this friday night of the festival or email me your per pitch sponsor at coldfearwy(@)gmail.com. When the event is over we will send an email to you with our total pitch count and you can cut a check for our efforts to be given to the Echo Oak Recovery Fund.

2. Attend the South Fork Ice Festival on Saturday night and bid on your predicted number of pitches they will complete during the 24 hour period. These numbers will be auctioned off during a Calcutta style auction. For all of you gamblers you will like this, A certain amount of numbers will be auctioned off (such as 10-30). The number you bid on will be the maximum amount of pitches you think Doug and Aaron will complete in 24 hours. The highest bidder wins the number. All money received from the auctioning of numbers will be put into a pot and if your number matches the maximum number of pitches they complete in the 24 hours then you win 25% of the pot and the rest goes to the Echo Oak Recovery Fund. Make Sense ? We will go over the details at the Festival.

3. You can simply send a donation to support them raising money with a check made out to " Echo Oak Recovery Fund" and mail to 16 rock street Cody, Wy 82414

All Proceeds Will Go To The Echo Oak Recovery Fund

There will more information and opportunities available to support the fundraising event during the South Fork Ice Festival February 18-21. Special Thanks to Cilogear, Black Diamond and Rab for supporting the event and providing some gear to raise money.

The Regulators Episode 4- Going With The Flow

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Mon, 31 Jan 2011 20:02:00 PST

The Regulators 4 - Going with the flow from Aaron Mulkey on Vimeo.

2011 Ouray Ice Festival Competition Video!

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Tue, 25 Jan 2011 19:28:00 PST

Aaron Mulkey 2011 Ouray Competition from Aaron Mulkey on Vimeo.

Ouray Starting Lineup!

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Fri, 07 Jan 2011 16:08:00 PST

Well here we go......

All of the training and climbing and my biggest worry is my nerves. I will try to represent well for Wyoming!

Starting lineup for the Ouray Ice festival Comp

Mulkey on the Rocks

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Mon, 03 Jan 2011 17:45:00 PST

Spent 5 days in Ouray scratching, falling, hooking, flailing and being incredibly cold and only touched one piece of ice. I know your asking why and how?

Me wondering if fruit boots would make this any easier

Well I recently got an invite to compete at the Ouray Ice Festival and as many of you know I spend most of my time on ice so I knew I needed to get to Ouray and spend some time on the rock.

Unfortunately the weather did not work with us as the day time temps were rarely in the double digits. Local hardman and women Patrick Ormond and Dawn Glanc took me to some of the local cragin spots. Needles to say climbing overhanging rock in down jackets was not the most exciting part of the trip.

Kevin Craig enduring the conditions...
The first day I got there it snowed a ton so we spent a small part of the day on ice.

Dawn Glanc climbing the Industrial Cave

Dawn Glanc climbing while the rest of us huddle around a fire to keep warm. This day was more about suffering then climbing but the good ol Wyoming fire sure helped.

The good town of Ouray, Colorado

Dawn Glanc showing me how its done

Me airin out in the cave. Dawn told me I need to use my feet better! ha

By the end of the trip I felt better about taking falls with sharp objects (not sure this is good) and managed to NOT get my feet in any fruit boots. Wish me luck this coming weekend and I appreciate everyones support and motivation.

Not a lack of climbing

noreply@blogger.com (Aaron Mulkey) — Thu, 30 Dec 2010 19:20:00 PST

You cant see but that is a huge grin on my face! gotta luv Ice Fest

Its been an amazing month and continues to only get better. The lack of blog post= Lots of climbing with the incredible wolf pack posse. I will have many updates to come and almost done with the next episode of "The Regulators" but for now I will leave you with a few pics of the past few days of climbing.
A great day for training in Ouray yesterday!

Kevin Craig on 2nd pitch of Chockstone

Im here in Ouray training to become a mix climber for the competition in a little over a week so I will try to make some daily posts to follow my mental beatings!

Happy New Year!