secondhelping

Still here…

appetite — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 10:16:06 +0000

It’s been a while – I know.

But I am still here.

Still eating. Still cooking. Still wanting more.

I could tell you that a lot has been happening:

An exciting new job for yours truly

Some fun and food filled travel

But none of that is really any excuse for letting you and my little blog languish.

I hope you stay with me.

A feast of blog updates is in the making.

Whet your appetites. They are not far away.
_

I hope you still want a little bit more.

International Incident Party ~ Prawn Tacos and Shredded Beef Tacos

appetite — Sun, 18 Jul 2010 01:31:55 +0000

Welcome to another International Incident Party! This time we head to Mexico and celebrate with with what is usually most people’s introduction to Mexican food – the taco.

But what exactly is a taco? When a tortilla is filled and folded in two, it is a called a taco. The corn tortilla has been around since before the conquest of Mexico. It formed an important part of the daily diet of both kings and workers in pre-hispanic Mexico. Today wheat tortillas are nearly as common as corn ones and the taco is a well known and loved street food.

To many people, a taco is a corn tortilla bent in half to form a deep U shape, then fried crisp and stuffed to overflowing with minced beef, shredded iceberg lettuce, sliced tomato, and grated cheese. You’ve seen them in Tex-Mex fast food franchises like Taco Bell and in the pre-packaged kits in the supermarket. Throughout Mexico, however the simple taco consumed by millions of people daily is a fresh, hot, often soft tortilla rolled or folded around some slow cooked shredded meat or mashed beans or seafood and liberally doused with any one of the endless variety of sauces for which Mexico is justly famed, but which are sadly misrepresented in favour of the Tex-Mex variety. Tacos are usually eaten as a snack between meals, in the evening with a bowl of soup for supper, or as an entrée before the main meal of the day. I have steered away from the Tex-Mex style and gone for two fillings that have a Baja California influence.

Prawn tacos with jicama slaw

Tacos

32 green medium king prawns, peeled and cleaned
1 tsp each ground cumin, ground allspice and chilli powder
2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 small red onion, finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
2 vine-ripened tomatoes, peeled, seeded and finely chopped
1 lime, juiced
¼ cup coarsely chopped coriander
To serve: tortillas (I used wheat but corn would be fine), avocado sliced into wedges, limes and sour cream

Jicama slaw

1 (285gm) jicama, peeled and cut into julienne
1 baby cos, finely shredded
1 fresh green serrano or other long green chilli, seeded and thinly sliced
1/3 cup finely chopped coriander
1 lime, juiced
¼ cup vegetable oil
¼ tsp chilli powder

Place prawns, cumin, allspice, ½ tsp chilli powder and 2 tbsp oil in a glass bowl, season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper and stir to combine. Cover and refrigerate for 10 minutes.

For jicama slaw, place jicama, cos, green chilli and coriander in a bowl, season to taste and stir to combine. Add dressing to jicama mixture and toss gently.

Heat 2 tbsp oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan, add onion, garlic, tomatoes, lime juice and remaining chilli powder and cook over medium heat for 5 minutes or until soft, then season to taste.

Barbecue or char-grill prawns for 4-5 minutes or until cooked through, then transfer to tomato mixture, add coriander and stir to combine. Barbecue or char-grill tortillas, for 30 seconds on each side or until just warm and lightly golden, then transfer to a plate and cover with a tea towel to keep warm.

Serve warm tortillas, prawn and tomato mixture, jicama slaw, avocado, lime halves and sour cream separately for everyone to assemble their own tacos.

Shredded Beef Tacos

800 gm beef brisket or chuck, cut into 5cm pieces
1 onion, thinly sliced
3 cloves of garlic
¼ cup lard or vegetable oil
480 gm (about 3) vine-ripened tomatoes, roasted, peeled and chopped
2 green onions, thinly sliced
1 tsp chilli powder
1 long green chilli, thinly sliced

Place beef in a large saucepan, add enought water to cover, add 1 tsp sea salt and bring to the boil over medium high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer for 5 minutes, skimming scum from surface. Add half the onion and half a clove of garlic to pan, partially cover and simmer for 3 hours or until meat is tender. Remove meat from broth, reserving broth, and finely shred using two forks.

Finely chop remaining garlic and set aside. Heat lard over medium heat in a large heavy-based frying pan, add beef and remaining onion and sauté for 5 minutes or until onion is soft and beef browns slightly. Add garlic, tomato, green onion, chilli powder and green chilli and cook for 2 minutes or until tomato softens. Add 180ml of reserved broth and cook for 10-15 minutes or until liquid is reduced by half. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Serve spooned into warm tortillas.

Wheat Tortillas

Makes 20
3 cups bread flour
120 gm lard

Place flour in a large bowl, add lard and, using fingertips, rub until combined, then make a well in the centre. Combine 1 tsp sea salt with 1 cup water, pour into well and mix until combined. Knead on a lightly floured surface until smooth and elastic, cover with plastic wrap and stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Heat a hotplate or large heavy-based frying pan over low heat. Roll tablespoons of dough into 1mm-2mm-thick, 15cm-diameter circles and cook, in batches, for 1-2 minutes each side or until just coloured. Cover with a tea towel to keep warm.

Don’t forget to check out what the rest of the crew has made:

Happy Bastille Day ~ Vive le France!

appetite — Wed, 14 Jul 2010 09:15:07 +0000

Bastille Day is a national holiday in France and celebrates the storming of the Paris bastille in 1789 an event that changed France forever. Although it had little practical use, it represented a popular uprising against what was viewed as an oppressive institution. A major catalyst in the French Revolution it saw the birth of the republic and the end of the monarchy. In France no-one works, elsewhere Francophiles around the world have celebrations of their own in homage to french history and culture.

This Francophile thought it would be nice to share with you my top ten favourite French epicurean delights, in no particular order:

The Billecart Salmon Rosé Champagne

There are few pleasures in life better than rosé champagne, and this is my unequivocal favourite. A delicate salmon-pink in colour it has an intense flowery bouquet and vibrant fruit flavours from strawberry through to citrus. It has a wonderful palate from a lush creamy start through the fine bubbles to a lingering finish that has slight minerality and is dry but not overly. If you want to make me happy, give me a bottle of this. Or maybe two.

The Soufflé

A dish that scares even the best of cooks, the perfect soufflé is something to get excited about. I like both the savoury and sweet versions, but don’t bother giving me a twice cooked one. To me, it’s not the real deal. The best sweet soufflé I have had the pleasure of eating was a raspberry one at Vue de Monde. The best savoury version, I am pleased to say is one I made myself: a gruyere soufflé with a Riesling sauce.

The Cheese

It would have been ridiculously easy for me to make this top ten list ALL cheese, so long is the list of ones that I can’t help but want more of: Roquefort, Munster, Raclette, Neufchatel…. I’m the kind of girl who instead of checking the dessert menu before she orders dinner, finds out what’s on the cheese plate.

The Baguettes

The crust should be golden, even and crunchy. The interior or mie as the French call it, should be airy, even holey. The mie should not stick to your fingers or to your mouth. The good (or bad, depending on how you look at it) thing is baguettes do not store, they are made to be bought and eaten that day.

The amuse bouche

An amuse-bouche is a single, bite-sized hors d’œuvre. It means to “amuse the mouth”. Regular readers may be aware that I am more than a little partial to bite size morsels of nom that amuse my mouth. Amuse-bouche are different from appetisers in that they are not ordered from a menu by patrons, but, when served, are done so according to the chef’s selection alone.

The Boeuf bourguignon

One of the first French dishes I mastered and didn’t I feel clever when I did! The version I first cooked was out of the Women’s Weekly Basic Cookbook which my Mum bought for me when I first moved out of home. These days when I make “beef burgundy” it is from my head which is no doubt an amalgam of the many recipes I have read since, with my own touches added in for good measure.

The Aperitif

The Aperitif is a before-dinner drink to stimulate the appetite. I cannot claim that my appetite has truly ever needed stimulating, but since most aperitifs were originally produced for medicinal purposes surely this is justification enough? Pastis is an anise flavoured aperitif. It gained popularity after the whole absinthe wormwood debacle and ban. Serve it to me in summer, over ice and diluted with water and I will play pétanque and say Santé!

The Duck confit

To make confit de canard the duck is cured for 24 hours with salt and seasonings such as garlic, thyme, and nutmeg before having the salt washed off and being cooked very slowly covered in a lot, I mean a LOT of duck fat. When it comes out of the fat it may not look too appetising but you are but minutes away from something truly delicious. All you need do is crisp the skin under a hot grill. Or you could add it to the next on my list

The Cassoulet

From the Languedoc region of France, this is a traditional slow cooked stew of haricot beans, and a variety of meats including Toulouse sausages, confit duck legs and pork with a gratin topping. It is a winter must. If you cannot find the time or energy to make it, go somewhere that does.

The Gougère

Heavenly little cheese puffs of pâté a choux. It’s my cheese fetish rearing it’s head again! Choux pastry is perhaps more commonly associated with éclairs: stuffed with cream and drizzled with chocolate but I prefer it this way with loads of gruyere folded in.

Apologies to Bouillabaise, French Onion Soup, Perigord truffles, Croissants and Steak et frites – you all deserved to be on the list too! I have enjoyed you all many a time.

A question for you to ponder that my dear friend L brought up whilst we were shopping today. If we can no longer call Australian bubbly “Champagne” why is it we can still buy “Champagne Ham” from almost every supermarket and deli in town?

EARL Canteen ~ a crazy sandwich adventure

appetite — Mon, 12 Jul 2010 08:25:38 +0000

__________

I thought I was going to be the last food blogger in Melbourne to make it into EARL Canteen. Sadly unable to attend the launch and since their opening in early May I had been tortured on an almost daily basis with tweets and blog posts and reviews all extolling the wonders of this clever little canteen that found a niche and filled a need we didn’t know we had. Thankfully they did.

“They” is Jackie Middleton and Simon O’Regan. You’ll see them when you walk in, smiling in welcome. Like the rest of their staff. The perfect professional level of friendly and approachable. This is a part of their brand that they built up before the doors had even opened. You see EARL Canteen cleverly uses social media, Twitter in particular, to gain exposure and loyalty. It is never overwhelming or spam like. In the lead up it was genuine and relevant – sneak peaks of how the fit out was going, tid bits of insight into the menu planning and recipe testing. They had the Twitterverse waiting in eager anticipation for the doors to open.

Since then they have stuck with this approach to marketing and, I think, to great effect. Using it to promote endorsements from customers – from retweets of those who had just been in for lunch to links (with thanks) to blog posts and mainstream media reviews. Pretty soon some menu items began to acquire an almost cult status as the online word spread:

RT @bookshopaddict: @EARLCanteen I think the boudin blanc baguette is the cool indie band answer to the stadium rock of the pork sandwich

It helps in no little way that they have, in equal measures, a great philosophy and great passion. They care about where the food comes from and how they serve it to you. The same level of care is given to the balance and creativity in the menu. I related immediately to their story of being hungry waiters who saw chefs create quick snacks from restaurant meals wedged between some bread. I did that too in my long ago waitressing days.

I had several failed attempts at getting to EARL. None of them made any easier for me given I do not work in the CBD and couldn’t just pop in. The first time I wanted to go I got sick. The second time I had planned to make the trip in I had to stay home and wait for a tradesman who waited until the very end of the day to show up. The third time I was meant to have a little lunch with the girls and it got cancelled. It seemed crazy that it was such an ordeal. But I did get there, and I have been back.

My first visit was at the height of the Pork Belly sandwich craze, so it was impossible to order anything else. It was selling out daily and there wasn’t a blog or tweet or review I read that didn’t pay homage. I had to know what everyone was raving about and why That Jess Ho had renamed it the “Sex Sandwich”. As it turned out they were all right. It is amazing. From the perfect salty crunch of the crackling to the chunks of succulent meat each mouthful of the Otway pork that took all night to cook is a decadent delight. It is served in a Dench baguette with apple, cabbage and fennel coleslaw and wilted silverbeet and is $13.50.

Pork Belly Sandwich

My lunch companion couldn’t pass it up either which was disappointing as it meant I didn’t get to try another sandwich, but I could hardly blame her. We did have some of the seasonal salads $9.50 for a large plate or $6.50 for the small. The cabbage pomegranate and parmesan one was simple but sublime.

Seasonal Salads

On my next visit I had the Sticky Lamb $16. Tender braised lamb with peas and a cauliflower cheese crumble. I was not disappointed. I am rather fond of cauliflower in any form and thought having it in a crusty baguette a damn fine idea.

Sticky Lamb

My lunch companion on this occasion couldn’t resist the lure of the pork belly, so my hopes of trying another sandwich, the newly added (boudin blanc) Sausage and the Egg $14 for example, were again thwarted. So I decided on a different plan of attack. If I cannot try more now, who’s to stop me eating it later. The new wagyu and ratatouille sausage roll $8.50 and a salted caramel macaron – for “later” were popped into bags and off I went. The sausage roll (which you can also get with soup for $12) made it to “later” but the macaron, consumed very soon after departure, alas did not!

Wagyu and ratatouille sausage roll

Salted caramel macaron

What to expect at EARL? Expect sandwiches with fillings that are local, seasonal, sustainable and ethically raised. Expect to wait (only a little!) while they make it to order. Expect a modern minimalist interior (with blogger friendly lighting!). Expect good coffee. And most of all; like their journey from idea to opening, and my ordeal in getting there, expect (in their words) a crazy sandwich adventure.

Earl Canteen
500 Bourke, Lt Bourke St courtyard
(03) 9600 1995
Hours: Mon-Fri 7.30am–5pm

It’s the big one!

appetite — Sun, 11 Jul 2010 06:51:34 +0000

Viva Espana! They are still dancing on the streets in Madrid, celebrating the nation’s first ever World Cup victory. Can they make it a double and win here too? That is up to you.

The Culinary World Cup of Food Final will be contested between Spain and Japan!

To help you decide I have ditched the beers and gone instead with the more obvious drinking matches: if you choose Spain you will now be voting for Paella and Sangria and for Japan it is Sushi and Sake. Before we get to the voting, I thought we should learn a little bit more about these famous dishes.

Paella and Sangria

________

The original paella was considered a poor man’s fare, and was usually made with a little bit of whatever was on hand. Today, it has become one of Spain’s most popular and best-loved dishes. Paella takes its name from “paella” – the Valencian word for pan, and the meal takes its name from the dish in which it is cooked. “La Paella” is a circular and shallow pan with two round handles and a flat base traditionally made of iron.

During the centuries following the introduction of rice to Spain by the Moors, the peasants of Valencia would use the paella pan to cook rice with readily available ingredients from the countryside: tomatoes, onions and snails. On special occasions the dish may include rabbit or duck, and the more well off Valencians might add chicken. Little by little this “Valencian rice” became more widely known. By the end of the nineteenth century “paella valenciana” had established itself and was well known throughout Spain. Seafood was not originally used in paella dishes, as it was difficult to get hold of in the fields of Valencia, and snails were the cheapest meat option available at the time. It was not until other regions began to add their own twists to the dish that fish, seafood and pork were added.

Paella is really a Sunday dish eaten when the whole family is together. It is best cooked outside over an open wood fire and traditionally made by men. Often cooked in large quantities, paella still tastes as good the day after cooking, and can be enjoyed cold on picnics or heated up when required. The cooking of the perfect paella can be quite a laborious task, and all Spanish households have an expert on the art of paella making, although opinions on the best ingredients to use often differ from region to region. As a result cooking paella is quite a personal task and there are no hard and fast rules where ingredients are concerned. The basic way to cook paella is to stirf fry the meat (if using) then the vegetables in olive oil. Then add water, bring to the boil, and leave for half an hour or so. After checking the flavour and seasoning if needed, the rice is added. Calasparra (real paella) rice is never stir-fried in oil, as pilaf or risotto. Once the rice is nearly done, the paella is removed from the heat and left to absorb the remaining water. Traditional paella has a crispy, caramelized, toasted bottom (called socarrat in Valencian) that is considered a delicacy. To achieve a socarrat, you only need to turn up the heat to high and listen to the bottom of the rice toast. Once the aroma of toasted rice comes from the pan, the heat is removed once again. The paella is ready to be served after having cooled for several minutes. For a seafood paella, the fish needs to be cooked for a much shorter time than the meat, as it is easy to overcook white fish and squid.

There are several different varieties of paella available. Most in addition to the main meat or fish ingredients add peppers, tomatoes, onions and green beans.

Paella Valenciana is the original paella made with chicken, pork and/or rabbit.
Paella Marisco is made with prawns, mussels, squid and often white fish.
Paella Mixta is made with fish and meat.
Paella Vegetal or Vegetariana is the most recently introduced version of this famous dish, and made only with vegetables.
Paella Negra is an interesting version, and contains seafood cooked in squid ink, which turns the rice black.
Paella Fideus is made with fine pasta instead of rice.

The perfect accompaniment for paella is a jug of cool, fruity sangria. The real origins of this drink seem to be unknown, but it is undoubtedly one of Andalucia´s most popular refreshments – particularly in the summer months. Every restaurant has its own sangria recipe, but the drink typically includes red wine, brandy and fruit, with plenty of ice in the jug – although this is open to experimentation and personal taste always comes into it. Fruit juice or casera is often added to dilute the mix, and liqueurs such as 43 or cointreau also complement this popular drink. A white wine version is also popular and known as sangria blanco, and a sparkling version can be made with cava.

Sushi and Sake

________

The basic concept of fish preparation in Japan is suggested by a proverb that essentially says: It is felt that the taste and texture of fish is best appreciated when it is very fresh and eaten raw. If the fish is a little less than fresh then its best taste will be produced by sprinkling it with salt and grilling it. Finally, if the fish is not fresh, then it is better boiled with seasonings, such as soy sauce or soybean paste (miso).

Sushi originated in the 7th century as a means of preserving fish by fermenting it in boiled rice. Fish that are salted and placed in rice are preserved by lactic acid fermentation, which prevents proliferation of the bacteria that bring about putrefaction. A souring of flavor occurs during the process, and the fish is eaten only after the sticky decomposed rice has been cleaned off. This older type of sushi is still produced in the areas surrounding Lake Biwa in western Japan, and similar types are also known in Korea, southwestern China, and Southeast Asia.

A unique fifteenth-century development shortened the fermentation period of sushi to one or two weeks and made both the fish and the rice edible. As a result, sushi became a popular snack food, combining fish with the traditional staple food, rice. Sushi without fermentaion appeared during the Edo period (1600-1867), and sushi was finally united with sashimi at the end of the eighteenth century, when the hand-rolled type, nigiri-sushi, was devised. Various styles of hand-rolled sushi were developed, such as norimaki, in which vinegar-flavored rice and seasoned boiled vegetables are rolled in paper-thin layers. The establishment of sushi restaurants that offered seasonings and different toppings according to the taste of the guest changed the dish from its original character as a preserved food to the somewhat strange dichotomy of being both a fast food and a culinary art form. The Itamae-San (expert sushi chef) has also seen change as demand for his/her craft has grown. Years ago, one could not practice this art form without a minimum of 10 years of training and proven skill. Now, due to the growing need, restaurants will hire Sushi chefs with just a few years of learning experience. But Sushi is about culinary expertise and an Itamae-San continually strives to master his/her skill while performing for the delight of the patron and serving an array of bright colors, mouthwatering tastes and tingling sensations.

In Japanese, the word sake can mean any alcoholic beverage. But in English, people generally use it to mean a specific type of rice alcohol, also known as Nihonshu. I will stick with calling it sake. It is a special sort of drink that is neither wine nor beer and also not really a spirit. In ancient Japan sake was used as a sacred alcohol at religious ceremonies by select nobles. Later consumption spread to the general public and was consumed at special Shinto occasions such as new year, weddings, festivals and funerals. Today sake is enjoyed by anyone and can be served warm, room temperature or chilled. Sake is usually drunk from small cups called choko and poured into the choko from ceramic flasks called tokkuri. Toji is the job title of the sake brewer. It is a highly respected job in Japanese society with toji being regarded a little like musicians or painters. The title of toji was historically passed on from father to son; today new toji are either veteran brewery workers or are trained at universities. There are two basic types of sake: futsu-shu “ordinary sake” which is the equivalent of table wine and tokutei meisho-shu “special designation sake” premium sakes distinguished by the degree to which the rice is polished and the added percentage of brewer’s alcohol or the absence of such additives.

Time now to vote! Thanks to all who have followed my little competition, it’s been a bit of fun.

Culinary World Cup? It’s Semi Finals time!

appetite — Sat, 10 Jul 2010 06:17:12 +0000

The excitement is steadily building. Are we headed for the same winner here as in South Africa? Will the love of raw fish triumph over a meaty savoury custard? Who will emerge victorious in the slow cooked mediterannean head to head?

For these and answers to all the other mindless questions that have been invading your headspace this week stay tuned as Beer’n'Bites (thanks Injera!) plunges head first into the Semi Finals. Don’t forget, you only have 24 hours to vote before the finalists are revealed.

Semi Final One – Japan vs South Africa

Can you picture yourself sipping on a Sapporo, that fine lager with a refreshing flavour and moderately light body whilst you select a piece of sushi – perfectly vinegared rice topped with just-out-of-the-sea-fresh seafood…

… or are you more likely to reach for seconds if you are given a full flavoured and thirst quenching Castle Lager and some pleasingly spiced, slightly sweet Bobotie?

_________________

Semi Final Tw0 – France vs Spain

Which sends you closer to food heaven? Cassoulet’s depth of flavour from slow cooked beans, garlicky Toulouse sausages and rich tomato washed down with the crisp slightly bitter pilsner that is Kronenbourg…

… or perhaps you prefer the smooth taste of Mahou and like scraping the crust on the bottom of the paelleria, enjoying the slightly smoky grains of rice, swollen with stock and scented with saffron? _

________________

Culinary World Cup Quarter Finals!

appetite — Fri, 09 Jul 2010 04:59:39 +0000

OOPS! The World Cup Final is but days away and I haven’t made it through the Quarter Finals yet. I may still be recovering from my foray into porridge consumption.

So, in a supreme effort to get us there in time, today will be the Quarter Finals with 24 hours to vote. Tomorrow will be the Semis – again with 24 hours, and finally, just in time for kickoff for the game between Spain and the Netherlands the Second Helping Culinary & Beer World Cup Final will be posted on Sunday. Now, without further ado…

Quarter Final 1 – Japan vs Brazil

_________

Quarter Final 2- South Africa vs Ghana

___________

Quarter Final 3 – Australia vs France

___________

Quarter Final 4- Italy vs Spain

_________

Vanilla poached quince: or ‘How I tried to eat porridge and failed’

appetite — Mon, 05 Jul 2010 07:59:58 +0000

Quince - the "golden apple"

Quinces – not really attractive to look at are they? Sort of the fatter, uglier sister of the pear. They are one of those old fashioned fruits that play hard to get, they cannot be eaten raw but will reward a patient cook. Their true flavour is only revealed in the kitchen, yet powerful unique fragrance of quince is detectable either fresh or being cooked.

Maggie Beer may have recently restored the quince to our culinary consciousness with her famous paste, but these “golden apples” have figured prominently in classic legends since ancient times:

They are thought to be the forbidden fruit in the Garden of Eden,
Paris gave one to Aphrodite
Venus is often depicted with a quince in her right hand
Sacred to the Greeks and Romans, the fruit is regarded as the symbol of love and happiness
The eleventh labour of Hercules was to return with golden apples
Even “The Owl and the Pussycat”¹ got in on the act;

They dined on mince and slices of quince,
Which they ate with a runcible spoon;
And hand in hand on the edge of the sand
They danced by the light of the moon.

Now that winter has really dug it’s heels in, café breakfast menus are full of warming of winter dishes and it seems that every local blogger I follow has been espousing the delights of porridge. I have never liked porridge but thought if it was topped with some slowly poached quince I might be convinced.

Ready to simmer

The whole fruit needs to be peeled and cut into large pieces with the hard core removed then slowly simmered in water for several hours (I let mine go for 3 hours which was perhaps too long) until it becomes soft and changes colour to a ruby red. The slower and longer it cooks the stronger the colour. To my poaching water I added vanilla bean, cinnamon quill and some caster sugar. Allow the quince to cool in the poaching liquid which by now should be a lovely syrup. Then try it with porridge.

Porridge or papier mache?

Hmm. Still seems a lot like a bowl of wallpaper paste to me. It will take more than a runcible spoon to get me wanting more. I am far more inspired to do some papier mâché than dig in and eat. The quince is good though, I am only able to struggle through a few mouthfuls if they are more quince than porridge. All is not lost though. The Beloved is fond of his porridge and thinks having poached quince for it is a grand idea.

¹by Edward Lear

Monk & Me

appetite — Thu, 01 Jul 2010 02:26:40 +0000

Monk & Me dining room

Hidden away in small lane that you’d have to walk past to know about, Monk & Me is a groovy Malaysian restaurant and a most welcome addition to the same-same culinary landscape of Camberwell, although I think strictly speaking this pocket near the Rivoli Cinema is called Hawthorn East. It is from the Simon Goh stable – think Chinta Ria in Melbourne, Temple of Love in Sydney. With jazz music in the background (I noticed that you can still buy the once very popular Hot Food Cool Jazz) and Zen like decor, it clearly reflects Simon Goh’s passion for music and relaxed personal style. The unusual name is both a metaphor for the theme of a person’s spiritual journey and a nod to one of Simon Goh’s jazz heroes, Theolonius Monk.

The menu is comprehensive with some modern twists on traditional Malay and Nyonya fare, but no big surprises. On the drinks front there is a nice range of cocktails which you could enjoy whilst perched at the bar, a standard offering in the way of local and imported beers and a small but fairly well balanced wine list with some nice aromatic whites chosen to complement the food. BYO wine and champagne is also possible for $6 corkage. We took our normal approach and shared a few dishes and sides. I had been playing with the settings on my camera, so I apologise for the shoddy photography.

Lohbak - 2 per serve 8.0

From a selection of eight entrees, including favourites like satay, we chose Lohbak. These were served with a chilli dipping sauce. Fried to perfection the minced chicken filling was moist and full of flavour from the subtle five spice seasoning and the bean curd skin was crisp and crunchy

Nyonya Fish 29.0

This dish was a bit of a let down. Seafood is a big focus, and by far the largest section, on the menu so I had high expectations. The steamed barramundi was cooked nicely but the “spicy nyonya sauce” was lacking. I could pick the belachan but found the sauce too sweet, without enough spice or zest to balance it. Previously we have had the Assam Fish and been really impressed, so I was quite surprised that this didn’t hit the mark. Having said that The Beloved disagreed with me and happily devoured it.

Beef Rendang 21.5

From so-so to whoa! This classically typical Malaysian dish had tender chunks of beef, a great taste of coconut, balanced with the robust, tangy spices you expect. I could have just eaten this and been very satisified!

It went wonderfully when mopped up with the crispy flaky Roti Canai 3.0. Add a side of Steamed Vegetables 6.5 and some Steamed Rice 2.0 and we had a well rounded meal.

It’s nice to have a local restaurant that is your go to place for both when you want to eat out and when all you need is to grab something to have at home. We have done both on more than one occasion. Monk & Me fits that bill perfectly, has a comfortable yet slightly up market environment and efficient friendly service. Every time we have been it has been busy, with everything from large group to families and couples. They recognise this and consequently the menu tries to cater for everyone, with 3 banquets (including one vegetarian) and a special range of options for the under 12s that are a bit gentler on the spice scale.

In short, we’ll be back. Probably soon as writing this has me in need of a laksa!

Beer vs Beer, Dish vs Dish ~ it’s the second round of my culinary world cup.

appetite — Wed, 30 Jun 2010 01:39:01 +0000

Well, how are you going with the World Cup 2010?

Are you one of the sleep deprived who sets the alarm for ungodly hours to watch each game? Or are you like me, and once your team is out, you are content with the highlights package, watching Santo, Sam and Ed’s Cup Fever and perusing the reportage in the media? Maybe you have completely ignored the (apparently contentious) round ball and focused instead on the important things like food and the national dishes and beers of the countries that you would most like to consume.

Whatever you have been doing, we are now up to the second round of my culinary world cup. As with the world game, it is sudden death and only four dishes and beers will make it through to the quarter finals. It doesn’t matter if you haven’t voted previously, you can join in at any time.

Results from the group stage in both Cups have been mixed – some countries have been clear winners, others have seen hot competition. Here is how it has panned out and the ‘matches’ to vote in this time around:

Match One

South Africa

Beer: Castle Lager
Notes: Likened to Australia’s VB Castle Lager is faring better here than the host nation did in the Group stage. If nothing else South Africa has left its mark on the World Cup through the introduction to the billions of us watching of the vuvuzela. There is now a vuvuzela iPhone app, a song (look for it on iTunes) and a button on You Tube.

National Dish: Bobotie
Notes: This Cape Malay dish is a pleasingly spiced, slightly sweet dish with a very light curry flavour. No self respecting South African housewife would be without a recipe for this traditional dish. I have had Bobotie at Rusk, a restaurant in Melbourne run by ex-pat South African Lance Rosen, and thoroughly enjoyed it. Lance is putting on a special World Cup Dinner on July 10th featuring South African dishes. Maybe he’ll include this.

Nigeria

Beer: Star
Notes: This was the first beer ever brewed in Nigeria and proud of it’s achievements. So much so that they are listed on the website: STAR was there when Nigeria celebrated its independence in 1960. STAR was there when Nigeria hosted and won the African Cup of Nations in 1980. STAR was there when Nigeria won its first Olympic gold medal in football in 1996. STAR was there for us to celebrate the first African-American President in 2009. Will it be there for the Culinary World Cup quarter finals?

National Dish: Isu – spiced boiled yams
Notes: In Nigeria yams are eaten in place of potatoes and are an important part of the diet. Here they are cooked with cayenne pepper, garlic and cinnamon.

Match Two

Slovenia

Beer: Lasko Pivo

Notes: Big beer rivalry in Slovenia between Lasko and Union. From what I have read loyalty for one’s beer is akin to supporting an AFL team in Australia, a baseball team in the USA or your soccer team in the UK. Beware the fool who orders a Union in a Lasko pub! I loved a review of Lasko that described it as “kick ass and so smooth” so I have jumped on its bandwagon.

National Dish: Ajdovi zganci

Notes: Far easier to identify this, than to pronounce it. It is similar to polenta and has very simple ingredients – buckwheat flour, water, salt, cracklings and oil or grease. It can be served at any meal, boiled for brekkie or lunch, or toasted for dinner.

Ghana

Beer: Gulder Lager

Notes: The African beer market is a bit hard to sort out. I discovered that Nigeria brew virtually the same beers as Ghana and several other countries. Anyway, this is a euro style pale lager that most people think is drinkable but a bit of a non-event. Far more interesting is the reality TV show that Gulder is the naming sponsor for, “Gulder Ultimate Search”. Based on the fable of the Horn of Valour, a group of contestants follow the hunters’ trail to find a magnificently crafted golden horn.

National Dish: Hkatenkwan – Groundnut Stew

Notes: Also called groundnut chop. Groundnut is the popular African word for peanut. Here peanut butter is mixed with chicken, onions, carrots, hot peppers and rice to make this crowd pleasing dish

Match Three

Australia

Beer: Coopers Sparkling

Notes: Still Australian owned (thank god), these handcrafted beers have been made in South Australia since 1862 when Thomas Cooper made a batch of beer as a tonic for his sick wife. Hard to go past, but if you need further reason to agree with this choice – just go and taste one. The famous “Cloudy but fine” add campaign for Coopers Sparkling Ale rings true as you your pour this beer into your glass. The traditional Coopers top fermenting and secondary fermenting technique is apparent with the cloudy appearance and the yeast sediment that rains down like snow. Sparkling begins with a solid head and a full bodied flavour with fruity undertones and finishes with a soft effervescent malty taste.

National Dish: Vegemite on toast

Notes: For those unfamiliar with Vegemite, it is a spread made from yeast products. It has a unique and acquired taste and has been a part of Australian life (and your morning toast) for 88 years. According to the vegemite website how you like your vegemite is a very personal choice: There is the Streaker – just a couple of light streaks on the toast, The Nudist – no butter, no marg just vegemite, The Edger – always particular they spread it evenly right to the very edge of there toast, and The Vegecadoer – they adorn their vegemited toast with slivers of avocado.

England

Beer: Tetley’s
Notes: Carlsberg is the official sponsor of the English team, but it didn’t seem right to have a Danish brewer as my pick. So I have gone half way and chosen Tetley’s which started as an English brewery in Leeds in 1822 but is now owned by Carlsberg. In 2006 Tetley’s sold 185 million pints of beer in pubs. This would fill 42 olympic-sized swimming pools.

National Dish: Roast Beef and Yorkshire Puddings
Notes: This selection is in tribute to the tradition of the Sunday roast. I love a good roast beef but have to admit that I am yet to have a Yorkshire pudding. Inspired by resourcefulness, Yorkshire puddings used the dripping from the roasting meat to cook a batter made from egg, flour and milk and make a bread like accompaniment to the meal.

Match Four

Greece

Beer: Mythos

Notes: The first authentically Greek beer is a lager with a rich head, bright blonde colour and a pleasant refreshing taste. Drink the most famous Hellenic beer and ‘create your own “legend” ’ It gets a fairly good wrap from beer forums and reviews.

National Dish: Moussaka

Notes: Moussaka is a casserole made by layering eggplant with a spiced meat filling then topping it off with a creamy bechamel sauce that is baked to golden perfection. Some totally useless trivia – There was a movie released in 1999 called The Attack of the Giant Moussaka. In it the city of Athens is attacked by a terrifying giant moussaka accidentally produced when an ordinary serving of moussaka is hit by a ray sent by an alien space ship.

France

Beer: Kronenbourg 1664.

Notes: The premium beer of Brasseries Kronenbourg brewers since 1664. It is brewed with a unique hop blend including aromatic hops from Alsace. Their website suggests it is “ideal for drinking on a terrace, as an aperitif or simply for the pleasure”

National Dish: Cassoulet (but there were a few contenders)

Notes: Cassoulet originated in the southwest of the country. The name comes from the word “cassolo,” which is an earthenware pot. The ‘Cassoulet de Castelnaudary’ is cooked with white beans, pure pork sausages (such as Toulouse sausages) and duck or goose confit. There are many varieties of this classic dish. Whether it comes from Castelnaudary, Carcassonne or Toulouse the cassoulet must be simmered on top of the stove and then finished in the oven as a gratin.

Match Five

Japan

Beer: Sapporo
Notes: One of three major domestic brands in Japan (alongside Asahi and Kirin), Sapporo has its origins in the late 1800s when a German trained brewmaster made the first Sapporo lager for the then named Kaitakushi Brewery. Today it is widely exported and if in Japan you can visit the Sapporo Beer Museum or do some shopping in the brewery owned shopping mall. Have to love the Japanese.

National Dish: Sushi
Notes: Sushi is vinegared rice topped or mixed with various fresh ingredients, usually fish or sea food. It has become part of the everyday culture and diet of many western countries. There are a few different types: Nigiri-zushi – This is sushi with the ingredients on top of a block of rice. Maki-zushi – Translated as “roll sushi,” this is where rice and seafood or other ingredients are placed on a sheet of seaweed (nori) and rolled into a cylindrical shape on a bamboo mat and then cut into smaller pieces. Temaki – Basically the same as makizushi, except that the nori is rolled into a cone-shape with the ingredients placed inside. Chirashi – Translated as “scattered”, chirashi involves fresh sea food, vegetables or other ingredients being placed on top of sushi rice in a bowl or dish.

New Zealand

Beer: Steinlager

Notes: Steinlager has it’s own distinctive crisp and clean taste that has earned it international award winning status. It is known as the brand that personifies the unique attitude that makes NZ successful. Steinlager (or Steinecker as it was originally known) was first brewed in 1958 to circumvent the need for the importation of European beers. It is a lager with a distinctive grassy note and clean crisp bitterness of green bullet hops. It is balanced with a dry, astringent finish.

National Dish: Pavlova

Notes: The dessert is believed to have been created in honour of Russian ballet dancer Anna Pavlova during or after one of her tours of Australia and New Zealand in the 1920s. Research tips the balance in favour of it hailing from NZ. Either way the iconic “pav” is a popular and important dish in both countries. Made by whipping egg whites to a very stiff consistency then adding caster sugar, white vinegar and cornstarch you end up with a crisp and crunchy shell and a soft marshmallow filling. It is normally garnished with whipped cream and fresh fruit. My mum makes a sensational one.

Match Six

Brazil

Beer: Brahma

Notes: Nearly 4 percent of all of Brazil’s beer, and by the way Brazil is the world’s fourth-largest beer market, is consumed during the four days around Carnival. I wonder how much is drunk at the football? Brahma has a very cool website that allows you to “draw” on it in time with the background music and Drumprovise where you can mix 8 turntables with your mouse. A great example of “ginga” the Brasilian philosophy and approach to life fusing creativity and ingenuity.

National Dish: Feijoada

Notes: It is a hearty bean stew with rice and different cuts of pork. An ordinary family in Rio de Janeiro has feijoada at least once a month, as well as for special occasions such as Christmas, birthday dinners and Easter. Because of the heavy consistence of the famous bean stew, Brazilians believe that drinking some caipirinha helps reduce the unhealthy effects. Otherwise, the only recommended activity after this culinary treat is a nap.

Switzerland

Beer: La Salamandre

Notes: Depending on where you are in Switzerland you can expect different influences from it’s neighbouring countries to come through and beer is no exception. Brasserie Des Franches Montagnes (BFM) is a successful and very innovative microbrewery that puts a successful Swiss twist on beer styles originating in Belgium. Absolutely great beers if you believe everything you read on the internet. This one is a Belgian White (Witbier) beer.

National Dish: Fondue

Notes: Had to be fondue. The turophile or chocoholic’s dream. Classic cheese fondue is a mixture of molten emmental and gruyere cheeses mixed with white wine and Kirsch and eaten by skewering chunks of bread and dipping them into the gooey cheesy goodness. The chocolate version is best enjoyed with strawberries.

Match Seven

Italy

Beer: Peroni

Notes: It is a crisp and refreshing lager – Italian style in a bottle (or so their marketing department would have you think) and has a close association with the current FIFA World Champions. The name of the beer, Nastro Azzurro – “Blue Ribbon” comes from the prize that used to be given to the ship that crossed the Atlantic in the fastest time. Carlo Peroni named his new beer after it in honour of the SS Rex the only Italian ship to have received this prestigious award, in 1933.

National Dish: Pasta

Notes: Nothing says Italy like its food, and nothing says Italian food like pasta. Wherever Italians have immigrated they have brought their pasta and so today it is basically an international staple. It is estimated that Italians eat over 28 kilos of pasta per person annually. Pasta is everywhere and can be dried (pasta secca) or fresh (pasta fresca) depending on what the recipe calls for.

Denmark

Beer: Carlsberg
Notes: It was brewed for the Danish Royal wedding in 2004 and voted best wedding beer at the Copenhagen Beer Festival in the same year. Their tagline is “Probably the best beer in the world” and they recommend you serve your Carlsberg chilled, preferably with a friend or three by your side. Sure, why not?

National Dish: Frikadelle
Notes: “Frikadelle” is an Old Danish national dish from 1648 and the first recipes of this delicious dish dates back to 1837. Frikadelle are flat pan fried dumplings of minced meat, often likened to the Danish version of meatballs. The meatballs are made of pure pork and served with potatoes, pickled beetroot, sour preserved cucumber and thick brown sauce. As a people, the Danes eat the most pork in the world. Each Dane eats almost 60 kg of tasty pork every year – and nearly 30 kg of beef – whilst each citizen in Denmark only eats 23 kg of poultry and fish.

Match Eight

Spain

Beer: Mahou

Notes: While Spain is without doubt a wine culture, if you look you can still find a cerveza that pulls its own weight. Mahou. Not only is it the official beer of Real Madrid, providing a worthy football link, it’s a beer served very cold which, as an Australian, I’m duty bound to love.

National Dish: Paella

Notes: It started in the fields of Valencia, where locals mixed rice with rabbit, snails and vegetables over an open fire and evolved into Spain’s most well known dish where fish, shellfish, meat, pork and/or chicken may be used. Close runners up were jamon serrano and chorizo. But traditionally it’s the men that make paella and I love a man that cooks.

Ivory Coast

Beer: Mamba

Notes: Despite being named after a snake, Mamba’s label actually features a large alligator. Technically a malt liquor, the beer is pretty venomous or has some bite depending on how you view it.

National Dish: Fufu

Notes: Fufu is a dish made from plantains, cassava, or yams pounded into a sticky dough and served with a seasoned meat and vegetable sauce called kedjenou. As with most meals in Côte d’Ivoire, it is typically eaten with the hands. Just make sure you use the correct one for eating.