The Annapurna Circuit was once one of the most celebrated and revered treks in the world – perhaps even the most celebrated. An epic circular route around the Annapurna massif, the journey led long-distance hikers through a serious of roadless valleys filled with atmospheric villages, monasteries, and fascinating Himalayan culture.

When we visited in 2007, construction of a road to Jomsom had just begun, something that would bring great change to the region. The following post, which includes a day-by-day itinerary at the end, was our experience walking the Annapurna Circuit before the roads came…

November 6, 2007 – Trek Begins

Upon arrival in Nepal, the first item on our what-to-do list was hiking the Annapurna Circuit, one of the most popular trekking routes in the world. The epic trail runs for over 200 km (125 miles) around the Annapurna Massif, one of the most stunning regions in the Himalayas.

At the center of the range lies the Annapurna Sanctuary, a natural Himalayan amphitheater which allows visitors to get much closer to the massif’s famous snowy peaks and glaciers. Descriptions of the sanctuary sounded too good to pass up, so we decided to combine the Annapurna Circuit with the Annapurna Sanctuary, adding an extra week to the traditional three-week circuit trek.

The Annapurna region offers an amazing diversity of terrain and culture: lush tropical forests, green terraced foothills, pine-forested gorges, eroded desert scenery, and the high-altitude Thorong La pass – all punctuated by a variety of traditional villages and monasteries along the way.

The lodge-based trek passes three of the ten highest mountains on earth: Dhaulagiri I, Manaslu and Annapurna I, all over 8000 m (26,240 feet) tall as well as a host of other spectacular mountains.

Since we were doing a longer trek and we wanted to maintain a bit of flexibility along the way, we decided to forego the guide and porter and carry our own packs ourselves. Although that decision made the trip a little less comfortable, it gave us the flexibility we wanted to take our time and maintain the spontaneity we love so much.

One negative of not having a guide was that we would not have anybody to hike ahead and book a room for us. Luckily, since we were starting our trek in November – which is late in the season – we were hoping that wouldn’t be such a problem.

Ascending through Jungles and Canyons

Day one of the Annapurna Circuit trek was really about just getting to the starting point from Pokhara. We grabbed a tourist bus which took us back along the road to Kathmandu and then up a side-road to the small town of Besisahar. Stupidly, we suddenly realized we really needed a second adapter to recharge our camera batteries during the trek. Hilariously, we actually managed to find one in the small town’s markets. Apparently, miracles do happen!

From Besisahar, we hired a jeep to carry us up a narrow, bumpy dirt road to Bhulebule. This is where the walking actually began. The narrow foot-path took us through Gurung farmland and strands of tropical jungle. Interestingly, because we had spent time looking for the adapter, we were running a bit late, so we made the decision to overnight in Ngadi rather than hiking on. This lucky decision meant that we would be hiking out of sync with most of the commercial tours doing the circuit. Yay!

From Ngadi, we followed the Marsyangdi River for four days to Chame. During this first stretch, the narrow path gradually climbed through a series of steep river gorges, first through tropical jungles, and later through deciduous and pine forests. The highlights of this stretch included an intimate view of traditional Gurung village life, a beautiful landscape of terraced farms, bird life, and rhesus macaques swinging through the trees.

Perhaps, the most interesting aspect of the first few days was the epicness of trail itself. We found ourselves winding up precipitous cliffs over raging boulder-strewn rivers. We passed through the mists of towering waterfalls and inched across narrow bridges spanning plummeting gorges. The sheer scale of the landscape made us feel tiny, insignificant.

In all honesty, the tropical humidity at the beginning of the trek was NOT fun. At times, sweating our way through patches of Himalayan jungle and slogging up the steep terraced slopes felt more like punishment than an enjoyable experience. Although we occasionally spotted the mountains in the distance, cloud cover from that humidity meant views of the snowy peaks were limited until day 4.

But when the clouds finally cleared, it was quite a blow to the mind! Still at a relatively low elevation, the Himalayas appeared far more massive than they did from the Tibetan side of the mountain chain. Suddenly, it became very clear that sweating our way through the lower elevations was a small price to pay for the grand adventure ahead.

The Annapurna Circuit is not an isolated hiking trail, though. It’s actually a main foot-path into the roadless Nepali interior. Although the trail is narrow and often quite rough, Thomas and I (and other trekkers) were sharing it with large mule caravans carrying supplies to and from remote mountain villages.

In addition to the long-distance caravans, the trail was home to hulking (sometimes intimidating) water buffalo and large herds of goats. (So, what do you do when a 900-pound water buffalo is standing right in the middle of the trail and refuses to budge? In our case, we waited patiently until an 8-year-old Gurung child came by and moved it for us. Ha, ha!) Obviously, the animals made hiking the trail a challenge at moments. But most of the time, walking the path through the outrageously beautiful scenery was pure joy.

In addition to the landscape, the culture offered up surprises at every turn. One of the more bizarre moments came on day five when we rounded a corner to discover a Gurung family strangling a yak to death.

We watched in a mixture of curiosity and dread as they struggled to cut off its air supply with a rope, the whole family joining in to bring it down. Next they slit its throat; blood gushed out onto the ground. Slowly, stunned trekkers started to pile up as they happened upon the slaughter. Gaping at the gruesome scene, we all learned exactly where those yak steaks in the teahouses were coming from.

As for carrying our own packs, which weighed in at about 12 kilos (26 lbs) each, day three was the roughest for both of us. We were seriously questioning whether we could manage the tougher, higher altitudes while carrying our own gear. But something happened on day four, and we were both recharged and ready to go again. Maybe we just felt ridiculous after seeing the locals hauling massive loads of firewood and supplies along the trails.

The trek was also a social experience. We began to encounter the same trekkers over and over during lunch stops, or at night around the communal dinner tables at our guest houses. We started to really look forward to weeks on the trail with our new friends. We were also enjoying life without the cars, mopeds and honking that normally fill the cities of South Asia. It was fantastic to leave the vehicles behind and just walk for hours in the most spectacular landscapes on Earth. However, not everything was positive…

The post The Annapurna Circuit Before the Roads appeared first on ContemporaryNomad.com.

As I said in our Srinagar post, it seems that every city with canals is inevitably compared to Venice. Perhaps, they should be compared to Bruges instead. Simply put, beautiful Bruges is northern Europe’s most enchanting, atmospheric town. A stunning medieval canvas embroidered with lovely canals and cobblestone streets, Bruges is one of those rare, perfectly preserved fairy-tale destinations – which I personally love, love, love! Some, however, will disagree.

Filled with chocolatiers, cafes, horse-drawn carriages, candy shops, pubs and cute little boutique hotels, some will dismiss Bruges as one of those tourist traps artificially maintained to keep visitors happy. Lonely Planet Online goes out of its way to suggest Bruges is part fabrication, reminding us that much of its architecture was redone in the 19th and 20th centuries.

I, on the other hand, want to reach out and pat the Flemish on the back for resisting the all-too-common European tendency to construct a blocky cement and glass-walled monstrosity at the heart of the old town to prove that they are modern. To me, modern means you have the foresight and the restraint to celebrate and preserve your historic treasures. In this way, the Flemish are remarkably modern.

Apparently, UNESCO agrees as they have declared Bruges’ entire historic center a World Heritage Site stating, “Bruges is an outstanding example of a medieval historic settlement, which has maintained its historic fabric as this has evolved over the centuries.”

Historic fabric is an understatement. Bruges is a virtual labyrinth of historical greatness. Cobbled lanes wind through a forest of towering cathedrals, belfries, and turrets over ancient stone bridges to secluded courts and gardens. Every tiny gap between buildings reveals a buttressed passage leading to some hidden treasure. Canals flow past monumental squares backed with gingerbread houses to intimate nooks filled with people toasting Bruges’ beauty.

To truly appreciate the city, one of the 30-minute boat tours is essential. Although the tours begin at different points scattered throughout Bruges, all tours are essentially the same and prices are set at an affordable 10.00 Euros. While some may criticize the Disney-esque organization of these boat tours, I WILL NOT. All cities which are as perfect as Bruges must figure out how to deal with the large number of tourists who inevitably visit. Bruges has chosen to respond to these challenges with simple, clear organization and an ethic of affordable accessibility that should be applauded. Venice could learn A LOT from Bruges.

If I sound like a fan, that’s because I am. To be fair, I’m a real sucker for chocolatiers and candy shops. The more the better. (Don’t ask how much chocolate I ate.) And decadent waffles topped with ice cream and mountains of whipped cream are never far. Beyond sweets, Bruges offers an outrageous selection of restaurants, many of which are quite affordable by Belgian standards. Overall, I felt Bruges was marked by an ideal of accessibility which distinguishes it greatly from other tourist-oriented cities. In fact, many of the attractions, including most of the cathedrals as well as the stunning Basilica of the Holy Blood, were free of charge. I LOVE THAT!!!

As if that’s not enough, locals are also extraordinarily welcoming. I was greeted with gentle smiles and helpful advice everywhere. (Seriously, the Flemish could teach “how to” classes on tourism, which many other European destinations desperately need.) As with every town I’ve visited in Flanders, the quirky Flemish humor is quite obvious; notice the large selection of chocolate penises on Katelijnestraat. (Don’t ask what they do with white chocolate!) Humor is clearly something very Flemish. Even Brugse Zot, the only beer still brewed in Bruges, reflects that humor in its name, which means Bruges Fool, and its logo, a dancing court jester.

The city is a blast. And actually, despite the fact that Bruges is Belgium’s most tourist-oriented town and that I was visiting in high season, I never found the number of visitors overwhelming. If you do, simply pick a canal-side lane and walk away from the Grote Markt. There are plenty of empty backstreets to explore. Better yet, wander down to the serene begijnhof (béguinage). All of these communities of béguines, women who dedicated their lives to God without retiring from society, have been cumulatively declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Bruges’ active begijnhof is particularly tranquil.

One Last Tip…

And one final hint for those looking to see Bruges without the crowds: make sure you stay overnight. Most visitors to Bruges are day-trippers, and when the sun sets, the crowds clear. That’s a shame for them and great for you because the city is even more beautiful after dark. As if that weren’t motivation enough, those who stay overnight get a card from their hotel which grants them discounts on certain attractions such as boat trips.

The post Beautiful Bruges appeared first on ContemporaryNomad.com.

During our 16 months in India, I dragged Thomas from one temple to another. Yes, I have a bit of an obsession, a rather insatiable appetite for architecture… temples, mosques, churches, fortresses, walled cities… I can’t get enough. (Stop laughing! If I have to spend hours watching him photograph every bug between Hong Kong and Rajasthan, he can visit a few temples.)

Well, my somewhat obsessive quest took us to one of the Grand Daddies of Indian architecture, the Jain Temple of Ranakpur, a VERY small, one-kiosk town northwest of Udaipur. Considered one of the masterpieces of Jain architecture, the huge fortified temple opens up into a surprisingly large multi-storied structure containing a series of vaulted chambers supported by 1,444 pillars. Each pillar is carved with unique designs ranging from sensuous dancers to geometric patterns to fine floral motifs. If you have never seen Jain carving, you are in for a treat.

And it’s not just the pillars. The entire temple, also known as Chaturmukha Dharana Vihara, is truly a singular work of art. Built in the 15th century, every inch of the interior is covered in highly ornate carving. We found ourselves staring at panels on walls or the ceiling uttering over and over, “How on earth did they carve that? Did they have ten-inch fingers?”

Surprised that we hadn’t come on a daytrip and that we intended to stay overnight in the tiny town, the local Jains invited us back to the temple to participate in the evening prayers. At first we felt a little awkward intruding on their services, but curiosity and a desire to see the temple at night convinced us to take them up on their offer.

When we returned later that evening, the dark, candle-lit temple was echoing with drums, giant ringing bells, and Jain chanting. At first we hung back not wanting to disturb them, but we were quickly ushered up onto the altar platform in front of the large statue of Adinath and included in the service. We had no idea of what was going on, but smiling faces kept welcoming us and everyone seemed absolutely thrilled to have us there.

On a personal note, I just have to point out that we visited many Jain sites in India. In every location, we were welcomed with tremendous openness and kindness and were granted a great deal of access to see their beautiful art and architecture. (This was not always the case in other houses of worship.) But even compared to other Jain sites, the Jain Temple of Ranakpur went above and beyond to make us feel welcome. This is truly one of the most hospitable places we visited in India.

What’s more, when we visited, this phenomenal Jain temple allowed photography, so I can share it with you in the form of a 360 view!!!

The post The Jain Temple of Ranakpur appeared first on ContemporaryNomad.com.

The Padaung, sometimes annoyingly referred to as the “long-neck” tribe, are one of the most recognizable ethnic groups in the world. More properly called the Kayah Lahwi (their name for themselves), the Padaung embrace one of the most extreme beautification practices out there. As Padaung women grow, heavy brass coils are added to their necks pushing down their shoulders to create the illusion of a long neck. From Discovery Channel specials on “body modification” to literature on “body mutilation” the Padaung story has been told and sold and used and abused for a variety of purposes.

This tribe attracts a lot of attention, but due to decades of rebel activity in their home state of Kayah, very few outsiders have been able to visit Padaung villages in Myanmar. This might have been a sort of blessing in disguise.

In the early 90s, Padaung refugees fleeing conflict began crossing into neighboring Thailand. I remember hearing stories of travelers encountering the legendary “giraffe woman” when I first visited Thailand in 1990 and 91. At the time, the drug-laden Golden Triangle was still relatively volatile. (I remember floating through a shootout between Karen rebels and the Thai military on a bamboo raft – yikes!) Moreover, those visitors who did travel to the border with Myanmar did not usually visit refugee camps, so exchanges between Padaung and outsiders were relatively uncommon.

Many reports of exploitation

But conflict in the Thai portion of the Golden Triangle was coming to an end, and with a calming of the region, these initial encounters with the Padaung quickly evolved into a circus-like tourist show. Early experiments with “freakonomics” steadily evolved into a full-blown Padaung industry. Reports began to circulate that Padaung women were being held as virtual slaves so that tourists visiting the human zoo could photograph them for a fee. As they were often illegal immigrants in Thailand, the Padaung were easily exploited.

Wanting to get in on the Padaung show, business people in the Inle Lake region of Myanmar, an open region without travel restrictions, began to bring in Padaung women to draw tourists into their shops. The Padaung, desperate to survive, were easily lured into such schemes.

This disgusting behavior in Thailand and to a lesser extent in Myanmar drew widespread criticism from human rights organizations as well as tribal advocacy groups. Still today, Lonely Planet guidebooks for both Thailand and Myanmar implore visitors not to partake in the Padaung show, and if they visit, not to pay for photos.

Exploitation, a story of survival, or both

Bypassing this exploitative experience sounds like a pretty obvious choice. This is why I have not seen the Padaung before. But very recently, I saw an interesting documentary discussing the further evolution of the Padaung story. The documentary described how human rights organizations and NGOs had been able to shape and form the freak show into something a little more palatable. It described how the Padaung were directly benefiting from tourist visits and associated handicraft sales.

The documentary argued that the neck rings were a form of body art no worse that extreme tattooing or breast implants. Moreover, the documentary showed a professional male photo model in America who had enhanced his career opportunities by getting pec implants. The documentary posed an interesting question: when professional photo models are turning to body modification to enhance their career opportunities, how can we condemn the Padaung, a displaced tribal group, for charging tourists for photos?

The more I thought about the documentary, the more I wanted to meet a Padaung woman.

Fast forward to Inle Lake, Myanmar. When our long-tail boat driver asked our motley crew if we wanted to see a Padaung woman, everyone in the boat answered with a resounding no – except me. “I want to meet a Padaung woman,” I announced, “so I can ask her directly how she is being treated.”

Somewhat perplexed by my response and unsure of whether to challenge Lonely Planet’s recommendations, the others reluctantly agreed to the visit. I’m glad we did, it was not at all what I expected.

Meeting the Padaung for the first time

We stepped out of the long-tail into a stilt-hut tourist shop, which was actually quite nice. The owners greeted us with cups of tea and showed us their extensive collection of carved statues, puppets, antiques, jewelry, and woven scarves. Off to the side, I noticed a young Padaung woman walking by with a basket of yarn. I somewhat awkwardly followed her into a separate hut where she and several other Padaung women were weaving scarves. Busily working the looms, they were joking and laughing with each other, at times screaming and belly laughing in delight. They didn’t look like slaves.

The young Padaung woman I had followed in smiled and welcomed me, another giggled and ran off into another room. The owners of the shop entered and asked me if I was interested in Padaung woven scarves, the emphasis was not at all on the women’s necks. An older Padaung women eyed my camera bag and said something biting that sent the other women into hysterics. Rather than rushing to take a photo, I sat and watched the older woman weaving. I have to admit, their necks were incredibly impressive.

Noticing my curiosity, one of the women asked if I wanted to take a picture. Unsure, I hesitated. “Free,” she smiled. I was confused. Weren’t they selling pictures of themselves? I snapped a couple of portraits and some shots of the women weaving and then showed them the pictures on my camera’s digital display.

“Thank you,” said the younger Padaung woman before returning to work. No requests for money, no demand to purchase anything. I sat for some time watching them weave.

Some argue that the Padaung’s long necks give them an economic advantage over other Burmese tribal people. Most of Myanmar’s tribes lack education and training and have little prospect for work other than traditional agriculture. For many tribes who have been displaced by conflict and have lost their land, daily survival is a constant struggle. The Padaung’s unique tradition has given an impoverished people a means of bringing in income. Clearly, the women working in the tourist shop had been hired to lure in curious travelers. Many tribal women can weave, but the Padaung women got the jobs, and they got the jobs because of their neck rings.

Others argue that tourists are actively encouraging the Padaung to continue a horrible form of “body mutilation” which needs to be stopped. It is often rumored that if Padaung women remove their rings, their atrophied necks flop over causing them to suffocate. This rumor appears to be false; however, I was unable to find any online pictures of older Padaung women without their rings. Regardless, weighting the shoulders and severely altering a girl’s bone development is unquestionably an extreme beauty ideal which does affect how a woman is able to move her entire upper body.

What do the Padaung think?

I have no idea. Although they clearly interact with tourists on a daily basis, the four women we met only spoke enough English to greet us and introduce themselves. Over the years, Thomas and I have encountered numerous tribal groups in various stages of development. Looks and behavior tell us a lot. The women were clean and seemed healthy. They were laughing and joking with us and with each other. They seemed happy. The way the women interacted with us expressed amusement and equality rather than fear or submissiveness. I saw no obvious signs that the store owners were using or abusing these women. Both the woman and the store owners were proud of their products and not at all desperate to sell them. Here in Inle Lake, the women appeared to be living better than most tribal people trapped in a 21st century world.

So, what’s the answer?

The answer is that the world is complex. Padaung necks are fascinating and, in an anthropological sense, beautiful – but they also represent a terrifying form of abuse. This abuse is, however, allowing Padaung to survive in less than ideal circumstances. There are advocates who insist that the practice of placing neck rings on young girls must stop immediately. This makes sense for Padaung who have access to education and career training. But for the Padaung living in remote regions, removing the rings may be throwing away their best source of income. There are few easy answers. The Padaung conundrum is just one more example of the complex realities facing tribal people as they transition into a very foreign modern world.

NOTE: Second-hand reports and online sources indicate that the situation was worse in Thailand where Padaung tourism had gotten out of hand. We have not been to these villages, so we did not comment on them. If you have recently visited the Padaung in either Thailand or Myanmar, we would love to hear about your experience in the comment section.

The post The Padaung Conundrum appeared first on ContemporaryNomad.com.

Potato Chip Rock is crazy, a little dangerous, and – much to the chagrin of locals – a darling of the Instagram crowd. Perched high above the arid valleys of Poway in Southern California, the very photogenic site repeatedly pops up in newspapers, blogs and social media streams around the world.

Hilariously, despite the fact that Potato Chip Rock is located 30 minutes from where I grew up, I had never visited. Considering the fact that Thomas and I have scoured the world for similarly unique locations, we thought it was about time we paid a visit.

Given its location just outside the relatively urban center of Poway in San Diego County, it’s easy to dismiss the Potato Chip Rock hike as Internet hype. (That might have been why it took us so long to do the hike.) But even experienced hikers will find this trail and the surrounding landscapes quite enjoyable.

Where to Start

The hike, known as the Mt. Woodson Trail, starts in the parking lot at Poway Lake and leads around the southern shores of the lake up into the beautiful boulder-strewn mountains. There is a small junction at the southeast edge of the lake where hikers must follow the clearly marked trail up towards Mt. Woodson (the sign DOES NOT say Potato Chip Rock.)

We started the hike around 7 AM. The hills were shrouded in a mysterious fog that made the trail feel more remote and pristine than it actually is. Lucky us! We had specifically chosen to do the hike on a Tuesday in January for the dual benefits of cooler temperatures and FAR fewer hikers.

I would NOT recommend this hike in soaring summer temperatures… not if you want to live. The trail basically goes four miles straight up and there is very little shade.

The route slowly winds its way up the slopes of Mt. Woodson through a surreal landscape of massive boulders and towering slabs of stone. Early in the morning, there is great birdlife such as quail, roadrunners and raptors.

Hikers should be aware that they are hiking through mountain lion habitat. Also, rattlesnakes are always a possibility, so keep an eye on your kids! (I didn’t let Thomas out of my sight.)

Many hikers shoot up and down the trail with singular focus on Potato Chip Rock itself. That’s a pity because there are dozens of places to sit and take in the views over Poway and the mountains beyond.

Having said that, if you have gone to the trouble of starting your hike early, head straight to the rock and then take your time as you descend. Potato Chip Rock can get notoriously crowded. We have heard stories of people lining up for 45 minutes to snap the requisite shot. Yikes!

Unbelievably, we had Potato Chip Rock all to ourselves for quite a while. (It’s a miracle!!!) We had plenty of time to do all the most famous poses and take shots from every angle. We sat and took in the views, watched the birds, and celebrated our luck at being the only two there.

Getting your Pictures

And then we started to wonder if anyone would come by to take a shot of us sitting together. Using a tripod and self timer is not a viable option because accessing the rock is somewhat challenging. You have to jump off a boulder down about four feet onto the Potato Chip slab. It’s not that hard, but it is a bit intimidating because you don’t want to miss and fall off the rock. Clearly, doing that with your ten-second camera timer running is not a great idea.

Luckily, at the last second a group of hikers showed up to save the day and capture some great images of us sitting and standing on the rock. Even better, these people actually knew how to compose a photo. Yay!

There is some online debate as to whether or not Potato Chip Rock is actually dangerous. Some people have even suggested that you wouldn’t die if you fell. They are wrong. You could easily kill yourself here, so be careful while you are posing. No Instagram shot is worth it.

Tip for Visiting Potato Chip Rock

• The main Potato Chip Rock trailhead starts in the southeastern corner of the parking lot at Poway Lake. The trail is called the Mount Woodson Trail.
• The main trail from Poway Lake is 8 miles (13 km) round-trip with a 2,100-foot (640 meter) elevation gain.
• There is a $10 parking fee on weekends for people who are not Poway residents. Parking is free on weekdays.
• To avoid crowds and heat, start before 7 AM.
• The biggest danger associated with this trail is people not taking enough water for the hike. Heat stroke is a serious issue here as there is very little shade.
• There is a second less scenic trail up to Potato Chip Rock from the CAL FIRE Ramona Fire Station off Highway 67. This route follows a paved access road.
• Rattlesnakes are a real issue on warm days. This is mountain lion territory, but sightings are rare.

The post Hiking to Potato Chip Rock in San Diego appeared first on ContemporaryNomad.com.

The Rockabillies of Yoyogi Park are, perhaps, the best example of what makes Tokyo so Tokyo. This city is all about awesome subcultures, retro tongue-in-cheek chic, music, and serious love for everything fun.

For more than 30 years, these Tokyo icons have been gathering on Sundays at the southeastern corner of Yoyogi Park to dazzle visitors with their dance moves, humor and extreme vertical hair. They don’t do it for money; they don’t ask for a thing. They just dance to dance and entertain the crowds.

Best of all, photographers are welcome to shoot away to their heart’s content. But don’t even think about invading their space to compose that perfect shot. I watched as one overzealous photographer (no, not me) stepped over the imaginary boundary that encircles the dancers. Faster than you can say, Rock-this-town-rock-it-inside-out one of the dancers who doubles as a bouncer had removed said photographer. This is Japan, people, respect is not just a song by Aretha Franklin here.

And if you stay respectful, the Rockabillies are a ton of fun and SUPER friendly. We loved them so much that we have gone back multiple times to see them. Seriously, what is better than vertical hair gyrating to Love is a Battlefield in Japanese. Who sings that? She sounds exactly like Pat Benatar. Did Pat do a Japanese version?

Interestingly, several of our Japanese friends seemed to think that the Rockabillies had stopped performing and they were quite surprised that we had seen them not once, but multiple times. That suggests that the Rockabillies may not always be there. However, it didn’t seem to me that the tradition was dying out. There were several younger dancers learning the moves.

Tips on Seeing the Rockabillies

The Rockabillies gather at the southeastern corner of Yoyogi Park not far from the JR Harajuku Station or the Meiji-jingumae Metro Station. Here is the location on Google Maps. Apparently, they don’t dance at a fixed time, so there is luck involved. But both times we encountered them, it was about 3 PM.

The post The Rockabillies of Yoyogi Park appeared first on ContemporaryNomad.com.

What is adventure? Is it the thrill of exploring some remote corner of the globe, the rush of adrenaline as you come face to face with a wild animal, or the sense of personal growth that comes from breaking out of your comfort zone?

It’s not an easy question. For some people, it’s diving into the natural world to test their physical and mental limits. For others, it’s cultural discovery, meeting exotic people, or wandering through lost jungle-covered ruins.

For Thomas and me, it is all of the above. We’ve spent years exploring the far reaches of this incredible planet, seeking out the most exhilarating, breathtaking, and awe-inspiring experiences the world has to offer. And now, after countless miles, endless discoveries, and several decades of travel, we’re excited to share with you our list of the world’s greatest adventures.

Climbing a Peak in Antarctica

Our Take: Setting foot on the 7th continent is an epic adventure no matter what. But climbing a peak, even a tiny peak in Orne Harbor, takes it to another level (pun intended). Gaze out over the jagged, stony towers around you. Take in the gorgeous ice dome sloping up thousands of feet towards the South Pole. And – hey – how did those penguins get up here?

Biking Bagan – Myanmar

Our Take: No biking in Petra or Machu Picchu. In Angkor Watt, the temples are too far apart, and there are too many vehicles on the road. But wait, biking in Myanmar’s surreal temple city of Bagan is JUST RIGHT. With thousands of soaring stone spires punctuated by the occasional golden dome, it just doesn’t get more beautiful.

Diving a Cenote – Mexico

Our Take: For us Jules Verne fans, any caving experience is awesome. But how about giving your caving adventure an aquatic twist by diving the famous cenotes of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula. From the stunning stalactites of Dos Ojos to the Stygian fog of Angelita, every cenote dive is a uniquely thrilling experience. You can play out your Journey to the Center of the Earth and your Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea fantasies at the same time!

Walking with Tigers – Nepal

Our Take: We’ve tracked tigers in multiple locations across Asia and the experience is always AWESOME. But one location stands head and shoulders above the rest, Chitwan National Park in Nepal. Our Chitwan tiger trek was on foot with our guides protecting us with nothing but bamboo sticks. Yikes!!! To make it even better, this park boasts sun bears, rhinos, gharials and wild elephants.

Trekking to Remote Villages in the Atlas Mountains – Morocco

Our Take: We’ve trekked some of the best destinations on earth including the Himalayas, the Andes, the Rockies, the Alps, the Rwenzoris, and more. (All awesome!) But we are singling out the Atlas Mountains because this off-the-track destination offers great potential for discovery. Imagine adobe villages in valleys filled with cherries and apricots backed with jagged desert mountains. Beautiful and delicious!

Discovering the Tribal Villages of Sumba – Indonesia

Our Take: We grabbed a couple of motorbikes and hit the backroads of of the Indonesian island of Sumba completing a big loop around the the western side of the island. The isolated region’s unique tribal culture and soaring hut architecture are pure adventure gold. But you need to take a moment to learn about the culture before you do this on your own.

Sailing down the Nile in a Felucca – Egypt

Our Take: This was my Agatha Christie dream fulfilled: floating down the Nile through reed-filled waters past river-side villages, camel markets, and ancient Egyptian temples. While some prefer luxury cruises, we opted for the more down-to-earth felucca version of this epic trip. If you are really lucky like us, you might even get a borderline alcoholic captain who spends most of his time sleeping one off below deck. Then, you’ll get to captain the boat while he is unconscious!!!

Tracking Mountain Gorillas – DRC

Our Take: Every true adventurer wants to play Dian Fossey for a day. Just nine years after she died, we visited the Virungas in the Democratic Republic of Congo (then called Zaire), where she first encountered mountain gorillas before moving to Rwanda. Seeing these magnificent animals in the wild is the holy grail for wildlife fans. Nothing quite captures the feeling of a massive silverback strolling by just inches from you! (That’s the good kind of fear!)

Doing the Kailash Kora – Tibet

Our Take: Join a stream of Tibetan nomads as they complete their pilgrimage around Kailash, the holiest mountain in the Tibetan world. The otherworldly scenery in this remote destination is beyond gorgeous and the mountain’s pyramidal peak will leave you breathless (in more ways than one). However, we recommend that you NOT do the kora during a snowstorm as we did!!!

Crossing the Sahara – Sudan

Our Take: Crossing the Sahara is perhaps the most classically epic adventure out there. (We stupidly chose to do it in a bus with a dead battery adding greatly to the challenge.) Politics will dictate whether you cross from Algeria to Mali, Libya to Niger/Chad, or – as we did – from Egypt to Sudan. Regardless of your route, vast stretches of desolation, technical challenges, and a sense of unbridled discovery will change you forever.

Hanging Way Out on Angel’s Landing – USA

Our Take: Stepping down a bit on the difficulty meter, we offer up what we consider to be one of the world’s greatest, relatively easy day hikes. Located in Zion National Park in the U.S. state of Utah, Angel’s Landing dishes up a huge amount of reward for very little risk. Yes, you might plunge off a sheer cliff or tumble into a slickrock crevice, but you really can’t beat that 360-degree red-rock view.

Encountering the Akha – Laos

Our Take: The world’s most fascinating native cultures are vanishing by the day. When I first encountered the Akha in 1990, their extraordinary, traditional villages were widespread and well-preserved in many parts of Southeast Asia. Now, due to the pressures of rapid development, few truly traditional villages survive. The forest village of the Akha woman in this picture was forcibly resettled just a year after we met her in 2010.

Scaling the World’s Most Beautiful Dunes – Namibia

Our Take: We think it is safe to say the world’s most spectacular dunes are in Namibia. It’s not just their gorgeous apricot hue that makes them special, nor is it that massive scale that win them the title. It’s the sight of a group of gemsboks or a lone ostrich wandering through the tinted sand that wins the prize. And if you are lucky, you might even stumble across a seasonal pond filled with flamingos!

Drift Diving in Sipadan – Malaysia

Our Take: Sipadan is on everyone’s list of the world’s greatest scuba diving destinations. Located in the Celebes Sea off the coast of northern Borneo, the unique oceanic islet has walls which plunge 2,000ft (600m) straight down. You can literally step off the white-sand beach into the deep ocean. Obviously, this unique deep-sea formation is swarming with schools of barracuda, sharks, turtles and more.

Doing a Via Ferrata in the Alps – Slovenia

Our Take: The Alps are obviously spectacular no matter where you visit them. While most people immediately think of Switzerland or Austria to take in Europe’s most famous range, we particularly love the Slovenian Alps because the country has preserved the majority of its highest peaks as a national park (yay, Slovenia!) The best way to visit them is on one of their thrilling via ferrata routes. Don’t slip!

Wandering through Elephant Baobabs – Madagascar

Our Take: Every inch of Madagascar qualifies as a world-class adventure, including most of its “roads”. There are dozens of activities we could add to this list, such as repelling into the tsingy stone forests, tracking aye-ayes at midnight, and hunting for fragments of elephant bird eggshell in the coastal dunes. But somehow, rolling through the towering elephant baobabs on the back of a zebu-drawn cart will always be our defining Madagascar adventure.

Kayaking Palawan – Philippines

Our Take: The glassy, emerald waters of Palawan are the ultimate kayaking playground. Whether you are floating through swarms of jellyfish off Coron island or drifting from one white-sand beach to another off El Nido, water-world Palawan will thrill even the most jaded ocean explorer. However, we would recommend hitting these waters in the shoulder season to cut down on the crowds. We did… and it was awesome!

Sleeping on a Sheer Cliff – Peru

Our Take: So it’s super easy, you strap on a harness, scale a 1,000-foot cliff, and shimmy along a sheer stone wall to your transparent bubble hotel room. Next, you sip wine and eat a gourmet meal under a perfect, starry Peruvian sky. The following morning, you dangle your legs and wiggle your toes over Peru’s Sacred Valley as you eat breakfast. Finally, you zipline down the cliffs. No prob! (Yes, staying in the Skylodge near Ollantaytambo, Peru is one of our favorite adventures ever. But we are burying it near the bottom of our list to hide it from casual adventures who refuse to read an entire post.)

Exploring the Thar Desert By Camel – India

Our Take: We’ve ridden camels in the Sahara, camels in the Middle East, camels on the Mongolian grasslands, camels in Central Asia… but NO PLACE has ever come close to our experience in India’s Thar desert. Why? Because here we got the opportunity to get out and really ride like the adventurers of old. No guide leading you around like a ride at Disneyland. Here, you have the opportunity to take the reins and set out on an epic multi-day odyssey across a vast desert wilderness.

Peering into an Active Volcano – Guatemala

Our Take: Last but not least, everybody has to stand on the edge of an active volcano and stare down into a pool of molten lava, right? Our opportunity came back in 2000 when we climbed Pacaya, one of Guatamala’s most famous, or should I say infamous, peaks. Attractions include extreme heat, difficult-to-climb inclines of sliding ash, noxious fumes, and way too much danger. USEFUL TIP: It’s generally suggested that you try to time your visit for a moment when the volcano doesn’t erupt.

Stay tuned for more adventures to come…

The post The World’s Most Amazing Adventures appeared first on ContemporaryNomad.com.

As we sit sipping sweet mint tea gazing out the sculpted slopes of the Imlil Valley, the call to prayer echoes up from the Berber villages below. I adjust the cushy pillows around me and lean out to take in the mountain panorama that surrounds the Kasbah du Toubkal. Behind our hill-top refuge rises the barren, rocky peak of Mt. Toubkal, which at 4,167 m (13,670 ft) ranks as the highest mountain in North Africa. Opposite us, a wondrous waterfall pours into an oasis of walnut, apple, and – most importantly – cherry trees. It’s literally raining cherries in the valley below.

When trekkers talk dream destinations, the conversations often turn to distant lands such as Nepal, northern India, Tibet or Peru. Scanning our archives will prove that these reputations are well deserved. But trekkers-in-the-know keep a few dazzling finds to themselves, off-the-beaten-track treasures where the hiking enthusiast can walk the trails without the crowds. One of the best kept secrets

out there is Morocco.

From the Rif Mountains in the North to the Anti-Atlas in the South, Morocco is overwhelmed with phenomenal walking and trekking options. But trekkers looking for the highest peaks, the deepest valleys and the best preserved village culture should be heading straight for the High Atlas. Hilariously, Imlil, one of the most rewarding trekking destinations in the country, lies a mere 60 km (36 miles) from Marrakesh. In 2016, there are few locations which feel this remote while being so spectacularly accessible. But where to stay?

Hovering above Imlil, the Kasbah du Toubkal has established itself as THE must-visit luxury trekking destination in the country. There are competitors, but the Kasbah du Toubkal has the history and the location, location, location. If it looks familiar, it might be because the kasbah played the role of a Tibetan monastery in the 1997 Martin Scorsese film Kundun. The hotel is so unique that National Geographic has designated it one of the Unique Lodges of the World. That’s an understatement.

After a glorious day hiking through slopes of yellow flowers and isolated Berber villages, Thomas splashes hot water over his body. The kasbah’s traditional hammam fills with steam as we reminisce over our lunch of meatballs and Moroccan salad under a gnarled pine on a distant mountain ridge. “I’m getting too hot,” he suddenly announces. He rinses off the black olive soap and slips into the square dipping pool. Rose petals bob on the wavelets as they spread across the surface. We dry off and return along the stone path leading to the kasbah’s Garden Apartment Suite.

As we enter our two-story home away from home, the orangish light of the setting sun glints off the copper pans in the suite’s private kitchen. We wonder aloud who actually cooks for themselves when the kasbah’s delicious meals – stewed lamb, beef with prunes, couscous – are a clear highlight. We step out onto our huge balcony and take in the views. Up the valley, the picturesque village of Armed (luckily pronounced Ar-med) goes pink as the sun finally dips behind the mountains. Below us, a young boy leads his donkey loaded with wood back to his village. It’s breathtaking.

Even the most jaded world trekkers will find the valleys of the High Atlas surprising. The uniqueness of the Berber culture, the signs written in the exotic Tifinagh alphabet, soaring mountains echoing with the call to prayer, terraces filled with walnut and cherry trees rather than rice… it’s just all so different from other locations. Even those who have trekked in Kashmir and Pakistan in safer times will find something new here. If not, there’s always the next valley.

Into the Azzaden Valley

We wind through a forest of scattered junipers; our mule driver overtakes me while I photograph the scorched mountainscape of reds and browns. Pink, yellow, and purple flowers cling to the shade. I cling to the shade, too. As we move lower, we get our first views of the isolated Azzaden Valley. Our guide Omar takes us to a viewpoint where I gasp at the pristine Berber villages wrapped in green terraces of corn, barley and beans. The lush river valley is backed by a mineral rainbow of eroding clay slopes. We enter our first villages. The narrow mud streets snake through the eroding Berber architecture. We descend along stone steps through tunnel-like underpasses traversing the stacked mud houses. It’s positively medieval in every sense of the word… except it’s 2016.

If you feel tiny Imlil is too cosmopolitan for your tastes, the kasbah has set up a trekking lodge in Aït Aïssa, a small village in the Azzaden Valley. This is a step up in isolation and tradition from Imlil and a must-visit destination for ethno-tourism fans. The lodge is an outpost, it is not to be confused with the more luxurious kasbah. But for trekkers who are used to the bare-bones accommodation in most trekking destinations, the comfort, amenities and excellent food at the trekking lodge will come as a very welcome treat. And it provides the perfect base to explore the nearby villages of Agouinane, Tahaliouine, Tiziane and Tizin Zougouart.

Sitting on colorful local carpets rolled out on the trekking lodge terrace, we stare up in awe at the awesome views of Mt. Toubkal. As dusk settles over the oasis valley, stars appear behind the stony peaks. We are dressed in the jellabiyas which lodge caretaker Mohammed laid out in our room. Once again, a hundred calls to prayer begin to echo throughout the oasis valley. It’s a magical moment in an even more magical place. Mohammed announces our meal of beef tajine with raisins, figs and stewed prunes will be ready shortly. We wonder why it took us so long to discover this secret trekking destination. It’s the first time we’ve trekked in these mountains, but I’m pretty sure it won’t be the last.

More Info on Visiting the Kasbah du Toubkal

Simply staying at the luxurious kasbah is a highlight in itself. For a full immersion in everything Berber, we highly recommend combining a kasbah stay with day treks around Imlil Valley and a multi-day trek to the Azzaden Valley including a stay at the cozy Azzaden Trekking Lodge. If you feel especially daring, you can also organize a climb to the top of Mt. Toubkal. Trips can be booked directly through Discover Ltd, owners of the Kasbah du Toubkal.

The company offers several trip packages combining the traditions of the Atlas Mountains with exotic Marrakesh or Essaouira. We did a package which included a stay at the beautiful Riad Les Yeux Bleus in Marrakesh, as well as the Kasbah du Toubkal and the Azzaden Trekking Lodge in the Atlas Mountains. Transport, food and lots of guided hikes were included as well. Check out their pre-designed trips or contact them for an individualized itinerary.

If responsible tourism is important to you, the Kasbah du Toubkal is the perfect place. Everything is run by locals from the surrounding villages, and each guest pays a five percent room supplement which goes into supporting the infrastructure around the valley. Throughout the years, Discover Ltd. has provided the community with schooling, clean water, an ambulance, trash clearance, and the list goes on. Co-owner Mike McHugo has recently launched a new website dedicated to responsible tourism in the Imlil Valley; check it out at www.imlilvalley.com/.

For more info on the history and vision of the Kasbah du Toubkal, make sure to read through Derek Workman’s Reasonable Plans.

Warning: Two hikers were attacked and killed  outside Imlil in December of 2018. Danish authorities have stated the attacks were “politically motivated and thus a terrorist act.” Exercise caution in the area.

The post Kasbah du Toubkal – Luxury Trekking in the High Atlas appeared first on ContemporaryNomad.com.

Many tourists whoosh through Cusco and the Sacred Valley on a whirlwind itinerary which leaves their heads spinning. While some might be content to shoot through as they tick off items on their bucket list, Peru’s most famous city and its surrounding valleys offer up a virtual smorgasbord of activities for those with longer attention spans.

During our more than two months in the area, we’ve had some time to get acquainted with not-so-little Qosq’o (Quechua name). What we’ve discovered is one of South America’s most unique and appealing towns in one of the continent’s most unique and appealing regions. No wonder UNESCO declared Cusco a World Heritage Site. Here’s just a tiny sample of all the great things to do in Cusco and the Sacred Valley.

Explore Cusco’s Ancient Foundations

It’s easy to miss details if you rush through Cusco. But those who stop and look around will discover that the entire core of this architectural gem is built on the foundations of the capital of the Inca Empire. Everywhere you walk, you discover the impressively huge blocks that characterize Inca masonry. These walls were too bulky and heavy for Spanish invaders to move and they were also extremely earthquake resistant, so the colonists just chose to integrate the walls into their houses. Some houses have even incorporated intact Incan doors.

As you walk around town, keep your eyes peeled for masonry featuring small, easy-to-miss animal carvings. Our favorite areas were Loreto, Romeritos, Hatun Rumiyoc and Inca Roca. And be sure not to miss the amazing foundations at Koricancha.

Hang out with the Lamb Ladies

Throughout Cusco and the greater Sacred Valley, lamb ladies prowl for tourist cameras and a few extra soles. It’s easy to dismiss them as unauthentic or another example of tourist cheese. But in reality, many of these women are from the highlands and posing in traditional clothing is one of the few options that native people have in the city. Most of the lamb ladies are pretty sweet and talking with them is free. Take a moment to notice some of the regional differences in the clothing styles and textile patterns that you see around the Sacred Valley.

Take in the Colonial Grandeur of Cusco

While neo-Incan nationalists might not love it, Cusco is filled with spectacular colonial architecture. Unfortunately, much of that architecture is built on top of previously grand Incan temples and palaces. Having said that, the city is filled with beautiful churches and grand casas, several of which boast impressive courtyards and beautifully carved balconies. It’s unfortunate that many of the religious buildings require the overpriced Boleto del Circuito Religioso which covers the Cusco Cathedral, the Temple of San Blas and the Archbishop’s Palace. There’s no casually strolling in and out of the nicer churches here. But bargain hunters take note, church exteriors are free, and so is the city’s beautiful Plaza de Armas.

Enjoy a Local Festival in Cusco and Around

I don’t think we have ever been to any location outside of India that has more festivals, parades, and religious processions than Cusco. Every single time we walked around the Plaza de Armas, there seemed to be something going on. One day masked dancers pretending to be drunk stumble through the streets, the next huge fireworks displays mounted on rickety bamboo frames explode and catch fire.

We saw military parades, children dressed in different Quechua garb performing native dances, bands of religious devotees dragging one Madonna after another through the streets, political demonstrations… the list goes on and on. HINT: We discovered that the best way to ensure you run across a festival or parade is to walk around town without your camera.

Eat Beer or Coca Ice Cream – or Both

Have you ever even considered the concept of beer ice cream? I certainly hadn’t until we found Amorino’s on Avenida El Sol just across the street from Koricancha. It’s actually quite delicious. So delicious, in fact, that we went back multiple times. (Does that make us alcoholics or ice cream addicts?) While you’re there, try a few of their other flavors as well. How about coca ice cream? Don’t try to take a pint of that back home with you or customs might lock you up. Also look for other distinctly Peruvian flavors including caramelized quinoa, awaymanto, lucuma, algorrobina, chirimoya, lime, and maracuya. (You might have to google some of those names.)

Do a Day Hike in the Sacred Valley

The Sacred Valley is FULL of world class hikes and adventure sport opportunities. Local agencies and online tour operators offer up an amazing selection of trekking, biking and rafting trips lasting anywhere from a few hours to multiple days (see information below in “Plan Your Trip to Cusco and the Sacred Valley”). While tours are a great option to let someone else do the planning, some people prefer the thrill of organizing their own adventures. Unfortunately, there is very little information on do-it-yourself trips or day hikes in and around Cusco. But never fear, we have included a short list of hikes below. (Both links lead to our Ollantaytambo article which has a lot of useful information on what to do in the area.)

• Moray down to Salineras and on to the Urubamba Road
• Chinchero to Calca
• Ollantaytambo to Pumamarka
• The loop from Pisac market up to the ruins and back down
• San Jeronimo to Señor de Huanca

Explore the Tourist Kitsch

We have a certain fascination with tourist kitsch – and Cusco has quite a bit. There is a certain thrill to wandering through tourist market after tourist market of colorful hats, scarves, gloves, wall hangings… whatever you can weave or knit. Actually, I found the piles of Quechua-influenced tourist paraphernalia kind of spectacular. There’s also a nice selection of quirky religious art. In addition, there are some great street vendors up in San Blas. Some of them sold jewelry made of intricately braided fishing line!!! And don’t worry, if the kitsch doesn’t interest you, there are more upscale stores selling luxury alpaca goods and high-end art.

Sample Real Peruvian Food at Olas Bravas

Frankly, Cusco is not the best place to eat in Peru. The constant flow of tourists means that lazy eateries in the tourist center can serve second-rate food and still survive. Bad Italian, chicken with fries, and a few watered down Peruvian specialties sums up most of what you are likely to encounter in the tourist zone.

There are a few nicer restaurants where you should encounter better options. However, these are often massively overpriced compared to what you can find in other parts of Peru. And even the food here can be less than desirable.

To find good food, head out of the center and ask locals for recommendations. We loved Olas Bravas for great ceviche, arroz con mariscos and tons of other great local options. Budgeteers and culinary adventurers will also want to check out the San Pedro market for tons of regional specialties. Frog juice anyone? It’s freshly squeezed.

Visit a Local Market

Visiting a local market is a great way to see Quechua people. They come down from mountain villages to buy and sell vegetables and textiles. Most tourists head straight for Pisac because the large market there can easily be combined with Pisac’s impressive ruins.

If you do go to the Pisac market, cut through the tourist stalls past the lamb ladies (who are very photogenic) and head straight to the fruit and vegetable section. That’s where you will find people in authentic traditional clothing. Don’t forget to photograph the beautiful Indian corn, pumpkins and potatoes.

Although Pisac is worth a visit, we actually preferred the much more traditional market in beautiful Chinchero, which bizarrely is much closer to Cusco. Not only does the market offer up a much more authentic experience, but Chinchero also has a beautiful colonial church, terraced Inca ruins and tremendous views of Mt. Veronica. Enjoy those views now… this beautiful little valley is slated to be the location of Cusco’s new international airport. Ugggh!!!

Explore the Sacred Valley Ruins

Exploring the Inca ruins at Saqsawayman

And last (but by no means least), get out into the Sacred Valley and explore the Incan and pre-Incan ruins. Unless you have zero interest in history or culture, we highly recommend you avoid the see-everything-in-a-day tours offered in Cusco. Take a few days and soak up the culture in the valley; get out and walk a little. And don’t worry if you weren’t able to book a trek along the official Inca Trail. There are plenty of ruins which are accessible without an Inca Trail permit and even other Inca trails to discover on your own.

Incredible semi-circle of Inca ruins at Pisac

Thomas rests inside a small temple at Pisac

Thomas explores the Inca fountains at Tambomachay

Tony passes the giant Wari (pre-Incan) gates at Piquillacta

Stunning Inca terraces at Chinchero

The post Things to Do in Cusco and the Sacred Valley appeared first on ContemporaryNomad.com.

Big cats are the ultimate wildlife thrill. In national parks and wilderness regions around the globe, hikers scan the hills and forests for fleeting glimpses of these elusive creatures. Successfully spotting wild cats requires equal parts effort and luck. As you can see from this post, we have put in the effort and we have had A LOT of luck.

In all, we have spotted 12 different types of wild cats, big and small. The pictures below represent 25 years of travel and trekking. They also represent a tremendous amount of good fortune and even better timing. While most of the big cat posts on the web have been cobbled together by people in a cubicle, this list is based on our experiences and our sightings. So if you are interested in fantastic beasts and where to find them, start reading.

African Lion

Where we saw them: Maasai Mara, Kenya; Tarangire and Ngorogoro, Tanzania; Hwange, Zimbabwe; Etosha, Namibia; Kgalagadi, South Africa

Details: We’ve seen a large number of African lions in several parks in Eastern and Southern Africa, but no place came close to the numbers we saw in Maasai Mara. In fact, our first lion encounter was in Maasai Mara, 17 lions eating a wildebeest!!! However, since we first visited Kenya in 1994, the lion population has declined dramatically.

Sri Lankan Leopard

Where we saw them: Yala National Park, Sri Lanka

Details: We spent 18 months in Africa and never saw a leopard. We spent another 16 months in India and never saw a leopard. We spent four days in Yala, and we saw three leopards. That pretty much says it all! (Watch our Yala video.)

Southern African Cheetah

Where we saw it: Maasai Mara National Park, Kenya

Details: Cheetahs are a matter of luck. A year and a half in Africa and we only saw one cheetah in Maasai Mara. Populations are larger in parks in Namibia, Botswana, and South Africa. Also, visitors to Iran should check out the possibility of seeing the last remaining Asiatic cheetahs. (If you are wondering why we call this a southern African cheetah when we saw it in Kenya, that is the species name.)

South American Cougar (Puma)

Where we saw them: Torres del Paine National Park, Chile; Salkantay Region, Peru

Details: This picture above was the closest encounter we’ve ever had with any big cat. Thomas was literally threatening this puma with hiking poles just before this picture was shot by our friend David Valdés. Although pumas range across North and South America, Torres del Paine is generally regarded as the best place to see them. We actually came here to see one, and we saw one!!! (Watch our Torres del Paine video and read our trekking guide)

Asiatic Lion

Where we saw them: Sasan Gir National Park, India

Details: Asiatic lions once ranged from Eastern Europe across the Middle East to South Asia. Most people don’t realize that a small pocket of Asiatic lions still exists in the Gir forests of the Indian state of Gujarat. And the good news is that the population is increasing due to conservation efforts. Our encounter was up close and personal as a lion pair marched right by our open-top Land Rover. (Watch our Sasan Gir lions video.)

Bengal Tiger

Where we saw them: Bandhavgarh National Park and Corbett National Park, India

Details: We’ve seen six tigers in the wild: five in Bandhavgarh and one in Corbett. Both tiger pics in this post were shot while sitting on the back of a swaying elephant in Bandhavgarh. For serious big cat fans, it doesn’t get much better. However, we do have to give a shout-out to Chitwan National Park in Nepal, where you can track tigers on foot!!! We didn’t see a tiger in Chitwan, but the wet tiger prints we found made it clear that the tiger saw us. (Watch our Bandhavgarh video.)

Jaguar

Where we saw it: Tambopata National Reserve, Peru

Details: The elusive jaguar is hard to spot in the wild. We tried in Mexico, Belize, Guatemala and Nicaragua and failed. Our luck came in Tambopata, Peru where a reasonable number of people manage to spot jaguars. However, luck is a relative term. I shot this highly cropped picture with a telephoto lens sitting in a longboat trying to make its way up rapids. Doesn’t seem so blurry now, does it? (Watch our Tambopata video.)

Ocelot

Where we saw it: Tambopata National Reserve, Peru

Details: Of all the cats on this list, this is the one I am proudest of. We were with one of the best wildlife guides we’ve ever had, and he missed this ocelot. I (Tony) spotted this all on my own. To add to that pride, I managed to shoot a relatively focused picture of it though the tangled Amazon jungle. Hey, other people brag about their big houses and fancy cars; I brag about my ocelot.

Geoffroy’s Cat

Where we saw it: Iberá Wetlands, Argentina

Details: This beautiful Geoffroy’s cat just casually strolled out of the jungle in the Iberá Wetlands, looked right at us, and then proceeded to urinate on tree after tree marking his territory. It’s as if we didn’t scare him at all. So the smallest cat on our list also turned out to be the most fearless.

Saw them, but missed the shot.

All the pictures above show the cats we actually spotted. All the cats listed below got away before we could get a picture (so these are open source images).

Clouded Leopard

Where we saw it: Mulu National Park, Malaysia (Borneo)

Details: Seeing a clouded leopard in Mulu made me a bit sad because I suddenly realized I had used up all my potential lottery luck on one big cat. In other words, don’t hold your breath when you visit Mulu for this one. My professional guide had been working in Mulu for years, and he had never seen a clouded leopard before. The good news is that clouded leopards range from India to the Indonesian island of Java, so there are plenty of interesting national parks where you can try to see one.

Jaguarundi

Where we saw it: Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, Mexico

Details: We saw the bizarrely elongated jaguarundi shooting across the road deep within the jungles of Calakmul. Ironically, we were slowly driving along the road looking for jaguars. As the song says, you can’t always get what you want, but if you try sometimes, you get what you need… to make your cat list longer.

Bobcat

Where we saw it: Chaco Culture National Park, USA (New Mexico)

Details: Although bobcats are one of the most common cats in the United States and they range from coast to coast, we have only ever seen one. It was silently slipping out of the Pueblo Bonito ruins in Chaco Canyon. Unfortunately, he refused to pose in front of the ruins for me to take what would have been one hell of a picture.

The one that got away…

Snow Leopard

Where we DIDN’T see it: Annapurna Region, Nepal; Hemis National Park, India (Ladakh)

Details: No, we DID NOT see a snow leopard. But it was not for lack of trying. For many big cat fans, the elusive snow leopard proves one of the hardest cats in the world to see. We DID however come across fresh snow leopard prints while crossing the Thorung La Pass in Nepal’s Annapurna region. We also spent weeks trekking in and around Hemis National Park in Ladakh, India, which is generally considered one of the best places in the world to see snow leopards. No luck. In all, we spent 11 months in the Himalayas, but our precious snow leopard was nowhere to be seen. Well, that gives us a big cat goal for the future, right?

The post Big Cats and Where We Actually Saw Them appeared first on ContemporaryNomad.com.

The Nazca Lines have been associated with everything from aliens to Atlantis; they are certainly one of the world’s most mysterious creations. All that fame, intrigue and media attention means that the name Nazca has now become synonymous with the lines. But many people don’t realize that Nazca refers to a town, a region, and even an ancient culture. That culture left behind much more than lines.

Bucketlisters and speedy travelers shooting through Peru often spend half a day in Nazca, do a quick flight over the Nazca Lines, and hightail it on to Arequipa, Cusco or Lima. GIGANTIC MISTAKE. Nazca is a fascinating region which deserves far more attention. Thomas and I spent six days here, and this is just a bit of what we discovered

.

Chauchilla Cemetery

The Chauchilla Cemetery, a 1,000-year-old burial ground located about 30 km south of Nazca, is NOT to be missed. Visitors are greeted with open-air tombs of shockingly well preserved mummies, eerie and extraordinary messengers from late-era Nazca culture. Clothing and hairstyles reveal intriguing cultural details which bring the ancient civilization to life. Don’t miss the mummified shamans sporting long dreaded manes of hair. And keep your eyes peeled for mummified babies with bound heads. Examine the incredibly preserved textiles closely to discover ancient patterns and original natural colors. Some mummies miraculously still have dry, leathery skin on their faces. As you walk around the site, notice the human bones, ceramics and textiles scattered by site looters emerging from the dirt. Bizarre, sad, incredible.

Cantalloc and Ocongalla Aqueducts

The Nazca culture produced an elaborate system of underground aqueducts called puquios throughout the Nazca Valley. Most of the puquios are still functioning today and are even used to irrigate modern fields. Cantalloc and Ocongalla are two sections of the puquios that are of special interest to visitors. Cantalloc, within walking distance of Nazca, is an intriguing collection of spiral access points to the aqueducts, which are quite beautiful and photogenic. Ocongalla, which is easily combined with a trip to Cahuachi, is a more abstract collection of stone terraces surrounding an open stretch of aqueduct. Some believe the site was used for ritual purposes.

Nazca Lines Flight

Yes, Nazca is much more than lines, but they remain the superstars. Leading theories suggest that the Nazca Lines served a religious or ritual purpose and alignments between the lines, key stars, and significant ritual points throughout the valley have been observed. Others believe, the lines, figures and the unexplained “landing strips” are proof of ancient ties to UFOs. View our gallery of our Nazca Lines flight and judge for yourself.

Cahuachi Ruins

In any other country, Cahuachi would be a household name. In Peru, a nation overwhelmed with spectacular ruins, it barely registers as a blip on the tourist radar. When we visited the isolated site, we virtually had the ruined buildings and pyramids to ourselves. While visiting, notice the fascinating use of differently shaped adobe bricks. A good guide will also point out the food storage nooks and the extraordinary underground cisterns, which have fired walls like huge underearth pots. Don’t miss the horizen of unexcavated pyramids behind the present site. Insane!!!

Palpa Lines

While the Nazca Lines are well known around the world, very few people have heard of the Palpa Lines. Located 50 km north of Nazca, many of the Palpa Lines and hill figures are actually quite stylistically different from those on the Nazca plain. The hill figures almost look like stick cartoon characters experiencing a major bad hair day. And the mandala-like Sun Star should send the hearts of conspiracy theorists everywhere racing. Lot’s of mysteries here. Will some expert please gift the world with a well documented Wikipedia article on the Palpa Lines? For now, you can read UNESCO’s short synthesis of the Palpa Lines, the Nazca Lines, and the geoglyphs in the coastal plains.

Cerro Blanco

As if Nazca didn’t already have enough in terms of cultural attractions, it also boasts the Cerro Blanco, “the world’s largest sand dune.” If you follow us, you know I’m usually quite skeptical about superlatives; however, in this case, I might make an exception. At a whopping 2,078 m (6,817 ft), we can’t think of anything that comes close. (Sorry Namibia, Algeria, Morocco and China, but technicalities aside, this monster is really impressive.) The dune is easily visible from much of the Nazca Valley and you can even climb it if you’re a masochist. Also, if you do a Nazca Lines flight, keep your camera ready during take off and landing for great shots of the Cerro Blanco.

Buena Fe Geoglyphs

Just outside Nazca beyond the community of Buena Fe, El Telar and Las Agujas are two abstract geoglyphs which can be viewed from a hillside overlook. In many ways, the geoglyphs of Buena Fe are more rewarding than the more commonly visited viewing tower and hill lookout along the highway. We loved the isolation and serenity of this sight, which we had completely to ourselves. You can walk to Buena Fe from Nazca, so this is a good option for those who feel they can’t afford a Nazca Lines flight. (But do the flight people!!!)

Paredones Ruins

You can also walk to the Paredones ruins located just outside Nazca. This is a MUCH smaller site than Cahuachi and you can easily see everything in ten minutes. That said, there were some strangely appealing and photogenic moments including these surreal adobe walls and door. There’s a certain Georgia O’Keeffe appeal to the site. It can also be combined quite easily with the Buena Fe geoglyphs and even the Cantalloc aqueducts.

Looted Graves of Nazca Desert

The deserts around Nazca are filled with burial sites, many of which have unfortunately been looted. Look for remnants of these looted sites as you visit other attractions. On our way to Cahuachi, we stopped in the middle of nowhere and simply took in the vastness of Peru’s historical legacy. As far as we could see, fields of human bones, pottery, and textiles sat unguarded. Entire cloaks, human legs, spines, fluffy llama wool, heads… was that an entire mummy? The historical richness is beyond impressive; the degree to which the Peruvian government is neglecting its history is tragic. Locals recognize and openly talk about this neglect. Ask as many questions as you want.

Greenpeace Damage to the Famous Nazca Hummingbird

In December 2014, news broke that the famous Nazca hummingbird, the lead picture in our Nazca Lines post, was damaged by Greenpeace activists during an environmental publicity stunt. We are including a 6-minute PBS report detailing the nature of the publicity stunt and the damage caused by the activists. The report includes drone footage of the damage to the site.

The post Extraordinary Nazca – Much More Than Lines appeared first on ContemporaryNomad.com.

Twenty-first century Madrid positively surprised us. Before Tony and I met, we visited Madrid independently in the late ’80s and early ’90s, and we both left the city NOT loving it. While Tony got robbed in the Chamartín train station (and had to deal with the aftermath including a screaming match with an embassy official who refused to help a stranded 19-year old), I passed through the same railway station and found the city to look dull and grey through my dusty train window. Coming back 25 years later, however, completely restored our faith in what must be one of Spain’s most livable cities.

During our three-week stay in Madrid, we saw the city in a very different light. The rough edges seemed to have softened and the city parks and art museums were everything but dull and grey. To give you an idea how to find some color, excitement and fun, and make the most of your time, we have compiled a list of things to do in Madrid which reflects some of our most enjoyable activities in the capital.

Eat Tapas, Tapas, Tapas

One of the greatest joys of Spain is eating tapas with friends. It seems like every time you sit down for beer or wine, a waiter drops a complimentary plate of savory dishes on your table. The more you drink, the more they feed you. Who doesn’t love that? Talk to some Madrileños and they tell you exactly where to get the best (and the most) tapas for your money. There are a million places, but we quite enjoyed La Chalana’s cider and tapas in Chamartín with our friends Ana, Marta and Laura. The best thing, you can fill your own glass from a cider dispenser right on the table.

Get Your Fill of Art Museums

Madrid is home to one of the world’s greatest museums of art, the Prado National Museum. We highly recommend taking a day (or at least a few hours) to explore it. The museum’s amazing collections of mostly European art include masterpieces by Goya, El Greco, Rubens, Bosch and Titian. Two other worthwhile museums for art aficionados are the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum and the Reina Sofia National Museum with Picasso’s famous Guernica. (Tony has been insisting we go to Madrid to see Guernica for years!) All three museums – known as the Golden Triangle of Art – offer limited free entry at certain times of the day or week (check their websites). Entry is also included in the Madrid Card (more info at the end).

Go for a Stroll in El Retiro Park

The city that I had perceived of as being dull and grey has a surprising number of green spaces. One of them is Madrid’s popular El Retiro. The public park is home to statues, fountains, playgrounds, galleries and plenty of greenery as well as the Retiro Pond. If you want to go for a little spin in a row boat, that’s the place to go. You’ll also find outdoor exercise equipment as well as running and biking paths to work off those extra tapas pounds (we certainly should have been there every day). Also, don’t miss the gorgeous Crystal Palace, a 19th-century glass and metal structure that houses rotating art collections. El Retiro is a great place to chill and people-watch after a full day at the museums. Conveniently, the Prado Museum is very close by, so plan ahead and visit both.

Shop at Mercado San Miguel

Eating in Spain is a major highlight and should be at the top of your list of things to do in Madrid. One of the best places to sample gourmet tapas, champagne and fancy cupcakes is at San Miguel Market, one of Madrid’s oldest and most beautiful wrought-iron-and-glass market halls. With its fresh oysters, Galician preserves, authentic paella (translated: delicious), crisp cocktails, and scrumptious Iberian ham, it’s the ideal marketplace for architecture junkies and foodies alike. I literally had to drag Tony out, or he would have spent our weekly budget. Yes, locals will probably tell you it’s touristy and overpriced, but you should go there at least once to sample their highly addictive stuffed olives for a euro a piece.

Wander through Madrid’s Plaza Mayor

After having explored San Miguel Market, wander over to nearby Plaza Mayor. The giant rectangular square is surrounded by colonnaded late 18th-century apartment buildings with quaint little shops and cafes under each portico. What is now one of Madrid’s major tourist attractions, was once a place for public executions. Think about that when you sit there sipping your vino tinto. By the way, Plaza Mayor is also the place to get your fake Michael Kors handbag you’ve always wanted.

Discover the eclectic Museo Cerralbo

If you like over-the-top knick-knacks and outrageous frou-frou, this might be just the museum for you. The small Museo Cerralbo houses the private collection of the Marquis of Cerralbo, an archaeologist and collector who turned his mansion over to the public before his death in 1922. Every inch in this mini-palace is bedecked in fantastic art! You can spend hours looking at Murano glass chandeliers, trompe l’oeil frescoes, Meissen porcelain figurines, 16th-century suits of armor, Roman coins, Qing Dynasty urns, Belgian tapestries, gilded French clocks, and everything that sparkles under the sun. We especially liked the colorful Arab Room with – surprise, surprise – two Edo-era Samurai suits of armor from Japan. Ummm, OK. Cultural misnomers aside, this was actually one of the kookiest and most enjoyable museums we have seen in some time. We highly recommend a visit!

Visit the Egyptian Temple of Debod

This may come as a surprise, but Madrid is home to an authentic Egyptian temple, the Temple of Debod! It is one of four Egyptian temples currently residing outside of Egypt (the others are in the U.S., Italy and the Netherlands). All four were given as a thank you for helping to relocate the Abu Simbel Temple which was threatened by rising waters after the construction of the Aswan High Dam. So if you have never stood in an Egyptian temple (or want to return to one), don’t miss this opportunity. The Temple of Debod is located in Parque del Oeste (near the Royal Palace) and is especially photogenic at sunset. The entry is free.

Drink Vermouth at El Rastro Market

I didn’t know this was one of the things to do in Madrid, but sipping Vermouth at the El Rastro Sunday market is apparently what locals do. The happening place for a drink and tapas is Cafe Pavón near the El Rastro market. The local, down-to-earth joint is the ideal spot to watch all kinds of colorful crazies. Make sure to browse the famous open-air flea market first before you sit down for Vermouth; once you get the taste for it, you may never want to leave.

Behold the Royal Palace

A visit to Madrid should always include a trip to the royal family’s official residence – no matter how little time you have. King Felipe VI and his family don’t actually live there, but they use the Royal Palace for official state functions. A few hours are probably enough for the average visitor to get a feeling for the Spanish aristocracy, architecture, history, art and opulence. Certain days and hours are free so check out the palace’s website. The visit is also free with the Madrid Card.

Look out for Street Art

If you are a fan of street art (which we are), Madrid will keep you busy. Look out for colorful graffiti in the Lavapiés and Malasaña neighborhoods, the gay-friendly Chueca, and Madrid’s city center. Don’t miss La Tabacalera de Lavapies, a former tobacco factory on Calle de Embajadores; the historic building is covered in graffiti art. Also, check out the giant frog sculpture in front of the Casino Gran Madrid Colón. You may have to stand in line, though, if you want your photo taken standing under its belly.

Take a Cable Car Ride on the Teleférico

A great place to see Madrid from a bird’s eye view is Casa de Campo, the largest park in the city. The best and most enjoyable way to cross the former royal hunting grounds is by taking the Teleférico cable car from the Paseo del Pintor Rosales street to the city overlook. From there, you can access the park’s many trails or chill in the cafe-restaurant. It’s a great little outing which combines nature and city views from forty meters above the ground. El Teleférico is included in the Madrid Card.

Amuse Yourself at the Wax Museum

We have saved the best WORST museum for last. The Madrid Wax Museum is so sad and ridiculously expensive that it’s almost worth visiting. Entry is included in the Madrid Card, so only go if you have paid for the card anyway. WARNING: Some of the wax figures may give you nightmares. Think bad taxidermy job, you just can’t look away. Note the location of German Chancellor Angela Merkel in the photo. She’s definitely in good company (is this a commentary on Spanish/German relations?) Also don’t miss the museum’s little theme ride called Train of Terror. It doesn’t get any cheesier than that. Their attempt at a haunted house will leave you laughing for days. (Or raging if you paid full price.) While the Wax Museum is definitely not Madame Tussauds, its hilariously kitschy charm catapulted it right onto our list of things to do in Madrid.

The post 13 Fun Ideas of Things to Do in Madrid appeared first on ContemporaryNomad.com.

Sitting in our stilt house recovering from our spectacular wreck dives, the second major reason to visit the Philippine Island of Busuanga is clearly visible on the horizon. Dramatic and mysterious, Lonely Planet describes mystical Coron Island best when it says, “It wouldn’t be out of place in a King Kong film.”

Ominous walls of jungle-covered black karst erupt from the surrounding turquoise seas. Jagged and spectacular, Coron Island is the ultimate karst showpiece. As mountainous as Yangshuo, as labyrinthine as the Stone Forest, mid-ocean like Halong or Pang Nga, and as razor-edged as the spiky tsingy of Madagascar, Coron trumps them all. The place is pure magic.

Controlled by the traditional Tagbanua tribe, most of the island is off-limits to outsiders. Luckily, the Tagbanua allow limited access to some of the highlights along the northwestern coast of the island including breath-taking Kayangan and Barracuda Lakes as well as Twin Lagoons.

All four bodies of water are steep-walled karst sinkholes filled with stunning glass-clear water, each one featuring unique creatures ranging from dwarf catfish to mini-pipefish to stingless jellyfish. Darwin would have been right at home here. Beyond that, the karst walls of the coast hide dozens of inlets filled with coral, fish, and many species of jellyfish which DO sting. It’s a cautious explorer’s paradise!

As if all that weren’t enough, massive Lake Cabugao, hidden deep within the karst peaks of the island’s interior, holds Coron’s most mysterious creature. Cabugao is said to be the lair of the giant octopus, a creature worshiped by the Tagbanua. Unfortunately, the holy lake is strictly off-limits to outsiders. (Come on people, are you trying to drive us crazy?)

While we might not have been able to visit Lake Cabugao, we both made the most of the portions of the island open to us. Most tourists content themselves with lightening-paced motorized bangka tours which take in Coron Bay, a few of the lakes, a couple of beaches and some snorkeling. The Coron tours were enjoyable, but left us wanting more, so we decided to take it a step further and spend a couple of days exploring the jagged coastline by sea kayak.

Exploring Coron Island by Sea Kayak

When we visited in 2010, sea kayaks could only be rented in Coron Town on Busuanga Island. At the time, Sea Dive Resort was renting doubles for 450 Pesos ($10) per day, but supply was very limited. The paddle from Coron Town to Coron Island should not be undertaken lightly. Strong currents can make paddling a challenge and rain storms can sweep through adding to the difficulty.

It takes around 60-90 minutes for reasonably fit paddlers to reach Coron Island. But paddlers are rewarded with mind-blowing karst formations, hidden lakes, crystalline coves, mangrove filled inlets, and tiny strips of white sand all backed by jungle-clad walls filled with crab-eating macaques and exotic birds. Yeah, it really is that beautiful.

We spent two days floating in an out of various inlets and we had the place entirely to ourselves. When the daily bangka tours started, we just pulled back into a less accessible area and waited for them to pass. The surreal turquoise waters made for perfect swimming, although you really do need a mask and snorkel because pockets of dangerous jellyfish can provide for nasty (and painful) surprises. You’ll notice that in many of the pictures, we are wearing shirts while swimming to help protect from stings.

In 2010, the coral was still in much better condition than at locations further south, such as El Nido on Palawan. We spotted some of the largest plate corals we’ve ever seen. The Crown-of-Thorns plague wasn’t too bad and sea life was abundant. However, after Super Typhoon Haiyan hit in 2013 and the ongoing effects of climate change, the quality of the coral is likely to have suffered since then. (And don’t even get me started on the tourists who like to hold on to the coral or snap off a piece for a souvenir.)

The most spectacular coves lie to the west of Barracuda Lake continuing beyond Twin Lagoons. Remember that it’s a long paddle back at the end of the day after exploring the island, so don’t burn yourself out too early. It’s a marathon, not a sprint. But for those who take the time to get off the beaten track, you will discover one of the most beautiful places in the world.

Watch our video “Kayaking in Palawan”

This footage was shot while exploring Coron Island and El Nido.

The post Exploring Coron Island by Kayak appeared first on ContemporaryNomad.com.

Parque-Museo La Venta in Villahermosa is one of the most unique, well conceived museums we’ve ever encountered. Created in 1958, the park-museum was designed to house relocated Olmec treasures that were threatened by petro-chemical development near the original La Venta archaeological site in northern Tabasco. Those priceless treasures include three colossal Olmec stone heads as well as many other very impressive examples of Olmec sculpture and carving.

Olmec art is very old (1,000 – 500 BC) and unique; it immediately stands out from other pre-Columbian art because of its simplicity and modern aesthetic. (Much of the smaller Olmec sculpture could almost be mistaken for traditional Japanese art.) There are also some intriguing cylindrical basalt structures at La Venta and mysterious monoliths that leave visitors with many questions.

But the highlight of any visit to the park is the rare opportunity to view three of the seventeen known colossal Olmec heads. While there are endless theories about these unique creations, not much is actually known about why they were created and who or what they represent. The head known as Monument 1 at La Venta (lead pic) is almost 8 feet high (2.4 m) and weighs more than 24 tons. How was such an enormous stone carving made and positioned more than 2,500 years ago? UFO and Atlantis conspiracists will especially love La Venta.

Such unique art requires an equally unique environment. Rather than being just another series of indoor rooms, Parque-Museo La Venta is a jungle reserve. Visitors enter through a small zoo which includes local monkeys, birds, crocodiles, jaguars and more. From the wildlife area, a 1.2 km trail slowly winds through buttressed trees and a tangle of vines to “discover” each piece of art displayed in nature.

The creators of the museum really understood that presenting an archaeological treasure in an open air environment greatly enhances that Indiana Jones sense of discovery. An Olmec colossal head just feels way cooler when it’s backed by jungle with free-roaming coatis scampering across your path and tropical birds flying overhead.

That dizzy, sick feeling you get when you inch through a normal museum completely vanishes because you walk, you breathe, you explore and you discover. There’s quite a bit of space between pieces, so you have time to process the art and the wildlife. It’s incredible to think that this museum was built in 1958 because it feels totally cutting edge. We highly recommend it.

Tips on Visiting Parque-Museo La Venta

Parque-Museo La Venta is located in Villahermosa in the Mexican state of Tabasco. As of June 2020, tickets are around $2 for non-Mexican visitors.

We have seen some reviews on TripAdvisor.com which suggest a side trip to La Venta in Villahermosa is not worth a detour. If you have no interest in art, Meso-American culture, ancient mysteries, or unique museums, that might be true. However, we personally loved La Venta and the colossal Olmec stone heads . Visitors must understand this is a museum, not a large archaeological site like Chichen Itza or Palenque.

Moreover, the park-museum is very easy to visit if you are flying in to Villahermosa, which has the closest airport to Palenque (2-hour drive).

The post Colossal Olmec Stone Heads of La Venta appeared first on ContemporaryNomad.com.

No, we didn’t come to Japan during the cherry blossom season. But it turns out that Japan has a whole lot of surprises up its floral kimono sleeves. We just randomly stumbled upon this little known (outside Japan) event, the blooming of the red spider lilies of Kinchakuda (巾着田).

Located a mere hour outside Tokyo in Saitama Prefecture, Kinchakuda Park lies on a forested bend along the shores of the Koma River. For about 8-10 days each year, a spectacular red carpet of lilies forms beneath the trees creating a fairy tale scene unlike anything we have ever encountered before.

Clearly, as the peak bloom occurs for only a few days and the park is located just outside one of the planet’s largest cities – you will not be alone during your visit. But the park is well organized with defined paths to protect the flowers and allow visitors to freely explore and photograph to their heart’s content.

Beyond being beautiful, red spider lilies have a symbolic meaning. The flowers mysteriously bloom right around the autumnal equinox and are associated with the coming darkness of winter. Over time, this fact has led Japanese to associate the flowers with the transition between light and dark, life and death. Japanese often plant the beautiful, bright-red flowers around cemeteries to placate spirits and create a colorful boundary between the world of the living and the netherworld beyond. Hey, we should use these flowers as Halloween decorations.

As you can see from the pictures below, the flowers and the forest scenes are quite stunning. Before you accuse me of going crazy with Photoshop, I should explain the wild colors and lighting. As the flowers bloom, they start with a very pronounced white outline along the petals, which makes some of the flowers appear pink from a distance. The white outline gives the flowers a very odd, surreal quality as well, which was greatly enhanced by a sky of Swiss-cheese clouds and sunbeams.

As we moved through the forest, some of the flowers had been blooming longer, which meant they were darker red, and the white outlines were less pronounced. (You can see the difference in the picture with me ducking down in the dense field of flowers.)

If fairy tale flowers aren’t enough, I should also point out that just outside the forest, locals hold a Spider Lily Festival full of amazing regional foods and desserts. Seriously, what is better than an awesome natural phenomenon AND Japanese street food? Ummm, nothing. See tips on visiting at the end of this post.

Tips on Kinchakuda

The red spider lilies bloom in late September and usually reach full bloom around the autumnal equinox Sept. 22/23. Shortly before the bloom, the park website will put up a calendar predicting the peak of the bloom. Unfortunately, that page is removed after the bloom, so I can’t link to it.

It is easy and cheap (around $5) to get to Kinchakuda by train. Take the Seibu-Ikebukuro Express Line 急行 towards Hanno and transfer to the Seibu-Chichibu Line 各停 to Koma Station. You shouldn’t have too much difficulty finding your way, just follow the crowds of Japanese retirees decked out in their hiking clothes.

Also, if you like colors as much as we do, feel free to check out our colorful post Kyoto Autumn Leaves.

The post The Red Spider Lilies of Kinchakuda appeared first on ContemporaryNomad.com.