boyeatsworld

Things to do in Siem Reap with teens

Aleney de Winter — Thu, 12 Nov 2026 06:56:09 +0000

Looking for things to do in Siem Reap with teenagers or young adults? I’ve been coming to Cambodia for years, but travelling with a teenager changes the rules, the itinerary and the way I see a place I thought I already knew.

“Can I eat a tarantula?”

Raff was 10 when he asked me that at an insect café in Siem Reap.

“Go on,” I said, assuming he’d baulk.

He ate the tarantula…. and a bunch of miscellaneous bugs. He also fell hard for Cambodia’s temples, tuk-tuks, people, and the wild adventures that seemed to appear around every corner. He was already promising he’d be back before we left. Eight years later, we’re making that happen and have returned to Siem Reap, but the question has changed.

“Can I have a beer?”

He’s 18 now, after all.

It’s a strange, slightly dizzying thing to suddenly be travelling with a kid who isn’t really a kid anymore but somehow still completely is.

A kid who can have a beer with me, stay up late swapping stories, and head off exploring on his own but is still my baby and asks for money to pay for the beer. And a kid who dilligently packed his guitar before he packed so much as a change of underwear… I think I’m in for an interesting week.

This time, we’re travelling with InsideAsia, and it doesn’t take long to realise what a difference that makes. They’ve quietly pulled all the strings, sorted the logistics and lined up experiences I didn’t even know existed in a place I thought I knew pretty well. Here are a few of the great things they made happen for us, along with a few of the more questionable things we managed to make happen ourselves, as well as a few teen-friendly experiences we chalked up on previous visits.

Our favourite things to do in Siem Reap with teenagers and young adults

Siem Reap has plenty to keep teenagers and young adults interested beyond the famous temples. From exploring Angkor Wat behind the scenes and meeting Cambodia’s mine-detecting HeroRATs to vintage shopping, street food tours, ziplining and getting a traditional sak yant tattoo, there’s a surprising amount to do once you’ve had your fill of ancient ruins. We’ve included our favourite experiences, along with practical ideas for planning a Siem Reap trip with older kids.

Behind the Scenes on an Angkor Wat Conservation Tour

We don’t arrive at Angkor Wat with the crowds. Instead, we’re climbing. Up narrow scaffolding. Through parts of the temple normally closed to visitors. Deeper into the stone than I’ve ever been before, following a conservator from the German Apsara Conservation Project as he shows us what happens when a 900-year-old temple is slowly being eaten away by time.

The work being done here is painfully delicate. A tiny crack can become a huge problem. Rain finds the gaps. Heat expands and contracts the stone. Humidity encourages growth. Thousands of visitors add their own wear. This is no slapdash restoration job, done with a little Spakfilla from Bunnings. The conservators are attempting to preserve carvings that have survived centuries of weather, conflict and neglect without turning them into something they were never meant to be, and the science behind it is extraordinary.

They have spent years studying the different stones that make up the Angkor complex at a forensic level… examining its mineral makeup, grain structure and chemical composition and comparing samples with stone from ancient quarry sites around Cambodia so when restoration calls for new stone, the replacement comes from the same ancient sources used by the original builders. Here, even rocks have to pass a background check because every crack, flake, fragment and replacement stone matters and every repair must make sense of what was there before, rather than simply making the temple look good again.

Raff follows the conservator to clamber up a ladder, emerging above the temple. For once, there is no page between him and history.

He is standing on it.

InsideAsia made this happen. It is Angkor Wat from a completely different perspective, with rare access to parts of the temple most visitors never see and a chance to watch the conservators doing the painstaking work of keeping it alive. Judging by the awe-struck look on Raff’s face, he knows exactly what a huge privilege it is.

Visiting Ta Prohm Temple in Angkor Archaeological Park

If Angkor Wat is a much-loved patient in intensive care, Ta Prohm is the one who discharged itself, wandered into the forest, and let the trees move in.

It’s our favourite temple in Siem Reap, so we’re excited to be heading back. First though, we must make our way through Angkor Thom, which is a bit like popping through the foyer of a palace built for giants. Stone guardians line the causeway at the gates, locked in an eternal tug-of-war with a very long naga, and then the towers of the Bayon rise up out of the forest, their enormous faces smiling down at us as we drive by.

The walk to Ta Prohm is generally half the fun. Local musicians play along the path, their melodies drifting through the forest, and little stalls at the car park offer fruit, cold drinks and a staggering array of souvenirs we absolutely do not need but buy anyway. Only today, the whole place feels strangely quiet.

Light falls through the canopy in soft golden shafts and butterflies flutter across the path, and the further we walk, the more the forest takes over, until all we can hear is birdsong and the crunch of our own feet.

Raff and I have both visited Ta Prohm before, so we think we know what we’re in for. Crowds. Selfie sticks. A polite shuffle-and-squeeze through every doorway while someone in a floppy hat attempts their eleventy millionth selfie in front of the same jungle-shrouded doorway. But today it’s just us, some very chirpy birds and a lot of moss. There is none of the familiar scrum of people we remember from our previous visits.

We wander through courtyards and duck through doorways with nobody tutting behind us to hurry up. We stand beneath those colossal trees and simply stare, jaws slack for as long as we like, because there’s no one waiting for us to move along.

And what incredible trees they are. Great silk-cotton trees and strangler figs that have spent centuries slowly, greedily devouring this place, their roots pouring over the walls like melted wax and coiling through doorways like muscular grey pythons that dozed off mid-swallow. It’s nature and architecture locked in the world’s slowest wrestling match.

We notice things we’ve never noticed before. Hairline cracks zigzagging across the sandstone. The carved dancers striking their poses between the roots, still mid-performance after eight hundred years and not the slightest bit fussed about the trees muscling in on their stage. The way the light shifts across the stones, turning them from grey to gold to green and back again.

For a little while, Ta Prohm is ours. Just ours. And after all those previous visits spent dodging elbows and backpacks, it feels like we’ve somehow won the temple lottery.

APOPO HeroRATs in Siem Reap

History gets altogether fluffier at APOPO, where we get up close with some rats. Giant African pouched rats, to be precise.

These absurdly cute critters can detect traces of explosive chemicals in soil, while their light weight means they can cross a minefield without triggering the pressure plates beneath them. In Cambodia, where decades of war and conflict left millions of landmines and other unexploded remnants scattered through the country, that tiny nose can be the difference between life and death.

It’s a wonderfully odd example of humanitarian work, using an animal’s natural ability to do something that can make an enormous difference to people living with the legacy of war. Because what these rats are finding is anything but cute.

Cambodia is estimated to have been left with 4 to 6 million landmines and other munitions after decades of conflict, and the danger is not history. In the first seven months of 2026 alone, 28 people were killed, injured or suffered amputations in landmine and explosive ordnance incidents. In 2025, APOPO’s Cambodian teams located 327 landmines, 66 cluster munitions and 270 other explosive remnants of war. They helped return almost 12.8 million square metres of contaminated land to communities that can now be farmed, built on and simply walked across without worrying about what might be buried underneath it.

This is not a case of sending animals into danger and hoping for the best either. The whole process is carefully designed around their safety and welfare. They are trained using rewards rather than punishment, get exceptional veterinary care, plenty of food, rest and enrichment, and live in what is essentially a little rat resort. Honestly, they’re looked after like the heroes they are… and not one has ever been injured or killed while doing mine-detection work.

After we watch an APOPO training exercise, one of the rats comes in for a cuddle, the enormous explosive-sniffing rodent climbing up my son and nestling into his hair like an overgrown pet.

We smile, despite the sobering reality of the job this sweet guy is here to do.

What else can you do? The history doesn’t disappear. Neither does the life happening around it.

Phare, The Cambodian Circus in Siem Reap

Calling Phare a circus doesn’t quite prepare you for what happens inside the big red tent. It’s one of those things we might easily have overlooked, and I’m very glad we didn’t.

The performers are Cambodian artists trained through Phare Ponleu Selpak, an arts organisation founded in Battambang that grew from work with young people living in refugee camps after the Khmer Rouge. The arts became a way for children who had lived through extraordinary upheaval to express themselves, learn skills and imagine a future. The result is something quite wonderful.

The lights go down. The music starts and the acrobats fly. Bodies bend in directions they probably shouldn’t. Performers tumble, leap, dance and hurl themselves through the air with astonishing precision, while a live band pounds out the soundtrack. There’s plenty of comedy and the audience is loving every second of it. Kids, adults, grandmas, everyone is laughing and clapping and cheering… or holding their breath when someone launches into a trick that looks like it might end badly. It never does. The performers are experts and seem to be having just as much fun as the audience.

Raff is spellbound. Because of course he is. He’s a performer too, as is his sister, so he knows what it takes to stand in front of a crowd and make something look effortless when you know damn well it isn’t. He’s watching the timing, the physical skill and the sheer nerve involved in every trick. He doesn’t need convincing that the arts are important.

Sunrise Meditation at Phnom Krom

Nothing tests a teenager quite like a 4.30am alarm.

We rattle out through the dark countryside with our InsideAsia guide, heading for Phnom Krom, one of the oldest surviving temples around Angkor. Perched on a hill above the Tonlé Sap floodplain, the temple was built in the late ninth or early tenth century during the reign of King Yasovarman I, its three sandstone towers dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma.

By the time we arrive, it is still completely dark. But our meditation guide, Nina, is already waiting for us, with two mats laid out among the ancient stones and a few candles flickering in the darkness. Somewhere in the distance, we can hear monks chanting. Nina leads us through a guided meditation as the sky slowly begins to change.

The first hints of light creep across the horizon, and, bit by bit, the landscape below us comes into focus. As we sit in the growing light, it feels as though some of the noise and stress we arrived with is disappearing with the darkness.

Then there is the temple itself. The three towers have taken a hell of a beating over the centuries, their sandstone worn away by heat, rain and humidity. Yet there is still something extraordinary about standing among these ancient stones, high above the floodplain, watching the first light spread across a landscape that has been part of Cambodian history for more than a thousand years.

Raff wants to know all of it. Kings. Dates. Battles. How the hell they built something this enormous without cranes, trucks or Google Maps. He’s come a long way from the kid who once chased butterflies around the ruins.

We continue through the temple complex, dogs and cats greeting us like a furry welcoming committee, until we reach a small pagoda where we offer alms to a saffron-robed monk, who in turn blesses us with water and prayers. Our InsideAsia guide explains that he is wishing us good health, good luck and prosperity and we head off into the day feeling blissed and blessed. For once, a 4.30am alarm feels entirely worth it.

Samatoa Lotus Silk Farm Cambodia

Samatoa Lotus Silk Farm is a social enterprise employing vulnerable women in Cambodia, and I am already ridiculously excited to be here. It’s a place I’d never have known existed if InsideAsia hadn’t slipped it into our itinerary.

I have a bit of a thing for lotus flowers. I’ve even tried, not very successfully, to grow them at home. The lotus has a special place in Cambodian culture, it is a Buddhist symbol of purity and enlightenment, blooming above the murky water even though its roots are down in the mud.

We head out onto the ponds in little wooden boats, lotus leaves stretching in every direction, pink flowers poking up through a sea of green. Our boatman hands me a posy of gorgeous flowers, artfully folded, then folds lotus leaves into hats for us, keeping the sun off our heads as we drift through the ponds. I do briefly wonder whether a teenage boy will find a floating field of flowers a little twee. Not a chance.

Raff thinks it’s extraordinary, but he’s more interested in what happens next. At Samatoa, we learn that the lotus is one seriously useful plant. The stems are harvested and painstakingly stripped of their fine fibres, which are pulled, twisted and rolled by hand to make lotus yarn. We watch the women work, their fingers flying through a process that looks simple until we try it for ourselves. But that’s only the beginning. Nothing goes to waste. The lotus is turned into fabric, paper, food, tea, jewellery and handicrafts. Even ice cream. Which we eat, obviously.

The flowers may be fleeting and delicate, but underneath them is a plant that is tough, generous and astonishingly useful. There seems to be very little it can’t do, except flower for me in my pots at home.

Vintage shopping in Siem Reap

Something you discover when travelling with a beginner grown-up is that your idea of a good afternoon can change considerably. Mine involves temples, food and finding somewhere interesting to sit down for a bevvie. Raff’s involves vintage clothes and anything that looks like it might have belonged to someone considerably cooler than either of us.

Siem Reap has a surprisingly good second-hand clothing scene, with Japanese vintage and recycled clothing shops dotted around town. It is a long way from the usual souvenir shopping, and a welcome change from being marched past another row of elephant-print trousers.

We rummage through Sakura Recycle Shop Japan, TheSun Vintage and Thrift Up @ Mex’d Up Bar & Restaurant!, all good places to start if your teenager is into vintage and second-hand wares. The Japanese influence is particularly strong, with plenty of pre-loved clothes making their way to Siem Reap for a second life rather than ending up in landfill. More upmarket and collectible offerings are available too at The Cocoon House.

Siem Reap street food tour

We revisit 60 Road, and I barely recognise it. The little roadside stretch of food stalls I remember has grown massively since our last visit, with stalls and tables stretching along the road, smoke rising from grills and local families sitting down to eat. Some are on picnic mats, others in the little plastic chairs that spill out from the larger venues. Apart from us, there isn’t another foreigner in sight.

This is the Siem Reap people live in, not the one laid out for tourists. As the sun starts to drop, the vendors roll in and the roadside slowly turns into a sprawling local night market. By morning, most of it will have disappeared and the road will get back to the business of being a road.

Our guide takes charge, which is exactly what I want him to do. This is another reason travelling with people who live in a place is so good. We don’t spend half an hour staring at a menu wondering what the hell we’ve just ordered. He knows Cambodian food and what’s tasty, who does it best and, crucially, what we’re supposed to do with it when it arrives.

And arrive it does. Steaming lemongrass fish soup, pork and shrimp-stuffed pancakes, barbecued squid, glutinous rice cakes, mochi-like Cambodian doughnuts, an inevitable bag of deep-fried bugs and all sorts of things I wouldn’t have known to order, let alone known how to eat. He points out what to dip into what, what to eat first and which dishes are worth fighting over, while we happily hand ourselves over to him.

Somewhere along the road, Raff acquires an insane plush chicken that looks like a cabbage. It is a gift for his sister, apparently. Of course, it gets its own seat in the tuk-tuk as our food tour takes us back into Siem Reap, where the gorging continues.

There’s beef barbecue, pork and noodles at a very cool bar where we settle in for a while, followed by a rice wine tasting. For newly 18 Raff, being allowed to join in the grown-up drinking feels like a significant milestone, although I’m pretty sure he’s more interested in the food.

We finish with ice cream on Pub Street, which has also changed enormously since our last visit. What I remember as a lively little strip has grown into a much bigger hive of bars, restaurants, lights, music and people, spilling into the surrounding streets.

By now, our guide has led us through enough little spots that we feel less like tourists on a food tour and more like we’ve been taken out by a friend who knows exactly where the good stuff is. That’s the InsideAsia magic. The itinerary is there, but it never feels like we’re being marched through it. They open the doors, then step back and let us enjoy what was on the other side… with the chook riding shotgun.

Getting a Sak Yant Tattoo

I have wanted a sak yant since I first visited Cambodia 20 years ago. Raff has wanted one since his first visit nine years ago. The difference is that he is now old enough and utterly determined, while I am a complete chicken shit.

The idea of a permanent tattoo is scary enough, but the idea of one delivered via a big, scary stick, wielded by a chanting, monk-adjacent kru (master), is nerve-wracking, to say the least. And my very real fear of being guilty of cultural appropriation does not help.

And yet, somehow, when we have a free half day to do whatever we like, we end up inked. It turns out one of the things about travelling with a newly minted adult is that you start behaving like one yourself.

If you came of age travelling in the 2000s, you probably know sak yant as a thing millennial backpackers acquired in Thailand, somewhere between the Full Moon Party and the $5 bucket. But this is not that.

Sak Yant are made up of yantra designs, ancient scripts and Buddhist mantras, traditionally believed to offer protection, strength, luck and blessings to the person who wears them. Their roots run deep into Khmer culture, with protective yantra traditions dating back to the Angkor period. They are a blessing, rooted in Buddhist belief, carrying protection and meaning and a few responsibilities too… not something to get on a drunken dare, but something to be approached with care, respect for the tradition and an understanding of what it means.

We are both Buddhist leaning, if not always actively practising. We’ve read the texts, we’ve done the research, and we understand that a Sak Yant is not a fashion statement. I have been visiting Cambodia for 20 years, and I’ve dug deep every time, some of that time spent loitering in pagodas, chatting with monks about their ink. They seemed pleased that people from the other side of the world wanted to understand and honour the tradition.

So, when we do. We do it properly. Not in some prettied-up studio designed for Instagram, but in a real place, with a real kru and a real stick. We don’t even pick the final design. We suggest a size and a vague location, and that’s about it. The rest is up to the kru, who chats with us about what we want from our tattoos spiritually before he decides what each of us should carry. For this risk-averse Mama, leaving something so permanent to someone else is, well… terrifying. But I swallow a teaspoon of cement, close my eyes and go for it.

When the ink is complete, the sak yant is brought to life with an activation blessing, and this is the part that gets me. The kru chants over the fresh tattoo, then sprinkles it with holy water, with flowers forming part of the ritual too. It is much quieter than I expected, and much more intimate, which seems appropriate because we both choose to have our tattoos in places that are just for us, not on display for anyone else. Oh, and there are no photos to prove it because this was never about having something cool to post online.

For us, this isn’t about appropriating something from Khmer culture. It’s about appreciating it, accepting an invitation to share in something meaningful and carrying that with us as a permanent thank you to a place we genuinely love.

More things to do in Siem Reap with teens and young adults

Obviously, you can’t come to Siem Reap without seeing the temples. Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Prohm are the big hitters, but the Angkor Archaeological Park is vast and there are plenty more to explore if your teenager hasn’t reached peak ruin. Start early, take plenty of water and don’t try to conquer the entire park in one heroic day. For a deeper guide to which temples are worth seeing and how to plan your visit, see our guide to the Angkor temples.

Vespa tours

If your teenager spends the trip gazing at scooters like other people gaze at puppies, a Vespa tour is probably inevitable. You ride pillion behind a local driver, heading into the countryside, around the temples or into Siem Reap’s food scene after dark.

Angkor Zipline

When everyone has had enough ancient stone, head for the treetops. Angkor Zipline runs through the forest inside Angkor Archaeological Park, with ziplines and sky bridges through the canopy.

Quad biking

Quad biking gets you out into the countryside, rattling along dirt tracks between rice paddies and villages. Sunset rides avoid the worst of the heat and require considerably less historical appreciation than an afternoon at Angkor.

Cycling in the countryside

Swap the tuk-tuk for two wheels and explore the quieter roads beyond Siem Reap, passing stilt houses, pagodas and rice paddies. Just go early or late. Cycling through Cambodia in the midday heat is an effective way to ruin a perfectly good bike ride.

Cambodia Landmine Museum

Near Banteay Srei, the Cambodia Landmine Museum tells the story of landmines and unexploded ordnance through the experience of former child soldier and deminer Aki Ra. It’s confronting, but gives older teenagers more context for Cambodia’s history and the ongoing demining work you’ll see at places such as APOPO.

Phnom Kulen

Phnom Kulen is associated with the beginnings of the Khmer Empire and its riverbed is carved with hundreds of lingas, sacred representations of Shiva. The water flowing over the carvings is considered sacred and the site has been an important place of worship for centuries. But there is more to Phnom Kulen than an enormous collection of sacred stone willies, including a huge reclining Buddha and a jawdropping waterfall where you can cool off.

Tonlé Sap

Kompong Phluk offers a glimpse of life around Tonlé Sap, with houses raised above the floodplain and boats travelling through flooded forest when water levels are high. Choose your operator carefully and remember these are people’s homes, not a tourist set.

Angkor National Museum

If everyone is losing track of which king built what, the Angkor National Museum provides useful context before or after the temples. The Gallery of 1,000 Buddhas is the highlight, and the air-conditioning is a pretty good bonus after a morning at Angkor.

Blind massage

A blind massage is another good one to slip into the itinerary, particularly after a few days of temples and walking. The therapists are trained blind or visually impaired masseurs, and it’s a good way to introduce wellness loving teenagers to a different kind of local social enterprise while also giving everyone’s legs a well-earned break.

Artisans Angkor

Artisans Angkor is a chance to see traditional Cambodian crafts including stone carving, woodwork, lacquer and silk, while the silk farm shows how the process works. It’s also a good place to buy something actually made in Cambodia.

Siem Reap night markets

Give your teenager a small budget and set them loose. There are clothes, souvenirs, snacks, questionable sunnies and elephant-print everything. The only rule is that whatever they buy has to fit in their luggage. This is how you avoid coming home with a giant cabbage chicken. Or, at least, that was the theory.

Where to Stay in Siem Reap

We’ve stayed in several different places in Siem Reap over the years, including the gorgeous Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra Golf & Spa Resort, which deserves a shout-out, but this time we’re staying at ANJALI by Syphon, a boutique beauty we can’t speak highly enough of.

ANJALI by Syphon

An intimate boutique retreat away from the bustle, with spacious rooms, a lovely pool and a lush garden that makes the whole place feel more private hideaway than hotel. There’s a decent spa too, with treatments drawing on traditional Khmer healing, plus yoga if you fancy doing something more restorative than dragging yourself around another temple. The staff are genuinely lovely,, and nothing ever feels like too much trouble. Seriously, I loved them like family affter a day.

Breakfast at ANJALI by SYphone is especially good. Rather than the usual hotel buffet assault, you order from the à la carte menu and it arrives like your own personal breakfast buffet. The breakfast noodle soup is amazing. I have been thinking about it ever since we left, which is probably not a normal reaction, but I’m not remotely normal, especially about food.

FOr lunch and dinner the food at Mekhala Restaurant & Bar is sublime, full stop. People actually come from elsewhere in Siem Reap to eat here, which is always a good sign.

There’s also a lovely upstairs bar, where the bartender takes his cocktails seriously and, happily, takes time for a chat too. After a day of temples, it’s exactly the sort of place you want to retreat to.

For us, though, it’s the combination of the garden, the food and that genuinely personal feel that makes ANJALI by Syphon such a find. It’s the sort of hotel where you start out thinking you’ll just sleep there and end up wanting to hang around.

Check ANJALI by Syphon prices and availability →

Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra

The Sofitel is worth considering if you want a bigger resort with plenty of space, particularly when travelling with kids or teenagers. There’s loads of facilities, including a kids’ club, swimming pool and a spa with a huge range of treatments, plus a sauna, steam room and fitness centre. It’s the sort of place where you can disappear back to the resort after a morning at the temples and everyone can do their own thing for a while. You can read our full review of the Sofitel here.

Check Sofitel Angkor Phokeethra prices and availability →

Siem Reap – Know before you go

How long do you need in Siem Reap?

I’d allow at least three full days in Siem Reap if you want to see the main Angkor temples without turning your holiday into an archaeological endurance event. That’s enough time for Angkor Wat, Bayon and Ta Prohm, with some room left for other things to do once everyone has hit peak temple. Five to seven days gives you more breathing room, particularly if you want to get out of town or fit in some of the experiences we’ve included here.

Getting to Siem Reap

Most international visitors now fly into Siem Reap Angkor International Airport, which opened in October 2023 and replaced the old airport near the temples. The new airport is much farther from central Siem Reap, so allow around an hour for the drive, depending on traffic.

There are direct flights from several Asian cities, making Siem Reap easy to add to a wider Southeast Asia trip. You can also travel overland from Phnom Penh and elsewhere in Cambodia by bus, private car or transfer.

Do you need a visa for Cambodia?

Visa requirements for Cambodia depend on your nationality, so check the current rules for your passport before you travel. For many visitors, including Australians, the easiest option is the tourist e-Visa, which you can apply for online before you go.

At the date of publication, the tourist e-Visa costs US$30, is single entry and allows a stay of up to 30 days. It is valid for three months from the date of issue and the official processing time is three business days. You’ll need a passport with more than six months’ validity remaining, a digital passport photo and a Visa or Mastercard. I’d still apply at least a week before travelling, because discovering there’s a problem with your visa when you’re trying to get on a plane is nobody’s idea of fun.

Use the official Cambodian government e-Visa site, evisa.gov.kh, rather than one of the many lookalike websites that will charge you extra for doing the exact same form.

You also need to complete Cambodia’s free e-Arrival Card online within seven days before arrival. It’s separate from the visa, so don’t make the mistake of assuming one covers the other.

Getting around Siem Reap

Getting around Siem Reap is easy and cheap. Tuk-tuks are everywhere and were our go-to for getting around town, with short trips generally costing a couple of US dollars. Ride-hailing apps including Grab and PassApp are also widely used and show the fare upfront, which saves you having to negotiate every time you want to go somewhere.

Central Siem Reap is walkable in places, particularly around the Old Market and Pub Street, but Cambodia is hot and distances have a sneaky habit of looking shorter on a map than they feel on foot. For longer days out to places such as Phnom Kulen or Beng Mealea, an organised tour or private driver makes much more sense.

If you’re travelling with InsideAsia, they’ll arrange pretty much the lot, from accommodation and airport transfers to drivers, tours and experiences, and tailor the itinerary around what your family wants to do. We rode in tuk-tuks, climbed aboard Vespas and had transport sorted whenever we needed it, which meant we could spend our time exploring rather than working out how to get there. For a family trip, that takes a fair bit of the logistical grunt out of the equation.

Best time to visit Siem Reap

Siem Reap is hot year-round, so there is no getting around that part. The dry season generally runs from November to April and is the most popular time to visit, with less chance of rain and easier conditions for exploring the temples. It’s also the busiest period, particularly around Angkor Wat.

The wet season, from around May to October, is hotter and more humid, but it has its advantages too. The rain often comes in short, heavy bursts rather than hanging around all day, the countryside is lush and green and the temples can be quieter. Tonlé Sap is also at its fullest, making this a particularly interesting time to visit the floating villages and flooded forests.

Whenever you visit, early starts are your friend, particularly for the Angkor temples. We’ve discovered that getting out before the heat really kicks in makes a surprisingly large difference to everyone’s enthusiasm for wandering around 900-year-old stones.

More Cambodia adventures

Keen to see more of Cambodia? We’ve got plenty more stories from our travels around the country. Siem Reap might be where most visitors start, but there’s a lot to be said for venturing further afield. We loved our time exploring the south, especially the food in Kep and Kampot, and there’s plenty more to discover along the way.

More Cambodia to explore

What to Expect from Cambodian Cuisine – Khmer food deserves far more attention than it gets. Here’s what to order and what to look out for when eating your way around Cambodia.

Wellness Experiences in Cambodia – Need a little downtime? We’ve found some lovely ways to take a breather in Cambodia.

Phnom Kulen, Cambodia: From Sacred Temples to Secret Ruins – Phnom Kulen holds a special place in Cambodian history. Often regarded as the birthplace of the Khmer Empire, this sacred mountain is home to some of the country’s most fascinating ancient sites.

Mount Bokor: Finding Gods and Ghosts on Cambodia’s Strangest Mountain – Bokor is a strange and fascinating place. Its abandoned hill station has quite a story to tell.

Kep – Cambodia’s famous blue swimmer crab is worth travelling for. Find out where to eat it fresh from the sea and what else makes this little coastal town worth a stop.

Kampot – We loved exploring Kampot, a riverside town with a fascinating history and a food scene that makes good use of the region’s famous pepper.

Silk Island – A short ferry ride from Phnom Penh takes you to Silk Island, where we got to see traditional silk weaving and a very different side of life along the Mekong.

Exploring Siem Reap with kids

The Best Siem Reap Temples with Kids – Angkor Wat is extraordinary, of course, but it’s far from the only temple worth exploring. Here’s where we’d take the kids.

19 Smart Tips for Travelling in Cambodia with Kids – Planning a family trip? These are the practical things worth knowing before you go.

The Best Things to Do in Siem Reap with Kids – There’s plenty to keep the family busy beyond the temples. Here’s what we’d put on the itinerary.

The post Things to do in Siem Reap with teens appeared first on boyeatsworld.

Mercure Newcastle review: a teen-friendly family getaway

Aleney de Winter — Sat, 07 Nov 2026 03:17:46 +0000

How does Mercure Newcastle stack up as a family-friendly hotel in Newcastle? We checked in with two teenagers in tow to find out.

Somewhere between my kids hitting their teens and learning to communicate almost entirely through grunts and inaudible muttering, our family holidays changed shape. Gone are the days of everyone happily piling into one room, top-and-tailing and drifting off to a cartoon. These days, my teens want a decent Wi-Fi connection and a door they can close on their mother. And after a full day of exploring, I’m often keen on that door myself.

So, when we headed up the M1 for a few days in Newcastle for a theatre festival at the Civic Theatre, I needed a family hotel in Newcastle that would make a busy few days easy on all of us. The Mercure Newcastle, on Steel Street in Newcastle West and roughly two and a half hours’ drive from Sydney, turned out to be exactly that. Here’s why it won over even my hard-to-impress critics.

Mercure Newcastle’s connecting rooms give everyone space

There’s an art to travelling with teenagers, and a surprising amount of it comes down to floor plans. Squeeze everyone into one room and by day two someone is sighing dramatically at the way I fold a towel. Give them their own space, with an internal door between us, and the mood shifts. At the Mercure Newcastle, that door meant the kids could retreat to their own beds and scroll in peace, thus sparing themselves the considerable effort of rolling their eyes at me every half hour.

Meanwhile, I could curl up with a book and a cup of tea in blissful silence, knowing they were safely there on the other side of the wall. Connecting rooms are available on request, so be sure to ask for one when you book.

And I’m not sure what the Mercure puts in its mattresses, but the kids and I slept like logs every single night. Each morning was met with a chorus of groans when the alarm went off, and coaxing two teenagers out of their cosy nests took the kind of negotiation skills usually reserved for hostage situations.

Mercure Newcastle offers other options for families of all sizes with 131 non-smoking rooms and suites across six floors, from Standard King and Twin rooms through to Deluxe Kings. Travelling with extended family? The Deluxe Two-Bedroom King Suite sleeps up to seven and has a full kitchen, which is handy for those who prefer to DIY breakfast, lunch or dinner, or even those who just need the space to stash the industrial quantity of snacks needed to keep hungry teenagers civil.

→ Check rates and availability at Mercure Newcastle

Reception is open 24/7 and check-in is easy

First impressions matter, especially after a drive up the M1 with hungry teens in the back seat and a playlist dispute still simmering. The team at reception were lovely from the moment we walked in, and check-in was quick and painless. Reception is staffed 24/7 too, which is reassuring if your arrival runs late.

For families driving to Newcastle from Sydney or elsewhere in NSW, flexible arrival arrangements are useful. Traffic and travel schedules don’t always go to plan, and knowing reception is staffed around the clock takes one more thing off the holiday logistics list.

The tech keeps everyone happy

Rooms have free Wi-Fi for ALL Accor Live Limitless members (it’s free to join), which any parent travelling with teens will know is non-negotiable, and thankfully it held up to some serious streaming. Rooms also have Chromecast TVs, so the kids could beam their shows onto the big screen rather than hunching over their phones.

It’s a useful extra for families staying more than one night, particularly when everyone wants a little downtime after a day out. Being able to stream familiar shows and movies also makes the room feel a little more like home.

There’s parking on site and public transport close by

If you’re planning a Newcastle weekend getaway by car, it’s worth factoring parking into your accommodation decision.

Mercure Newcastle has on-site outdoor parking for just $16 a night, which is a bargain by city standards. Spaces are limited, though, so book the hotel’s Drive & Stay package if you want a guaranteed spot. We used the car constantly, zipping back between rehearsals and outings, and never once had to circle the block hunting for a spot.

When you’re travelling with teenagers who move at the pace of a glacier right up until someone mentions food, that kind of flexibility is gold. If you’d rather leave the car at home, Newcastle Interchange is around 650 metres away, and Honeysuckle Light Rail Station is about a six-minute walk.

The Mercure Newcastle pool is a screen-free circuit breaker

Getting teenagers away from their devices can feel like an Olympic sport, but an outdoor pool on a warm afternoon is a pretty persuasive bribe. The Mercure’s pool is a handy spot to cool off and reset after a busy day of rehearsals and sightseeing, and it’s one of those simple hotel perks that even the coolest teen will grudgingly admit is nice. It’s also a lovely place for parents to put their feet up before dinner.

It’s worth mentioning that this is a modest hotel swimming pool rather than a destination resort pool. For us, though, having somewhere to cool off without having to organise another outing was a welcome bonus.

Bar Distrikt is a hotel restaurant worth staying in for

Our first night in town, we ate with friends at a hotel restaurant just down the road and left distinctly underwhelmed. Bar Distrikt, the hotel’s in-house restaurant, was a completely different story, and we’d have happily booked a table even if we weren’t staying upstairs.

My garlic prawn spaghetti was a standout. Plump prawns and cherry tomatoes are tossed through al dente pasta in a lemon butter sauce, then finished with parmesan and fresh herbs, and every mouthful was creamy, zesty and utterly moreish. Raff’s Distrikt Burger was a hit, with a juicy wagyu patty piled high with cheese, salad, pickles and truffle aioli, plus a generous pile of golden chips. And my daughter’s club sandwich came crowned with an egg, which, she claimed, made it “extra.” Both teens polished off their plates and started plotting their next meal here before we’d even paid the bill, which in our family is the equivalent of a five-star review.

Finding a restaurant that appeals to everyone in a family with teenagers can be harder than it sounds. One wants pasta, another wants a burger and I’m usually looking for something that doesn’t feel like another variation on the usual pub meal. Bar Distrikt managed to keep all three of us happy, which is a fairly impressive achievement.

Keep an eye out for the specials. Mondays are $22 pasta nights and Fridays bring $22 pizzas, which is music to the ears of anyone feeding bottomless teenage stomachs. There’s a happy hour from 4pm to 6pm daily for weary parents, and in-room dining for nights when the kids flatly refuse to leave their room.

Breakfast at Mercure Newcastle is generous and under-12s eat free

Breakfast kicks off at 6.30am on weekdays (7am on weekends), which is an hour my teens consider purely theoretical. Got younger kids? Under-12s eat free with a paying adult.

The buffet has everything you’d hope for, from bacon, sausages and crispy hash browns to bakery treats, fruit and yoghurt, but it was the poached eggs that won my heart. Cooked to order, they arrived with silky runny yolks and set whites, a rare thing at a hotel breakfast. I’ve endured more than my fair share of rubbery buffet eggs over the years, so this was cause for celebration.

Distrikt Press serves Industry Beans coffee

Distrikt Press brews with Industry Beans, and with no word of a lie, my flat white, savoured during a stolen half hour while the teens were still horizontal, was the best coffee I’ve had in months. It was so good that I went back for a second to take with me, served in a HuskeeCup (more on those below), whihc are also in the rooms.

Mercure Newcastle offers a sustainable stay

We love a sustainable option and always prefer to support hotels doing their bit, so I was delighted to find the Mercure Newcastle takes it seriously. The hotel has removed single-use plastics from its business, and those HuskeeCups at Distrikt Press are part of that push. Made from repurposed coffee husk, a by-product of coffee production, they’re used for breakfast service and sit-in hot drinks, and you can buy one to take home. Each comes with a universal lid, so you can keep using it at other Huskee partner cafés long after you’ve checked out.

The commitment extends to the kitchen too. Distrikt works with local food and beverage suppliers and uses fresh, local ingredients across its menu, while Bar Distrikt’s philosophy centres on locally sourced, sustainable produce. Add water-saving initiatives in the guest rooms and it’s a stay you can feel good about, which makes that second flat white taste even better.

It’s nice to see sustainability reflected in the everyday details of a hotel stay, rather than being confined to a sign asking guests to reuse their towels.

Newcastle’s best attractions are close by

Newcastle Ocean Baths © Aleney de Winter

Newcastle has grown into one of the best weekend escapes from Sydney for families with teens and the Mercure Newcastle is well placed to access it all. The Civic Theatre was an easy 15-minute stroll, which made getting the kids to the stage a doddle.

Newcastle Museum is a similar walk, and its hands-on Supernova science centre is a sure-fire hit with curious teens, even the ones who think they’re too cool for museums. Teens with an artsy streak will love the newly expanded Newcastle Art Gallery. It reopened in February 2026 after a major redevelopment that doubled its size, and it’s now the largest public gallery in NSW outside Sydney.

If your teens are anything like mine, though, Darby Street will be the main event. It’s the place for cafés and vintage shopping, and you may need to set a time limit. The Honeysuckle foreshore is lovely for a sunset stroll and dinner by the water.

Newcastle Beach and Nobbys Beach are a short drive or easy to access by public transport from the hotel. From there you can tackle a stretch of the Bathers Way coastal walk, brave a dip in the convict-carved Bogey Hole or swim laps at Merewether Ocean Baths, the largest ocean baths in the Southern Hemisphere. Nearby, the Anzac Memorial Walk runs along the clifftops with sweeping ocean views and is a fantastic spot for whale watching in winter.

For a hit of history, Fort Scratchley sits high above the harbour and has tunnels to explore, plus a claim to fame that tends to win over even the most history-averse teen. It’s said to be the only coastal fort in Australia to have returned fire on an enemy vessel, after a Japanese submarine shelled the city in 1942. From there you can wander out along the Nobbys breakwall to the lighthouse and watch the enormous coal ships glide in and out of the harbour.

If you have a car and a spare day, head about 45 minutes north to the Worimi Conservation Lands at Stockton Beach, home to the largest moving sand dunes in the southern hemisphere. Sandboarding down the dunes is a guaranteed hit with teens, and you’ll be finding sand in your bags for weeks. The Hunter Valley is also less than two hours away if you’d like to tack on a food-focused day trip.

The verdict: is the Mercure Newcastle good for families?

Yes. The Mercure Newcastle gets the things that matter right for families with teenagers. We had space to spread out and beds we didn’t want to leave, plus food and coffee good enough to have us scheming about a return visit.

It’s not a resort with a long list of family entertainment facilities, and families looking for a full-scale holiday complex with multiple pools and organised activities may want to look elsewhere. Its appeal is as a comfortable, well-positioned city hotel with practical accommodation options, good food and easy access to Newcastle’s attractions.

With the best of Newcastle right on the doorstep, it’s an easy, affordable and welcoming base. My teens came home relaxed and well fed, and I came home with only a fraction of the usual eye rolls. I’d call that a win.

→ Check rates and availability at Mercure Newcastle

The post Mercure Newcastle review: a teen-friendly family getaway appeared first on boyeatsworld.

Phnom Kulen, Cambodia: From Sacred Temples to Secret Ruins

Aleney de Winter — Mon, 26 Oct 2026 07:49:48 +0000

Photo by K : https://www.pexels.com/photo/forest-with-waterfalls-19143427/%5B/caption%5D

We’ve come from Siem Reap to Phnom Kulen looking for the birthplace of the Khmer Empire. Instead, we find ancient gods, a jungle waterfall, a secret ruin, a surprise guitar gig and a spectacular faceplant in the mud.

Phnom Kulen is Cambodia’s most sacred mountain, rising from the plains north-east of jaw-dropping Siem Reap. Its forested plateau is scattered with ancient temples, Hindu carvings, waterfalls and enormous sandstone sculptures, while beneath the jungle lie the remains of Mahendraparvata, the vast ninth-century city associated with the birth of the Khmer Empire.

This is where King Jayavarman II is traditionally associated with founding the empire in the early ninth century, so naturally Raff wants to know everything. Who was he? Why here? What happened next? How did they build anything up here? In fact, my son has developed such an intense interest in ancient kings I’m beginning to think he’s planning to set up his own court.

This article contains affiliate links.

The River of a Thousand Lingas

Further down the mountain is the River of a Thousand Lingas, a sacred riverbed carved with more than a thousand lingas, along with images of Hindu gods. The carvings date back to the 11th century and were designed to sanctify the water as it flowed over them, with the river carrying that sacred blessing downstream.

Our guide explains the significance with a perfectly straight face while Raff and I exchange increasingly stoic smiles. It’s a remarkable bit of ancient Khmer engineering and religion, but there’s really no dignified way to stand around discussing a thousand stone dicks with a teenage boy. Or his immature mum.

And this is just one of the ancient sites scattered across the plateau. There’s Srah Damrei, where enormous sandstone animals, including the famous Stone Elephant, sit among the jungle. Rong Chen is the remains of an ancient mountain temple, while the vast archaeological landscape of Mahendraparvata reveals just how ambitious the Khmer civilisation was more than a thousand years ago.

You could spend days exploring it all.

We have one night.

Preah Ang Thom and the reclining Buddha

At the tippy top of the mountain sits Preah Ang Thom, a working pagoda and one of Phnom Kulen’s most important pilgrimage sites.

The approach is lined with all manner of temple guardians and fantastical beasts, with nagas curling along the stairs, lions, tigers and, well, no bears… but all sorts of other wonderfully weird figures, from gaudy Garudas and dragons to mermaid-ish creatures popping out of fountains and shrines. It is gloriously over the top.

Then we reach the main attraction.

The reclining Buddha is more than eight metres long, carved straight into the top of a huge sandstone boulder. The rock is the Buddha. Someone stood up here and carved the whole bloody thing out of it. And people are still coming to worship him. Incense curls through the air, offerings are piled around the shrine, and a steady stream of people stops to pray.

The reclining Buddha is more than eight metres long, carved straight into the top of a huge sandstone boulder. The rock is the Buddha. Someone stood up here back in the 16th century and carved the whole bloody thing out of it, chipping away until a serene face emerged from the stone, eyes closed and head resting on his hand as though he’d lain down for a nap and simply never got up again.

A small pagoda, Preah Ang Thom, has since been built up around him to keep off the rain, and its walls are painted in vivid blues with celestial figures floating above his head, scattering flowers down over him like confetti. Get up close and you’ll notice his face is flecked with tiny squares of gold leaf, pressed onto his cheeks and brow by worshippers hoping a little of his good fortune rubs off.

The stone underneath has been worn smooth and glossy by centuries of hands. And people are still coming to worship him. Incense curls through the air, offerings are piled around the shrine and a steady stream of people stops to pray. Lotus flowers, red cloth and folded riel notes are tucked in beside his head, and families kneel together on the mats before bowing low and shuffling back out into the heat. We’re not just wandering around another ancient ruin, ticking off another temple. This is very much a place where people still come to practice their faith.

So we join them, a monk blessing us and tying lurid red strings around our wrists. At this rate we’ll need an extra suitcase for all the good karma we’ll be carting home.

Which is handy because a ranger, organised by our InsideAsia team, then drags us straight into the jungle. Eek.

Into the Phnom Kulen jungle

And yeah, this is a proper jungle, not an orderly trek where you follow a neat path between numbered signs. We scramble over rocks, duck beneath branches and pick our way through thick green growth, sometimes following a rough track, sometimes just a few stones that suggest other people have been this way before us.

We’re crossing the massive Mahendraparvata sandstone plateau, the ninth-century cradle of the Khmer Empire. What looks like wild jungle today was once a sprawling urban landscape, with temples, reservoirs, roads and settlements spread across the mountain.

Before long, we’re sweaty, a little feral and feeling rather like real explorers. So much so we half expect Lara Croft to leap out from behind a tree, with a pack of angry stone temple guardians in hot pursuit… right up until we stumble across a family doing their laundry.

Nothing quite kills the Tomb Raider fantasy like coming across someone rinsing their socks.

Then we hear the Phnom Kulen waterfall. A few makeshift bamboo pole bridges, wooden walkways and boulders later, and we’re standing in its natural pools. It’s less lost jungle paradise and more Cambodian pool party, with kids splashing everywhere and monks picking their way through the shallows, saffron robes hitched above their knees.

Peeking through the trees are the tumbledown ruins of Prasat Krol Romeas. A centuries-old temple that keeps watch over a waterfall. One minute I’m crashing through the jungle channelling my inner Angelina Jolie. Next I’m watching the locals do cannonballs beside an ancient Khmer ruin. If only we had time to join them.

Phum Borann Village

But we have places to be and lunch to devour. We’re whisked off to Phum Borann Village by our wonderful InsideAsia crew, who by now have become more travel buds than tour guides and drivers. We’re staying the night at a quiet village stay beside the river.

The road is dusty, ramshackle stilt houses line the river, random chickens wander wherever they please, and children race between the houses as we pass. Then, almost hidden among it all, we spot the little resort. It’s intimate and pretty, with a lotus pond at its centre and a handful of timber bungalows scattered around it. Our own is right by the river, with nothing much between us and the water except a few trees and, as evening falls, the noisy chorus of frogs.

We devour a lunch of simple but delicious local delights and fresh fruit at the onsite restaurant, then take a stroll into the village.

It takes no time before a couple of local kids decide Raff is climbing equipment, with one scaling him like a coconut palm. It happens everywhere we go, in every country and in every language. Small children take one look at my son and see a jungle gym.

Our InsideAsia guide comes to his rescue and invites us on a secret afternoon side quest.

Who can say no to a side quest?

Poeng Tbal, a secret ruin in the Phnom Kulen jungle

The jungle of the Phnom Kulen plateau forces us to earn our passage. For several kilometres, we trek through a blur of thick forest, tangled vines and humid heat that clings to our skin. We’re crossing the massive Mahendraparvata sandstone plateau, yet there isn’t a single soul or tourist sign in sight.

It feels like a true Secret Squirrel operation, like we’re walking completely off the edge of the map. The trail gives way to a deeply secluded, moss-covered ravine, and the modern world vanishes. We’ve reached Poeng Tbal.

Towering, bus-sized sandstone boulders lean into each other like ancient giants, creating a natural, cave-like shelter beneath the thick jungle canopy. They’re draped in velvety moss and softened by ferns and tangled greenery, making the whole place feel oddly whimsical and impossibly pretty for something so ancient.

Etched directly into the stone is Sadashiva, the supreme five-faced manifestation of Shiva, representing the five cosmic elements of the universe. Next to him, Shiva and his consort Uma ride atop his sacred bull, Nandi, while a row of seven bearded ascetics sit in eternal meditation. It is mind-blowing to think that this artwork has survived, exposed to the elements, since the 800s AD.

On the cavern floor lie massive, hollowed-out sandstone pedestals that once held sacred lingas, long since lost to time. Looking closely at the surrounding rock walls, more than 100 ancient square holes are chiselled into the stone, the phantom footprints of wooden beams that supported the roofs of hermit cells more than a thousand years ago.

It is so quiet that it feels like absolutely no one else even knows it is here.

Until Raff pulls out his guitar.

While the rest of us wander deeper into the shadows, exploring the silent crevices of the forgotten hermitage, the cavern suddenly fills with the jangling sound of guitar. Raff is sitting back on the ancient stone, strumming melodies into the cavernous air, a modern minstrel offering a concert to ninth-century deities.

Because, honestly, who doesn’t want to play for the gods?

And then, just as he finishes his song, thunder cracks overhead like applause, followed by a fierce tropical downpour that comes hammering through the jungle, turning everything around us into a blur of rain and rushing water. We’re trapped, huddled beneath the huge overhanging rocks, while the rain pounds down around us.

I fear the gods are pissed at the noise, but the local ranger tells us they just want an encore.

So he and our InsideAsia guide settle in beside Raff, encouraging him to play another song. Our on hold, the afternoon turns into a surreal, impromptu concert for the gods, the guides and one rather damp parent.

Eventually, the downpour eases to a drip, leaving the jungle glistening and the air heavy with the scent of rich, wet earth. We pack up and begin the long trek back, navigating several kilometres of slick, rain-soaked bush track towards the safety of our van.

We make it… almost. Barely 50 metres from the van, my foot finds a patch of treacherous, slick Cambodian mud. Before my brain can register the slip, I’m airborne, landing with a heavy, humiliating splash directly into a giant puddle of jungle soup. My majestic jungle explorer persona evaporates instantly.

FML!

To protect the van’s upholstery, I’m unceremoniously wrapped like a human burrito in a cheap, disposable raincoat. I spend the entire drive back to our digs sitting in plastic-wrapped silence, mentally preparing for the monumental task of scrubbing the sacred, thousand-year-old mud of Poeng Tbal out of my every orifice.

By late afternoon the whole place has gone soft and golden. Old-school lanterns start glowing on our balcony and dinner arrives, made with local produce.

There is something particularly lovely about eating in a place this remote, with the river beside us and the sounds of the village drifting through the trees. Although, admittedly, not quite as lovely as being mud-free and sucking back a not-bad-at-all piña colada as the afternoon slips into evening, in an attempt to ease my wounded pride after my muddy afternoon faceplant.

Where to stay near Phnom Kulen

For our overnight village stay, we chose Phum Borann Village, a small village stay among the houses and waterways of the local community. Its timber bungalows sit beside the river, with a lotus pond and onsite restaurant serving home-cooked meals. It’s a chance to experience a little village life rather than simply checking into a conventional hotel.

→ Check rates and availability at Phum Borann

Planning a visit to Phnom Kulen

Phnom Kulen is around 50 to 60 kilometres from Siem Reap and makes a popular day trip from the city, although staying overnight gives you more time to explore the mountain and surrounding villages.

The main attractions include Preah Ang Thom and its giant reclining Buddha, Phnom Kulen waterfall, the River of a Thousand Lingas and the archaeological remains of Mahendraparvata. The mountain also has more remote sites including Srah Damrei, the Stone Elephant, and Rong Chen.

If you’re planning to venture beyond the main attractions, particularly into the jungle or to remote ruins such as Poeng Tbal, go with a local guide or ranger. Trails can be rough and slippery after rain, and sturdy shoes are a very good idea.

Phnom Kulen is a sacred place, so dress respectfully when visiting Preah Ang Thom and other religious sites.

Entry to Phnom Kulen

Phnom Kulen is separate from Angkor Archaeological Park, so your Angkor Pass won’t get you in. There is a separate Phnom Kulen entrance fee of US$20 for foreign visitors, payable at the mountain. The main road up the mountain is also one-way, with access up in the morning and down later in the day, so don’t rock up at lunchtime and expect to breeze to the top.

When to visit Phnom Kulen

The landscape is at its lushest towards the end of the wet season, when the waterfall is flowing strongly, although expect slippery trails and the occasional tropical downpour.

Looking for more Cambodia travel info and inspo? We’ve got you

What to Expect from Cambodian Cuisine
Thinsg to do in Siem Reap with teens
Silk Island by Vespa: Exploring Koh Dach from Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh: What to Eat, See and Do in Cambodia’s Capital
Things to Do in Kep, Cambodia,from crab feasts to jungle trails
Things to do in Kampot, Cambodia
Mount Bokor: Finding gods and ghosts on Cambodia’s strangest mountain
Things to do in Siem Reap with Teens
Lum Orng: Siem Reap’s Unmissable Farm-to-Table Feast
Wellness Experiences in Cambodia
The best Siem Reap temples with kids
Cambodia with Kids – 19 Smart Tips for your Family Trip
The best things to do in Siem Reap with Kids

The post Phnom Kulen, Cambodia: From Sacred Temples to Secret Ruins appeared first on boyeatsworld.

Handlery Union Square Hotel, San Francisco: A Downtown Hotel with a Heated Pool

Aleney de Winter — Mon, 19 Oct 2026 00:43:40 +0000

A heated outdoor pool, a prime spot near Union Square and a family-owned hotel business with a century of history. The Handlery Union Square Hotel offers a different take on a San Francisco stay.

In a city dominated by big hotel chains, there’s something rather lovely about a hotel where the family whose name is on the door is still running the show. The Handlery Union Square Hotel has been welcoming guests to San Francisco for more than 75 years, but the family’s hotel story began in nearby Vallejo in 1928, and the centenary celebrations are already on the horizon.

It’s a story of grit and good timing… and a family that’s made looking after guests its business for generations.

But before we get into that, let’s talk about the practical stuff. Where you’ll sleep, how easy it is to get around and, of course, why the kids will make a beeline for that heated outdoor pool the minute you get back.

Why stay at the Handlery Union Square Hotel

But before we get to the history, there’s the small matter of where you’ll sleep, how you’ll get around and why it’s worth booking.

Just steps from Union Square, the Handlery has a pretty compelling trick up its sleeve. In downtown San Francisco, that’s quite a find, particularly if you’re travelling with kids who would happily spend the afternoon in the water after a day of pounding the hills.

Just a block from Union Square, the Handlery has another rather compelling trick up its sleeve: a heated outdoor pool, open year-round in the middle of downtown San Francisco. It’s a rare find in a city better known for its hills and fog than its swimming weather and a welcome place for kids to burn off energy after a day of sightseeing.

The location helps, too. The Powell Street cable car turnaround is about a five-minute walk away, as is BART, which connects with San Francisco International Airport. There’s little need to hire a car, and when you’re ready to put your feet up, there’s a free sauna and a 24-hour gym. Families can spread out in rooms with two queen beds or a family suite, while couples can treat themselves to a balcony room or the Rooftop Garden Suite with its private terrace. And in a city where plenty of hotels still sneak a resort fee onto the bill, the Handlery doesn’t charge one.

Then there’s that story. Here’s how it all began.

From hats to hotels

Harry Handlery’s road to hotels began in a hat shop. In 1902, aged 14, he left Ukraine and spent three weeks crossing the Atlantic in steerage, arriving in America without a word of English. After joining his older brother in Boston, he headed west to California, where he found work in a hat shop in Vallejo. Before long, the shop was his.

Hats, it turned out, were only the beginning. In 1928, Harry and two investors bought the Casa de Vallejo, and with it he set down the philosophy his family still swears by: “To have every guest not question why they stayed here, but to question why they didn’t stay here before.”

Looking after people came naturally to Harry, and so, it turned out, did spotting a good opportunity. And, as demand for accommodation near California’s military bases grew, so did Harry’s business. In 1948, he bought the Hotel Stewart on Geary Street, built in 1908 as San Francisco rebuilt after the 1906 earthquake and fire.

By 1954, the teenager who had crossed the Atlantic in steerage was running 26 hotels across California, and Handlery Hotels had grown to become the largest family-owned hotel company in the world.

Harry’s son Paul had ideas of his own. After studying hotel management at Cornell University and serving in the US Army during World War II, he returned to the family busines, then build and opened the Handlery Motor Inn next door to the Hotel Stewart in 1964.

Paul wanted to create something new, and the Handlery Motor Inn offered modern features that were quite unusual at the time, including in-room coffee makers, bedside remote controls for the television and radio, lighted vanity areas and balconies. There was also a heated outdoor pool in the courtyard, a feature that remains one of the hotel’s biggest drawcards today.

Four generations and counting

Jon, Jack and Laura Handlery © Handlery Hotels

Today, the fourth generation of Handlery hoteliers is helping run the business. Jon Handlery became general manager of the San Francisco hotel in 1996 and president of Handlery Hotels in 2008. His son Jack is now general manager of the Union Square property, while his daughter Laura also works in the hotel.

Harry and Paul have been reimagined as ducks in the hotel’s own playful online Duck-umentary. Harry Ducklery and Papa Paul Ducklery set off from a pond in Ukraine, travel west and eventually find their way into the hotel business. It’s an unexpectedly whimsical take on a century of family history, and the ducks’ adventures didn’t stop there. Guests can pick up a Ducklery duck of their own, take it on their travels and upload photos to the hotel’s interactive duck map, where ducks from around the world plot their own journeys.

The hotel closed its doors for 16 months during the pandemic. Convention business was slower to return than leisure travel, but the family is optimistic about San Francisco’s future and the approaching anniversary.

“My family has been welcoming guests to San Francisco for generations,” Jack says. “Seeing the growth and transformation of the city coming out of COVID has been an incredible thing to witness, and I’m optimistic about where we’re headed. I look forward to welcoming more guests through our doors as we approach our 100th anniversary in 2028.”

Inside the Handlery Union Square Hotel

Premier Queen Room © Handlery Union Square Hotel

The hotel’s 377 rooms occupy two quite different buildings, which makes choosing a room worth a little thought. Rooms in the Historic Section, in the old Hotel Stewart, retain the ornate details of their Victorian-era architecture, while the larger Premier Section rooms, in Paul’s former Motor Inn, come with upgraded amenities and, in many cases, a balcony overlooking the city or the courtyard pool.

Both sections have the essentials covered, including a flat-screen TV, mini fridge, complimentary coffee and tea, and free Wi-Fi.

For families, the Handlery is a good option. Book a Premier Queen x Queen room, with two queen beds and the pool close at hand, or one of the family suites, which gives everyone a little more room to spread out.

Travelling as a couple? A Premier King, with its pillow-top king bed and, in some cases, a private balcony, is another option. And if it’s a special occasion, the hotel’s suites are worth considering. The San Francisco Suite pairs a king bedroom with a separate lounge and mini kitchen, while the Rooftop Garden Suite comes with its own living area, wet bar and private terrace overlooking the city. It’s a spot to enjoy a glass of Napa bubbles as the sun sets over Union Square.

The family calls the Garden Suite “Grandma’s Room” in honour of Jon Handlery’s grandmother, who was a long-term guest.

That pool (and a few other perks)

San Francisco isn’t exactly known for its outdoor swimming pools, which makes the Handlery’s heated courtyard pool a bit of a find. Kept at around 27°C and open year-round, it’s surrounded by sun loungers and makes a lovely spot to kick back after a day of exploring. It might not be big enough for serious lap swimming, but if your kids are anything like mine, they’ll be in there before you’ve had a chance to put your feet up.

Grown-ups get their treats too. The dry sauna in the Premier Section is free for guests, although it’s worth reserving a session. The 24-hour fitness centre has treadmills, ellipticals, bikes and free weights for anyone determined to keep up their routine.

The concierge team can help with everything from restaurant bookings and theatre tickets to sightseeing tours. The business centre offers free boarding pass printing, and the hotel welcomes dogs, so four-legged family members can come too.

It’s worth noting that the hotel doesn’t currently list an on-site breakfast restaurant, but the surrounding streets have plenty of cafes and bakeries, so you won’t go hungry. Oh, and if you’re driving, covered valet parking is available for an extra cost.

The Handlery’s central San Francisco location

Powell Street Cable Car. Photo by Enrique Cortes on Pexels

One of the Handlery Union Square Hotel’s biggest selling points is its location at 351 Geary Street, a block from Union Square and within easy reach of San Francisco’s cable cars, shopping streets, theatres and major attractions.

The Powell Street cable car turnaround is about a five-minute walk away. Powell Street BART station is also nearby, providing a rail connection to San Francisco International Airport in roughly 30 minutes, depending on the service and journey conditions. For Australian visitors, that’s a useful option if you’d rather avoid hiring a car in the city.

The theatre district is on your doorstep, the shops of Union Square are a stroll away, and Chinatown, the Moscone Center and SFMOMA are all within easy walking distance. Jump on a cable car to explore the city, including Fisherman’s Wharf.

→ Planning a San Francisco trip? Read our guide to why San Francisco deserves a spot on your 2027 travel list

Book your stay at The Handelry Union Square

With its central location and heated outdoor pool, not to mention its warm, personal service, the Handlery Union Square Hotel is the sort of place that makes exploring San Francisco easy, with the city’s shops, cable cars and attractions right on your doorstep.

→ Check rates and availability at Handlery Union Square Hotel, and sign up for the free Handlery Rewards program.

For more California inspiration, tips and travel guides, try these…

San Francisco Travel Guide 2027: Best Things to Do and Where to Stay
30 reasons why California is America’s ultimate family playground
Why the Getty Center is an essential stop on your LA itinerary
52 reasons to spend seven days in Anaheim with kids
48 hours in Joshua Tree, California
United Economy Plus Sydney to Los Angeles Review

The post Handlery Union Square Hotel, San Francisco: A Downtown Hotel with a Heated Pool appeared first on boyeatsworld.

San Francisco Travel Guide 2027: Best Things to Do and Where to Stay

Aleney de Winter — Sun, 18 Oct 2026 23:58:12 +0000

Photo by Chris Brignola on Unsplash

San Francisco is ready for its comeback, with the Golden Gate Bridge turning 90 in 2027, a food scene worth travelling for and plenty of reasons to look beyond the usual landmarks. Here’s what to see and where to stay.

San Francisco has had a rough few years in the headlines, but the City by the Bay is ready for its close-up again. From Alcatraz and secret slides to singing sea walls and a family-owned Union Square hotel that’s been welcoming guests since 1948, there are plenty of reasons to give the city more than a quick stop on your California road trip in 2027. And with the Golden Gate Bridge turning 90, there’s a rather big birthday to help blow out the candles for.

Why Visit San Francisco in 2027? The City Is Back on the Map

Photo by Stephen Leonardi on Pexels

San Francisco has had a rough run in the press. Since the pandemic, a handful of viral videos and gloomy headlines painted a picture of a city in freefall, and plenty of travellers took it at face value and started flying straight past. The reality was always far less dramatic. Like every big city, San Francisco had its challenges, but the cable cars kept clanging up the hills, the sourdough kept coming out of the ovens and the fog kept rolling in over the Golden Gate.

And today? The city is firmly on the up. Crime has fallen to levels not seen in decades, visitors are pouring back in and Union Square is finding its feet again. Better still, 2027 brings a couple of very good excuses to visit. On 27 May, the Golden Gate Bridge turns 90, and San Francisco is getting ready to celebrate. It’s also 60 years since the 1967 Summer of Love, and the city is marking the milestone with a flower-filled float at the Rose Parade on New Year’s Day, the kick-off to a year celebrating the counterculture that still colours its art, music and neighbourhoods. Consider this your invitation to help blow out the candles.

So here’s your nudge to give San Francisco another look. From its famous landmarks and lesser-known corners to a hotel that’s been welcoming travellers for generations, there’s plenty of reason to stay a little longer.

Is San Francisco Safe to Visit in 2027?

Photo by Gantavya Bhatt on Unsplash

There’s no denying COVID hit San Francisco hard. Empty streets and gloomy headlines made international news, and the city acquired a reputation that proved difficult to shake.

Things started to shift when Daniel Lurie became mayor in January 2025. A native San Franciscan who founded an anti-poverty charity before entering politics, Lurie has made public safety a priority and pushed to bring visitors back to the city.

The numbers offer reasons for optimism. According to California Governor Gavin Newsom’s office, homicides in San Francisco fell to a 70-year low in 2025, car break-ins dropped to their lowest level in 22 years and overall reported crime fell by nearly 30%. Visitors are returning, too. The city welcomed 23.7 million visitors in 2025, and official forecasts put 2026 at 24.2 million.

Of course, no big city is without its challenges, and some neighbourhoods call for more awareness than others. But for visitors spending their days exploring the waterfront, riding cable cars, wandering Chinatown and discovering the city’s famous landmarks, San Francisco has plenty to offer.

Jack Handlery has watched the city weather the downturn and begin to recover. His family’s Union Square hotel has welcomed travellers since 1948, giving him a front-row seat to the changing fortunes of one of the city’s key visitor districts.

“San Francisco faces many of the same issues as other major cities, but I think the perception from COVID has been difficult to shake,” Jack says. “From a visitor’s perspective, the city and our main tourism areas are safe, vibrant and there is still so much that makes San Francisco worth visiting.”

Best things to do in San Francisco

clement-proust-ATAYFCjAdk0-unsplash-1000.jpg

Plenty of travellers treat San Francisco as a quick stop on the way to the Pacific Coast Highway or Yosemite. They’re missing out. This hilly, fog-prone city has iconic landmarks, excellent food and plenty of odd little surprises, and it’s easy to explore on foot, by cable car or by ferry.

Golden Gate Bridge: San Francisco’s famous orange icon

Yes, it’s the obvious one, but nothing quite prepares you for that International Orange span rising out of the fog. Walk or cycle across it (the main span alone is almost 2.7 kilometres), then head to Battery Spencer on the Marin side for the classic view, or picnic on the lawns at Crissy Field. With the bridge celebrating its 90th birthday on 27 May 2027, there’s never been a better year to help blow out the candles.

Alcatraz Island: Inside the infamous island prison

The ferry ride across the bay is part of the experience, but the audio tour of the old cell house is what stays with you. Narrated by former inmates and guards, it’s a gripping account of life behind bars for adults and older kids alike. Tickets can sell out weeks ahead during peak periods, so book through Alcatraz City Cruises as soon as your dates are locked in. The night tour adds an extra dose of atmosphere.

San Francisco cable cars: The ride is the attraction

There’s a reason people still queue for these things. San Francisco’s cable cars are the world’s last manually operated cable car system, and grabbing a spot on the running board is a thrill in itself. Join the Powell Street line at the Powell and Market turnaround to watch the operators swing the cars around by hand, then hang on for the ride towards the waterfront.

Fisherman’s Wharf and Pier 39: Sea lions and sourdough bowls

Fisherman’s Wharf is unapologetically touristy, but there’s a reason people come. At Pier 39, the sea lions bark, shove each other around on the floating platforms and generally make a racket. When you’ve had your fill of the show, grab a clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl. It’s a tourist staple, sure, but it’s worth trying.

Golden Gate Park: Museums, gardens and room to roam

Bigger than New York’s Central Park, Golden Gate Park could easily fill a day. The California Academy of Sciences packs a natural history museum, aquarium, planetarium and four-storey rainforest dome under one roof, while the Japanese Tea Garden offers a quieter change of pace. There’s also the de Young Museum for art lovers, plus plenty of paths and lawns if you’d rather take things slowly.

San Francisco Chinatown: Bakeries, dim sum and side streets

The oldest Chinatown in North America is worth exploring beyond its famous entrance gates. Wander beneath the lanterns of Grant Avenue, duck into bakeries for egg tarts and pork buns, and make time for dim sum. The best approach is to arrive hungry and follow your nose down the side streets.

Lombard Street and the Painted Ladies: Two San Francisco classics

Lombard Street’s steep, twisting block is best tackled on foot, where you can appreciate the gardens and hairpin bends without worrying about the traffic. Then head to Alamo Square for the familiar view of the Painted Ladies, the row of pastel Victorian houses with the city skyline behind them.

The Exploratorium: Science you can actually play with

On Pier 15 along the Embarcadero, the Exploratorium makes science, art and human perception seriously hands-on. With hundreds of interactive exhibits, it’s the kind of place where adults can lose an hour playing with things they initially promised to help the kids understand. The waterfront setting is another reason to linger.

Coit Tower: Murals and views from Telegraph Hill

Coit Tower has been part of the San Francisco skyline since 1933. Inside, its Depression-era murals depict scenes of life in California, while the tower offers sweeping views across the city and bay. For a more interesting approach, walk up via the Filbert Steps, where steep staircases wind past gardens and houses tucked into the hillside.

Hidden gems in San Francisco

Photo by Maydonshoots on Pexels

Once you’ve ticked off the big names, it’s time to dig a little deeper. These are the spots that give San Francisco its character, from a vintage arcade crammed with mechanical oddities to a staircase covered in colourful mosaics and a stretch of coastline that feels a world away from the city streets.

Lands End and the Sutro Baths: Coastal walks and swimming-pool ruins

At San Francisco’s western edge, the Lands End trail winds through cypress trees above the Pacific, with views across the water and back towards the Golden Gate Bridge. Along the way, you can detour to the ruins of the Sutro Baths, once a vast public swimming complex built in the late 19th century. Today, its crumbling walls and concrete foundations make a striking place to explore, especially when the waves are crashing against the rocks below. Wear comfortable shoes and allow time to wander rather than treating it as a quick photo stop.

Musée Mécanique: An old-school arcade full of oddities

Down at Pier 45 at Fisherman’s Wharf, Musée Mécanique is packed with antique arcade games, mechanical fortune tellers and coin-operated curiosities. Entry is free, so bring a pocketful of quarters and see how long you can resist the temptation to try everything. Some machines date back more than a century, and watching them clatter into action is part of the fun. It’s a wonderfully eccentric stop for kids and grown-ups, particularly anyone who remembers when entertainment didn’t require a screen.

Seward Street Slides: Two concrete slides and a lot of speed

Hidden in a small park in the Castro, these steep concrete slides are a San Francisco institution. Bring a piece of cardboard to sit on, then launch yourself down the slopes and try to look dignified at the bottom. The slides are free to use, although opening arrangements can vary, so check access before making a special trip. It’s a brief, gloriously silly diversion that makes a nice change from museums and sightseeing.

16th Avenue Tiled Steps: A colourful climb with a view

What began as a neighbourhood art project has turned an ordinary staircase in the Inner Sunset into a 163-step mosaic of sea creatures, birds, flowers and stars. The tiles form a sweeping design that becomes clearer as you climb, making the staircase as much about the journey as the view from the top. If you have the energy, continue to nearby Grand View Park for a panorama across the city, the bay and the surrounding hills. It’s a lovely detour for anyone who enjoys discovering the details that make a neighbourhood special.

Fort Point: Get right underneath the Golden Gate Bridge

Most visitors admire the Golden Gate Bridge from a distance, but Fort Point lets you see the enormous structure from directly below. This brick fort dates to the 1850s and was built to defend San Francisco’s harbour. Inside, you can explore its historic rooms and learn about its military past, while outside the bridge’s steelwork looms overhead in a way that’s difficult to appreciate from the usual viewpoints. Film buffs may also recognise the location from Alfred Hitchcock’s Vertigo. Check the fort’s opening hours before visiting, as it isn’t open every day.

Wave Organ: Listen to the bay make its own music

At the end of a jetty in the Marina, the Wave Organ is an unusual acoustic sculpture that uses pipes positioned at different heights to capture the movement of the water. As the waves move in and out, the pipes produce a series of gurgles, groans and watery notes. The sounds are subtle rather than concert-hall material, but that’s part of the appeal. Visit around high tide for the best chance of hearing it, and enjoy the views across the bay while you’re there.

Walt Disney Family Museum: Meet the man behind the mouse

Tucked inside a converted army barracks in the Presidio, the Walt Disney Family Museum tells the story of Walt himself rather than his characters. Founded by his daughter Diane Disney Miller, it traces his journey from a Missouri farm boy to Hollywood and the creation of Disneyland through early sketches, animation art, family photos and a gleaming collection of Oscars. Until 18 April 2027, the Awaking Beauty exhibition celebrates Eyvind Earle, the artist behind the distinctive look of Sleeping Beauty. The museum is open Thursday to Sunday, so plan your visit accordingly.

Balmy Alley: Murals with something to say

The Mission District is known for its street art, but Balmy Alley is one of the best places to see it concentrated in a single stretch. Its walls are covered in colourful murals addressing everything from community life and cultural identity to politics and social justice. The artwork has a long history of reflecting the concerns of local residents, so there’s more to it than a photogenic backdrop. Take your time looking at the details, then explore the surrounding neighbourhood for taquerias, cafés and more murals.

Presidio Tunnel Tops: A park above the traffic

Built over the highway tunnels leading towards the Golden Gate Bridge, Presidio Tunnel Tops turned a stretch of infrastructure into open parkland with sweeping views across the bay. There are lawns for picnics, paths for wandering and a nature play area designed for children to explore. It’s also a useful place to take a break between sightseeing stops, particularly if you’re visiting the Presidio or heading towards the bridge. Pack something to eat, find a spot with a view and give yourself permission to sit still for a while.

The parrots of Telegraph Hill: Look up for the feathered locals

Telegraph Hill is best known for Coit Tower and its views, but keep your ears open as you climb the Filbert Steps and you may hear the squawks of the wild cherry-headed conures that live in the area. The flock became famous through the documentary The Wild Parrots of Telegraph Hill, and spotting the birds among the trees and rooftops adds an unexpected twist to the walk. They’re wild animals, so sightings aren’t guaranteed, but the leafy stairways and gardens make the climb worthwhile regardless. Bring your camera, keep an eye on the branches and don’t forget to look back at the views.

Where to eat in San Francisco: Sourdough, burritos and more

Photo by Abhishek Navlakha on pexels

San Francisco takes its food seriously, and eating your way around the city is part of the experience.From hefty Mission-style burritos and Italian-American classics in North Beach to Chinatown bakeries and the city’s famous sourdough, there’s plenty to seek out between sightseeing stops. You don’t need to book every meal, either. Some of the best discoveries happen when you spot a busy bakery or follow the smell of something good down a side street.

Try a Mission-style burrito in the Mission District

These hefty, foil-wrapped burritos are a San Francisco original, typically packed with rice, beans, meat or vegetables, salsa and other fillings. The Mission District is the place to try one, with long-standing taquerias serving burritos substantial enough to qualify as a second carry-on bag. While you’re there, explore the neighbourhood’s colourful murals and stop for a coffee along Valencia Street. Come hungry, because these aren’t the sort of burritos you finish in three polite bites.

Eat your way around Chinatown

San Francisco’s Chinatown is a brilliant place to graze, whether you’re after a quick snack or a full meal. Look for dim sum, roast meats, steamed buns, egg tarts and bakeries turning out sweet treats throughout the day. Grant Avenue is a good starting point, but wander into the smaller side streets to find more modest eateries and shops serving the local community. It’s worth taking your time and ordering a few different things rather than committing to just one dish.

Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory: See how the fortunes get folded

Down the narrow Ross Alley in Chinatown, the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory offers a glimpse of fortune cookies being made by hand. Watch the warm, flat cookies being folded around their little paper messages before they cool and crisp up, then buy a bag to take away. The factory is small and the visit doesn’t take long, but it’s an entertaining stop while exploring Chinatown’s backstreets. Just be prepared to squeeze past other curious visitors if it’s busy.

Discover Italian food in North Beach

North Beach has long been San Francisco’s Italian-American heartland, with old-school cafés, bakeries, pizzerias and trattorias lining its streets. Order a plate of pasta, try a slice of pizza or pick up focaccia for a picnic in Washington Square Park. The neighbourhood is also a good place to linger over coffee or finish a meal with a pastry. Save room for cannoli, because arriving in an Italian neighbourhood and skipping dessert would be a rookie mistake.

Taste San Francisco at the Ferry Building

The Ferry Building Marketplace is a handy introduction to the city’s food scene, with artisan producers, bakeries, cafés and restaurants gathered under one historic roof. Visit on a Saturday for the farmers market, when local produce and prepared food spill out along the waterfront. It’s a good place to sample something as you browse, pick up picnic supplies or put together an easy lunch without committing to a sit-down meal. The bay views are a bonus.

Follow the sourdough trail

San Francisco’s tangy sourdough bread is practically a local celebrity, thanks in part to the region’s distinctive fermentation culture. Try it fresh from a bakery, order clam chowder in a bread bowl at the waterfront or bring home a loaf if your luggage allows. Boudin Bakery is one of the best-known names associated with the city’s sourdough tradition, and its Fisherman’s Wharf location makes it easy to combine a taste with a wander around the waterfront.

Seek out seafood by the bay

San Francisco’s waterfront is a natural place to look for seafood, from Dungeness crab when it’s in season to cioppino, the Italian-American seafood stew associated with the city’s fishing heritage. Fisherman’s Wharf is the obvious starting point, but the Ferry Building and neighbourhood restaurants offer other options if you’d prefer to escape the busiest tourist spots. Menus and prices vary, so check what’s in season and choose somewhere that suits your appetite and budget.

Leave room for a little spontaneity

San Francisco also has a strong café culture, creative cocktail bars and restaurants serving cuisines from around the world. Whether you’re after a quick lunch between attractions or a memorable dinner, leave some room in your itinerary for an unplanned stop. Some of the best travel memories begin with being hungry in the right neighbourhood.

Where to Stay in San Francisco: Handlery Union Square Hotel

A heated outdoor pool in downtown San Francisco? Yep, they have one. The Handlery Union Square Hotel has been welcoming guests for generations, and the same family is still at the helm as the business nears its 100th anniversary in 2028. It’s just steps from Union Square, close to the Powell Street cable cars and BART, which runs straight to the airport.

The pool stays at a toasty 27°C year-round, which is a fairly persuasive argument for booking a hotel in a city better known for its fog than its sunshine. There’s also a free sauna open to all ages, though children must be accompanied by an adult.

With room options for couples, families and solo travellers, plus a central location that works well for business trips, the Handlery has broad appeal. The heated pool is a welcome bonus after a day of sightseeing or meetings, there’s private valet parking for anybody wanting to leave a car, and that long family history adds a personal touch.

→ Read the full story of the Handlery family and its San Francisco hotel

Ready to make San Francisco your next stop? Check rates and availability at the Handlery Union Square Hotel.

→ Check rates and availability at Handlery Union Square Hotel

San Francisco Travel Tips: Need to know

US Entry Requirements for International Visitors

Entry requirements depend on your nationality and circumstances. Eligible travellers from countries participating in the US Visa Waiver Program generally need an approved Electronic System for Travel Authorisation (ESTA) before travelling. Other visitors may need a visa. Check the official US Customs and Border Protection website before booking, and apply through the official government service rather than a third-party website charging additional fees.

Getting to San Francisco

San Francisco International Airport receives flights from major cities across North America, Europe, Asia and the Pacific. Depending on where you’re travelling from, you may be able to fly nonstop or connect through another major hub. Compare routes and fares before booking, and allow extra time for immigration and customs on arrival.

Getting Around San Francisco

Leave the hire car until you head out of the city, because parking is pricey. Between walking, the cable cars, Muni buses and trams and BART trains, you’ll cover everything you need, and comfortable shoes are a must on those hills.

When Is the Best Time to Visit San Francisco?

San Francisco’s weather famously does its own thing. Summer is often cool and foggy, while September and October tend to bring the warmest, sunniest days of the year. Whenever you visit, pack layers, because the temperature can swing wildly from one neighbourhood to the next.

Booking San Francisco Attractions and Hotels

Alcatraz tickets regularly sell out weeks in advance, so lock yours in as soon as your dates are confirmed. If you’re planning around the Golden Gate Bridge’s 90th birthday on 27 May 2027, book your accommodation early.

→ Check out tours and availabilties

Tipping in San Francisco

Tipping is customary in the US. At sit-down restaurants, around 18 to 20% is a useful guide, while a dollar or two per drink is common at bars. Check your bill for any service charge already included.

For more California inspiration, tips and travel guides, try these…

Handlery Union Square Hotel, San Francisco: A Downtown Hotel with a Heated Pool
30 reasons why California is America’s ultimate family playground
Why the Getty Center is an essential stop on your LA itinerary
52 reasons to spend seven days in Anaheim with kids
48 hours in Joshua Tree, California
United Economy Plus Sydney to Los Angeles Review

The post San Francisco Travel Guide 2027: Best Things to Do and Where to Stay appeared first on boyeatsworld.

Mount Bokor: Finding gods and ghosts on Cambodia’s strangest mountain

Aleney de Winter — Sun, 11 Oct 2026 09:26:42 +0000

We head up Mount Bokor from Kampot, into mist and past a mob of monkeys, to explore the abandoned French colonial ruins of Bokor Hill Station, one of Cambodia’s strangest mountain retreats.

The monkeys are waiting for us.

They lounge along the roadside as we climb Mount Bokor, looking less like curious wildlife and more like a gang of hairy, judgemental bouncers deciding whether we’re getting in or not. I brush my humidity-frizzed hair just in case.

Into the mist on Mount Bokor

Rising above Kampot and within easy reach of Kep, Mount Bokor is close enough to the coast to make a natural addition to a stay in either, yet the higher we climb, the more Cambodia seems to change around us. The road winds higher into the clouds and the temperature drops with every turn. Down in Kampot it is hot and sticky. Up here, it is cooler, and the mist comes and goes without warning.

Bokor Hill Station has had a lot of lives. The French built it in the 1920s as a fancy mountain retreat to escape the heat of the lowlands, the remnants of that grand idea still scattered across the plateau. It came at a terrible cost, with the winding road we’re cruising up carved out of the jungle by forced labour and hundreds of workers dying in the process.

Bokor Hill Station was abandoned during the upheaval of the 1940s, revived as a glamorous escape for wealthy Cambodians in the 1950s and 60s, then seized by the Khmer Rouge in 1972. Their troops held on up here long after the regime fell, fighting Vietnamese forces across the plateau through the 1980s, and the mountain was one of their last strongholds into the early 1990s. After that, locals came up and stripped the buildings of anything worth selling, and the jungle and the mist moved in.

But I digress, as usual, and Raff, who I’ve been rabbiting on at with all this history, stopped listening somewhere around 1925 and is now far more interested in whether the monkeys bite.

Moody, messy and mysterious Mount Bokor

Our bokor adventure was part of a greater Cambodia trip with InsideAsia Tours, who organised the itinerary and took care of all the logistics. And we’re relieved to put it in someone else’s hands because the mountain is in a theatrical mood, flicking from sunshine to rain to mist so thick we can’t see a metre ahead of us, then back again, like a diva who can’t decide what to wear and has tried everything on. Twice.

We stop at the crumbling shell of Damnak Sla Khmao, the Black Palace. The graffiti-strewn colonial ruins of King Norodom Sihanouk’s old summer residence are definitely in need of a slap of paint… and perhaps some windows and the odd complete wall.

Named not for any dark deeds but for the brick and dark timber used to construct it in 1936, it’s giving more grand cottage than palace. Though as we wander through its empty rooms, walls now strewn with graffitied monsters, it’s easy to imagine royal house parties rolling through before the country was turned upside down.

Feeling blue

Lok Yeay Mao, Mount Bokor © Aleney de Winter

Across the road is a colossal seated statue in a cool shade of blue, which, given the temperature up here, I suspect is less of an artistic choice and more of a circulation problem.

At first, we assume it’s a Buddha. We are wrong.

It’s Lok Yeay Mao, a mythical protector heroine, and travellers, hunters and fishermen still stop here to pray for safe passage before tackling the mountain. Because of course it’s a woman who’s been left in charge of making sure everyone gets home safely. She’s a relative newcomer, completed in 2012 and standing 29 metres tall, commissioned by the tycoon behind the mountain’s modern resort development, which feels like a sensible bit of insurance when you’re building a casino on a cliff.

At her feet, musicians play, and the faithful are keeping her well supplied. Pilgrims arrive clutching bunches of pink and white lotus buds, arranging them in tight bouquets on the altar before lighting fistfuls of incense and pressing them into sand trays already bristling with hundreds of sticks.

The smoke drifts up and mingles with the mist until it’s hard to tell where one ends and the other begins, and the air smells sweet and earthy, like a temple that’s made peace with the weather.

Prayers are murmured, sticks are added to the pile and then everyone heads off up the mountain, presumably feeling a little better about the hairpin bends ahead.

There’s also a second shrine covered in many, many phalluses, which I find considerably less reassuring.

They come in every size, from modest wooden carvings to a stone one so large it seems to be making a point. Some are painted red, some are draped in garlands and a few have been dressed in what look like little scarves, which raises more questions than it answers.

These are lingams, symbols of fertility and creative energy with roots in the Hindu worship of Shiva. They’re left as offerings by people hoping for children, good fortune or a healthy harvest, and judging by the sheer number on display, demand is strong. Incense smoke hangs over the whole collection and someone has tucked a few lotus buds in among them, which softens the effect only slightly.

Ghosts of Bokor past

An abandoned Catholic church, the Église du Mont Bokor, looms tall and eerie out of the mist. Built by the French in the early 1920s, it’s one of the few churches in Cambodia to survive the Khmer Rouge, though not without a few scars. The Khmer Rouge used it as barracks and a bunker, knocking a hole through the wall to fire on anyone approaching along the road, and at one point Vietnamese soldiers dug in here too, trading fire with Khmer Rouge troops holed up in the hotel up the hill. The building has since been handed back to the Catholic Church, but for now it stands roofless and hollow, its walls tagged with graffiti, and it is every bit as creepy as you’d hope.

Next comes the grand old Le Bokor Palace Hotel, once a playground for royals and high rollers. It opened in 1925 with a casino where colonial officials and the Cambodian elite drank, danced and gambled their fortunes away, and local legend has it that more than a few who lost everything at the tables walked straight out and threw themselves off the nearby cliff. Later came war, the Khmer Rouge and bullet holes in the walls. It was given a glossy makeover a few years back, complete with Italian bathroom fittings and Spanish tiles, and now stands completely empty, waiting for its next life.

A grand hotel, on a misty mountain, with no guests? All it needs is a pair of creepy twins in the hallway and a caretaker with an axe and a drinking problem. I’ve got my own gruesome twosome, who are siblings rather than twins but are more than capable of being creepy in a hallway, and I can tick off the drinking problem myself, so really, we’re only missing the axe. Somewhere, a horror film producer is checking flights to Phnom Penh.

Who are you going to call?

Bokor’s hotel scene has had almost as many lives as the mountain itself. The original 564-room Thansur Sokha resort at the top is currently closed, while a new 158-room Thansur Sokha has appeared further down the mountain, complete with a restaurant and spa.

→ Check current rates and availability at Thansur Sokha Hotel

The mountain’s reputation as one of the most haunted places in Cambodia means some travellers come up here not in spite of the ghost stories but because of them, with the more intrepid (or unhinged) booking in or even camping at the ruined palace for the night in the hope of a close encounter with God knows what.

I’m all for a spooky day trip but would never attempt staying after dark without a full Ghostbusters kit and a priest on speed dial. In fact, I can assure you that this card-carrying chicken shit will most definitely be back down in Kep well before dark, thanks very much.

Holy moly

Further up the mountain we find Wat Sampov Pram, a gorgeous temple complex with a colourful interior lit up like a discotheque, because why not? It was built by King Monivong in 1924 as a place to pray when he came up to Bokor and, remarkably, remained in use even during the Khmer Rouge occupation.

It’s also known as the Five Boats Pagoda, named for five oddly shaped rocks nearby that are said to resemble sail boats. Legend has it they’re the boats a dragon king gave his daughter, a naga princess, when she married the wandering prince Preah Thong, and the couple sailed them here, treasure and all, to found the kingdom. The sea has since wandered off, but the boats stayed put.

Watching over the temple garden is a golden lady perched on the back of a gaping stone crocodile, wringing out her hair. I believe she is Neang Konghing, the earth goddess, who once wrung so much water from her locks that she washed away an entire demon army sent to distract the Buddha. Given what the humidity has done to my own hair today, I feel a certain kinship.

King Monivong clearly loved it up here, because he never really left. He died on the mountain in 1941 and the temple is said to be his final resting place. He’s not the only thing buried up here, either. In 1929, the Queen Mother had 150 Buddha statues sent up from Phnom Penh and sealed inside a stupa at the temple, giving the mountain a spiritual weight to match its ghost stories, and making it, as far as I can tell, the only place on Bokor more crowded than the monkey-lined road.

The complex sits right on the edge of the cliff, and when the mist parts, the drop down to the coast is enough to make your stomach flip. Nearby is another oversized Buddha, an actual one this time, contemplating the view, or what little of it the mist is letting through.
But Bokor isn’t done with supersizing. A seated Buddha 108 metres tall is being built on a ridge of the mountain, set to become the biggest in Cambodia and one of the tallest on the planet.

And then, Popokvil

As we start to make our retreat down the mountain, Raff pipes up.

“You know what’s missing?”

“A waterfall!”

And then, as if commanded, the mist lifts and there it is, the magnificent Popokvil Waterfall, waiting for us to dip our toes in.

Its name translates roughly to “swirling clouds,” which, after the day we’ve had, feels less like poetry and more like a weather report. The falls tumble over two tiers of wide, flat rock, and after all the rain, they’re in fine form, gushing and frothing their way down the mountainside. We kick off our shoes and pick our way across the slippery stones to the water’s edge, and it is cold. Raff, of course, wades straight in like he’s at Bondi in January.

We sit on the rocks for a while listening to the water and watching the mist creep back in around the edges, then out again. For a place with so many ghosts, it feels surprisingly peaceful, apart from the rumbling of my belly, which we promptly fill with beef lok lak at Popokvil’s restaurant.

Heading back down the mountain to Kep, well ahead of the evening’s hauntings, the monkeys are still there, lounging by the road exactly where we left them and giving us the once-over as we pass.

This time, I don’t bother fixing my hair.

Getting to Mount Bokor

Mount Bokor sits inside Bokor National Park, just outside Kampot on Cambodia’s south coast, and most people visit as a day trip. The park entrance is only a few kilometres from Kampot town, and from there a well-sealed road winds about 32 kilometres up the mountain through forest, switchbacks and, if you’re lucky, a monkey or 20. From a Kampot base, it’s about an hour to the top, and if you’re staying in Kep it roughly another half hour, depending on how often you stop to gawp at the views.

We went with our InsideAsia guide and driver as part of our wider Cambodia trip, which meant someone else was in charge of the hairpin bends. If you’re travelling independently, you can hire a taxi or private driver for the day from Kampot or Kep, or negotiate a day rate with a tuk-tuk driver, although it’s a long, slow climb with plenty of time to appreciate just how chilly it gets up there. Confident riders often take a scooter, but with the mist, the rain and the steep, winding road, it’s not the place to learn.

You can also do Bokor from Phnom Penh, but it is around two and a half to three hours away by road before you even start the climb. You’ll enjoy it far more if you make a weekend of it and base yourself in Kampot or Kep for a night or two to give the mountain the time it deserves.

Whichever way you go, bring a jacket and something for the rain, because Bokor’s weather has a mind of its own. And plan to be back down well before dark. Not because of the ghosts, obviously. Just because.

Looking for more Cambodian info and inspo?

Phnom Penh: What to Eat, See and Do in Cambodia’s Capital
Things to do in Siem Reap with teens
Silk Island by Vespa: Exploring Koh Dach from Phnom Penh
Things to do in Kampot, Cambodia
Phnom Kulen, Cambodia: From Sacred Temples to Secret Ruins
Kep, Cambodia’s sleepy seaside escape
What to Expect from Cambodian Cuisine
Lum Orng: Siem Reap’s Unmissable Farm-to-Table Feast
Wellness Experiences in Cambodia
The best Siem Reap temples with kids
Cambodia with Kids – 19 Smart Tips for your Family Trip
The best things to do in Siem Reap with Kids

The post Mount Bokor: Finding gods and ghosts on Cambodia’s strangest mountain appeared first on boyeatsworld.

Things to Do in Salem with Kids: A Family Guide to Witch City

Aleney de Winter — Sun, 11 Oct 2026 04:52:05 +0000

From pirate treasure and spooky museums to seaside parks and giant cookies, Salem, Massachusetts, is packed with family-friendly fun beyond its witchy reputation. Here are the best things to do in Salem with kids, plus where to eat and stay.

A town famous for hanging innocent people might not sound like an obvious choice for a family holiday. But scratch beneath Salem’s spooky surface and you’ll find one of the most kid-friendly towns in New England, packed with pirates, haunted houses, seaside parks and enough sugar to fuel a coven.

The beauty of Salem is that it works on two levels. Little ones can lose themselves in the costumes, broomsticks and black cats, while older kids and teens get a genuinely fascinating history lesson about what happens when fear and prejudice take over. The town is compact and walkable, most attractions are clustered within a few blocks of each other, and there’s a surprising amount of green space and waterfront for burning off energy between museums.

One word of warning before you book. The witch trials are a confronting story, and some attractions, particularly the Witch House and Proctor’s Ledge, can be heavy going for younger children. You know your kids best, so pick and choose accordingly. If you’re after a deeper dive into the city, start with our comprehensive guide to the best things to do in Salem on a two-day itinerary, then come back here for the family edit!

This post contains affiliate links

Best things to do in Salem with kids

Salem Trolley Tour

Little legs tire quickly, so start with the Salem Trolley. This one-hour narrated tour passes many of Salem’s main sights, from the historic waterfront to the grand mansions of Chestnut Street. The guides share stories about the city’s history and landmarks, making it a handy way to get your bearings before exploring on foot. The kids will love riding around town in an old-fashioned trolley.

The Good Witch of Salem

Salem’s witchy shops aren’t just for grown-ups. The Good Witch of Salem runs crafts and workshops designed especially for kids, so little ones can make their own magic to take home. Activities include themed crafts and potion-making experiences, although the program varies. Check the official experiences page before you visit, particularly during the busy Halloween season.

Salem Witch Museum

The Salem Witch Museum is the best place to introduce kids to the story of Salem and the witch trials of 1692. As the lights go down, life-sized dioramas light up one by one to tell the story of the trials, from the first accusations to the tragic fate of the accused. It’s educational and gripping, but the darkness, dramatic narration and subject matter may be a little much for very young children, so it’s best suited to primary school-aged kids and up.

→ Check Salem Witch Museum tours and ticket availability

Hocus Pocus filming locations

If your family has watched Hocus Pocus more times than you can count, a self-guided tour of the filming locations is a must. Most of the downtown spots are within an easy stroll of each other, which makes it perfect for little legs. Start at Salem Common and the old Phillips School on Washington Square, which played Max and Allison’s high school. Then wander down Essex Street to the Ropes Mansion, which doubled as Allison’s house, before finishing at Old Town Hall in Derby Square, where Winifred cast her spell over the grown-ups at the town Halloween party. Kids will love re-enacting their favourite scenes, so be prepared for plenty of photo stops and at least one rendition of the film’s most famous song. Take a guided tour so you won’t miss a thing!

→ Check current rates and availability for the Salem Hocus Pocus, Movies and More Tour

Salem Maritime National Historical Park

Salem’s historic waterfront is a brilliant place for curious kids to explore, with old wharves to wander, a lighthouse to spot and the grand Custom House to peek inside. Download a Junior Ranger booklet from the National Park Service website before you visit, then let the kids work through the activities as they explore. They can collect their badge at the Salem Armory Visitor Center. It’s one of the best free things to do in Salem with kids.

→ Check current rates and availability for the Salem, MA Tides, Tales & Treasures Waterfront Walking Tour

Winter Island

Winter Island Park is a laid-back waterfront escape a short drive from downtown, with a small beach, picnic spots and the remains of Fort Pickering for kids to explore. Keep an eye out for the white Fort Pickering Light, which has stood watch over the harbour since 1871. There’s also a seasonal campground with tent and RV sites, making it a handy base for families exploring New England by campervan. Check seasonal access and camping dates before you go.

The House of the Seven Gables

Built in 1668 by sea captain and merchant John Turner, The House of the Seven Gables is the mansion that inspired Nathaniel Hawthorne’s famous novel, and it’s surprisingly fun for kids. Tours bring life on Salem’s waterfront during the Great Age of Sail to life, from what families ate to where they slept, but the real highlight is the secret staircase hidden inside, which kids can climb to see where it leads. Out in the grounds, they can follow a history-themed scavenger hunt or navigate their way around with a compass on a nautical adventure, before getting hands-on with maritime activities in the Kids Cove. Check the events calendar before you visit, as the Gables also runs hands-on history sessions where kids can try old-fashioned games and crafts.

→ Check The House of the Seven Gables tours and ticket availability

Salem Willows

When the kids need a break from history, head to Salem Willows. This old-fashioned seaside park has shady lawns for running around, waterfront paths with harbour views and a strip of vintage arcades and snack stands. It’s also the place to try the local oddity that is the chop suey sandwich. Everyone will be curious, but not everyone will be brave enough to try it.

Halloween Museum of Salem

If your kids think Halloween should last all year, they’ll love this place. You’re handed a pair of 3D glasses at the door, then set loose among colourful displays filled with vintage Halloween decorations, nostalgic toys and spooky memorabilia. It’s a relatively quick walk-through, making it an easy addition to a day of sightseeing, with plenty of colourful curiosities for Halloween enthusiasts.

Photo by Szabó János on Unsplash

The Haunted Neighborhood

For kids who like a scare, the Haunted Neighborhood on Derby Street is home to Salem Wax, a Halloween-themed wax attraction, Frankenstein’s Castle and Witch Village, also known as Halloweentown. There are spellcasting experiences, too. The attractions vary in intensity, so check the descriptions before deciding which ones are suitable for your children. The Halloween Pass bundles several experiences together, including a candlelit ghost tour, and can be spread over more than one day.

Real Pirates Salem

Forget witches for a moment, because Salem also has pirates. Real Pirates Salem tells the true story of “Black Sam” Bellamy and his crew, whose ship, the Whydah Gally, sank off Cape Cod in 1717. Explorer Barry Clifford found the wreck, and the museum displays artefacts recovered from the ocean floor, including cannons, coins and weapons. The highlight for kids is the chance to touch real silver pieces of eight, alongside interactive stations and dress-up spots for budding buccaneers. Allow time to explore, as there’s more to see than you might expect.

→ Check Real Pirates prices and ticket availability

Salem Pioneer Village

Step back to 1630 at Salem Pioneer Village, a recreated colonial settlement of thatched cottages, wigwams and dugouts where visitors can explore early settler life. Hocus Pocus fans may recognise it from the film’s opening scenes. In 2026, the village is scheduled to open on weekends from June 6 to November 1, from noon to 4pm. Salem is planning to relocate the village to a new home at Salem Willows, so check the official website for the latest opening dates and relocation updates before visiting.

The Bewitched statue

No family trip to Salem is complete without a photo with Samantha Stephens. The statue of the Bewitched star riding her broomstick sits in the centre of town and makes a fun, free photo opportunity. Kids who’ve never seen the show might not understand the fuss, but they’ll still want a picture with a witch.

Salem Kids Tours

Most Salem walking tours fall into one of two camps: worthy history walks that lose kids by the second stop, or ghost tours that lean a little too hard into the gore for younger ones. Salem Kids Tours sits neatly in between. Led by local social studies teacher Alicia Diozzi, the one-hour classic tour winds through the historic downtown with stories of the witch trials alongside tales of the Golden Age of Sail, famous visitors and a cemetery that moved, before wrapping up at the Witchcraft Trials Memorial. Families with kids who like a little shiver can opt for the Slightly Spooky Tour instead, which adds ghost stories as it wanders past the grand old homes of the McIntire District to the atmospheric Broad Street Cemetery. Both are pitched squarely at children, which means plenty of questions, plenty of laughs and history that actually sticks. The classic route is the easier pick if you’re pushing a pram.

Where to eat in Salem with kids

Longboards

Down on Pickering Wharf, Longboards is a relaxed, family-friendly spot with burgers, quesadillas and pizzas, plus a deck right on the water. It’s the kind of place where nobody minds a bit of noise, and the sea breeze is a welcome reset after a busy morning of sightseeing.

Turner’s Seafood at Lyceum Hall

If your kids are up for a ghost story with their lunch, Turner’s is the place. It serves seafood favourites, including clam chowder, and stands on land that was once an apple orchard owned by Bridget Bishop, the first person executed during the witch trials. Staff and diners have reported a woman in a gown drifting through the building and the scent of apples when there are none to be found. Whether you believe in ghosts or not, it’s a memorable story to share over lunch.

Goodnight Fatty

This is the cookie shop of every kid’s dreams. The cookies are huge, warm and gooey, with flavours that change regularly, and they’re the perfect bribe for good behaviour on a long day of exploring.

Kakawa Chocolate House

Kakawa’s rich drinking chocolates are inspired by historic Mesoamerican recipes. While the chilli-spiked versions may be best left to the grown-ups, there are gentler options and handmade truffles for younger tastebuds.

Ye Olde Pepper Companie

Ye Olde Pepper Companie has been making sweets since 1806, making it one of America’s oldest candy companies. Kids can pick from old-fashioned treats made to historical recipes, including Gibralters and Black Jacks, and get a taste of what lollies were like long before supermarkets existed.

Curly Girl Candy Shop

For a full-blown sugar rush, Curly Girl Candy Shop on Washington Street stocks a huge variety of sweets, from sour treats to chocolate bars and nostalgic favourites. Set a budget before you walk in, or prepare to negotiate.

Where to stay in Salem with kids

The Hawthorne Hotel

If your kids love a ghost story, the grand old Hawthorne Hotel has been a Salem landmark since 1925 and is often described in local lore as one of America’s most haunted hotels. It overlooks Salem Common, so there’s room to run around right across the road, and the Salem Witch Museum is just a few steps away.

→ Check current rates and availability at The Hawthorne Hotel

Salem Waterfront Hotel & Suites

Right on Pickering Wharf, the Salem Waterfront Hotel & Suites is hard to beat for families. Rooms are spacious, there’s an indoor pool for rainy afternoons and an on-site restaurant for nights when nobody can face going out again. Best of all, many of Salem’s main sights are within walking distance, so you won’t need to worry about parking every time you head out.

→ Check current rates and availability at Salem Waterfront Hotel & Suites

The Cove at Salem

For a stay the kids will talk about for years, The Cove at Salem has 10 themed rooms inspired by the city’s history and lore, from the family-friendly Ice Castle to the Haunted Circus, Medieval Dungeon and Witches Cottage. There’s a two-storey clubroom with games, an outdoor patio with fire pits and free parking for one vehicle. It’s less than a mile from Salem Common, making it a convenient base for exploring the city.

→ Check current rates and availability at The Cove at Salem

Winter Island campground

Travelling by campervan or happy to pitch a tent? The seasonal campground at Winter Island Park puts you right on the water, with a beach and an old fort on your doorstep and sea views instead of street noise. Check the campground’s current operating dates before making plans, as it’s a seasonal option. Book through Hipcamp.

Halloween in Salem with kids

Halloween in Salem is a big deal, with a month of costumes, pumpkin displays, ghost tours and spooky events that turn the whole town into a real-life Halloween movie set. It’s brilliant fun for kids who love all things creepy, but the crowds can be a challenge for families. Salem’s population of around 44,480 swells with more than a million visitors during October, and on the weekends leading up to Halloween, the footpaths can feel more like a mosh pit than a historic town. Add tired little legs, prams and queues for the most popular attractions, and the magic can wear thin pretty quickly.

If you’re visiting with kids, aim for a weekday in early October, when the Halloween atmosphere is already in full swing but the crowds are generally more manageable. Book accommodation well ahead and reserve tickets for popular attractions and ghost tours early, as they regularly sell out. Traffic and parking can be a nightmare, so consider leaving the car in Boston and taking the commuter rail or seasonal ferry to Salem instead. Build in time for snack stops and breaks away from the busiest streets, too. Even the most enthusiastic little witches and wizards need a breather.

Tips for visiting Salem with kids

Timing is everything in Salem. October is magical, with costumes, pumpkins and Haunted Happenings in full swing, but more than a million people visit downtown Salem during the month. Queues, crowded footpaths and sold-out tours can test even the most patient kids. If you’re visiting in October, aim for a weekday early in the month, book tickets and accommodation well ahead and leave the pram at home in favour of a carrier if you can. Summer and early autumn are generally calmer, and they’re the best time to visit seasonal attractions like Pioneer Village and the Winter Island campground.

Getting to Salem is easy without a car, which is a blessing when parking is so tight. The MBTA commuter rail runs from Boston to Salem in around 30 minutes, while the seasonal ferry from Boston takes just under an hour and feels like an adventure in itself. Once you arrive, much of the town is walkable, and the Salem Trolley is a handy way to see more without exhausting little legs.

For more ideas on what to see, eat and do, take a look at our complete guide to things to do in Salem.

The post Things to Do in Salem with Kids: A Family Guide to Witch City appeared first on boyeatsworld.

Castle Stays in Ireland: Where to Sleep Like Royalty

Aleney de Winter — Sat, 10 Oct 2026 08:20:35 +0000

From royals to rock ’n’ roll legends, discover Ireland’s best castle stays, with tips on what to wear, what to spend and how to choose a castle that suits your regal style.

When I was little, my mother used to accuse me of behaving as if I thought I was the Queen of Sheba. And maybe, in my flouncy preschool imagination, I did. But the older I get, the more I wonder why this is a problem.

I may not have a crown, a country estate or a line of servants whose sole purpose is to anticipate my every whim, but I see no reason why that should prevent me from enjoying the royal treatment. In fact, actual royalty has had a pretty good run of it, so I reckon the rest of us deserve a turn.

Ireland is an excellent place to indulge in this particular fantasy, with castle hotels ranging from grand estates where you can dine like a duchess to atmospheric retreats surrounded by rivers, woodland and wild countryside. You can spend a small fortune being thoroughly spoiled, or find a historic hideaway that delivers plenty of atmosphere without requiring you to remortgage the family silver.

Ireland and I go back a long way, and I’ve been lucky enough to stay at both Ashford Castle and Ballynahinch Castle, although my Ashford visit was a good many years ago, back before children and the habit of photographing absolutely everything. Ballynahinch was a more recent stay, and one I’ve written about at length here.

As a frequent visitor to Ireland, I’ve visited the rest of these castles but haven’t rested my tiara-clad head in them, so I won’t pretend otherwise. Instead, this is a guide to the castle stays worth considering, depending on whether your idea of royalty involves a grand suite and a long dinner, a country estate to roam or simply someone else making the bed. Because if you’re going to be accused of having royal delusions, you may as well enjoy them with butler service.

If your royal ambitions stretch beyond the Emerald Isle, our guide to the best castle stays in Scotland has plenty more turrets to choose from, while those travelling with a small entourage of princes and princesses should check out my review of Edinburgh’s Dalhousie Catsle and my pick of the world’s best castle stays with kids.

Castle stays in Ireland at a glance

Not all castles are created equal, and nor are their guests. Some are about polished luxury and elaborate dinners. Others are better suited to exploring wild landscapes, touring Ireland’s famous sights or escaping into the countryside for a few days. The trick is finding the castle that suits your vision of living like royalty and, unfortunately, your budget.

The best castle stays in Ireland

1. Ashford Castle, County Mayo

Best for a special occasion, a romantic escape or anyone who wants to go all in on the castle fantasy.

Ashford Castle is the sort of place that makes you wonder why anyone bothers with an ordinary hotel. Set beside Lough Corrib near the village of Cong, this grand estate offers the full castle experience, with impressive interiors, extensive grounds, fine dining and activities designed to make your stay feel like an occasion.

As I mentioned, my own visit was a lifetime ago, so I’ll leave the fresh reviewing to others. What I can tell you is that I was in excellent company. When John Ford came to Cong in 1951 to film The Quiet Man, John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara stayed at the castle while parts of the estate appeared on screen, and Oscar Wilde spent much of his childhood on his father’s estate next door.

You can spend your days exploring the estate on foot or two wheels, taking to the water, trying falconry or horse riding, or simply settling into the business of being thoroughly spoiled. There’s a spa for those who consider relaxation a competitive sport, and dinner in the George V Dining Room, where the chandeliers are Waterford Crystal and the meal feels less like dinner and more like a coronation.

The setting is another part of the appeal. Lough Corrib and the surrounding countryside provide plenty of opportunities to explore, while the nearby village of Cong is worth factoring into your plans.

→ Check current rates and availability at Ashford Castle.

Worth knowing: This is a high-end stay, so check what’s included in your room rate and price any activities you want to book. There’s no point arriving with grand plans for a day of falconry only to discover your royal budget covers little more than the breakfast buffet.

Spook factor: 1/5. Ashford is occasionally credited with a resident ghost, but nobody seems able to put a name to it. The most unsettling encounter you’re likely to have is with a hawk at the falconry school.

Ashford Castle’s distinguished guests: King George V and Queen Mary, Prince Rainier and Grace Kelly, John Lennon, George Harrison, Ronald Reagan (who now has a suite named after him), Ted Kennedy, Pierce Brosnan (who celebrated his wedding here), Brad Pitt, John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara.

2. Ballynahinch Castle, County Galway

Best for a wild castle stay

Not every castle stay needs to involve behaving as though you’re about to host a royal banquet. Sometimes the appeal is being surrounded by an extraordinary landscape, with a historic building to return to after a day outside.

Ballynahinch Castle sits in Connemara, along the Wild Atlantic Way, surrounded by rivers, woodland and mountains, which makes it particularly appealing if you want the countryside to be as much a part of the experience as the hotel itself.

The estate is vast, and you can walk, fish or join in on some the estate’s guided activities. Afterwards, head inside where log fires crackle in the lounges, the Owenmore Restaurant serves dinner with river views, and the river outside is one of Ireland’s most famous salmon and sea trout fisheries, so dinner may well have had a shorter commute than you did. It’s the rare castle that takes its food as seriously as its scenery, and as someone who plans most holidays around the next meal, I consider that a very royal priority.

I recently swept into the castle hotel and have written about my royal residency in more detail, so you can read my full Ballynahinch Castle review before deciding whether it’s the right fit for your brand of regal retreat.

It’s a different proposition from a grand, formal castle hotel. Think luxury with the starch taken out, where the riverside rooms come with four-poster beds and the dress code leans more wellies than white tie. It also has one of the best backstories of any castle in Ireland. In the 1920s the estate was bought by Ranjitsinhji, the Maharaja Jam Sahib of Nawanagar, better known to cricket fans as Ranji, the first non-white man to play Test cricket for England (he made his debut against Australia, as it happens). He spent every fishing season here until his death in 1933, arriving by train to the bang of fog detonators set off on the line in his honour and throwing September birthday parties for staff and friends with enough drink to sink the Titanic. The hotel still raises a glass to him in the Ranji Room.

If your version of royal treatment involves a long walk, a beautiful setting, a salmon dinner and a comfy bed rather than someone announcing dinner with a trumpet, Ballynahinch deserves a look.

→ Check current rates and availability at Ballynahinch Castle.

Worth knowing: This is a destination in its own right, not simply somewhere to sleep between sightseeing stops. Allow time to enjoy the estate and the surrounding region.

A more thoughtful stay: Ballynahinch takes its role as custodian of its extraordinary landscape seriously. The hotel runs on 100% renewable electricity, with solar panels supplying around a quarter of its annual energy needs, while a biomass boiler provides heating and hot water. Its conservation work includes removing invasive rhododendron, planting native trees and protecting wild Atlantic salmon through catch-and-release fishing and habitat restoration. The estate also grows its own organic produce, harvesting more than 1,800kg of fruit, herbs and vegetables in 2024. In 2026, it won the overall Sustainability Award for 2025 from the Irish Accommodation Services Institute.

Ballynahinch Castle’s distinguished guests: Maharaja Ranjitsinhji (owner, cricket legend and host of legendary parties), US President Gerald Ford and Betty Ford, Irish presidents Éamon de Valera and Michael D. Higgins, Daniel O’Connell and Richard “Humanity Dick” Martin, founder of the RSPCA, who called it home. Pirate queen Grace O’Malley gets an honourable mention, as her husband built the original castle on the lake.

Spook factor: 2/5. Rumour has it Grace O’Malley’s murdered son Owen and a gardener called Morby still linger, but the only spirits you’re guaranteed to meet are on the shelf in Ranji’s bar, and they’re far more likely to give you a hangover than a fright.

3. Castle Leslie Estate, County Monaghan

Best for country-estate atmosphere and outdoor adventures

There are castle stays that make you feel as though you should be wearing a tiara to breakfast, and then there’s Castle Leslie Estate, where the grandest luxury might be riding through misty woodland, watching the morning light spill across a lake or coming back rosy-cheeked from a long walk to a roaring fire. Bedazzled headwear entirely optional!

Spread across 1,000 acres in County Monaghan, Castle Leslie is the sort of place where a quick stroll can turn into a half-day expedition, particularly if you keep spotting another woodland path, a stretch of lakeshore or somewhere that demands you stop for a photo. There are ancient trees, historic ruins, a working farm and a walled garden dating to 1850, with Glaslough Lake providing the sort of scenery that makes even a casual wander feel a little cinematic.

If you’re the sort who starts twitching after sitting still for too long, there’s plenty to keep you occupied. Saddle up for a horse ride through the estate, get up close with hawks and owls during a falconry experience, take a boat out on the lake or have a go at archery. You can even explore the grounds by horse-drawn carriage if your idea of exercise involves someone else doing most of the work. No judgement here.

After a day outdoors, the Victorian Treatment Rooms offer massages and skincare treatments, while the outdoor hot tubs are made for easing tired legs and contemplating whether you’ve done enough to justify a second helping at dinner. I’d argue that a few hours on horseback and a respectable amount of walking count as an excellent start.

Castle Leslie has its share of celebrity history, too. Paul McCartney married Heather Mills in the estate’s church in 2002, with a vegetarian Indian banquet for 300 guests in marquees beside the lake. It’s a pretty spectacular setting for a wedding, even without a Beatle on the guest list.

For me, the appeal is the combination of wild, beautiful countryside and somewhere wonderfully comfortable to return to at the end of the day. You can spend the morning exploring woodland, the afternoon getting acquainted with a bird of prey and the evening eating well beside a fire. The royal treatment, minus the exhausting business of waving at crowds from a balcony.

And if you do happen to pack a tiara, well, there’s no reason it can’t come to dinner.

→ Check current rates and availability at Castle Les lie Estate.

Worth knowing: Check which experiences are available during your visit and whether they need to be booked separately. Castle Leslie’s 1,000-acre estate is worth allowing time to explore. Check which activities are running during your visit and whether they need to be booked separately.

A more thoughtful stay: Castle Leslie became a certified B Corp in September 2025, recognising its independently assessed social and environmental performance. Its initiatives include using 100% renewable electricity since 2016, eliminating 99% of single-use plastics and sourcing more than half its produce from within 100km. The estate also holds Gold accreditation from Green Hospitality and is working towards carbon neutrality by 2030.

Castle Leslie Estate’s distinguished guests: The Leslie family’s history reaches back to medieval Scotland, with ancestral links to Margaret, Queen of Scotland. The estate’s more recent visitors have included the Duke of Wellington, Winston Churchill, Queen Margaret of Sweden, Prince Pierre of Monaco, Paul McCartney, Ringo Starr, Elton John, Twiggy, Chrissie Hynde, Dave Gilmour and Mick Jagger.

Spook factor: 4/5. Lady Constance Leslie, the late wife of Sir John Leslie, the first baronet of Glaslough, is said to have taken up residence in the Mauve Room, where she apparently enjoys levitating the bed while guests try to sleep. Not ideal if you’re a light sleeper.

4. Dromoland Castle, County Clare

Best for a lavish stay with plenty to do

Dromoland Castle is another name to investigate if your castle fantasy involves grand interiors, expansive grounds and enough activities to make doing absolutely nothing feel like a deliberate lifestyle choice.

If you judge a hotel by its guest book, Dromoland makes a strong case. When George W. Bush spent a night here for the 2004 EU-US summit, around 7,000 police, military and private security personnel turned out to guard him, which is the kind of entourage most of us can only dream of. Me, I’d be lucky to muster a retinue of two eye-rolling teens, and only then with the promise of room service.

The historic estate offers a range of experiences, so you can make your stay as active or as indulgent as you like. Explore the grounds, try an estate activity or settle into the slower rhythm of a hotel where you’re not expected to dash off somewhere else every morning.

Its location in County Clare also makes it worth considering if you want to combine a castle stay with exploring the west of Ireland. Just be realistic about distances when planning your itinerary. Ireland may look small on a map, but its roads have their own ideas about how quickly you should get anywhere.

Dromoland is the kind of place to consider for a special celebration or a holiday where the hotel itself is a major part of the experience. You could spend your days exploring the estate and your evenings dining in style, with no need to explain to anyone why you’ve ordered dessert.

→ Check current rates and availability at Dromoland Castle.

Worth knowing: Compare the room rate with the experiences you actually want to book. A grand property can be wonderful, but there’s little point paying for a full estate experience if you plan to spend most of your time out sightseeing.

Dromoland Castle’s distinguished guests: Bill Clinton, George W. Bush, Nelson Mandela, King Juan Carlos of Spain, Muhammad Ali, Johnny Cash, Bono, John Lennon, George Harrison, Jack Nicholson, John Travolta and Richard Branson.

Spook factor: 1/5. For all its centuries of O’Brien history, Dromoland doesn’t trade on a ghost story. The most intimidating presence on record is the small army that guarded George W. Bush.

5. Ballyseede Castle, County Kerry

Best for a castle stay while exploring the southwest

Kerry is one of Ireland’s most popular regions for good reason, with dramatic coastlines, green countryside and scenic drives that make you want to pull over every few minutes to take another photograph.

Ballyseede Castle gives you the chance to add a historic hotel stay to the mix. It’s worth considering if you want the atmosphere of an Irish castle without making the hotel the sole purpose of your trip.

The castle itself has the kind of pedigree that makes you sit up a little straighter at breakfast. The Fitzgerald family held the original fortress until the lands passed to the Blennerhassetts, who built the current house in the 1720s and enlarged it a century later. Today Ballyseede bills itself as Kerry’s only castle hotel, and it comes with a welcoming committee of castle dogs, including an Irish wolfhound named Higgins, who take their meet-and-greet duties very seriously.

Ballyseede is somewhere to settle in for a few nights, not just somewhere to drop your bags between sightseeing stops. You can use it as a base for exploring Kerry, but leave yourself time to enjoy the castle, its grounds and the four-legged welcome committee. After all, what’s the point of staying in a castle if you’re never there long enough to enjoy it?

→ Check current rates and availability at Ballyseede Castle.

Worth knowing: Check the location against your planned route rather than assuming every Kerry attraction is just around the corner.

Ballyseede Castle’s distinguished guests: Generations of landed gentry, from the Fitzgeralds to the Blennerhassetts, who married into the Knights of Glin. And Hilda Blennerhassett, the last of the family to live here, who liked it so much she never left (more on her below).

Spook factor: 4/5. Hilda Blennerhassett, a decorated war nurse and the last of her family to live here, is alleged to still drift about the upper floors and main staircase. If you catch a sudden whiff of roses, particularly around 24 March, the anniversary of her death, that’s apparently your cue.

6. Waterford Castle, County Waterford

Best for the novelty of staying on your own little island

There’s something appealing about the idea of checking into a castle on an island. It sounds like the beginning of a mystery novel, although ideally one in which the staff are lovely, dinner is excellent and nobody has been murdered in the library.

Waterford Castle occupies an island in the River Suir, giving it a rather different setting from a castle in the middle of a town or beside a main road. Access is by ferry, which adds to the sense that you’re leaving the everyday world behind for a while.

The island has the history to match the drama. Monks settled here in the sixth century and Vikings followed, and after the Norman invasion, Strongbow’s cousin Maurice FitzGerald was held prisoner on the island before being rescued. The FitzGeralds went on to hold it for close to 800 years, and family legend credits a monkey with saving an infant heir from a fire, which beats most family trees. A former manager has also admitted guests have reported sensing a presence, so while nobody has been murdered in the library as far as I know, the mystery novel fantasy isn’t entirely off the table.

The island setting is part of the attraction, particularly if you’re looking for somewhere that feels like a destination rather than simply a place to spend the night. You can settle in, explore the grounds and enjoy the novelty of being on an island without having to organise a complicated expedition to get there.

For a special occasion, that little extra sense of separation from the outside world can be part of the fun. There’s something satisfying about crossing the water to check into a castle, even if you still have to remember where you left your phone charger.

→ Check current rates and availability at Waterford Castle.

Worth knowing: Factor in the ferry crossing when planning arrival and departure, and check the practical details before booking.

Waterford Castle’s distinguished guests: The FitzGeralds, descendants of the Earls of Kildare, who held the island for close to 800 years. Their first family member here, Strongbow’s cousin Maurice FitzGerald, was a less than willing guest, having been held prisoner on the island.

Spook factor: 3/5. Eight centuries of Normans, FitzGeralds and island isolation, plus staff who admit guests have sensed a presence. You can’t exactly nip out to the mainland if things get weird, so choose your room wisely.

7. Cabra Castle, County Cavan

Best for historic interiors and a classic castle setting

Cabra Castle is another option for travellers who want the old-world atmosphere of a castle hotel, with historic interiors and grounds that give you a change of scene from the usual city break.

Gorgeous though it is, Cabra’s history is less glamorous and a good deal more turbulent. The land belonged to the O’Reilly clan until Cromwell’s forces seized it in the 1600s, and the ruins of the original castle still stand near Cromwell’s Bridge in what is now Dún a’ Rí Forest Park. The current castle was rebuilt by the Foster family, who reportedly bankrupted themselves doing it, before the Pratts bought it in 1813 and gave it the Cabra name.

It’s worth considering if you’re planning to explore Ireland beyond the most familiar tourist routes and want your accommodation to be part of the experience. A castle stay can be a highlight in its own right, particularly when you allow enough time to enjoy the building and its setting rather than arriving late and leaving immediately after breakfast.

The attraction is the chance to settle into a historic property and enjoy a change of pace. You can wander the grounds, soak up the atmosphere and enjoy the novelty of staying somewhere with considerably more history than your average chain hotel.

It’s also a reminder that not every memorable castle stay needs to be an extravagant splurge. The best choice depends on your budget, the room you book and the experience you’re after.

→ Check current rates and availability at Cabra Castle

Worth knowing: Check the location against the rest of your trip and look carefully at the room options. A historic building can offer a variety of room styles, and not every room will deliver the same experience.

Cabra Castle’s distinguished guests: The aristocratic Pratt family, who owned the estate for centuries, plus one Oliver Cromwell, whose forces dropped in uninvited. These days the real stars are the brides and grooms: Cabra has hosted more than 6,000 weddings.

Spook factor: 4/5. With a history like this, naturally there are ghost stories. There’s said to be a uniformed soldier who appears in the corridors, a phantom horse and carriage at night and the tragic tale of a servant girl named Sarah who was hanged on a bridge in the forest in the 1780s. Enjoy your nightcap.

8. Ballygally Castle, County Antrim, Northern Ireland

Best for a coastal castle stay

For a different sort of castle stay, head to the coast of Northern Ireland. Ballygally Castle sits beside the sea, making it an appealing choice for travellers who like their history with a side of coastal scenery.

The hotel is also known for its ghost, and it’s a sad tale. Lady Isabella Shaw was the wife of James Shaw, who built the castle in 1625. Legend has it that after she gave birth to a daughter rather than the hoped-for son, he took the baby and locked her in the turret, and she fell to her death trying to escape through the window. She’s said to knock on doors along the corridors in search of her child, and you can climb the winding stairs to visit the Ghost Room, although it’s no longer offered for overnight stays. Personally, I’m happy to hear the story over dinner. I draw the line at discovering a mysterious figure at the end of the bed.

Game of Thrones fans should look for the carved door at the restaurant entrance, made from fallen trees at the Dark Hedges, and anyone who appreciates a historical twist will enjoy knowing the old dungeon is now the ladies’ toilets.

Its coastal location makes it worth considering if you’re exploring the Causeway Coast and Northern Ireland’s other attractions. Just remember that Northern Ireland is part of the United Kingdom, so factor that into your itinerary if you’re combining it with the Republic of Ireland.

→ Check current rates and availability at Ballygally Castle.

Worth knowing: Check the location against your planned route along the coast, and confirm which facilities and experiences are available during your stay.

Ballygally Castle’s distinguished guests: Game of Thrones cast and crew, who often stayed between filming on the nearby coast. Plus carpet tycoon Cyril Lord, who turned the castle into a hotel in the 1950s, making him the only Lord I can confirm checked in.

Spook factor: 5/5. Widely billed as one of the most haunted places in Ulster, Ballygally claims not one but three ghosts, led by Lady Isabella. You can climb up to the Ghost Room, but these days it’s strictly a visit, not a sleepover.

9. Slane Castle, County Meath

Best for rock ‘n’ roll royalty and a very good whiskey

Most of the castles on this list are about old-world elegance. Slane is old-world elegance with the volume turned up to eleven. Perched above the River Boyne, about an hour north of Dublin, Slane has been home to the Conyngham family since the 1700s, and they still live here today.

For anyone who would rather channel Mick Jagger than Mary Queen of Scots, this castle’s real claim to fame lies in the natural amphitheatre below it, where the Slane concerts have drawn enormous crowds since 1981, when Thin Lizzy headlined with a young U2 on the bill. Since then David Bowie, Queen, the Rolling Stones, Bruce Springsteen, Bob Dylan, Madonna, Oasis and Harry Styles have all played here. U2 even moved in for a while in 1984, turning the Drawing Room into a recording studio for The Unforgettable Fire and filming a video for Pride in the Gothic ballroom.

That ballroom has royal credentials too. It was created for George IV’s state visit in 1821, and the king had more than one reason to drop by. Elizabeth Conyngham was the great love of his life, and legend has it he had the road from Dublin straightened so he could reach her faster. Now that’s a man who knew how to plan a road trip.

Slane isn’t a hotel. It’s the Conyngham family home, and the way in is the Slane Castle Suite, a private apartment taking up the castle’s first floor. You can book it with three bedrooms for a smaller group or five for up to 12, and the rooms are every bit as grand as you’d hope, with four-poster beds, damask walls and views over the parkland to the River Boyne. Snag the King’s Room and you’ll be sleeping where George IV himself stayed, while the five-bedroom version adds the Hunting Room and the vast Anglesey Room. Your group gets its own lounge in what was once the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland’s quarters, plus a fully equipped kitchen for anyone who fancies cooking in a castle, and yes, the dog can come too. And if sharing a castle with its owners feels a little too cosy, the Slane Castle Retreat lets you book the whole thing, sleeping up to 15 across six bedrooms with the run of the grand reception rooms. Add the Slane Whiskey Distillery on the estate, private dining in the Gandon Room and the ancient wonders of the Boyne Valley, including Newgrange, practically on your doorstep, and you may struggle to leave.

→ Check current rates and availability at the Slane Castle Suite

Worth knowing: Minimum stays may apply, so check the booking options carefully. There’s no restaurant, bar or room service on site, though private dining can be arranged, and full payment is required at booking and is non-refundable. Check the concert calendar too, unless your idea of a quiet weekend involves 80,000 new friends. With Oasis and Fontaines D.C. both announced for 2027, some weekends will be anything but.

Slane Castle’s distinguished guests: King George IV, U2, the Rolling Stones, David Bowie, Queen, Bruce Springsteen, Bob Dylan, Madonna, Oasis, Guns N’ Roses, the Red Hot Chili Peppers, R.E.M. and Harry Styles.

Spook factor: 1/5. Slane doesn’t trade on a famous ghost, despite surviving a fire in 1991 that destroyed a third of the building. The only things likely to keep you up at night are the echoes of four decades of screaming fans, or one Slane whiskey too many.

What to wear to an Irish castle (or, how to dress like royalty without looking like a wally)

My alleged royal alter ego, the Queen of Sheba, is frequently depicted in ye olde artwork with her boobs out. Whether this reflected how she actually dressed is anyone’s guess. European painters had a habit of exercising a little artistic licence when depicting exotic queens, and perhaps the occasional bare breast helped convey power, beauty and general royal fabulousness. Or maybe they just like tits. Whatever the reasoning, it’s probably not the look to aim for at check-in in 2026. Hotel staff have seen a great deal, but there’s no need to add to their trauma.

And while Ballgowns may once have been the sort of thing you might reasonably expect to spy in such a setting, these days, unless you’re attending a black-tie event, a state banquet or have somehow secured an invitation to an actual royal wedding, they’re probably unnecessary. Besides, a floor-length gown is not ideal for clambering over ancient stone steps, wandering through damp gardens or trying to cycle around the estate without getting your skirt tangled in the spokes.

The trick is to dress for the fantasy without becoming a hostage to it. For dinner in a grand castle hotel, smart casual is generally a sensible starting point, although check the dress code at your chosen property. A nice dress, tailored trousers or a jacket will usually serve you better than a tiara and a theatrical cape (though you do you, boo!). If the restaurant does have a formal dress code, by all means embrace it. This is your moment to swan into dinner as though you’ve just returned from somewhere fabulous, looking regal and ready to entertain a few foreign dignitaries.

During the day, however, practicality should win. Ireland’s weather has never been especially interested in your outfit, and castle grounds can involve gravel, grass, woodland paths and enough mud to make you question your footwear choices. Bring layers, a waterproof jacket and comfortable shoes that can cope with the terrain. If you’re planning walks or outdoor activities, dress accordingly.

A pair of sensible boots may not scream royalty, but they’ll come into their own when you’re striding across the estate with the confidence of someone who owns the place. Which, for the purposes of the weekend, you do. Add a coat with a bit of drama, preferably something that billows in the wind for that all-important castle entrance photograph.

Above all, remember that the point is to enjoy yourself. You don’t need to dress as if you’re attending a coronation, and you certainly don’t need to buy an entirely new wardrobe for two nights in a castle. Just dress for the weather, the activities and the dinner reservation. Add a little theatrical flair if the mood takes you … just keep your top on!

How to choose the right castle stay in Ireland for you

Before you get carried away imagining yourself as the long-lost heir to an Irish estate, think about what you actually want from the experience. If it’s grand luxury and a guest book full of presidents, start with Ashford or Dromoland. If you’d rather a countryside escape, Ballynahinch and Castle Leslie Estate both give you room to roam, while Ballyseede makes sense if you’re road-tripping through Kerry and Cabra suits an itinerary that strays from the usual tourist trail. And if you want something a little different, there’s Waterford Castle’s private island, Ballygally’s haunted perch on the Antrim coast or Slane, which comes with a rock ‘n’ roll soundtrack.

It’s also worth thinking about the kind of stay you enjoy. Some travellers want a grand suite and a long dinner, while others would rather a comfortable room, a good breakfast and somewhere beautiful to walk, and there’s no point paying for a level of formality you don’t enjoy. Check what sort of building you’re booking, too. Some properties are genuine historic castles, while others are grand country houses or later buildings in castle style. Both can make for a lovely stay, but if your heart is set on ancient towers, it pays to know what you’re getting.

Timing, budgets and other unroyal concerns

Ireland’s weather is famously unpredictable, so there’s no magic month when the rain politely agrees to stay away. Spring and summer bring long days for exploring the grounds, autumn is lovely for a quieter, more atmospheric escape, and winter has its own appeal if you’re picturing roaring fires and long evenings indoors. If there’s a particular room, experience or date you’ve set your heart on, book well ahead, as the most sought-after properties have limited availability.

As for cost, castle hotels range from serious splurge to surprisingly accessible, depending on the property, the season and the room. Look beyond the headline rate, because breakfast may or may not be included and falconry, spa treatments, drinks and long dinners add up quickly. Rooms in historic buildings can vary enormously, so check exactly what you’re booking, along with cancellation terms and any seasonal closures. Weekdays and quieter periods can offer better value, but compare actual rates for your dates rather than assuming. And if the budget is tight, one memorable night as part of a longer trip delivers all the fantasy without requiring you to sell a kidney.

Long live the queen

I think the appeal of a castle stay is less about sleeping behind ancient walls and more about everything around it: wandering an estate, eating a very good dinner somewhere steeped in history or simply waking up somewhere that feels a world away from everyday life. You don’t need a title, a tiara or an understanding of which fork to use. You just need a castle that suits your budget and your idea of a good time.

There’s also something deeply satisfying about following in the footsteps of kings, presidents, rock stars and at least one cricketing maharaja, not to mention the odd ghost who never got around to checking out. Compare current rates for the castles above, pick the one that best fits your itinerary and your preferred level of royal treatment, and for a night or two, you get to be part of the story.

As for my mother’s accusation, I’d like to formally concede that she was right. I do have right royal aspirations, and while I may not actually be the Queen of freaking Sheba, all these years later I have finally found the kind of places I can flounce down a sweeping staircase, demand a second pot of tea in a four-poster bed and refuse to carry my own luggage without a single person rolling their eyes. Well, except the teenagers. The teenagers will always roll their eyes.

The post Castle Stays in Ireland: Where to Sleep Like Royalty appeared first on boyeatsworld.

Things to Do in Kep, Cambodia,from crab feasts to jungle trails

Aleney de Winter — Tue, 06 Oct 2026 11:47:20 +0000

Photo by Tobias Tullius on Unsplash

From feasting on crab and exploring jungle trails to abandoned French villas and beaches, Kep is Cambodia’s laid-back seaside escape.

For someone who calls Cambodia her favourite place in the world, I’m a little embarrassed to admit I’ve never made it to Kep. Neither has Raff, so we roll into this little seaside town with zero expectations… and roll out a few days later with pepper under our fingernails and a real soft spot for this lazy but lovely destination.

Kep Crab Market

One of Cambodia’s must-visit culinary destinations, Kep’s Crab Market is a riot of fresh seafood, with crustaceans, squid, fish and all manner of things freshly pulled from the water. Down at the shoreline the day starts early, when the crab ladies wade out to bamboo traps sunk just off the beach and haul up baskets of blue swimmer crabs still snapping their claws. The catch is weighed and sold within metres of where it was caught, then whisked up into the warren of stalls behind, where plastic tubs of prawns, cockles and glistening fish sit beside towers of fat green Kampot peppercorns still on the vine.

Further in, the market turns into one big outdoor kitchen, and everything seems to be smoking, steaming or sautéing over a burner. Whole fish are clamped between split bamboo and grilled over coals, and trays of soft, crunchy fried crab are piled high for anyone who wants to eat with their fingers. The air is thick with charcoal smoke, spice and the salty tang of the Gulf of Thailand.

The squid stalls are the ones that stop us in our tracks. Rows of plump little squid, skewered on bamboo sticks and lined up over glowing charcoal, are turned and basted until they’re lightly charred and tender. They’re handed over with a tiny bag of the local dipping sauce, a sharp, punchy mix of lime juice, salt and Kampot pepper that makes every bite sing.

But for us, it’s the siren call of the little crab shacks on Kep’s Crab Shack Row that wins out.

We start at the very end of Crab Shack Row at Arts Cafe. The rustic timber room is a little different from its seafood-focused neighbours. Filled with arts and handmade crafts, all for sale, its open deck looks out over the water, which is churning on the night we visit.

The cafe is run by Khmer Hands, a local vocational school that trains young Cambodians in hospitality and design, so whatever you order, from coffee to a plate of Kep seafood, helps someone build a career. It’s also the kind of place where one drink easily turns into a long, lazy afternoon watching the sea.

We down a couple of rather excellent pina coladas before wandering out to a neighbouring crab shack, where Kep’s famous blue crab is about to become dinner.

We decide on a table by the water at Holy Crab and settle in for what turns into a fairly heroic quantity of crab. Kilos of fresh blue crab arrive smothered in Kampot peppercorns, and we attack them with gusto. Then order seconds!

There is, I must point out, absolutely no elegant way to eat this. We do not care. Pepper gets under our fingernails. Crab juice runs down our wrists. Shells pile up on the table.

Within minutes we’ve abandoned any pretence of table manners and are in with both hands, cracking claws and sucking every last morsel from the shells. Pepper gets under our fingernails, crab juice runs down our chins and shells pile up on the table.

We hit repeat the next night at Srey Ka Restaurant next door, telling ourselves it’s purely for research (it’s not; it’s pure gluttony). It’s every bit as delectable and every bit as messy, and we leave with the same sticky fingers and peppery lips.

Crab could keep us happily occupied for much of the day, but there is more to Kep than devouring crustaceans. No, really!

More to explore in Kep

Rising up behind town, Kep National Park is a jungle-clad hill laced with walking and cycling trails, the main one looping around the mountain for roughly 8 kilometres. It’s shady and dotted with lookouts where the trees part to reveal glimpses of the coast, the salt fields, and, on a clear day, the hazy outline of Vietnam’s Phu Quoc island.

While you’re trekking, keep an eye out for monkeys and butterflies (they’re everywhere), and try to time it to catch sunset from one of the viewpoints before heading back down for… yes, more crab. Sue us!

Kep’s faded villas are another one of the town’s highlights and an intriguing reminder of its glamorous past. In its heyday, Kep was where wealthy Cambodians and French residents came to swan about in sleek modernist holiday homes, many built in the 1960s when Kep was the place to be seen.

During the Khmer Rouge years and the turmoil that followed, most were abandoned and left to the elements, and today their concrete shells sit half-hidden among the palms like a ghostly real estate brochure.

We DIY’d it, but if you’re short on time, a guided Kep discovery tour is a good way to see the best of them without the guesswork.

→ Check rates and availability for the guided Kep Discovery tour

Many of those villas now sit crumbling and reclaimed by the jungle, but Kep hasn’t lost its holiday spirit.

These days it’s Cambodian families, many making the drive down from Phnom Penh, who flock here on weekends and public holidays to picnic by the sea and feast on crab.

Day Trips from Kep

Kep is small enough that you can see its main sights without rushing, which leaves plenty of time to venture further afield. Bokor National Park and Kampot are the obvious additions if you have another day up your sleeve.

Bokor National Park

Bokor National Park is an easy day trip from Kep, and it quickly became one of our favourite corners of Cambodia. The mountain views are spectacular, but it’s the eerie leftovers of its past that really get under your skin. Bokor deserved more than a quick mention, so we gave it a story of its own. Read our wild Bokor tale here.

Kampot

Kampot is just down the road from Kep, close enough for a day trip, though honestly, one day won’t feel like enough. Between the famous pepper farms, the salt fields and the old riverside town, there’s plenty to keep you busy and even more reasons to linger. We couldn’t do it justice in a few paragraphs, so we gave Kampot its own story too.

Take a boat to Rabbit Island

For a taste of castaway life without the hassle of actually being shipwrecked, take the short boat ride out to Rabbit Island or Koh Tonsay. Life here runs on hammock time. Wooden shacks line a curve of golden sand, coconut palms lean lazily over the water, and your biggest decision will be whether to swim before or after lunch.

The seafood is as fresh as it gets, grilled over coals and served barefoot at a plastic table, and if you can’t bear to leave, a handful of basic beach bungalows let you stay the night and fall asleep to the sound of the waves. As for the rabbits, don’t hold your breath. The island is named for its shape, not its residents.

Where to Stay in Kep

We were so lucky to stay for a few nights at Samanea Beach Resort & Spa, set right on the seaside surrounded by tropical gardens and mangroves on the edge of Kep.

Our room was huge, with glam (and practical) canopied four-poster beds, a huge private terrace and an outdoor bathroom with a giant soaking tub and shower where lizards perved at us as we bathed surrounded by greenery.

The resort’s sprawling gardens also boast a saltwater infinity pool, a gorgeous spa surrounded by it sown mangrove, a private beach and a standalone library lounge where you can relax with a book, a cocktail… or both. It must be noted that the cocktails are cheap, tasty and suitably effective. Ahem… so I heard.

The restaurant is another reason not to venture too far. It serves a mix of Khme and international dishes, with local seafood the star, naturally.

Breakfast was particularly memorable, especially the seafood noodle soup, which is still inexplicably haunting me. I would happily go back to Kep just for another bowl.

Mostly, though, it’s just a beautiful place to swim, eat, flop and watch the sea. Exactly what we came for.

→ Check current rates and availability at Samanea Beach Resort & Spa

Time with My Teen in Kep

We swim, wander, eat and watch the boats come and go. There is no big adventure, no cultural revelation. We’re just content to do very little… together.

He’s old enough now to head off on his own, share a piña colada with me by the pool, convince his mother to get her first tattoo (that’s a whole other story), and be increasingly convinced he knows everything (he doesn’t) and is still happy to sit beside me by the sea and just be.

Cambodia has been my favourite place in the world since long before Raff was born. Nine years ago, I brought him here for the first time and watched a little boy eat a spider. He fell for the place then, as I knew he would.

This time, sitting beside the sea in Kep with an almost grown-up, sharing headphones, listening to Cambodian surf rock and trying to talk him out of buying a Vespa, I realise he hasn’t simply come back because I brought him. He already knew he loved it.

This was my special place before he was born. Then it became his. And somewhere along the way, without either of us really noticing, it became ours.

Getting to Kep

Kep sits around 165 kilometres south of Phnom Penh, a journey of roughly three to four hours by road. Buses and minivans run there daily, or you can hire a private car and driver if you’d rather travel at your own pace. If you’re already in Kampot, Kep is only about 25 kilometres away, around 30 to 45 minutes by car or tuk-tuk, so it’s easy to visit both or do Kep as a day trip.

We, however, left all of that to someone else. Our Kep adventure was part of a greater Cambodia trip with InsideAsia Tours, who organised the itinerary and took care of all the logistics between destinations. Having someone else deal with the getting-from-A-to-B business meant we could concentrate on the important stuff, like finding the next plate of crab.

Getting Around Kep

Kep is fairly spread out, with the Crab Market and beach along the coast and the national park rising behind town. You can walk around some areas, but getting between the main attractions on foot can take longer than you might expect, particularly in the heat.

Tuk-tuks and local motorbike taxis are useful for short journeys, whether you’re heading from your hotel to the Crab Market, making your way to the national park entrance or returning after dinner. Your accommodation should be able to help arrange a driver. If you’d like to explore several places in one outing, agree on the route and fare before setting off.

You can also hire a bicycle or motorbike, although I’d think twice about cycling in the midday heat. If you’re staying at a resort outside the main town, check how easy it is to arrange transport before booking, especially if you plan to head out for dinner rather than eat at the hotel.

How Long Should You Spend in Kep?

You can squeeze Kep into a day trip from nearby Kampot, but I’d recommend staying at least a night or two if you can. That gives you time to feast on pepper crab, explore the national park, poke around the old villas and watch the sun go down without constantly checking the time.

Two nights is even better if you want to take a boat to Rabbit Island or spend a little longer doing absolutely nothing beside the sea. Kep is all about slowing down, after all, and there’s something rather lovely about not having to rush off just when you’ve settled in.

Kampot is only about 25 kilometres away, making it easy to combine the two on a southern Cambodia itinerary. Kampot has more restaurants and evening activity, while Kep is the place to come when your idea of a perfect afternoon involves seafood, a swim and nowhere in particular to be.

When Is the Best Time to Visit Kep?

Kep is a year-round destination, although the weather can make a difference to your plans. The dry season generally runs from November to April, with December to February bringing some of the more comfortable conditions for exploring on foot, lounging on the beach and taking boat trips.

March and April can get seriously hot, so you’ll probably appreciate a pool and a leisurely lunch in the shade. The wet season, roughly May to October, brings heavier showers and higher humidity, but the surrounding countryside turns gloriously green and there are often fewer visitors around.

Rain doesn’t necessarily mean a washout. Showers can be brief, although wet trails can become slippery and rough seas may disrupt boat trips to Rabbit Island. If the island is high on your wish list, keep your plans flexible and check conditions locally before setting off.

Weekends and Cambodian public holidays can also bring a lively influx of local families to the beach and Crab Market. Come during the week if you’d prefer a quieter visit, or join the crowds and enjoy the atmosphere.

Looking for more Cambodian info and inspo?

Phnom Penh: What to Eat, See and Do in Cambodia’s Capital
Silk Island by Vespa: Exploring Koh Dach from Phnom Penh
Things to do in Kampot, Cambodia
Mount Bokor: Finding gods and ghosts on Cambodia’s strangest mountain
Things to do in Siem Reap with teens
Phnom Kulen, Cambodia: From Sacred Temples to Secret Ruins
What to Expect from Cambodian Cuisine
Phnom Kulen, Cambodia: From Sacred Temples to Secret Ruins
Lum Orng: Siem Reap’s Unmissable Farm-to-Table Feast
Wellness Experiences in Cambodia
The best Siem Reap temples with kids
Cambodia with Kids – 19 Smart Tips for your Family Trip
The best things to do in Siem Reap with Kids

The post Things to Do in Kep, Cambodia,from crab feasts to jungle trails appeared first on boyeatsworld.

Things to do in Kampot, Cambodia

Aleney de Winter — Tue, 06 Oct 2026 09:15:27 +0000

Photo by Niels Baars on Unsplash

From pepper farms and salt fields to its sleepy riverside old town, here’s what to do in Kampot, Cambodia, and why we think this little town is worth slowing down for.

We arrive in Kampot after a three-hour drive from Phnom Penh and absolutely no idea what we’re doing, which turns out to be entirely appropriate.

Kampot feels wonderfully sleepy. The river slides past old French shophouses painted in faded mustard and mint and fishing boats putter along the water. It is the sort of town where you can head out for a coffee and accidentally spend half the afternoon doing absolutely nothing.

The reason we’re here, though, is pepper.

Things to do in Kampot

Kampot is small enough to explore at a leisurely pace, with plenty to see in town and more to discover in the surrounding countryside, though it does have a sneaky habit of stretching itineraries. Two nights is enough to tick off the highlights, especially if you’re using it as a base for Bokor and Kep, both close enough that you can explore without living out of a suitcase.

Kampot pepper farms

Kampot pepper has been grown in the region for generations and became particularly prized during the French colonial period, when it was exported to France. The industry was devastated by decades of war, then slowly rebuilt from the early 2000s. In 2010, Kampot pepper became Cambodia’s first agricultural product to receive protected geographical indication status.

At La Plantation, a family-run organic farm in the countryside, we get to see what all the fuss is about. We wander between the pepper vines while our guide explains that green, black, red and white pepper all come from the same plant. The difference is when the berries are picked and what happens to them afterwards.

Then, after an alarming run-in with a rather large scorpion, comes the tasting.

Raff takes it extremely seriously, sniffing and nibbling his way through each one like he’s about to pronounce judgement on a very expensive wine.

I am considerably less sophisticated and mostly thinking about how much I can fit in my suitcase. I leave with enough to season a small nation.

Kampot Salt Fields

If Cambodia had a salt and pepper set, Kampot would be holding both shakers. Its pepper might hog the limelight, but the town is just as handy with the salt. Stretching across the coastal plain between Kampot and Kep, the salt fields cover more than 4,000 hectares, a vast mirror-like grid of shallow ponds where seawater is channelled in and left to evaporate beneath the blazing Cambodian sun. The salt is so prized it now carries its own geographical indication as Kampot-Kep Salt, putting it in the same protected club as its peppery partner.

Production follows the rhythm of the seasons, with harvesting generally running from around December or January through April or May, depending on the weather. Workers rake the crystallised salt into neat white mounds, with much of the work still done by hand. The real treasure is fleur de sel, delicate flower-like crystals skimmed from the surface of the ponds in small quantities during the hottest, stillest months.

Our visit fell outside the harvest season, so the fields weren’t looking particularly salty when we rolled up, and was more soggy paddock than glittering salt pan. Come at the right time, though, and it’s a dazzling sight, especially early in the morning when the light bounces off the water and the white mounds stretch towards the horizon. If seeing the salt workers in action is high on your list, plan your trip for the dry season.

Kampot Old Town

Kampot’s old centre is a lovely tangle of French colonial shophouses, their pastel facades peeling just enough to be photogenic, interspersed with colourful shopfronts and cafes spilling out onto the pavements along the Praek Tuek Chhu River.

There isn’t a long list of monuments to tick off here, and that’s half the appeal. The pleasure is in ambling the grid of streets, ducking into galleries and boutiques, and stopping for an iced coffee whenever the heat demands it. Start at the Old Market, a restored colonial-era building that now houses a string of restaurants and bars, then wander out to the Durian Roundabout, where a giant concrete durian pays tribute to the region’s most pungent export.

Down by the water, the Old Bridge is a reminder of Kampot’s chequered past. Built by the French and damaged during the war years, it was patched back together with mismatched sections and today carries only pedestrians and motorbikes. Stroll across for views up and down the river.

The riverfront is where Kampot really comes alive, especially late in the afternoon. Fishing boats putt past, locals gather to exercise and chat as the heat eases off with Bokor Mountain glowing across the water as the sun sets. Then there is the giant spewing seahorse, which rises 8 metres above the garden in front of the old Provincial Hall. Unveiled in 2024, it sends a steady arc of water into the river and has been nicknamed “Singapot” for reasons that become immediately obvious. After dark, it lights up in a rotating rainbow of colours. Subtle it isn’t, but I rather like it.

Stroll about 500 metres south and you’ll spot another new landmark across the water, a 35-metre clock tower built in traditional Khmer style with Khmer numerals on its face. Because apparently Kampot wasn’t quite finished collecting giant things to look at. Grab a seat at one of the riverside bars, order a cold Angkor beer and settle in for the show.

Explore the Kampot countryside

Photo by Boudewijn Huysmans on Unsplash

Venture beyond Kampot’s riverfront, and the landscape opens up into a patchwork of rice paddies and limestone karsts riddled with caves, all within easy reach by tuk-tuk, scooter or bicycle.

The standout is Phnom Chhnork, around 10 kilometres from town, where a short walk through rice fields brings you to a cave hiding a 7th-century brick temple built in the pre-Angkorian era. Local kids often tag along as guides, torches in hand, leading the way through the cool, cathedral-like chamber and pointing out stalactites shaped like elephants. Further along the road towards Kep, Phnom Sorsia offers more caves and temples to clamber through, with sweeping views across the plains from the top.

For something more sobering, the so-called Secret Lake is a vast reservoir dug by forced labour under the Khmer Rouge. Today it’s a peaceful spot surrounded by farmland, but its history adds a poignant layer to any countryside loop.

Guided cycling and tuk tuk tours bundle many of these sights into a half or full day, and they’re a great way to meet locals and see village life up close. If you’d rather have someone else worry about the route, there are also guided bike tours that combine cycling with other local experiences.

→ You can take a guided Kampot bike tour combining countryside cycling and kayaking. Check current rates and availability

Get out on the Kampot River

Photo by Aritra Roy on Unsplash

In Kampot, the river is part main street, part social club and part natural air conditioner, so it would be rude not to get out on it. Whether you prefer to paddle, float or simply be ferried about with a drink in hand, there’s an option to suit every energy level.

The classic choice is a sunset cruise, chugging upriver with a cold Angkor in hand as the sky turns pink behind Bokor. The real magic comes after dark, when the boats pull in beside the mangroves and thousands of fireflies flicker to life in the trees. Just check your boat actually leaves the dock, as a few in the harbour are floating restaurants that never go anywhere.

If you’d rather do the work yourself, hire a kayak or paddleboard and head for the Green Cathedral, a leafy offshoot about 5 kilometres upstream where the trees knit together overhead. Go early for the coolest temperatures and best birdwatching. Further upriver, the Teuk Chhou rapids are a favourite local swimming and picnic spot, though in the dry season they’re about as wild as a bubble bath. And for the nervous, the rumours of crocodiles in the river are just that.

Where to Stay in Kampot

Kampot has everything from quirky riverside bungalows to seriously fancy private-pool villas, but the big decision is whether you want to be in the old town or out by the river, where things get considerably more peaceful.

Amber Kampot

If you’re going all in, Amber Kampot is the one to beat. Its light-filled villas sit on the riverbank on Fish Island, with private pools, Khmer mid-century modernist furniture and floor-to-ceiling windows looking out over tropical gardens. There’s also an infinity pool overlooking the river and a private beach just upstream, should you somehow tire of your own pool.

→ Check current rates and availability

Sabay Beach Kampot

For a laid-back riverside stay, Sabay Beach Kampot has quirky bungalows set around a sandy little beach, with glowing bamboo lights after dark and the sort of chilled, secluded vibe that makes it hard to leave. Even if you don’t stay, it’s a lovely spot for a lazy lunch or sunset drink.

→ Check current rates and availability

Hotel Old Cinema

For something with a bit more character, Hotel Old Cinema occupies a restored former cinema in the heart of Kampot’s old town. This small hotel is a lovely, and affordable, option if you’d rather stay amongst the old colonial streets and have restaurants, cafes and the riverfront within easy walking distance.

→ Check current rates and availability

Spend a day in Bokor National Park

Looming over Kampot like a moody older sibling, Bokor Mountain is close enough for a day trip but far too strange to squeeze into a single paragraph. Up top, the air turns cool and misty, and the jungle gives way to the eerie remains of a French colonial hill station, including an old Catholic church and the hulking Bokor Palace hotel, alongside giant statues, clifftop pagodas and a slightly surreal modern casino.

Throw in sweeping views over the Gulf of Thailand and a history that swings from glamorous getaway to Khmer Rouge stronghold, and it made for one of the wildest days of our trip. We gave it the full story it deserves. Read more about our crazy Bokor adventures here.

Take a side trip to Kep

Photo by Tobias Tullius on Unsplash

If Kampot is the laid-back river town, Kep is an entirely different beast, and this one comes with claws. Just a short drive away on the coast, this former French seaside playground is now a sleepy mix of jungle-clad hills, crumbling modernist villas and a seafront watched over by a giant crab.

The star attraction is the crab market, where the day’s catch is hauled from bamboo traps in the shallows and tossed in a wok with fresh green Kampot pepper, bringing the region’s two most famous flavours together on the same plate.

From the coast, hop on a boat to Rabbit Island, or Koh Tonsay, a small, mostly undeveloped island just offshore. Despite the name, there’s a distinct lack of rabbits, which feels like a bit of a branding oversight. Don’t bother scanning the bushes for twitching ears before learning the name comes from the island’s vaguely rabbit-like shape, best appreciated from the boat on the way over. But what it lacks in bunnies, it makes up for with beaches, warm, clear water for swimming and ramshackle shacks serving up lovely fresh seafood.

Add jungle walks in Kep National Park and there’s far more to this little town than a long, messy lunch, which is exactly why we gave Kep a story of its own.

Getting to Kampot

Kampot is around 150 kilometres south of Phnom Penh, and most travellers make the trip by road. We travelled with our InsideAsia Tour guide, which took about three hours with a stop or two along the way, but there are plenty of buses and minivans making the run from the capital each day, usually taking somewhere between two and a half and three hours.

A private taxi is quick and comfy, if you’re travelling as a family or would rather stop when you feel like it, and there’s also a train, although services are limited, so book ahead if you fancy arriving at a gentler pace. If you’re starting in the capital, it’s well worth spending a few days there first, and we’ve rounded up our favourite things to do in Phnom Penh to help you make the most of it.

Kep is only around 25 kilometres away, about 30 to 45 minutes by tuk-tuk or taxi, so it’s easy to combine the two or base yourself in one and day-trip to the other. amazing Bokor is right on the doorstep too, with the national park entrance just a few kilometres out of town.

Once you’re in Kampot, getting around is easy. The old town is small enough to explore on foot, and tuk-tuks are everywhere for trips out to the pepper farms, salt fields and countryside. Plenty of travellers hire scooters or bicycles too, although the midday heat has a way of making that seem like a much better idea in the morning than it does after lunch.

Looking for more Cambodian info and inspo? Try these…

Phnom Penh: What to Eat, See and Do in Cambodia’s Capital
Silk Island by Vespa: Exploring Koh Dach from Phnom Penh
Mount Bokor: Finding gods and ghosts on Cambodia’s strangest mountain
Kep, Cambodia’s sleepy seaside escape
What to Expect from Cambodian Cuisine
Lum Orng: Siem Reap’s Unmissable Farm-to-Table Feast
Wellness Experiences in Cambodia
Things to do in Siem Reap with teens
Phnom Kulen, Cambodia: From Sacred Temples to Secret Ruins
The best Siem Reap temples with kids
Cambodia with Kids – 19 Smart Tips for your Family Trip
The best things to do in Siem Reap with Kids

The post Things to do in Kampot, Cambodia appeared first on boyeatsworld.