Acne's padded baseball jackets, leather pants and cinched waists with the 1980's large eleastic belts feminized the androgynous but sexy silhouettes. The color palatte had a feeling of a quick view of a table full of lipstick and skin foundation tones. 

 Gucci AW 12, understated sexy, romantic with a touch of androgyny and darkness that referenced the 1940's  costumes in the 1970's Italian film "The Conformist". The slight masculine touch to the make up was a strategic touch to the overall look.  This chiffon blouse and pencil skirt are perfected in this collection, as are the ankle wrap heels. 

  I love Louise Gray's collections for the fact that she is and always will be about color, layers,high art inspired prints, mixed with her Scottish humor; result: happy fashion that is seasonless and easy to wear for most.  Her collaboration with her longtime friend: Nicholas Kirkwood : Pollini print boots!! must haves!!And the mowhawk hats created by Nasir Mazhar, added to creative direction of the brand for A/W12.  When ever I use Louise Gray samples in shoots, I want to see everone try on a sample, as her silhouettes look amazing on most shapes and not strictly for the 14-22 year old demoographic, actually I think like Vivienne Westwood, any age can feel amazing in her silhouettes.  

Here's a live interview with Louise Gray in New York by Emmie Twombly 

    Louise Gray in New York 

Bubble wrap gloves? Love!!

  Love these boots!!

  Mary Queen of Scotts was a subtle theme for the McQ show presented in London, nice to see the McQueen brand honor their roots/original city of creation.  Excellent casting and creative direction!! 

 If this is a hint of what is to come from the strong design team I look forward to the Paris Alexander McQueen RTW show!!

Back stage PH: Morgan O'Donovan

 1970's roller disco collides with physchedelic furs and bear and tiger paws?  Meadham Kirchhoff's "all things girlie" theory take on a Disco party.  The fur coats are standout as well as the fur paw gloves.

   I will always have this brand at the top of my list!! Fearless and whimsical!!

  London fashion week day 1 closing with one of the most anticpated shows: Central St. Martins MA.  

There is always the air of: who is the next Christopher Kane, Richard Nicoll, Gareth Pugh or who is going to win the coveted L'Oreal  professional award, and who survived the scrutiny of design program's director: Louise Wilson ? As it's Louise Wilson's 20th year as program director, we can credit her for the graduates that the fashion press, bloggers,buyers,celebrities ( any Central St.Martins graduates out there working as Bloggers? LOL) worships but may have forgotten where they fine tuned their craft.  Let's just say if you can endure the design course and show at the MA presentation to international press, you might as well say you succeeded in the RTW design Olympic training camp, few of which last or have the talent  to this achieve this.

   On the flip side collections presented are of high art and anyone with a few years of Blogging, buying or editing may not have the experience to review them in a fair light.  I remember Alexander Mc Queen"s and John Galliano's graduate collections..both un wearbale but high art and both have been worshiped and judged recently for their genius.

   This particular graduate show had some interesting experimentation with padding, foam shapes popping out of suit jackets, skirts etc. Kenji Kawasumi's foam suits were stand out, I also liked Yulia Kondranina's String art silhouettes, on a darker note: Sabina Brytesson's hooded dresses: accessorized with sack cloth hoods.  

   Here is the an example of RTW without boundaries, pure creation, which sadly will soon be diluted to become wearable, or Lady Gaga's team will borrow indefinitely for her closet and hopefully give the designer credit for their amazing work and highlight who they are. 

 L'Oreal Professional award receiptients: Luke Brooks and Craig Green.

   His A/W 12 women's wear show was an entertaining balance of directional RTW design and tailoring in an Edward Gorey storybook setting. Models in coffins opening the show, the grey veils both on face and on feet..love!!!  The exaggerated tailoring and padded silhouettes were balanced buy the chic but adorable wool fox cut out scarves.  One of NY Fashion week's strongest collections , outside of the presentation. This collection would sit nicely in the same dept as Comme Des Garcons, Boudicca, etc at the Dept stores and international boutiques. My theory: fashion doesn't always need to be wearable for the sheepish, but wearble for the fearless fashion savvy woman.